Monday, April 22, 2019

Gigantic Chocolate Chip Cookies


I have been faithfully married to Tara's Chocolate Chip Cookie recipe for awhile now. While I am not forsaking my commitment to this beloved cookie recipe, I have made the decision to be a chocolate chip cookie polygamist. What is happening to me? This Gigantic Chocolate Chip Cookie, aka, the famous New York City Levain Bakery cookie, this is what is happening to me. It is one of those cookies I guarantee will cause you to lose your mind and break your chocolate chip cookie vows.

Thanks to the diligent efforts of baker extraordinaire and cookbook author Stella Parks, who worked tirelessly to recreate the self-proclaimed"world's greatest" $4.00 bakery cookie, we all can make and swoon over these Gigantic Chocolate Chip Cookies at home. We no longer have to drool over photos of Levain's cookies and/or take a cookie buying trip to New York City.


Considering there were several aspects to this recipe managing me to question everything I believed about making really great chocolate chip cookies, I realized I am not as chocolate chip cookie savvy as I thought I was.  Instead of mixing room temperature eggs into the batter, eggs are taken right out of the refrigerator. Rather than chop up a block of dark chocolate to create those luscious pools of chocolate, an assortment of chocolate chips are used in these cookies. Raw, instead of slightly toasted walnuts, are used (the exception to the slightly toasting rule applies only if pecans are used). Then there was the recommended butter: room temperature (not melted) unsalted American instead of unsalted European butter. Even the sequence of mixing the ingredients differed. Needless to say my head was spinning as I read through the recipe. And that was even before I took a bite of a warm, freshly baked, right out of the oven cookie.

My assortment of chocolate chips included Guittard Extra Dark Chocolate Chips (63% cocoa), Ghiradelli Bittersweet Chocolate Chips (60% cocoa), and Ghiradelli Semi-Sweet Chips. Whether you use two or three different kinds of chocolate chips may not matter as much as the quality of chocolate chip chosen. You can't go wrong with any combination of Guittard and Ghiradelli chocolate chips.


In the bowl of a standing mixer with a paddle attachment the butter, both sugars, the vanilla, the baking powder, the baking soda, the kosher salt, and the pinch of freshly grated nutmeg are added in all at once. Yes, some of the dry ingredients are mixed in with the butter and sugar. The entire mixture is beaten at medium speed for almost eight minutes. The reward for this longer than usual beating time is the softest, fluffiest, most pale cookie dough batter. The out of refrigerator eggs are added one at a time, beaten only each is incorporated. And just like the flour gets mixed in all at once, so do the chocolate chips and nuts. Is your head spinning yet? If not, it will be shortly.


This recipe makes eight, yes eight, cookies. Each weighing approximately six ounces or two ounces short of a half pound. We are talking huge, ginormous, slightly more than 4 inches in diameter chocolate chip cookies here. Almost too big for one person to eat by themselves. I said almost.


So were these Gigantic Chocolate Chip Cookies worth any angst I may have felt dividing my loyalty and love between two different chocolate chip cookie recipes? The answer is an emphatic, completely guilt-free YES! Who am I? Obviously someone who should be wearing a chocolate chip cookie scarlet letter.

When compared to my other favorite chocolate chip cookie, I must tell you, in defense of my behavior, these are a completely different kind of chocolate chip cookie. They are chocolate chip cookie insanity. And here is why this recipe works. A lower proportion of sugar to flour helps to reduce the cookie's spread and keeps them thick. Less sugar than flour and more chocolate chips than sugar both contribute to keeping the cookies thick without making them taste cakey. The 12 hour (overnight) refrigeration period hydrates the flour, again contributing to the cookie's thickness. Blending different kinds of chocolate chips creates an incredible texture.


It's bigger, richer, more chocolatey. A cookie definitely not for the faint of heart and one probably best shared with a big glass of ice cold milk.


Stella Parks recommending eating these cookies while they are still warm. It seemed pointless not to listen to her advice. (You can reheat them in the low oven if they get to room temperature or if you kept them in a tightly sealed container for up to two days.) Although I wouldn't walk away from a room temperature Gigantic Chocolate Chip Cookie.


There is room as well as a time and place in our lives for both Tara's Chocolate Chip Cookies and these Gigantic Chocolate Chip Cookies. And honestly if I were selling them, my first thought is they are priceless. My second thought is a price tag of $5.00 almost wouldn't reflect their worth.

In the next couple of weeks I am having some friends over for dinner. My plan was to make the Buttermilk Panna Cotta with Ginger Cardamom Rhubarb Compote for dessert. What is it they say about the best laid plans?

Recipe
Gigantic Chocolate Chip Cookies (inspired by Stella Parks Super-Thick Chocolate Chip Cookie recipe)
Makes 8 ginormous cookies

Ingredients
1/2 cup (8 Tablespoons, 113 g) unsalted butter, room temperature
1/2 cup (113 g) light brown sugar, firmly packed
1/2 cup (100 g) granulated sugar
1 Tablespoon vanilla
2 teaspoons kosher salt
1 3/4 teaspoons baking powder
1 teaspoon baking soda
Pinch of freshly grated nutmeg
2 large eggs, straight from the refrigerator
2 1/4 cups (283 g) all-purpose flour
2 1/2 cups (15 ounces, 425 g), assorted semi-sweet and bittersweet chocolate chips
8 ounces (240 g) raw walnut pieces (or 8 ounces lightly toasted pecan pieces)
Optional: Flaky sea salt for finishing

Directions
1. In the bowl of standing mixer fitted with a paddle attachment, add the butter, brown sugar, granulated sugar, vanilla, salt, baking powder, baking soda, and nutmeg. 
2. Mix on low to moisten the ingredients, then increase speed to medium. Continue to beat until soft, fluffy and pale (approximately 8 minutes). Halfway through pause to scrape bowl and beater with a spatula.
3. With mixer running, add in eggs one at a time, letting each fully incorporate before adding the next one.
4. Reduce the mixer speed to low. Add in the flour all at once. When flour is incorporated add the chocolate chips and nuts, mixing the dough until it is homogenous.
5. Divide the dough into 8 equal portions (6 ounces/170g each). Round each mound into a smooth ball. Wrap in plastic wrap and refrigerate at least 12 hours before baking. Note: If well protected the dough will be good in the refrigerator for several days.
6. Adjust oven rack to middle position and preheat oven to 350 degrees (F). Line two sheet pans with parchment paper. 
7. Place only 4 cookies on the pan, leaving ample space between them to account for the spread. Note: If adding, top with coarse sea salt. Note: Bake only tray of cookies at a time.
8. Bake until cookies are puffed and light brown, approximately 22-24 minutes. Rotate baking pan midway through and lightly tamp down the baking pan. Note: I also lightly tamped the baking pan with about 4 minutes left of baking time.
9. Cool cookies on baking sheet for 10 minutes. Serve warm or within 12 hours of baking. Note: These cookies taste best when freshly baked. However, they can be stored in an airtight container at room temperature for up to 2 days. Rewarm briefly in a 350 degree (F) oven before serving.

Notes: (1) Stella Parks is a big fan of Gold Medal all-purpose flour. For these cookies, I used Gold Medal Flour. Because, like, duh? (2) I would never walk away from a room temperature gigantic chocolate chip cookie and neither should you. (3) Stella Parks using an American versus European-style unsalted butter for these cookies. I have used both kinds and love them equally.