Showing posts with label Breakfast. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Breakfast. Show all posts

Monday, March 20, 2017

Smoky Cauliflower Frittata


Happy first day of spring! Here's to the return of fat-bellied robins, green lush landscapes, farmer's markets, outdoor entertaining, planting herbs, and taking my bicycle out for long rides. The older I get the more I appreciate what the change in seasons brings. Particularly feelings of self-renewal. Longer days, warmer weather, and more vibrant landscapes always increase my energy level. Not that I am a slacker by any sense of the imagination, but I just seem to operate on a slightly higher ramped up level when spring arrives. However, I am not quite sure I am ready to put all of that energy into the kind of use the person who shall remain nameless would like to see. Cleaning out and organizing closets/dresser or purging things that haven't seen the light of day in decades aren't exactly the things I like to do with my energy surge. Although life would probably be so much easier if I didn't have to spend so much time looking for things. Maybe this will be the year. Anything is possible.


For as much as I love eggs, cheese, and most vegetables it's rather surprising there are not more frittatas in my life. Considering they are so much easier to make than an omelet, quiche, a chorizo and egg piperade, uovo al forno (baked eggs), or even herb and cheese baked eggs, frittatas should be making more regular appearances at my table. Sometimes some kind of push or some kind of wake up to call is all I need to get back to making foods with great flavor and versatility. This time it came in the form of a dinner at my sister's house. Yes, that would be my one and only younger sister, the one who manages to discover some really great recipes before I do.


The recipe for this Smoky Cauliflower Frittata is one Yotam Ottolenghi shared in his cookbook "Plenty: Vibrant Vegetable Recipes from London's Ottolenghi". A chef and cookbook I had learned about from my sister several years ago.


If anyone has a flair for making vegetarian dishes feel substantial, satisfying, and deeply flavorful, it would be Yotam Ottolenghi. And his recipe for this frittata does not disappoint. It is everything a frittata should be and then some. It is hearty, it is a savory custard, it feels indulgent, it and it could not be easier to make.

The smoky mozzarella, an aged cheddar, some creme fraiche, dijon mustard, and a sweet smoky paprika give this frittata a depth of flavor unlike any other frittata you have ever had. It isn't just the combination of ingredients used, it's the amount of each of them in relationship to the number of eggs (only 6).


There are two parts to this frittata: the egg custard and the cauliflower.


But let me also spend some time talking about some of the ingredients in the custard. From the smoky mozzarella (scamorza), to the aged cheddar, to the dijon mustard, to the freshly chopped chives, to the creme fraiche, to the sweet smoky paprika, the ingredients in this frittata matter.  When looking for the mozzarella, you may come across cheese labeled only as scamorza. Unless it says smoky scarmorza, you don't want to buy that cheese. The smoked mozzarella will have a very light brown, thin skin on it and it will come in either ball or sliced form. When choosing a cheddar, look for any white cheddar two years or older. The smokey sweet paprika adds a complex flavor to the frittata. The original recipe called for 2 teaspoons (which I used), however, by reducing the amount to 1 1/2 teaspoons you would still be able to keep the focus on the flavor rather than on the heat and smokiness. If you haven't cooked with smokey sweet paprika before, I would recommend you use only 1 1/2 teaspoons the first time you make this frittata. Instead of the richness that cream brings to most frittatas, this one uses creme fraiche. It's thicker, less tangy, and richer in flavor than sour cream. It is also slightly more expensive than sour cream. If there was ever a time to not think about cost, this would be one of those times. And last but not least, there is the dijon mustard. The frittata is made with two, yes two Tablespoons of it. Not all dijon mustards are the same. Choose a really good one (see note below for a recommendation).

The cauliflower goes through a two step cooking process before the custard is added to it. In a pan of boiling water, a small head of cauliflower cut into bit sized florets, are cooked until semi-cooked (approximately 4-6 minutes). Not too soft, not hard would be the non-technical way of defining semi-cooked. Drained and dried, the cauliflower florets are then cooked cooked in olive oil until lightly golden brown (approximately 5 minutes). Pressing on the florets lightly with a spatula helps to sear or brown them.


With the cauliflower lightly golden brown, the custard is poured into the pan. Working quickly, use a fork to spread the cauliflower evenly in the pan. Over medium heat, the frittata cooks on top of the stove for approximately 5 minutes. After sprinkling some of the remaining grated cheese over the top the pan goes into the preheated 375 degree (F) oven for 10-12 minutes, or until the frittata is set.


After removing the frittata from the oven, allow to rest for several minutes before cutting into wedges and serving. While it is best served hot out of the oven, I found myself picking at some of the room temperature leftovers and feeling as happy as I was taking a warm bite of it.


If making this frittata for lunch or dinner, simply serve with a peppery green salad tossed with a light (champagne or lemon) vinaigrette, and some warm bread. To make it even heartier (and appeal to the non-vegetarians in the group), bring some grilled steak to the table. And yes, the idea for the grilled steak came from my sister. The perfectly done (medium-rare) thick strip steaks served at dinner were made by my grill master brother-in-law. 

Celebrate the arrival of spring this weekend by serving this frittata for breakfast, brunch, lunch, or dinner. Open up a good bottle of wine and invite friends or family over. When serving this frittata for brunch, day drinking is allowed and encouraged. 

Recipe
Smoky Cauliflower Frittata (inspired by Yotam Ottolenghi's Smoky Frittata recipe from his cookbook "Plenty: Vibrant Vegetable Recipes from London's Ottolenghi"
Serves 4 to 6

Ingredients
1 small head of cauliflower, cut into medium florets
6 large eggs
4 Tablespoons creme fraiche
2 Tablespoons dijon mustard 
1 1/2- 2 teaspoons sweet smoked paprika
3 Tablespoons finely chopped chives
5 ounces smoked mozzarella or smoked scamorza, coarsely grated (including skin for extra flavor)
2 ounces aged (at least 2 years old) cheddar, coarsely grated
1/2 teaspoon kosher salt
1/4 teaspoon black pepper
2 Tablespoons good quality olive oil

Directions
1. Simmer the cauliflower in a large pan of boiling water for 4-6 minutes, or until semi-cooked. Remove from boiling water and allow to dry on a paper towel lined plate.
2. Preheat the oven to 375 degrees (F).
3. In a large bowl, whisk together the eggs creme fraiche, dijon mustard, and sweet smoked paprika. Make sure the eggs and creme fraiche are thoroughly blended.
4. Stir in the chives and 3/4 of the grated cheeses. Season with kosher salt and pepper.
5. Heat olive oil in a medium sized (10 inch) ovenproof frying or cast iron pan. Fry the semi-cooked cauliflower for about 5 minutes, or until lightly golden brown on at least one side.  Note: Press down lightly with a spatula to get brownness on one side of the cauliflower.
6. Pour the egg mixture over the cauliflower. Working quickly, use a fork to spread the cauliflower evenly in the pan. Without continuing to stir, cook frittata on medium heat for about 5 minutes.
7. Scatter remaining 1/4 of the grated cheeses over the top and place pan in oven.
8. Bake for 10-12 minutes or until frittata is set.
9. Remove from oven. Allow to rest several minutes before cutting into wedges. Serve immediately.

Notes: (1) I used 2 teaspoons of the sweet smoked paprika (and loved the flavor), however, may consider reducing to 1 1/2 teaspoons the next time I make it. (2) My favorite dijon mustard is Maille. (3) Use a good quality frying pan (preferably one non-stick) or a cast iron pan when making the frittata. Lodge makes great cast iron pans. (4) Served with an arugula salad lightly tossed with a champagne or lemon vinaigrette you have a perfect meal. (5) Leftovers, if you have any, can be reheated in the microwave.

Winter snow shadows (Morton Arboretum, March 2017).

Wednesday, January 25, 2017

Superhero Muffins


Until recently, the words healthy, nutritious, and delicious seemed highly unlikely to be used together to describe anything on any list of favorite, crave worthy foods. At least in my world. Additionally, the idea of reaching for a muffin not slathered in icing or cream cheese frosting would have caused someone to ask 'are you alright?' If a couple of my running friends had not sung the praises of these Superhero Muffins, I may have continued to make delicious, unhealthy, and relatively nutritious muffin choices. Ones more than likely having a thick layer of topping made of either confectionary sugar or cream cheese or both. Pre- and post-run eating decisions have always been a bit of a challenge for me. Worries about how my body would react or what my stomach would tolerate generally has led me to make one of two choices: Eat nothing or eat something not likely to aid in optimizing my running performance or recovery. Fortunately change is possible.


In their recently released cookbook, "Run Fast Eat Slow", Shalane Flanagan and Elyse Kopecky shared their recipe for Superhero Muffins. These two highly accomplished runners have not only shattered my healthy/nutritious/delicious theory but they have gifted me with a long overdue nourishment option. I would be doing a great disservice to these muffins if I led to you believe they should only be eaten by runners, cyclists, swimmers, hikers, yogis, or athletes of any kind. Regardless of our level of physical activity (or non-activity), we all need these Superhero Muffins in our lives.


What makes these dense, flavorful, moist, satisfying, insanely delicious muffins so healthy and nutritious? Grated zucchini, grated carrots, toasted walnuts, raisins, cinnamon, nutmeg, vanilla, sea salt, eggs, melted butter, maple syrup, oatmeal, and almond meal. In other words, they are not made with processed sugars or processed white flour.


These Superhero Muffins are super easy to make. Two bowls, a whisk, and a spoon are all you need to create the batter. Wet and dry ingredients are mixed separately before being combined.

If you don't want to buy a whole bag of Almond Meal, stores like Whole Foods allow you to buy what you need. Although after you taste these muffins, you might decide it's more convenient to buy a bag of Almond Meal so you don't have to keep running back to the store to get some. Spoiler Alert: You will make these muffins more than once.

Grated zucchini can add 'too' much moisture to your batter, resulting in a 'wet mess' of a muffin. There are two things you can do to minimize this. Begin making this recipe by first grating the zucchini and allowing it to drain in a colander. When getting ready to measure, press down with a paper towel to remove more of the moisture. Using these two techniques resulted in a perfect muffin consistency.


Not willing to leave well enough alone, I made several changes to the original recipe. First, I toasted the walnuts before chopping and adding them to the mixture of dry ingredients. Second, I reduced the amount of nutmeg from 1/2 teaspoon to 1/4 teaspoon. As much as I like nutmeg, I wanted the cinnamon flavor to shine through. And lastly I used Grade A instead of Grade B maple syrup. So what's the difference other than flavor between the two of them? While both grades of maple syrup have many nutritional benefits and contains no fat, 'the potency and richness of Grade B maple syrup amplifies its health benefits'. If you want the absolute healthiest version of these Superhero Muffins, use the Grade B maple syrup.


Some have recommended adding a half cup of dark chocolate chips to the muffins. The nutritional value of dark chocolate comes into play when it's cocoa content ranges from 70-85%.

The are innumerable benefits to these Superhero Muffins, including but not limited to, the intoxicating aroma they have while baking. If, or rather when, you make them for friends and/or family, withhold telling them they are 'healthy and nutritious' until they taste them. Just in case they too operate under the assumption healthy and nutritious means they have a low deliciousness factor.

Recipe
Super Hero Muffins (Slight adaptation to the Superhero Muffins recipe shared in the cookbook Run Fast East Slow by Shalane Flanagan and Elyse Kopecky)
Makes 12 standard sized muffins

Ingredients
2 cups almond meal
1 cup old fashioned rolled oats
1/2 cup walnuts, toasted and chopped
1/2 cup raisins or currants (optional)
2 teaspoons cinnamon
1/4 to 1/2 teaspoon ground nutmeg
1/2 teaspoon sea salt
1 teaspoon baking soda
3 large eggs, lightly beaten
1 cup unpeeled and grated zucchini, drained and squeezed to remove any remaining moisture (about 1 medium sized zucchini)
1 cup peeled and grated carrot (about 2 medium sized carrots)
6 Tablespoons unsalted butter, melted and cooled slightly
1/2 cup Grade A or B (real) maple syrup 
1 teaspoon vanilla
Optional: 1/2 cup chopped dark chocolate (at least 70% cocoa)
Optional: 12 walnut halves for topping each muffin

Directions
1. Preheat oven to 350 degrees (F). Line a 12 cup stand muffin tin with paper muffin cups.
2. In a large bowl combine the almond meal, oats, walnuts, raisins, cinnamon, nutmeg, baking soda and salt. Also add chopped chocolate, if using.
3. In a medium sized bowl, mix together the eggs, grated zucchini, grated carrots, melted butter, maple syrup and vanilla.
4. Add wet ingredients to dry ingredients. Mix until just combined.
5. Using an ice cream scoop, spoon the batter into the muffin cups, filling each to the brim. Top each with a walnut half if using.
6. Bake for 25-35 minutes, or until tops are nicely browned and lightly spring back when pressed in the center and/or a cake tester comes out clean when inserted into the center of the muffin.
7. Transfer muffins to a cooling rack. Allow to cool completely before serving.
8. Individually wrap with plastic wrap or bag and store any remaining muffins in either the refrigerator or freezer.

Notes: (1) If you use gluten-free oatmeal, these muffins will be completely gluten free. (2) Grate, drain and press dry your zucchini before measuring. (3) Muffins can be stored in the freezer. Can defrost in the microwave on low power for 20-30 seconds.

Monday, January 2, 2017

Browned Butter Hummingbird Coffee Cake with Mascarpone Glaze


For those of you who may be thinking this first post of the new year is nothing more than a wicked attempt at tempting you to already break your new year's resolution of eating healthier foods, like adding more fruits and nuts to your diet, you would be wrong. Because this Browned Butter Hummingbird Coffee Cake with Mascarpone Glaze is made with bananas, pineapple, and pecans. In other words, it's a cake made with fruit and nuts. My definition of a win-win, glass half full recipe! Have I told you lately that seeing possibility where others see improbability (aka rationalizing) is one of my strengths? Or my belief that life shouldn't be about deprivation but rather moderation? As much as I can be a little redundant with my musings here on the blog, sometimes a little redundancy is a good thing. Really it is.


There were many reasons why I wanted to make this Browned Butter Hummingbird Coffee Cake with Mascarpone Glaze. Was it because I was in need of a great, new coffee cake recipe, because anything with the words hummingbird cake in the title immediately gets my attention, or because I needed a bribe to get the person who shall remain nameless to take up all of the cumbersome, heavy holiday boxes up to the attic? The answer? All of the above.


While one of my last year's intentions was to reduce the number of cookbooks and cooking magazines I buy, I couldn't resist buying the January/February 2017 issue of 'bake from Scratch'. Even the long checkout line at the bookstore couldn't deter me from buying it. Filled with a number of recipes just begging me to make them, the Browned Butter Hummingbird Coffee Cake seemed to tug a little harder at my heartstrings. Add the words browned butter to a recipe and well, suddenly I find myself on a nothing will get in my way mission.


As with most recipes I come across, I either leave them alone or feel compelled to tinker with them just a teeny tiny bit. Whenever I make any changes it sort of feels I have given myself permission to color outside of the lines, to break some rules, to take a leap of faith. In other words, it's what being a little radical looks like in my world. To be perfectly honest, the recipe for the Browned Butter Hummingbird Coffee Cake was just about perfect. Toasting the pecans before adding them to the streusel was a minor nuance. Changing out the sour cream based glaze for the mascarpone glaze would be one of those changes falling into the category of personal preferences. And making this coffee cake in a springform pan instead of cake pan (9 inch instead of 8 inch) was nothing more than a convenience.

What can be better than a coffee cake topped with a butter, brown sugar, cinnamon, sugar, pecan streusel? One having some of it inside of it! If you are looking to amplify the flavor of the streusel, toast the pecans in a preheated 350 degree (F) oven for 8 to 9 minutes. I promise, you won't be sorry for this tiny extra step.

The browned butter is the not-so secret transformational ingredient taking this Hummingbird Coffee Cake to a whole new level of nutty deliciousness and a deeper complexity. When butter has melted to the point where the water has been cooked out, the remaining milk solids begin to brown and take on a nutty flavor. Make sure to scrape out all of the little brown bits into your batter as they hold incredible flavor.


After spreading half of the coffee cake batter in the pan, top with both the cinnamon sugar mixture and one-third of the streusel mixture. Top with the rest of the batter, smooth out with an offset spatula and finish off with the remaining streusel before putting the coffee cake in a preheated 350 degree (F) oven.

Instead of using an 8 inch cake pan, this Browned Butter Hummingbird Coffee Cake was made in a 9 inch springform pan (lined with parchment paper). In spite of changing out the size of the cake pan, there was no significant change to the baking time (45-50 minutes).


Hummingbird Cakes are traditionally topped with a cream cheese frosting. This coffee cake version is topped with a mascarpone glaze.


Allow the coffee cake to rest at least 15 minutes before pouring on the glaze.


Imagine starting your day with a warm coffee cake. But whether you serve it warm or at room temperature, this may be the best coffee cake on the planet.


Full of intense flavor, this Browned Butter Hummingbird Coffee Cake is incredibly moist. The Mascarpone Glaze adds a hint of sweetness and is a perfect finishing touch. So if you are committed to adding more fruits and nuts to your diet in the weeks, month and year ahead, I would venture to say this cake would help you keep that promise, resolution, intention. And, if by chance you need to offer a small bribe, this coffee cake may get you more than you even hoped for. Happy New Year!

Recipe
Browned Butter Hummingbird Coffee Cake with Mascarpone Glaze (slight adaptation to the Browned Butter Hummingbird Coffee Cake recipe printed in the Jan/Feb 2017 Issue of Bake from Scratch)
Serves 8-12, depending on how you slice it

Ingredients
Streusel
1/3 cup (43g) all-purpose flour
1/4 cup (50g) light brown sugar, firmly packed
1/2 teaspoon cinnamon
1/4 teaspoon kosher salt
3 1/2 (50g) Tablespoons unsalted butter, room temperature
1/2 cup pecan halves, toasted and chopped 

Cake
1/2 cup (113g) unsalted butter, room temperature
2 large eggs, room temperature
1/2 cup mashed banana (from 1 large ripe banana or 2 smaller ripe bananas)
1/2 cup crushed pineapple, drained
1 teaspoon vanilla
1 1/2 cups (195g) all-purpose flour
3/4 cup (150g) plus 1 Tablespoon granulated sugar, divided
1/4 cup (50g) light brown sugar, firmly packed
3/4 teaspoon Kosher salt
3/4 teaspoon baking powder
1 teaspoon cinnamon, divided
Optional: Pecan halves for finishing the top of the coffee cake

Glaze
1/2 cup (60g) confectionary sugar, sifted
2 Tablespoons mascarpone cheese, softened
2-3 Tablespoons whole milk

Directions
Streusel 
1. In a medium bowl, whisk together the flour, brown sugar, cinnamon, and salt.
2. Stir in butter, mixing until the mixture is crumbly. Note: Use fingertips until desired consistency is reached.
3. Stir in chopped, toasted pecans. Cover and set aside.

Glaze
1. In a small bowl, whisk together the sifted confectionary sugar, mascarpone cheese and 2 Tablespoons of the whole milk until creamy and pourable. If mixture to thick, add milk 1 teaspoon at a time.

Cake
1. Preheat oven to 350 degrees (F). Line a 9 inch springform or baking pan with parchment paper. Spray with baking spray and lightly flour. Set aside.
2. In a medium, heavy bottomed saucepan, melt butter over medium heat. Cook until butter turns a medium-brown color and has a nutty aroma. Approximately 8-10 minutes. Remove from heat and cool to room temperature.
3. In a medium bowl, whisk together the flour, 3/4 cup granulated sugar, brown sugar, salt, baking powder and 1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon. Set aside.
4. In the bowl of a standing mixer fitted with a paddle attachment, beat eggs, mashed banana, drained pineapple, and vanilla at medium speed until combined. Approximately 1-2 minutes. 
5. Stir in cooled browned butter. Scrape the browned bits into the batter.
6. Gradually add flour mixture to the batter, beating until just combined.
7. In a small bowl, mix tother the remaining 1 Tablespoon granulated sugar and remaining 1/2 teaspoon cinnamon. Set aside.
8. Spread half of the batter into the prepared cake pan.
9. Sprinkle with the cinnamon sugar and 1/3 of the streusel mixture.
10. Top with remaining cake batter. Smoothing top with an offset spatula.
11. Evenly sprinkle the remaining streusel over the cake batter.
12. Bake for 45-50 minutes or until cake tested with a toothpick comes out clean. Remove from oven and let cake rest for 15 minutes.
13. Run a sharp knife around the edges. Open latch on springform pan and/or invert cake onto a plate and invert again, placing cake on a wire rack.
14. Drizzle glaze over warm cake. Optional: Top with pecan halves.

Notes: (1) The inspiration recipe recommended a sour cream based glaze (one half cup confectionary sugar, two Tablespoons sour cream, 1 1/2 teaspoons whole milk). (2) If using an 8 inch cake pan, baking time may need to be adjusted slightly, but would recommend checking for doneness at 45 minutes. (3) Be sure to drain the crushed pineapple before adding to the batter.


Lower Dells falls at Matthiessen State Park, Ogelsby, Illinois (January 2017)

Wednesday, October 26, 2016

Corn Muffins


This past weekend was marked by the first roaring, crackling fire of the season. The temperature outside finally dipped down low enough where a fire was needed to take the chill out of the air in the house. The house I grew up had neither a wood burning nor gas fireplace. Although at Christmas we did have one of those large faux red brick corrugated cardboard fireplaces to hang our stockings from. Not quite the same experience as having a 'real' fireplace. The only time in my life I wished I had a gas instead of a wood burning fireplace was when the power went out during a three day east coast blizzard and I became a fireplace slave. At some point during the second day, of what felt like a return to the Little House on the Prairie life, I wondered if the early settlers and pioneers were sleep deprived or if they just adjusted to various states of frozenness. Because keeping a fire going morning, noon, and night was exhausting (and I didn't even have to cut the wood!). The kind of exhaustion you might temporarily feel after an hour of sculpt yoga, any long run over 13.1 miles, or a several hour high elevation hike. Fortunately I live in a house with one working wood burning fireplace (the repairs needed for the second one have yet to be done). Rather than generating warmth needed for physical survival, this fireplace now has the primary function of creating ambiance to warm and soothe the souls of everyone sitting near it.


Admit it. A corn muffin with golden brown, slightly domed tops is something we find incredibly appealing. They may, in fact, borderline on being lust worthy. Conversely, corn muffins pale in color with flat or caved in tops are ones we might wrinkle our noses at, or eat only if desperately hungry. And when we come across a domed top, golden brown muffin, rich with buttery corn flavor and perfectly moist, we know we have finally arrived in Corn Muffin heaven. After thanking the powers that be for creating such a gift, we pledge to never ever eat any other corn muffin not living up to this gold(en) standard. Even if we are starving. Thanks in large part to Cook's Illustrated, we no longer have to search far and wide for the seemingly illusive, most delectable corn muffin on the planet. We can now make them ourselves whenever we want. For breakfast, for lunch with a warm bowl of soup, for dinner with a hot bowl of chili, or just because you crave them.


In the past several weeks I made these Corn Muffins twice. The first time because I have long wanted to find a recipe for sweet, buttery, moist Corn Muffins. The second time was because I had a craving for sweet, buttery, moist Corn Muffins. These might fall into the category of rather addicting comfort food.

There ingredients in this recipe are pretty similar to those found in other corn muffin recipes. However, the technique for making them is decidedly different from most others out there.


To keep the cornmeal flavor at the forefront of these muffins while ensuring they had great texture and moistness, Cook's Illustrated discovered the secret was cooking some of the cornmeal with milk to a polenta like, porridge consistency. The result of using a combination of slightly cooked and dry cornmeal in the batter is a feast for the eyes, tender crumb, buttery rich flavor corn muffin.


The sugar, slightly cooled melted butter and sour cream help to bring down the temperature of the milk/cornmeal mixture to ensure the eggs aren't 'cooked' when added in to the batter. If your batter is a little too warm to the touch, allow it to sit for a couple of minutes before whisking in the eggs. Use a spatula or wooden spoon to stir in the dry ingredients as once everything comes together, the batter will become very thick.


When making cupcakes or some muffins, the recommendation is usually to fill the cups 2/3's full. However, the batter will be slightly mounded up over the top of the cupcake papers for these corn muffins.


They are baked for 14-17 minutes in a preheated 425 degree oven or until the tops are golden brown and spring back when lightly pressed. Or alternately insert a toothpick in the center of the muffin. If it comes out clean, the muffin is done. Before removing the muffins from the tin, allow to cool for at five minutes.

Serve these muffins warm, at room temperature, or reheated with honey and/or butter.


These Corn Muffins are moist on the inside, yet have an almost slightly caramelized, crunchy exterior surface. They are pure perfection.


Some of you might be wondering if corn muffins and cornbread are interchangeable terms for the same thing. And actually they aren't. The most significant difference between the two is no sugar and sugar. Most traditional cornbreads do not use sugar as an ingredient, while sugar plays an important role in the corn muffin.

Speaking of sugar, I made two changes made to Cook's Illustrated recipe. The first was increasing the amount of sugar in the batter from 3 Tablespoons of 1/3 of a cup. The second was sprinkling the tops with sanding sugar. When making these corn muffins, increase the amount of sugar in the batter to at least 1/4 cup (equivalent of 4 Tablespoons) but no more than 1/3 cup. The sanding sugar on the top is optional and matter of personal preference. Kind of like preferring a wood burning fireplace to a gas fireplace. One isn't necessarily better than the other, it's all about what makes you the happiest.

Recipe
Corn Muffins (slight adaptation of the Savory Corn Muffin recipe in the new Cook's Illustrated cookbook, Cook's Science: How to Unlock Flavor in 50 of our Favorite Ingredients)
Makes one dozen muffins

Ingredients
2 cups yellow (fine, medium, or a combination of fine and medium grind) cornmeal, divided
1 cup all-purpose flour
1 1/2 teaspoons baking powder
1 teaspoon baking soda
1 1/4 teaspoons kosher salt or fine sea salt
1 1/4 cups whole milk
1 cup sour cream
8 Tablespoons unsalted butter, melted and cooled
1/4 - 1/3 cup granulated sugar (See Notes)
2 large eggs, room temperature
Optional: Sanding sugar

Directions
1. Preheat oven to 425 degrees (F). Line a 12 cup muffin pan with cupcake papers or squares of parchment paper.
2. In a medium sized bowl, whisk together 1 1/2 cups cornmeal, flour, baking powder, baking soda and salt. Set aside.
3. In a heavy bottomed saucepan, combine the remaining 1/2 cup of cornmeal with the milk. Over medium-high heat, cook mixture until it has a thick batter or polenta-like porridge consistency (approximately 4-6 minutes of cooking time). Note: Stir continuously. Transfer to a large bowl.
4. Add the butter and sugar into the milk/cornmeal mixture.  
5. Add the sour cream, stirring until no streaks appear.
6. If mixture is cooled enough, whisk in eggs until combined. Note: If mixture is too hot, wait 5 minutes before adding eggs.
7. Fold in flour mixture until the batter is smooth and thick.
8. Using an ice cream scoop, divide the batter evenly amongst the prepared muffin cups. 
9. Bake until tops are golden brown and the top of the muffin bounces back when lightly pressed. Approximately 14-18 minutes. Allow to cool in pan for at least 5 minutes before removing and transferring to a wire rack to cool for an additional 5 minutes.
10. Serve warm with room temperature butter and/or honey.
11. Store muffins in a tightly sealed container or ziplock storage bag. 

Notes: (1) Cook's Illustrated recommended using 3 Tablespoons of sugar. I used 1/4 cup of sugar in the first batch of the corn muffins and 1/3 cup of sugar on the second batch. The 1/3 cup of sugar yielded the kind of sweetness I love in a corn muffin. (2) Do not use white cornmeal or coarse grain cornmeal. I used Bob's Red Mill Yellow medium-grind cornmeal. (3) My baking time was almost 16 minutes. (4) I sprinkled mine with sanding sugar for an added bit of crunch and sweetness, but if you are serving them with a savory dish (e.g., soup or chili) omit the sanding sugar.


Cows grazing on a misty morning along the Sakonnet River in Little Compton, Rhode Island.