Tuesday, November 12, 2013

Sweet Dream Cookies

Waking up to snow this morning had me momentarily experience the (irrational) fear that I had slept through Thanksgiving and the Christmas holidays were already upon us. (And if you have gone into any store these days you might actually believe this fear was plausible.) Before I even begin to think about buying presents or decorating for the Christmas holidays, my pre-holiday thoughts are usually about which cookies I will be making for friends and gatherings. So that's where my early November morning thoughts took me. Invariably I know I will make the 'standards' and will also make a new cookie or one I hadn't made in awhile. This morning I decided I would return to making the Sweet Dream Cookies, a chocolate chip cookie dredged in confectionary sugar and containing the spices of cinnamon and ginger. This is a recipe taking chocolate chip cookies to a very different dimension of look and taste.


It has been a few years since I have made the Sweet Dreams, a cookie having rather strong memories on many levels. The year there was a cookie baking contest held at work was when the permanently instilled memory occurred. When I hear the words cookie and contest in the same sentence, my interest is generally peaked. Although I wasn't responsible for organizing the contest, I was given the responsibility for getting the judges. So I asked three local community leaders, who all just happened to be men (men and food seemed to be a combination that made sense at the time) to, in the spirit of community service, judge the Christmas cookies made by their local educators.


The Sweet Dream cookies were amongst the array of cookies in the contest. After all of the cookies were tasted and rated, the judges learned who made each of the cookies. Now I have to be honest and say I thought I would win this little competition hands down (a moment of unusually high confidence). So when the judges came down to my office their first words, said in harmony (and well rehearsed) were 'Don't quit your day job'.  Even though the Sweet Dreams weren't awarded first place (I think they came in third), to this day I still think they were the best cookie in the competition. Call me a conspiracy theorist, but I have convinced myself the judges were challenged to award the 'blue ribbon' to the person who recruited them, the person who was also one of their peers in the community. (Yes, I have had to rationalize this cookie contest 'loss' somehow.) Whatever memories that are created when you make this cookie, who knows what they will be, but you won't have any unless, of course, you make them.


There are two kinds of sugar in this cookie: brown sugar and confectionary sugar. The brown sugar is mixed into the batter while the confectionary sugar is reserved for rolling the balls of dough in before the cookies are baked.


What changes these cookies from chocolate chip cookies to Sweet Dreams are the spices ginger and cinnamon. Like the use of sea salt elevates the taste of chocolate, ginger and cinnamon compliment it perfectly. The Sweet Dream recipe was around long before all of the 'designer' chocolates went mainstream. Someone was definitely ahead of their time when they created this recipe.



This would be a no sifting required recipe. The flour, baking soda, cinnamon, ginger and salt are mixed together in a medium bowl and set aside. It is added to the batter created with the butter, brown sugar, vanilla and egg.


There are so many chocolate chips choices on the shelves of the grocery store these days it can be at times daunting as to which ones to choose. But my personal favorites are the Ghiradelli 60% bittersweet chocolate chips. They are a slightly oversized chocolate chip and when baked are creamy, not grainy. While it is an extra (and definitely worthwhile) step to toast walnuts before mixing them in, it is always preferable to buy walnut halves rather than pieces. To enhance the sweet nutty flavor of walnuts, they are simply placed on cookie sheet and baked at 350 degrees for 8 to 10 minutes.


This is one of those recipes where you have some wait time before you bake them as the dough needs to be refrigerated for several hours or until the dough is firm. Personally, I consider making cookies needing refrigeration a good thing particularly during the baking frenzied holidays. Sometimes you just need to move on to other things and the 'make now, bake later' cookies are a blessing in disguise.



Once chilled the dough is formed into one inch balls. For purposes of uniformity I like using an ice cream scoop (if you don't have or haven't bought one yet, you might want to add this to your list this year, that is, if you can wait that long). The balls of dough are rolled in confectionary sugar and placed two inches apart on a parchment paper lined cookie sheet in a preheated 375 degree oven. The cookies bake for 12-14 minutes (if you reduce or increase the size of the balls of dough you will have to adjust your baking time). Important Note: The original recipe called for a 10 minute baking time but in my experience with these cookies, 10 minutes wasn't long enough. I would recommend you check for doneness at 10 minutes and then adjust the time based on your oven. 

These cookies are as delicious as they are beautiful (makes me wonder if the judges in the cookie contest were wearing blind folds when they were tasting cookies!). And no, I am not getting started on baking holiday cookies, it's just the Sweet Dreams cookies have been put on hiatus for much too long and today was the perfect day to resurrect them. I guess I just couldn't want to wait any longer until these cookies were made and shared. And oh, as for how the outcome of the cookie contest has affected me, well let's just say it was really an endearing memorable moment amongst friends, the most important part of this memory.

Recipe
Sweet Dream Cookies (minor adaptations of a recipe from the Foothill House Bed and Breakfast, Calistoga, California)
Updated 12/20

Ingredients
1 cup (226g) unsalted butter, room temperature
1 1/2 cups (300g) firmly packed light brown sugar
1 large egg, room temperature
1 teaspoon vanilla
2 1/2 cups (325g) all-purpose flour
1 teaspoon baking soda
1 teaspoon Saigon cinnamon
1 teaspoon ground ginger
1/2 teaspoon Kosher salt
12 ounces (340g) semi-sweet or dark chocolate chips 
1 cup (115g) walnuts, toasted and chopped
1 cup (120g) confectionary sugar

Directions
1. Combine flour, baking soda, cinnamon, ginger and salt in a medium bowl. Set aside.
2. In the bowl of a standing fitted with a paddle attachment cream the butter.
3. Beat in the brown sugar, and vanilla. Add egg and continue mixing until well blended.
4. Blend flour mixture into the butter/sugar/egg mixture.
5. Fold in chocolate chips and walnuts.
6. Refrigerate until firm, at least 2 hours or overnight.
7. Preheat oven to 365 degrees (F).
8. Form dough into one inch balls. Dredge in confectionary sugar before placing on a parchment paper lined baking sheet. Space at least 2 inches apart.
9. Bake 12-14 minutes rotating pan midway through the baking process. Allow the cookies to cool 5 minutes on cookie sheets before removing.
10. Transfer to racks, cool and serve or store in an airtight container.


If there is one thing I know to be true is that taste is all a matter of opinion. What I or anyone else thinks looks good or tastes could either be the same or different. These perceptions are not nearly as important as is how one shares them. There are nuances to being honest, being polite, and there is also context. How I might say something to a really good friend or someone I care about might be a little different than what I might say to someone I don't know well, to a co-worker, or to someone that no longer matters to me. I say 'might' because sometimes I might say the exact same thing or I 'might' say something completely different. Giving a compliment or validating someone is a whole lot easier than expressing a differing view.

For me it's all about reading the context, reading the person. Sometimes a really close friend is in a place in their lives where the words chosen need to be a little more thoughtful. Judging when or when not to use humor can be the one thing that either makes them feel good and laugh or makes them wonder 'what is she thinking?' Either way I know I play a role in whatever their reaction might be. I certainly can't take credit for making someone laugh but not take some responsibility if they are momentarily wounded. I say 'momentarily' because how I react to them will affect whether my words remain with them or are forgotten (and possibly coming back as good teasing later on). In this day and age when face to face and ear to ear conversations are replaced (intentionally and unintentionally) with emails or texts, we lose the opportunity to strengthen connections. Maybe even more important, we risk having our intended outcome go awry. Seeing and hearing the judges (aka friends) say 'Don't quit your day job' just might have been received very differently if it came in the form of an email. For me, facial expressions, body language, and tone communicate more than words. They always have, they always will.

Saturday, November 9, 2013

Mushroom and Herb Polenta


Polenta has generally been one of those 'order in a restaurant, but not make at home' foods. I have always believed the making of polenta was incredibly time intensive, which can sometimes be a deal breaker so to speak. I have also believed that instant polenta, the kind that cooks in less than five minutes (yes, less than five minutes) doesn't compare to the taste of the polenta you slave over the stove for almost an hour. My first belief is true, however, I recently learned that my second belief was false (yes, I was wrong about something). I would have never taken anyone's word that it wouldn't matter if you used regular or instant polenta in a recipe unless that anyone was a someone. And that someone would be Yotam Ottolenghi. Any remaining hint of skepticism I may have had about instant polenta (because I can be a little stubborn at times) completely vanished upon tasting Ottolenghi's Mushroom and Herb Polenta (made with instant polenta). Yes, Yotam Ottolenghi was right when he said it didn't matter if you used regular or instant polenta for this recipe.

I made the Mushroom and Herb Polenta a couple of days ago when having friends over for dinner and I am still dreaming about it. Not only was it incredibly beautiful, the taste of the herbs, cheeses, polenta and mushrooms on my palate were amazing. Seriously amazing, wicked amazing, like 'last meal request' amazing.

It is quite possible this will become a regular, predictable dish served to friends and family when they come over for dinner. Let this be a warning to my friends and family as my obsession with this dish isn't going to go away anytime soon. But after just one taste, I am pretty confident they just might indulge me in this new obsession.

I decided to use Cremini, Baby Bellas and Shiitake mushrooms mostly because I love their flavor. Consider using at least two but no more than three different kinds of mushrooms when you make this recipe (because yes more can sometimes be better).


The mushrooms are cooked in two batches. Heat two tablespoons of extra-virgin olive oil in a large frying pan. Add half of the mushrooms are sauté until they reach the  'just cooked' stage (approximately 3-4 minutes). Rather than stirring the mushrooms constantly while cooking, allow the mushrooms to develop some golden spots on them. When finished cooking, transfer the mushrooms to a bowl. Heat the remaining two tablespoons of extra-virgin olive oil and sauté the second batch of mushrooms. Transfer them to the bowl and stir in the chopped rosemary, thyme, tarragon, white truffle oil, minced garlic, as well as salt and pepper to taste. Keep the mushrooms warm or at room temperature while you cook the polenta. Ottolenghi's recipe called for adding one tablespoon of truffle oil to the mushrooms, however, for my palate I felt it would dominate the taste of mushrooms. Instead I used one teaspoon as well used the more delicate white truffle oil instead of the black truffle oil. Note: Alternately use 1/4 teaspoon of white truffle salt instead of white truffle oil.

This recipe uses two kinds of cheese:  Parmigiano-Reggiano and Taleggio. The Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese is finely grated and added to the cooked polenta, while the Taleggio is thinly sliced and melted on top of the cooked polenta. Taleggio is a semi-soft cow's milk Italian cheese having a thin curst and strong aroma but with both a mild tangy fruit and buttery flavor. Whole Foods generally carries this cheese, however, if you absolutely cannot find it, Fontina cheese could be substituted.

Instant polenta works incredibly well in this dish. There really is no need to use the polenta requiring a much longer cooking time. After bringing the vegetable stock to a boil, the instant polenta is slowly added (stir constantly). into boiling vegetable stock. Reduce the heat to simmer and continue cooking until the polenta begins to leave the sides of the pan, yet still has a very creamy consistency. When it reaches this consistency, remove from the heat and immediately stir in the grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese, butter, one teaspoon of freshly chopped rosemary as well as some salt and pepper to taste. Pour and spread the polenta onto a heatproof dish, one that can stand up to the heat of 450 degrees (F).

I wanted to serve the polenta on a wooden board (because it's all about presentation, right?) but I did not want to have the wood burn or worse yet, cause a fire. I had soaked the wooden board for less than 30 minutes and did not cover the bottom or sides. Next time, I will soak the board for at least an hour and cover the bottom and sides with aluminum foil to prevent charring on the wooden board.

Once the slices of Taleggio cheese are placed on the polenta, place in the oven (450 degrees F instead of the broiler setting) until the cheese melts and slightly bubbles (about two minutes). Remove the polenta from the oven and spoon over the mushrooms along with any remaining juice. Return the polenta back to the oven until the mushrooms are heated through (another 1 to 2 minutes). Serve immediately.

Recipe
Mushroom and Herb Polenta (slight adaptation to the Mushroom and Herb Polenta recipe from "Plenty: Vibrant Recipes from London's Ottolenghi")
Serves 6-8

Ingredients
4 Tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, divided
4 cups large mixed mushrooms, halved (recommend mixture of Cremini, Baby Bellas and Shiitake mushrooms)
2 to 3 garlic cloves, minced
1 Tablespoon finely chopped tarragon
1 Tablespoon finely chopped thyme
1 Tablespoon finely chopped rosemary and 1 teaspoon finely chopped rosemary (divided)
1 teaspoon white truffle oil (or 1/4 teaspoon white truffle salt)
2 1/4 cups vegetable stock
1/2 cup instant polenta
3 ounces Parmigiano-Reggiano, freshly grated
2 1/2 Tablespoons unsalted butter, room temperature
4 ounces Taleggio cheese (rind removed) cut into 1/4 to 3/8 inch slices (if absolutely unable to find Taleggio, use Fontina cheese instead)
Kosher Salt and black pepper

Directions
1. Heat 2 Tablespoons olive oil in large frying pan over medium-high heat. When oil is hot, add half of the mushroom and cook for a few minutes or until just cooked. Do not overly stir as you want the mushrooms to get golden brown patches. Remove cooked mushrooms and set aside
2. Add remaining 2 Tablespoons olive oil in pan and cook remaining mushrooms
3. Remove frying pan from heat and combine both batches of cooked mushrooms into the pan. Stir in the chopped garlic, tarragon, thyme, rosemary, truffle oil, salt and pepper. Cover to keep warm.
4. Bring vegetable stock to a boil in medium sized saucepan. Slowly stir in the polenta and reduce heat to simmer and cook, stirring constantly with a wooden spoon. Cooking time for the instant polenta is no more than 5 minutes. The polenta is ready when it leaves the sides of the pan but is still creamy.
5. Off the heat, add the butter, 1 teaspoon chopped rosemary, Parmigiano-Reggiano, salt and pepper to the cooked polenta. 
6. Preheat the oven to 450 degrees (F).
7. Spread the polenta over a heatproof dish and top with the Tallegio cheese. Place in a preheated oven for approximately 2 to 3 minute or until cheese begins to melt. Remove from oven.
8. Spread cooked mushrooms and all of their juices over the polenta. Return to the oven and bake for approximately 1 to 2 minutes to warm up mushrooms. 
9. Serve immediately.

Notes: (1) Lesson learned: If using a wooden board, soak for at least an hour before cooking and cover bottom and sides with aluminum foil to prevent charring. (2) If possible find a platter that can withstand extremely high temperatures.


If I have learned anything in the past year it is 'get over the fear of cooking with unfamiliar ingredients'. Being a somewhat competitive person (although the older I get the less intense this competitiveness is), I have been known to be reluctant making recipes that I wasn't exactly sure how they would turn out. My fears were grounded both in the failure to make something look and taste 'perfect' the first time as well as in not having a sense of the flavors or finished look of the recipe. There are times when I look at a recipe and think, this is too complicated, I can't make this. But if I am honest with myself, what I am really saying is 'I don't want to make this'. That way of thinking can be limiting when approaching cooking or pretty much everything else. That also includes our perceptions of simple and complicated, recognizing of course that what seems simple for one person may seem complicated for another and vice versa.

There are things I used to think were complicated or too difficult, that I now think are simple or at least easier. Why? Mostly because I invested the time and energy as well as wasn't willing to give up. I realize (but don't always acknowledge) that our perceptions can sometimes hold us hostage, hold us back. Whether it's polenta or a friendship, we won't know if or how it will turn out, unless we try. For some of us, that means trying a little harder or trying again or trying differently. Now that I have finally changed my perception of instant polenta, there are a few other perceptions I need to change as well. Whether changing those perceptions is easy or difficult shouldn't matter because I, in the spirit of the Nike motto, 'just need to do it'. What about you? Any fears or perceptions you would like to or are willing to change?  Remember the words of wisdom 'nothing changes unless we do'? Well those words would be true.

Friday, November 8, 2013

Shirley's Apple Crisp


Did you ever wonder why some recipes endure for generations within a family? Could it be that the making of the recipe evokes great childhood or family memories? Or could it be that no other recipe ever compares to its' original version? I actually think the answers to these questions are yes and yes. And those of us with whom these family legacy recipes are shared are twice blessed. First, because we were lucky enough to have been at a gathering where the treasured recipe was served, and second because the recipe was shared with us. Shirley's Apple Crisp is one of those recipes, one that has been made in the Hall family for the past 75 years. Yes, 75 years.


Sometimes you taste someone's treasured family recipe and say 'okay it's good'. Then there are times when you taste one and you say 'OMG, this is insanely delicious'. Shirley's Apple Crisp is a recipe that falls into the 'OMG insanely delicious' category. And not only is it insanely delicious, it could not be any easier to make. For those who firmly believe simpler is always better, a photo of this crisp should accompany that adage.


If my life had not crossed paths with my friend Trish (or Patty as she called by everyone except me) when we were college freshman at the University of Illinois in Urbana-Champaign (decades ago) I would have neither met her parents, Wayne and Shirley, nor come into this recipe. Words cannot begin to express how incredibly thankful I am for both of these experiences.


I may or may not have taken a few liberties with this recipe as in the version shared with me the type of apples used were not specified. And maybe 75 years ago when recipes were first recorded there was an unwritten understanding about what type of apple went into the crisp. Personally I love the tartness of Granny Smith apples and they are my hands down favorites in crisps. If you look up which apples are best used in crisps, Cortlands, Honeycrisps and Granny Smiths are the ones most frequently mentioned.


The crisp calls for 4 cups of peeled, cored and sliced apples. Because apples come in so many different size variations, the number of apples you will use may vary slightly.  This time, five and one half medium sized Granny Smith apples yielded 4 generous cups of apples when cut into 1/8th inch slices. Next time I might use only 4 or as many as 6 apples.

In a medium sized mixing bowl the sliced apples, a heaping teaspoon of cinnamon (the heaping part is all me as I love the flavor of cinnamon in a crisp), a 1/4 cup of water and a 1/2 teaspoon of salt  are mixed until the apples are well coated with the cinnamon.


The crisp's topping is made with only three ingredients: flour, sugar and butter. In the words of Ina Garten 'how easy is that?'. In a small to medium sized bowl, use either a pastry blender or a fork to blend together until the mixture is crumbly.


The apples are poured into a buttered pan. I used a 9 inch cast iron pan, however, a 9 inch metal pan will also work perfectly. Just remember butter the pan before putting in the apples.

Sprinkle the topping and completely cover the apples. Baked in a preheated 350 degree oven for 40 minutes, the crisp tastes best served warm with either vanilla ice cream or freshly whipped cream. For some reason this crisp screams 'serve me with vanilla ice cream!'. If I were still on the east coast I would serve it with Bliss's vanilla ice cream, however, now that I am here in the midwest Ben and Jerry's vanilla is the ice cream of choice (guess I am convinced that milk from cows on the east coast just tastes different). Whether you serve Shirley's Apple Crisp for dessert or just as a treat, this crisp is comfort food at its' best. And for me, this apple crisp brings more than comfort, it brings back the memories of what it felt like to be included into lives of the Hall family.

Recipe
Shirley's Apple Crisp 

Updated June 2023 

Ingredients
4 cups (864g) apples peeled, cored and sliced to about 1/4" thickness (about 4 large or 5 1/2 medium sized apples). Recommend using Granny Smith apples 
1 heaping teaspoon Saigon cinnamon
1/4 cup water
1/2 teaspoon Kosher salt
3/4 (98g) cup all-purpose flour
1 cup (200g) granulated sugar
1/3 cup (78g) unsalted butter, room temperature, cut into pieces

Directions
1. Preheat oven to 350 degrees (F)
2. Generously butter either a 9" cast iron of 9" inch round pan. Set aside.
3. Mix together the sliced apples, cinnamon, water and Kosher salt in a medium sized bowl. Mix until apples are coated with cinnamon. Pour into baking dish and set aside. (See Notes)
4. For the crisp topping, use either a pastry blender or fork to combine the flour, sugar, and butter until mixture is crumbly. (Suggestion: add just a tiny pinch of cinnamon) Set aside.
5. Pour apples into prepared pan. Spread crisp topping over the apples, covering completely.
6. Bake for 40 minutes or until the top has lightly browned and the filling is bubbling up on the sides.
7. Allow to rest (lightly covered) for at least 10 minutes before serving warm with vanilla ice cream or freshly whipped cream.

NOTES:  (1) The photos were updated in June 2023. (2) I added the juice of a half of a lemon to the apple mixture in addition to the 1/4 cup of water.  (3) I used a mandolin to slice the apples, but they could easily be sliced with a knife. Slices were cut slightly less than 1/4" thick. (4) If I make the topping first, I put in the refrigerator to chill while I slice and cut the apples.


With Thanksgiving just around the proverbial corner, I have started to think about all of the traditions surrounding this holiday. Both old traditions and new traditions. Old traditions always involve the food served for Thanksgiving dinner. For me those foods would be turkey, stuffing, cranberry chutney, mashed potatoes, sweet potatoes, cole slaw, gravy and pumpkin pie. Over the years these old traditions have been tweaked as the cranberry sauce has been replaced with a cranberry chutney; a cornbread, sausage and mincemeat stuffing is made in addition to the intensely flavored sage bread stuffing; and the pumpkin pie is no longer the stand alone dessert. But beyond food, old traditions involved spending this holiday with only family members. However, more than the changes to the food at the Thanksgiving table, the changes to who we spend Thanksgiving with seems to have changed the most. It is now a holiday where both friends and family come together to give thanks for all of the blessings in our lives.

Last year Thanksgiving was spent in Colorado with my sister, brother-in-law, niece and nephew. This year, Thanksgiving will be spent in Kentucky with friends. These 'new' traditions have and will create some lasting memories. Considering that I have been one to love the 'old' traditions associated with this holiday, I have come to love even more the creation of 'new' ones. Because in the end, this holiday is not just about the food and not just about keeping it a 'family' only holiday. This is a holiday meant to include extended family. I learned that concept of 'extended family' from Wayne and Shirley 30 something years ago. While recipes may endure from generation to generation, the feeling of being included in and embraced by someone else's family is life-changing.

Sunday, November 3, 2013

Nantucket Cranberry Pie


The recipe for the Nantucket Cranberry Pie was first published in November 2013. I have since updated the directions, photos, as well as added directions on making an orange flavored whipped cream. The flavors of slightly tart and sweet pie are elevated even further with a large dollop of the whipped cream. 

Until I discovered this recipe for Nantucket Cranberry Pie a couple of years ago, I had never tasted a pie made with fresh cranberries. My intake of cranberries were primarily in cranberry chutney, cranberry sauce, and, oh yes, dried cranberries in cookies or bread). I was a bit of a cranberry pie skeptic as I didn't think raw, tart cranberries would taste good in a pie. Even one baked for almost an hour. To say I was pleasantly surprised at the flavor and texture of this pie would be an understatement. The combination of fresh cranberries, pecans, orange and almond extracts make for one incredibly delicious slightly sweet, tart pie.

It may have been simplicity of the recipe or the fact that it may have originated Nantucket that initially drew me to this recipe. Fortunately, I didn't let my limited cranberry consumption exposure prevent me from making this pie. (Up until I started this blog, I actually thought I had a pretty good knowledge of and relatively wide range of experiences with food. I have caught myself more than once in the past year admitting to my unfamiliarity with or limited application to quite a few foods. So it seems that my perception hasn't been in alignment with my reality. At least on the culinary front that is.) 


While Thanksgiving is just a few weeks away, but this isn't just a Thanksgiving or autumnal pie. No, it is one of those pies that is delicious year round (that is for as long as you can find fresh cranberries). Having said that, it really would be a great addition to any array of Thanksgiving desserts. Even if you are serving a cranberry chutney or cranberry sauce during the meal, as there are certain times when there is no such thing as 'too much' cranberry). For those of you who believe otherwise, consider serving this on Thanksgiving morning, at least then there will be a several hour gap between your consumption of cranberries.  What I am trying to say is you should really make this pie as soon as you can find fresh cranberries in your grocery store or market.


In addition to the cranberries, pecans, butter, sugar, flour, eggs and sea salt, the pie also contains both almond and orange extracts. Be careful not to use 'imitation' extracts as they will not yield the same flavor results. Most grocery stores carry both extracts, however, you can usually also find them at speciality cooking stores or online.


Mix together the fresh cranberries, the pecans, and one-half cup of sugar in a medium sized bowl and set aside. Important note: The recipe uses a total of 1 1/2 cups of sugar, 1/2 cup is mixed in with the nuts and cranberries and 1 cup is mixed in with the remaining ingredients.


In a large bowl, whisk together the melted butter, lightly beaten eggs, one cup of sugar, almond extract, orange extract and salt until well blended. Fold in the flour using a spatula until no streaks of flour remain.


Add in the cranberry, nut and sugar mixture to the batter. Carefully blend together with a wooden spoon or spatula. The batter should be very thick.


Scrape the batter into a glass or ceramic nine inch pie plate very generously buttered. Place on a baking sheet in a pre-heated 350 degree oven. Baking time on the original recipe was 45 minutes, however, I have found that the baking time is often closer to 60 minutes. The pie is done when the top is a light brown, some of the cranberries have burst, and it pulls away slightly from the side of the pie plate. Serve the Nantucket Cranberry Pie at room temperature (so you can make it early in the day and lightly cover).


In this updated version of the recipe, I have added an Orange Flavored Whipped Cream. Why I never served the pie this way before is anyone's guess. But I know now I will never ever serve it any other way.


When I lived out east I used to make this Nantucket Cranberry Pie often. During the fall, when cranberries were in abundance, I would often make it for friends visiting. Like me, they too were surprised at its' deliciousness and texture. This bit crunchy on the edges and softer in the center is pie heaven. More often than not, they would request the recipe. Needless to say, I was more than happy to share it. 

Recipe (updated October 2019)
Nantucket Cranberry Pie (slight modification to the Nantucket Cranberry Pie recipe created by Will Hotham in the "Home Port Cookbook: Beloved Recipes from Martha's Vineyard")
Serves 8

Ingredients
Pie
2 generous cups (8 ounces, 227g) fresh cranberries
1/2 cup (2 1/4 ounces, 64g) pecan halves, toasted and chopped
1 1/2 cups (300g) granulated sugar, divided
3/4 cup (12 Tablespoons-170g)) unsalted butter, melted and cooled slightly
1 cup (130g) all-purpose flour
2 large eggs, room temperature, lightly beaten
1 teaspoon almond extract (recommend Nielsen-Massey Pure Almond Extract)
1 teaspoon orange extract
1/4 teaspoon sea salt or kosher salt.

Orange Flavored Whipped Cream 
8 ounces heavy whipping cream
2 Tablespoons confectionary sugar
1/4 teaspoon orange extract
Orange zest

Directions
1. Preheat oven to 350 degrees (F). Generously butter a 9 inch glass or ceramic pie plate. Set aside.
2. In a medium sized bowl, combine cranberries, pecans and 1/2 cup granulated sugar. Mix and set aside.
3. In a large bowl, whisk together the melted butter, eggs, remaining one cup sugar, almond extract, orange extract, and salt until well-blended. Fold in the flour until thoroughly combined.
4. Add the cranberry/nut/sugar mixture and fold to combine both mixtures.  Note: The batter will have a thick consistency.
5. Scrape batter into a 9 inch glass or ceramic pie plate. Bake for 50 to 60 minutes, rotating the pan midway through the baking process, until the pie is lightly browned, some of the cranberries have burst and the pie pulls very slightly from the edges. Err on the side of baking slightly longer as this is a very dense pie. (Note: My baking time tends to be closer to 60 minutes but I start checking at 50 minutes.)
6. Allow to cool to room temperature before serving. 
7. In a medium sized bowl, whip the cream, confectionary sugar, and orange extract until semi-firm peaks form. 
8. Serve the pie with the whipped cream sprinkled with some orange zest.

Notes: (1) To toast the pecans, preheat oven to 350 degrees (F). Lay pecans flat on a baking dish. Bake for 8-9 minutes. Let cool slightly before chopping. (2) Leftover pie should be covered and either placed in the refrigerator or can be left out. If refrigerated, bring to room temperature before serving or enjoy chilled.

The first time I traveled to Nantucket I felt a sense of the island's history instantly after I got off the ferry. Or maybe what I was feeling could better be described as an aura. One I cannot fully explain. Certainly I had never experienced such a feeling in any of my prior travels. Needless to say Nantucket left a permanent imprint on me. Whatever it was that I felt, I thought that if I were on a ship in the 1600s and the first sighting of land was Nantucket, I wouldn't have wanted to travel any further. This would have been the end of the journey for me. Most likely I would have become one of those who would 'never have left the island'. While the landscape has changed over the past four hundred plus years, I have no doubt it has always been a compelling, beautiful place. From the original cobblestones in the center of town; to the uniqueness of each of the beaches; to the architecture of the buildings and homes; to the landscape; to its' history; it is without a doubt one of my most favorite travel destinations on the east coast.

Before I traveled to Nantucket, I had taken ferries to both Block Island and Martha's Vineyard. Each time I got on a ferry all I could think of was Nathaniel Philbrick's book "In the Heart of the Sea: The Tragedy of the Whaleship Essex". More specifically, I couldn't help but worry about the possibility of whales bumping the ferry and me being thrown into the middle of the ocean (an example of my very active imagination). In retrospect this unfounded fear of mine might have been just a little on the dramatic side, however, I had just read the book for the first time a few weeks before getting on a ferry that 'crossed the ocean' and so unfriendly whales were fresh on my mind. But nothing I had ever read or seen before prepared me for the sheer beauty of Nantucket. I have been known to weep over taking in nature's beauty. Being on Nantucket and hiking in the Rocky Mountains each for the first time just might have brought tears to my eyes. But I will let your active imagination decide whether or not tears were actually shed.

Friday, November 1, 2013

Roasted Chicken with Sumac, Za'atar and Lemon

Every once in awhile I come across a recipe I am unable to conceptualize how it might taste as it contains ingredients I have never experienced before. When this happens I find all sorts of reasons why not to make the dish. Sometimes I am a little intimidated by the recipe, sometimes it is challenging to find the ingredients, and sometimes, well sometimes, I am not certain I want to take the risk of investing in all of the ingredients (once I find them) and the time without having just an inkling of the potential outcome (A pretty limiting way to approach cooking and life, don't you think?). But what almost always what overrides all of these fears and trepidations is the source of the recipe. And Yotam Ottolenghi is one such chef whose recipes always seem to get rave reviews. The Mediterranean Tart shared on the blog in June was a home run (yes, I was caught up in the World Series frenzy, thus the baseball metaphor).


While perusing through the recently purchased 'Ottolenghi: The Cookbook', the recipe immediately capturing my attention was the Roasted Chicken with Sumac, Za'Atar and Lemon. By all definitions, this would have been a recipe I would have normally avoided as it contained ingredients completely unfamiliar to me: sumac and za'atar. I actually had to do an internet search to learn what they even were! But for once I decided my culinary rigidity and spice exposure deficit wasn't going to be a deterrent. Having the courage to go forward I then discovered I had another hurdle to overcome. That would be my ability to find these two ingredients: sumac and za'atar. Three grocery stores later, I discovered that Williams-Sonoma carried them (the store I should have started at in the first place). With the recipe and the ingredients now in hand, I decided I was finally game (it can be so liberating to let go of one's fears).

Ottolenghi and Tamimi describe this dish as 'the simplified version of the traditional Palestinian dish m'sakhari where chicken is spiced with sumac then roasted in the oven over bread'. Only in this recipe the chicken was not roasted over bread, but served with bread. Naan along with a garlicky yogurt sauce sounded like the perfect accompaniment to the chicken.


If I learned one thing while making this dish, it was that I have been holding myself back from experiencing some amazing recipes. Because the  Roasted Chicken with Sumac, Za'Atar and Lemon was in a word phenomenal. Or in keeping with the sports metaphors here, it was a grand slam, a gold medal, an Olympic record. Yes, it was absolutely insanely delicious!


Maybe because I am a baker at heart, I like specificity in the ingredients when I am making something for the first time. The Ottolenghi recipe called for one large organic or free-range chicken cut into quarters. So I thought 'what's considered large?' Was there some chicken reference chart that defined small, medium, large or extra-large that I wasn't aware of? This time I didn't do an internet search and just took a guess. I guessed large was six pounds.


Whether or not my guess was right, cutting a six pound chicken into quarters would have rendered the pieces too large. So I cut the chicken into eight pieces and I am so glad I did. However the next time I make this dish (and there were be more than one next time), I will buy two smaller free-range chickens and cut it into quarters. Oh so what is 'small'? In my world small will be somewhere in the 4 to 4 1/2 pound range.

There wasn't any confusion about what thinly slicing onions and onions meant. I used three small red onions instead of two medium sized onions as that was what I had in the pantry. 

In a large bowl, the chicken is mixed with the onions, lemons, olive oil, allspice, cinnamon, sumac, chicken stock, crushed garlic, salt and pepper. The za'atar isn't used until it comes time to bake the chicken. The recipe recommended the mixture be refrigerated for a few hours or overnight. I went with the overnight timeframe as I wanted the chicken to fully absorb all of the flavors of the marinade. Going forward I would continue to recommend the overnight marinading.

The chicken, onions, lemon and remaining marinade are placed on a large baking sheet, one large enough that the chicken pieces have some breathing room. Once everything is placed on the baking sheet you sprinkle the chicken with the za'atar. In a preheated 400 degree oven, the chicken is roasted for 30 to 40 minutes or until it is colored and fully cooked through (the pieces should have an internal temperature of 165 degrees). In my oven or maybe because the size of the pieces, the chicken baked for  almost 45 minutes.


While the chicken is roasting, the pine nuts are sautéed in butter until they turn golden in color. The golden pine nuts are transferred to a plate lined with paper towels and set aside until the chicken is placed on a platter.



The combination of the roasted chicken with warm Naan and a garlicky yogurt sauce on one's palate is just plain wicked. I decided to make a sauce of Greek yogurt, garlic, cucumber, lemon juice, salt and pepper. The only thing I would do differently next time is double the amount of sauce.


I wish I could describe how wonderful the kitchen smelled while the chicken was roasting but I don't have the words. I could say it smelled of sumac and za'atar (which it did), but if you have never tasted those spices that description wouldn't mean much. I might say the smell was one that made you want to taste what was in the oven. The roasted chicken is placed on a large platter, sprinkled with the sautéed pine nuts and drizzled with additional olive oil. If you want additional color on the plate, you can add some chopped parsley.


Recipe
Roasted Chicken with Sumac, Za'Atar and Lemon (an oh so slight modification to the recipe created by Yotam Ottolengthi and Sami Tamimi and printed in their cookbook 'Ottolenghi: The Cookbook')

Ingredients 
1 large organic or free-range chicken cut into quarters (if using a 6 pound chicken, cut into 8 pieces or cut two 4 pound chickens into eight pieces)
3 small or 2 medium red onions thinly sliced
1 lemon, thinly sliced
2 cloves garlic, minced
4 Tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for drizzling
1 1/2 teaspoons ground allspice
1 teaspoon cinnamon
1 Tablespoon sumac
1 cup chicken stock
1 1/2 teaspoons salt
1 teaspoon ground black pepper
2 Tablespoons za'atar
6 Tablespoons pine nuts
4 Tablespoons unsalted butter
Chopped parsley
Naan or pita bread (recommend Naan)

Ingredients for Garlickly Yogurt Sauce (can and should be doubled)
1/2 regular sized cucumber, peeled, seeded and cut into small pieces
3 cloves garlic, minced
3/4 cup plain Greek yogurt (recommend Fage Total)
1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice
Kosher salt and ground pepper to taste

Directions
Chicken
1. In a large bowl, combine the cut chicken, sliced onions, sliced lemon, minced garlic, olive oil, allspice, cinnamon, suman, salt, pepper and chicken stock. Cover and refrigerate overnight.
2. Preheat oven to 400 degrees.
3. Place the chicken, onions, lemon and remaining marinade on a large baking sheet leaving enough breathing room between the pieces of chicken. Sprinkle the 2 Tablespoons of za'atar over the chicken. Bake for 35 to 45 minutes or until chicken is done. 
4. While the chicken is roasting, melt 4 tablespoons of unsalted butter in a small sauté pan. Add 6 tablespoons of pine nuts. Stirring constantly cook over medium heat until the pine nuts are golden. Place golden pine nuts on a plate lined with paper towels in order to allow the nuts to drain Set aside.
5. Place the chicken and onions on a large platter. Sprinkle with the pine nuts and if desired, chopped parsley. 
6. Drizzle extra-virgin olive oil over the chicken.
7. Serve with warmed Naan and a garlicky yogurt sauce.

Garlicky Yogurt Sauce (make several hours or a day ahead to allow flavors to blend)
1. Peel cucumber and remove seeds. Using a paper towel squeeze some of the liquid from the cucumber. Cut cucumber into small pieces and place in bowl.
2. Add yogurt, minced garlic and freshly squeezed lemon juice along with salt and pepper to taste (recommended 1/4 teaspoon of each).
3. Mix together until blended. Cover and chill for several hours or overnight. 
4. Serve with warmed Naan.

In the past couple of years I have not been watching much television and for awhile even lived without one. Instead I spent the discretionary time I had available reading, exploring the east coast, spending time at the beach (either soaking in the sun or just going for an early morning walk), and of course, creating the blog. So I came into a certain television series late in the game, so late in fact that its' sixth and final season occurred a couple of months ago. The social media buzz around the final season and the final episode caught my attention. So I thought maybe I should see why it was a show that had such a large following. For those of you more television current, you probably know the show I am talking about is "Breaking Bad". But thanks to the creation and release of DVDs those of us slow to stay television current can watch what everyone has (or had) been talking about (without all of the commercials).

In just one episode I was hooked (in the best of ways) on a show that essentially deals with drugs. Well actually it's really so much more than that. I found myself completely engrossed in the lives of people who have made some interesting, illegal and unethical choices and whose bad behavior is at times almost too intense to watch. Yet, in spite of such dark themes in this show, I have come to be so involved in the lives of these fictional people, I am now talking, caring, worrying, and thinking about them as if they were real. Yes, I know this sounds a little crazy. (Maybe this is why I don't watch much television as the lines between fantasy and reality can so easily be blurred.)

As I watch each of the episodes, I wondered how I could have been so clueless about this Emmy Award winning television series. Was I that out of touch? Or maybe I wasn't completely clueless or out of touch, maybe I didn't think any television series dealing with the making and distributing of meth-amphetamines would be something of interest to me. Well, in retrospect that was pretty narrow thinking on my part. And just like my dismissiveness over recipes with ingredients I am unfamiliar with, all I can say is that old adage 'better late than never' couldn't be more true.