"There is nothing I would not do for those who are really my friends." Jane Austen When it comes to being loyal, it would be fair to say I extend my fierce faithfulness only to people. Or rather I should say some people. Even when that loyalty might be a bit misguided or unreciprocated. Yet, with very few exceptions, I am genuinely not particularly loyal to things. Specifically to recipes. I can already hear your gasps! But before you stop reading this post or worse yet, decide you will no longer be a loyal follower, give me a chance to explain. As is often the case when I learn something new or self-reflect, I sometimes shift my thinking. The best example of this might be with regard to what I now believe to be a really, really, really good chocolate chip cookie recipe (at the moment it's this one). Over the course of the last thirty something plus years my loyalty, so to speak, to chocolate chip cookie recipes has changed for a myriad of reasons. From the quality of ingredients, to ingredient ratios, to recipe techniques, I must admit my allegiance to a recipe on more than one occasion has been upended. It's not that I completely abandon them, it's that they just don't always make regular repeat appearances on my table.
There are currently five recipes, five versions of macaroni and cheese on the blog. And to be honest, I still like all of them for different reasons. But, if anyone were to ask me what my favorite mac and cheese recipe is, I would have to say it's for THIS ONE for Shells and Cheese. One made with Fontina and Cheddar cheeses and topped with a crunchy gremolata. If I were making mac and cheese for friends/family or for Thanksgiving, without hesitation, THIS would be the one I would be making. And it's the one I am going to try to be loyal to for as long as possible. And who knows, it could very well be one of those exceptions to the loyalty rule dishes!
So what's so different about this one that has me all excited and swooning over? Maybe it's the combination of both Fontina and Cheddar cheeses. Because what is not to love about the medium-sharp, rich, soft, creamy Fontina to give that cheese pull when you spoon it out of the dish? Or maybe it's the gremolata made with Japanese panko, fresh parsley, grated garlic and lemon zest adding both texture and flavor that had my head spinning. Or maybe it's the slight heat created by the use of onion powder, garlic powder, and white pepper that had me say 'wow' each time I took a bite. I could probably go on a bit more on why this is the lollapalooza of mac and cheese dishes, but I will show some restraint.
Like many macaroni and cheese dishes this one begins with a roux. Like most other bechamel based cheese sauces, this one starts with butter and flour. Although instead of adding in a higher milk to cream or half-and-half ratio, this one is heavy on the half-and-half.
Because there isn't any hard and fast rule on which is the best pasta to use when making a macaroni and cheese dish, you can choose to stay traditional and use elbow macaroni or be swayed and use the slightly more delicate shells. But whether you opt for either of these choices or choose another one, remember you want one that lends itself to being liberally coated with the creamy, cheesy sauce. Or maybe you want to make a 'mockeroni' version using lightly steamed cauliflower florets.
When buying a block of Fontina cheese, buy one weighing slightly more than you need to take into account the weight of rind. When choosing your cheddar cheese, look for one that's sharp. But for this dish you don't need to buy the highest end, most aged sharp cheddar you can find. Find one you like, one you would gladly just eat or serve on a charcuterie platter.
After you make the rich, creamy, cheesy sauce, remove the pan from the stovetop and mix in the al dente cooked pasta Working quickly, pour the entire mixture into a generously buttered baking dish. Note: You can make the dish up to this point early in the day. Just cover and refrigerate, but take out of the refrigerator at least 30 minutes before baking.
While the Shells and Cheese are baking in a preheated 350 degree (F) oven, make the gremolata. I had considered topping the dish with some crispy bacon, but at the moment I am in love with the flavor and added texture this gremolata brings to the dish. I prefer using the large, plain Japanese style panko rather than the smaller versions of panko you might find at the grocery store as it gives a much better crunch to the gremolata.
The gremolata is sprinkled on top after the Shells and Cheese finish baking. The recipe makes enough to lightly sprinkle over the whole dish or generously sprinkled down the center. Everyone needs to get at least a spoonful of it.
I might have momentarily died and gone to heaven while eating this Shells and Cheese dish.
If by chance the dish isn't completely devoured and you have any leftovers, this Shells and Cheese dish reheats beautifully in the microwave. Yet another reason why I might become a most loyal fan to a recipe.
I don't think I am going too far out on a limb when I say this might be THE showstopper side dish at your next gathering. Which is all the more reason why you need one more macaroni and cheese recipe in your life.
Recipe
Shells and Cheese (Fontina & Cheddar)
Serves 8-10 as a side dish
Ingredients
1 Tablespoon and 1 3/4 teaspoon Kosher salt, divided
16 ounces (454g) pasta shells (see notes)
3 Tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, divided
4 Tablespoons (67g) unsalted butter
1/3 cup (44g) all-purpose flour
3 3/4 cups half and half
1/2 cup whole milk
10 ounces (283g) Fontina cheese, grated and divided
8 ounces (227g) sharp cheddar cheese, grated and divided (see notes)
1 1/4 teaspoons onion powder
1 1/4 teaspoons garlic powder
1 1/4 teaspoons white pepper
1/8 teaspoon nutmeg
1/2 teaspoon black pepper
1/2 cup Japanese style Panko
1/2 cup freshly chopped flat leaf parsley
Zest of one lemon
1 large garlic clove, grated
Directions
1. Preheat the oven to 350 degrees (F). Generously butter a broiler safe 9" x 11" baking dish. Set aside.
2. Bring a large pot of water to boil over medium-high heat. Add in 1 Tablespoon of Kosher salt and the package of shells. Cook to al dente according to the package directions, but taste to make certain. Drain and transfer to a large bowl. Stir in 1 Tablespoon of extra-virgin olive oil to keep the pasta from sticking.
3. In a heavy bottomed saucepan, melt the butter over medium heat. Whisk in the flour and cook whisking constantly until the mixture is lightly browned (about 4 minutes).
4. Gradually add in the half-and-half and milk, stirring until the sauce is smooth. Bring the sauce to a simmer over medium-high heat (whisking regularly), then reduce the heat to low and continue cooking for 4-5 minutes or until the sauce has no floury taste (about 4 minutes).
5. Remove from the heat and gradually add in 6 ounces of the grated Fontina and 6 ounces of the grated sharp cheddar, whisking until smooth. Whisk in the onion powder, garlic powder, white pepper, and nutmeg.
6. Stir in the cooked shells. Season with 1 1/2 teaspoons Kosher salt and 1/2 teaspoon black pepper.
7. Transfer mixture to the prepared baking dish. Top with the remaining 4 ounces of grated Fontina and 2 ounces of grated cheddar. Place dish on a large baking sheet and bake for about 20 minutes (or until the edges begin bubbling).
8. While the dish is baking, heat the remaining 2 Tablespoons of extra-virgin olive oil in a small saucepan over medium heat. Add in panko and cook until golden (about 3-4 minutes). Transfer to a bowl and let rest for 2 minutes. Stir in the chopped parsley, grated lemon zest, and grated garlic. Season with 1/4 teaspoon Kosher salt.
8. Increase the oven temperature to broil and cook until browned in spots (about 2-3 minutes). Again, remember to use a baking dish that can withstand a broil temperature.
9. Remove from the oven and let set for at least 5 minutes.
10. Top the Shells and Cheese with Gremolata.
11. Serve immediately.
Notes: (1) Recipe heavily influenced by the Baked Shells with Gremolata Breadcrumbs recipe found in Food and Wine's Thanksgiving Issue, November 2021. (2) I used the N 105 shells from Granoro. (3) I used the Trader Joe's Unexpected Cheddar, however, if you want a slightly creamier dish use a softer sharp cheddar. (4) The other mac and cheese recipes on the blog can be found here: Gouda Mac and Cheese with Caramelized Shallots, Mac and Cheese East Coast Style, Baked Macaroni and Cheese, Macaroni and Cheese, Version 2, and Stovetop Mac and Cheese with Caramelized Shallots.
Scenes from Cape Cod (October 2021)
