Monday, September 8, 2014

Roasted Eggplant Parmesan



There are so many different words I could use to describe our girls weekend trip to Lake Geneva, it would be impossible to choose just one. Perfect. Fun. Memorable. Not even having a state trooper ask us what we didn't understand about a police barricade and the solid white line on the highway could spoil it. 

In addition to coming home with photographs, memories and stories, I also managed to come home with a few treasures (Honestly I can't remember the last time I went on a trip where I didn't come home with a treasure or two). Dangerous might also be a word to describe this trip. My weekend finds included some (real) deer antlers, a large galvanized metal tray (perfect backdrop for blog photos), and some vintage silverware. Like all of the other treasures I found on past trips over the years, these too are destined to be reminders of time spent with friends, each one having a story associated it. The day I cannot remember when or where I bought the things I have acquired over the years will be a day when I need to start worrying about my memory. Thankfully and fortunately my memory (for all odd pieces of information) remains intact. Who knew buying things could be a strategy for strengthening one's memory?


Included in the adventures of the weekend was a stop at the farmer's market. There were piles of freshly harvested pumpkins, but the size and quantity of the other purchases was going to make bringing some pumpkins home impossible. But not all was lost. The eggplant at the market was too beautiful to resist and there would be room in the car for them (of course, I just had to buy some). 


Having made more than my fair share of ratatouille these past few weeks, it was time to use the eggplant differently. Specifically in a new, different eggplant parmesan recipe. One using Mario Batali's technique and version as the inspiration. Rather than coating thin slices of eggplant in an egg, flour and bread crumbs, then frying in olive oil, Batali shows respect for and enhances the eggplant's rich, complex flavor by first roasting rather than frying it. Brilliant! Why had I not known this before? My lame excuse is that my ethnic heritage does not include even a teeny tiny amount of Italian. The roasting process creates a depth of flavor giving the eggplant parmesan a flavor more decadent as well as more delicious than the fried version.


To cut the eggplant lengthwise or crosswise, that was the first question. Traditionally most think of cutting the eggplant into rounds rather than planks when making eggplant parmesan. However, for dishes where the eggplant is layered, cutting it lengthwise allows its fleshly surface to take on more color and flavor. Considering this eggplant parmesan was going to be all about flavor, lengthwise slices it would be. To cut thickly or thinly, that was the next question. Because eggplant is known for losing some of its' moisture and volume when roasted, thicker slices (at least 1/4 inch thick) would ensure the finished dish would be one where the meatiness of the eggplant would not be lost. (Note: In updating this post the eggplant was inadvertently cut vertically. But heed the advice of cutting it horizontally.)


Layering the sliced eggplant in a deep bowl or colander (sprinkling each layer with coarse salt) and allowing it to sit to thirty minutes helps to drain out any excess water (no one wants a watery eggplant parmesan) as well as aids in removing the bitter taste from the eggplant. After thirty minutes, each eggplant slice is dried with a paper towel before being dredged in flour. Whatever you do, do not rinse the 'sweat' from the eggplant. Not only does the salt add flavor, it helps the eggplant absorb some of the liquid of the 'sauce', further reducing any chance for a 'watery' eggplant parmesan.

Each of the baking sheets are coated somewhat generously with extra-virgin olive oil. I didn't measure it out so I can't be specific. A thin coating of olive oil won't be enough as the eggplant's absorbency powers are incredible. The eggplant shouldn't be swimming in olive oil, but there needs to be enough to help 'sauté' it while it roasts in a preheated 450 degree oven. Additionally, the top of each eggplant slice is drizzled/brushed with extra-virgin olive oil.


The total roasting time for the eggplant is thirty (30) minutes, fifteen (15) minutes per side. Having the eggplant slices cut to a consistent thickness (again, at least 1/4 inch) will ensure they cook evenly (a lesson learned in the roasting process). Would strongly suggest you check on the eggplant slices midway through the second 15 minutes of roasting time just to be certain you don't ruin/dry out/burn any of the slices.


I absolutely love a marinara sauce having a detectable garlic flavor. Lidia Batianiach's salsa marinara aka marinara sauce is one of my favorites, however, for this eggplant parmesan recipe I made several changes to her recipe. No, I didn't back down on the amount of garlic used, but did cut the peeled cloves into thin slices rather than crushing and chopping them. Instead of using two teaspoons of course salt I used only one as there was already going be enough salt in the finished dish (remember the eggplant slices were salted while they were sweating for 30 minutes). Lastly, rather than use two 28 ounce cans of crushed San Marzano tomatoes, I used one 28 ounce can of crushed and one 28 ounce can of diced San Marzano tomatoes. I actually loved the taste and consistency of the finished sauce so much, I am thinking of making these changes permanent ones.


The sauce simmers while the the eggplant roasts. At a minimum the sauce should simmer for 30 minutes, but increasing the simmer time to 40 to 45 minutes helps to create a richer, less 'watery' sauce.


Call me a cheese snob but there is a world of difference between the taste of freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano and all other forms of grated domestic or international parmesan cheeses. It's sharp, slightly complex nutty flavor adds just the right amount of savoriness to the eggplant parmesan. The difference in cost between Parmigiano-Reggiano and all other parmesan cheeses is insignificant compared to the difference in taste each brings to this dish.


The layering process begins with a thin layer of sauce on the bottom of the pan followed by a layer of roasted eggplant, grated Parmigiano-Reggiano, and then another thin layer of sauce. After two sequences of this layering process, there is a single layer fresh mozzarella, sliced (not grated). Yes, fresh mozzarella. There are two more sauce/eggplant/cheese/sauce layers creating a total of 5 distinct layers. Before placing in a preheated 400 degree (F) oven, the eggplant parmesan is sprinkled with even more grated Parmigiano-Reggiano.


The eggplant parmesan bakes for 40 to 45 minutes or until the top is lightly browned. If your eggplant had not fully sweated or your sauce was too thin, you may find the eggplant parmesan will ooze some liquid. If that happens, all is not lost, simply press down on the eggplant and spoon off any excess liquid. Would recommend checking your eggplant parmesan halfway through the baking process to check on it and to prevent it from turning 'watery'.

As hard as it may be to wait, allow the eggplant parmesan to rest for at least 15 to 20 minutes before serving. Your patience will be rewarded.

With all seriousness, I will never go back to frying or to thinly cutting the eggplant again when making eggplant parmesan. The difference in the cooking process, in the texture, in the taste, and in the flavor of a roasted eggplant parmesan is significant. Every now and then a different version of a recipe comes along that gives our 'traditional, tried and true' ones a run for their money, forcing us to choose between staying with what we know or moving on to something new. Yes, I know, change can be hard, particularly around 'recipes' as it moves us out of our comfort zones and makes us feel like we are being disloyal to a memory. But like the change in season from summer to fall, life is all about change. It just so happens this Roasted Eggplant Parmesan recipe is a game changer!
Recipe
Roasted Eggplant Parmesan (inspired by the recipes and cooking techniques of Mario Batali and Lidia Bastinach)
Post updated October 2020

Ingredients
Marinara
1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil
14-16 cloves of garlic, thinly sliced
1 (28 ounce) can San Marzano crushed tomatoes
1 (28 ounce) can San Marzano diced tomatoes
2 -3 Tablespoons granulated sugar (strongly recommend using 3 Tablespoons)
1 teaspoon Kosher salt (if making the marinara for another use, use 2 teaspoons of Kosher salt)
1/2 teaspoon Aleppo pepper
10-12 fresh basil leaves, sliced into slivers

Eggplant
5 to 6 medium sized eggplants (choose male eggplants as they have the least amount of seeds)
Kosher salt
1 generous cup (140g) all-purpose flour
Extra-virgin olive oil
2 generous cups grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese
1 to 1 1/2 pounds fresh mozzarella, sliced into 1/4 inch slices (more cheese is better)

Directions
Marinara
1. Heat extra virgin olive oil in a heavy deep saucepan. Add garlic slices and cook until lightly browned.
2. Add crushed and diced tomatoes. Bring mixture to a boil.
3. Reduce heat to a simmer and add salt, Aleppo pepper, and sugar. Cook for at least 20 minutes (but up to 40 minutes) until sauce has slightly thickened.
4. Add slivered basil to sauce in last five minutes of simmering.
Note: Make sauce while eggplant is sweating and roasting.

Eggplant
1. Peel and slice eggplant into at least 1/4 inch slices.
2. In a large bowl or colander, create and lightly salt layers of the eggplant slices. Place a plate on top of eggplant slices, weight down with a heavy pan or plate topped with cans. Allow the eggplant to sweat for thirty (30) minutes.
3. Remove eggplant slices, drying each one with a paper towel (do not rinse the eggplant).
4. Pour olive oil on the bottom of three to four baking sheets.
5. Dredge each slice of eggplant into the flour, shaking off any excess. Place each slice on the prepared baking sheet. When all slices have been placed on baking sheets, drizzle/brush more olive oil over each one.
6. In a preheated 450 degree (F) oven, bake eggplant until it has browned on each side (approximately 15 minutes per side). At the first 15 minute mark, turn eggplant over so it becomes evenly browned and cooked.
7. In a 9" x 12" baking dish, begin by spreading a thin layer of marinara on bottom. Top with a layer of eggplant working to completely cover bottom of the pan. Sprinkle eggplant with some grated Parmigano-Reggiano cheese and then another thin layer of marinara. Repeat layering again.
8. After second layer, add a single layer of fresh (sliced) mozzarella. Continue with two more layers of marinara/eggplant/cheese/marinara. Finish top with a final layer of mozzarella and then sprinkle with Parmigano-Reggiano cheese.
9. Reduce oven temperature to 400 degrees. Place baking dish on a baking sheet and bake for 40 to 45 minutes or until top has browned. Note: Check halfway through the baking process to check to see if it is oozing liquid. If this happens, press down on casserole lightly and spoon off any liquid.
10. Let stand 15 to 20 minutes before serving.

Notes: (1) You can make the marinara sauce at least one day ahead. Keep refrigerated. (2) You can assemble the eggplant parmesan early in the day, cover, and chill in the refrigerator. Then bake later in the day. (3) Alternately you can wrap the eggplant parmesan and freeze for later. Be certain to wrap it well with both plastic wrap and aluminum foil. When ready to bake, take out the frozen dish and place in the refrigerator overnight. Then when ready to bake put chilled dish in the oven before turning on the temperature.


As we were driving on two lane highways around Lake Geneva the landscape was dominated by farms. For some unknown reason I have always found these landscapes compelling. Not in the same way I find mountain and ocean views compelling, but in a very different way. When I see farms I cannot help but think of how much we depend (but don't always appreciate) on those that dedicate their lives to and make their livelihood off the land. Buying from roadside farmstands and farmer's markets has become my way of helping to support and sustain these small farms. I have also come to believe fruits and vegetables grown on those family and small farms are the most beautiful and have the best flavor. While I attributed the deliciousness of the roasted eggplant parmesan to the cooking technique of Mario Batali, I probably should be giving the most credit to the farmer who grew the eggplant. Great dishes always begin with great ingredients. And who doesn't want to make great?

Wednesday, September 3, 2014

Applesauce Spice Cake with Cinnamon Cream Cheese Frosting


In a couple of weeks I will be headed out east for a relatively short 'get my fix' of the ocean and all things east coast. My list of everything I want to do while I am out there is getting longer by the day. In addition to a trip to the Vineyard, up to Maine for some antiquing and a lobster roll (seriously no other lobster rolls compare to the ones in Maine), getting in at least one beach day (weather cooperating), as well as spending time with friends, squeezing in some time to pick a few apples in the orchard in the town I had lived in is also one of the must do things. While it will technically not yet be fall during this trip, in my world the first day of September is considered to be the first day of fall. A necessary mind game to extend the season where both summer and winter intrude and invariably seem to shorten the most beautiful season of all.


The arrival of autumn brings the anticipation of cool crisp days and nights, caramel apples, fires in the fireplace, and landscapes magically transformed with various shades of yellow, orange and red. Next to the bright yellow aspens set against the deep blue Colorado sky, the vivid colors of the trees out east are some of the most 'enough to take your breath away, make you want to cry' stunningly beautiful I have ever seen. The most memorable of all fall east coast landscapes experienced were in the Berkshires and the Hudson Valley last year, both places that would be worth enduring the harsh, cold, snowy winters just to be able to take in the best of what autumn brings. 


There are two things I don't think I will ever tire of: photographing autumn landscapes and making apple desserts. From apple crisps, to apple pies, to apple cake, to baked apples, and now to this applesauce spice cake, the days of cooler temperatures, no humidity and an abundance of apples cannot get here soon enough. 

I have been looking for a spice cake recipe for quite some time now, never quite finding one that 'spoke' to me. But then I came across the applesauce spice cake recipe and before even tasting it, I somehow knew my search was finally and thankfully over. A simple cake made with unsweetened applesauce, flavored with cinnamon, ginger and cloves, and topped with a cinnamon cream cheese frosting was akin to finding the pot of gold at the end of the rainbow. I was trying to wait for a slightly cooler day to make this cake, but my impatience got the best of me (it usually does). The applesauce spice cake with cinnamon cream cheese frosting turned out to be falling into the 'life is too short to wait' category.


Toasted walnuts may be optional for some, but are generally a non-negotiable ingredient for me. Not only do they add some texture and crunch, they add an incredible depth of flavor as well as bring out their delicious oils. In a preheated 350 degree oven, walnuts are transformed after 10 to 12 minutes. Whatever you do, don't think of toasting nuts as an extra step, think of it as an absolutely necessary one.


Whenever a recipe calls for a nine inch round or square pan, I immediately think 'springform' pan. Besides being much easier to remove and serve, an unmolded cake on a platter or cake stand seems to increase its' deliciousness factor tenfold. 


Baked only for 40 to 45 minutes, the applesauce spice cake ends up being perfectly moist. Waiting for it to cool before it is can be frosted will only seem like an eternity.

Another confession. I have never worked with marzipan before. My hypotheses of 'it is 'too' difficult and 'sort of' unnecessary' turned out to proven wrong. Once I figured out how to remove the marzipan from the antique cutter that is. Had I not started out making something simple with marzipan, I may have found the necessary proof that I was actually right all along (sometimes it is good to be wrong about something). If there was ever a reason to remember how to create varying colors from our elementary school art classes, this would be one of them. My marzipan leaves didn't exactly come out 'perfect' (or I should say look like they were made by either Martha Stewart or someone with years of marzipan experience), but I rather liked how 'rustic and authentic' they looked (sometimes imperfection can be better than perfection). 


The cream cheese frosting has a slight hint of cinnamon flavor. Initially I thought the addition of cinnamon was unnecessary. Let's just say I thought wrong and we will leave it at that.


The amount of frosting on this cake is just right.


Although I am not one to commit recipes to memory (too many other things I would rather remember), I have a feeling I will be making this applesauce spice cake with cinnamon cream cheese frosting so often it will become one of those recipes I could make in my sleep. This is one of those cakes made for welcoming in and celebrating the fall. Dense, moist, and just the right amount of spice, it may just be the perfect spice cake.

Already I am trying to figure out how to 'bring' this cake with me when I travel out east. The list of things I want to bring on this trip not surprisingly seems to be getting longer too. Oh well, traveling is an adventure.

Recipe
Applesauce Spice Cake with Cinnamon Cream Cheese Frosting (slight adaptation to Spice Applesauce Cake shared in Gourmet, 2009)

Ingredients
Cake
2 cups all-purpose flour
2 teaspoons baking powder
1/2 teaspoon baking soda
1/2 teaspoon kosher salt
3/4 teaspoon Saigon cinnamon
1/2 teaspoon ground ginger
1/8 teaspoon ground cloves
1/2 cup (1 stick) unsalted butter, room temperature
1 cup light brown sugar, firmly packed
1 teaspoon vanilla
2 large eggs, room temperature
1 1/2 cups unsweetened applesauce
1/2 cup walnuts, toasted and coarsely chopped (optional but highly recommended)

Frosting
8 ounces cream cheese, room temperature
1/2 cup (1 stick) unsalted butter, room temperature
1 1/4 cups confectionary sugar, sifted
1 teaspoon vanilla
1/4 teaspoon Saigon cinnamon

Optional
Marzipan leaves

Directions
1. Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Line a 9 inch springform pan with parchment paper, set aside.
2. Sift together the flour, baking soda, baking powder, salt, cinnamon, ginger and cloves. Set aside.
3. In a standing mixer fitted with a paddle blade, beat butter, brown sugar and vanilla until pale and fluffy (approximately 2-3 minutes).
4. Add eggs in one at a time, beating well after each addition.
5. Beat in applesauce and vanilla.
6. At low speed, gradually mix in flour mixture until fully incorporated.
7. Stir in nuts.
8. Scrape batter into prepared springform pan and bake for 40 to 45 minutes or until pick inserted in center of the cake comes out clean. Allow to cool 15 minutes, run knife around edge of pan to loosen cake, and transfer to plate or platter. Bring cake to room temperature before frosting.
9. For frosting, beat butter and cream cheese in a standing mixer fitted with a paddle blade until smooth. Mix in vanilla and cinnamon. Slowly add sifted confectionary sugar and continue beating until fully incorporated. (Note: This is enough frosting for the top and sides of cake.)
10. Optional: Decorate top of frosted cake with colored marzipan leaves.
Note: Store any leftover cake in the refrigerator. 


Just minutes into the first day of September one of my friends, who also happened to be my doctoral dissertation chair, posted the following on her Facebook page: rabbit, rabbit. My first thought was 'what?'. While she just recently moved into a new home in Colorado, she couldn't possibly be seeing rabbits running around in the dark, or could she? Well maybe she could, but knowing her, there was something meaningful intended by these two words. But what was it? Thank goodness for search engines and the internet as I pretty sure I discovered why she posted those two words, words that take on significance when spoken on the first day of the new month. Or at least there is a pretty powerful superstition associated with them.

If 'rabbit, rabbit' are the first words uttered on the first day of the month, they are thought to bring you (good) luck all month long. They are, in fact, supposed to be the harbinger of good fortune. Rabbits have long been associated with luck of one sort or another (but usually good luck) for more than 2,000 years. But the widespread superstitiousness surrounding rabbits (like a rabbit's foot) emerged sometime in the early 1900s. Not only did President Franklin Delano Roosevelt carry a rabbit's foot, his first spoken words on the first day of the first month were 'rabbit, rabbit'.

If there is any truth around the expression 'an apple a day keeps the doctor away', who knows, there might even be truth around the 'rabbit, rabbit' as the first words spoken on the first day of every month superstition.

Friday, August 29, 2014

Blueberry Buckle with Whipped Coconut Cream


With Labor Day just a few days away, summer comes to an unofficial 'say it isn't so' end. What better way to enjoy the upcoming long weekend than to squeeze in time for a road trip, a long bike ride, a barbecue, sitting out in the backyard soaking in the sun, or if you are lucky enough to live near the ocean, breathing in and listening to the smell and sound of the water. This is definitely not a weekend of doing anything mundane or sitting around doing too much of nothing. There is always enough time to get the most essential of chores done, even if it means a little bit of sleep deprivation.


On Wednesday I couldn't help but notice the changes at the Farmer's market. Tables once dominated primarily by berries have been replaced by tables now filled with concord grapes, apples, pears, plums, and thankfully, still some berries. It won't be long now before there will not be a berry in sight. With that thought in mind I bought a five pound box of Michigan blueberries. Some to use in the making of the rustic Blueberry Buckle and the rest to freeze. Being able to bake with frozen berries as a way of taking the chill off of that first really crisp, chilly fall day, that the first fire in the fireplace kind of day, or on one of those 'if don't have to leave the house don't' kind of days in the winter are why one needs to have berries in the freezer. Already the forecast for the winter in the midwest is higher than average snow accumulations. In hindsight, maybe I should have bought ten pounds of blueberries.


How many desserts or breakfast foods can one make with blueberries without being considered some sort of blueberry savant? Well certainly more than the number of recipes I have posted on the blog this past year (although some of you may have thought 'enough with the blueberries already'). There is something both visually appealing and incredibly addictive about eating and baking with one of the few 'blue' foods found in nature.


When you think of comfort food, think of Blueberry Buckle.Whether you are having guests or are a guest at the home of one of your friends over the long Labor Day weekend, a Blueberry Buckle might just be one of those perfect breakfast foods, desserts or hostess gifts. Dense with blueberries you will find yourself wanting to nosh on any buckle leftovers throughout the course of the day as well as hoping there is at least one piece left to go with with an end of the day cup of coffee. Without being too sweet, it more than satisfies a sweet tooth. 


I have found that whenever I take out the butter and eggs needed for a recipe the night before, they not only become room temperature perfect but I feel compelled to make whatever it is I went to bed thinking I was going to make in the morning. Because if there is anything I hate going to waste more than chocolate it is butter and eggs, especially when the eggs are the fresh from the farm ones. With the exception of fresh blueberries the ingredients for the batter are things one usually has in the cupboard or refrigerator. However, if you always have some frozen blueberries in your freezer the buckle would fall into the category of 'there is no excuse for not making'.


In addition to the batter, the buckle has one of those easy to come together streusel toppings. The kind that adds just another layer of flavor and a little bit of crunch. One of the streusel ingredients is brown sugar. I generally prefer to use a mixture of both light and dark brown sugars whenever a recipe calls for brown sugar (a 2 to 1 light to dark brown ratio was used for this streusel topping). If you haven't yet tried using both light and dark brown sugars before, the streusel topping could be a great place to start.


The batter for the buckle is so thick you might think it nearly impossible to stir in 3 1/2 cups of blueberries without crushing or having them bleed into the batter. With some gentle stirring you can turn the perceived impossible to actual possible.


The original Cook's Illustrated recipe called for mixing all 4 cups of the blueberries into the batter, however, sprinkling a reserved 1/2 cup on top of the batter gives the finished buckle a more beautiful baked finish.


The buckle is baked in a preheated 350 degree oven for 50 to 60 minutes or until a toothpick inserted in the center comes out clean.


The aroma permeating the air while the buckle is baking will wake up even the heaviest of sleepers. Make sure you have a plan to keep everyone at bay while the buckle cools long enough for it to be successfully removed from the springform pan. The buckle can be served warm although its' deliciousness does not diminish at all when served at room temperature.


For a change of pace from lightly sweetened whipped cream, consider making a whipped coconut cream. Both are easy to make and you can't go wrong with either of them. I first learned about coconut whipped cream from one of food blogger Lauren Kodiak's postings. However, the best visual and written step by step tutorial on how to make the whipped coconut cream has been posted by blogger Oh She Glows

If you bring this sinfully good Blueberry Buckle as a hostess gift I can almost guarantee you will be invited back. Unless, of course, you are one of those high maintenance guests where nothing you might bring to the table, both literally and figuratively, would be enough to get you a return invitation. 

Recipe
Blueberry Buckle with Whipped Coconut Cream (Blueberry Buckle recipe an adaption of Cook's Illustrated July/August 2005 recipe; Whipped Coconut Cream as shared by food blogger Lauren Kodiak)

Ingredients
Buckle
1 1/2 cups all-purpose flour
1 1/2 teaspoons baking powder
1/2 teaspoon coarse (kosher) salt
1/2 teaspoon cinnamon
10 Tablespoons unsalted butter, room temperature
2/3 cup granulated sugar
Zest from one lemon
1 1/2 teaspoons vanilla
2 large eggs, room temperature
4 cups fresh or frozen blueberries, divided (Note: If using frozen blueberries, baking time may be slightly longer.)

Streusel
1/2 cup all-purpose flour
1/2 cup brown sugar packed (light brown sugar or a combination of light and dark brown sugars)
2 Tablespoons granulated sugar
1/2 teaspoon cinnamon
pinch of nutmeg
3/4 teaspoon salt
4 Tablespoons unsalted butter, room temperature

Whipped Coconut Cream
1 13.5 ounce can of full-fat coconut milk
1 Tablespoon pure cane, superfine sugar or confectionary sugar
1 teaspoon vanilla

Directions
Buckle and Streusel
1. Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Line a 9 inch springform pan with parchment paper. Set aside.
2. Sift together flour, baking powder, salt and cinnamon. Set aside.
3. In a standing mixer fitted with a paddle attachment, cream butter, sugar, and lemon zest until light and fluffy.
4. Add in eggs one at a time, mixing each until well blended.
5. Blend in vanilla.
6. With mixer speed on low, slowly add in flour mixture and mix just until fully incorporated.
7. Using a spatula, very gently stir in 3 1/2 cups of the blueberries.
8. Scrape the filling into prepared pan and smooth top with an off-set spatula.
9. Sprinkle remaining 1/2 cup of blueberries on top of the batter.
10. For the streusel, begin by stirring together the flour, brown sugar(s), granulated sugar, salt, cinnamon, and pinch of nutmeg. Using a pastry cutter, fork or your fingers, blend in butter until the mixture is crumbly and sand-like in texture.
11. Sprinkle streusel over batter and blueberries.
12. Bake for 50 to 60 minutes or until a toothpick inserted in the center of the cake comes out clean.
13. Remove from oven and allow to cool before removing from pan.
14. Serve with whipped coconut cream or lightly sweetened whipped cream.

Whipped Coconut Cream
1. Place can of coconut cream in the refrigerator overnight.
2. Flip can upside down and open from bottom. Pour out liquid at the top of the can and scoop out remaining hardened 'cream' underneath.
3. Place 'cream' in a chilled bowl on standing mixer and whip with whisk attachment. When smooth, add sugar gradually followed by the vanilla.
4. Whip until fluffy. 
5. Serve immediately and/or store in the refrigerator until ready to use.

Note: Once cooled to room temperature, a slice of the blueberry buckle can be warmed in the microwave and served with some whipped coconut cream or slightly sweetened whipped cream if you want that hot out of the oven taste experience. Otherwise enjoy the buckle at room temperature.


Sunday, August 24, 2014

Ratatouille Crostini


Walking through the aisles of the farmer's market these days is like walking through the best candy store in the world (which for me would be Dylan's Candy Bar in NYC). With so many vegetables now at peak season it is nothing short of a heart racing, head spinning, wide-eyed, weak in the knees, can't decide what to choose experience.

When vegetables are prepared in ways bringing out their sweetness they become transformed into nature's most irresistible of all 'candies'. And anyone with food preferences leaning closer to the carnivore end of the food continuum might easily be persuaded to shift toward the vegetarian end, with the operative word being 'might', when vegetables are prepared in a way that seduces you.


Albert Einstein once wrote 'Everything is determined by forces over which we no control. It is determined for the insect as well as for the star. Human beings, vegetables, or cosmic dust-we all dance to a mysterious tune, intoned in the distance by an invisible piper.' The richness of a ratatouille served on a grilled slice of a baguette lightly brushed with olive oil along with a schmear of homemade ricotta will have you dancing. The savoriness of tomatoes, red bell peppers, onions, zucchini, eggplant and garlic slowly caramelized and seasoned with only coarse salt, herbs de Provence and sherry vinegar pays homage to summer's bounty. Borrowing from philosopher Aristotle a well-made ratatouille can simply be described as a dish whose 'whole is greater than the sum of its parts'.

Ratatouille is a humble, elegant, sophisticated, traditional Provencal dish using vegetables at the height of their ripeness. Culinary credit for the creation of ratatouille is attributed to 18th century peasants living and working the land in present day Nice, France. Variations to the vegetables used as well as in the ways in which they are prepared (ranging from perfect thinly sliced vegetables artfully arranged in a casserole to chunks of vegetables simply served in a dish) have occurred over the years. Early forms of ratatouille were made with tomatoes, onions and bell peppers, however, the number of vegetables in this dish have increased to include zucchini and eggplant. The marriage of all of the vegetables is pure bliss.


After listening to one of my friend's husband sing the praises of Shun knives I decided I would buy one of them. To make the dicing of the onion, red bell pepper, zucchini, roma tomatoes and eggplant easier, I decided to use my Shun knife. Several Band-Aids later, I had perfectly diced vegetables. The cuts to my fingers weren't serious, only visible reminders of how incredibly sharp this knife is. Still retaining some of my competitiveness, this knife may have won this round. But with all of this dicing experience in the preparation of the ratatouille I am pretty confident the knife's winning days are over.


What matters just as much as using the freshest vegetables you can find is the pot you use to make the ratatouille. In order to ensure the vegetables cook slowly without browning, a large heavy pot is needed. If you have not yet invested in a large cast iron enamel pot, I want you to know it will be one of the worthiest investments you make (and one without having the ability to cause you bodily harm). Buy one at full-price or on sale, look for them at estate or tag sales, or put them on the top of your birthday or Christmas wish list. I promise you will not only find it to be incredibly versatile, it will help to create an amazing, can't stop eating ratatouille.

The flavors of the ratatouille is further elevated (if that is really possible) when it is allowed to marinate overnight in the refrigerator. To serve at room temperature, allow the dish to sit out at least one hour before serving. Or if you want to serve the ratatouille warm, you can reheat on a low power setting in the microwave or low heat on the stove. 

Last week I thought a perfect meal starter would be a platter of Marinated Buffalo Mozzarella and Tomato Salad, this week I am thinking it's a Ratatouille Crostini. Served warm or at room temperature along with some homemade ricotta or softened goat cheese and a glass of chilled white wine, it may become your signature summer's bounty signature dish. Even the carnivores sitting around the table won't be in any hurry for the 'meat' dish to be served. 

Recipe
Ratatouille Crostini (ever so slight adaptation of Buvette's recipe for Ratatouille)

Ingredients
1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil
1 small sweet or yellow onion, peeled and finely diced
3 plum tomatoes, 1/2 inch dice
1 red or orange bell pepper, stemmed, seeded, cut into 1/2 inch dice
2-3 garlic cloves, minced
1 large or 2 small eggplants, peeled, cut into 1/2 inch dice
1 zucchini, ends trimmed, cut into 1/2 inch dice (do not peel)
Pinch of Aleppo pepper (or can use red chili flakes)
1 teaspoon herbes de Provence
2 teaspoons sherry vinegar
Kosher salt
Baguette, lightly brushed with extra-virgin oil then grilled
Homemade ricotta or softened goat cheese

Directions
1. Pour extra-virgin olive oil into large, heavy pot. Turn heat on to medium.
2. Add onion, tomatoes, bell pepper, garlic and pinch of kosher salt. Cook, stirring occasionally until vegetables begin to soften (approximately 10 minutes). Note: Heat should be high enough to keep vegetables cooking, but not so high as they begin to brown. They should be sweating.
3. Add eggplant and another pinch of kosher salt. Cook until eggplant begins to soften (approximately 10 minutes).
4. Add zucchini, pinch of Aleppo pepper and herbes de Provence. Stir and cook for 15 minutes or until all vegetables are wonderfully soft. Note: If mixture is looking a little dry and/or sticking, add another tablespoon of extra-virgin olive oil while cooking.
5. Stir in sherry vinegar and season with additional salt, if needed.
6. Serve warm, at room temperature or chilled. 
Serving suggestions: Serve with a sliced baguette brushed lightly with olive oil and grilled along with either homemade ricotta or softened goat cheese; Serve with a poached egg over warmed ratatouille; Serve with a fresh baguette along with either homemade ricotta or softened goat cheese; Use as a filling for a sandwich and/or omelette.

At dinner with friends this week, I was surprised to learn one of them had raised a couple of sheep. Some mothers get involved with their children's science projects and others become completely invested in their 4-H projects. This friend was the second kind of mother. She had us laughing as she described milking them, feeding them, bringing them to fairs for showings, having them sheered, and helping them deliver their babies. My living on a working farm fantasies always included having some hands-on animal experiences, but they never included helping to deliver their babies. Needless to say I was in awe of my friend's fearlessness and bravery.

As she shared her stories two thoughts immediately came to mind. The first was 'I would do (almost) anything short of milking sheep myself to get some fresh sheep's milk to make homemade ricotta'. The second was remembering my childhood best friend's visit last year when I lived in the farmhouse on the east coast. Early one morning as we went over to see some of the animals being raised by one of my neighbors, she said 'look at those goats'. Only they weren't goats, they were black faced sheep. Needless to say I am thankful we have been friends for such a long time because I couldn't stop laughing. That memory along with the photos taken that day not only continue to make me laugh, it reaffirms my belief that an enduring, great friendship is always made better when it continues to be filled with memories.