Browned Butter Hummingbird Coffee Cake with Mascarpone Glaze

For those of you who may be thinking this first post of the new year is nothing more than a wicked attempt at tempting you to already break your new year's resolution of eating healthier foods, like adding more fruits and nuts to your diet, you would be wrong. Because this Browned Butter Hummingbird Coffee Cake with Mascarpone Glaze is made with bananas, pineapple, and pecans. In other words, it's a cake made with fruit and nuts. My definition of a win-win, glass half full recipe! Have I told you lately that seeing possibility where others see improbability (aka rationalizing) is one of my strengths? Or my belief that life shouldn't be about deprivation but rather moderation? As much as I can be a little redundant with my musings here on the blog, sometimes a little redundancy is a good thing. Really it is.

There were many reasons why I wanted to make this Browned Butter Hummingbird Coffee Cake with Mascarpone Glaze. Was it because I was in need of a great, new coffee cake recipe, because anything with the words hummingbird cake in the title immediately gets my attention, or because I needed a bribe to get the person who shall remain nameless to take up all of the cumbersome, heavy holiday boxes up to the attic? The answer? All of the above.

While one of my last year's intentions was to reduce the number of cookbooks and cooking magazines I buy, I couldn't resist buying the January/February 2017 issue of 'bake from Scratch'. Even the long checkout line at the bookstore couldn't deter me from buying it. Filled with a number of recipes just begging me to make them, the Browned Butter Hummingbird Coffee Cake seemed to tug a little harder at my heartstrings. Add the words browned butter to a recipe and well, suddenly I find myself on a nothing will get in my way mission.

As with most recipes I come across, I either leave them alone or feel compelled to tinker with them just a teeny tiny bit. Whenever I make any changes it sort of feels I have given myself permission to color outside of the lines, to break some rules, to take a leap of faith. In other words, it's what being a little radical looks like in my world. To be perfectly honest, the recipe for the Browned Butter Hummingbird Coffee Cake was just about perfect. Toasting the pecans before adding them to the streusel was a minor nuance. Changing out the sour cream based glaze for the mascarpone glaze would be one of those changes falling into the category of personal preferences. And making this coffee cake in a springform pan instead of cake pan (9 inch instead of 8 inch) was nothing more than a convenience.

What can be better than a coffee cake topped with a butter, brown sugar, cinnamon, sugar, pecan streusel? One having some of it inside of it! If you are looking to amplify the flavor of the streusel, toast the pecans in a preheated 350 degree (F) oven for 8 to 9 minutes. I promise, you won't be sorry for this tiny extra step.

The browned butter is the not-so secret transformational ingredient taking this Hummingbird Coffee Cake to a whole new level of nutty deliciousness and a deeper complexity. When butter has melted to the point where the water has been cooked out, the remaining milk solids begin to brown and take on a nutty flavor. Make sure to scrape out all of the little brown bits into your batter as they hold incredible flavor.

After spreading half of the coffee cake batter in the pan, top with both the cinnamon sugar mixture and one-third of the streusel mixture. Top with the rest of the batter, smooth out with an offset spatula and finish off with the remaining streusel before putting the coffee cake in a preheated 350 degree (F) oven.

Instead of using an 8 inch cake pan, this Browned Butter Hummingbird Coffee Cake was made in a 9 inch springform pan (lined with parchment paper). In spite of changing out the size of the cake pan, there was no significant change to the baking time (45-50 minutes).

Hummingbird Cakes are traditionally topped with a cream cheese frosting. This coffee cake version is topped with a mascarpone glaze.

Allow the coffee cake to rest at least 15 minutes before pouring on the glaze.

Imagine starting your day with a warm coffee cake. But whether you serve it warm or at room temperature, this may be the best coffee cake on the planet.

Full of intense flavor, this Browned Butter Hummingbird Coffee Cake is incredibly moist. The Mascarpone Glaze adds a hint of sweetness and is a perfect finishing touch. So if you are committed to adding more fruits and nuts to your diet in the weeks, month and year ahead, I would venture to say this cake would help you keep that promise, resolution, intention. And, if by chance you need to offer a small bribe, this coffee cake may get you more than you even hoped for. Happy New Year!

Recipe
Browned Butter Hummingbird Coffee Cake with Mascarpone Glaze (slight adaptation to the Browned Butter Hummingbird Coffee Cake recipe printed in the Jan/Feb 2017 Issue of Bake from Scratch)
Serves 8-12, depending on how you slice it

Ingredients
Streusel
1/3 cup (43g) all-purpose flour
1/4 cup (50g) light brown sugar, firmly packed
1/2 teaspoon cinnamon
1/4 teaspoon kosher salt
3 1/2 (50g) Tablespoons unsalted butter, room temperature
1/2 cup pecan halves, toasted and chopped 

Cake
1/2 cup (113g) unsalted butter, room temperature
2 large eggs, room temperature
1/2 cup mashed banana (from 1 large ripe banana or 2 smaller ripe bananas)
1/2 cup crushed pineapple, drained
1 teaspoon vanilla
1 1/2 cups (195g) all-purpose flour
3/4 cup (150g) plus 1 Tablespoon granulated sugar, divided
1/4 cup (50g) light brown sugar, firmly packed
3/4 teaspoon Kosher salt
3/4 teaspoon baking powder
1 teaspoon cinnamon, divided
Optional: Pecan halves for finishing the top of the coffee cake

Glaze
1/2 cup (60g) confectionary sugar, sifted
2 Tablespoons mascarpone cheese, softened
2-3 Tablespoons whole milk

Directions
Streusel 
1. In a medium bowl, whisk together the flour, brown sugar, cinnamon, and salt.
2. Stir in butter, mixing until the mixture is crumbly. Note: Use fingertips until desired consistency is reached.
3. Stir in chopped, toasted pecans. Cover and set aside.

Glaze
1. In a small bowl, whisk together the sifted confectionary sugar, mascarpone cheese and 2 Tablespoons of the whole milk until creamy and pourable. If mixture to thick, add milk 1 teaspoon at a time.

Cake
1. Preheat oven to 350 degrees (F). Line a 9 inch springform or baking pan with parchment paper. Spray with baking spray and lightly flour. Set aside.
2. In a medium, heavy bottomed saucepan, melt butter over medium heat. Cook until butter turns a medium-brown color and has a nutty aroma. Approximately 8-10 minutes. Remove from heat and cool to room temperature.
3. In a medium bowl, whisk together the flour, 3/4 cup granulated sugar, brown sugar, salt, baking powder and 1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon. Set aside.
4. In the bowl of a standing mixer fitted with a paddle attachment, beat eggs, mashed banana, drained pineapple, and vanilla at medium speed until combined. Approximately 1-2 minutes. 
5. Stir in cooled browned butter. Scrape the browned bits into the batter.
6. Gradually add flour mixture to the batter, beating until just combined.
7. In a small bowl, mix tother the remaining 1 Tablespoon granulated sugar and remaining 1/2 teaspoon cinnamon. Set aside.
8. Spread half of the batter into the prepared cake pan.
9. Sprinkle with the cinnamon sugar and 1/3 of the streusel mixture.
10. Top with remaining cake batter. Smoothing top with an offset spatula.
11. Evenly sprinkle the remaining streusel over the cake batter.
12. Bake for 45-50 minutes or until cake tested with a toothpick comes out clean. Remove from oven and let cake rest for 15 minutes.
13. Run a sharp knife around the edges. Open latch on springform pan and/or invert cake onto a plate and invert again, placing cake on a wire rack.
14. Drizzle glaze over warm cake. Optional: Top with pecan halves.

Notes: (1) The inspiration recipe recommended a sour cream based glaze (one half cup confectionary sugar, two Tablespoons sour cream, 1 1/2 teaspoons whole milk). (2) If using an 8 inch cake pan, baking time may need to be adjusted slightly, but would recommend checking for doneness at 45 minutes. (3) Be sure to drain the crushed pineapple before adding to the batter.

Lower Dells falls at Matthiessen State Park, Ogelsby, Illinois (January 2017)

Thanksgiving Round-Up: The Desserts

"Begin with the end in mind." Desserts making an appearance on my Thanksgiving table are generally very different than the ones made for Christmas. However, there are two exceptions in this year's Thanksgiving Dessert Round-Up (the Chocolate Mousse Cake with Raspberry Sauce and the Mocha Chocolate Chip Icebox Cake). Because most anything chocolate are favorites on pretty much any holiday. Not surprisingly, no one in my family wants to see anything pumpkin in December (more than likely the culprit is pumpkin spice overload). So Thanksgiving is the last holiday of the year for everyone get their pumpkin fix. Although pie may be the quintessentially classic way to celebrate the pumpkin on the dessert table, pumpkin bars and cakes may actually be more sweet tooth satisfying. No one says you can't have both. It is actually Thanksgiving, the one day a year where we turn a blind eye to over-indulgence.

Whittling a Thanksgiving Dessert Round-Up down to eight satisfying, sumptuous, eye-candy gorgeous desserts wasn't easy. I could have easily added a couple more. Like the Brown Butter Caramelized Apple Crisp or the Stone Fruit and Mascarpone Tart with Triple Ginger Crust) to create a top ten list. But sometimes enough is enough and the more choices there are, the harder it is to choose.

Almost all of these desserts can be made the day before, although a couple need some Thanksgiving Day finishing touches. If you need to bring a dessert to a holiday gathering, the Pumpkin Squares are the best for traveling. All of them are delicious the day served. And if leftovers are available, maybe even tastier the next day (when we all have more room in our stomachs). There is something for everyone here. Except there are no cookies. If one cookie is Thanksgiving worthy it would be rolled, cut-out sugar cookies in the shapes of pilgrims, turkeys, and/or cornucopias decorated in royal icing. Regardless which dessert you decide to serve to your family and friends this holiday, give them with something homemade with love.

Brûléed Pumpkin Pie with Caramel Swirl 

Lemon Meringue Tart

Brown Butter Pumpkin Spice Cake

Pumpkin Squares

Chocolate Mousse Cake with Raspberry Sauce

Applesauce Spice Cake with Cinnamon Cream Cheese Frosting

Mocha Chocolate Chip Icebox Cake

French Laundry's Cranberry and Apple Kuchen with Hot Cream Sauce

Lighthouse along the shore of Lake Michigan in South Haven, Michigan (November 2016)

Thanksgiving Round Up: The Sides

If there was ever a holiday dominated by traditions, Thanksgiving might be the one having this distinction. At least in my world. This is not to say that every Thanksgiving is the same. It isn't. Oh, there are elements of continuity from year to year (with one unforgettable exception), but it has become a tradition to be sightly non-traditional. Although there is one sacred part of the meal: the turkey, stuffing, and gravy. Mess with that part of the dinner and, well, I will not take responsibility for what could happen next or how far I will spiral downward. Yet changes to the appetizers, sides, desserts, or even the table setting would not even phase me at all. My Thanksgiving flexibility is clearly compartmentalized. 

This year will be a very different Thanksgiving. With the person who shall remain nameless not returning home from an out of the country work assignment until after this holiday, I am left with deciding how, where, and with whom I will honor and celebrate it. At the moment, my fiercely independent side is having an ongoing conversation with my traditional side, with both sides being egged on by a few other personality characters (aren't we all more or less multidimensional?). Fortunately I have some time before having to make a decision. But for those of you fortunate enough to have a Thanksgiving plan already in place, maybe this is your year to change it up a bit. Particularly the meal part of the day. To encourage you to add something new to your holiday table, I will be re-sharing some of my favorite 'perfect' for Thanksgiving dinner recipes over the course of the next few weeks. First up. Well, the sides, of course.

Each of the following seven sides have appeared on 'my' Thanksgiving table more than once. It would be safe to say there is at least one (Wendy's Mashed Potatoes) where everyone's day would be ruined if it wasn't served. And not just because it's 'tradition'. All but one of them can be made the day before and are easily transportable. Each vary in their levels of richness. None of them are what you might consider 'low calorie', although the Roasted Brussels Sprouts Gratin might object. There are no obscure, hard to find, or must go to the ends of earth to find ingredients in any of the recipes. However, I won't guarantee they will be available if you wait until the night before Thanksgiving to do your grocery shopping. All seven of them push the limits on what most would consider 'best ever', 'the most insanely delicious side ever', 'worth fighting over the last spoonful' and/or 'worthy of going on a last meal list'. A click on the link below each of the photos will take you immediately to the recipe. As Ina Garten might say 'How easy is that?'. But don't feel you have to wait for Thanksgiving to make any of them. These sides would make any Sunday dinner, dinner party, and/or Christmas/Hanukkah meal memorable. 

Spiced Cranberry and Dried Fruit Chutney

Wendy's Mashed Potatoes

Roasted Brussels Sprouts Gratin

Caramelized Onion and Mushroom Bread Pudding

Cheesy Hasselback Potato Gratin

Sweet Potato Casserole

Boursin Spinach Gratin

"Not what we say about our blessings, but how we use them, is the true measure of our thanksgiving." (W.T. Purkiser) 

Cinnamon and Apple Crumble

Over the weekend I had the opportunity to be one of the ten thousand volunteers at the Chicago Marathon. A few months back several of  us decided to volunteer at one of the water stations to support the larger running community and, more importantly, to cheer on the runners from our half-marathon and marathon training group. Maybe it was having run two marathons in my first running life that made the day emotionally exhausting for me. For reasons a little hard to explain, tears welled up in my eyes several times as I watched the runners run by our water station. But I'll try. Until you actually run a marathon, it's hard to fully understand the emotional and physical toll the training as well as the marathon itself takes on your spirit and body. It should almost be considered a kind of extreme sport as your psyche runs the gamut from being exhilarated to being enervated. All sometimes within a five minute period of time. Watching from the ten and a half mile mark (they had 15.7 miles more to go), the determination on the faces of those who were running strong as well as those already starting to struggle (trust me, I know what struggle looks like) was clearly evident. Standing on the sidelines holding out cups of water, I could almost feel the collective joy, pain, and angst of every one of the first time and seasoned marathoners as they passed by. It was almost too much to take in. My weepiness reflected how simultaneously inspiring and depleting it felt being just there. By the time I eventually got back home, my body felt as if it had vicariously run that marathon with them.

Had this Cinnamon and Apple Crumble been in the house waiting for me when I got home, I may have allowed myself to eat more than a single piece. One with a generous side of cinnamon whipped cream of course. But I didn't discover the recipe for this crumble until I was scrolling through some of the recipes posted by a recently discovered fellow blogger, Meike Peters in the middle of the night (exhaustion sometimes leads to sleeplessness). As is often the case with recipes shared by food bloggers living in other countries (Meike currently lives in Berlin), the ingredient amounts are in metric form (not a problem when using a scale) and some ingredients (e.g., Boscoop apples) are indigenous to different parts of the world  and not yet available in the states. Minor obstacles, especially when one is motivated to make a recipe.

The Cinnamon and Apple Crumble is part cake, part crumble, and pure deliciousness. It is the best of both worlds combined into a single dessert. Once you too feel compelled to make this cake, the only decision left will be whether to serve it as a dessert, for breakfast, as a reward, or for some or all of the aforementioned reasons.

Years ago I bought an OXO food scale. Not only has it enabled me to measure ingredients in either ounces or grams, it has been invaluable in ensuring accuracy and consistency. With more and more cookbooks listing recipes in metric form and more recipes emanating from all over the world (where grams are the standard unit of measure), the scale has become an invaluable kitchen tool. If you have not yet invested in one of these scales, I have provided conversions for you in the recipe listed below. Meike's recipe called for the use of Boscoop apples which, I have to admit, were a variety of apple I had never heard of before. Quite possibly because these medium-sized, yellow with a red blush skinned, tart apples are primarily available in the Netherlands and France (two places I have not yet traveled to). The closest 'American' version of this apple would be a Granny Smith. 

Depending on the size of the Granny Smith apples picked at the apple orchard or bought from the market, you will need 4 to 5 of them. The apples are peeled, cored, halved, and cut into quarter inch slices.

There are essentially three layers to this Cinnamon and Apple Crumble: The base cake layer, the apple layer, and the crumble layer. It comes together easiest if you begin by first making the base cake layer. The cake batter can be made in a standing mixer fitted with a paddle attachment (or a handheld mixer). Once all of the ingredients are blended, it has a beautiful consistency and spreads easily in a prepared 10 inch springform pan. 

To add a bit more cinnamon flavor to the crumble, I sprinkled the sliced apples with a cinnamon-sugar mixture (see recipe below). Note: Lightly press the sliced apples into the cake layer before sprinkling with the cinnamon sugar and/or topping with the crumble mixture.

The consistency of the crumble mixture was perfect. However, if for some reason yours turns out a bit dry, add a little more melted butter.  And if too wet, add a little more flour, one tablespoon at a time. It should be wet and crumbly, not sticky or dry.

The Cinnamon and Apple Crumble is baked in a preheated 355 degree (F) oven for 50-55 minutes. The crumble is done when the top is beautifully browned and a tester inserted into the cake comes out clean. Allow the cake to rest in the pan 15-20 minutes before running a knife along the edge of the cake and transferring cake to a cake stand or platter. Note: Do not remove the cake from the springform bottom while hot and/or warm. I served my crumble with the bottom still under it.

Freshly whipped Cinnamon Whip Cream or vanilla ice cream are the proverbial icing on the cake, or in this case crumble, accompaniments. 

Made in a 10 inch springform pan, this cake generously serves 10-12 people. 

There is a lot going on in this crumble. From the tender, sweet cake bottom, to the tart, baked apples, to the cinnamon crunchy crumble top, it is a sweet tooth satisfying trifecta.

No matter how many apple recipes you have in your repertoire, you need to make room for one more. This one. With apple season in full swing here in the states, this Cinnamon and Apple Crumble is yet another reason to make a trip to an apple orchard (or the market) sooner rather than later. 

Recipe
Cinnamon and Apple Crumble (slight adaptation to Meike Peter's Apple and Cinnamon Crumble recipe)
Serves 10-12

Ingredients
Cake
125 grams of unsalted butter, room temperature (or 9 1/2 Tablespoons)
3 large eggs, room temperature
2 teaspoons baking powder
1 teaspoon vanilla paste (or 1 teaspoon vanilla or 1 teaspoon of commercially made vanilla sugar)
Pinch of kosher salt
125 grams of granulated sugar (or slightly less than 2/3 cup)
250 grams of all-purpose flour (or 1 3/4 cups plus 1 generous Tablespoon)
4-5 Granny Smith apples, peeled, cored, halved, and cut into 1/4 inch slices

Crumble
125 grams of unsalted butter (or 9 1/2 Tablespoons), melted
125 grams of granulated sugar (or slightly less than 2/3 cup)
1 teaspoon vanilla paste (or 1 teaspoon vanilla or 1 teaspoon of commercial vanilla sugar)
2 teaspoons cinnamon
200 grams all-purpose flour (or 1 1/2 cups plus 1 Tablespoon)

Cinnamon Whipped Cream
1/2 pint heavy whipping cream
2 Tablespoon confectionary sugar
1/4 teaspoon cinnamon
1/2 teaspoon vanilla paste (or vanilla)

Directions
Cake
1. Preheat oven to 355 degrees (F). Butter and/or spray a 10 inch springform pan and set aside.
2. Whisk together the flour, baking powder, and salt. Set aside.
3. In a standing mixer fitted with a paddle attachment, cream butter. Add sugar and beat until light and fluffy (approximately 3-4 minutes).
4. Add in eggs one at a time, beating well after each addition. Note: Scrape sides of bowl between egg addition.
5. Blend in flour mixture, beating on low until well blended.
6. Spread cake batter in prepared plan. 
7. Arrange the apples on top of the batter, pressing lightly into the batter. Note: I sprinkled the top of the apples with a cinnamon sugar mixture before topping with the crumble. To make the cinnamon-sugar mixture, blend together 1/4 teaspoon cinnamon and 1 Tablespoon of caster or granulated sugar.

Crumble
1. In a medium sized bowl, blend the flour, sugar, cinnamon and melted butter until crumbles form. Note: If the mixture is too dry, add some additional butter. If too wet, add more flour, 1 Tablespoon at at time. 
2. Sprinkle the crumble mixture evenly over top of the apples.
3. Place baking pan in the preheated oven. Bake for 50-55 minutes or until top is golden and a skewer comes out clean when inserted into the cake. Allow cake to cool in pan for 10-15 minutes. Run a knife along the edge of the cake and remove springform pan ring. Transfer cake to a plate or platter.

Cinnamon Whipped Cream
1. In a mixer fitted with a whisk attachment, whip cream at high speed until soft peaks form.
2. Add confectionary sugar, vanilla paste and cinnamon. Continue beating until firm peaks form.
3. Serve crumble with Cinnamon Whipped Cream and/or vanilla ice cream. 

Grazing horses in northern Illinois.