Saturday, July 12, 2014

Lemon Meringue Tart


My plan was to make a Lemon Meringue Pie. My relatively recent success with making a pie crust has had me obsessing about making pies. Not wanting to be a one pie crust making wonder, the more practice I have the better the chances are that I can be a multiple pie crust making wonder. But I had taken some butter out to make cookies (using a recipe I wasn't able to find but really need to) and rather than have the butter go to waste I thought 'why not make a Lemon Meringue Tart instead', one with a shortbread crust. The pie making would just have to be temporarily delayed along with any gratification I might get from making a pie with a really great crust. 


What is not to love about the velvety, sweet, citrus flavor of a lemon custard (or curd) and a light, creamy, slightly burned, sweet meringue combined in one single confection? Hint: There is only one right, short answer to that question. If you said 'nothing' kudos to you for getting the right, short answer. If you paused and were feeling compelled to give a qualifying answer to the question (like 'nothing unless the lemon custard is just okay and the meringue doesn't have much taste'), kudos to you for getting the right, long answer. But after you make this Lemon Meringue Tart, you will never feel the need to give a long answer to that question again.

Lemon meringue has been a confection around since the 19th century. Some attribute the creation of combining lemon custard with meringue in a pie to Swiss baker Alexander Frehse while others claim Philadelphian chef Elizabeth Coane Goodfellow was responsible. Regardless of who may be the real lemon meringue creator (I shall remain neutral), it wasn't until the mid-20th century that lemon meringue pies/tarts began to take on a life of their own across the country. While I can't help but wonder what took so long for lemon meringue to catch on, I am just thankful I didn't live in that lemon meringue deprived 'beginning of the 19th century to the mid-20th century' time warp.


One of the great things about a Lemon Meringue Tart is that a single piece can be completely satisfying (except maybe for those of you who have an insatiable sweet tooth or an affinity bordering on addiction for lemon meringue). It is probably one of the only desserts on the planet whose sheer beauty cannot tempt me into over indulging (unlike other desserts that have the power to convince me to lose all self-control). If someone ever asked the rhetorical question 'What is enough for you?', my answer would simply be 'one piece of a Lemon Meringue Tart'.


The shortbread crust recipe came from Maury Rubin's Book of Tarts. The master recipe for the shortbread crust provided just the right amount of dough for a nine (9) inch tart pan.

All of the baking directions for the tarts in Rubin's book are for the smaller four (4) inch tarts, so I had to make some baking time decisions. The shortbread crust baked for 18-20 minutes in a pre-heated 375 degree oven. I had checked the tart shell midway through and noticed the sides had fallen slightly. Momentarily I thought maybe I should have made a pie, but after salvaging and tasting the tart shell any second thoughts I may have had quickly disappeared (this is one buttery, delicious shortbread crust). My shortbread crust making takeaway lesson is to decrease the baking temperature to 350 degrees and increase the baking time to 20-25 minutes or until the shell is lightly browned.


The average sized lemon yields approximately three (3) tablespoons of lemon juice. Store this little tidbit away in your memory as it may come in handy the day you find recipe that simply lists the juice of one, two or three lemons as one of the ingredients. My lemons were on the smaller size so I needed to use four of them to get a half-cup of lemon juice. And oh, always remember to zest your lemons before you juice them (another lesson learned after rushing through another recipe once a long time ago).

This lemon custard is perfect balance of creamy, velvety, sweet and tart. I am calling it a custard but it has some of the same qualities as a curd.


The cooked lemon custard is poured into the cooled tart shell. A piece of parchment paper or wax paper is placed on top of the custard and the entire tart is placed in the refrigerator while the meringue is assembled. It is important the custard has cooled before you finish with the meringue. Note: When you remove the wax paper/parchment paper it will pull up some of the custard. Not to worry, you want the top of the custard to be a little rough as it will help the meringue to adhere better.

I couldn't decide whether to make a Swiss meringue (the eggs and sugar are heated on top of double boiler until warm before they are whipped into stiff peaks in a mixer) or a regular meringue. I went with the regular meringue. To ensure my meringue would be smooth and not grainy I used superfine instead of granulated sugar. This meringue is simply whipped at medium-high speed until it is glossy and stiff peaks form.



If you are going for a bit of drama (in presentation), use a pastry bag fitted with a star tip to decorate the top of the lemon custard. If you are going for a rustic, comfort food look, just spread the meringue on the custard using an offset spatula. Whichever meringue finishing decision you make, just make sure the meringue completely covers the lemon custard.


I have never been a fan of using the broiler to 'slightly brown and caramelize' a meringue. If you are, great, simply place the tart under the broiler for 20-60 seconds or until it is golden brown and caramelized in parts. Rather I am a fan of using a propane torch. If you haven't tried this yet, you should. You don't need to spend alot of money on the torches sold cooking stores, the torches they sell in the hardware store work just as well (if not better) and they are usually half the price. 

Refrigerate the Lemon Meringue Tart until ready to serve. This tart is best the day it is made, however, the leftovers (if you have any) are just as delicious the next day. While you may be like me and are only able to eat only one piece on the day you serve it, you might not be able to resist having another piece, even if it is just a sliver, the next day. 

Recipe
Lemon Meringue Tart (inspirations for shortbread crust from Maury Rubin's Book of Tarts and lemon custard filling from foodblogger Yossy Arefi)

Ingredients
Crust
13 tablespoons unsalted butter, cut into 13 pieces and softened slightly
1/3 cup confectionary sugar
1 1/2 cups all-purpose flour
1 large egg yolk
1 Tablespoon heavy whipping cream

Lemon Custard Filling
1/2 cup freshly squeezed lemon juice
1 cup water
1 1//4 cups granulated sugar 
1/3 cup cornstarch
1/4 teaspoon Kosher salt
4 egg yolks, room temperature
4 Tablespoons unsalted butter
4 teaspoons lemon zest

Meringue
5 large egg whites, room temperature
1 cup superfine or caster sugar
1/2 teaspoon vanilla
1/4 teaspoon Kosher salt

Directions
Crust
1. Place confectionary sugar in bowl of a standing mixer fitted with a paddle attachment. Add butter and toss to coat.
2. Cream sugar and butter until sugar is completely blended into butter.
3. Add egg yolk and blend until completely incorporated.
4. Scrape down sides of bowl and mix in half of the flour until dough appears crumbly.
5. Add remaining flour and heavy cream and continue mixing until dough becomes a sticky mass.
6. Shape dough into a disk, wrap with plastic wrap and refrigerate for 2 hours.
7. Lightly flour a surface and roll out dough to fit the tart shell.
8. Transfer and fit dough into tart shell. Freeze for 30 minutes.
9. Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Bake for 20-25 minutes or until the tart shell is golden brown.
10. Remove from oven and allow to cool before filling is added.

Lemon Custard Filling
1. Whisk egg yolks in a medium sized bowl and set aside.
2. In a medium saucepan, combine and whisk cornstarch, water, lemon juice, sugar and salt together until no lumps remain in cornstarch.
3. Bring mixture to a boil (stirring frequently). At boiling point, continue to stir constantly for an additional 75 seconds. Mixture will be very thick.
4. Very, very slowly whisk in lemon mixture into egg mixture, stirring constantly (to prevent eggs from curdling). Return mixture to pan and continue to cook over low heat (stirring constantly) for 60 seconds. 
5. Remove from heat and whisk in butter and lemon zest.
6. Pour filling into cooled tart shell. Cover filling with wax paper or parchment paper (this will help meringue adhere later). 
7. Set in refrigerator while preparing meringue.

Meringue
1. In a standing mixer fitted with a whisk, beat eggs until frothy. Slowly add sugar, salt and vanilla and continue beating on medium-high until stiff peaks form.
2. Put meringue in a pastry bag fitted with a star tip and create design of your choice onto meringue filling (or spread using an offset spatula).
3. Using a torch, carefully adjust flame over the meringue until it is golden brown and deeply caramelized in spots. Or place tart under the broiler and bake for 20 to 60 seconds until it is golden brown and deeply caramelized in spots.
4. Remove pie from oven and cool completely in refrigerator before slicing and serving.
Note: Can substitute this meringue with a Swiss Meringue.