Wednesday, May 4, 2016

Torta di Mele (Apple Cake)


My affinity for open spaces and landscapes has been reflected in many different aspects of my life. For as long as I can remember they are what I love to photograph most (secretly I am an Ansel Adams wannabe). Many take photos of their friends and family, I take photos of the sky, trees, sea, animals, flowers, mountains, and architecture. For more than seventy years there has been a vacant piece of property on the east side of our home. This open space was one of the many things that drew me to this house almost nine years ago (because it certainly wasn't the 'what was I thinking' long narrow, hardly a gathering kind of place galley kitchen). My bucolic view underwent a dramatic change a few weeks ago when the invasion of construction trucks arrived to begin building a house. Now, each time I look out my kitchen window or side door, there is an audible 'ugh' followed by a deep sigh. In my suburban community there has been the unsettling trend of replacing smaller houses with larger ones and lots serving as play spaces for generations of children have all but disappeared. Unlike some other communities across the country where the value of open space takes precedence over growth, the changing landscape here only further deepens my love for the by the sea town in Rhode Island I was fortunate to call home for a couple of years. Short of moving back there, I suppose I will now need to turn my annual return trips into at least semi-annual ones. Hopefully these return visits along with travels to less population dense places will minimize and help to cure the angst I have been feeling over the changing view from my kitchen window.


In the last blog post I shared the titles of two recently made cookbook purchases. The recipe for this Torta di Mele (Apple Cake) comes from one of them, Emiko Davies first cookbook: Florentine: The True Cuisine of Florence. Through her photographs, stories, and recipes Emiko makes you lust for Florence and everything Tuscan. I was completely mesmerized by this book. If I close my eyes and use my imagination, I feel as if I can see and feel the landscape of Florence. And now I can taste it.


Desserts usually don't come to mind when you think of Tuscan cooking. So why did I choose to make the Torta di Mele (Apple Cake) as the first recipe out of this cookbook? Maybe because I sometimes consider myself a baker first, cook second. Or maybe this rustic apple cake just spoke to me.


I picked up two beautiful Golden Delicious apples at the grocery store for this Torta di Mele (Apple Cake). But after making this cake, next time I might look for 3 medium sized apples so the top of cake can be topped with two circular rows of apples. In other words, 3 medium sized versus 2 larger apples would be for aesthetic purposes only.

There is nothing pretentious about this recipe. And with the exception of Golden Delicious apples you more than likely have all of the ingredients in your pantry and refrigerator.

After peeling, coring, and cutting the apples into 1/2 slices, they are mixed with the freshly squeezed lemon juice and two tablespoons of granulated sugar (taken from the total amount of sugar used in the recipe). While the apples marinate, you make the batter. Having room temperature butter is critical to creating a well-blended batter. The lemon juice used to marinate the apples ultimately goes into the batter along with half of the sliced apples. The combination of the lemon zest and lemon juice are what differentiates and sets this apple cake apart from all others.


Using a 9 inch springform pan allows you to easily remove the cake from the pan and transfer to a platter or cake stand. Baked in a 360 degree (F), yes 360 degrees, this is not a typo, the cake bakes for 55-60 minutes or until the top is lightly golden and easily springs back when lightly pressed.


The cake easily removes from the pan after a 15-20 minute cooling period. There are two finishing touch options. Either a dusting of confectionary sugar (my favorite) or a brushing of melted apricot jam over the top. Both options add some sweetness to this very moist, flavorful cake, although I am partial to confectionary sugar.

From start to finish this incredibly delicious, satisfying cake comes together in less than 2 hours, a hour of which is baking time. Although intended to be a dessert, it would be perfect to serve at breakfast, brunch, with a light lunch, or bring to a picnic or gathering. Depending on the time of day it's served, it would pair perfectly with a cup of coffee or glass of sweet vin santo.


In spite of my earlier rant over the impending loss of the open space view outside of my kitchen window, the space surrounding my home has always been secondary to the space and food created within it. While some spending time here will often comment on the look of my home, those that share how it made them feel is the compliment always bringing a smile to my face, a flutter to my heart. And this Torta di Mele is destined to make all those that enter and partake in the gifts coming from my kitchen feel like they are surrounded by love.

Recipe
Torta di Mele (Apple Cake) (barely any change made to Emiko Davies recipe as shared in her cookbook Florentine: The True Cuisine of Florence)

Ingredients
2 large Golden Delicious apples (or other good cooking apples), peeled, cored, and sliced into 1/2 inch slices Note: Or use 3 smaller Golden Delicious Apples in order to have two circular rows of sliced apples placed on top of the cake.
Juice and zest of 1 medium sized lemon
6 1/2 ounces (180 g) granulated sugar, separated
4 1/2 ounces (about 9 T) (125 g) unsalted butter, room temperature
3 large eggs, room temperature (Note: Original recipe called for the use of 3 medium (1 3/4 ounce) eggs)
5 ounces whole milk
10 1/2 ounces (300 g) all-purpose flour
1 teaspoon baking powder
Pinch of kosher salt
Confectionary sugar for finishing (or warm apricot jam for finishing)

Directions
1. Preheat oven to 360 degrees (F). Prepare a 9 inch springform pan and set aside.
2. In a medium sized bowl, mix together apple slices, juice from the lemon and 2 Tablespoons of the the granulated sugar. 
3. In a standing mixer, beat the remaining sugar and butter until pale and creamy (approximately 4-5 minutes).
4. Add eggs and beat until until you have a thick, pale mixture. Scrape sides of bowl as needed.
5. Add milk and the lemon zest. Beat on low until combined.
6. Fold in flour, baking powder, salt and half of the apple slices, along with all of the lemon juice to combine.
7. Pour cake batter into prepared pan and smooth surface of cake using an offset spatula. Arrange remaining apple slices over the surface of the cake.
8. Bake in the center of the oven for 55-60 minutes or until the top is golden brown and springy to the touch. Allow to sit for at least 15-20 minutes before removing from the pan and transferring to a cake stand or platter.
9. Finish with a liberal dusting of sifted confectionary sugar. Note: Instead of confectionary sugar, brush with melted apricot jam.
10. Serve with coffee or vin santo.

Scenes from Martha's Vineyard, September 2015.