Sunday, August 10, 2014

Blueberry and Rye Slab Pie


Every time I open Facebook or Twitter there is another one of those quick, fun, non-scientific, the kind that appeals to your curiosity surveys to take. You know the ones, answer ten questions to find out things like which Southern city do you belong in (New Orleans), which Game of Thrones character you would be (not telling), which dessert reflects your personality (popsicle, really?), what city should you actually live in (Cape Town) and in honor of Shark week which shark you would be (does anyone really want to be a shark?). But of all of the surveys out there, I have yet to see one about which pie best reflects you. If there isn't one already out there, there is probably someone is sitting in a room somewhere creating one now. My faith in these surveys would be completely lost (not to worry, I really don't take any of these surveys seriously) if I don't get 'any pie having a rustic look to it'. For me, nothing is more visually appealing than a pie that looks homemade. And the more homemade it looks, the better. Maybe this affinity for homemade looking pies has something to do with my pie making abilities. Or maybe not.


The excitement that came with the discovery of a free form fruit slab pie recipe was on par with the exhilaration that comes from reading a great book, seeing a great movie, or listening to a great soundtrack. When I saw food blogger Yossy Arefi's creation and recipe for Blueberry and Rye Slab Pie, I was immediately smitten (as smitten as one could be with a pie that is). Yet for a brief millisecond I wondered if making one more blueberry dessert this summer was one blueberry dessert too many. One look at and one taste of the finished slab pie had me thinking of one of my favorite mantras 'there is no such thing as too much of a good thing'. 

I decided to make the Blueberry and Rye Slab Pie for a family gathering my childhood best friend was having.  More often than not I usually ask if there is anything I can bring when invited over for dinner. But this time I purposely didn't ask or offer as I wanted the slab pie to be an unexpected surprise (and had it not turned out, well the surprise would have been on me). Based on everyone's reaction to seeing (and tasting) it, I can say with a pretty high degree of certainty the mission was accomplished. And judging by how much of it was left, I would have to say the rustic looking slab did not disappoint.


In making the Blueberry and Rye Slab Pie, I used Yossy's dough recipe (which is actually based on a recipe created by Kim Boyce in her book 'Good to the Grain'). However, until I develop a knack for creating pie dough by hand I continue to rely on the food processor. What makes this pie dough different from most others is the use of both all-purpose and dark rye flours. Having never made a dough with rye flour before I wondered 'was it going to taste like rye bread?' (it didn't). Instead it added a great flavor and helped to create a beautiful brown baked crust.

With the flours weighed and butter mixed in, I began by adding only 8 Tablespoons of the ice cold water along with the 1 Tablespoon of apple cider vinegar. It took only one additional Tablespoon of ice water for the dough to come together.

The dough should be refrigerated for at least two hours or overnight, time constraints had me chilling it for only an hour. If I would have done one thing differently it would have been be to allow the dough to sit out for about five minutes before rolling it out.


I made substantial changes to the filling recipe which turned into a hybrid of several different blueberry filling recipes. I loved how the cornstarch worked in the Blueberry and Peach Crisp, so I used it instead of all-purpose flour. Cinnamon and blueberries are one of my favorite flavor combinations and I couldn't bring myself to using ginger instead. Rather than use lemon zest only I added a generous Tablespoon of freshly squeezed lemon juice. And lastly, I replaced the one cup of granulated sugar with equal amounts of demerara and granulated sugars. The result was a a perfectly thickened, just the right amount of sweetness filling.

In a preheated 400 degree oven the slab pie is baked for 35-45 minutes (my baking time was almost the full 45 minutes) or until the filling is bubbling and the crust is a deep golden brown. But before baking the entire slab is brushed with an egg wash and sprinkled with a white sanding sugar. Not only do sanding sugars have a coarser grain than granulated sugar, they add great sparkle to baked goods.

As hard as you might try to crimp down the edges of the crust, some of the filling will ooze out. For me that just added to the rustic beauty of this slab pie and it just seemed to scream 'I am homemade!' when served.

After making this blueberry and rye slab pie I am faced with conundrum, but not necessarily a bad one to be faced with. The next time I pick up blueberries from the market do I make a blueberry pie, blueberry and peach crisp, blueberry crisp or the blueberry and rye slab pie? Decisions, decisions. 

Recipe
Blueberry and Rye Slab Pie

Ingredients
Dough
9 ounces dark rye flour (recommend Bob's Red Mill Dark Rye Flour)
9 ounces all-purpose flour
1 teaspoon Kosher salt
12 ounces (3 sticks) unsalted butter, cold, cut into tablespoons
8-12 Tablespoons ice cold water
1 Tablespoon apple cider vinegar

Filling
5 cups (2 1/2 pints) fresh blueberries
1/2 cup demerara sugar
1/2 cup granulated sugar
4 Tablespoons cornstarch
1 teaspoon Saigon cinnamon
1 teaspoon vanilla paste (or vanilla extract)
1 Tablespoon freshly squeezed lemon juice
1/2 teaspoon lemon zest
Pinch of Kosher salt

Finish
1 large egg
2 1/2-3 Tablespoons white sanding sugar (or other coarse grain sugar)

Directions
1. To make the crust: Mix the flours and salt together in the food processor. Add in butter and process until the butter is broken up into small pieces (think the size of small peas). Mix together 8 tablespoons of cold water and 1 tablespoon of apple cider vinegar. Add to flour mixture pulsing until the dough begins to form. If necessary add in additional ice water one tablespoon at a time (do not exceed 12 tablespoons). Divide the dough in half, wrap in plastic wrap and chill for at least two hours or up to a day. Allow to sit out at least 5 minutes before rolling.
2. Preheat oven to 400 degrees. Line a large baking sheet with parchment paper and set aside.
3. In a large bowl, mix together the blueberries, sugars, cornstarch, cinnamon, vanilla paste, lemon juice, lemon zest and Kosher salt. Set aside.
4. On a lightly floured surface roll out one piece of the dough into a rough 9 x 12 inch rectangle. Transfer to baking sheet and place in the refrigerator while rolling out second piece of dough.
5. Roll out second piece of dough into another 9 x 12 rectangle. Cut dough into generous 1 inch strips. 
6. Remove dough from the refrigerator and spread blueberry mixture on top leaving at least an inch border along the edges.
7. Using the strips of dough, create a lattice top on top of the blueberry mixture. Fold up the bottom edge of the dough over the top of the lattice strips and seal by pressing firmly with a fork. Place the slab in the refrigerator or freezer until the crust is very firm.
8. Remove slab for the refrigerator or freezer, brush with a beaten egg and sprinkle generously with the sanding sugar.
9. Bake for 35-45 minutes or until the crust is a deep golden brown and the filling juices are bubbling.
10. Cool slightly. Cut into squares and serve with vanilla ice cream or freshly whipped cream.


Thursday, August 7, 2014

Tomato, Onion, and Roasted Lemon Salad


From sandwiches made with warm, ripe tomatoes, white bread, some sea salt and mayonnaise to a salad made of any size or variety of tomato dressed ever so lightly in olive oil and fresh herbs, summer tomatoes ramp up the flavor of these simple creations to exponential levels. There are probably only three, maybe four months a year I eat or rather overdose on fresh tomatoes. For the remaining nine months of the year I go on a (fresh) tomato fast rather than take a bite of any of the tomato impostors found in the grocery stores from October through June. If only going on a carbohydrate or chocolate fast could be as easy.

Summer also happens to be that time of the year when you hope friends and/or neighbors will keep you in mind when their tomato plants yield a harvest even the most zealous of all tomato aficionados are unable to consume. But in the event your friends/neighbors don't garden or you don't have friends/neighbors who garden, thankfully there are farmer's markets selling an ever increasing variety of tomatoes. And in recent years, the availability of my newest favorite heirloom tomatoes has grown significantly.


When I saw Yotam Ottolenghi's Tomato, Onion, and Roasted Lemon Salad on the cover of Bon Appetit's August issue, I had to keep myself from drooling in public. Before even opening the magazine to look at the recipe, I anticipated a new kind of transformational simplicity would be brought to the tomato salad as only as Ottolenghi could. He did not disappoint. Actually he never disappoints.


It had to be either fortuitous or knowingly deliberate when I chose to plant mint, parsley and sage in my garden containers earlier this spring. Had I known there would be a tomato salad recipe calling for these three herbs, I wouldn't have used so many containers for flowers. Because when one thinks of a tomato salad one doesn't normally think of mint, parsley or sage. But that is the genius of Ottolenghi. 


Lemon slices tossed in extra-virgin olive oil, barely the hint of sugar and sage are roasted in the oven. With the bitterness of the lemons removed from a quick boil before roasting, they add yet another dimension of flavor to the salad. Whether you use a lemon or a Meyer lemon may not matter, but if you have a choice, chose the Meyer lemon.


When I looked at the dressing ingredients, I wondered if one tablespoon of extra virgin olive oil, one tablespoon of pomegranate molasses, some allspice, salt and pepper to dress one and one-half pounds of tomatoes was enough. Again, why I even questioned Ottolenghi's wisdom was pure silliness. Not only was it enough, it was the perfect amount of dressing to bring out, yet not mask the flavors of the tomatoes, sliced red onion, roasted lemon and herbs.


When it was mixed together it truly is a feast for the eyes. Honestly if it was not an Ottolenghi recipe I may not have taken the 'risk' to make it. Until I took my first bite I was wondering how to wrap my head around what a salad dressing using allspice and pomegranate molasses would taste like. The explosion of flavors of this salad and its' dressing turned out to be nothing short of amazing. 


The Tomato, Onion, and Roasted Lemon Salad could be served along with a fresh baguette as the main course for lunch or as a side to accompany chicken, fish and even red meat for dinner. The lemon slices can be roasted earlier in the day, however, this is a salad at its' best when served freshly tossed. Should there be any leftovers, cover and refrigerate them so you can enjoy them all by yourself. Some leftovers were not meant to be shared. Not only would this be one of them, you can safely drool over this salad in the privacy of your own home. 

Recipe
Tomato, Onion, and Roasted Lemon Salad (barely a change to Yotam Ottolenghi's recipe shared in Bon Appetit)

Ingredients
1 lemon, halved lengthwise, thinly sliced, seeds removed (recommend using a Meyer lemon)
1 Tablespoon fresh sage leaves, thinly sliced
1/2 teaspoon superfine sugar
2 Tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, divided
1 Tablespoon pomegranate molasses
1/2 teaspoon ground allspice
1 1/2 pounds mixed small tomatoes, halved (suggest a mixture of  heirloom, cherry, and Sun Gold)
1/2 small red onion, thinly sliced
1/4 cup fresh flat leaf parsley leaves with stems
1/4 cup fresh mint leaves, torn if large
1/4 cup arugula microgreens or purple sprouts (optional)
Kosher salt and freshly ground pepper

Directions
1. Preheat oven to 325 degrees.
2. In a medium saucepan of boiling water, cook lemon slices for two minutes to remove bitterness. Drain and pat dry.
3. Toss lemon slices, sage, sugar, and 1 Tablespoon of extra-virgin olive oil in a medium bowl. Spread on a parchment paper lined baking sheet. Bake for 15-20 minutes or until lemons are no longer wet and only slightly colored. Allow to cool.
4. Whisk together pomegranate molasses, allspice and remaining 1 Tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil in  a large bowl. Season with Kosher salt and freshly ground pepper.
5. Add lemons, tomatoes, onion, parsley, mint, and micro-greens (or sprouts). Toss gently. Season with salt and pepper. Serve immediately.

Note: When looking for pomegranate molasses in your grocery store, look first in the aisle with Middle Eastern and/or Mediterranean foods. 

Monday, August 4, 2014

S'mores Fudge Tart


Great, memorable endings to a dinner, particularly one celebrating a birthday, almost always involve chocolate. At least in our family. So I have no idea what was I thinking when I asked my niece if she wanted a blueberry crisp with vanilla ice cream or a s'mores fudge tart for her birthday 'cake'. I knew the answer to the question before I even asked it. There are just moments when it is hard to resist asking the rhetorical question. Almost as hard as it is to resist chocolate.

Last year my niece and I celebrated her birthday on Martha's Vineyard. From the ferry tide, to the harrowing bike ride to Edgartown, to swimming in the ocean amongst the tiny, initially a little scary but harmless jellyfish, it was a memorable, weather perfect, fun day. So making this year's birthday equally as memorable was going to be a bit of challenge. Every birthday is 'special' but maybe one's 19th birthday is not meant to be same as their 18th birthday. Or maybe this is an example of some my warped rationalization thinking.


The least I could do was try to make the birthday dinner both special and memorable. If I have learned anything over the years is that it is not always the 'gifts' received we remember, it is events, the moments that stay with us. So this year, I had to come up with an event or series of events to make a birthday we reminisce about years down the road. One of my thoughts was as part of her birthday celebration she and I would make her birthday dinner and 'cake' together. I wouldn't go so far as to say we are a 'foodie' family but we are family that loves to try new recipes and make memorable meals. So spending time cooking and creating in the kitchen is something we actually enjoy.

While there was much thought that went into planning the menu, our pièce de résistance would be the dessert, the S'Mores Fudge Tart. And I would have to say if there was at least one memorable moment in the making of the tart it would be when the propane torch was used to burn the meringue topping. Was there a moment when she thought I would either set her on fire or burn the house down? Probably yes.


This S'mores Fudge Tart uses two kinds of chocolate: semi-sweet and unsweetened cocoa. The combination of the two chocolates make the fudge-like filling to the tart taste decadent. Pecans were the nuts of choice for this tart, but walnuts or even macadamia nuts would work.


The difference between a graham cracker crust made with freshly crushed graham crackers or boxed graham cracker crumbs is like the difference between diamond and cubic zirconia earrings, like pancakes from scratch and pancakes from a mix, like freshly grilled corn and cooked frozen corn on the cob, like a 'real' mayonnaise and Miracle Whip. In other words, you immediately know the difference when you either see it or taste it.

Two cups of freshly crushed graham cracker crumbs, a stick of melted butter, a quarter cup of sugar and a pinch of Kosher salt are mixed together and pressed into a nine inch springform pan (lined with parchment paper). There is enough of the mixture to line the bottom and bring the crumbs up two inches on the sides of the pan. Unlike most other pies and tarts with a graham cracker crust, this one is not pre-baked.


The batter of the tart begins with melting the butter and semi-sweet chocolate in the microwave oven. The remaining batter ingredients are whisked in until blended and poured into the prepared crust.


In a preheated 350 degree oven the s'mores fudge tart is baked for 60 to 75 minutes or until a toothpick inserted in the center of the tart comes out clean. My baking time was 60 minutes and I am pretty certain I would not bake it any longer as the filling was perfectly moist.

Once baked, the tart needs to come to room temperature for two reasons. The first being it is much easier to remove from the springform pan when it has cooled, the second being the meringue topping will not melt or slide off.


Traditionally s'mores are made with toasted or roasted marshmallows. But the meringue topping elevated this version of s'mores to the 'over the top' celebration worthy place.

I used a 1/4 inch (6 mm) round tip to decorate the top of the tart as I wanted the meringue to look pillowy as well as to mimic a marshmallow topping (although one bite of this meringue will make you forget the marshmallows). However, you could also use a star tip to create a 'fancier' s'mores tart topping, similar to the one on the Lemon Meringue Tart. The meringue can either be burnt with a propane torch or in an oven set to broil. My preference is for using the propane torch as you have much better control over how much 'burnt' you want your meringue to be (and it is one of the few things in life I have control over).

There is enough of the fudge frosting to drizzle over the top of the tart as well as to serve warm with it. The amount of fudge drizzle you put on is all about personal preference. The s'mores tart is finished with chopped pecans (or whatever nuts you place on top of the crust).


Seriously this s'mores fudge tart and its' multiple layers is insanely delicious. It is the perfect 'celebration' dessert, particularly if you also have a family with a predisposition to all things chocolate. In the middle of winter when you are craving the taste of s'mores but don't live in a climate conducive to making them, this s'mores fudge tart will transport you back to summer as well as bring out the 'kid' who still remembers the taste of their first s'mores.


Just one word of warning. It may be hard for anyone in my family to remember the homemade guacamole, artichoke dip, fish tacos, and creamy roasted street corn made for the birthday dinner now that the meal ended with this tart. A dinner you put together may have a similar outcome. Secretly my only hope is that years from now my niece will remember not just her birthday 'cake' but the time we spent together celebrating her 19th birthday.

Recipe
S'mores Fudge Tart (adaptation of Southern Living's Mississippi Mud S'mores Fudge Pie)

Ingredients
Crust
2 cups freshly crushed graham crackers
1/2 cup (1 stick) unsalted butter, melted
1/4 cup granulated sugar
pinch of Kosher salt
3/4 cup chopped pecans (plus 1/2 cup chopped nuts for sprinkling on top of tart) (Other nut options: walnuts or macadamia nuts)

Batter
1 cup (2 sticks) unsalted butter
4 ounces semi-sweet chocolate, chopped
2 cups granulated sugar
1 1/2 cups all-purpose flour
1/2 cup unsweetened cocoa (I used Hershey's Special Dark cocoa, but also suggest using Droste cocoa)
4 large eggs, room temperature
1 teaspoon vanilla
3/4 teaspoon Kosher salt

Meringue
5 egg whites, room temperature
1 cup superfine sugar
1/2 teaspoon vanilla
1/4 teaspoon Kosher salt

Chocolate Frosting
1/4 cup unsalted butter
3 Tablespoons unsweetened cocoa
4-5 Tablespoons whole milk (plus additional if needed)
1 1/2 cups confectionary sugar, sifted
1/2 teaspoon vanilla

Directions
Preheat oven to 350 degrees (F). Line a 9 inch springform pan with parchment paper and set aside.

Crust
1. In a medium size bowl, stir graham cracker crumbs, melted butter, sugar and pinch of Kosher salt until well blended.
2. Press mixture on bottom and up 2 inches on sides of prepared springform pan. 
3. Sprinkle 3/4 cup chopped pecans on top of crust.
4. Set crust aside.

Batter
1. In a medium size bowl, melt semi-sweet chocolate and one cup of butter in microwave until melted and smooth.
2. Whisk in flour, unsweetened cocoa, eggs, vanilla, Kosher salt and granulated sugar into chocolate mixture until blended.
3. Pour batter into prepared crust. Note: This is very thick batter.
4. Place tart in the 350 degree (F) pre-heated oven for 60 to 75 minutes or until wooden pick inserted in center comes out clean. (NOTE: My baking time was 60 minutes. Cooled tart should be moist.)
5. Allow tart to cool to room temperature.
6. Remove from springform pan and place on platter or cake stand.

Meringue Topping
1. In the bowl of a standing mixer fitted with a whisk attachment, beat egg whites until frothy. Slowly add sugar, salt and vanilla and continue beating on medium-high until stiff peaks form.
2. Put meringue in a pastry bag fitted with a circular tip and create design of your choice onto meringue filling (or spread using an offset spatula). 
3. Using a kitchen torch, carefully adjust flame over the meringue until it is golden brown and deeply caramelized in spots. Or place tart under the broiler and bake for 20 to 60 seconds until it is golden brown and deeply caramelized in spots.
4. Allow pie to cool completely in the refrigerator before slicing and serving.
Note: Can substitute this meringue with a Swiss Meringue.

Chocolate Frosting
1. In a medium sized saucepan, cook butter, unsweetened cocoa and milk over medium heat, whisking constantly, for 4 minutes or until slightly thickened.
2. Whisk in 1 1/2 cups confectionary sugar and vanilla until smooth. (Note: Frosting should be pourable. Add more milk to thin if necessary.)
3. Drizzle some of the frosting over the top of finished meringue.
4. Sprinkle remaining 1/2 cup of chopped pecans over top.
5. Serve remaining warm frosting on side and/or drizzle on plate before placing a slice of the tart on.

Sunday, July 27, 2014

Peach and Blueberry Crisp (Gluten Free Version)


Cobblers, grunts, slumps, buckles, brown bettys, crumbles, pandowdies, pies, and crisps all have one thing in common. Their ability to transform fruit into bites of sinful, crazy good, satisfying, wonderful deliciousness. Out of all of these, the crisp has always been my most favorite 'fruit' comfort food dessert (pies are running a very close second). Served warm with some vanilla ice cream, a crisp instantly makes me feel warm, cozy, weight of the world lifted off my shoulders content.

For the most part I generally lean toward making one fruit only crisps. As I looked at all of the cartons of fruits so perfectly displayed at the farmer's market, it was as if the universe seemed to saying to me 'it's time to expand your crisp making repertoire'. Who am I not to listen to the voice of the universe? But which combination of fruits would take me outside of my 'crisp' comfort zone and still be able to put me in a Zen-like, not a care in the world state? Peaches and blueberries. Not because orange and blue are the colors of my alma mater (although that isn't such a bad reason), but because I just happen to love both of these fruits.

In making the peach and blueberry crisp I wanted and knew I needed to do more than just add peaches to my blueberry crisp recipe. With a determination bordering on zealousness, I wanted there to be a discernible difference between the two crisps. I thought using oat flour instead of all-purpose would give the crisp topping a nuttier flavor as well as make the crisp gluten-free. Mixing demerara sugar into the fruit instead of brown or granulated sugar would add a hint of toffee flavor to the filling. Because peaches release more liquid that blueberries, using (more) cornstarch than flour would ensure the filling wasn't a baked soupy mess. The cornstarch would also have the added benefit of keeping the crisp gluten-free. And using sea salt instead of Kosher salt would further enhance the flavors of fruit.

Back to gluten free for a second. I have (incorrectly) perceived that anything and everything gluten free must not taste nearly as good as if it contained gluten. This Peach and Blueberry Crisp defies that rather narrowly held perception.


Some crisp recipes using peaches call for blanching and removing their skins before slicing. Not this one. The peach skins add flavor, color and texture. Besides crisps are supposed to be simple to make.


Think seasonally when making any fruit dessert. Fruits are always best for eating and cooking when they are at peak season, however, this should never ever dissuade you from making fruit desserts year round. More than the sometimes hard to justify price, some fruits available during off seasons in the grocery stores just don't seem to taste as good (another bias). Fortunately frozen fruit will have a very similar texture to fresh when baked.

When making any fruit dessert, all of the fruit needs to be at the same temperature as the baking times for fresh and frozen fruits vary. Frozen fruit lowers the temperature of filling resulting in longer baking times. So if combining fresh and frozen in the same recipe, one of the fruits may end up being undercooked and the other one being overcooked. Additionally, frozen fruit requires a slight increase in the amount of thickener (i.e., cornstarch or flour) so if fresh and frozen are mixed in a recipe calling only for fresh fruit, the result could be a soupy filling.


This Peach and Blueberry crisp is baked for approximately 50 minutes in a pre-heated 375 degree oven. The crisp is done when the topping is a deep golden brown and the filling is bubbling at the sides or in the center. As hard as it may be to resist, allow it to rest at least 15 minutes before serving. Covered with towels, the crisp can be kept warm for almost an hour.


In anticipation of getting a serious craving for Peach and Blueberry Crisp this winter, I had better stock up on some more blueberries and learn how to freeze peaches. Nothing sounds and feels better than to be momentarily transported back to the warm, sunny days of summer in the middle of a cold, snowy winter.
Recipe
Peach and Blueberry Crisp  (Gluten Free Version)

Ingredients
Topping
2/3 cup oat flour (or can use all-purpose flour)
1 cup old-fashioned oats (not instant)
8 Tablespoons (1 stick) unsalted butter, room temperature
1/2 teaspoon sea salt
1/2 cup light brown sugar
1/2 teaspoon cinnamon

Fruit Mixture
3-4 yellow, ripe peaches, halved, seeded and cut into slices (skin remains on) (about 1 to 1 1/4 pounds)
3 cups fresh blueberries (or 3 cups frozen blueberries defrosted)
1 Tablespoon fresh lemon juice
3 Tablespoons cornstarch
1/4 cup demerara sugar
1/4 teaspoon cinnamon
pinch of sea salt

Optional: Serve with whipped cream or ice cream.

Directions
1. Preheat oven to 375 degrees. Lightly butter a deep oval or 8x10 baking dish.
2. In a medium sized bowl, combine all topping ingredients. Mix until combined. Set aside.
3. In a large bowl, combine all fruit ingredients.
4. Pour fruit mixture into prepared pan.
5. Sprinkle topping evenly over the fruit.
6. Bake for 50 minutes or until top is a deep golden brown and filling is bubbling at the edges.
7. Serve warm with either whipped cream or vanilla ice cream.


If breaking away from routines gives us a chance to experience something new, why is it so hard to make these shifts? Maybe it's because some changes are viewed as being paramount to causing an end of the world apocalypse. And I get that. Just the thought of increasing my mileage on the treadmill somedays is enough to make me feel as if I will be putting my life at risk (such head games I can play with myself). Not being able to have turkey on Thanksgiving makes my heart race uncontrollably fast. Eating pancakes without butter (I gave up syrup years ago) is enough to cause me to consider having a meltdown. Okay, maybe I am guilty of slightly exaggerating (except for the Thanksgiving Day one).

As I look back to when I was working full-time there were many days when I said I could not leave my desk to go out to lunch or I could not take a day off or I could not leave early or I didn't make time to spend time with friends (only now are some of my family and friends beginning to tell me how inaccessible I was). The world would not have ended if I had done or not done any of those things (as much as I had myself believe at the time). I would have figured out how to get the work done. Maybe the universe was telling me to find a better work-life balance and maybe I wasn't listening (or didn't want to). Who knew the universe could be so wise? Well, the Peach and Blueberry Crisp answered that question.

Wednesday, July 23, 2014

Fish Tacos with Chipotle Slaw


For some reason making the Fish Tacos with Chipotle Slaw caused me to take a (very long) walk down memory lane back to my summer job college days. And I should warn you, it may not be what you first think. It's probably not what you might think at all. After working full-time either on the day or night shift, my weekends were filled laboring in a restaurant serving everything from breakfast to carrying heavy banquet trays. Yet, the most memorable of all of these 'thankfully lasting only twelve weeks' jobs was working the second shift 'on the line' in the Cracker Jack factory. Whether it was stuffing the toys in the boxes (dizzying work) or packaging up marshmallows (physically challenging work), at the end of each day or night I counted my blessings at having the privilege of being able to go to college. Way back when Cracker Jack was made in Chicago the wind often carried the aroma of the caramel corn for miles from the factory. As a kid this smell was intoxicating, inhaling it five days (nights) a week, eight hours a day was a completely different story.

For the most part, the 'college summer help' were treated well by those who made their living working there day in and day out. I would have never survived a week, let alone an entire summer, on the 'stuffing toys in the boxes' line if it were not for the Polish women who took me under their wing. They continuously saved me while I figured out how to keep my balance on a stool while simultaneously using ALL of my fingers and thumbs trying to get the toys into the slots of a conveyer contraption that moved at what seemed like warp speed. Once I got over the nausea from the motion sickness and stopped causing 'the line' to be shut down because I jammed the conveyer, I could hold my own as a team member amongst the women who took great pride in accomplishing the nightly quota goals.

First layering a piece of beer battered tilapia on warmed corn tortillas, topping with some of the slaw, drizzling with the creamy, smoky lime-chipotle sauce, and garnishing with additional cilantro microgreens creates the most beautiful Fish Tacos. Doing the dizzying work of putting together a platter of these tacos while the fish was still hot and crispy was what had me remembering my 'assembly line' Cracker Jack days. What I would have done to have some 'summer help' in the kitchen.

These tacos would be what I would call one of those 'at least a two person' (assembly line) recipes. Better yet, it is a perfect dish when having friends over for dinner who like getting involved (and when you like them getting involved) in the meal.


My relative reluctance at making any recipe where deep frying is involved has probably caused me to miss out on making some really good, memorable meals. My love of fish tacos is responsible for getting me to finally take a deep breath and just dive into the deep frying world. One bite of these fish tacos was enough keep me from ever being so dismissive over food preparation techniques again. Oh, the things we miss out on when we have preconceived notions or don't move outside of our comfort zones.


The slaw topping the fish is made with green cabbage, red cabbage, white onion, radishes, cilantro, mayonnaise, and salt. You can choose to make it with only green cabbage, however, the added flavor and color dimension of the red cabbage to the slaw is pass up. Choose the smallest cabbages you can find because you not need full heads for this recipe.


The cabbages and white onion are thinly sliced while the radishes are cut into matchsticks. This would be one of those times when it helps to have a good, sharp knife.

At the farmer's market I found some cilantro microgreens. Ever so slightly milder in flavor than full grown cilantro, I thought they would be perfect in the slaw and as a garnish on the tacos. Had I not found these microgreens, I would have used freshly chopped cilantro. Honestly, I have never been a big fan of cilantro. Actually that would be a slight understatement. I have generally avoided it all costs. In addition to overcoming my avoidance over deep frying, I am finally coming to appreciate and like the flavors of this herb.


To assemble the slaw you must first make the sauce. Mayonnaise, freshly squeezed lime juice, chopped chipotle peppers and salt are mixed together. The longer you allow the sauce marinate the more heat and smokiness to the sauce (learned this when tasting the sauce the next day). At a minimum  let the sauce chill in the refrigerator at least an hour before you begin making the tacos which is enough time for the flavors to begin to develop. A generous quarter cup of the sauce lightly dresses the slaw and the remaining sauce is used to drizzle over the fish tacos.


Fish tacos can be made with red snapper, cod, tilapia or any other light to medium fish. For this recipe I used the light, flaky, and mild in flavor tilapia. The fish fillets are cut into 1 inch by 5 inch strips, sprinkled with salt before they are floured, dipped into the beer batter and deep fried.


The batter for the fish is made with flour, salt and beer. The obvious and best choice of beer is a Mexican lager (think Dos Equis XX). Once all mixed together the batter rests for fifteen minutes.

The fillets are first dredged in flour then coated in the batter before being gently placed in vegetable oil heated to a temperature of 375 degrees. Within 4 to 5 minutes or until golden brown, the fish should be fully cooked. To maintain the temperature of the oil fry only 4 to 5 pieces of the fish at a time. Once cooked, the fish is placed on paper towels to drain.

Yellow or white corn (soft) six inch tortillas are heated on a flat skillet and kept warm wrapped in a towel while you deep fry the fish.


Every layer of these tacos was mouthwatering scrumptious. They are relatively easy to make (as long as you have some help). Served with some icy cold beer (Mexican of course) or margaritas (made with your favorite tequila) they just might be one of the best meals you will make all summer. So don't let either the thought of deep frying or all of the parts to this recipe keep you from making them.

Whether you choose to bring a platter of assembled Fish Tacos with Chipotle Slaw to the table or serve all of the taco components buffet style, they taste best while the fish is still hot and crispy.

The next time I make these fish tacos I just might put out some bowls of caramel corn. Just for the fun of it, as a reminder to all of the things I learned way back when.
Recipe
Fish Tacos with Chipotle Slaw (slight adaptation to Fine Cooking's Baja Fried Fish Taco recipe)

Ingredients
Sauce
1 cup mayonnaise (recommend Duke's or Hellman's)
3 Tablespoons minced canned chipotle peppers in adobo sauce
2 Tablespoons fresh lime juice
1/4 teaspoon Kosher salt

Cabbage slaw
2 cups thinly sliced red cabbage
2 cups thinly sliced green cabbage
1/2 cup thinly sliced white onion
4 radishes, cut into thin matchsticks
2 - 3 Tablespoons of cilantro microgreens (or 2 Tablespoons freshly chopped cilantro)
Generous 1/4 cup of the Sauce

Batter
1 1/2 cups Mexican lager, such as Dos Equis XX
1 1/2 cups all-purpose flour
1 1/2 teaspoons Kosher salt

Fish 
1 1/2 pounds tilapia fillets, cut into 5"x1" strips (other fish options include cod or red snapper)
3/4 teaspoon of Kosher salt
1/2 cup all-purpose flour

48 ounces vegetable oil
Additional cilantro microgreens or minced cilantro for serving

12-16 6 inch soft corn tortillas (yellow corn or white corn) - heated on griddle until hot then stacked n a cloth lined basket to keep warm
Lime wedges for serving

Directions
Sauce
1. Whisk together 1 cup mayonnaise, 3 Tablespoons minced chipotle peppers, 2 Tablespoons freshly squeezed lime juice and 1/4 teaspoon Kosher salt. Cover and refrigerate up to two hours.

Slaw
1. Mix together cabbages, radishes, onion, and cilantro in a medium-large bowl. Stir in a 1/4 cup of the sauce to lightly dress the vegetables (add more if 1/4 cup is not enough). Note: If making ahead, place vegetables in the refrigerator and mix in sauce just before serving.

Batter
1. Stir together 1 1/2 cups flour, 1 1/2 teaspoons Kosher salt and 1 1/2 cups Mexican lager beer in a medium bowl. Let stand for 15 minutes.

Fish
1. Heat vegetable oil over medium heat to 375 degrees in a 4 quart pot.
2. Toss the sliced fish with 3/4 teaspoon Kosher salt.
3. Put 1/2 cup all-purpose flour in a shallow bowl.
4. Working with several pieces of fish at a time, dredge in flour (shaking off excess), coat with batter and place in the oil.
5. Fry fish until golden and just cooked through (3 to 4 minutes).
6. Transfer to a paper-towel lined plate to drain. 

Assembly
Place a piece of fish on each warm tortilla, top with some of slaw, drizzle with additional sauce, and top with additional cilantro microgreens or minced cilantro. Serve with lime wedges.