Friday, November 15, 2013

Spiced Cranberry and Dried Fruit Chutney


My first exposure to the taste of cranberries came at Thanksgiving while growing up in the midwest. To be more specific, it came in the form of a canned cranberry sauce (the jellied versus the whole berry version of course). As a kid, the overly sweet and tart cranberry sauce which slid out of the can and retained its' barrel like shape for hours was like having dessert with dinner. It made being forced to eat mashed potatoes tolerable. I don't think I ever saw a real cranberry until sometime well into adulthood. No, I am not going into a childhood food deprivation whine here (even though I would like to) as I would rather share how I came to find a cranberry alternative to the canned jellied sauce of my youth.


I don't have an exact count but I believe I have made more than a dozen versions of cranberry sauce and cranberry chutney over the years. Possibly more versions than any other food (including chocolate chip cookies). Whether it was using raw or cooked cranberries with varying amounts of sugar, spices, fruits, nuts or alcohol or whether it was a recipe labeled as a sauce or chutney, I just couldn't seem to find one having the perfect combination of taste and texture. Many of the recipes made I liked well enough, but I was committed to keep trying until I found 'the one' (I think I heard John Wayne's voice saying 'You are a persistent cuss, Pilgrim' several times over the past few years during this cranberry sauce/chutney making journey). For awhile I was beginning to think my search for this elusive perfect cranberry concoction would go on endlessly or I would just end up settling for one of them. One thing was certain, there would not be a return to the canned jellied cranberry sauce. So I was as beside myself as one can be when I finally discovered 'the one'. 'The one' turned out to be a spiced cranberry and dried fruit chutney. And it couldn't have been more different in taste and texture than what I had eaten growing up.


Of course, this would be one of those recipes I wouldn't share what the ingredients were until everyone had tasted it. Not because there was anything unusual in it, but because the combination of ingredients might give some pause before they even tried it (you know who these people are in your life). If you haven't guessed by now, I enjoy maintaining my 'taste first, tell later' philosophy when something new is being served. Particularly when this something new means a change is being made at the Thanksgiving table. Thankfully, this change was so well received I am convinced there would be a few unhappy campers if something other than spiced cranberry and dried fruit chutney was placed on the holiday dinner table.


Fresh cranberries, I have learned, come in various sizes. Some of the cranberries coming out of the bogs on the Cape are the size of large grapes and gorgeous, however, most cranberries are the size of marbles. Regardless of their size or shape, cranberries are not only one of the most beautiful fruits, they are considered by some to be a 'superfruit' due to their nutrient content and antioxidant qualities. Finally, I like a food that is actually good for you!


In addition to fresh cranberries, this chutney is made with two dried fruits: blueberries and apricots. The smaller wild dried blueberries are my personal favorites, but any dried blueberry will work in this chutney. The apricots are sliced thinly but not too thinly as you want them to remain intact in the chutney during the cooking process. Depending on the size of the dried apricots, they can yield three to four slices. I have found using scissors is easier than using a knife when slicing the apricots.

Okay so you are thinking, why all of the initial secrecy around the ingredients? Nothing different or unusual yet. Brown sugar and thawed frozen canned cranberry juice wouldn't qualify as different. However, maybe the combination of cinnamon, crystallized ginger, and crushed Aleppo pepper would. Alone the crystallized ginger and Aleppo pepper are not that unusual, except for me, they are not ingredients generally thought of as being used when making either cranberry sauce or chutney.

On the easy to hard scale, the making of this chutney falls to the easy end of the continuum. All of the ingredients except two are placed in a medium sized saucepan over medium-high heat. When the sugar has dissolved, the heat is increased to high. Stirring often, the mixture is boiled until thickened. This could take up to 4 minutes.
To gauge its' thickness readiness, I like to scrape a wooden spoon on the bottom of the pan. If I can see the bottom of the pan, I know I am at the right level of thickness. The chutney further thickens as it sets so if you slightly err the level of thickness, not to worry. Just make sure most of the cranberries have burst during the cooking process. When the chutney reaches the desired state of thickness you remove from heat and add a pinch of salt and two teaspoons of balsamic vinegar. While I think everyone likes balsamic vinegar, it might be another one of those ingredients not expected in a recipe with cranberries.

The oh so pretty cranberries are transformed into a really beautiful chutney. Beyond how it looks, I absolutely love the texture and layers of flavor in this chutney. And its' versatility makes it preferable over a traditional cranberry sauce. In addition to being a great side with either chicken or turkey, it can be served as an appetizer with softened cream or goat cheese and crackers. If that wasn't enough versatility for you, it also makes for a terrific condiment on turkey sandwiches.
Recipe (updated November 2019)
Spiced Cranberry and Dried-Fruit Chutney (ever so slight adaptation to recipe created by Jan Schroeder of Corvallis, Oregon)

Ingredients
2 cups (8 ounces/228 g) fresh cranberries
16 dried apricots, thinly sliced
1/2 cup (3 1/2 ounces/100g) dried blueberries
1/3 cup (67g) light brown sugar
1/4 cup (1 3/8 ounces/40g) crystallized ginger, chopped
1/4 cup frozen cranberry juice, thawed (frozen cranberry juice is more concentrated than cranberry juice in the bottle and makes for a more flavorful chutney)
1/4 cup water
1/2 teaspoon Saigon cinnamon
1/8 teaspoon crushed Aleppo pepper (or cayenne pepper)
2 teaspoons balsamic vinegar
1/4 teaspoon Kosher salt

Directions
1. Place all ingredients (except balsamic vinegar and salt) in a medium saucepan.
2. Cook over medium heat until sugar dissolves.
3. Increase heat to medium-high and cook until mixture has thickened, stirring frequently. (approximately 8-12 minutes).
4. Remove from heat and add balsamic vinegar and season with Kosher salt.
5. Cool to room temperature. Cover and refrigerate.

Note: (1) The Spiced Cranberry and Dried Fruit Chutney can be made at least one day or up to a week before serving. Personally I like to make this chutney either on the morning of or the day before serving. (2) If serving more than 4 would highly recommend doubling the recipe. (3) The chutney pairs well with soft, creamy cheeses and crackers. It is a great addition to a charcuterie board.


A few weeks back I created a game of sorts with the only players being my niece and nephew. Once a week I text them a photo from an experience occurring during their childhood. The game part comes in when they have to identify its' location. The sibling who gets the location correct first receives a financial reward (we aren't talking alot of money here, just the kind of money that comes in handy for a college kid and just enough to peak their interest while indulging their aunt in this endeavor). With one of them in the eastern time zone and the other on mountain time, the timing of sending these texts has been the most challenging aspect of the game (because they are all about having it be fair, competitiveness is in their DNA).

Early on in their lives, they spent an incredible amount of time with us and almost every experience was photographed with a camera (cell phones with cameras weren't around back then, which really wasn't that long ago). I had wanted to capture these experiences in film, so that someday they could look back at the photos and remember their time spent at zoos, museums, county fairs, and on trips with an aunt and uncle who loved them very much. For me and hopefully for them, each of these experiences are (or will someday be) seen as the things that created the (indestructible) foundation of the relationship we have with one another today.

Now that they are in college and the amount of time spent with them is considerably less than it was when they were younger, I have sought to find (and not leave to chance) creative ways to continue to keep our connections with one another strong. So the game for me is just another way for me to remind them how much they have always been loved as well as a way of creating another memory between us as well as them. While it thrills me when they remember the events or places we went to, it thrills me even more to know that the quality of relationship we have with one another today came as a result of the time spent together. Finding ways to spend time and engage with these busy college kids on top of my busy life over the years hasn't always been easy. But every now and then, I need to make sure there are no cracks in the proverbial (relationship) foundation by creating new memories, even ones as seemingly silly as the game they are now playing.

Tuesday, November 12, 2013

Sweet Dream Cookies

Waking up to snow this morning had me momentarily experience the (irrational) fear that I had slept through Thanksgiving and the Christmas holidays were already upon us. (And if you have gone into any store these days you might actually believe this fear was plausible.) Before I even begin to think about buying presents or decorating for the Christmas holidays, my pre-holiday thoughts are usually about which cookies I will be making for friends and gatherings. So that's where my early November morning thoughts took me. Invariably I know I will make the 'standards' and will also make a new cookie or one I hadn't made in awhile. This morning I decided I would return to making the Sweet Dream Cookies, a chocolate chip cookie dredged in confectionary sugar and containing the spices of cinnamon and ginger. This is a recipe taking chocolate chip cookies to a very different dimension of look and taste.


It has been a few years since I have made the Sweet Dreams, a cookie having rather strong memories on many levels. The year there was a cookie baking contest held at work was when the permanently instilled memory occurred. When I hear the words cookie and contest in the same sentence, my interest is generally peaked. Although I wasn't responsible for organizing the contest, I was given the responsibility for getting the judges. So I asked three local community leaders, who all just happened to be men (men and food seemed to be a combination that made sense at the time) to, in the spirit of community service, judge the Christmas cookies made by their local educators.


The Sweet Dream cookies were amongst the array of cookies in the contest. After all of the cookies were tasted and rated, the judges learned who made each of the cookies. Now I have to be honest and say I thought I would win this little competition hands down (a moment of unusually high confidence). So when the judges came down to my office their first words, said in harmony (and well rehearsed) were 'Don't quit your day job'.  Even though the Sweet Dreams weren't awarded first place (I think they came in third), to this day I still think they were the best cookie in the competition. Call me a conspiracy theorist, but I have convinced myself the judges were challenged to award the 'blue ribbon' to the person who recruited them, the person who was also one of their peers in the community. (Yes, I have had to rationalize this cookie contest 'loss' somehow.) Whatever memories that are created when you make this cookie, who knows what they will be, but you won't have any unless, of course, you make them.


There are two kinds of sugar in this cookie: brown sugar and confectionary sugar. The brown sugar is mixed into the batter while the confectionary sugar is reserved for rolling the balls of dough in before the cookies are baked.


What changes these cookies from chocolate chip cookies to Sweet Dreams are the spices ginger and cinnamon. Like the use of sea salt elevates the taste of chocolate, ginger and cinnamon compliment it perfectly. The Sweet Dream recipe was around long before all of the 'designer' chocolates went mainstream. Someone was definitely ahead of their time when they created this recipe.



This would be a no sifting required recipe. The flour, baking soda, cinnamon, ginger and salt are mixed together in a medium bowl and set aside. It is added to the batter created with the butter, brown sugar, vanilla and egg.


There are so many chocolate chips choices on the shelves of the grocery store these days it can be at times daunting as to which ones to choose. But my personal favorites are the Ghiradelli 60% bittersweet chocolate chips. They are a slightly oversized chocolate chip and when baked are creamy, not grainy. While it is an extra (and definitely worthwhile) step to toast walnuts before mixing them in, it is always preferable to buy walnut halves rather than pieces. To enhance the sweet nutty flavor of walnuts, they are simply placed on cookie sheet and baked at 350 degrees for 8 to 10 minutes.


This is one of those recipes where you have some wait time before you bake them as the dough needs to be refrigerated for several hours or until the dough is firm. Personally, I consider making cookies needing refrigeration a good thing particularly during the baking frenzied holidays. Sometimes you just need to move on to other things and the 'make now, bake later' cookies are a blessing in disguise.



Once chilled the dough is formed into one inch balls. For purposes of uniformity I like using an ice cream scoop (if you don't have or haven't bought one yet, you might want to add this to your list this year, that is, if you can wait that long). The balls of dough are rolled in confectionary sugar and placed two inches apart on a parchment paper lined cookie sheet in a preheated 375 degree oven. The cookies bake for 12-14 minutes (if you reduce or increase the size of the balls of dough you will have to adjust your baking time). Important Note: The original recipe called for a 10 minute baking time but in my experience with these cookies, 10 minutes wasn't long enough. I would recommend you check for doneness at 10 minutes and then adjust the time based on your oven. 

These cookies are as delicious as they are beautiful (makes me wonder if the judges in the cookie contest were wearing blind folds when they were tasting cookies!). And no, I am not getting started on baking holiday cookies, it's just the Sweet Dreams cookies have been put on hiatus for much too long and today was the perfect day to resurrect them. I guess I just couldn't want to wait any longer until these cookies were made and shared. And oh, as for how the outcome of the cookie contest has affected me, well let's just say it was really an endearing memorable moment amongst friends, the most important part of this memory.

Recipe
Sweet Dream Cookies (minor adaptations of a recipe from the Foothill House Bed and Breakfast, Calistoga, California)
Updated 12/20

Ingredients
1 cup (226g) unsalted butter, room temperature
1 1/2 cups (300g) firmly packed light brown sugar
1 large egg, room temperature
1 teaspoon vanilla
2 1/2 cups (325g) all-purpose flour
1 teaspoon baking soda
1 teaspoon Saigon cinnamon
1 teaspoon ground ginger
1/2 teaspoon Kosher salt
12 ounces (340g) semi-sweet or dark chocolate chips 
1 cup (115g) walnuts, toasted and chopped
1 cup (120g) confectionary sugar

Directions
1. Combine flour, baking soda, cinnamon, ginger and salt in a medium bowl. Set aside.
2. In the bowl of a standing fitted with a paddle attachment cream the butter.
3. Beat in the brown sugar, and vanilla. Add egg and continue mixing until well blended.
4. Blend flour mixture into the butter/sugar/egg mixture.
5. Fold in chocolate chips and walnuts.
6. Refrigerate until firm, at least 2 hours or overnight.
7. Preheat oven to 365 degrees (F).
8. Form dough into one inch balls. Dredge in confectionary sugar before placing on a parchment paper lined baking sheet. Space at least 2 inches apart.
9. Bake 12-14 minutes rotating pan midway through the baking process. Allow the cookies to cool 5 minutes on cookie sheets before removing.
10. Transfer to racks, cool and serve or store in an airtight container.


If there is one thing I know to be true is that taste is all a matter of opinion. What I or anyone else thinks looks good or tastes could either be the same or different. These perceptions are not nearly as important as is how one shares them. There are nuances to being honest, being polite, and there is also context. How I might say something to a really good friend or someone I care about might be a little different than what I might say to someone I don't know well, to a co-worker, or to someone that no longer matters to me. I say 'might' because sometimes I might say the exact same thing or I 'might' say something completely different. Giving a compliment or validating someone is a whole lot easier than expressing a differing view.

For me it's all about reading the context, reading the person. Sometimes a really close friend is in a place in their lives where the words chosen need to be a little more thoughtful. Judging when or when not to use humor can be the one thing that either makes them feel good and laugh or makes them wonder 'what is she thinking?' Either way I know I play a role in whatever their reaction might be. I certainly can't take credit for making someone laugh but not take some responsibility if they are momentarily wounded. I say 'momentarily' because how I react to them will affect whether my words remain with them or are forgotten (and possibly coming back as good teasing later on). In this day and age when face to face and ear to ear conversations are replaced (intentionally and unintentionally) with emails or texts, we lose the opportunity to strengthen connections. Maybe even more important, we risk having our intended outcome go awry. Seeing and hearing the judges (aka friends) say 'Don't quit your day job' just might have been received very differently if it came in the form of an email. For me, facial expressions, body language, and tone communicate more than words. They always have, they always will.

Saturday, November 9, 2013

Mushroom and Herb Polenta


Polenta has generally been one of those 'order in a restaurant, but not make at home' foods. I have always believed the making of polenta was incredibly time intensive, which can sometimes be a deal breaker so to speak. I have also believed that instant polenta, the kind that cooks in less than five minutes (yes, less than five minutes) doesn't compare to the taste of the polenta you slave over the stove for almost an hour. My first belief is true, however, I recently learned that my second belief was false (yes, I was wrong about something). I would have never taken anyone's word that it wouldn't matter if you used regular or instant polenta in a recipe unless that anyone was a someone. And that someone would be Yotam Ottolenghi. Any remaining hint of skepticism I may have had about instant polenta (because I can be a little stubborn at times) completely vanished upon tasting Ottolenghi's Mushroom and Herb Polenta (made with instant polenta). Yes, Yotam Ottolenghi was right when he said it didn't matter if you used regular or instant polenta for this recipe.

I made the Mushroom and Herb Polenta a couple of days ago when having friends over for dinner and I am still dreaming about it. Not only was it incredibly beautiful, the taste of the herbs, cheeses, polenta and mushrooms on my palate were amazing. Seriously amazing, wicked amazing, like 'last meal request' amazing.

It is quite possible this will become a regular, predictable dish served to friends and family when they come over for dinner. Let this be a warning to my friends and family as my obsession with this dish isn't going to go away anytime soon. But after just one taste, I am pretty confident they just might indulge me in this new obsession.

I decided to use Cremini, Baby Bellas and Shiitake mushrooms mostly because I love their flavor. Consider using at least two but no more than three different kinds of mushrooms when you make this recipe (because yes more can sometimes be better).


The mushrooms are cooked in two batches. Heat two tablespoons of extra-virgin olive oil in a large frying pan. Add half of the mushrooms are sautĂ© until they reach the  'just cooked' stage (approximately 3-4 minutes). Rather than stirring the mushrooms constantly while cooking, allow the mushrooms to develop some golden spots on them. When finished cooking, transfer the mushrooms to a bowl. Heat the remaining two tablespoons of extra-virgin olive oil and sautĂ© the second batch of mushrooms. Transfer them to the bowl and stir in the chopped rosemary, thyme, tarragon, white truffle oil, minced garlic, as well as salt and pepper to taste. Keep the mushrooms warm or at room temperature while you cook the polenta. Ottolenghi's recipe called for adding one tablespoon of truffle oil to the mushrooms, however, for my palate I felt it would dominate the taste of mushrooms. Instead I used one teaspoon as well used the more delicate white truffle oil instead of the black truffle oil. Note: Alternately use 1/4 teaspoon of white truffle salt instead of white truffle oil.

This recipe uses two kinds of cheese:  Parmigiano-Reggiano and Taleggio. The Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese is finely grated and added to the cooked polenta, while the Taleggio is thinly sliced and melted on top of the cooked polenta. Taleggio is a semi-soft cow's milk Italian cheese having a thin curst and strong aroma but with both a mild tangy fruit and buttery flavor. Whole Foods generally carries this cheese, however, if you absolutely cannot find it, Fontina cheese could be substituted.

Instant polenta works incredibly well in this dish. There really is no need to use the polenta requiring a much longer cooking time. After bringing the vegetable stock to a boil, the instant polenta is slowly added (stir constantly). into boiling vegetable stock. Reduce the heat to simmer and continue cooking until the polenta begins to leave the sides of the pan, yet still has a very creamy consistency. When it reaches this consistency, remove from the heat and immediately stir in the grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese, butter, one teaspoon of freshly chopped rosemary as well as some salt and pepper to taste. Pour and spread the polenta onto a heatproof dish, one that can stand up to the heat of 450 degrees (F).

I wanted to serve the polenta on a wooden board (because it's all about presentation, right?) but I did not want to have the wood burn or worse yet, cause a fire. I had soaked the wooden board for less than 30 minutes and did not cover the bottom or sides. Next time, I will soak the board for at least an hour and cover the bottom and sides with aluminum foil to prevent charring on the wooden board.

Once the slices of Taleggio cheese are placed on the polenta, place in the oven (450 degrees F instead of the broiler setting) until the cheese melts and slightly bubbles (about two minutes). Remove the polenta from the oven and spoon over the mushrooms along with any remaining juice. Return the polenta back to the oven until the mushrooms are heated through (another 1 to 2 minutes). Serve immediately.

Recipe
Mushroom and Herb Polenta (slight adaptation to the Mushroom and Herb Polenta recipe from "Plenty: Vibrant Recipes from London's Ottolenghi")
Serves 6-8

Ingredients
4 Tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, divided
4 cups large mixed mushrooms, halved (recommend mixture of Cremini, Baby Bellas and Shiitake mushrooms)
2 to 3 garlic cloves, minced
1 Tablespoon finely chopped tarragon
1 Tablespoon finely chopped thyme
1 Tablespoon finely chopped rosemary and 1 teaspoon finely chopped rosemary (divided)
1 teaspoon white truffle oil (or 1/4 teaspoon white truffle salt)
2 1/4 cups vegetable stock
1/2 cup instant polenta
3 ounces Parmigiano-Reggiano, freshly grated
2 1/2 Tablespoons unsalted butter, room temperature
4 ounces Taleggio cheese (rind removed) cut into 1/4 to 3/8 inch slices (if absolutely unable to find Taleggio, use Fontina cheese instead)
Kosher Salt and black pepper

Directions
1. Heat 2 Tablespoons olive oil in large frying pan over medium-high heat. When oil is hot, add half of the mushroom and cook for a few minutes or until just cooked. Do not overly stir as you want the mushrooms to get golden brown patches. Remove cooked mushrooms and set aside
2. Add remaining 2 Tablespoons olive oil in pan and cook remaining mushrooms
3. Remove frying pan from heat and combine both batches of cooked mushrooms into the pan. Stir in the chopped garlic, tarragon, thyme, rosemary, truffle oil, salt and pepper. Cover to keep warm.
4. Bring vegetable stock to a boil in medium sized saucepan. Slowly stir in the polenta and reduce heat to simmer and cook, stirring constantly with a wooden spoon. Cooking time for the instant polenta is no more than 5 minutes. The polenta is ready when it leaves the sides of the pan but is still creamy.
5. Off the heat, add the butter, 1 teaspoon chopped rosemary, Parmigiano-Reggiano, salt and pepper to the cooked polenta. 
6. Preheat the oven to 450 degrees (F).
7. Spread the polenta over a heatproof dish and top with the Tallegio cheese. Place in a preheated oven for approximately 2 to 3 minute or until cheese begins to melt. Remove from oven.
8. Spread cooked mushrooms and all of their juices over the polenta. Return to the oven and bake for approximately 1 to 2 minutes to warm up mushrooms. 
9. Serve immediately.

Notes: (1) Lesson learned: If using a wooden board, soak for at least an hour before cooking and cover bottom and sides with aluminum foil to prevent charring. (2) If possible find a platter that can withstand extremely high temperatures.


If I have learned anything in the past year it is 'get over the fear of cooking with unfamiliar ingredients'. Being a somewhat competitive person (although the older I get the less intense this competitiveness is), I have been known to be reluctant making recipes that I wasn't exactly sure how they would turn out. My fears were grounded both in the failure to make something look and taste 'perfect' the first time as well as in not having a sense of the flavors or finished look of the recipe. There are times when I look at a recipe and think, this is too complicated, I can't make this. But if I am honest with myself, what I am really saying is 'I don't want to make this'. That way of thinking can be limiting when approaching cooking or pretty much everything else. That also includes our perceptions of simple and complicated, recognizing of course that what seems simple for one person may seem complicated for another and vice versa.

There are things I used to think were complicated or too difficult, that I now think are simple or at least easier. Why? Mostly because I invested the time and energy as well as wasn't willing to give up. I realize (but don't always acknowledge) that our perceptions can sometimes hold us hostage, hold us back. Whether it's polenta or a friendship, we won't know if or how it will turn out, unless we try. For some of us, that means trying a little harder or trying again or trying differently. Now that I have finally changed my perception of instant polenta, there are a few other perceptions I need to change as well. Whether changing those perceptions is easy or difficult shouldn't matter because I, in the spirit of the Nike motto, 'just need to do it'. What about you? Any fears or perceptions you would like to or are willing to change?  Remember the words of wisdom 'nothing changes unless we do'? Well those words would be true.

Friday, November 8, 2013

Shirley's Apple Crisp


Did you ever wonder why some recipes endure for generations within a family? Could it be that the making of the recipe evokes great childhood or family memories? Or could it be that no other recipe ever compares to its' original version? I actually think the answers to these questions are yes and yes. And those of us with whom these family legacy recipes are shared are twice blessed. First, because we were lucky enough to have been at a gathering where the treasured recipe was served, and second because the recipe was shared with us. Shirley's Apple Crisp is one of those recipes, one that has been made in the Hall family for the past 75 years. Yes, 75 years.


Sometimes you taste someone's treasured family recipe and say 'okay it's good'. Then there are times when you taste one and you say 'OMG, this is insanely delicious'. Shirley's Apple Crisp is a recipe that falls into the 'OMG insanely delicious' category. And not only is it insanely delicious, it could not be any easier to make. For those who firmly believe simpler is always better, a photo of this crisp should accompany that adage.


If my life had not crossed paths with my friend Trish (or Patty as she called by everyone except me) when we were college freshman at the University of Illinois in Urbana-Champaign (decades ago) I would have neither met her parents, Wayne and Shirley, nor come into this recipe. Words cannot begin to express how incredibly thankful I am for both of these experiences.


I may or may not have taken a few liberties with this recipe as in the version shared with me the type of apples used were not specified. And maybe 75 years ago when recipes were first recorded there was an unwritten understanding about what type of apple went into the crisp. Personally I love the tartness of Granny Smith apples and they are my hands down favorites in crisps. If you look up which apples are best used in crisps, Cortlands, Honeycrisps and Granny Smiths are the ones most frequently mentioned.


The crisp calls for 4 cups of peeled, cored and sliced apples. Because apples come in so many different size variations, the number of apples you will use may vary slightly.  This time, five and one half medium sized Granny Smith apples yielded 4 generous cups of apples when cut into 1/8th inch slices. Next time I might use only 4 or as many as 6 apples.

In a medium sized mixing bowl the sliced apples, a heaping teaspoon of cinnamon (the heaping part is all me as I love the flavor of cinnamon in a crisp), a 1/4 cup of water and a 1/2 teaspoon of salt  are mixed until the apples are well coated with the cinnamon.


The crisp's topping is made with only three ingredients: flour, sugar and butter. In the words of Ina Garten 'how easy is that?'. In a small to medium sized bowl, use either a pastry blender or a fork to blend together until the mixture is crumbly.


The apples are poured into a buttered pan. I used a 9 inch cast iron pan, however, a 9 inch metal pan will also work perfectly. Just remember butter the pan before putting in the apples.

Sprinkle the topping and completely cover the apples. Baked in a preheated 350 degree oven for 40 minutes, the crisp tastes best served warm with either vanilla ice cream or freshly whipped cream. For some reason this crisp screams 'serve me with vanilla ice cream!'. If I were still on the east coast I would serve it with Bliss's vanilla ice cream, however, now that I am here in the midwest Ben and Jerry's vanilla is the ice cream of choice (guess I am convinced that milk from cows on the east coast just tastes different). Whether you serve Shirley's Apple Crisp for dessert or just as a treat, this crisp is comfort food at its' best. And for me, this apple crisp brings more than comfort, it brings back the memories of what it felt like to be included into lives of the Hall family.

Recipe
Shirley's Apple Crisp 

Updated June 2023 

Ingredients
4 cups (864g) apples peeled, cored and sliced to about 1/4" thickness (about 4 large or 5 1/2 medium sized apples). Recommend using Granny Smith apples 
1 heaping teaspoon Saigon cinnamon
1/4 cup water
1/2 teaspoon Kosher salt
3/4 (98g) cup all-purpose flour
1 cup (200g) granulated sugar
1/3 cup (78g) unsalted butter, room temperature, cut into pieces

Directions
1. Preheat oven to 350 degrees (F)
2. Generously butter either a 9" cast iron of 9" inch round pan. Set aside.
3. Mix together the sliced apples, cinnamon, water and Kosher salt in a medium sized bowl. Mix until apples are coated with cinnamon. Pour into baking dish and set aside. (See Notes)
4. For the crisp topping, use either a pastry blender or fork to combine the flour, sugar, and butter until mixture is crumbly. (Suggestion: add just a tiny pinch of cinnamon) Set aside.
5. Pour apples into prepared pan. Spread crisp topping over the apples, covering completely.
6. Bake for 40 minutes or until the top has lightly browned and the filling is bubbling up on the sides.
7. Allow to rest (lightly covered) for at least 10 minutes before serving warm with vanilla ice cream or freshly whipped cream.

NOTES:  (1) The photos were updated in June 2023. (2) I added the juice of a half of a lemon to the apple mixture in addition to the 1/4 cup of water.  (3) I used a mandolin to slice the apples, but they could easily be sliced with a knife. Slices were cut slightly less than 1/4" thick. (4) If I make the topping first, I put in the refrigerator to chill while I slice and cut the apples.


With Thanksgiving just around the proverbial corner, I have started to think about all of the traditions surrounding this holiday. Both old traditions and new traditions. Old traditions always involve the food served for Thanksgiving dinner. For me those foods would be turkey, stuffing, cranberry chutney, mashed potatoes, sweet potatoes, cole slaw, gravy and pumpkin pie. Over the years these old traditions have been tweaked as the cranberry sauce has been replaced with a cranberry chutney; a cornbread, sausage and mincemeat stuffing is made in addition to the intensely flavored sage bread stuffing; and the pumpkin pie is no longer the stand alone dessert. But beyond food, old traditions involved spending this holiday with only family members. However, more than the changes to the food at the Thanksgiving table, the changes to who we spend Thanksgiving with seems to have changed the most. It is now a holiday where both friends and family come together to give thanks for all of the blessings in our lives.

Last year Thanksgiving was spent in Colorado with my sister, brother-in-law, niece and nephew. This year, Thanksgiving will be spent in Kentucky with friends. These 'new' traditions have and will create some lasting memories. Considering that I have been one to love the 'old' traditions associated with this holiday, I have come to love even more the creation of 'new' ones. Because in the end, this holiday is not just about the food and not just about keeping it a 'family' only holiday. This is a holiday meant to include extended family. I learned that concept of 'extended family' from Wayne and Shirley 30 something years ago. While recipes may endure from generation to generation, the feeling of being included in and embraced by someone else's family is life-changing.

Sunday, November 3, 2013

Nantucket Cranberry Pie


The recipe for the Nantucket Cranberry Pie was first published in November 2013. I have since updated the directions, photos, as well as added directions on making an orange flavored whipped cream. The flavors of slightly tart and sweet pie are elevated even further with a large dollop of the whipped cream. 

Until I discovered this recipe for Nantucket Cranberry Pie a couple of years ago, I had never tasted a pie made with fresh cranberries. My intake of cranberries were primarily in cranberry chutney, cranberry sauce, and, oh yes, dried cranberries in cookies or bread). I was a bit of a cranberry pie skeptic as I didn't think raw, tart cranberries would taste good in a pie. Even one baked for almost an hour. To say I was pleasantly surprised at the flavor and texture of this pie would be an understatement. The combination of fresh cranberries, pecans, orange and almond extracts make for one incredibly delicious slightly sweet, tart pie.

It may have been simplicity of the recipe or the fact that it may have originated Nantucket that initially drew me to this recipe. Fortunately, I didn't let my limited cranberry consumption exposure prevent me from making this pie. (Up until I started this blog, I actually thought I had a pretty good knowledge of and relatively wide range of experiences with food. I have caught myself more than once in the past year admitting to my unfamiliarity with or limited application to quite a few foods. So it seems that my perception hasn't been in alignment with my reality. At least on the culinary front that is.) 


While Thanksgiving is just a few weeks away, but this isn't just a Thanksgiving or autumnal pie. No, it is one of those pies that is delicious year round (that is for as long as you can find fresh cranberries). Having said that, it really would be a great addition to any array of Thanksgiving desserts. Even if you are serving a cranberry chutney or cranberry sauce during the meal, as there are certain times when there is no such thing as 'too much' cranberry). For those of you who believe otherwise, consider serving this on Thanksgiving morning, at least then there will be a several hour gap between your consumption of cranberries.  What I am trying to say is you should really make this pie as soon as you can find fresh cranberries in your grocery store or market.


In addition to the cranberries, pecans, butter, sugar, flour, eggs and sea salt, the pie also contains both almond and orange extracts. Be careful not to use 'imitation' extracts as they will not yield the same flavor results. Most grocery stores carry both extracts, however, you can usually also find them at speciality cooking stores or online.


Mix together the fresh cranberries, the pecans, and one-half cup of sugar in a medium sized bowl and set aside. Important note: The recipe uses a total of 1 1/2 cups of sugar, 1/2 cup is mixed in with the nuts and cranberries and 1 cup is mixed in with the remaining ingredients.


In a large bowl, whisk together the melted butter, lightly beaten eggs, one cup of sugar, almond extract, orange extract and salt until well blended. Fold in the flour using a spatula until no streaks of flour remain.


Add in the cranberry, nut and sugar mixture to the batter. Carefully blend together with a wooden spoon or spatula. The batter should be very thick.


Scrape the batter into a glass or ceramic nine inch pie plate very generously buttered. Place on a baking sheet in a pre-heated 350 degree oven. Baking time on the original recipe was 45 minutes, however, I have found that the baking time is often closer to 60 minutes. The pie is done when the top is a light brown, some of the cranberries have burst, and it pulls away slightly from the side of the pie plate. Serve the Nantucket Cranberry Pie at room temperature (so you can make it early in the day and lightly cover).


In this updated version of the recipe, I have added an Orange Flavored Whipped Cream. Why I never served the pie this way before is anyone's guess. But I know now I will never ever serve it any other way.


When I lived out east I used to make this Nantucket Cranberry Pie often. During the fall, when cranberries were in abundance, I would often make it for friends visiting. Like me, they too were surprised at its' deliciousness and texture. This bit crunchy on the edges and softer in the center is pie heaven. More often than not, they would request the recipe. Needless to say, I was more than happy to share it. 

Recipe (updated October 2019)
Nantucket Cranberry Pie (slight modification to the Nantucket Cranberry Pie recipe created by Will Hotham in the "Home Port Cookbook: Beloved Recipes from Martha's Vineyard")
Serves 8

Ingredients
Pie
2 generous cups (8 ounces, 227g) fresh cranberries
1/2 cup (2 1/4 ounces, 64g) pecan halves, toasted and chopped
1 1/2 cups (300g) granulated sugar, divided
3/4 cup (12 Tablespoons-170g)) unsalted butter, melted and cooled slightly
1 cup (130g) all-purpose flour
2 large eggs, room temperature, lightly beaten
1 teaspoon almond extract (recommend Nielsen-Massey Pure Almond Extract)
1 teaspoon orange extract
1/4 teaspoon sea salt or kosher salt.

Orange Flavored Whipped Cream 
8 ounces heavy whipping cream
2 Tablespoons confectionary sugar
1/4 teaspoon orange extract
Orange zest

Directions
1. Preheat oven to 350 degrees (F). Generously butter a 9 inch glass or ceramic pie plate. Set aside.
2. In a medium sized bowl, combine cranberries, pecans and 1/2 cup granulated sugar. Mix and set aside.
3. In a large bowl, whisk together the melted butter, eggs, remaining one cup sugar, almond extract, orange extract, and salt until well-blended. Fold in the flour until thoroughly combined.
4. Add the cranberry/nut/sugar mixture and fold to combine both mixtures.  Note: The batter will have a thick consistency.
5. Scrape batter into a 9 inch glass or ceramic pie plate. Bake for 50 to 60 minutes, rotating the pan midway through the baking process, until the pie is lightly browned, some of the cranberries have burst and the pie pulls very slightly from the edges. Err on the side of baking slightly longer as this is a very dense pie. (Note: My baking time tends to be closer to 60 minutes but I start checking at 50 minutes.)
6. Allow to cool to room temperature before serving. 
7. In a medium sized bowl, whip the cream, confectionary sugar, and orange extract until semi-firm peaks form. 
8. Serve the pie with the whipped cream sprinkled with some orange zest.

Notes: (1) To toast the pecans, preheat oven to 350 degrees (F). Lay pecans flat on a baking dish. Bake for 8-9 minutes. Let cool slightly before chopping. (2) Leftover pie should be covered and either placed in the refrigerator or can be left out. If refrigerated, bring to room temperature before serving or enjoy chilled.

The first time I traveled to Nantucket I felt a sense of the island's history instantly after I got off the ferry. Or maybe what I was feeling could better be described as an aura. One I cannot fully explain. Certainly I had never experienced such a feeling in any of my prior travels. Needless to say Nantucket left a permanent imprint on me. Whatever it was that I felt, I thought that if I were on a ship in the 1600s and the first sighting of land was Nantucket, I wouldn't have wanted to travel any further. This would have been the end of the journey for me. Most likely I would have become one of those who would 'never have left the island'. While the landscape has changed over the past four hundred plus years, I have no doubt it has always been a compelling, beautiful place. From the original cobblestones in the center of town; to the uniqueness of each of the beaches; to the architecture of the buildings and homes; to the landscape; to its' history; it is without a doubt one of my most favorite travel destinations on the east coast.

Before I traveled to Nantucket, I had taken ferries to both Block Island and Martha's Vineyard. Each time I got on a ferry all I could think of was Nathaniel Philbrick's book "In the Heart of the Sea: The Tragedy of the Whaleship Essex". More specifically, I couldn't help but worry about the possibility of whales bumping the ferry and me being thrown into the middle of the ocean (an example of my very active imagination). In retrospect this unfounded fear of mine might have been just a little on the dramatic side, however, I had just read the book for the first time a few weeks before getting on a ferry that 'crossed the ocean' and so unfriendly whales were fresh on my mind. But nothing I had ever read or seen before prepared me for the sheer beauty of Nantucket. I have been known to weep over taking in nature's beauty. Being on Nantucket and hiking in the Rocky Mountains each for the first time just might have brought tears to my eyes. But I will let your active imagination decide whether or not tears were actually shed.