Spaghetti Alla Gricia

It has been thirty days since I have had a diet soda. Or rather almost a month since I removed the diet soda IV from my arm. Considering this beverage has been my primary form of morning, noon, and night liquid intake for decades, it is nothing short of a miracle I have had enough willpower to end this addiction. Weaning myself from this diet soda addiction was not an option (been there, done that). Cold turkey was the only painful choice. Needing an alternative source of hydration, I had no other choice than to turn to water. Over the course of the past several weeks my consumption of water has surpassed the amount of water passing my lips in a very, very long time. If I told you I drank more water in the last 30 days than I had since I was 18 years old you might think this a bit of an exaggeration, rather than a claim much closer to the truth. Just remember truth is almost always stranger than fiction. Had I not decided to fingers crossed finally eliminate diet soda from my life I may have never discovered the deliciousness and thirst quenching qualities of water. Who knew water could be so satisfying? Well certainly I didn't. Not surprisingly I have begun to develop an affinity for some of the European waters, although I am not ready to declare a commitment to any of the English, Swedish, French, or Italian waters I have been trying just yet. No reason to hurry or even make this decision as there is a lot of water drinking catching up to do. Besides I was a 'will drink only one kind of diet soda snob' for decades, so this time around I will forego becoming one of those 'will drink only one kind of water snobs'.

Speaking of water, we have heard over and over again never to throw away the (salted) pasta water before finishing a pasta dish. This Spaghetti Alla Gricia proved this to be true and was a perfect example of the sauciness value pasta water has to finishing off a pasta dish.

As much as I had promised myself to stop buying new cookbooks (another addiction), I was weak in the knees when I came across two new recently published Italian cookbooks: Tasting Rome: Fresh Flavors and Forgotten Recipes from an Ancient City and Florentine: The True Cuisine of Florence. In the event that I never get to either of these two cities, I can vicariously experience them both through the recipes, stories, and photographs in these two books. More than simply great inspirational cookbooks, they are gastronomic guides and visual tours of Rome and Florence.

Without going into a long story as to why I decided to first make a pasta dish from Tasting Rome, I will share my 'think I have died and gone to heaven' experience making and eating Spaghetti Alla Gricia, a dish somewhat like a carbonara. Only this one is made with guanciale instead of pancetta or bacon, Pecorino Romano instead of Parmigiano-Reggiano, and white wine instead of eggs.

So what exactly is guanciale? Whole cured pork jowl and one of the key elements of the cucina romana. The rendered fat from guanciale adds both flavor and thickness to many of the classic pasta dishes like Carbonara and this Gricia. 

I thought if water from Italy could be imported to the states, then guanciale should too. And the good news: it is! You may have to seek out a grocery store with an extensive array of Italian foods, but it can be found. Note: Substituting guanciale with unsmoked pancetta or bacon will not yield the same or texture to a pasta dish as guanciale is quite a bit fattier.

Pecorino Romano is a hard, salty sheep's milk cheese, a staple in the diet in ancient Rome. Cheese labeled as 'Romano' is not the same as Pecorino Romano (so buyer beware). Freshly grated and pre-packaged grated cheeses are two different animals, ones performing and tasting differently. For the purest flavor and the best consistency in sauces (or any dish calling for grated cheese) always, always grate your own cheese.

Spaghetti Alla Gricia is the kind of dish you don't have to wait for the weekend to make. It all comes together in well under an hour, making it perfect for a mid-week dinner or a last minute dinner party. Paired with a simple salad and wine, it is a dish destined to make you feel as if you brought Rome home.

The rendered fat from the guanciale, white wine, and some of the reserved pasta water not only helps to create the sauce but it also continues to cook the al dente spaghetti. I was a little reluctant to cook the spaghetti to very al dente (approximately 6 minutes of cooking time) as I worried I would end up with an inedible dish. Turns out I worried needlessly as the spaghetti cooks to the perfect consistency after added to and cooked over medium-high heat with the 'sauce'.

The original recipe called for the use of only 1 cup of grated pecorino romano cheese. I ended up using almost 1 1/4 cups. While I loved the lightness, taste and texture of this dish using that amount of cheese, the next time I make Spaghetti Alla Gricia I will more than likely increase it to at least 1 3/4 cups to create an even creamier coating of cheese/sauce on the spaghetti. Depending on how that works I may end landing on an amount somewhere in the middle. If it is your first time making it, begin with 1 1/4 cups, taste it and then decide if you want to add more grated cheese before plating it.

If I tell you I inhaled a bowl of this Spaghetti Alla Gricia it might give you the wrong impression of my table manners. Well I actually took three very quick bites but then decided I should slow down, sit back, and savor the absolute deliciousness of this pasta dish. If it were possible for a dish to allow you to time travel to another time and place, this Spaghetti Alla Gricia would open that portal. And maybe someday when I finally travel to Italy, I can consume as much wine, pasta, and of course, water as possible. Until such time, I can at least begin working my way through these two cookbooks.

Recipe

Spaghetti Alla Gricia (slight adaption to the Spaghetti Alla Gricia recipe in Tasting Rome: Fresh Flavors and Forgotten Recipes from an Ancient City by Katie Parla and Kristina Gill)

Ingredients

1 pound spaghetti (recommend using a premium brand Italian pasta)
1 teaspoon extra-virgin olive oil
7 ounces Guanciale, cut into 1 1/2" x 1/2" inch strips
1/2 cup white wine (recommend a Pinot Grigio)
1 3/4 cups Pecorino Romano, freshly grated (plus more for serving) Notes: (1) A 6-7 ounce block of Pecorino Romano will yield the amount of grated cheese needed and (2) Original recipe called for 1 cup of grated cheese, so depending on taste, use anywhere from 1 to 1 3/4 cups of grated cheese.
Freshly ground black pepper

Directions
1. Bring a large pot of water to a rolling boil over high heat, salting the water. Add the pasta and cook until very al dente or partially raw (approximately 6 minutes). Drain reserving the cooking water. Note: The pasta will continue to cook when it is added to the liquid in the skillet.
2. Heat the olive oil in a large skillet over low-medium heat. When oil begins to shimmer add the guanciale, stirring until golden brown (approximately 8 minutes). 
3. Add white wine and cook until the alcohol dissipates (about 1 minute).
4. Add a small ladle of the pasta cooking water and bring to a simmer. 
5. Add pasta and another small ladle of the pasta cooking water. Cook over medium-high heat, stirring vigorously, until a thick sauce forms (add more water if necessary to achieve the desired consistency).
6. Remove the skillet from the heat, and add 1 1/2 cups of the grated Pecorino Romano. Mix thorough and season to taste with salt and pepper.
7. Transfer to a large platter or plate in individual pasta bowls. Sprinkle each portion with additional  1/4 cup grated Pecorino Romano and pepper to taste. Serve immediately with additional Pecorino Romano. 

Important Notes:
1. Keep pasta water heated as warm or cooled pasta water will create clumps in the cheese instead of creating a creamy sauce.
2. Do not use already grated Pecorino Romano cheese. Buy a block of cheese and freshly grate. There is a night and day difference between the two.
3. Can add a sunny side up fried egg to each individual portion for a more traditional carbonara.
4. Only use a white wine you would be willing to serve and drink. 
5. Freshly ground pepper is the only spice you need as the rendered fat from the guanciale, the Pecorino Romano, and the salted pasta water give the dish enough of a salty finish. 

Sheep on farms in Northern Wisconsin and in Little Compton, Rhode Island.