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Tuesday, January 18, 2022

Chocolate Chip Cookies, Jacques Torres Style


Late last week, we ventured out of the house to take a drive 'out west'. After a slightly more than an hour's road trip, the landscape changes from dense and suburban to wide open and rural. With the harvested fields blanketed in fresh show, the farm houses and barns set against the backdrop of a blue sky gave way to a most picturesque, tranquil setting. It never ceases to amaze me just how much something like a change in landscape can energize my spirit. Whether it's a walk in the woods, a drive in the country, or a trip to the mountains, my affinity and appreciation for these landscapes has grown considerably over the years. Maybe because it has, in part, become a kind of therapy for my soul. In less than a month, I will get a strong dose of landscape therapy as I travel out west to Colorado for a long weekend. I can hardly wait to return to one of my happy places for a few days. No matter how many times I return and as odd as this may sound, Colorado always feels simultaneously both familiar and new. 


Speaking of familiar, chocolate chip cookies are somewhat commonplace around here. Over the past several years, I have shared recipes for various versions of this much beloved cookie. I like them all for very different reasons, but Tara's Chocolate Chip Cookies have been my favorite go-to ones for the past six and a half years. They are ones I make for friends, for care packages, for raising money for good causes, for when I need some baking therapy, or for when I need to satisfy my fussytarian craving for a really, really good chocolate chip cookie. 

Fourteen years ago I jumped on the famed chocolatier Jacques Torres's Chocolate Chip Cookie recipe when the New York Times published it. Hailed as "perfect" the consummate chocolate chip cookie was described as one "built on decades of acquired knowledge, experience, and secrets." Crispy on the outside, chewy on the inside, laden with chocolate, and having an addictive sweet and salty combination, qualities that would bring a chocolate chip cookie aficionado to their proverbial knees. So why on earth did I walk away from that cookie in 2008? Maybe I couldn't really appreciate that cookie or maybe it was just easier to stay with the cookie I knew. Who knows. I can't tell you specifically what prompted me to give this cookie a second chance, I can only tell you that it may be the best cookie return decision I have ever made. What I am trying to say in a rather non-linear way is that this will now be cookie I will be making for friends, for care packages, for raising money for good causes, for when I need some baking therapy, or for when I need to satisfy my fussytarian craving for a great, not just really good chocolate chip cookie.


Much has changed, including in the baking world, since I first made that Jacques Torres chocolate chip cookie. First, bread flour and cake flour are now much more readily available than they were fourteen years ago. Second, options and price points for good quality chocolate have also changed considerably. And last, and maybe most importantly, my baking knowledge has improved considerably. I am definitely not the same baker I was fourteen years ago. For those reasons as well as a few others, I will tell you I was drunk in cookie love when I took a bite of this cookie. However, in full disclosure this isn't the exact same cookie I made fourteen years ago. I made a few nuanced changes to it. 


With the exception of the vanilla, I kept the quantities of all of the other ingredients the same as the originally published recipe. So what were the specific changes I made to Jacques Torres's recipe? Instead of using only light brown sugar, I used a combination of both light and dark brown sugar and instead of using two teaspoons of vanilla, I used a tablespoon. And what were those so called subtle changes? I used European style butter as it has a slightly higher fat content than most American made butters. I can't be absolutely certain, but if Jacques Torres learned to bake in France he had to using European butter. And lastly, instead of using the very expensive oval shaped chocolate feves, I chopped up a 17.6 ounce bar of Trader Joe's Dark Chocolate. And for the coarse salt, I used Kosher salt. 

When I first made this cookie years ago, I measured the ingredients using measuring cups and spoons. This time I used my food scale and measured in grams (not ounces). If there was ever a cookie to convince you to use weighted versus cup measurements, this would be the cookie. With ingredient amounts asking for two cups of flour to be reduced by two tablespoons or one cup of sugar increased with two additional tablespoons, measuring in grams makes measuring easier.

If there was ever a chocolate chip cookie to test your patience, your ability to wait, this would be the one. Because once you make the batter, use an ice cream scoop to create eighteen to nineteen 3 1/2 ounce balls, the balls of dough need to chill in the refrigerator for at least 24 but up to 72 hours. Although I would recommend waiting until at least 36 hours before baking them. The amount of time the balls of dough need to spend in the refrigerator may sound like a drawback or deal breaker to some. But the textural and flavor benefits far outweigh any temporary inconvenience. And this is coming from someone who doesn't list patience high on their list of virtues! Note: I baked a batch at the 36 hour mark and another after a 66 hour pause. Both batches came out perfectly.

Baking time for the cookies ranges from 17-20 minutes or until they are golden brown on the edges but appear to still be slightly soft in the center. Rather than immediately transferring the baked cookies to a cooling rack, allow them to remain on the cookie sheet for at least 10 minutes. 

To get that beautiful, perfect round bakery look to your chocolate chip cookies, use a glass bowl or oversized round cookie cutter to swirl the cookies shortly (less than a minute) after they come of the oven. 


These jumbo Chocolate Chip Cookies (Jacques Torres Style) have crispy, chewy edges and soft centers, are laden with chocolate, are surprisingly light, and are a seriously scrumptious, spectacular chocolate chip cookie.  At slightly more three and a half inches in diameter, these impressive sized chocolate chip cookies are certainly large enough to share. Although I would encourage you to be a tad selfish and allow yourself to savor every last morsel. The recipe below makes eighteen cookies so there is more than enough to go around. 


How do they compare to Tara's Chocolate Chip Cookies? It would almost impossible and even a bit unfair to compare these two chocolate chip cookies as they have two completely different flavor profiles. If you love a chocolate chip cookie having a slightly higher chocolate to cookie dough ratio, you will absolutely be smitten with these. They are as rich and delicious as they are gorgeous. Bringing these Jacques Torres style chocolate chip cookies back into my life (permanently this time) reminded me that good things sometimes really do come to those who wait. 

Recipe
Chocolate Chip Cookies, Jacques Torres Style
Makes 18-19 very large (slightly larger than 3 1/2 inches), bakery style cookies

Ingredients
1 1/4 cups (283g) European or European style unsalted butter, room temperature
1 cup plus 2 Tablespoons (226g) granulated sugar
1 cup (200g) light brown sugar
1/4 cup (50g) dark brown sugar
1 Tablespoon vanilla
2 large eggs, room temperature
2 cups less 2 Tablespoons (214g) cake flour
1 2/3 cups (226g) bread flour
1 1/2 teaspoons Kosher salt
1 1/2 teaspoons baking powder
1 1/4 teaspoons baking soda
1 1/4 pounds (500g) dark, bittersweet or milk chocolate, chopped (I use the 17.6 oz Trader Joe's Pound Plus Bar)
Flaky sea salt (e.g., Maldon Sea Salt)

Directions
1. In a large mixing bowl, whisk together the cake flour, bread flour, Kosher salt, baking powder, and baking soda. Set aside.
2. In the bowl of a large standing mixer fitted with a paddle attachment, beat the room temperature unsalted butter for about 2 minutes.
3. Add in the granulated sugar, light brown sugar, and dark brown sugar. Beat until light and fluffy (approximately 4-5 minutes).
4. Mix in the vanilla.
5. Beat in the eggs one at a time, beating well after each addition.
6. Reduce the mixer speed to low and mix in the flour mixture in three additions. When all of the flour has been added in and it is no longer visible, add in the chopped chocolate. Mix until just incorporated.
7. Using a large ice cream scoop or a 1/4 cup measuring cup, form 18 balls of dough (each approximately 3 1/2 ounces each). Place the balls of dough on a tray. Wrap well with plastic wrap and refrigerate for 36-72 hours.
8. Preheat oven to 350 degrees (F). Line two baking sheets with parchment paper. Note: Bake only one pan of cookies at a time.
9. Place six balls of the dough (spaced at least 3 inches apart) on a baking sheet. Sprinkle each cookie with flaky sea salt.
10. Bake the cookies on the center rack of the oven for 17-20 minutes (rotating the pan midway through the baking process) or until golden on top and along edges but still a bit soft in the center. Remove the pan from the oven. Wait one minute before using a bowl or large round cookie cutter to swirl the cookie to create a perfectly round cookie. Let cookies remain on the baking sheet for up to 10 minutes before transferring to a cooling rack.
11. Savor these beautiful bakery style looking chocolate chip cookies immediately (you have waited long enough!) or store them in a tightly sealed container once they have come to room temperature. 

Notes: (1) For calculating weight measurements, I use the following base formulas: 200g = 1 cup brown sugar, 200 g = 1 cup granulated sugar, 115 g = 1 cup cake flour, 136g = 1 cup bread flour, 226g = 1 cup unsalted butter, 371g = 1 pound chocolate (2) I chopped up the 17.6 ounce bar of the Trader Joe's Dark Chocolate for these cookies. 

Thursday, August 27, 2015

Salted Chocolate-Rye Cookies


After spending a long, whirlwind, weather perfect weekend exploring parts of Philadelphia and Annapolis, I haven't been able to get all of the 'experienced for the first time' images out of my head. From the historic sites in the Old City section of Philadelphia, to the vibrancy of the Reading Terminal Market, to the architecture of the buildings and homes on the narrow streets in Annapolis, to the breathtaking views on the Chesapeake Bay, my heart is still racing from the sheer beauty of the places with two very distinct personalities, yet ones retaining their Colonial days aura. On the food front, the cheesesteaks, tomato pie, and soft baked pretzels in Philly were delicious, however, the crab cakes made with fresh lump Maryland crab caused me to fall even more deeply, madly in love with Annapolis. Already I am wondering when I might be able to make a return trip there. 


After several days of absolutely gorgeous, sunny, low humidity, white cloud sky days out east, I returned back to the midwest to what felt like early October chilly weather. For a millisecond I thought 'how long was I gone for?' As much as I would selfishly like for summer to hang around for a little while longer, I must confess I can barely contain my enthusiasm for the arrival of my most favorite season. From the cooler temperature weather, to the changes in the colors of the landscape, to the return of my favorite holidays, to perfect sleeping weather, and to when just turning on the oven to bake is enough to take the chill out of the house, autumn is one of those seasons I wish could go on endlessly. While winter can sometimes be a bit of grinch and encroach on the final days of fall, it is a welcome blessing when summer graciously allows fall to begin a little early. 


I managed to read an entire book ("The Martian") during my weekend getaway (making my flights with stops being a little more palatable), flip through a few food magazines picked up in the airport on the flight out, and keep up with the myriad of food related emails populating my inbox. The book was exceptional, a must read in spite causing me to weep in public. The magazines were filled with ideas and inspiration. However, reading about one of Tartine's cookie recipes in an email made me incredibly grateful I had returned home to perfect baking weather temperatures. Before even unpacking my luggage, I went through my cabinets to make sure I had all of the ingredients for their Salted Chocolate-Rye Cookies. Discovering a quick morning trip to the grocery store to pick up some muscovado sugar was necessary, taking the the eggs and butter out of the refrigerator before ultimately heading to bed guaranteed I would be committed to making these cookies. 


Muscovado sugar is an unrefined dark brown cane sugar having a strong molasses flavor and slightly coarser than most brown sugars. With a texture similar to a wet, moist, sticky sand and having hints of fruit and toffee, muscovado has a more complex flavor profile than granulated sugar or light/dark brown sugars. But if it isn't something easily accessible in your grocery store, dark brown sugar can be substituted. However, if you can find organic dark brown sugar (versus the boxed or bagged 'normal' dark brown sugar) buy it as that would be a great substitute. Not exactly the same as muscovado, organic brown sugar is the next best thing. And it is what I used for these cookies (Trader Joe's has a great organic brown sugar).


I have recently become a big fan of the use of rye flour in pie crusts and other baked confections.  It so happens these cookies call for the use of an organic dark rye whole grain flour (Bob's Red Mill makes a great dark rye flour). Unfortunately there is no substitute for this flour. Once you start using it, more than likely it will become one of your flour staples. I promise.


There is a full pound of dark chocolate with 70-72% cocoa in these cookies. And in my world there is no such thing as too much chocolate. However, there are only four tablespoons of butter in these cookies. So on balance it's all good.


Tartine recommends melting the chocolate and butter using the double-boiler method. I used the microwave method. Use whichever method you have had the most success with. 

I am not the first one to share Tartine's Salted Chocolate-Rye Cookies on a food blog. But sometimes being late to the party is a good thing. Several foodbloggers shared the cookies flattened slightly after cooling (and some photos showed a pretty flat cookie). I wanted to make these cookies but I didn't want them to be flat. So I wondered if making a change to the chilling process (sort of but not exactly like the one used in Tara's Chocolate Chip Cookies) would ensure my cookies remain slightly puffy once they cooled to room temperature. If a picture tells a thousand words (or even just a few), these may have answered my question.


This is a very soft dough cookie when initially mixed. It is one that must be chilled for 30-45 minutes before it is scooped out into tablespoon sized balls (an ice cream scoop makes this easier). But the first chilling isn't enough to make it feasible to roll them into balls. Covering the cookie sheet filled with dough 'rough' balls with plastic wrap, they go back in the refrigerator for a second chilling. I waited three hours (because I had some errands to), however, I think a chilling time of at least an hour would work. Making perfect round 'balls' is easier if you allow them to sit out for about 15 minutes before rolling out the 'rough' dough balls.

Topped with flaky (Maldon) sea salt, the cookies are baked in a preheated 350 degree (F) oven for 8-11 minutes. My baking time was closer to 11 minutes, which was probably due to my slightly larger than one tablespoon sized balls of cookie dough.


Biting into this cookie is better than biting into your favorite fudgy brownie. The very slight exterir crunch gives way to an inside having an amazing creamy like, rich chocolately texture. These are definitely decadent, addictive cookies. Even if you think you do not need one more cookie in your cookie making rotation, especially one requiring dark rye flour and/or a dark brown organic sugar (things you might not normally buy) or made with a pound of chocolate, think again. And if you are thinking of waiting to make these cookies until the holidays, think again. 


I brought these cookies to my running group and several of them called me the 'devil'. While in another context I may have frowned at hearing that comparison, it was the best thing anyone said to me all day.

After making and tasting these cookies I ended up buying Tartine's third cookbook, one published two years ago. Again, a little late to the party. If my subtle attempts at encouraging you to visit Annapolis or read the book 'The Martian" are unsuccessful, I really, really hope you make these Salted Chocolate-Rye Cookies. And sooner rather than later. "Beware of missed chances; otherwise it may altogether too late some day."

Recipe
Salted Chocolate-Rye Cookies (ever so slight adaptation to the recipe in Tartine Book No. 3: Modern Ancient Classic Whole)

Ingredients
1 pound bittersweet chocolate (70-72% cocoa), chopped (I used Trader Joe's Belgium Dark Chocolate with 72% cocoa)
4 Tablespoons unsalted butter
3/4 cup whole-grain dark rye flour (recommend Bob's Red Mill)
1 teaspoon baking powder
1/2 teaspoon fine sea salt
4 large eggs, room temperature
1 1/2 cups organic brown sugar, muscovado sugar, or dark brown sugar, packed (I used Trader Joe's Organic Brown sugar)
1 Tablespoon vanilla
Flaky Sea Salt (recommend Maldon)

Directions
1. In a medium sized bowl, add in chopped chocolate and butter. Melt over medium heat in a saucepan filled with one inch of water brought to a simmer (be careful that bottom of the bowl is not touching the water). Stir occasionally until chocolate and butter are melted. Remove from the heat and allow the mixture to cool slightly. Alternately, melt chocolate in the microwave. 
2. In a small bowl, whisk together the rye flour, baking powder and fine sea salt.
3. Place the eggs in the bowl of a standing mixer fitted with a whisk attachment. Whip on medium-high, adding the sugar a few tablespoons at a time, until all the sugar is incorporated.  Turn mixer to high and whip until eggs have tripled in volume and turned very light yellow and fluffy (approximately 6 minutes).
4. Reduce the speed on the mixer to low and add melted chocolate, followed by the the vanilla. Mix to combine, scraping down the sides of the bowl as needed.
5. Add in flour mixture and stir until just combined. Note: The dough will be very soft.
6. Refrigerate dough until it is firm to the touch (approximately 30-45 minutes). Note: If cooled too long, the dough will be hard to scoop.
7. Remove chilled dough from the refrigerator. Using a tablespoon sized ice cream scoop, form rounded balls and place on a cookie sheet lined with parchment paper. Cover the dough balls with plastic wrap and return to the refrigerator for 60-180 minutes.
8. Preheat oven to 350 degrees (F).
9. Remove the cookie dough from the refrigerator and roll each dough ball until round and smooth. Place on a prepared baking sheet, spacing cookies 2 inches apart. Top each mound of dough with a few flakes of sea salt, pressing gently so it adheres. Note: Allowing the chilled dough balls to sit for 10 minutes makes rolling easier.
10. Bake 8-11 minutes or until the cookies have puffed up, have a smooth bottom and a rounded top with a few small cracks. Remove baking sheets from the oven and allow to sit for 2 minutes before transferring to a wire rack. Allow to cool completely. Serve immediately.
Note: Cookies will keep up to 3 days in an airtight container.


Images taken while walking in Central City Philadelphia and the Reading Terminal Market.


Tuesday, September 3, 2019

Chocolate Chip S'mores Cookies (aka Mackle'smores)


And just like that summer is almost, but not yet quite over. There is still time to sit out at a pool (that is, if you are lucky enough to have access to one), still time to have outdoor barbecues (even though you will be joined by the bees), more than enough time to run in sleeveless tanks (thank you Jesus), and still time to take one of those end of summer, almost crowd-free vacations (Westward Ho we go). And between now and the end of month, I will be doing all of those things along with making another batch of these Chocolate Chip S'mores Cookies (aka Mackle'smores). If there was ever a cookie to have all of the ooey-gooey, messy, marshmallowy, chocolatey, deliciousness of a s'more without having to start a fire, this would be THE one! I predict after taking a bite of these cookies you will not miss all of the work of starting a fire. Although you might miss some of an outdoor fire's ambiance. However, given the choice between ambiance and an incredibly delicious, somewhat addictive cookie, I will take the cookie every time.


Everything about these Chocolate Chip S'mores Cookies (aka Mackle'smores) is a bit unexpected. And to some extent, surprising. Your eyes tell you it looks like a chocolate chip cookie, but your taste buds will tell you your eyes have deceived you. Yes there is chopped chocolate in the cookie, but there are also miniature marshmallows. And the surprises don't stop there. From the hint of cinnamon flavor in the cookie, to the graham cracker bottom, to the melted puddle of dark chocolate on top, this may the s'more you have been waiting for all summer! Maybe your whole life.


If you have never had a version of s'mores like these before, you are in for the absolutely BEST treat! They are definitely something I put in the 'worth the wait' category.

A recipe for a cookie called a Mackle'smore and sold in a bakery in Seattle was recently shared on the Cooking Channel. While this recipe might look similar to that one, but there are several differences between the two. Instead of using only light brown sugar, this one uses a combination of light and dark brown sugars; uses both baking powder and baking soda; the amount of vanilla is increased to 1 1/2 teaspoons; flaky sea salt is sprinkled on top; the amount of chopped chocolate is almost doubled; both a piece of dark chocolate and a marshmallow slice is added to the top; the cookie dough shaped into balls chills in the refrigerator for at least 4 hours or overnight before baking; the baking temperature is 375 degrees (F) instead of 400 degrees (F); and lastly, the cookies were topped with a Ghiradelli instead of a Hershey Bar. Using a Ghiradelli chocolate bar on top of these s'mores was a game changer. 


Having been a loyal fan of Tara's Chocolate Chip Cookies for a while now, it has been a long time since I have made a chocolate chip cookie dough using room temperature versus melted butter. But taking out the standing mixer to create the dough was worth the effort. After the dough comes together, the chopped dark chocolate and mini marshmallows are folded in to the batter using a spatula. If you beat them in using your mixer you will break up some of the mini-marshmallows (one of the lesson learned in the making of these cookies) and you will affect the texture and s'mores eating experience.


The second lesson learned came when I baked the cookies. Thinking I could fit a dozen cookies on the baking sheet turned out not to the best idea as they spread a bit in the oven. So if perfect looking cookies are your thing, make only nine cookies at a time. Although having less cookies on the baking pan also makes putting the piece of chocolate and (if using) marshmallow slice on top before returning the pan to oven to finish baking so much easier.


The third lesson came when I added a thin slice of a large marshmallow on top of each cookie. I may or may not continue to do this going forward. I loved the look of the melted marshmallow and chocolate on top of the cookie, but it made packaging and storing the cookies messy. Maybe I would just top with one miniature marshmallow rather than a marshmallow slice. Or maybe if I was serving them to a crowd on the day I made them I would still go with my Plan A. In other words, you have options.

The total baking time for the Chocolate Chip S'mores Cookies ranges from 13-14 minutes. However, the cookies temporarily come out of the oven at the 10 minute mark. Working quickly, they are topped with the piece of chocolate (pressed in the center) and marshmallow (lightly pressed in), before going back into the oven for another three or four minutes of baking.


Serve these cookies warm or at room temperature. But when eaten warm they are better than eating a s'more made over a roaring fire. Seriously. 


Each time I make a new cookie recipe, the cookie bar gets higher and higher. Which makes me wonder if there are new drop the mic, insanely delicious cookies left in my future. While I am not ruling out the possibility of discovering and sharing more new cookie recipes with you, these Chocolate Chip S'mores Cookies (aka Mackle'smores) have definitely given me a moment of pause.

If you want to savor and/or prolong all the feels of summer, make these cookies. They would make for a great dessert at weekend gathering or as a perfect end to an afternoon of watching fall sports on television. Although honestly, you really shouldn't need a reason to make them.

Recipe
Chocolate Chip S'mores Cookies (aka Mackle'smores) Inspired by a recipe shared on the Cooking Channel
Makes 24-26 cookies

Ingredient
2 3/4 cups (358 g) all-purpose flour
1 teaspoon ground cinnamon
1 teaspoon kosher salt
1 teaspoon baking powder
1 teaspoon baking soda
3/4 cup unsalted butter (1 1/2 sticks), room temperature
3/4 cup (150 g) light brown sugar, firmly packed
1/4 cup (50 g) dark brown sugar, firmly packed
1/2 cup (100 g) granulated sugar
2 large eggs, room temperature
1 1/2 teaspoons vanilla
7 ounces (200 g) dark chocolate, coarsely chopped
1 generous cup (80 g) miniature marshmallows (plus more for the top)
26 store-bought graham cracker halves (see note below)
7 ounces dark chocolate squares, cut in half (see note below) or a dark chocolate candy bar cut into pieces
Flaky Sea Salt

Directions
1. Whisk together the flour, baking soda, baking powder, kosher salt, and cinnamon. Set aside.
2. In the bowl of a standing mixer fitted with a paddle attachment, beat the butter, granulated sugar and both brown sugars until light and creamy (approximately 3 minutes).
3. Add in the eggs one at a time, beating just until incorporated.
4. Mix in the vanilla.
5. Add in the dry ingredients, beating until well blended.
6. Using a spatula, fold in the chopped chocolate and miniature marshmallows.
7. Use an ice cream scoop yielding golf ball sized balls to form dough balls. Place on a cookie sheet lined in parchment paper. Chill dough balls covered for at least 4 hours or overnight. Note: Keep the balls of dough chilled while you bake each batch.
8. Preheat oven to 375 degrees (F). Line baking sheets with parchment paper.
9. Place 9 graham cracker halves on the baking sheet. Top each graham cracker with a ball of the chilled dough. Lightly sprinkle with flaky sea salt.
10. Bake for 10 minutes. Remove from oven. Working quickly, press a piece of the chocolate square into the center of the cookie. Return to oven and continue baking for 3-4 minutes or until cookies are golden brown on the edges. Note: For more marshamallowy ooey-gooey goodness, also top the almost done cookies with another miniature marshmallow or a thin slice of a regular sized marshmallow. Omit the extra marshmallow slice on top for less messiness.
11. Remove from oven. Let cookies cool for at least 5 minutes on the baking pan before transferring to a cooling rack.
12. Serve the cookies warm or let come to room temperature. They are the BEST on the day they are made, but still really good the next day (if stored in a sealed container).

Notes: (1) I used HoneyMaid Graham Crackers for these cookies. I had considered recommending the use of another graham cracker brand, however, all of the graham cracker reviews I read gave the HoneyMaid Graham Crackers the highest marks for use in baking. (2) I used two bars of Ghiradelli Intense Dark Salted Caramel Cascade. Each bar yields 8 squares, which when cut in half will give you 16 pieces. You will have a few squares left over. Instead of the Salted Caramel Bars, use their Dark Chocolate bars. (3) I had baked 12 cookies at a time, however, recommend baking only 9 at a time for two reasons. It is easier to top each of the semi-baked cookies with the chocolate and/or extra-marshmallow (if using) and the cookies do spread a bit during the baking process.

Saturday, July 11, 2020

Levain Style Chocolate Chip Cookies


Apparently I have a thing for chocolate chip cookies. Or maybe I will never be satisfied. Ever since discovering and sharing the recipe for Tara's Chocolate Chip Cookies, I was convinced I never needed another chocolate chip cookie recipe in my life. Actually I never thought I would ever entertain the idea of making another version of a chocolate chip cookie. Evidently I had been holding out believing the sage old advice of 'never say never'. But two completely random events caused me to ultimately cave. The first was when a friend sent me a packet of recipes, including one for a Levain style chocolate chip cookie, she thought I might be interested in making. Considering she lives more than two thousand miles away, this was clearly a thoughtful, selfless gesture. In other words, she wouldn't get to be a taste tester. While scrolling through Instagram posts, I came across a posting from hi.imadehtis featuring a showdown of seven copycat Levain Bakery chocolate chip cookies. Call it serendipitous, but the chocolate chip cookie recipe sent by my friend and the winning showdown recipe were one in the same. I took it as a sign from the universe. One I couldn't ignore. 


This wasn't going to be my first attempt at replicating the Levain style chocolate chip cookies. Last year I shared the recipe for Gigantic Chocolate Chip Cookies, my version of one shared by foodblogger, cookbook author Stella Parks. And just like that recipe, I tinkered with the Copycat Levain Chocolate Chip Cookie recipe from Delish. Three of the changes made were intentional, but one was an unintentional oversight. But that unintentional change turned out to be a fortuitous one. Could I choose a favorite between the Gigantic Chocolate Chip Cookies and these Levain Style Chocolate Chip Cookies? I can't. Because I really, really liked them both. However, if I wanted to satisfy my craving for a ginormous chocolate chip without having to wait more than 3 hours, then I would make these cookies. If I could show some restraint, I would make the Gigantic Chocolate Chip Cookies.


So you might be wondering, if I already had a recipe for a Levain style cookie, why would I make another version? Like I said earlier, maybe I will never be satisfied. But in all seriousness, everything about this Levain Style Chocolate Chip Cookie defies everything I thought I knew about making cookies. Not only does it use cold butter, thus eliminating the need to take butter out to come to room temperature, it mixes in the chocolate chips and toasted walnuts before the flour is mixed in. What??!! And that's not all. The eggs are the last ingredient to be mixed in! The process of making these cookies was such a significant departure from all of the other cookies I have ever made, chocolate chip ones aside, caused me take pause. I almost didn't make them. Thank goodness I over rode my cookie baking instincts this time!


From start to finish you can be eating a incredibly delicious, satisfying, warm Levain Style Chocolate Chip Cookies in slightly more than three hours! For those of you with a limited ability hold off satisfy ing a craving, these are the cookies are for you!


When making these cookies, I strongly recommend you look for larger sized chocolate chips (not the regular, average sized ones) as you really want the chocolate to have a strong presence in each bite of the cookie. Additionally, use toasted versus instead of raw walnuts as toasting them is game changing flavor enhancer in any cookie. 

This recipe makes eight GINORMOUS cookies. Each ball of dough weighs a little more than 6 ounces (172-176 grams). If you don't have a scale, evenly divide the dough into eight large balls.

When baking a batch of these cookies, you will need two baking pans. One for the cookies to bake on and one turned upside down underneath the pan holding the cookies you are baking. Turning one of the baking pans upside down helps to prevent the bottom of the cookies from getting too dark as they bake at a relatively high oven temperature (375 degrees F) for a relatively long time (24-26 minutes). And due to the size of these cookies, bake the eight (8) balls of dough in two batches.

Cookies and ice cream or cookies and milk? Which kind of chocolate chip cookie eater are you? And, yes, you can be both. You don't have to choose which one to go with these crispy on the outside, slightly doughy on the inside monstrously scrumptious, oh so satisfying cookies. Just when you think you didn't know or even believed your life needed another chocolate chip cookie recipe, one comes along to tempt you. To prove you should say never say never. If you have gotten this far in the blog post, the universe has now also sent a 'you need these Levain Style Chocolate Chip Cookies in your life" message to you. 

Recipe
Levain Style Chocolate Chip Cookies  (inspired by the Copycat Levain Bakery Cookies from Delish)
Makes 8 ginormous cookies

Ingredients
2 cups (260 g) all-purpose flour
1 cup (113 g) cake flour
2 teaspoons baking powder
1/2 teaspoon baking soda
1/2 teaspoon kosher salt
1 cup (8 oz/226 g) unsalted butter, chilled and cubed (recommend a European-style butter)
2/3 cup (134 g) light brown sugar (or combination of light and brown sugar) - See Notes
2/3 cup (134 g) granulated sugar
2 teaspoons vanilla
2 cups (340 g) dark chocolate, chocolate chips - See Notes
1 cup (4 oz/112g) walnut halves, toasted, very coarsely chopped
2 large eggs, lightly beaten
Flaky sea salt for finishing (optional, but really good)

Directions
1. Combine the all-purpose flour, cake flour, baking powder, baking soda and kosher salt in a medium sized bowl. Whisk to combine. Set aside.
2. Using a standing mixer fitted with a paddle attachment, beat cold butter on low speed until the butter cubes lose their shape (about 30-45 seconds).
3. Beat in the granulated sugar (about 30 seconds)
4. Beat in the brown sugar and vanilla (about 30 seconds). Mixture will be thick and creamy.
5. Mix in the chocolate chips and walnuts to distribute evenly in the batter (about 30 seconds).
6. On low speed mix in the dry ingredients in three additions. Do not over beat, but there should be no streaks of flour showing.
7. Add in the lightly beaten eggs in two additions. Beat until mixture forms a cohesive dough.
8. Divide the dough into 8 balls. Balls of dough will weigh slightly more than 6 ounces each (or 172-176 g).
9. Place the balls of dough on a baking sheet, lightly cover with plastic wrap and chill in the refrigerator for 2-3 hours.
10. Preheat oven to 375 degrees (F). Get out two baking sheet pans Line only one baking pan with parchment paper. 
11. Place 4 balls of the cookie on the parchment paper lined baking sheet. Lightly sprinkle with flaky sea salt. Place this baking sheet on top of an upside down baking sheet so the bottoms of each baking pan are touching. (Yes, you are using two baking sheets.)
12. Bake cookies for 22-24 minutes or until the edges and spots on top are lightly golden. Do not over bake the cookies. Let cookies rest on the cookie sheet for at least 5 minutes. 
13. Remove from baking sheet and place on a cooling rack. Let cool slightly or let come to room temperature before serving. 
14. Store any left over cookies in a tightly sealed container or wrap in a cellophane bag.

Notes: (1) I used a combination of light and dark brown sugars, about a 2/3 to 1/3 ratio. (2) I used Nestle's 53% Cacao chocolate chips because of their larger size. Next time I make them I would increase the amount of chocolate chips to at least 2 1/4 cups (383 g). (3) To toast walnuts, preheat the oven to 350 degrees (F). Place walnut halves on a baking sheet and bake for approximately 10 minutes. (4) There were multiple changes made to the inspiration recipe: cake flour was decreased from 1 1/4 cups to 1 cup, kosher salt was increased from 1/4 teaspoon to 1/2 teaspoon, 2 teaspoons of vanilla were added, and the cookies were topped with flaky sea salt.

Monday, November 21, 2016

Oatmeal Raisin Cookies


"Some of the most beautiful places in the world, your true soulmate, or obvious answers are staring you right in the face, and you don't even notice them." On a gorgeous unseasonably warm day in November, a friend and I went hiking in Starved Rock State Park. A first for me, a second return trip for her. With no knowledge of the terrain or trail conditions, we embarked on an ambitious 5 mile "catch your breath, break a sweat, took only one wrong turn" hike. Not sure if we felt more accomplished or ravenous when we finished. How or why it took me so long to discover the incredible canyons, bluffs, rock formations, waterfalls, views of the Illinois River, and multi-layered landscapes of a place only the eight-four miles away from my home is the proverbial '$64,000 question'. If I hadn't spent all but about three years of my semi-long life in Illinois, maybe I could come up with a credible answer. If I was someone who didn't drive hundreds of miles to hike through parks in surrounding states, maybe I would be able to put forth a plausible reason why I overlooked the one located in my own backyard. If I didn't own two pairs of hiking shoes, a set of hiking poles, and more outdoor running/hiking gear currently in inventory in any number of athletic stores, I could hide behind having a lack of gear. Well, the simplest answer is I wasn't able to see what was almost right in front of me. With my 'virtual' blinders now off, I am already planning a return trip as well as an overnight stay in one of the rustic cabins. I need to make up for all of the years of lost opportunities of embracing all of the park's wonders. Although I could do without another getting lost experience.


Which brings me to talking about this "on a scale of 1 to 10, it's a 38" Oatmeal Raisin Cookie. With my nephew returning home for an extended Thanksgiving visit, I texted him to ask if there was a cookie he wanted me to make. I thought or was rather pretty certain he would request Irish Shortbread. What he texted back was 'oatmeal raisin'. My first thought was 'yikes, I don't think I have a really great oatmeal raisin cookie recipe'. Seriously. With his plane set to land twelve hours after the text exchange, I didn't have time to go on a down the rabbit hole Oatmeal Cookie recipe hunt. But I did have one for a killer Oatmeal Currant Cookie. Which meant the over the top Oatmeal Raisin Cookie recipe was almost staring me right in the face. Cookie crisis and failure to live up to the best aunt in the universe reputation averted!


All I needed to do was to gather up the ingredients and make a few minor tweaks to a cookie recipe where, fortunately the dough didn't need to chill for several hours or overnight. It's also one of those recipes where all of the ingredients are almost always in your refrigerator and cabinets. 


A simple cookie needs simple ingredients. Save the fancy raisins and imported steel cut oats for something else. These Oatmeal Raisin cookies want, need, must, have to be made only with Thompson Seedless Raisins and Quaker Old-Fashioned Oats.

If you are seeking Oatmeal Raisin Cookie perfection, use pastry flour. This high starch, low protein flour creates a fluffy, meltingly tender, crumbly texture in cookies. Most bakeries use either cake flour or pastry flour which may explain in part why bakery cookies usually are nothing short of beautiful deliciousness. With whole wheat pastry flour now readily available, we all can now create our own bakery perfect cookie confections! 


After sifting the dry ingredients (pastry flour, baking soda, cinnamon and kosher salt), the butter and sugars are beat until light and fluffy. This usually takes at least 5 minutes. Don't be tempted to shorten the sugars-butter beating time. Eggs are added one at a time. After adding the vanilla, the sifted dry ingredients are added in eight additions until just incorporated. With the mixer on low, the oats and raisins are added. Be careful to not over beat the really, really thick batter. 

There is almost a 2 to 1 brown sugar to white sugar ratio in these cookies. However, dark brown sugar accounts for the majority of the 'brown sugar' used. Dark brown sugar has a slightly more complex flavor than light brown sugar resulting in a toffee or caramel like finish to a baked good. I might even go so far as to say the molasses in the dark brown sugar adds a kind of nutty flavor to this Oatmeal Raisin cookie.


Like a bakery cookie these Oatmeal Raisin Cookies are ginormous (approximately 3" to 4" in diameter). Containing slightly more than two tablespoons of dough, the cookie dough balls are golf ball sized. Before putting the baking sheet in a preheated 350 degree (F) oven, the cookies are slightly flattened. You will slightly flatten them again when you rotate the cookie sheet after they have baked for 7 minutes. Total baking time for the Oatmeal Raisin Cookies ranges from 17-20 minutes.


If you love a crunchy, slightly chewy in the center Oatmeal Raisin Cookies, cookie delirium awaits you. Allowing the baked cookie to cool on the baking sheet for about 2-3 minutes before transferring to a cooling rack further contributes to their crunchy texture. For a slightly less crispy texture, transfer the baked cookies to a cooling rack immediately after they come out of the oven. 


Another dominant flavor in these Oatmeal Raisin Cookies is cinnamon. If I tell you there are three tablespoons of cinnamon in these cookies, you might think I be sending you down the wrong cinnamon path. But I wouldn't do that to you. I am reluctant to suggest backing down the amount of cinnamon to two tablespoons (if you aren't the biggest fan of cinnamon in your oatmeal cookies) as the three tablespoons is what further differentiates these Oatmeal Raisin Cookies from all others. 

You can reduce the amount of cinnamon if you want to, but would encourage you to stay the course on this recipe and use the three tablespoons. It's what a '38 on a scale of 1 to 10' Oatmeal Raisin Cooking needs.


The next time I want to bring a batch of cookies to a gathering, make a welcome home treat, assemble a gift for friends, put life sustaining snacks in a hiking backpack, the decision to make either Tara's Chocolate Chip Cookies or these Oatmeal Raisin Cookies is going to be a really difficult one. Although, if I had to make that decision today, these throw down worthy Oatmeal Raisin Cookies would win out. 


If there is room for only one bold, spicy, crispy, soul satisfying, addictive Oatmeal Raisin Cookie recipe in your life, it should be this one. Quite possibly after one bite of these cookies, they may be the only ones you will ever want. With this amazing recipe now staring you in the face, what will you do?

Recipe
Oatmeal Raisin Cookies (slight adaptation to the Corner Bakery Cafe Oatmeal Raisin Cookie recipe)
Makes 40-46 large 3" to 4" sized cookies.

Ingredients
3 1/2 cups whole wheat pastry flour
4 teaspoons baking soda
3 Tablespoons cinnamon
1 1/2 teaspoons kosher salt
3/4 pound (3 sticks) unsalted butter, room temperature
1 1/4 cups plus 1 teaspoon granulated sugar
2 cups dark brown sugar, firmly packed
1/3 cup light brown sugar, firmly packed
2 large eggs, room temperature
2 teaspoons vanilla
Scant 4 1/2 cups old fashioned rolled oats (Recommend Old-Fashioned Quaker Oats)
2 to 2 1/2 cups Thompson dark seedless raisins

Directions
1. Preheat oven to 350 degrees (F). Line two  baking sheets with parchment paper and set aside.
2. Sift flour, baking soda, cinnamon, and kosher salt in a medium bowl. Set aside.
3. In a standing mixer fitted with a paddle attachment, beat butter and sugars together until light and fluffy (at least 5 minutes). Do not rush this step.
4. Add eggs in one at a time, beating until fully incorporated.
5. Beat in vanilla.
6. Add sifted flour mixture in 8 batches, just until incorporated.
7. Slowly mix in oats and raisins.
8. Using an ice cream scoop, scoop up the equivalent of 2 generous tablespoons (approximately the side of a golf ball). Place on prepared baking sheet (no more than 9 dough balls to a tray). Flatten balls slightly.
9. Bake for 17-20 minutes, rotating the sheet after 7 minutes and slightly flattening again, to ensure even making. Bake until cookies are golden and set.
10. For a crunchier cookie, allow the cookies to cool on baking sheet for at least 2-3 minutes before transferring to a cooling rack. For a slightly softer cookie, immediately transfer baked cookies to the cooling rack.
11. Store cooled cookies in a tightly covered container or package in cellophane bags tightly tied.

Notes: (1) For a less molasses flavored cookie, use 1 cup dark brown sugar and 1 1/3 cups light brown sugar, firmly packed. (2) I used 2 generous cups of Thompson seedless raisins, but may want to increase to 2 1/2 cups to ensure each cookie has a greater raisin presence. (3) These cookies have a great cinnamon flavor. If you desire a more subtle cinnamon flavor, reduce cinnamon to 2 Tablespoons. But you may be sorry for making that decision. (4) Recommend placing baking tray in the center of the oven and baking one tray at a time.


Views of the Illinois River and changing/falling leaves seen from the trails at Starved Rock State Park in Utica, Illinois (November 2016)