RECIPE INDEX & RESOURCES

Monday, June 27, 2016

Lasagna Bolognese


Let me begin with a kinda, sorta forewarning about one of the most blissfully delicious, soul satisfying, decadent lasagnas on the planet, one you will fall hopelessly, deeply in love with in the first bite. This Lasagna Bolognese is an ambitious labor of love. Suffice to say this is a dish you should make only for the family and friends in your life that you really, really, really, really like. More specifically, for those in your life who, while sitting at your dinner table, unabashedly express their euphoria moments after their taste buds go into overdrive. Definitely do not make this dish for the kind, for whatever reason or reasons, have the uncanny ability to refrain from sharing or showing the joy their taste buds are experiencing, begin critiquing the dish ('did you put too much garlic in?') or who get all effusive about a lasagna they had elsewhere. Because if there was ever a Lasagna Bolognese to share with your most favorite people in the universe, one where you (or they) wouldn't care if the world or life as you know it ended tomorrow, this would be the one. 


I know what you may be thinking "we all don't experience the tastes of things the same way so maybe not everyone will be doing backflips and handstands at the table". To a certain extent I might concede to the possibility there is some truth to that belief. Except for the well documented fact there are some foods and dishes so incredible in taste and texture they transcend all of our individual unique food experiences and preferences. Generically speaking, pizza, ice cream and bread, are amongst the foods with the most universal appeal. While lasagna may be one of those dishes where our love or ambivalence for them is due in large part to the kinds of lasagna we grew up eating, this Lasagna Bolognese is a game-changer. For those brave enough to willing admit their Lasagna rating bar was set against frozen lasagna dinners or ones made with commercially sold jarred sauces, they won't be able to keep their heads from spinning after tasting this Lasagna Bolognese. 


This Lasagna Bolognese is made with a veal and pork ragu simmered to perfection, a white bechamel sauce ever so lightly seasoned with salt and a hint of grated nutmeg, freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese, and sheets of fresh lasagna noodles (no you don't have to make your own pasta if you don't want to as you can find some really high quality fresh pasta in the refrigerated section of many grocery stores). To make the process of making this Lasagna Bolognese seem less labor intensive you can make the Bolognese Ragu a day ahead (cover and chill in the refrigerator). Rather than trying to the 'hostess with mostest" after an exhaustive day of cooking, make and assemble the entire Lasagna Bolognese the day before (cover and chill in the refrigerator). Not only will enjoy your dinner gathering as much as everyone else, you also give the flavors of the ragu some time to further develop. In other words, if you pace yourself the feelings of love will overshadow the labor.


Finely diced carrots, celery and onion (along with thinly sliced garlic) starts out as an Italian Buttato and transforms into a Soffritto when sautéed in extra-virgin olive oil. This cousin to France's mirepoix become the flavor base for the ragu. Key to the soffrito is three-fold: finely diced uniform pieces of vegetables; using a large heavy bottomed pan; and, sautéeing just until they have softened and translucent but not browned.


The second layer of richness comes from the ground pork, ground veal, and pancetta. Before adding the meats to the pan, temporarily transfer the Soffritto to a bowl, to enable them to brown.


After the meats are browned and the Soffritto returned to the pan, add the tomato paste, milk, wine, and thyme bundle are stirred in and brought just to a boil, the heat is reduced to a simmer. The ragu should be allowed to simmer for 1 1/2 to 2 hours, however, the longer you simmer the deeper its' flavor. If your mixture seems to become 'too' thick, add in a little water (I added about a cup of water after about an hour). Season with salt and pepper, remove the thyme bundle, and allow to cool before assembling the lasagna.


The more classic Northern Italian lasagnas are made with a bechamel (besciamella in Italian) sauce, versus ricotta cheese found in other versions of the recipe. Considered to be one of the simplest of the Italian sauces and one of the five 'mother' sauces in French cooking, the bechamel sauce adds flavor and creaminess to this Lasagna Bolognese along with helping to keep the pasta from drying out. The key to making this sauce is making sure the butter/flour roux is a light golden brown before slowly adding in the milk. Patience is key here. In about 15-20 minutes you will have created a smooth, creamy, thickened (but spreadable) bechamel sauce.

Call me a cheese snob (I have been called worse), but nothing compares to the nutty, complex flavor of Parmigiano-Reggiano. Nothing. So don't even think of using any else.

Now here's the point in the recipe where I made a substitution. I (gasp) used 'fresh' but not 'homemade' pasta sheets. While the 'fresh' pasta found in the refrigerated section (not to be confused with those in the box 'no boil' pasta sheets), they are next best thing to homemade pasta. You can certainly make your pasta for this Lasagna Bolognese, but you can't those slippery curly edged lasagna noodles cooked in boiling water. Really you can't. 


To assemble this epic pasta dish, begin with a layer of the ragu, a sprinkling of the grated Parmigiano-Reggiano, a layer of pasta, a layer of bechemal, a layer of ragu, a sprinkling of the grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese....until all of the sauce and pasta are used up but ensuring the top layer is the pasta with the bechamel sauce over it. Before putting the Lasagna Bolognese in a preheated 375 degree (F) oven, generously finish with more grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese. Note: In a 9"x12" pan you will have 4 to 5 layers of pasta if using the fresh, refrigerated pasta sheets, but more layers if you use your own homemade pasta.  The Lasagna is baked for 30 to 45 minutes (longer if you had made it the night before) until the edges are browned and is cooked through. Allow it to set at least 15-20 minutes before cutting and serving. Then brace yourself for the most delicious meal of your life.


So how much do I love this Lasagna Bolognese? Almost as much as I love chocolate; puppies; the sound of a giggling baby; the deep rich colors of a beautiful sunset; the sound of the ocean; a bouquet of deep blue hydrangeas; the feel and smell of clean, hung out to dry in the fresh air sheets; a long, windows open drive out in the country; two-armed hugs; bringing a smile to the face of everyone sitting at my dining room table (handstands or backflips optional).......Your search for the most perfect, best, most mouthwatering lasagna is over. Buon appetito!

Recipe
Lasagna Bolognese (several adaptations to Mario Batali's Lasagna Bolognese recipe shared on The Food Network and in his cookbook Molto Italiano: 327 Simple Italian Recipes to Cook at Home)

NOTE: Recipe updated March 20, 2018

Ingredients
Bologonese Ragu (make about 6 cups)
1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil
2 medium onions, finely chopped
4 ribs of celery, finely chopped
2 medium carrots, finely chopped
5-6 cloves of garlic, thinly sliced
1 to 1 1/4 pounds ground veal
1 to 1 1/4 pounds ground pork
4 ounces pancetta (either run through a meat grinder or finely diced)
9 ounces tomato paste
1 1/4 cups whole milk
1 1/4 cups dry white wine
1 bundle of fresh thyme leaves (about 4-5 stems)
2 teaspoons kosher salt (or more to taste)
1 teaspoon black pepper
Water, if needed, during the cooking process

Bechamel Sauce
5 Tablespoons unsalted butter
4 Tablespoons all-purpose flour
3 cups whole milk
2 teaspoons Kosher salt
1/2 teaspoon pepper
1/2 teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg

Lasagna Assembly
2 (12-14 ounce) packages of fresh lasagna noodles (Note: Briefly (45-60 seconds) cook each of the pasta sheets in hot simmering water)
8-10 ounces Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese, grated

Directions
Bologonese Ragu
1. In the bottom of a large heavy bottomed pan, heat the olive oil over medium heat until hot. Add the onions, celery, carrots, and garlic and cook until the vegetables are translucent but not browned (about 5-7 minutes). Transfer to a bowl and set aside to cool slightly. Note: I often like to process these sauteed vegetables in a food processor for about a minute, ensuring the mixture does not turn to paste.
2. Increase the heat to high and the pancetta. Cook the pancetta until beginning to turn brown (approximately 4-5 minutes). Then add the pork and veal to the pan (stirring frequently). Cook until the meats have browned.
3. Add the tomato paste to the pan. Cook for approximately 4-5 minutes or until the tomato paste takes on a deeper red color. Return vegetables along with the milk, wine, and thyme bundle. Season lightly with salt and pepper. Bring just a boil, then reduce heat to low and simmer for 1 1/2 to 2 hours. Note: You may need to add some water midway through to keep the sauce's consistency.
4. Taste for seasoning. Add additional salt and pepper if needed. Remove from heat and allow to cool before assembling the lasagna.

Bechamel Sauce
1. Melt the butter in a heavy bottomed, medium sized saucepan over medium heat.
2. Add the flour into the butter and whisk into the butter until smooth. Continue to cook the mixture (whisking constantly) until the butter/flour roux turns a light golden brown (about 5-6 minutes).
3. Begin by adding about 1/4 cup of the milk whisking constantly into the butter/flour roux is again smooth. Then add the remaining milk in three to four (or even five) equal portions, whisking until the sauce begins to thicken after each addition. 
4. Add the grated nutmeg, salt and pepper and allow the bechamel sauce to simmer (on low heat) for about 8-10 minutes. Taste and adjust for season. 
5. Allow to cool slightly before assembling the lasagna.
Note: If you add the milk too quickly your bechamel may not properly thicken.

Lasagna Assembly
1. Preheat oven to 375 degrees (F).
2. In a deep dish 9"x12" or 9"x13" baking pan, begin with a layer of the ragu, a sprinkling of the grated Parmigiano-Reggiano, a layer of pasta, a layer of bechamel, a layer of ragu, a sprinkling of the grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese....until all of the sauce and pasta are used up but ensuring the top layer is finished with bechamel sauce.
3. Finish with a generous sprinkling of grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese.
4. Bake 30-45 minutes or until the edges have browned and the lasagna is cooked through. Note: Cooking time will be longer if the lasagna was prepared and refrigerated the day before cooking.
5. Allow to rest 15-20 minutes before serving.

Notes: (1) Assembling the entire dish the day before serving is a life-saver. Individual servings reheat beautifully in the oven or microwave for several days after it has been baked (if it lasts that long). (2) The lasagna can also be frozen. Allow to cool slightly before wrapping and placing in the refrigerator. When slightly chilled place in the freezer (wrapped well). Remove the lasagna from the freezer and allow to thaw before baking in the oven. (3) Recently I started to make more of the bolognese, increasing the recipe by half, so there is extra sauce to serve when plating the lasagna.


Two early morning summer views of Lake Marmo at Morton Arboretum in Lisle, Illinois