Cheesecake with Berries

Every now and then my friends ask if I have ever made anything that didn't turn out. The honest and simple answer is yes. Usually this happens when I am not paying careful attention to a recipe, when I mis-judge doneness, when I don't trust my instincts, or when multi-tasking leads to a disaster. Like the time several years ago when the ceramic pie plate filled with a partially baked cheesecake shattered on the burner of an electric stove in the east coast farmhouse. After the pie plate split in half, the cheesecake filling began oozing and spilling out everywhere. More upsetting than having to throw away a much anticipated dessert was realizing it would take hours to clean up the hot mess. And the cause of this particular kitchen catastrophe? I had inadvertently left the electric burner on, thus causing an extremely hot ceramic pie plate to burst after being set on an extremely hot burner. After that fiasco, two things happened. First, I vowed never to make this or any cheesecake in a glass or ceramic pie dish again as I didn't want history to ever repeat itself. Cheesecakes would only be made in tart pans with removable bottoms or springform pans. And second, I stopped making the cheesecake causing me so much the angst. This self-imposed, slightly over-reactionary, short-sighted cheesecake hiatus finally came to end (hallelujah) over the Labor Day weekend. All I will say is it's never a good idea to deprive yourself of cheesecake bliss or any other kind of bliss for any extended period of time or for any reason. Life is too short.

I had almost forgotten how incredibly creamy this cheesecake was. 

As it turned out, the lengthy cheesecake intermission wasn't completely for naught. I decided to make changes to the graham cracker crust, the baking time and temperature, and the finishing touch. In other words, I took what had been a really, really good cheesecake to a completely new level of mouthwatering lusciousness. 

So what makes this cheesecake different, dare I say better, than most others? Well, for one thing there are no egg yolks in the cheesecake batter, only egg whites whipped until soft, but stable peaks form.

Changing from a 9" pie plate, to a 10 inch springform pan created a significantly better crust to filling ratio. Additionally, the consistency of the cheesecake's texture was more even than the cheesecake I remember from years back.

Back when I made this cheesecake, the graham cracker crust was (1) a mixture of crushed graham crackers, sugar and butter and (2) not pre-baked. My favorite go-to graham cracker crust is now (1) made with crushed graham crackers, sugar, butter, kosher salt, vanilla, and cinnamon and (2) pre-baked for 10 minutes in a 325 degree (F) oven. Pre-baking the crust has multiple benefits. Not only does it give the crust added color and a deeper flavor, but pre-baking helps to stabilize the crust. Preventing the crust from falling apart or crumbling when cut and/or when slices are removed from the pan. Note: Allow crust to cool 10-15 minutes before adding cheesecake batter.

Beating the room temperature cream cheese and sugar until light and fluffy (approximately 4-6 minutes) is a key step in the making of this cheesecake for two reasons. It contributes to the cheesecake's creamy texture and makes it easier to whisk in the whipped to soft, stable peaks egg whites. If the cream cheese/sugar mixture is too stiff, the egg whites will break down, even when carefully whisked in to the batter. Note: I generally add the vanilla after beating the cream cheese/sugar. 

Pour the batter into the slightly cooled graham cracker crust and bake for 25-30 minutes in a 325 degree (F) oven (the batter will puff up slightly, yet retain a jello-like wobbliness feel to it). Note: Remove the cheesecake from the oven for five minutes before adding the sour cream topping and returning to the oven for additional baking time.

For the sour cream topping whisk together two cups of sour cream, two tablespoons of caster (or granulated) sugar, and a teaspoon a vanilla until well blended. Drop the sour cream mixture in dollops over the cheesecake and smooth with an off-set spatula being careful not to poke through the cheesecake layer. After topping with the sour cream mixture, return the cheesecake back to the 325 degree (F) oven for 10-12 minutes of additional baking time. Continuing to bake the cheesecake at the lower 325 degree (F) temperature (versus a much higher temperature), helps to ensure the top layer does not crack. But yes, if you are looking closely at some of the photos of finished cheesecake you might see a small crack. This happened while I removed the cheesecake from the pan and transferred to the cake stand.

Allow the baked cheesecake to cool to room temperature before covering with plastic wrap and chilling in the refrigerator. For best results, allow the cheesecake to chill overnight in the refrigerator (or no less than 6 hours).

The original family recipe did not call for topping the cheesecake with anything. No fresh fruit, no fruit compote. Nothing. But I absolutely love the addition of the fruit. Use your favorite berry or a combination of your favorite berries. Scatter them randomly over the top of the cheesecake or around the edge of the cheesecake. Be your best creative self. Add the fruit right no longer than an hour before you are ready to serve it, particularly if you are using any cut fruit.

This is not your heavy, dense cheesecake. It is an incredibly light, creamy one. So light you may be tempted to have a second piece in the same sitting. 

This Cheesecake with Berries made its return debut at the family dinner over the Labor Day weekend. For a myriad of reasons, I had never served it to them before. There weren't any crumbs left on their plates. And words like 'best ever' could be heard around the table.

Even with all the changes made, this cheesecake still bears some resemblance to the original family recipe. I may be a bit biased, but I believe this version is even better than the original. Thank goodness it is now back in my life. 

I know, I have been on a dessert blog posting roll for awhile now. Not necessarily a bad thing, but we all need a little balance in our meals. I promise the next couple of posts will fall into the savory category. This Cheesecake with Berries wasn't the only 'new' thing I served at the family Labor Day dinner. A Grilled Flank Steak with Rosemary with a Chimichurri Sauce along with a throw down worthy Potato Salad, not yet blog posted recipes, were also on the menu. Given how hectic the holiday weekend was, I am keeping my fingers crossed I captured enough photos of both of them. I like keeping my promises.

Recipe
Cheesecake with Berries (several changes made to an old family recipe)
Serves 8-10, depending on how you slice it

Ingredients
Crust
2 cups (220 g) graham cracker crumbs, preferably made by crushing graham crackers
1/4 cup (50g) granulated sugar
6 Tablespoons unsalted butter, melted
Pinch of kosher salt
1/2 teaspoon vanilla
1/4 teaspoon ground cinnamon (optional, but recommended)

Cheesecake
24 ounces cream cheese, room temperature 
1 cup granulated sugar (200 grams)
1 teaspoon vanilla
4 large egg whites
1/4 teaspoon cream of tartar
16 ounces sour cream
2 Tablespoons caster, superfine, or granulated sugar
1 teaspoon vanilla
2-3 cups assorted fruit (e.g., blueberries, raspberries, blackberries, strawberries, currants)

Directions
Crust
1. Preheat oven to 325 degrees (F).
2. In a medium sized bowl, combine the crumbs, sugar, melted butter, salt, vanilla, and cinnamon until well blended. 
3. Press firmly into the bottom and up the sides (about 1/2") of a 10"springform pan.
4. Bake for 10 minutes. Remove from oven and allow to cool. Approximately 10-15 minutes.

Cheesecake
1. Preheat oven to 325 degrees (F). Line the bottom of a 10 inch springform pan with parchment paper. 
2. In the bowl of a standing mixer fitted with a paddle attachment, beat cream cheese with sugar until light and fluffy, scraping down the sides of the bowl as necessary. Approximately 4-6 minutes.
3. Add vanilla and mix until blended.
4. In a separate bowl, whip egg whites with cream of tartar until soft, but stable peaks form.
5. On low speed, using a whisk attachment on the standing mixer, blend in egg whites until no white streaks remain. Or alternately, use a hand held whisk to blend the egg whites into cream cheese mixture using a until no white streaks can be seen.
6. Pour cheesecake batter into the pre-baked crust. Bake for 25-30 minutes or until puffy, but still jiggly like jello. 
7. Remove from oven and allow to set for 5 minutes before putting sour cream mixture on top.
8. In a medium sized bowl, whisk together the sour cream, sugar, and vanilla.
9. Drop dollops of the sour cream mixture over the top of the cheesecake. Smooth with an offset spatula.
10. Return to the oven and continue baking for 10-12 minutes. Note: My baking time was 12 minutes.
11. Place pan on a cooling rack. Allow to cool at least 1 hour or until it has cooled completely before covering in plastic wrap and refrigerating. Chill cheesecake for at least 6 hours or preferably overnight.
12. Run a knife along the edge of the pan before unlatching the springform pan. Transfer cheesecake to cake stand or platter.
13. Arrange fruit on top of cheesecake and serve immediately.
14. Store any leftovers in the refrigerator.

Notes: (1) Instead of fresh fruit, can serve a fruit compote with the cheesecake. (2) For an even more luxurious finish, top each slice of cheesecake with some Luxardo Cherries. (3) If you like a thicker graham cracker crust, increase ingredients by 1/4 (i.e., 2 1/2 cups graham cracker crumbs, 1/4 cup plus 2 Tablespoons sugar, 7 1/2 Tablespoons unsalted butter, 5/8 teaspoon vanilla, 3/8 teaspoon cinnamon, generous pinch of kosher salt).

Graham Cracker Custard Pie

The last time 'the person who shall remain nameless' tasted a beloved Graham Cracker Custard Pie was almost 50 years ago. It was a pie only his maternal grandmother had made. Growing up. his family would regularly go to his grandparents house for Sunday dinner. As soon as he came in the door his grandmother would pull him aside and whisper in his ear 'I made two Graham Cracker Pies, one just for you.' But after his grandmother passed, no one could ever seem to get the beloved pie right. So for decades, the pie became a cherished childhood memory. Then last week, the recipe for the pie he so loved eating during his youth resurfaced in the box of recipes kept by his mother. And like many family recipes, the handwritten recipe card listed only the ingredients, no directions.

Favorite foods, especially ones with powerful memories, can often be a source of comfort during times of grief. This last week brought the unexpected passing of his father. By some kind of divine intervention, work and life had brought 'the person who shall remain nameless' the thousand miles to his father's home. Giving him the chance to spend time with his father during the last week of his life. This small, yet profoundly moving consolation of being able to say goodbye in person could only have been orchestrated by a higher power. There is no other logical explanation. 

Sometimes words cannot fully express one's sympathies when a friend or family member experiences the loss of a loved one. So rather than try to find the right words, I thought I would help ease the overwhelming sense of sadness caused by such a significant loss by making the Graham Cracker Custard Pie. Hoping memories of love and happiness would help soothe a hurting heart.

However, if I could not find directions for this Graham Cracker Custard Pie, all I would have would be my good intentions (and we all know there is a world of difference between thinking about doing something and actually doing it). Having never heard of a Graham Cracker Custard Pie before, I realized I would need to jump into the proverbial recipe search rabbit hole. Crossing my fingers the directions for this pie were out there somewhere. The good news: they were. The bad news: there were conflicting directions on how to make it. I could tell you I used custard making logic in deciding which set of directions made the most sense. But that wouldn't be telling the complete truth. I went with a part logic, part luck, and a part 'hoping someone was watching out for me' decision.

In the process of looking for the directions, I learned this graham cracker pie, filled with a slightly decadent creamy custard, and usually topped with a meringue was one made by grandmothers and mothers in the 1950s. Definitely falling into the category of 'old, cherished and treasured' recipes. Some claimed the 'original' recipe was printed on the box of graham crackers. Although, due to the number of variations in ingredient amounts as well as in directions, I wondered what the 'original' recipe actually might have been. If I stayed down this rabbit hole, I might have found it. But I didn't. Here in the states it was called Graham Cracker Pie, while in Canada it was called Prairie Flapper Pie. Could different graham cracker package labeling been responsible for creating two different names for essentially the same pie? Maybe.

Like all of the cooks, past and present, making this Graham Cracker Custard Pie, I too couldn't leave anything alone. The list of ingredients for the graham cracker crust on the recipe card listed only three ingredients: graham crackers, butter and sugar. The crust for this pie was made with: graham crackers, sugar, butter, kosher salt, vanilla, and cinnamon. In the making of this pie, I stayed true to crushing whole graham crackers to make the crumbs.

The only part of this pie actually baked is the crust. It only takes 10 minutes in a pre-heated 325 degree (F) oven. The crust needs to made first as it needs to cool to room temperature before the custard is added.

I kept all of the ingredients for the custard the same, except the sugar. I increased it from 1/4 cup to 1/3 cup. Mostly because I could not find another recipe using 1/4 cup of sugar with similar ingredient proportions. But more so because I didn't think 1/4 cup wasn't going to give the custard the right amount of sweetness. As luck would have it, this decision turned out to be a good one as after one taste of the custard the person who shall remain nameless had only three words to say: 'you nailed it'.

If you have made a pudding or a custard before, you know it's important to take steps to ensure the egg yolks don't curdle. After the scalded milk is added to the sugar/cornstarch/salt and mixture is slightly thickened, a half cup of the hot mixture is whisked into a bowl of the blended egg yolks. For good measure, I always whisk in a second half cup of the hot mixture into the eggs before returning it all to the pan. By adding a small amount of the hot mixture to the eggs and whisking rapidly, you prevent any curdling from happening to the finished custard. Once this 'egg mixture' is returned to the pan, your custard will have just the right consistency in approximately 2-3 minutes. Note: Whisking constantly throughout the entire custard making process will help assure you end up with the creamiest, smoothest custard possible.

The custard should cool slightly before being poured into the baked graham cracker crust. After 30 minutes, with some regular stirring to prevent a skin from forming on top, my custard was cool enough. 

At this point in the making of the beloved Graham Cracker Custard Pie, it was how the 'person who shall remain nameless' remembered it. His grandmother did not finish it with a meringue topping. I asked 'what did she do with the egg whites?'. But after asking that question, I realized a 12 year old boy might not have known to even ask that question. Instead, I asked 'Would you mind if I added the meringue to the pie?'. The easy was answer was 'no'. Because when you wait 50 years for this pie, all you really care about is re-tasting the custard from your childhood memory.

I could have made a traditional meringue topping, but no. I wanted this one to be finished with something different than a French style meringue. So I decided to try my hand at making a Swiss Meringue. If it didn't turn out, well then the Graham Cracker Custard Pie would be same as the one written on the recipe card. But if it did turn out, well, then it would be one made this time around with even more love.

Instead of first beating egg whites until they are light, airy and having soft peaks and then adding the sugar to stabilize and increase the meringue's volume, a Swiss meringue involves cooking a bowl of egg whites and sugar over hot steaming water. When the mixture reaches 175 degrees (F), the bowl is transferred to a standing mixture and beaten until smooth, silky, and marshmallowy in volume. Swiss meringue is denser and slightly more flavorful than a French meringue. Additionally, it's texture is perfect for piping onto a pie or cake. For a slightly more dramatic finish, I browned Swiss Meringue with a kitchen torch.  Go big or go home, right? Note: Wait until the pie has completely chilled before finishing with the Swiss meringue.

This Graham Cracker Custard Pie lasted less than 24 hours. And with the exception of the teeny, tiny sliver I took, there was only one person eating it. Because when you wait 50 years for a pie, you are given a pass from exercising any form of self-control. Had the creamy custard combined with the slightly decadent Swiss meringue topping not been so rich, it wouldn't have even lasted that long.

In spite of making some slight changes to his grandmother's recipe, it accomplished everything I had hoped it would. Not only is this slightly modified recipe now preserved so it can be made again (this time with directions), the Graham Cracker Custard Pie turned out to be exactly the kind of comfort a grieving heart deserved.

Recipe
Graham Cracker Custard Pie (Custard recipe based on a treasured family recipe; Swiss Meringue recipe, slightly altered, from Serious Eats)
Serves 8

Ingredients
Crust
2 cups (220 g) graham cracker crumbs, preferably made by crushing graham crackers
1/4 cup (50g) granulated sugar
6 Tablespoons unsalted butter, melted
Pinch of kosher salt
1/2 teaspoon vanilla
1/4 teaspoon ground cinnamon (optional, but recommended)

Custard
1/3 cup (67g) granulated sugar
2 Tablespoons cornstarch
1/4 teaspoon kosher salt
1 teaspoon vanilla
2 cups whole milk
3 large egg yolks (reserve egg whites for meringue)

Swiss Meringue
2/3 cup (170 g) egg whites, from 5-6 large eggs (use the egg whites from the custard, plus whites from 2-3 additional large eggs)
1 1/4 cup plus 1 Tablespoon (255 g) granulated sugar
1/4 teaspoon kosher salt
1/4 teaspoon cream of tarter
2 teaspoons vanilla

Directions
Crust
1. Preheat oven to 325 degrees (F).
2. In a medium sized bowl, combine the crumbs, sugar, melted butter, salt, vanilla, and cinnamon until well blended. 
3. Press firmly into the bottom and up the sides (about 3/4") of a 9" tart pan.
4. Bake for 10 minutes. Remove from oven and allow to cool.

Custard
1. Combine cornstarch, sugar and salt in a medium sized saucepan. Mix together. Set aside.
2. In a small bowl, whisk together the egg yolks. Set aside.
3. Scald milk on the stovetop. Milk will have tiny bubbles along the edge but will not be boiling.
4. Over medium-low flame, slowly add 1 cup of the scalded milk to the cornstarch/sugar/salt mixture whisking constantly. As the mixture begins to thicken, add the second cup of the scalded milk, stirring constantly until mixture begins to thicken. Note: Cooking time will be somewhere between 5 and 8 minutes.
5. Remove pan from heat. Remove about 1/2 cup of the mixture and whisk into the beaten eggs. Add a second 1/2 cup of the mixture, whisk, and immediately return mixture back into the pot. Return pot to medium-low flame and continue to stir constantly.
6. Cook custard for an additional 2-3 minutes or until it reaches pudding consistency and just begins to boil. Remove pan from heat.
7. Stir in vanilla.
8. Allow custard to cool for at least 30 minutes. Note: Stir custard occasionally while cooling in order to prevent a skin from forming on top.
9. Pour cooled custard into the graham cracker shell. Chill in the refrigerator for at least 4 hours or overnight.

Swiss Meringue
1. Fill a wide deep pan with at least 1 1/2" of water. Make a thick ring of crumpled tinfoil placed inside to act as a 'booster seat'. Over high heat, bring water to a steaming hot level. Then adjust to maintain a gentle simmer.
2. Combine egg whites, sugar, salt, cream of tartar, and vanilla in the metal bowl of a standing mixer. Set on top of the 'booster seat' over the steaming water. 
3. Stirring and scraping continuously using a flexible spatula, bring mixture to 175 degrees (F). Approximately 8-12 minutes.
4. Transfer bowl to a standing mixer fitted with a paddle attachment and whip at high speed until meringue is glossy and beginning to ball up inside the whisk (approximately 5 minutes). 
5. Transfer mixture to a pastry bag fitted with tip of choice. Decorate top of chilled pie. Alternately drop dollops of the meringue on top of the pie and finish by making a swirl pattern using the back of a large spoon.
6. Brown the meringue until desired 'brownness' using a kitchen torch.
7. Serve Graham Cracker Custard Pie. Store any leftovers in the refrigerator.

Notes: (1) Pie can be served without a Swiss Meringue topping or without a traditional meringue. (2) If you have never made Swiss meringue before, recommend watching the Serious Eats video. (3) Pie can be made in either a glass/ceramic pie plate or tart pan with removable bottom. 

Strawberry Jam Tart

"In solitude there is healing. Speak to your soul. Listen to your heart. Sometimes in the absence of noise we find the answers." At some point I realized baking was more than a creative outlet for me. It had therapeutic value. Unlike cooking, baking is a little more precise and requires a higher degree of attention to detail. Focusing all of my attention and energies on ensuring dough has the right feel; caramels reach just the right temperature; custard achieves the right consistency; or, ingredients are assembled in the right amounts, momentarily suspends and silences all of life's white noise. The physical and mental energies expended during baking process give my constantly racing mind a different kind of rest. I treasure those brief periods of time when I can get lost in attending to the details of a recipe. Cooking can be a communal process, but baking is more of a personal, private experience. At least it is for me. Which is why you won't find me participating in a holiday cooking baking/exchange day. For all of those seemingly selfish, but not always understood reasons, I savor the time I can bake all alone in my kitchen, soothing my spirit while creating gifts to share with those I love. 

I had been wanting to make this Strawberry Jam Tart for weeks but kept putting it off for a variety of reasons. However, a series of life events in the last week created a sense of baking urgency. With the level of white noise at an almost deafening level, I hoped this tart would provide relief, comfort, and a little joy I so badly wanted. Spoiler Alert: It delivered on all fronts.

The inspiration for this recipe came from Renee Erickson's cookbook 'A Boat, A Whale, and A Walrus'. Having made several of her recipes before, my level of trust in the 'deliciousness' of the yet unmade Strawberry Jam Tart was high. However, I still felt the need to do my usual search to see what other Strawberry Jam Tarts were out there or who else had made this particular recipe before. It turned out, I discovered David Lebovitz published a very similar recipe, one he called an Easy Jam Tart in 2008 (it subsequently was published in his book 'Ready for Dessert'). I also discovered there was one other person claiming to have made Renee's tart before, however, they did and they didn't. After comparing the two recipes, I decided to use the ingredient amounts recommended by Renee but changed the oven baking temperature to somewhere between her recommended 350 degrees (F) and David's recommendation of approximately 375 degrees (F). I settled on 360 degrees (F). 

There were two other significant differences between the recipes. The first had to do with the tart dough. One said the dough could be rolled out, the other suggested it be pressed into the tart pan. (It rolled out beautifully after being chilled for 90 minutes.) The second difference dealt with dividing the dough for the base and top of the tart. One said to divide it equally in half, the other said to make a 2/3 and 1/3 division. (The 2/3-1/3 recommendation intuitively seemed to make the most sense, but photos of the tarts were equally convincing.)

The dough for the tart is essentially a shortbread, however, this one is made with both all-purpose flour and medium ground polenta/cornmeal. The addition of the polenta added flavor and enhanced the texture. I absolutely loved the taste of the baked tart dough.

To make the tart dough, you can use a standing mixer with a paddle attachment or a hand held mixer (you can even use a food processor). The hand held mixer worked so well, I am not sure I would use a standing mixer next time. Both recipes called for the use of almond extract (but only 1/8 of a teaspoon). However, I used vanilla extract instead (increasing the amount to 1/2 teaspoon). If you decide to use almond extract, use only 1/8 teaspoon or you will overwhelm the flavor of the dough.

The tart dough comes together very easily. Once made it is divided, shaped into disks, wrapped in plastic wrap, and refrigerated. Chilling the dough for 90 minutes was long enough for it to be rolled out on a lightly floured surface. If you chill the dough for only 60 minutes, more than likely you will have to press the dough evenly onto the bottom and sides of the pan. Note: Use a 9" tart pan with removal bottom or a 9" inch springform pan for this tart.

After transferring the rolled out dough into the 9" tart pan, press the edges of the dough into the sides of the tart pan. Then put the tart pan in the refrigerator to re-chill and stabilize the dough. You can chill it for up to 30 minutes or for as long as it takes you to roll and cut out shapes for the top of the tart. If your dough cut-outs get soft, transfer them to a piece of parchment paper and chill in the refrigerator for 15-20 minutes or put in the freezer for 10 minutes.

Spread the strawberry jam evenly over the base of the chilled tart dough. Note: Do not spread jam on tart shell before chilling. Arrange your dough cut outs over the top, brush with the egg wash and sprinkle with a coarse sparkling or sanding sugar. The sugar adds a bit of sweetness and crunch to the tart. 

For some reason I thought my carefully cut diamond dough cut outs would retain their shape in the baking process. They didn't. But I wasn't exactly unhappy or disappointed with the results. S instead of making diamond cut outs, you could cut out circles, overlapping them to completely cover the top of the tart or only slightly overlapping them so some of the jam remains exposed. Or you can try it this way. Or for a rustic finish, you can drop pieces of dough over the top. Or you can create your own design. The finishing options are endless.

The tart bakes in a pre-heated 360 degree (F) oven for 25 to 30 minutes or until the top is a beautiful golden brown. Note: My baking time was closer to the 30 minute mark. 

Renee recommended serving the Strawberry Jam Tart warm with some heavy cream poured over it. I served it room temperature without any cream, ice cream, freshly whipped cream, or confectionary sugar. It is so good on its' own it really didn't need anything else. But now you have warm and room temperature serving options. And, oh, that ratio of crust to jam? It is pure tart perfection.

You could serve this Strawberry Jam Tart for breakfast, for dessert, or as a snack. It doesn't just have to be a 'Strawberry' Jam Tart. You could use raspberry jam/preserves, mixed berry jam/preserves, blackberry jam/preserves, or apricot jam/preserves instead. I happen to be partial to Strawberry so it might be awhile before I think of switching out jams in this tart. If you aren't using your own homemade jam/preserves for this tart (lucky you), use a good quality jarred one.

So you might be wondering, did I feel better after spending several hours of solitude in the kitchen making this Strawberry Jam Tart? I did. But I felt even better after serving it to my friends as there wasn't a crumb left behind on their plates! 

Recipe
Strawberry Jam Tart (slight adaptation to Renee Erickson's Strawberry Jam Tart recipe as shared in her cookbook 'A Boat, a Whale, and a Walrus' and influenced by David Lebovitz's Easy Jam Tart recipe from 'Ready for Dessert')
Serves 8

Ingredients
10 Tablespoons unsalted butter, room temperature
1/2 cup (100 g) granulated sugar
2 large eggs, divided
1 large egg yolk
1/2 teaspoon vanilla (or 1/8 teaspoon almond extract)
1 1/2 cups (192 g) all-purpose flour, plus more for rolling out dough
1/2 cup (70 g) medium stone-ground polenta or cornmeal
2 teaspoons baking powder
1 teaspoon kosher salt or sea salt
16 ounces (1 3/4 cups) strawberry preserves or strawberry jam (See notes)
2 Tablespoons sanding or sparkling sugar, demerara sugar, or turbinado sugar

Directions
1. In a standing mixer fitted with a paddle attachment or in a large bowl using a hand mixer, cream the butter and sugar on medium speed until light and fluffy (approximately 1 minute).
2. Add 1 of the eggs and the egg yolk and vanilla. Blend again on medium speed until combined. Scrape down sides of bowl with a spatula as needed.
3. In a separate bowl, whisk together the flour, baking powder, salt, and polenta/cornmeal. With mixer on low speed, add the dry ingredients in 2-3 separate additions, mixing just until incorporated.
4. Divide dough in 2/3 and 1/3 portions. Notes: Use a scale to the weigh portions, if possible. 
5. Shape dough into disks, wrap in plastic wrap and chill for at least 90 minutes. Note: If chilled longer, allow to sit our for up to 10 minutes before rolling out.
6. On a lightly floured surface, roll out the larger piece of dough to a 10-11 inch circle, approximately 1/4 inch thick. Transfer the dough to a 9" tart pan with removable bottom (or 9" springform pan). Press the dough into the sides of the pan with your fingers. Put tart pan in the refrigerator while rolling out smaller disk of dough. Note: If using a springform pan, push dough up about 3/4" up the sides of the pan. 
7. Roll out smaller disk of dough on a lightly floured surface. Cut into desired shapes (diamonds, circles, etc.) 
8. Preheat oven to 360 degrees (F).
9. Remove tart shell from the refrigerator. Spread the strawberry jam in an even layer.
10. Arrange dough cut outs on top in desired pattern. Dough will spread during baking so complicated designs may not work well.
11. Whisk remaining egg with 1 Tablespoon of water. Brush on top and sides of crust. Sprinkle with the sparkling sugar.
12. Bake the tart on the middle rack in the oven until the pastry is golden brown (approximately 25-30 minutes).
13. Remove from oven and place tart pan on cooling rack.
14. Remove tart from pan and transfer to a platter or cake stand when ready to serve. Note: The Strawberry Jam Tart can be served warm or at room temperature.

Notes: (1) Instead of strawberry jam/preserves, I am certain raspberry, blackberry, or mixed berry jam/preserves would work equally well. Although I am particularly fond of strawberry. (2) For a more rustic look to the top of the tart, simply break of small pieces of dough instead of rolling out and cutting into shapes. (3) Tart is best on day made, however, it keeps well if covered and placed in the refrigerator. Bring to room temperature before serving. (4) If using a springform pan, line the bottom of the pan with parchment paper to make the tart's removal easier.  (5) I weighed all of my ingredients on a scale in the making of this tart.

Cape Neddick "Nubble" Light, the iconic lighthouse Cape Neddick, York, Maine 

Raspberry Crumb Bars

"I am beginning to recognize that real happiness isn't' something large and looming on the horizon ahead, but something small, numerous and already here." (Beau Taplin) It doesn't seem to take much to make me happy lately. Season seven of the Game of Thrones returned this past week, I bought a small 'kiddie' pool for running and exercise recovery reasons (partly true), having coffee with friends after running and/or working out, I absolutely loved a book (Eleanor Oliphant is Completely Fine) I came across unexpectedly, and the driveway went from looking like blight to brand new thanks to a long over due coat of sealer were some of the sources of happiness this week. It's true what they say. There is much to be said for finding joy in the small things. If you look back at your week, what would be those things that made your heart race or brought a smile to your face?

I thought these Raspberry Crumb Bars were really, really, really good, but having friends say they loved them was yet another of the week's highlights. Validation never ever gets old. I could say 'at least for me' but I don't think I am the only one who thrives on hearing kind words. One of the simplest gifts we can give to others, especially to those we love or value. Generosity comes in many forms, but gifting with words may be the most powerful of them all.

But let's not underestimate the power of a platter of home baked treats to let others know they matter to you. In the absence of words, the gift of anything homemade speaks volumes. Like these buttery, sumptuous Raspberry Crumb Bars for example. Amazon reminded me I bought the cookbook "Flour: Spectacular Recipes from Boston's Flour Bakery and Cafe" almost seven years ago. But it took seeing the luscious, ripe raspberries at this week's farmer's market to get me to make them.

I have made a number of fruit bar recipes before, but these may now be my favorite for so many reasons. All-purpose and cake flours help to create the tenderest of shortbread crusts. The butter adds the kind of melt in your mouth richness you come to expect from a really great shortbread. Granulated and confectionary sugars bring just the right amount of sweetness. The addition of fresh raspberries to the layer of raspberry preserves took these crumb bars to yet another level. 

Like the old adage 'don't judge a book by its' cover', don't judge these Raspberry Crumb Bars by their directions. At first look, they will appear to be a little on the cumbersome side. If anything, they are more on the time intensive than on the labor intensive side. 

The dough for the shortbread base is beautifully soft and supple. It all begins with beating the butter and sugars together until light and fluffy (approximately five minutes). This first step is key so don't rush through it. With the addition of the egg yolks and vanilla there is another 2-3 minutes of beating time. The sifted dry ingredients are added slowly and mixed only until fully incorporated. The consistency of the dough requires it to be chilled. At a minimum the chilling time is 30 minutes, at a maximum it is 2 hours. After following the original recipe as written, I am not convinced a quarter of the dough needs to be put in the freezer for two hours. I think the dough for the base and dough for the top could both be refrigerated for at least 30 minutes, although 60 minutes may be better. But more on the top layer of these Raspberry Crumb Bars later.

Instead of making free form bars, these were baked in a 9"x12" baking pan. After the lightly floured dough was rolled between two sheets of parchment paper, it was lifted and placed into the pan (top piece of parchment paper removed before baking). The base layer is baked in a preheated 350 degree (F) oven for approximately 20 minutes or until a very light brown. Before the raspberry jam/preserves and if using, fresh raspberries are evenly spread over the base crust, the baked base needs to cool for 10-15 minutes. 

A large hole box or hand held grater is used to turn the block of frozen dough into chards of dough. Honestly, this was a bit messy. Which made me think it might be easier to break off bits of dough and spread evenly over the top of the jam/fruit before returning the baking pan to the oven. Eliminating the step of freezing some of the dough for 2 hours and replacing it with a chill time of approximately 60 minutes would save considerable time in the making of these Raspberry Crumb Bars.

The baking pan returns to the oven and continues to bake for 20-30 minutes or until the top is golden brown. As it turned out my baking time was 30 minutes, but would recommend you begin checking yours for doneness at the 20 minute mark. Before they are lightly dusted with confectionary sugar, the bars need to cool to room temperature. Yes, I know, this seems like a day long project. Maybe its' a half day one, but the investment of time has an incredible pay off.

The ratio of jam/preserves to shortbread is crumb bar perfection. All of the expectations I had for these Raspberry Crumb Bars were exceeded. They redefine melt in your mouth deliciousness. After cutting them into 18 smaller bars, I understood why the original recipe called for cutting them into 9 larger bars. As one small bar turned out to be a bit of tease. 

These Raspberry Crumb Bars are what you would expect to find at a high quality bakery. When you serve these to your friends and family, I wouldn't at all be surprised if they asked you where you got them. I can tell you these bars will be good for several days if stored in a covered container. But it's highly unlikely they will last that long. When you travel to the grocery store to pick up some raspberry jam or preserves, you should probably buy two jars. I have a strong feeling you will be making these more than once. 

Recipe
Raspberry Crumb Bars (a slight adaptation to Joanne Chang's recipe in her cookbook "Flour: Spectacular Recipes from Boston's Flour Bakery and Cafe")
Makes 9 large bars or 18 medium sized ones

Ingredients
1 1/2 cups (3 sticks/342 grams) unsalted butter, room temperature
1/2 cup (100 grams) granulated sugar
3 Tablespoons confectionary or caster sugar
2 large egg yolks
1 teaspoon vanilla
1 1/4 cups (175 grams) all-purpose flour
1 1/2 cups (180 grams) cake flour
3/4 teaspoon baking powder
3/4 teaspoon kosher salt
1 1/2 cups (510 grams) raspberry jam or preserves, with seeds. See Note.
1/4 cup (35 grams) confectionary sugar
Optional: 1/4 pint fresh raspberries

Directions
1. In a medium sized bowl, sift together the all-purpose flour, cake flour, baking powder, and kosher salt. Set aside.
2. In a standing mixer fitted with a paddle attachment, cream the butter, granulated sugar, and confectionary sugar on medium speed for approximately 5 minutes or until mixture is very light and fluffy. Stop the mixer intermittently to scrape down the sides and bottom of the bowl.
3 Beat in the egg yolks and vanilla at medium speed for 2-3 minutes or until yolks are fully incorporated. Scrape the sides of the bowl as needed.
4. On low speed gradually add in sifted flour mixture. Mix until flour is totally incorporated. Again stop the mixer as needed to scrape the bowl to make certain all of the flour is fully incorporated.
5. Scrape the dough onto a large sheet of plastic wrap. Remove 1/4 of the dough and transfer to a separate sheet of plastic wrap. 
6. Form large piece of dough into a rectangle, at least 1 inch thick. Form the smaller piece of dough into a small brick shape. 
7. Place the large piece of the dough into the refrigerator for at least 30 minutes. Note: If freezing small piece of dough for 2 hours, chilling time on the dough will be approximately 90 minutes.
8. Place the small piece of dough into the freezer for 2 hours. Note: Alternately, place small piece of dough in the refrigerator as well.
9. Preheat oven to 350 degrees (F). Position a rack in the center of the oven.
10. On a large sheet of parchment paper, trace the outline of a 9"x13" or 9"x12" baking pan. Turn paper over so ink or pencil is facing down. Lightly sprinkle the top of the dough with all-purpose flour. Top with another piece of parchment paper. Roll out large piece of dough to the size of the baking pan selected (see above).
11. Transfer parchment paper to baking pan. Remove top piece of parchment paper.
12. Bake for approximately 20 minutes, or until the shortbread is very light brown. Allow to cool for 10-15 minutes. Keep oven on.
13. Spread the raspberry jam/preserves evenly over the slightly cooled crust. Optional: Sprinkle with 1/4 pint of raspberries if using.
14. Remove small piece of dough from the freezer. Using the large holes of a handheld or box grater, grate dough into large flakes over the jam/preserves. Make sure dough is evenly distributed. Note: If the small piece of dough was refrigerated but not frozen, break up into small pieces and evenly distribute over the jam/preserves.
15. Return baking sheet to the oven and bake for 20-30 minutes, or until top is lightly browned. Remove from oven and place pan on a wire rack to allow the bars to cool completely.
16. When cooled, sift confectionary sugar evenly over the top. Cut into bars. Note: For large sized bars, cut into 9 pieces. for medium sized bars, cut into 18 pieces.
17. Serve immediately or store bars in an airtight container for up to 3-4 days. Note: Can also wrap bars individually and store in the refrigerator.

Notes: (1) A 13 ounce jar of Bonne Maman Raspberry Preserves yielded exactly what the recipe called for. (2) Instead of the free form method of rolling out the dough into a 9"x12" or 9"x13" inch rectangle and transferring to a baking sheet, recommend rolling out dough to fit into a baking pan so all of the edges are even and there is no waste. (3) The use of fresh raspberries is optional, but they took these bars to an even higher level of deliciousness. (4) It may have been my oven, but the bars on the second bake didn't get to a golden brown color. But their taste/texture were perfect after 30 minutes of baking. However, recommend checking for doneness at 20 minutes. (5) These bars were made with Raspberry Preserves, but these would be equally delicious with Mixed Berry Preserves or Blackberry Preserves.

Summer's bounty at the local Farmer's Market (July 2017)