Friday, December 18, 2015

Chocolate Crinkle Cookies


This week, time has gotten completely away from me. As the holidays get closer, I am absolutely convinced time is more of an illusionary concept than the absolute one described in Isaac Newton's first law of space and time. Somewhere in the recesses of my high school physics memory lie the concepts associated with Einstein's theory of relativity. But rather than getting myself tripped up explaining the technical aspects of this theory (high school was a lifetime ago) just know it asserts time happens differently depending on who we are and what we are experiencing at any given moment (e.g., time moves more quickly as we age). In years past, all of the shopping got done, presents got wrapped, packages were sent, baking kind of-sort of was finished, and the holiday meal was made and served. However, at the moment I am seriously beginning to wonder if everything on my long list will get checked off in the whirlwind week ahead. I just need time to slow down. If only that was possible.


It wasn't in my plan this week to make a 'new' cookie, let alone try to attempt to as artfully as possible capture the beginning to end baking process (just in case a rich brownie like cookie made with three kinds of chocolate, rolled in two different sugars, and finished with a sprinkling of sea salt isn't enticing enough for you). This may partially explain why I can't seem to get anything done around here. Some distractions are harder to resist than others. And these Chocolate Crinkle Cookies are the kind of distractions we should all recklessly abandon our will power and control over our time for.


Of course, the making of any new cookie means comparing multiple, similar recipes all claiming to be the BEST ever, the prettiest, the most chocolatey, and the most scrumptious. After investing even more time into the making of a new cookie (there is no such thing as doing things simply), I narrowed my options down to two. One shared by "Baked' fame cookbook authors and pastry chefs Matt Lewis and Renato Poliafito and one by Cook's Illustrated. As luck would have it, there would be some fundamental differences in the ingredients and the baking process between two recipes for a Chocolate Crinkle-like Cookie. There seemed to be some room to merge various aspects of the two of them and possibly make a nuanced contribution of my own.


The idea of using only dark brown sugar to give the cookie a 'more complex, tempered sweetness with a bitter molasses edge' to compliment the chocolate appealed to me. So instead of going with a granulated sugar/brown sugar combination in the cookie dough, I decided to go with Cook's Illustrated dark brown sugar only recommendation. The amount of espresso powder used ranged significantly between the two recipes (1 teaspoon to 4 teaspoons). I could have split the difference between the two amounts, but 1 1/2 teaspoons just made the most sense and would be enough to deepen the chocolate flavor. Both recipes used unsweetened cocoa, but one used a dark semi-sweet (60-72% cocoa) and the other used unsweetened chocolate. With several bars of Scharffen Berger 62% semi-sweet chocolate siting in the cupboard, the decision seemed to be predetermined. There were a few more ingredient differences I needed to reconcile before deciding on the assembling and baking process. Once the number of eggs to be used, how much baking powder and kosher salt to use, and whether or not to use baking soda decisions were made I was (almost) ready to start baking.


After first melting the coarsely chopped semi-sweet chocolate and butter and before combining with the espresso powder, the mixture is removed from its' heat source, mixed until the chocolate is smooth, and allowed to cool. Measuring out the remaining ingredients and getting your standing mixer ready is more than enough chocolate cooling time. Once the eggs and dark brown sugar are thoroughly mixed and the vanilla is blended in, the slightly cooled chocolate mixture is added. The sifted dry ingredients are added all at once. Adding a half cup of miniature chocolate chips to the batter was a last minute decision. While these are a somewhat optional ingredient, I will add them with rather than after the sifted flour ingredients are added to the batter as this is a very thick dough (one you don't want to dry out with over mixing). Cook's Illustrated recommended the batter simply rest for 10 minutes, whereas the Lewis/Poliafito recipe called for chilling the dough for at least 2 but up to 24 hours. The density of dough didn't seemed to call for a 2 hour chill time. Thirty (30) minutes seemed long enough as the dough had completely set up and was still able to scooped without difficulty.


Not only did I want a cookie that tasted insanely delicious, I wanted one that if put in a Miss Cookie Universe pageant it would have the best chance of being crowned the winner. Rolling the cookies first granulated sugar and then in confectionary sugar gave these Chocolate Crinkle Cookies an almost perfect crackly finish (thank you Cook's Illustrated for this recommendation).


If there is one thing you should hope to find under the tree this year, consider asking for a set of some really good ice cream scoops (if you don't have them) as they are almost one of those must-have kitchen tools. Especially if you want your cookies uniform and don't want a pan of cookies in various stages of baked doneness.

Dough balls that are 1 to 1 1/4 inch in diameter will yield anywhere between 22 and 24 cookies. Because the cookies spread, no more than 11 or 12 cookies (spaced apart by at least 1 inch) should be put on the baking pan before going into a preheated 325 degree (F) oven.


Baking time for cookies ranges from to 12 minutes (my baking time was 12 minutes). The baking pan is rotated midway through the baking process. Testing 'dark' cookies for doneness is always a bit of a challenge. To test for this cookie's doneness, you are looking for their edges to start firming up but will still have a slightly soft center.  Because the cookies remain on the baking pan for 5 minutes after being removed from the oven, the cookie will continue to 'bake', so it is important to not over bake them.


After the Chocolate Crinkle Cookies rest on the baking sheet for 5 minutes, they are transferred to a cooling rack. Allow them to cool to room temperature before plating or putting into a container. If not eaten shortly after they are cooled, store the cookies in a tightly sealed container (they will be at their best for up to 2 days after baking). Adding a light sprinkling of sea salt is another optional recommendation. Although once you taste them with and without salt, I am pretty certain you won't see the sea salt as optional. Just be sure to sprinkle on the sea salt when you remove the baked cookies from the oven.


If you have room in your holiday baking schedule to add another cookie, add this one. If you don't have time, figure out a way to make some (sleep is over-rated). These Chocolate Crinkle Cookies are decadent, addictive, and immensely satisfying. They are also Miss Cookie Universe winning worthy as they are beautiful both the inside and out. They have also just become my new favorite cookie.


'The glory of friendship is not the outstretched hand, not the kindly smile, nor the joy of companionship; it is the spiritual inspiration that comes to one when you discover that someone else believes in you and is willing to trust you with a friendship." Ralph Waldo Emerson Of the thousands of quotes on friendship, there are some that truly speak to the significance of those relationships grounded in the enduring mutual love and respect shared between two people. This quote by Emerson is one of them. These are the words you want to share with someone you value and hope will always remain as a close friend. They are not meant to put distance or limits on a friendship, but rather serve to validate how deeply a friendship has touched not only one's heart, but one's soul. Whether you are the giver or receiver of words having such a profoundly beautiful sentiment to them, they are neither time nor situation bound. So as you think about what gifts to give to your most treasured friends this year, think about gifting them with Emerson's words as the holidays seem to lend themselves to bringing the purest of joys to those whose unselfish gift of friendship has shaped you in innumerable ways. These seemingly simple words could make this the most glorious Christmas for both of you.

Recipe
Chocolate Crinkle Cookies (inspired by the recipe for Exceedingly Chocolaty Cookies shared by Matt Lewis and Renato Poliafito)
Makes 22-24 cookies

Ingredients
1 1/4 cups (163g) all-purpose flour
2 Tablespoons (18g) unsweetened cocoa powder
7/8 teaspoon baking powder
1/4 teaspoon baking soda
1/2 teaspoon kosher salt
6 ounces (170g) dark chocolate (60-72% cacao), coarsely chopped (recommend Scharffen Berger Semi-Sweet 62% Chocolate, however use any semi-sweet or dark chocolate containing 60-72% cocao)
4 Tablespoons (57g) unsalted butter, slightly softened, cut into chunks
2 large eggs, room temperature
1 1/2 teaspoons instant espresso powder (recommend King Arthur's Espresso Powder, but most instant expresso powders should work)
3/4 cup (150g) dark brown sugar, firmly packed
2 teaspoons vanilla
1/2 cup miniature chocolate chips (optional but good)

1/2 cup confectionary sugar
1/2 cup granulated sugar
Optional: Sea salt for finishing

Directions
1. Preheat oven to 325 degrees (F). Line two baking sheets with parchment paper and set aside.
2. In a medium sized bowl, sift together flour, cocoa powder, baking powder, baking soda, and salt. Set aside. 
3. Melt butter and coarsely chopped chocolate in a heatproof bowl set over a pan of simmering water. Stir occasionally until almost completely melted and combined. Stir in espresso powder. Remove from heat and continue stirring until chocolate has completely melted. Allow to cool.
4. In the bowl of a standing mixer fitted with a paddle attachment, beat eggs and dark brown sugar together on medium speed until smooth (approximately 3-4 minutes).
5. Add vanilla and beat again until incorporated.
6. Scrape chocolate mixture into the bowl and beat until combined. Scrape down sides and bottom of the bowl.
7. Add flour mixture. Beat on low speed until flour is just incorporated but some streaks remain. Add miniature chocolate chips and finish mixing until flour is incorporated (do not overmix). Note: The miniature chocolate chips are optional, however, because this is a very thick batter, add them in with the sifted flour mixture if using.
8. Cover bowl and place in the refrigerator for 30 minutes.
9. Put granulated sugar and confectionary sugar into two separate bowl.
10. Using an ice cream scoop, form the dough into balls approximately 1 - 1 1/4 inch in diameter. 
11. Roll dough balls first in granulated sugar, then in confectionary sugar. Place on prepared baking sheet (11-12 cookies per sheet).
12. Bake, rotating baking sheets halfway through the baking time, until cookies begin to firm up along the edges (approximately 9-12 minutes). Note: Cookies will still be slightly soft in the center, giving them a moist brownie-like texture).
13. After removing cookies from the oven, lightly sprinkle with sea salt.
14. Allow cookies to rest on baking sheet for 5 minutes before transferring to a cooling rack. Allow to cool to room temperature.
15. Store cookies in a tightly sealed container. Note: Cookies are at the best if eaten within 2 days of baking.


Some of the ornaments hung on one of the Christmas trees this year.