Showing posts with label Cookies. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Cookies. Show all posts

Friday, December 18, 2015

Chocolate Crinkle Cookies


This week, time has gotten completely away from me. As the holidays get closer, I am absolutely convinced time is more of an illusionary concept than the absolute one described in Isaac Newton's first law of space and time. Somewhere in the recesses of my high school physics memory lie the concepts associated with Einstein's theory of relativity. But rather than getting myself tripped up explaining the technical aspects of this theory (high school was a lifetime ago) just know it asserts time happens differently depending on who we are and what we are experiencing at any given moment (e.g., time moves more quickly as we age). In years past, all of the shopping got done, presents got wrapped, packages were sent, baking kind of-sort of was finished, and the holiday meal was made and served. However, at the moment I am seriously beginning to wonder if everything on my long list will get checked off in the whirlwind week ahead. I just need time to slow down. If only that was possible.


It wasn't in my plan this week to make a 'new' cookie, let alone try to attempt to as artfully as possible capture the beginning to end baking process (just in case a rich brownie like cookie made with three kinds of chocolate, rolled in two different sugars, and finished with a sprinkling of sea salt isn't enticing enough for you). This may partially explain why I can't seem to get anything done around here. Some distractions are harder to resist than others. And these Chocolate Crinkle Cookies are the kind of distractions we should all recklessly abandon our will power and control over our time for.


Of course, the making of any new cookie means comparing multiple, similar recipes all claiming to be the BEST ever, the prettiest, the most chocolatey, and the most scrumptious. After investing even more time into the making of a new cookie (there is no such thing as doing things simply), I narrowed my options down to two. One shared by "Baked' fame cookbook authors and pastry chefs Matt Lewis and Renato Poliafito and one by Cook's Illustrated. As luck would have it, there would be some fundamental differences in the ingredients and the baking process between two recipes for a Chocolate Crinkle-like Cookie. There seemed to be some room to merge various aspects of the two of them and possibly make a nuanced contribution of my own.


The idea of using only dark brown sugar to give the cookie a 'more complex, tempered sweetness with a bitter molasses edge' to compliment the chocolate appealed to me. So instead of going with a granulated sugar/brown sugar combination in the cookie dough, I decided to go with Cook's Illustrated dark brown sugar only recommendation. The amount of espresso powder used ranged significantly between the two recipes (1 teaspoon to 4 teaspoons). I could have split the difference between the two amounts, but 1 1/2 teaspoons just made the most sense and would be enough to deepen the chocolate flavor. Both recipes used unsweetened cocoa, but one used a dark semi-sweet (60-72% cocoa) and the other used unsweetened chocolate. With several bars of Scharffen Berger 62% semi-sweet chocolate siting in the cupboard, the decision seemed to be predetermined. There were a few more ingredient differences I needed to reconcile before deciding on the assembling and baking process. Once the number of eggs to be used, how much baking powder and kosher salt to use, and whether or not to use baking soda decisions were made I was (almost) ready to start baking.


After first melting the coarsely chopped semi-sweet chocolate and butter and before combining with the espresso powder, the mixture is removed from its' heat source, mixed until the chocolate is smooth, and allowed to cool. Measuring out the remaining ingredients and getting your standing mixer ready is more than enough chocolate cooling time. Once the eggs and dark brown sugar are thoroughly mixed and the vanilla is blended in, the slightly cooled chocolate mixture is added. The sifted dry ingredients are added all at once. Adding a half cup of miniature chocolate chips to the batter was a last minute decision. While these are a somewhat optional ingredient, I will add them with rather than after the sifted flour ingredients are added to the batter as this is a very thick dough (one you don't want to dry out with over mixing). Cook's Illustrated recommended the batter simply rest for 10 minutes, whereas the Lewis/Poliafito recipe called for chilling the dough for at least 2 but up to 24 hours. The density of dough didn't seemed to call for a 2 hour chill time. Thirty (30) minutes seemed long enough as the dough had completely set up and was still able to scooped without difficulty.


Not only did I want a cookie that tasted insanely delicious, I wanted one that if put in a Miss Cookie Universe pageant it would have the best chance of being crowned the winner. Rolling the cookies first granulated sugar and then in confectionary sugar gave these Chocolate Crinkle Cookies an almost perfect crackly finish (thank you Cook's Illustrated for this recommendation).


If there is one thing you should hope to find under the tree this year, consider asking for a set of some really good ice cream scoops (if you don't have them) as they are almost one of those must-have kitchen tools. Especially if you want your cookies uniform and don't want a pan of cookies in various stages of baked doneness.

Dough balls that are 1 to 1 1/4 inch in diameter will yield anywhere between 22 and 24 cookies. Because the cookies spread, no more than 11 or 12 cookies (spaced apart by at least 1 inch) should be put on the baking pan before going into a preheated 325 degree (F) oven.


Baking time for cookies ranges from to 12 minutes (my baking time was 12 minutes). The baking pan is rotated midway through the baking process. Testing 'dark' cookies for doneness is always a bit of a challenge. To test for this cookie's doneness, you are looking for their edges to start firming up but will still have a slightly soft center.  Because the cookies remain on the baking pan for 5 minutes after being removed from the oven, the cookie will continue to 'bake', so it is important to not over bake them.


After the Chocolate Crinkle Cookies rest on the baking sheet for 5 minutes, they are transferred to a cooling rack. Allow them to cool to room temperature before plating or putting into a container. If not eaten shortly after they are cooled, store the cookies in a tightly sealed container (they will be at their best for up to 2 days after baking). Adding a light sprinkling of sea salt is another optional recommendation. Although once you taste them with and without salt, I am pretty certain you won't see the sea salt as optional. Just be sure to sprinkle on the sea salt when you remove the baked cookies from the oven.


If you have room in your holiday baking schedule to add another cookie, add this one. If you don't have time, figure out a way to make some (sleep is over-rated). These Chocolate Crinkle Cookies are decadent, addictive, and immensely satisfying. They are also Miss Cookie Universe winning worthy as they are beautiful both the inside and out. They have also just become my new favorite cookie.


'The glory of friendship is not the outstretched hand, not the kindly smile, nor the joy of companionship; it is the spiritual inspiration that comes to one when you discover that someone else believes in you and is willing to trust you with a friendship." Ralph Waldo Emerson Of the thousands of quotes on friendship, there are some that truly speak to the significance of those relationships grounded in the enduring mutual love and respect shared between two people. This quote by Emerson is one of them. These are the words you want to share with someone you value and hope will always remain as a close friend. They are not meant to put distance or limits on a friendship, but rather serve to validate how deeply a friendship has touched not only one's heart, but one's soul. Whether you are the giver or receiver of words having such a profoundly beautiful sentiment to them, they are neither time nor situation bound. So as you think about what gifts to give to your most treasured friends this year, think about gifting them with Emerson's words as the holidays seem to lend themselves to bringing the purest of joys to those whose unselfish gift of friendship has shaped you in innumerable ways. These seemingly simple words could make this the most glorious Christmas for both of you.

Recipe
Chocolate Crinkle Cookies (inspired by the recipe for Exceedingly Chocolaty Cookies shared by Matt Lewis and Renato Poliafito)
Makes 22-24 cookies

Ingredients
1 1/4 cups (163g) all-purpose flour
2 Tablespoons (18g) unsweetened cocoa powder
7/8 teaspoon baking powder
1/4 teaspoon baking soda
1/2 teaspoon kosher salt
6 ounces (170g) dark chocolate (60-72% cacao), coarsely chopped (recommend Scharffen Berger Semi-Sweet 62% Chocolate, however use any semi-sweet or dark chocolate containing 60-72% cocao)
4 Tablespoons (57g) unsalted butter, slightly softened, cut into chunks
2 large eggs, room temperature
1 1/2 teaspoons instant espresso powder (recommend King Arthur's Espresso Powder, but most instant expresso powders should work)
3/4 cup (150g) dark brown sugar, firmly packed
2 teaspoons vanilla
1/2 cup miniature chocolate chips (optional but good)

1/2 cup confectionary sugar
1/2 cup granulated sugar
Optional: Sea salt for finishing

Directions
1. Preheat oven to 325 degrees (F). Line two baking sheets with parchment paper and set aside.
2. In a medium sized bowl, sift together flour, cocoa powder, baking powder, baking soda, and salt. Set aside. 
3. Melt butter and coarsely chopped chocolate in a heatproof bowl set over a pan of simmering water. Stir occasionally until almost completely melted and combined. Stir in espresso powder. Remove from heat and continue stirring until chocolate has completely melted. Allow to cool.
4. In the bowl of a standing mixer fitted with a paddle attachment, beat eggs and dark brown sugar together on medium speed until smooth (approximately 3-4 minutes).
5. Add vanilla and beat again until incorporated.
6. Scrape chocolate mixture into the bowl and beat until combined. Scrape down sides and bottom of the bowl.
7. Add flour mixture. Beat on low speed until flour is just incorporated but some streaks remain. Add miniature chocolate chips and finish mixing until flour is incorporated (do not overmix). Note: The miniature chocolate chips are optional, however, because this is a very thick batter, add them in with the sifted flour mixture if using.
8. Cover bowl and place in the refrigerator for 30 minutes.
9. Put granulated sugar and confectionary sugar into two separate bowl.
10. Using an ice cream scoop, form the dough into balls approximately 1 - 1 1/4 inch in diameter. 
11. Roll dough balls first in granulated sugar, then in confectionary sugar. Place on prepared baking sheet (11-12 cookies per sheet).
12. Bake, rotating baking sheets halfway through the baking time, until cookies begin to firm up along the edges (approximately 9-12 minutes). Note: Cookies will still be slightly soft in the center, giving them a moist brownie-like texture).
13. After removing cookies from the oven, lightly sprinkle with sea salt.
14. Allow cookies to rest on baking sheet for 5 minutes before transferring to a cooling rack. Allow to cool to room temperature.
15. Store cookies in a tightly sealed container. Note: Cookies are at the best if eaten within 2 days of baking.


Some of the ornaments hung on one of the Christmas trees this year.

Monday, November 30, 2015

Brown Butter Sea Salted Cookies


As much as I would have loved to host the Thanksgiving family dinner this year, I have always longed to be able to run the Turkey Trot in the town where I live. Not that running a 5k was going to mitigate all of the holiday meal calories consumed (more than likely it would take an Ironman Triathlon for that), but a fresh air, running for a good cause start to the day felt good. Really, really good. Not even having to navigate around all of the strollers, walkers, dogs on leashes, groups walking 5 across, or the threat of an overcast, waiting to rain sky could spoil this Thanksgiving first. Already I am thinking ahead to next year, trying to figure out how to manage the possibility of hosting my favorite holiday meal and running this race. Because of course, I don't want to have to choose between the two.

And for the first time in years or I should say decades, I didn't succumb to the lure of all of those Black Friday sales or the endless number of emails offering all of those savings over the Thanksgiving weekend. That too felt good, surprisingly good actually. Over the years, but even more so recently, I have come to realize there is something to be said for savoring all of the sentiments of Thanksgiving for as long as possible. At least for a couple of days more.


Earlier this fall one of my best friends texted to tell me she had just tasted the ultimate, absolute best, most incredible cookie ever. The discovery of 'the' cookies sold by the Brown Butter Cookie Company occurred while she was on vacation in California. While she was savoring every bite of these cookies, I was left wondering 'so what does such a cookie taste like?' Not that I doubted her (okay maybe I did just a teeny tiny bit), but this was a rather significant claim. Fast forward to this past week when an unexpected, most generous gift of these cookies arrived. It took me all of ten seconds to tear open the box and taste one of these cookies. In a single bite, I learned what the ultimate, absolute best, most incredible ever cookie tasted like. After devouring one of the brown butter sea salted shortbread cookies, I thought 'okay now I need to find the recipe for cookies thousands are willing to drive hours to buy and many more thousands are willing to pay $1.00 per cookie for'. So I embarked on the search for this buttery, sweet, salty shortbread cookie. The looming holiday cookie season was an added incentive.


What I found on this search were a myriad of recipes all claiming to taste just like the ones sold at the Brown Butter Cookie Company. Ha! Like most shortbread cookie recipes the most significant difference amongst them is in the flour to butter ratio. These copycat recipes were no different. To make this slightly more challenging, this cookie had a tenderness to it I didn't think could be achieved by simply using only the recommended all-purpose flour. So I had a few decisions to make before attempting to replicate them. Or rather to get as close to them as possible.


For some unscientific, unable to explain from a culinary perspective reason, 6 ounces of unsalted butter and 12 ounces of flour made sense to me. Less butter or more flour just didn't seem right. But the browning of the unsalted butter would be key to the success of this cookie. Too light and the browning flavor would get lost, too dark and it would overpower the sweetness of the cookie. After listening to the which flour to use debate going on in my head, I decided to use a whole wheat pastry flour. If it didn't work, I would have wasted a stick and half of unsalted butter, 1/2 cup of light brown sugar, a teaspoon and a half of vanilla, some sea salt, some fine red Hawaiian sea salt, and 1 1/2 cups of the whole wheat pastry flour. Hardly the end of the world in terms of ingredient cost. Culinary ego and self-esteem were a completely different matter. Okay, yes I know, this is only a cookie.


This is a two bowl cookie recipe. The flour (the whole wheat pastry flour), the sea salt, and the baking soda are mixed together in one bowl. The browned butter, light brown sugar, and vanilla are mixed in another. And then the still warm browned butter mixture is stirred into the flour mixture just until combined. At this point you want the cookie to rest for anywhere from 15 to 30 minutes (I waited 20 minutes but a 30 minute wait would not be too long) to enable the flour to fully absorb into the butter as well as to allow the dough to cool slightly. As a side note, whole wheat pastry flour is not as fine as all-purpose flour, thus it is slower to absorb the liquid (the browned butter/brown sugar mixture) due primarily to the fiber it contains.


There are two benefits to using an ice cream scoop to form the cookies. In addition to creating uniformed sized cookies, it prevents the dough from being overworked and toughened. After removing the dough from the ice cream scoop, it is quickly rolled into a ball, placed on the baking sheet, and pressed down ever so slightly before being dusted with a very light sprinkling of fine Hawaiian red sea salt. Hint: A little of this salt goes a long way.


On a silpat or parchment paper lined baking sheet, the cookies are baked fro 13-15 minutes in a preheated 325 degree (F) oven (my baking time was 15 minutes). After transferring the baked cookies to a cooling rack, allow to completely cool before eating and/or packaging. Remember wait time is all relative. 

The cookie baking stars were aligned on the day I made these Brown Butter Sea Salted Cookies. These were definitely the dense, buttery, salty, melt in your mouth balls of deliciousness I hoped they would be. If the brown butter sea salted cookies from the Brown Butter Cookie Company can sell for $1.00 a cookie, these would be worthy of a 95 cents each price tag. Seriously.


These Brown Butter Sea Salted Cookies will definitely be making an appearance on all of my Christmas cookie platters. However, don't think of them as just another holiday cookie. No, these are kind of cookie you will want to bake year round. Once you taste them you will understand why they shouldn't be relegated to a single month a year. When the cookie connoisseurs in your circle of family and friends first see this rather simple, unassuming cookie, they may look at you and wonder what all of the fuss is about. But trust me, one bite and they will find them hard to resist. This is one incredibly delectable, decadent shortbread cookie. If you haven't noticed, browned butter is one of my favorite things. Fine red Hawaiian sea salt is now added to that list.

Recipe
Brown Butter Sea Salted Cookies (inspired by a recipe shared by Jason Hill)
Makes 15 cookies

Ingredients
12 Tablespoons (6 ounces) unsalted butter
1/2 cup light brown sugar, firmly packed 
1 1/2 teaspoons vanilla
1 1/2 cups whole wheat pastry flour (recommend Bob's Red Mill Whole Wheat Pastry Flour)
1 teaspoon baking soda
1/8 teaspoon sea salt
Hawaiian red sea salt, finely ground

Directions
1. Preheat oven to 325 degrees (F). Line a 12"x18" baking pan with silpat or parchment paper.
2. In a small saucepan, melt butter over low-medium heat. Continue cooking, stirring frequently until the melted butter is a deep golden color (approximately 8-10 minutes).  Remove from stove and pour into small-medium sized bowl.
3. Add light brown sugar and vanilla, stirring until brown sugar dissolves and is fully incorporated into the browned butter. Set aside.
4. In a medium sized bowl, whisk together flour, baking soda, and sea salt.
5. Pour butter/brown sugar mixture into the dry ingredients. Fold until combined, being careful not to overmix. 
6. Allow the dough to cool slightly and rest for 15-30 minutes before shaping into balls.
7. Using an ice cream scoop first and then your hands to make one inch bowls. Place on prepared baking sheet. Press down on each cookie ever so slightly. Very lightly sprinkle with red Hawaiian sea salt.
8. Bake for 13-15 minutes. Be careful not to over bake.
8. Transfer cookies to cooling rack. Allow to cool completely before eating or packaging.

Thursday, August 27, 2015

Salted Chocolate-Rye Cookies


After spending a long, whirlwind, weather perfect weekend exploring parts of Philadelphia and Annapolis, I haven't been able to get all of the 'experienced for the first time' images out of my head. From the historic sites in the Old City section of Philadelphia, to the vibrancy of the Reading Terminal Market, to the architecture of the buildings and homes on the narrow streets in Annapolis, to the breathtaking views on the Chesapeake Bay, my heart is still racing from the sheer beauty of the places with two very distinct personalities, yet ones retaining their Colonial days aura. On the food front, the cheesesteaks, tomato pie, and soft baked pretzels in Philly were delicious, however, the crab cakes made with fresh lump Maryland crab caused me to fall even more deeply, madly in love with Annapolis. Already I am wondering when I might be able to make a return trip there. 


After several days of absolutely gorgeous, sunny, low humidity, white cloud sky days out east, I returned back to the midwest to what felt like early October chilly weather. For a millisecond I thought 'how long was I gone for?' As much as I would selfishly like for summer to hang around for a little while longer, I must confess I can barely contain my enthusiasm for the arrival of my most favorite season. From the cooler temperature weather, to the changes in the colors of the landscape, to the return of my favorite holidays, to perfect sleeping weather, and to when just turning on the oven to bake is enough to take the chill out of the house, autumn is one of those seasons I wish could go on endlessly. While winter can sometimes be a bit of grinch and encroach on the final days of fall, it is a welcome blessing when summer graciously allows fall to begin a little early. 


I managed to read an entire book ("The Martian") during my weekend getaway (making my flights with stops being a little more palatable), flip through a few food magazines picked up in the airport on the flight out, and keep up with the myriad of food related emails populating my inbox. The book was exceptional, a must read in spite causing me to weep in public. The magazines were filled with ideas and inspiration. However, reading about one of Tartine's cookie recipes in an email made me incredibly grateful I had returned home to perfect baking weather temperatures. Before even unpacking my luggage, I went through my cabinets to make sure I had all of the ingredients for their Salted Chocolate-Rye Cookies. Discovering a quick morning trip to the grocery store to pick up some muscovado sugar was necessary, taking the the eggs and butter out of the refrigerator before ultimately heading to bed guaranteed I would be committed to making these cookies. 


Muscovado sugar is an unrefined dark brown cane sugar having a strong molasses flavor and slightly coarser than most brown sugars. With a texture similar to a wet, moist, sticky sand and having hints of fruit and toffee, muscovado has a more complex flavor profile than granulated sugar or light/dark brown sugars. But if it isn't something easily accessible in your grocery store, dark brown sugar can be substituted. However, if you can find organic dark brown sugar (versus the boxed or bagged 'normal' dark brown sugar) buy it as that would be a great substitute. Not exactly the same as muscovado, organic brown sugar is the next best thing. And it is what I used for these cookies (Trader Joe's has a great organic brown sugar).


I have recently become a big fan of the use of rye flour in pie crusts and other baked confections.  It so happens these cookies call for the use of an organic dark rye whole grain flour (Bob's Red Mill makes a great dark rye flour). Unfortunately there is no substitute for this flour. Once you start using it, more than likely it will become one of your flour staples. I promise.


There is a full pound of dark chocolate with 70-72% cocoa in these cookies. And in my world there is no such thing as too much chocolate. However, there are only four tablespoons of butter in these cookies. So on balance it's all good.


Tartine recommends melting the chocolate and butter using the double-boiler method. I used the microwave method. Use whichever method you have had the most success with. 

I am not the first one to share Tartine's Salted Chocolate-Rye Cookies on a food blog. But sometimes being late to the party is a good thing. Several foodbloggers shared the cookies flattened slightly after cooling (and some photos showed a pretty flat cookie). I wanted to make these cookies but I didn't want them to be flat. So I wondered if making a change to the chilling process (sort of but not exactly like the one used in Tara's Chocolate Chip Cookies) would ensure my cookies remain slightly puffy once they cooled to room temperature. If a picture tells a thousand words (or even just a few), these may have answered my question.


This is a very soft dough cookie when initially mixed. It is one that must be chilled for 30-45 minutes before it is scooped out into tablespoon sized balls (an ice cream scoop makes this easier). But the first chilling isn't enough to make it feasible to roll them into balls. Covering the cookie sheet filled with dough 'rough' balls with plastic wrap, they go back in the refrigerator for a second chilling. I waited three hours (because I had some errands to), however, I think a chilling time of at least an hour would work. Making perfect round 'balls' is easier if you allow them to sit out for about 15 minutes before rolling out the 'rough' dough balls.

Topped with flaky (Maldon) sea salt, the cookies are baked in a preheated 350 degree (F) oven for 8-11 minutes. My baking time was closer to 11 minutes, which was probably due to my slightly larger than one tablespoon sized balls of cookie dough.


Biting into this cookie is better than biting into your favorite fudgy brownie. The very slight exterir crunch gives way to an inside having an amazing creamy like, rich chocolately texture. These are definitely decadent, addictive cookies. Even if you think you do not need one more cookie in your cookie making rotation, especially one requiring dark rye flour and/or a dark brown organic sugar (things you might not normally buy) or made with a pound of chocolate, think again. And if you are thinking of waiting to make these cookies until the holidays, think again. 


I brought these cookies to my running group and several of them called me the 'devil'. While in another context I may have frowned at hearing that comparison, it was the best thing anyone said to me all day.

After making and tasting these cookies I ended up buying Tartine's third cookbook, one published two years ago. Again, a little late to the party. If my subtle attempts at encouraging you to visit Annapolis or read the book 'The Martian" are unsuccessful, I really, really hope you make these Salted Chocolate-Rye Cookies. And sooner rather than later. "Beware of missed chances; otherwise it may altogether too late some day."

Recipe
Salted Chocolate-Rye Cookies (ever so slight adaptation to the recipe in Tartine Book No. 3: Modern Ancient Classic Whole)

Ingredients
1 pound bittersweet chocolate (70-72% cocoa), chopped (I used Trader Joe's Belgium Dark Chocolate with 72% cocoa)
4 Tablespoons unsalted butter
3/4 cup whole-grain dark rye flour (recommend Bob's Red Mill)
1 teaspoon baking powder
1/2 teaspoon fine sea salt
4 large eggs, room temperature
1 1/2 cups organic brown sugar, muscovado sugar, or dark brown sugar, packed (I used Trader Joe's Organic Brown sugar)
1 Tablespoon vanilla
Flaky Sea Salt (recommend Maldon)

Directions
1. In a medium sized bowl, add in chopped chocolate and butter. Melt over medium heat in a saucepan filled with one inch of water brought to a simmer (be careful that bottom of the bowl is not touching the water). Stir occasionally until chocolate and butter are melted. Remove from the heat and allow the mixture to cool slightly. Alternately, melt chocolate in the microwave. 
2. In a small bowl, whisk together the rye flour, baking powder and fine sea salt.
3. Place the eggs in the bowl of a standing mixer fitted with a whisk attachment. Whip on medium-high, adding the sugar a few tablespoons at a time, until all the sugar is incorporated.  Turn mixer to high and whip until eggs have tripled in volume and turned very light yellow and fluffy (approximately 6 minutes).
4. Reduce the speed on the mixer to low and add melted chocolate, followed by the the vanilla. Mix to combine, scraping down the sides of the bowl as needed.
5. Add in flour mixture and stir until just combined. Note: The dough will be very soft.
6. Refrigerate dough until it is firm to the touch (approximately 30-45 minutes). Note: If cooled too long, the dough will be hard to scoop.
7. Remove chilled dough from the refrigerator. Using a tablespoon sized ice cream scoop, form rounded balls and place on a cookie sheet lined with parchment paper. Cover the dough balls with plastic wrap and return to the refrigerator for 60-180 minutes.
8. Preheat oven to 350 degrees (F).
9. Remove the cookie dough from the refrigerator and roll each dough ball until round and smooth. Place on a prepared baking sheet, spacing cookies 2 inches apart. Top each mound of dough with a few flakes of sea salt, pressing gently so it adheres. Note: Allowing the chilled dough balls to sit for 10 minutes makes rolling easier.
10. Bake 8-11 minutes or until the cookies have puffed up, have a smooth bottom and a rounded top with a few small cracks. Remove baking sheets from the oven and allow to sit for 2 minutes before transferring to a wire rack. Allow to cool completely. Serve immediately.
Note: Cookies will keep up to 3 days in an airtight container.


Images taken while walking in Central City Philadelphia and the Reading Terminal Market.


Thursday, August 13, 2015

Hazelnut English Chocolate Crisps


"Fantasy is a necessary ingredient in living, it's a way of looking at life through the wrong end of the telescope." (Dr. Seuss) In the childhood of my dreams I would come home from a long day of and even longer walk from school to find a June Cleaver clone standing with a plate of freshly made cookies. Warm out of the oven would be nice, but this fantasy isn't that fussy. It doesn't matter what kind of cookies they were, although they absolutely needed to contain some chocolate. Milk, dark, or white chocolate, it doesn't matter. However, as my cookie preferences have shifted over the years, there have been some revisions to this childhood school day fantasy. In its' current iteration Ina Garten has taken on the role of June Cleaver and the cookies...well they are still homemade with chocolate in them, but now they also contain some kind of nut. Walnuts, pecans, pistachios, almonds, macadamia nuts, hazelnuts, it really doesn't matter. Because one of the nice things about indulging yourself in a fantasy, without risking being perceived as someone who has completely lost touch with reality or worse yet, confuses reality with the fantasy, is being able to make changes to it as your life experiences change.


Whenever I see a recipe for a 'no-bake' cookie or bar (Rice Krispie Treats exempted), I am a little hesitant to try it. From some reason when I see 'no bake' I hear 'instant', as in 'instant pudding', 'instant potatoes' and all of those other 'instant' foods that really don't compare to their 'real' counterparts (with a few exceptions). For months now I have been fighting the urge to make a 'no-bake' cookie recipe published in Food and Wine sometime last year. But then I saw Ina Garten make a similar version of this cookie from her Make it Ahead cookbook and well, if it was good enough for Ina to make, how could it not be good? No let me take that back. How could it not be great? As an Ina seal of approval in 2015 might possibly be a more highly coveted endorsement than the Good Housekeeping seal of approval created more than a century ago.


After comparing the two recipes, I thought I would try my hand at creating a hybrid of the two while adding my own spin to it by combining my love of both chocolate and nuts into a single cookie. 


If making a 'no bake' cookie wasn't enough of a significant departure from my cookie baking preferences, then making one using corn flakes would make anyone question whether or not I had truly lost my mind. 'Breathe', I kept telling myself, 'If making cookies using cornflakes is good enough for Ina, it is good enough for you can too'. 

There are two kinds of nuts in this cookie: hazelnuts and pistachios. Roasting the hazelnuts further deepens the chocolate nuttiness taste to them as well as aids in removing their bitter tasting skins. There are also two kinds of chocolate: milk and dark. Use good quality chocolate, the kind you would use for candy-making, the kind that after melted it hardens to a beautiful sheen (in other words, the chocolate chips you use for baking don't necessarily lend themselves to having this cookie set up and look beautiful).


The cornflakes, dried fruits, salt and chopped nuts are mixed together in a large bowl. The melted chocolate is poured over the mixture and gently folded until everything is coated in chocolate. 

For more bite-sized Hazelnut English Chocolate Crisps use either a tablespoon or an small ice cream scoop and place on a parchment paper lined baking sheet. For larger crisps use two tablespoons and mound them onto the baking sheet.


Allow the crisps to come to room temperature and completely cool until you can easily remove them from the parchment paper before serving.


Waiting for them to harden may be the hardest part of this recipe.


Just like the size you make these crisps does not matter, the dried fruits you use does not matter as well (although I don't think dried apricots would be a good choice). Whether you choose to use a combination of golden raisins, cranberries, dried blueberries, and currants or simply choose one of them (hint: go with cranberries as a first option), these crisps are bound to be delicious. They are crunchy, salty, chocolately, nutty, and a little bit sweet. In other words, they are a cookie having the ability to satisfy almost every possible cookie fantasy. Honestly, as active as imagination operating in my head on  a regular basis, I wasn't even close to predicting how good, um, I mean great, these would be. Nor did I think they would be slightly addictive. And depending on your opinion of a cookie with the ability to become an obsession, this could be the only their only flaw.

The start of the new school year is just around the corner. For those of you with children, these Hazelnut English Chocolate Crisps might turn you into the parent of their fantasies (that is, if you are not that already). But don't let me mislead you into thinking these cookies are for children only. Make them for your partner and well, who knows what fantasies you will fill for them. Or better yet, what fantasy they will turn into a reality for you.

Recipe
Hazelnut English Chocolate Crisps (inspiration from Ina Garten's English Chocolate Crisps from the Make it Ahead Cookbook and Nicolas Berger's Milk Chocolate, Nut and Raisin Clusters shared in Food and Wine, February 2014)

Ingredients
2 3/4 cups corn flakes (recommend Kellogg's)
1/2 cup hazelnuts, toasted and chopped
1/4 cup pistachios, chopped
1/2 cup mixed dried fruit (raisins, cranberries, blueberries) or golden raisins or dried cranberries
1/4 cup currants (optional, but they add good flavor)
1/2 teaspoon kosher salt
7 3/4 ounces milk chocolate
5 3/4 ounces dark chocolate

Directions
1. Preheat oven to 375 degrees (F). Place hazelnuts on a small pan and place in oven for 7-8 minutes. Allow to cool. Rub hazelnuts in a kitchen towel to remove skins. Coarsely chop.
2. In a large bowl combine cornflakes, chopped hazelnuts, pistachios, dried fruit, currants, and kosher salt. Set aside.
3. Melt chocolate in either the microwave or over a double boiler. Note: If using microwave method, combine 3/4 of the chocolate and microwave at medium-high power in 30 second bursts, stirring in between, until melted (approximately 2-3 minutes). Stir in remaining chocolate until smooth.
4. Pour melted chocolate over the hazelnut/cornflake mixture. Using a spatula, gently fold until chocolate evenly coats cornflakes, dried fruit and nuts.
5. On a parchment paper lined baking sheet, scoop heaping tablespoons of the mixture.
6. Allow the crisps to cool completely. Peel firmed up crisps from the parchment paper and serve. Store crisps in a sealed container at room temperature.
Notes: (1) If you want them to be nut free, increase the amount of cornflakes to 3 cups. (2) You can replaced the combination of dried fruits, with a single dried fruit option. Dried cranberries and/or golden raisins would be two great options.