Friday, January 6, 2017

Macaroni and Cheese, Version 2


Winter has barely started and we are already experiencing some bone chilling, painfully cold days here in the midwest. The kind of days where you don't really want to leave the house as you irrationally fear frostbite will immediately set in even by merely stepping in the cold for the minute it takes to bring the garbage containers out to the curb, to walk from the car into the grocery store, or to bring more wood in to keep the fire in the fireplace going. Days where cozying up with a good book (preferably sitting near a warm fire), binge watching all of those shows you couldn't find the time to watch, and/or eating comfort food are the simplest of life's pleasure. Yet somehow they feel more like one of those 'pinch yourself' moments of indulgence.


A couple of years ago, the Huffington Post shared their list of the 25 Best Comfort Foods. Number three on the list was Macaroni and Cheese. A dish listed somewhere on almost every other best or quintessentially classic comfort food list ever published. Not surprisingly the search for Macaroni and Cheese recipes increases as the temperature decreases. Seems everyone goes on the hunt for the creamiest, cheesiest, dreamiest version of the most addictive of all comfort foods when the weather turns wicked. But most of us want not just creamy and cheesy, we want some crunch! In other words, we want our Macaroni and Cheese to have it all.


Recipes for making Macaroni and Cheese fall into two general categories: (1) those completely made on the stove and (2) those baked in the oven. This creamy, cheesy version begins on the stove and finishes in the oven.


Traditionally Macaroni and Cheese is made with elbow macaroni. But nothing prevents you from changing out the type of pasta in this dish. Although choosing the right kind of pasta is critical as using the wrong kind of pasta will affect the dish. Select a pasta having nooks and crannies to catch and hold onto the cheese sauce. Pasta shapes like shells, cavatappi, and farfalle are good at trapping the cheese sauce and can transform your Macaroni and Cheese dish from a simple to an 'up-scale' one.

The foundation of the cheese sauce is a roux made with equal parts butter and flour. Warmed whole milk is slowly added to roux, turning the mixture into a bechamel sauce. By using slightly warmed milk, you will spend less time whisking to get the sauce to the desired consistency. Salt, pepper, some Tabasco sauce (I like Cholula Hot Sauce), heavy cream and grated cheeses will finish off the sauce.


Cook your pasta al dente (i.e., firm, but with some bite) as it will continue to cook in the sauce when baked in the oven. More often than not I cook my pasta about a minute longer than the recommended al dente time listed on the bag/box. But test it before adding any cooking time. To temporarily stop the pasta from cooking any further, rinse in cold water as soon as you drain it in a colander. Be sure to drain the pasta before adding to the sauce.


I used an aged white sharp cheddar (from Vermont Creamery) and gruyere in this Macaroni and Cheese as both are known for melting easily and complimenting one another. If at all possible, never use pre-shredded cheese as it will not deliver as rich of a taste as cheeses freshly grated do. If you don't have or can't find gruyere cheese, use Parmigiano-Reggiano, Fontina, or a mild Gouda to go with the white sharp cheddar.

As tempted as you will be to eat the sauced pasta right out of the pan (and you will be), you will be rewarded for your patience if you pour (all but one or two small bites) it into your buttered casserole dish.


Sprinkle the reserved half cup of grated sharp cheddar cheese over the top of the casserole, before evenly spreading the buttered bread crumbs. Instead of using boxed bread crumbs, put some (white, egg or brioche) bread and/or rolls in a food processor and process until the mixture is crumbly. One generous cup of bread crumbs mixed with four Tablespoons of melted butter covered the casserole perfectly.


The Macaroni and Cheese bakes for 25-30 minutes in a preheated 350 degree (F) oven. It's done when the bread crumbs turn a beautiful golden brown and some of the sauce is bubbling up along the sides of the dish. Allow to sit for at least five minutes before serving.


This is a creamy, cheesy macaroni and cheese. The combination of the sharp cheddar and gruyere cheeses blended together contribute to giving the finished dish a great depth of flavor. And the buttered bread crumbs give it the perfect bite of crunch.


This version of the Macaroni and Cheese is the perfect side dish to go with barbecue, burgers, or grilled chicken, however, it's one where it can be a meal all unto itself. Serve with a simple salad and some white wine and you have the makings of a dinner party. To take this dish up a notch or make it slightly more decadent, top the servings with some sautéed lobster medallions or top the entire dish with them. Regardless of how you serve it, it is destined to help you survive the winter as well as completely satisfy a macaroni and cheese craving for at least a week.

On a side note, this version of Macaroni and Cheese may be my most favorite. I don't think I will be looking for another recipe any time soon. If ever.

Recipe
Macaroni and Cheese, Version 2 (slight adaptation to James Beard's Macaroni and Cheese recipe as shared in his cookbook Beard on Pasta)
Serve 6-8 as a side dish. Serves 4 to 6 as a main course.

Ingredients
4 Tablespoons unsalted butter
4 Tablespoons all-purpose flour
2 cups whole milk, warmed
1/2 teaspoon kosher salt
1/8 teaspoon black pepper
1/2 teaspoon Tabasco, or more to taste (Note: My favorite is Cholula Hot Sauce.)
1/2 to 3/4 cup heavy cream 
1/2 pound cavatappi or elbow macaroni, cooked al dente
8 ounces white, aged sharp cheddar, freshly grated and divided (Note: An eight ounce block of cheese is equivalent to 2 cups of grated cheese)
1 1/2 ounces grated gruyere  
1 cup fresh bread crumbs
4 Tablespoons melted butter

Directions
1. Preheat oven to 350 degrees (F). Butter a 12 inch casserole dish and set aside.
2. Melt 4 Tablespoons unsalted butter over low heat. Add flour and stir with wood spoon or spatula until the roux is frothy and the taste of raw flour is gone (approximately 3 minutes).
3. Add warmed milk gradually to the roux, stirring hard all the while. 
4. Turn up the heat and cook, stirring constantly, until sauce is just to the boiling point.
5. Turn down heat and let simmer for several minutes. Stir in salt, pepper, and Tabasco.
6. Stir in one half cup heavy cream and simmer for a couple of minutes longer.
7. Mix in three quarters (1 1/2 cups) of the grated cheddar and all of the grated gruyere into the sauce. Stir until cheese has melted. Remove from heat. Note: If sauce seems too thick, add the remaining quarter cup of heavy cream.
8. Cook (to al dente), rinse in cold water, and drain pasta. 
9. Mix pasta into the sauce.
10. Pour mixture into prepared dish.
11. Mix bread crumbs with melted butter.
12. Top mixture with remaining 1/2 cup of grated cheddar cheese and the bread crumb mixture.
13. Bake for 25-30 minutes until bubbly and bread crumbs have nicely browned.
14. Allow to set for 5 minutes. Serve.

Notes: (1) The first time you make this Macaroni and Cheese, use the traditional elbow macaroni. (2) Top individual servings of the Macaroni and Cheese with lobster medallions to turn it into a lunch/dinner course. (3) Instead of using slices of bread, buy a fresh roll from your bakery or in the bakery section of your grocery store to make the bread crumbs. (4) Reheat leftovers on a low heat microwave setting.


Shadows on the canyon walls in the Lower Dells at Matthiessen State Park, Oglesby, IL (January 2017)