Sunday, January 12, 2014

Sea Salted Butterscotch Pots de Crème

When we were kids our favorite treat was chocolate pudding eaten warm (you know the kind, the boxed pudding mix that was made on the stove and ready in less than ten minutes). No one wanted to or could wait for the pudding to chill. It was amazing it even made it from the pan to the Pyrex custard cups. This boxed semi-instant pudding became one of those comfort foods that somehow made all of our childhood worries disappear (even for a while longer after we devoured the warm chocolately goodness). Yes, the chocolate instant pudding was what 'pudding heaven' felt like back then. Fortunately, the transformative powers of pudding have since been generalized to all things with a rich creamy texture. Fortunately I don't have a pudding or a crème brûlée or a panna cotta or a pot de crème every time I want to temporarily put my mind in a no worry place. Although the idea has crossed my mind a time or two.


As I was browsing through some of my cookbooks the other day looking for a French Onion Soup recipe, I was distracted by a recipe for Butterscotch Pots de Crème. But since I recently reaffirmed my commitment to getting on the treadmill daily (a new year's good intention that I need to sustain), the thought making the Pots de Crème made me think I might be sabotaging the impact the running on the treadmill was having (and supposed to have). I had been on the treadmill for six days in a row (feeling good while simultaneously whining), yet I could not get the thought of that creamy textured butterscotch flavored dessert out of my mind, especially one where the flavor was further enhanced with sea salt.


So what do most of us do when faced with such a dilemma? Well, we could show great will power and forget about it (I know at least person with such will power); we could decide it should be a reward for the sacrifices we are making (I know several people who live by this way of thinking); we could make it and spend a little more time at the health club (I know at least one other person with the stamina for this), or we could just make and enjoy it without any guilt or sacrifice (I also know a few people in the 'everything in moderation' category). I decided that the 'everything in moderation' plan was probably the best option. With the added benefit of having one's worries temporarily suspended, well that just pushed me over the edge. I was making a Sea Salted Butterscotch Pots de Crème and that was that. I will get around to making French Onion Soup soon, very soon.


I like to think that pudding is the American version of the French Pots de Crème. Both are 'pots of custard' and both are made with eggs, cream, and milk. The differences between the two are primarily in how they are made. The entire process for making puddings generally happens on top of the stove. while the process for making the Pots de Crème begins on top of the stove but ends in the oven (bake in a water bath). You can't wrong with either 'custard' but if you have never made Pots de Crème, you really should. Really.


The whipping cream, whole milk and dark brown sugar and combined in a saucepan. The mixture is cooked at medium heat until the sugar has melted (be careful not to let this mixture boil). Once the sugar is melted, remove the pan from the heat and set aside.


The color, as well as the butterscotch flavor, for this Sea Salted Butterscotch Pots de Crème comes from the caramel mixture. In a medium sized saucepan, the water and granulated sugar are cooked at high heat until the sugar is melted and the mixture is a deep golden color. Swirling the pan often it takes approximately 4 to 6 minutes to achieve this color. 

Remove the caramel mixture from the stove top while you slowly whisking in the milk cream mixture. It will splatter and the caramel will seize up, but not to worry and don't freak out. Return the pan to stove and on low heat, continue cooking until all of the caramel has melted and the mixture is smooth. Remove from the stove and set aside.

In a heat proof medium sized bowl whisk the six large egg yolks. Then very slowly whisk in the hot milk/cream/caramel mixture. You will want to add the hot mixture this very, very slowly so you do not cook the egg yolks. You will know you did this well if the mixture is smooth and free of any lumps. Whisk in the vanilla and 1/4 teaspoon of sea salt.

Sometimes when recipes call for straining I want to omit this step. Invariably I learned this can be a mistake. So using a fine mesh sieve, strain the mixture. You can strain into a large heatproof measuring cup or you can strain back into a pan and then pour back into the heat proof measuring cup. Having the mixture end up in a measuring cup makes it easier to pour into the ramekins without spilling or wasting the mixture. Remember it makes only six servings, every drop counts.

The mixture is poured into 6 (at least six ounce each) ramekins. You can use custard cups, canning jars (Weck's small jars would be fun), porcelain ramekins/cups or any other container that is heat proof. I used some vintage FireKing custard jars. The ramekins are placed in a roasting pan (I like to use a large, deep sauce pan) before you add the HOT water. Some recipes call for having the water come up to the half-way point of the ramekin, others call for ensuring there is at least 1/2 inch of water in the pan. I went with the 1/2 inch of HOT water.


They are baked for 35 to 50 minutes. Time will vary due to the type/depth of ramekin you used. The Sea Salted Butterscotch Pots de Crème are done when they have a jello-like consistency to them when you lightly shake them (the center will not be completely set). Remove the ramekins from the water bath, allow to cool, and then refrigerate for at least 2 hours (or up to overnight). When getting ready to serve, sprinkle with additional sea salt.

If I had to describe the taste of the Sea Salted Butterscotch Pots de Crème in just one word it would be OMG (if that's a word)! Seriously, the creaminess of the custard and the deliciousness of the butterscotch flavor along the sprinkle of sea salt on top makes it something that almost defies a worthy description (or at least one in a just a few words). If I had eaten this when I was a kid, I would definitely better appreciate the difference between immediate and slightly delayed satisfaction. There is nothing that will keep me from experiencing a bit of this 'Pots de Crème heaven'. And I won't even whine about having to spend more time on the treadmill (or at least not so anyone can hear me).

Recipe
Sea Salted Butterscotch Pots de Crème (recipe inspired by Butterscotch Pots de Crème created by Michael Northern)

Ingredients
2 cups heavy whipping cream
1 cup whole milk
1/4 cup dark brown sugar
3/4 cup granulated sugar
1/4 cup water
6 large egg yolks
1 teaspoon vanilla
1/4 teaspoon Maldon Sea Salt, plus additional for garnishing
Optional: Freshly whipped cream

Directions
1. Preheat oven to 325 degrees.
2. Combine whipping cream, milk, and brown sugar in a saucepan. On low heat, stir until sugar is dissolved. Remove from heat and set aside.
3. In a large saucepan, combine the water and granulated sugar. Cooking high heat until sugar dissolves. Continue cooking, swirling often, until the color of the mixture has darkened to a caramel color (about 4 to 6 minutes). 
4. Gradually whisk in the hot cream mixture (go very slowly at first as it will splatter). Continue cooking over low heat until the caramel dissolves completely (as the caramel mixture will seize up). Remove from heat.
5. Whisk egg yolks in a medium sized heatproof bowl. Gradually whisk in the hot cream mixture (so slowly at first so as to prevent cooking the eggs). 
6. Whisk in vanilla and sea salt.
7. Strain mixture into a large glass mixing cup using a fine mesh strainer. 
8. Pour custard mixture into 6 ramekins ensuring the mixture is evenly divided.
9. Place custard cups into a deep saucepan or roasting pan. Pour at least 1/2 inch very hot water into the roasting pan.
10. Carefully transfer pan to the oven. Bake for 35 to 50 minutes (time will vary depending on the type of ramekin you use). To determine doneness, the custards will have a jello-like consistency when you slightly shake them (the center will not be completely set).
11. Remove ramekins from water. Let cool completely.
12. Cover each ramekin with plastic wrap and refrigerate until completely chilled (at least 2 hours but can be chilled overnight).
13. Sprinkle the top of each ramekin with a pinch of Maldon Sea Salt.
14. Optional: Also serve with a dollop of freshly whipped cream or serve whipped cream on side.