After visiting an apple orchard last week I realized I need to learn how to make apple butter and/or apple sauce if I want to put a bushel of apples to good use. Because there are only so many apple confections I can make without sending the household into apple overload. Or if I am still bound and determined to experience the unexplainable joy that comes from wandering through the rows of apple trees and picking apples, I am going to need to take a friend or two with me so we can share in the orchards bounty. But finding an orchard giving me the flexibility of letting me decide how many apples I want to pick would be perfect for when I need to restock the apple eating and baking inventory.
The apple orchard I frequented near my farmhouse out east spoiled me. Even when it was 'closed', I could still walk up the steep hill to the orchard and meander through the trees until I found those perfect apples. Sometimes I picked only enough to eat for the week, other times I picked enough to give to friends. Whether it's a figment of my imagination or not, the taste of apples picked fresh from the trees don't seem compare to the ones store-bought. Not even the ones labeled as 'organic'.
Some weeks back while browsing through the cookbook 'Classic German Baking: The Very Best Recipes for Traditional Favorites from, Pfeffernusse to Stresuselkuchen' by Luisa Weiss I was immediately drawn to the recipe for Versunkener Apfelkuchen aka Sunken Apple Cake. A simple, yet delicious sounding cake, this German version of an apfelkucken reminded me a little of the Italian Torta di Mele. Although there was enough of a difference between them that I knew I needed the German version in my life.
While most kuchens are considered to be simple cakes, ones intended to be shared and enjoyed with friends over a cup of coffee, they are moist, buttery, slightly custardy, apple-y bites of deliciousness. The Versunkener Apfelkuchen is a cake where thinly sliced apples are carefully placed atop a thick luscious batter. When baked, the cake batter rises around the apples creating the effect of apples peeking through a golden brown crust. A dusting of confectionary sugar on top not only hides any of the cakes imperfections, it adds a beautiful aesthetic finish. Turning a seemingly ordinary every day cake into one worthy of being enjoyed at a celebration.
More than likely you have all of the ingredients for an Versunkener Apfelkuchen in your refrigerator or pantry. And no, it doesn't require a trip to the apple orchard! I used Granny Smith apples as I like them for their tartness and ability to hold their shape while baking, although there are a number of other apples you can use in this cake (see recipe below).
To further ensure the meticulously cut apples remained fresh and unblemished, I began this cake by making the batter first. There is no need to pull out a standing mixer as a hand mixer will actually work better. A lesson learned in the making of this cake. The zest from half a (medium sized) lemon, butter and sugar are beaten together until light and fluffy. At this point you can then either add the eggs whole or having divided your eggs, add only the egg yolks along with the vanilla. I opted for the divide the eggs (whipping the egg whites until stable peaks form and add later) approach for making this cake. A suggestion taken from Deb Perelman at Smitten Kitchen. Once the eggs or yolks and vanilla are fully blended, the sifted flour is added in two additions along with the kosher salt. The juice from half of a lemon is mixed in before the whipped egg whites are folded in (in three additions) until no streaks remain. Scrape the lush, thick batter into prepared 9" springform pan. Smooth the top with an offset spatula and set aside. Note: I used self-rising flour for this cake, but you 1 1/2 cups of all-purpose flour and 2 teaspoons of baking powder can be used instead.
Some recipes for the Versunkener Apfelkuchen cut the apples only in half, not in quarters. Additionally, some will suggest cutting the apples only halfway through so the apples stay intact. If your apples are small, the cutting in half method may be your best option. If they are medium sized or larger, and you would like your cake covered in apples, then I would definitely recommend going in the cutting into quarters route. While my thin slices (approximately 1/8") weren't exactly up to German engineering standards, they baked up beautifully.
I ended up cutting my apples all the way rather than halfway through. This may in part have contributed to their sinking down a little further than I would have wanted, although I think pushing down on them into the batter too hard was the real reason. However you cut them, keep them intact even as you squeeze fresh lemon juice over them and sprinkle them with sugar.
If you do a search for Versunkener Apfelkuchen, you will find a myriad of designs for placing the apples on top of the cake. Be as playful and artistic as you want as I honestly don't think there is one right way to arrange them. Sprinkle the top of the cake with a tablespoon or two of demerara sugar before putting into the oven.
In a preheated 350 degree (F) oven the cake bakes for 35-45 minutes. Or until golden brown on top and a toothpick inserted into the center of the cake comes out clean (be careful not to test the doneness of the cake by inserting the toothpick into the apples). Place the baked cake on a cooling rack and allow to rest for 5-10 minutes before removing the springform pan ring.
As much as you will be tempted to cut into this cake, allow it come to room temperature before serving.
While the dusting of confectionary sugar was my attempt at a cosmetic fix to a cake lovingly made, it added the perfect amount of sweetness. So whether or not my sunken apples display perfectly on top of the cake the next time it's made, I will still opt for the 'dusting of snow' confectionary sugar finish.
Regardless of our cultural backgrounds and ethnicity, we all need this Versunkener Apfelkuchen in our lives. Having an almost perfect apple to cake ratio, you could probably justify eating this cake for breakfast. I know I could.
Versunkener Apfelkuchen (Sunken Apple Cake) - (Several adaptations to the Versunkener Apfelkuchen recipe from Luisa Weiss's Classic German Baking cookbook along with some influence from Smitten Kitchen's Honey Apple Cake recipe)
Ingredients
3 medium-large apples (I used Granny Smith, but could also use Honey Crisp, Pink Lady, Cortland, or Fuji Apples)
Zest from 1/2 of a medium sized lemon
Juice from a medium sized lemon, divided
9 1/2 Tablespoons (130 g) unsalted butter, room temperature
1/2 cup plus 2 Tablespoons (125 g) caster or granulated sugar
3 large eggs, room temperature, separated (See notes)
1 1/2 cups (190 g) self-rising flour (or use 1 1/2 cups of all-purpose flour and add 2 teaspoon baking powder)
1 teaspoon vanilla
1/4 teaspoon kosher salt
1-2 Tablespoons demerara sugar
Optional: Confectionary sugar for dusting top of the cake and/or lightly sweetened whipped cream
Directions
1. Preheat oven to 350 degrees (F) or 180 degrees (C). Line a 9 inch springform pan with parchment paper. Butter sides of pan and the parchment paper. Set aside.
2. Sift flour and set aside. (Note: If using all-purpose flour, sift the flour with the baking powder and set aside.)
3. In a medium to large bowl, combine lemon zest, butter, and sugar. Beat until mixture is light and fluffy (approximately 2-3 minutes).
4. Add in egg yolks and vanilla. Beat until yolks are fully incorporated.
5. Add kosher salt and half of the flour. Mix until the flour is incorporated. Add the remaining flour and mix until incorporated. Note: Batter will be thick at this point.
6. Mix in juice from half of the lemon.
7. In a separate bowl, beat the egg whites until semi-stiff (peaks will form, but the mixture will not appear dry).
8. Fold in the whipped egg whites in 3 additions until no white streaks remain, but be careful to not over mix the batter at this point.
9. Scrape the silky cake batter into the prepared cake pan. Smooth top with an offset spatula.
10. Peel and core 3 apples. Cut apples into quarters. Thinly slice apple quarters (trying not to cut all the way through, but it's okay if you do, just keep the cut quarters intact). Place sections of the apples in a large bowl. Squeeze juice from the other half of the lemon over the sliced apple quarters (but do not stir). Sprinkle with 1 Tablespoon of caster (or granulated sugar).
11. Very gently arrange the sliced apple quarters (core side down) on top of the batter, leaving only a little space between the apples. Do not press down firmly or shift apples once they have been placed on top of the batter. Sprinkle top with 1-2 Tablespoons demerara sugar.
11. Bake in the center of the oven for 35-45 minutes or until golden brown and a cake tester inserted into the cake (not apples) comes out clean.
13. Place cake pan on a cooling rack for at least 5-10 minutes before removing springform pan ring from cake.
14. Allow cake to cool to room temperature. Transfer to a cake stand or platter and serve.
15. Optional: Sprinkle top of the cake with sifted confectionary sugar.
Notes: (1) The suggestion for separating the eggs and blending in the egg whites separately came from Deb Perelman at Smitten Kitchen. The Versunkener Apfelkuchen recipe from Luisa Weiss recommended adding the eggs whole. Either option will work. (2) Carefully lay apples on batter rather than pressing them in firmly if you want your cut apples to be fully exposed on the top of the cake. (3) The cake is best on the first day, but if well wrapped will keep for 2 days. (4) In lieu of a dusting of confectionary sugar to add some sweetness, can also serve the cake with lightly sweetened whipped cream.
Autumn Bounty (October 2017)
