Thursday, January 30, 2020

Linguine al Limone


For someone who claims to have a fondness for Italian food along with ranking Italian restaurants as amongst my most favorite, it's hard to believe I have never tasted the classic Linguine al Limone before. Seriously, what kind of sheltered or myopic life have I been living? Is it time for me reluctantly admit that I am more of a creature of habit and a less adventuresome Italian food lover? That would be one of those hard to swallow realizations! And considering the number of Italian cookbooks I own, make having a lemon pasta void in my life even more unfathomable. Fortunately for me, and now maybe for you, my life now includes this simple, creamy, silky, citrusy Linguine al Limone. 


A year ago we were coping the polar vortex. This year is a different story. The weather has been relatively mild here in the Midwest, but we haven't had any sunshine or even a hint of a blue sky here for what seems like an eternity around here. Although in reality we have had eight consecutive days of gray gloominess. Could this be what living in parts of the Pacific Northwest feels like during the winter months? Or is that one of the myths people from Oregon and Washington want us to believe so they can keep their idyllic landscapes a secret from the masses. If there were ever a dish to bring some virtual sunshine into your life it would be a platter of this Linguine al Limone. Even if you live in the south or southwest this pasta dish will make your already good sunny days even better ones. In just one bite I noticed a considerable shift in my mood.


My brief search on the exact origin of Pasta al Limone revealed it may have first been created in the Campania region of Italy. As the southern west coast side of Italy is known for it's abundance of lemons (i.e., Amalfi, Sorrento, Sicily). Recipes for Pasta al Limone fall into two main versions but with variations: uncooked and cooked. Other than preparation, the differences between the two generally center on ingredients. Both versions are made with lemon, pasta, parmesan, salt, and pepper. Uncooked versions are made with oil, while many cooked versions are made with butter and often heavy cream. Some recipes include the addition of garlic, herbs (usually basil), and/or shallots. The recipe for this Linguine al Limone is a cooked version. Almost any sauce made with butter, heavy cream, and Parmigiano-Reggiano falls in the seductive, irresistible category for me.


And this Linguine al Limone is luxurious.


From what I have read, it seems spaghetti is the pasta used most often in this classic Italian dish. However, it can be made with any long pasta, like linguine or fettuccini. I happen to be partial to linguine. Most pasta comes in one pound packages, but his recipe calls for only twelve ounces. Which means you will need to weigh out your pasta to ensure your finished dish has the right pasta to sauce ratio.


I am not a big fan of prepackaged grated parmesan cheese even if the packages are labeled Parmigiano-Reggiano. Not only because I feel they 'lose their flavor', but more importantly, every recipe calls for a different kind of grated cheese. Depending on how you measure grated parmesan cheese, the amounts or pre-grated versus freshly grated cheese will vary widely. Weighing out your grated cheese will prevent you from either not having enough or from having too much. This one calls a finely grated, fluffy-like Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese in order to create the silkiest of sauces. 


The lemon is used three ways in this recipe. In thinly sliced strips of the lemon zest, as finely grated lemon zest, and with freshly squeezed lemon juice. In order for this dish to have the right amount of that bright lemon flavor, buy a really large lemon.


The entire dish comes together in less thirty minutes inclusive of preparation time. Making it perfect for weeknight dinners as well as for casual, impromptu weekend entertaining. Putting a well salted pot of water on the stove and having all of your ingredients prepped before you begin is essential as this dish requires some timing. The sauce can begin to be made during the 6 to 7 minutes it takes for the pasta to get to the 'al dente' stage. 


While it's recommended you reserve 1 1/2 cups of the pasta cooking liquid, only three-quarters of a cup will initially be added into the sauce. In the event your sauce is too thick, you will have enough left over if you need some additional liquid to achieve a creamy consistency. Immediately after the pasta liquid is quickly whisked together, in goes the drained pasta. Adding the finely grated cheese in batches enables it to completely melt into the sauce (about 2-3 minutes of cooking time). Lastly the lemon juice along with some kosher salt to taste is blended in. The mixture should have the creamiest texture and be well-seasoned.

This cooked version of Linguine al Limone is meant to be eaten as soon as it is finished cooking. Once transferred to a large platter it is topped with the reserved thin slices of lemon peel and freshly grated black pepper. A light sprinkling of Italian Herbed Sea Salt is optional but makes for an even more delicious finish to this simple, yet incredibly luscious dish.

Serve it as the pasta course or as the main dish. Pair it with a beautiful salad and/or some grilled fish/shrimp (or even a roasted chicken) or just make the Linguine al Limone the only course. Don't forget to open up a really good chilled white wine to complete the meal. A bowl of this classic Mediterranean pasta and a glass of wine will definitely brighten up your mood regardless of the weather outside or if you happen to be having one of those life gives you lemons kind of days.
Recipe
Linguine al Limone (a slight adaptation to Bon Appetit's Pasta al Limone recipe)
Serves 4-6

Ingredients
1 large lemon 
12 ounces (341 g) linguini or other long pasta (spaghetti, fettuccini, or pappardelle)
3/4 cup heavy whipping cream
6 Tablespoons unsalted butter, cut into tablespoons
3 ounces (85g) Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese, freshly grated
3/4 cup pasta water, plus additional as needed
Kosher salt
Freshly cracked black pepper
Optional: Italian Herbed Sea Salt for finishing
Optional: Additional freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese for serving

Directions
1. Using a vegetable peeler, remove two 2" long strips of lemon zest. Very thinly slice each strip lengthwise and set aside (for serving). Finely grate the remaining zest into a large Dutch oven. Cut the lemon in half and squeeze out enough juice to yield 2 Tablespoons into a small bowl and set aside.
2. Cook linguine in a large pot of boiling, salted water, stirring occasionally, until very al dente (my cooking time for linguine was about 6 1/2 minutes). Remove pasta from the pot but reserve at least 1 1/2 cups of the pasta water.
3. As soon as the linguine is put into the water add the heavy cream to the lemon zest and cook over medium heat, whisking often, until the liquid begins to come to a simmer (about 2 minutes). Reduce heat to medium-low and whisk in the butter 1 Tablespoon at a time until melted and the sauce is creamy and emulsified. Remove from heat (if your pasta is not yet finished cooking).
4. As soon as the pasta is al dente, return the pot with the sauce to medium heat and add in 3/4 cup of the hot pasta cooking liquid. Whisk to combine. Immediately transfer the drained linguine into the sauce. Cook, tossing often and adding in the Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese little by little until the cheese is melted and the sauce is creamy (about 2-3 minutes).  Note: If the sauce is too thick add in a little more of the reserved pasta liquid a Tablespoon at a time.
5. Stir in the reserved lemon juice and season with kosher salt.
6. Transfer pasta to a large bowl. Season with cracked pepper, Italian Herbed Sea Salt (if using), and the reserved thinly sliced lemon zest strips.
7. Serve immediately with a great bottle of white wine and additional Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese (if using).

Notes: (1) The recipe calls for only 12 ounces of pasta. Most pasta comes in one pound (16 ounces) packages. Be certain to measure your pasta out before starting this dish. (2) In the event you have any leftovers, keep the remaining 3/4 cup of pasta cooking liquid. You can reheat the pasta on low in the microwave adding in some hot liquid if necessary.

Monday, January 27, 2020

Maple Blueberry Scones


Sometimes it takes the loss of someone beloved, someone famous, someone so very young, someone who served as a role-model, someone who inspired others, or someone we have admired from afar to remind us that life can change in an instant. The words 'life is short' resonate with us on a deeper, more personal level when this happens. To the point where we temporarily hold our breath while we gather the courage to own up to our mistakes or hurtful actions, reconnect with the person(s) in our lives we once treasured, express how we feel, or commit to being our best self. Sometimes it takes a tragic loss to cause us to experience an emotional earthquake. The passing of Kobe Bryant, a basketball legend and humanitarian, this weekend may be one of those singular, sorrowful moments regardless of how old we are or whether we were a fan or not to lean into. One never knows or even anticipates all of the legacies they will leave behind. Being reminded how much our words and actions matter may be just one of the many Kobe Bryant left behind.


Baking for me has always been therapeutic, a time for me to process the million thoughts and feelings running through my head. When I started making these Maple Blueberry Scones Sunday morning, I never anticipated how much I needed or what would put the focus on my frequent dose of self-reflective therapy. Suddenly, one of the conversations in my head shifted from beating myself up over not meeting a race goal to accepting I may not have put it all out there. Seeing a post of the words "When we are saying this cannot be accomplished, this cannot be done, then we are short-changing ourselves...." once shared by Kobe Bryant reverberated through me. To the point where I acknowledged for the first time out loud that my running 'head game' is not always what it should be, more importantly, what it can be. Saying it out loud set off a different kind earthquake in me. Not so much of an emotional one, but a kind of a galvanizing one. Changing my head game is going to take some work (it's hard to override the negative messages one gives to themselves), but 'life is short' and someday isn't coming.

I have made Current Scones and Mixed Berry Scones before, but never Maple Blueberry Scones. Which is a bit odd since I love everything maple and blueberry. Unlike my other two scone recipes, these are made with both whole wheat and all-purpose flours, are sweetened with maple syrup instead of sugar, use buttermilk instead of whole milk or heavy cream, are made in a standing mixer rather than mixed by hand, and lastly, formed with an ice cream scoop rather than being rolled out and cut. All of which I have to believe contribute to the most flavorful, flakiest scone I have ever eaten. If there was ever a scone that didn't need to be slathered with clotted cream, butter, or jam, this would be the one. Yes, it's that delicious!


For those of you who are serious scone bakers, the somewhat non-traditional technique used to make these Maple Blueberry Scones may go against everything you believe. But trust me when I say this scone recipe is a game-changer. I have been transformed from someone who likes scones to someone who now loves scones.

With the possible exception of the creme fraiche, all of ingredients in the Maple Blueberry Scones recipe are ones easily found in almost every grocery store. Creme fraiche, a thicker, richer, less tangy version of sour cream, is starting to become more accessible. But if you can't find it (but try as hard as you can to and see notes below) there are a number of recipes available online (having not made a homemade version of creme fraiche, I am reluctant to tell you which one is the best). You can gain a good understanding of the differences between sour cream and creme fraiche by reading this article. Note: For these scones I used an European-style unsalted butter and really good quality maple syrup.


The butter is added into the dry ingredient mixture in two additions. Half of the butter (cut only into large tablespoon sized pieces) is added first. After being mixed in for 2-3 minutes, the other half of the butter (cut into 1/4" or 1/2" pieces) is pulsed in 4-5 times so it gets coated but remains pea sized. These pieces of butter contribute the scone's flakiness. All of the wet ingredients including the blueberries are added in all at once, but mixed only long enough (or rather short enough) for the liquid to begin to absorb some of the dry ingredients. Your hands are used to finish the blending process.


Once the dough comes together you have three choices after forming the dough into large balls using a large ice cream scoop. (1) You can place them on a baking sheet and bake in preheated 350 degree oven; (2) you can wrap them and refrigerate them for at least an hour or overnight; or (3) you can place them on a small baking tray insert into a plastic freezer bag and freeze (for up 5-7 days). These Maple Blueberry Scones were baked immediately. Although after I tasted one, I wish I had saved a few to freeze for later as they are best enjoyed the first day (but still really good on day 2). Lesson learned.


The maple glaze can be made while the scones are baking or just before they come out of the oven as it gets poured (or brushed) on immediately after the scones come out of the oven.

The maple glaze should have a thick but pourable, spreadable consistency.

 
You are supposed to wait 30 minutes after the scones come out of the oven to serve them. And you should. Although it may feel like the longest 30 minutes of your life. From their finished look to their flavor, texture, and taste I cannot even begin to give these Maple Blueberry Scones all of the accolades they deserve. The maple syrup adds great flavor without being overpowering along with the right amount of sweetness. The fresh blueberries remain relatively intact resulting in pockets of sweet blueberry deliciousness momentarily transporting you back to summer. Although slightly more cakey in texture than most scones, they have the right amount of sturdiest to them without having the quality of a hockey puck. If there is any downside to these Maple Blueberry Scones is that it's hard to eat only one in spite of how generously sized they are. It's been awhile since I put anything on the proverbial last meal list. These are definitely going on it. However, since we never know what tomorrow will bring, they will be now making regular appearances around here.

Recipe
Maple Blueberry Scones (slight adaption to Joanne Chang's Whole Wheat Maple Blueberry Scones from her cookbook "Pastry Love" A Baker's Journal of Favorite Recipes".)
Makes 10 scones

Ingredients
Maple Blueberry Scones
1 2/3 cups (240 g) whole wheat flour
1 cup (140 g) all-purpose flour
1 1/2 teaspoons baking powder
1/2 teaspoon baking soda
1/2 teaspoon kosher salt
3/4 cup (1 1/2 sticks, 170 g) European-style unsalted butter, cold and divided (cut half into tablespoons, cut the other half into 1/4" to 1/2" pieces)
1/2 cup (120 g) creme fraiche
1/2 cup (170 g) good quality maple syrup
1/3 cup (80 g) buttermilk
1 large egg yolk
1 1/2 cups (188 g) fresh blueberries

Maple Glaze
1 cup (120 g) confectionary sugar
5-6 Tablespoons good quality maple syrup
Generous pinch of Kosher salt

Directions
Maple Blueberry Scones
1. Preheat oven to 350 degrees (F). Line a large baking sheet with parchment paper. Set aside.
2. In the bowl of a standing mixer fitted with a paddle attachment, add in the both flours, baking powder, baking soda, and kosher salt. Mix on low speed just until combined.
3. Add in half the butter (the pieces cut in Tablespoons) to the flour mixture. Mix on low-medium speed for 2-3 minutes or until the butter is fully mixed into the flour.
4. Add in the remaining butter (the small cut pieces). Pulse 4-5 times just to blend in. They will remain pea sized.
5. In a medium sized bowl, whisk together the creme fraiche, maple syrup, buttermilk, and egg yolk until blended. Stir in the blueberries.
6. Pour the mixture into the flour/butter mixture. Mix only for 10-12 seconds only to get some of the liquid into the dry ingredients. Mix the rest of the loose flour into the flour using your hands. Gather and lift the dough with your hands and turn it over several ties until all of the loose flour is mixed in.
7. Using a large ice cream scoop (2 1/2 inches in diameter), scoop out mounds of the dough and place on prepared baking sheet, leaving at least 2 inches of space between each ball of dough.
8. Place in oven and bake for 35-40 minutes, rotating the baking sheet midway, until they are evenly golden and slightly firm when you press them.
9. Remove from oven and immediately pour and/or brush with the maple glaze while scones are still on the baking sheet.

Maple Glaze and Assembly (make while the scones are baking)
1. In a medium sized bowl, whisk together the confectionary sugar, maple syrup and kosher salt until smooth and creamy, thick, but having a pourable/spreadable texture. Re-whisk just before using.
2. Pour and/or brush the glaze over the baked scones as soon as they come out of the oven. 
3. Let scones cool 20-30 minutes before serving.

Notes: (1) I used a European-style butter for these scones. (2) The scones were baked in the oven immediately after the dough was scooped onto the baking sheet. Alternately, place and tightly cover the unbaked scones in the refrigerator for at least one hour (or overnight) to allow the flour to become absorbed. (3) The scones are best the day they are baked, but if stored at room temperature in a tightly sealed container they will be good for 2-3 days. You can refresh them in a preheated 300 degree (F) oven for 4-5 minutes. (4) The scones can be made ahead. After forming the dough into balls, set on small baking sheet then place in a plastic freezer bag before placing in the freezer. Scones can be frozen for up to 5-7 days. Baking time for frozen scones will increase by 5-10 minutes. (5) I used Vermont Creamery's Creme Fraiche regularly carried at Whole Foods.

Thursday, January 23, 2020

Fruit and Nut Bark


Ever since tasting my first mendiants, a chocolate disk shaped confection studded with dried fruits and nuts, on a long ago trip to the Cotswalds, I have had a fondness for confections bearing any resemblance to the taste of them. Was funny how a mendiant gave me a new appreciation for those Chunky candy squares I used to make a face at as a kid. Historically mendiants were made with the four traditional toppings of almonds, raisins, hazelnuts, and dried figs. However, today the number and combination of fruit and nut toppings vary greatly. In other words, they can be made with whatever fruit and nut amalgamations appeal to you. Rather than making perfect, evenly sized chocolate circles, I prefer making a bark version of this fruit and nut confection. For the simple reason being bark is much easier to make without there being any sacrifice in flavor. But there is another benefit of making a fruit and nut confection in bark form. It is much easier to control the thickness of the chocolate. I, for one, prefer to have the thicker candy bar-like confections eating experience. 

It would be safe to say mendiants served as the inspiration for this Fruit and Nut Bark as there are several differences between the two of them. When making bark you aren't bound to a 4 fruit-nut combination. This bark uses only one fruit and one nut (see notes below for some of my other favorite combinations). In addition, nuts are not just randomly placed on top of the melted chocolate, they are mixed in to the (semi-sweet) chocolate as well. Lastly, this Fruit and Nut Bark gets a sprinkling of flaky sea salt finishing touch.


To give this Fruit and Nut Bark a bit of a Valentine's Day look a small amount of pink food coloring gel was added to some of the melted white chocolate. 


Just enough gel to give a subtle, pale pink touch to the finished bark. A little goes a long way. 


Use a good quality melting chocolate when making this bark. Whatever you do, don't use those 'melting' wafers often found in craft stores (it's not chocolate) or chocolate chips.

To melt the chocolate I used both the microwave method (for the semi-sweet chocolate) and the double-boiler method (for the white chocolate). The pink food coloring gel was added to about 1/3 of the melted white chocolate.


One of best tools for swirling the chocolates together is a chop stick. If you don't have one laying around, use a skewer or even the tip of a knife. Even a straw would work. 

Use your imagination when making the swirling design. This one would fall into the random swirly category. 


The bottom layer of the bark should be the darker (or semi-sweet) chocolate mixed with 7 ounces of the roasted whole almonds (the remaining 3 ounces will be sprinkled on top). The White and/or Pink colored white chocolate should be poured on top. Be careful not to let the bottom layer begin to set up or you won't be able to swirl the two chocolates together. Additionally, the top layer should still be 'wet' when sprinkling on the dried cranberries, remaining roasted almonds, and flaky sea salt.

Let the Fruit and Nut Bark set up before cutting with a knife or breaking up into random sized pieces. In cooler temperature months it sets up pretty quickly (no need to put the tray in the refrigerator). Serve the Fruit and Nut Bark on a large platter, put some pieces on a charcuterie board, and/or place a few pieces in cellophane bags tied with ribbon if you are gifting friends or making party favors. I should warn you, this Fruit and Nut Bark has an addictive quality to it. 
Recipe
Fruit and Nut Bark
Makes about 2 1/2 pounds of bark

Ingredients
16 ounces/454 g good quality dark or semi-sweet chocolate, chopped
16 ounces/454 g good quality white chocolate, chopped
4 ounces/112 g dried cranberries 
10 ounces/273g whole roasted almonds, divided (See notes)
Flaky Sea Salt for finishing
Optional: Pink Gel Food Coloring, one or two drops

Directions
1. Line a large rimmed baking sheet with parchment paper and set aside.
2. Simultaneously melt the semi-sweet (or dark) and white chocolate using either the microwave or double boiler method. Note: White chocolate is best melted using the double boiler method.
3. Pour about 1/3 of the white chocolate into a small bowl. Add one or two drops of food coloring gel if using.
4. Mix in 7 ounces of the roasted almonds into the semi-sweet (or dark) chocolate. Spread onto the prepared tray. Do not spread too thinly.
5. Pour the white and pink colored melted white chocolates on top. Use a chopstick (or other swirling tool) to swirl the chocolates together.
6. Sprinkle the remaining 3 ounces of the roasted almonds and the dried cranberries on top. Tap the baking sheet on the counter to ensure the nuts and fruits sink into the chocolate. While the chocolate is still wet, lightly sprinkle with flaky sea salt.
7. Let the Fruit and Nut Bark come to room temperature (approximately 45 minutes). When cooled completely the bark can be cut with a knife or broken up by hand.
8. Serve on a platter or store in a sealed container. The bark will be good for up to two weeks.

Notes: (1) The number of Fruit and Nut Bark combinations are almost endless. Here are some of my other favorites: Cashews, Dried Cherries, Pistachios, and Apricots; Cashews, Almonds, Dried Cranberries; Pistachios, Dried Cherries, Almonds; Cashews, diced Dried Oranges or Orange Peels, Cranberries, and Almonds. (2) I used both semi-sweet and white chocolate to make this Fruit and Nut Bark, but you could also use milk-chocolate or semi-sweet chocolate only. (3) You can find packages of whole Roasted Almonds in most grocery stores and/or at Trader Joe's.

Monday, January 13, 2020

Brown Butter Honey Roasted Peanut Rice Krispie Treats


Since it was published in 1868 there have been eight film adaptations of the novel "Little Women" by Louisa May Alcott. Up until this past weekend I think I may have only seen only two of them. Some might wonder why there needs to be so many movie iterations of a book when there are so many books and/or stories yet to be put to the big screen. But once you see Greta Gerwig's vision for and version of "Little Women" you might be happy there was yet another version. As this just might be the best, most compelling one. At least I thought it was. So when I saw a recipe for a Browned Butter Peanut Butter Rice Krispie Treat I couldn't help but wonder if this version could possibly be better than the ones first popularized in the 1940s or my personal favorite the Over the Top Rice Krispie Treats. Needless to say I had to find out.


Browned butter, chocolate, honey roasted peanuts, and peanut butter are attention getting ingredients. And like the movie "Little Women", I learned you definitely need another version of rice krispie treats in your life. More specifically you want these Brown Butter Honey Roasted Peanut Rice Krispie Treats. I can't tell you if they are the absolute best rice krispie treat ever because almost no other rice krispie treat compares to them. They are either in a league of their own or completely redefine the concept of a rice krispie treat. Am really glad I gave all but two of them away as they are addictively dangerous.


Your friends and family will not be able to stop talking about them.


Even without the optional addition of a cup of miniature marshmallows, there is a great marshmallow to rice krispie cereal ratio to these treats. Meaning they have the kind of marshmallow texture many of us love in a rice krispie treat. The browned butter and coarsely chopped honey roasted peanuts add a depth of complex, irresistible flavor to these treats making them incredibly scrumptious. The rich nuttiness of the browned butter compliments the honey roasted peanuts perfectly. It is definitely one of the game changing ingredients in these treats.


The best way to press the rice krispie treat mixture into the pan is to lightly coat your hands with softened butter and simply press down. Because a chocolate peanut butter ganache layer will be spread over the top of the treats, you want the surface to be as even as possible.


Melted semi-sweet chocolate, creamy peanut butter, and a little bit of kosher salt makes for a luscious ganache.


And a light sprinkling of flaky sea salt kicks the flavor of these Brown Butter Honey Roasted Peanut Rice Krispie Treats up a notch.


Using a 9" x 9" pan makes sixteen eye-popping large treats. Each one big enough to share or slice. Granted this size rice krispie treat isn't for everyone. You can always opt to make them in .a 7.5" x 13" or 9" x 13" pan. Larger pans will slightly reduce the amount of that dreamy chocolate peanut butter ganache on each piece.

The next time you need to bring a dessert to a gathering, bring these Brown Butter Honey Roasted Peanut Rice Krispie Treats. They will be talking about them for weeks. But remember to keep one behind for you to enjoy.


Without the ganache, the treats themselves may be the only way you want to eat them ever again. The combination of flavors of the browned butter and honey roasted peanuts makes them one of the best versions of the classic rice krispie treat to ever be created. A convincing case could be made to put these treats in both the dessert and breakfast categories. Just saying.

Recipe
Brown Butter Honey Roasted Peanut Rice Krispie Treats
Makes 16 generous sized treats

Ingredients
Honey Roasted Peanut Rice Krispie Treats
1 cup (16 Tablespoons) unsalted butter, cut into 1 pieces
1 1/2 teaspoons vanilla bean paste (or 1 1/2 teaspoons vanilla)
1 teaspoon kosher salt
2 (10 ounce bags/560 g) regular-size marshmallows
6 cups (204 g) crisp rice cereal
2 cups (300 g) honey roasted peanuts, coarsely chopped

Optional: 1 cup miniature marshmallows

Chocolate Peanut Butter Ganache
10 ounces (280 g) semi-sweet or bittersweet chocolate, chopped
1 cup (260 g) creamy peanut butter
1/2 teaspoon kosher salt

Flaky Sea Salt for finishing

Directions
Honey Roasted Peanut Rice Krispie Treats
1. Line a 9" x 9" baking pan with parchment paper. Alternately use a 7" x 13" or a 9" x 13" baking pan. Set aside. (See notes)
2. In a large Dutch oven or heavy bottomed pot, melt the butter over medium heat. It will start to bubble and crackle. Whisking occasionally carefully watch the butter as soon as the bubbling subsides. After about 4-5 minutes the butter will be fully browned (it will have a beautiful golden brown color and there will be little brown bits on the bottom of the pan).
3. Immediately add the marshmallows and salt. Stir using a wooden spoon until the marshmallows have melted. Remove from heat.
4. Add in the crispy rice cereal and the coarsely chopped honey roasted peanuts. Mix well. At this point you can also add in a large handful of miniature marshmallows if using.
5. Transfer the mixture to the prepared pan. With your hands lightly covered in butter, press the treats down into the pan, creating a smooth, even top. Let cool to room temperature (approximately 45-60 minutes).

Chocolate Peanut Butter Ganache
1. Melt the chocolate in the microwave or in a bowl set over (but not touching) boiling water.
2. Add the salt and stir the melted chocolate until smooth.
3. Whisk in creamy peanut butter in 4-5 large dollops at a time until the ganache is smooth.
4. Pour the ganache over the top of the treats. Spread evenly with an offset spatula. Let cool until firmed up.
5. Cut into 16 pieces.
6. The Brown Butter Honey Roasted Peanut Rice Krispie Treats can be stored in an airtight container at room temperature for up to 2 days. But they probably won't last that long.

Notes: (1) The recipe was inspired from Joanne Chang's new cookbook "Pastry Love: A Baker's Journal of Favorite Recipe", (2) The inspiration recipe called for the use of 9" x 13" pan, however, I am not a big fan of 'thinner' rice krispy treats. My favorite pan to use is a 9" x 9" one. But if I wanted more than 16 generous sized treats I would use either a 7.5" x 13" or a 9" x 13" pan. (3) Using a small food processor to chop up the nuts is much easier than chopping them with a knife.

Saturday, January 11, 2020

Buttermilk Biscuits


Every Christmas since they were born, my niece and nephew have always been given a gift of Christmas ornaments. Now that they are each in their early 20s they probably have enough of an eclectic ornament collection to decorate a small tree. Unlike one of my friends who had the brilliant idea of finding Christmas ornaments to match her grandchildren's Halloween costumes each year, I sometimes, but not always, had a specific theme in mind when I was on the ornament hunt. But this year I was specifically looking for one symbolizing the place my nephew currently works and lives. So someday when or if he is living in another state, the ornament will remind him of the place he once called home. He currently lives in Alabama. It seemed only fitting one of his Christmas ornaments this year needed to be a biscuit. And it was. The other one was a hot dog truck to serve as a reminder of Chicago, the place he grew up near.

But this biscuit ornament represented more than his current home state, at least it did for me. While visiting him earlier in the fall we had breakfast one morning at my favorite place for biscuits, The Alabama Biscuit Company in Birmingham. It is my hope that when he hangs the biscuit ornament on all of his future Christmas trees it reminds him of not one, but two memories.


For a long time I have wanted to make a really, really, really good biscuit. The kind with tender flaky pull apart layers, a golden crisp exterior and a buttery interior that melts-in-your-mouth in the first bite. One anyone, but especially a Southerner, would not only swoon over, but might wonder where I grew up. Having looked at biscuit recipes for quite some time now, I knew mine would have to be made with White Lily Flour, aka the secret ingredient of Southern bakers. On my recent trip to Birmingham (AL), I stopped in one of the grocery stores to bring home a bag (I should have bought two of them) as its' more readily available in the south than it is up here in the midwest. If you are going to make a quintessentially Southern food, especially biscuits, one needs to use locally sourced ingredients. This would be one of those rather strong opinions or strong beliefs developed over the years. Having lived on the east coast for several years permanently spoiled me for fresh lobsters and freshly made lobster rolls. Returning back to the midwest, I can no longer bring myself to buy or order a lobster or order a lobster roll. They aren't the same. And a biscuit made with all-purpose flour isn't the same as a biscuit made with White Lily Flour. That is, unless you don't want one having a rich yet tender crumb, perfect layered flakiness, and that airy cakiness. All qualities of a perfect biscuit.

The ingredients in most biscuits generally include flour, unsalted butter, baking powder, baking soda, salt, sugar, and buttermilk. Some biscuit recipes call for the use of an egg for structure, height, and richness while others don't. In a recent biscuit bake-off article, the authors noted that "...biscuits baked without egg were more purely buttery and slightly less chewy-the ideal if you want the most tender, buttery biscuit." And I wanted to make the most buttery, tenderest biscuit possible. Mine would be eggless.

Biscuit makers swear by the use of butter, shortening, or a combination of the two in their biscuit recipes. Next to the egg or no egg preference, the butter vs shortening debate is real. The decision as to which one(s) to use may ultimately come down to either personal perceived preference or remaining faithful to the beloved family recipe handed down through the generations. If you have had amazing biscuits made with shortening, you are more than likely to use shortening. The same would be true if your favorite biscuits were made with butter. Each of those ingredients contributes differently to the finished biscuit. But if a biscuit recipe calls for the use of buttermilk, well butter and buttermilk are a match made in heaven. So this recipe uses butter, cold butter, an unsalted European-style butter, a cold unsalted European-style butter because it has the highest amount of butterfat and the lowest amount of water. A butter with more butterfat and less water results in an incredibly flavorful biscuit.


After reading about and comparing more than a couple of dozen biscuit recipes I finally made a decision as to which recipe had the most potential to create a biscuit that wowed! With a few minor tweaks to the ingredients and biscuit assembly, my recipe closely mirrors the one from  Bon Appetit in April 2016.  In addition to using White Lily Flour versus an unspecified all-purpose flour and using an European-style unsalted butter versus an unspecified unsalted butter, I increased the amount of sugar from two teaspoons to one tablespoon. Unlike many of the biscuit recipes I reviewed, this one used a food processor to combine the dry ingredients and the butter. Some say the food processor method doesn't work as well as other methods (e.g. grating frozen butter, using a pastry cutter, etc.) but my results said otherwise.


Cutting the biscuit dough with a knife into twelve squares eliminates any waste or the need for any re-rolling. Which meant, my large collection of biscuit cutters would have to be put to other uses. Once rolled and cut, the biscuits go into the freezer for 10 minutes prior to baking. After brushing the tops of biscuits with melted butter they go into a preheated 425 degree (F) oven quickly reduced to 400 degrees (F) as soon as the baking pan goes into the oven. In just 20-25 minutes the most heavenly, beautiful, flaky, buttery, golden brown biscuits are ready to be inhaled.


Eating a warm biscuit right out of the oven might just put you in a food coma.


For me drizzled honey over a warm biscuit is the bees knees. For you the humble biscuit might be elevated to an ambrosial level when smeared with butter, a great jam, gravy, or pimento cheese. Maybe the biscuit becomes a sandwich filled with a thick slices of ham. Maybe you like to break up pieces of your biscuit and put them in your favorite soup. Or maybe your sweet tooth craves one topped with an apple compote and some vanilla ice cream. In other words, the number of ways to enjoy a buttermilk biscuit are practically endless. 


I really do think it takes eating a really great biscuit to want to make a really great biscuit. Once you do, you come to believe biscuits aren't something nice to have, they are something you need to have. No longer do you need to secretly wish for friend who learned how to make buttery, flaky, tender biscuits by watching her memaw, the person who could make biscuits with her eyes closed. Nor do you have to drive or fly to Alabama, Tennessee, Georgia, or any other southern state claiming to make the world's best biscuits. Now you can make them at home with this recipe. No sorcery or alchemy is necessary to transform ordinary ingredients into something extraordinary. Like these ethereal buttermilk biscuits.

Recipe
Buttermilk Biscuits 
Makes one dozen biscuits
Updated July 2022

Ingredients
2 1/2 teaspoons baking powder
1/4 teaspoon baking soda
2 teaspoons kosher salt
1 Tablespoon granulated sugar
3 1/2 cups (438 g) White Lily Flour OR Gold Medal Unbleached Flour
1 cup (16 Tablespoons) cold unsalted European-style butter cut into 1/2 inch pieces
1 cup cold buttermilk (shake the container well before pouring into a measuring cup)
2 Tablespoons melted unsalted butter OR 1 egg yolk and 1 Tablespoon heavy cream

Serve with honey, preserves/jam, pimento cheese, etc. They also are a great accompaniment to soup and/or make for a great ham sandwich.

Directions
1. Preheat your oven to 425 degrees (F). Line a large baking sheet with parchment paper and set aside.
2. Pulse the flour, baking powder, baking soda, salt, and sugar in a large food processor to combine.
3. Add the butter and process until the largest pieces of the butter are the size of a pea.
4. Transfer the flour/butter mixture to a large bowl.
5. Gradually pour in the cold buttermilk, stirring with a fork as you go to incorporate.
6. Knead the mixture briefly in the bowl until a shaggy dough forms. Not to worry if it looks a bit dry.
7. Turn out onto a clean surface, knead for another minute before forming into a 1" high square. Cut the square in half, place one half on top of the other, and roll out to a 1" high square. Cut the square in half a second time, place one half on top of the other and then roll out to 1" high rectangle. Trim the edges of the dough and cut into 12 biscuits using a sharp knife. Do not re-roll out any of the scraps.
8. Transfer the cut biscuits to the baking sheet, leaving at least one inch between each of the biscuits. Place the tray of biscuits in the freezer for 10 minutes.
9. Remove from the freezer, and brush melted butter on the top of each biscuit. Alternately brush the tops of the biscuits with an egg wash made with one egg yolk and one Tablespoon of heavy cream.
10. Place the baking pan in the oven and IMMEDIATELY reduce the oven temperature down to 400 degrees (F).
11. Bake until the tops of the biscuits are deeply golden brown on the bottom, approximately 20-25 minutes.
12. Serve warm. Get ready to be transported to biscuit heaven.

Notes: (1) Make certain your baking powder is fresh. Check the freshness or expiration date before using. (2) I used a scale when I measured out the flour using a 125 g to 1 cup ratio. (3) The biscuits are best enjoyed on the day they are made. You can store them in a plastic bag and reheat them the next day. They will still be good but the texture may not be the same as the day they were made. (4) I have made these biscuits using both White Lily and Gold Medal Unbleached All-Purpose flour. Both flours worked, but the texture of the biscuits made with White Lily Flour was slightly flakier and lighter.