Swedish Pancakes

Watching the Aurora Borealis (aka Northern Lights) segment on my favorite Sunday morning television show this past weekend reminded me how energizing and emotionally overwhelming it can be to take in and capture nature's beauty. Like it was yesterday, I can still recall how the up-close experience of seeing and feeling the majesticness of mountains on my very first trip to Rocky Mountain National Park literally caused me to weep. The beauty of the sky, mountains, and surrounding landscape combined with the energy emanating from the mountains was more than just one of life's memorable moments, it changed something for and in me. This first trip to Colorado turned into an annual trek. Not only to capture as much of the landscape as possible with my camera (am trying to find an inner Ansel Adams) but to find some solace as well as escape from the stressful chaos of my life. As perplexing and worrisome my solo trips were to some of my friends (sometimes with good cause), I almost always experienced a sense of calm and fearlessness when in the midst of nature's beauty. Retrospectively though, I wished a little more common sense and caution was operating before I made the knuckle-clenching drive from Leadville to Aspen on a sudden, dramatic shift in the weather day. One causing snowy, icy, and treacherous driving conditions on Independence Pass. For a little more than an hour I failed to appreciate the splendiferousness of the mountains while trying to hold back the tears.

Getting energized through the consumption of carbohydrates isn't exactly the same kind of energy one experiences from a hike in or a drive through the mountains. Because when one lives in the flat lands of the midwest the only kinds of mountains in existence are the imaginary ones created by squinting one's eyes on days when the sky is filled with those large, billowy Cumulus clouds (yes, I have a very active imagination). Needing to energize my body after a pre 5K race run with my running group on Saturday, I was craving a plate of pancakes. Not my favorite buttermilk pancakes, but Swedish pancakes sprinkled with confectionary sugar and served with some butter and lingonberry jam. My cravings can sometimes very specific.

Traditionally considered a dessert, Swedish pancakes (Pannkakor) have been around since the middle ages. The Swedish tradition of serving the pancakes with pea soup for dinner on Thursdays traces back to a time long ago when Sweden was largely Catholic due to Danish influence. Considered a hearty meal, it was intended to stave off any of the anticipated Friday fasting hunger. While the Thursday pea soup and Swedish pancakes meal custom remains a part of the culture, today the large, thin, crepe-like pancake has evolved into a breakfast or lunch main dish. One you can savor on any day or should your little heart desire, every day of the week.

When I was very young my maternal grandmother once told me there was some Swedish heritage in my genealogy. However, this did not manifest itself in the celebration of any Swedish customs or the handing down of any Swedish family recipes (not even the Swedish meatballs we ate growing up). Other than having one of my best friend's 'super secret can't ever share or risk life and limb' recipe for Glogg, I have not been fortunate enough to be the recipient of any other traditional, family Swedish recipes. As in most cultures, there are multiple versions of recipes for the same foods. Without the benefit of a family recipe for Swedish pancakes, I had no choice but to try to find the 'best' one out there. Or at least one that tasted as close to the Swedish pancakes I had recently had in the north woods of Wisconsin. It can be sometimes hard to 'trust' a recipe one finds in a cookbook, food magazine, or on the internet, but when I rediscovered the Swedish Pancake recipe shared in Cook's Country magazine I had faith this could be the 'one' worthy enough to be described as one of the 'best'. However, there were two ingredients listed in the recipe I thought would cause anyone growing up 'Swedish' to immediately gasp and declare it as being devoid of any authenticity. Club soda or instant flour (Wondra) were probably not in existence in the middle ages.

But had they been, maybe Swedish Pancakes would have become embraced as a main course (breakfast, lunch or dinner) centuries earlier. However, I can't imagine the early version of the recipe could have been as buttery, silky or as addictively delicious as the Cook's Country version.

The batter for these Swedish pancakes does not need to rest several hours or even overnight. Instead any craving you have for them can be almost instantly gratified (and for some things I skew more to the instant versus delayed gratification end of the spectrum).

Whether you are using either a 9 or 10 inch cast iron or non-stick skillet, the pan needs to be hot and butter needs to be added to the pan each time you make a pancake. Swirling a generous third of a cup of batter into the hot, buttered pan helps to create a perfectly round, even in thickness pancake. The cooking time for each pancake is approximately 1-2 minutes (one minute per side).

The cooked pancakes can be stacked on one another and kept warm in a preheated 200 degree oven. This is critical as it will take at least 20 minutes to make all of these pancakes. To prevent the pancakes from sticking together, lightly dust with confectionary sugar. When serving the Swedish pancakes, I like folding before plating them, however, many roll them 'crepe-style'. Note: Any leftover pancakes can be covered, stored in the refrigerator, and reheated in the microwave.

The fearlessness I experienced when making the Swedish Pancake recipe from the Cook's Country magazine was rewarded well beyond my (high) expectations. They were as good as, if not better than, the ones I recently had. Think I may have just found the perfect long run reward food, although, I wouldn't want to limit the making of these Swedish pancakes to an activity, event or even to a day. Now that I have the perfect recipes for Glogg and Swedish pancakes, I need to start looking for that 'perfect' Swedish meatball recipe so I begin to channel some of that Swedish heritage I supposedly have.

Recipe

Swedish Pancakes (slight adaptation of Cook's Country Swedish Pancakes recipe, October 2010)

Ingredients

2 cups instant flour (recommend Wondra)

1/4 cup granulated sugar

1 teaspoon kosher salt

1 1/2 cups half and half

1 1/2 cups club soda, room temperature

2 large eggs, plus 2 egg yolks, lightly beaten, room temperature

4 Tablespoons unsalted butter, melted and slightly cooled

Additional butter for cooking 

Confectionary sugar for dusting

Ligonberries for serving

Directions

1. Preheat oven to 200 degrees (F). Line a baking sheet with parchment paper and set aside.

2. Combine flour, sugar and salt in a large bowl.

3. Combine the half and half, club soda, lightly beaten eggs and four tablespoons of melted butter until just blended. 

4. Slowly whisk the liquid ingredients into the dry ingredients until the flour mixture is smooth.

5. Pour or brush two teaspoons of melted butter onto the hot skillet (be careful to not let butter brown or burn), and immediately pour a generous 1/3 cup of batter into the skillet, tilting pan to evenly coat bottom of pan. Cook until lightly golden, approximately 1-2 minutes per side.

6. Transfer cooked pancakes to baking sheet and place in preheated oven or transfer to a plate and cover tightly with aluminum foil. Note: Lightly sprinkle confectionary sugar over each pancake before stacking.

7. Serve folded or rolled along with sides of room temperature butter and lingonberry jam.

Everything Chicken Puffs

I have a certain amount of skepticism any time I see one of those retro, nostalgic recipes posted on social media. Having succumbed to the belief that nothing can compare to that 'made from scratch' taste, I am often hesitant to make recipes calling for the use of 'pre-made' ingredients. This probably has something to do with having had way too many tuna fish casseroles made with a can of cream of mushroom soup and topped with crushed potato chips in my youth than anything else. Eating too much of anything can sometimes leave lasting, sometimes illogical impressions on one's palate. But after reading through Christina Tosi's new cookbook, Milk Bar Life: Recipes and Stories, I was inspired to revisit what had been my admittedly limiting view of food. Although I still don't think I could ever eat another one of those tuna fish casseroles from my youth again.

Amongst the many of her 'low-brow' not alot of fuss recipes in the book catching my attention was the Chicken Puffs. Most anything made with bread almost always draws me in. When you add cream cheese and chicken, well, all I will say is that you would have to drag me away from trying it.

I took some liberties with her recipe. Including roasted garlic powder into the filling mixture and finishing it with a mixture of spices instead of seasoned bread crumbs. After one bite of a warm Everything Chicken Puff, I wondered where they had been all my life. In looking through hundreds of those community cookbooks over the years, how was it that I had missed this 'vintage' recipe? I don't know how to play bunco, but these Everything Chicken Puffs make me want to learn how and host one. They make me want to have a Mad Men binge watching party. They make me want to have gathering for reason other than to serve them.

One of the best things Sam's Club and Costco offer are their rotisserie chickens. While they cost less than five dollars I don't know if anyone has ever been able to leave buying only a chicken. If I am lucky I can get out of there spending less than a hundred dollars. But in spite of all of the distractions one must deal with as you walk to the back of the store to pick up a chicken, they are really the most meaty and flavorful of all of the rotisserie chickens.

What is not to love about green onions? But feel free to use minced onions or shallots instead.

Ever since having an everything bagel (with cream cheese and lox) a few weeks ago, I was reminded how much flavor sesame seeds, sea salt, poppy seeds and onion flakes can impart on anything bread-like. Christina Tosi's recipe calls for rolling the puffs in seasoned bread crumbs, however, the use of 'everything' spices works even better.

The filling is chopped chicken, softened cream cheese, kosher salt, pepper and some roasted garlic powder. I used the meat from both a chicken breast and chicken leg/thigh. If I wasn't using a rotisserie chicken, I might consider grilling or baking some chicken thighs as I love the flavor of dark meat more than white meat. But honestly, buying a pre-baked chicken is what makes this dish quick and easy to assemble.

Depending on which size crescent rolls used, you will have appetizer or meal sized puffs. In the recipe below, there is enough filling for two tubes of crescent rolls. After dividing the filling evenly on each of the crescent triangles, simply roll them up, pinching the sides to ensure the filling doesn't spill out during baking.

Each of the rolled puffs is dipped into the 'everything' spice mixture and placed on a parchment paper lined baking sheet. Note: The puffs can be assembled several hours ahead and refrigerated until ready to bake.

The puffs were baked in a pre-heated 350 degree (F) oven. My baking time (using the grand size crescents) was somewhere between 18-20 minutes. Begin checking on them at the 15 minute mark.

These Everything Chicken Puffs are best when served 'just out of the oven'. They are insanely delicious. You really do have to make them. If you too have been suffering from the preconceived notions that semi-homemade food isn't really good food, let alone great food, these puff might change them. They did for me.

Recipe

Everything Chicken Puffs (inspired by Christina Tosi's recipe in Milk Bar Life: Recipes and Stories)

Ingredients

12 ounces cooked chicken, chopped (light and dark meats)

8 ounces cream cheese, room temperature

1/2 cup sliced green onions (white and green parts)

1/2 teaspoon black pepper

1 teaspoon kosher salt

1 teaspoon roasted garlic powder (or garlic powder)

2 tubes of refrigerated crescent rolls (regular or giant size)

Topping

4 teaspoons onion flakes

2 teaspoons sea salt

4 teaspoons poppy seeds

4 teaspoons sesame seeds

Directions

1. Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Line baking sheets with parchment paper and set aside.

2. Mix chicken, cream cheese, salt, pepper and garlic powder in a medium sized bowl.

3. Unroll crescent rolls, divide into pre-cut triangles. Divide chicken mixture evenly amongst the 16 pieces of dough. 

4. Wrap up dough around chicken, pinching sides to seal seams, and shape into crescents.

5. Dip or roll crescents into topping mixture. Place on baking sheets.

6. Bake 15-18 minutes or until golden brown.

7. Serve immediately.

Notes: Use a store-bought roasted chicken. Can be prepared early in the day and baked when ready to serve. Regular size crescent rolls will make appetizer size puffs, while the large/giant sized rolls will create meal portion puffs. If you don't want an 'everything' spice finish, use one cup of seasoned Italian bread crumbs.

Strawberry Buttermilk Cake

For the first time ever I completely lost a blog post that I had spent hours on. Ugh! Part of me wants to scream, part of me wants to weep uncontrollably, and yet another (superstitious) part of me wonders if any day with a 13 in it is an unlucky day. If you have ever put a significant amount of time, energy and what you believed was creativity into something, it can be more than a little disheartening to begin again. In what seems like one of life's rather insignificant miseries, I feel compelled to allow myself to have a certain amount of unhealthy wallowing. Sometimes a small amount of 'OMG, I can't believe this is happening' can be soul soothing and provide enough energy to help with 'getting over it', regrouping and starting all over again. Okay, one more 'Ugh'. 

Think I am now taking this blog posting in a completely different direction than the one that is seemingly lost in blog cyberspace. I just can't bring myself to trying to recreate what was probably one of the best blog postings ever to appear here (oh, the things one says when trying to recover from or remain in a state of denial over making a mistake). Am I am inferring my goal here is now to write something rather mediocre or just good enough? Maybe, maybe not. Remember I am coming from the place of a wounded bird (still wallowing) and am now filled with all sorts of self-doubt on my ability to construct anything having any clarity, coherence, or even a slight bit of cleverness. Maybe it was serendipitous I had made the Strawberry Buttermilk Cake this past weekend as there remains a sliver of a piece left in the refrigerator. Cake seems to have the magical powers of making one feel better. Under the weather, eat cake. Feeling sorry for yourself, eat cake. Having a bad day, eat cake. Being technically challenged, eat cake. Isn't this one of life's absolute truths? Or is it some invented rationale intended to ensure cake eating should always be a guilt-free pleasure? Invented or not, I am buying it. So before I allow myself the indulgence of and the euphoria that comes with eating a piece of cake, especially a piece of this Strawberry Buttermilk Cake, I feel compelled to first get the endorphin rush that comes with achieving a goal or two. Those goals being sharing an incredible cake recipe and successfully post to the blog today. I shall remain silent as to which of those is more important.

While it is technically not yet strawberry season, the strawberries at the grocery store this past weekend looked and tasted June ripened perfect.

Small and medium sized strawberries seem to have more flavor and taste sweeter to me, particularly early in the season. These lived up to that perception.

The recipe calls for one pound of strawberries, halved and hulled. I didn't use a full pound for this cake. Maybe because they were smaller and took up more space on top of the cake batter. But next time I make this cake (and there will be multiple next times), I will worry less about the finished look of the cake and squeeze as many of the strawberries on top as I can. Why? Because the slow and low baking of the strawberries makes them even sweeter and more delicious than you would think possible.

A batter made of unsalted butter, sugar, an egg, buttermilk, vanilla, sea salt, flour, and baking powder is made in a standing mixer with a paddle attachment.

The baking time for this cake may seem exceptionally long, but the end result is a moist, tender crumb, crispy edged cake. For the first 10 minutes the cake bakes in a pre-heated 350 degree oven. The temperature is then reduced to 325 degrees and it continues to bake for an additional 50-60 minutes (mine baked for an additional 55 minutes) or until golden and a cake tester comes out clean when inserted in the center of the cake.

Cooled on a wire rack the cake is dusted with confectionary sugar. I didn't actually wait until the cake came to 'room temperature' before dusting it because I couldn't wait to taste it.

Having eaten this cake slightly warm, at room temperature, and chilled in the refrigerator, I have to honestly say I loved this cake warm and slightly chilled best. This Strawberry Buttermilk Cake may be one of the best strawberry cakes I have ever eaten. Seriously.

The dusting of the confectionary sugar is all this cake needs, but some freshly lightly sweetened whipped cream is a perfect compliment. Akin to adding pearls to simple black dress, the addition of whipped cream turns this kind of rusting looking cake into one dinner party worthy. Without it, the cake can also be served at breakfast or as an afternoon snack. Whether you are celebrating an event or accomplishment, trying to lift up someone's spirits, turn an unlucky day into a lucky day, or you don't really need a reason, make this Strawberry Buttermilk Cake. Simple never tasted so good. And of, if by chance any of you come across my original lost Strawberry Buttermilk Cake posting, the one where I shared with you what it felt like to again experience a momentary 'zen-like' state during a run this past weekend, to have all of the 'white noise' silenced in my head, and to no longer feel any angst about being the 'slow' runner in my group, well if you were on the brink of starting to or returning to run, it might just the push you need and another reason to eat cake.

Recipe
Strawberry Buttermilk Cake (recipe from the newly released cookbook Back in the Day Bakery Made with Love: More than 100 Recipes and Make it Yourself Projects to Create and Share by Cheryl Day and Griffith Day)

Ingredients
1 1/2 cups all-purpose flour
1 1/2 teaspoons baking powder
1/2 teaspoon fine sea salt
6 Tablespoons unsalted butter, room temperature
1 cup granulated sugar
1 large egg, room temperature
1/2 cup buttermilk
1 teaspoon vanilla
1 pound fresh strawberries, hulled and halved 
Confectionary sugar for dusting
Optional: Freshly whipped cream

Directions
1. Preheat oven to 350 degrees (F). Lightly butter a 9 inch deep dish pie plate and set aside.
2. Sift together the flour, baking powder and sea salt. Set aside.
3. In a standing mixer fitted with a paddle attachment, cream together the butter and sugar until light and fluffy (approximately 3-5 minutes).
4. Add egg, buttermilk and vanilla, blending until combined (mixture will seem curdled, but not to worry).
5. On low speed add the dry, sifted ingredients, mixing until fully blended. Mixture should be smooth, but do not over mix.
6. Scrape the batter (it will be thick), into the prepared pie plate. Smooth top with an offset spatula.
7. Place cut strawberries, cut side down, in concentric circles on top of the batter. Tap the entire dish lightly to remove any air bubbles.
8. Bake at 350 degrees for 10 minutes, reduce oven temperature to 325 degrees (F) and bake for additional 50-60 minutes (my bake time was 55 additional minutes) until golden on the edges and a cake tester comes out clean inserted into the center of the cake.
9. Remove from oven and place on a cooling rack.
10. Dust the slightly cooled or completely cooled cake with confectionary sugar and serve. 
Optional: Serve cake with freshly whipped cream and garnish with additional strawberries.
Note: Cake can be store in an airtight container in the refrigerator for up to 2 days (if it lasts that long).

Baguettes

"Good bread is the most fundamentally satisfying of all foods; and good bread with fresh butter, the greatest of feasts." (James Beard) Not less than two weeks ago one of my friends suggested I make lobster roll buns for the blog. Catching me in one of those 'bread is not easy to make' moments of self-doubt, my reaction was less than enthusiastic. Since moving back from the east coast, life now means not having a lobster roll at least once a week (once you get spoiled with east coast lobster rolls, not having easy access to them is a genuine hardship). Actually it means hardly ever having a lobster roll (they are just not the same here). In spite of my bread making reticence and lobster roll remorse, the 'bread seed' was planted. And as fate would have it, I came across a recipe for baguettes several days later (one taking less than two hours from start to finish). Much to my surprise the baguettes looked relatively simple to make. Suddenly I went from being a bread making nay-sayer to eagerly jumping on the bread making bandwagon.

"The smell of good bread baking like the sound of lightly flowing water, is indescribable in its evocation of innocence and delight." (M.F.K. Fischer) If the scent of bread baking in the oven isn't enough to help you overcome any of your founded or unfounded bread making fears, one taste of homemade warm bread should be enough to give you the confidence to take on the challenge. Scented candles or vases filled with lilacs are not anywhere near as intoxicating as the aroma of baking bread. Not to mention they aren't even edible.

The quality of ingredients always, always make a difference to a sweet or savory dish. Based on years of baking experience I have come to the self-appointed 'not all all-purpose flours are created equal' spokesperson. My current all-purpose flour favorite is made by King Arthur. The old adage 'you get what you pay for' is true more often than not. When making these baguettes, give this flour a try. If you aren't already using it, I promise you will not be disappointed.

The first key to successfully making bread is having yeast that actually activates when combined with warm (115 degrees F) water. If the mixture becomes bubbly and frothy your yeast is good. If not, the water wasn't warm enough or too warm or the yeast wasn't good. Should your yeast 'starter' not get off to a good start, you will need to start all over. For these baguettes, the yeast/water mixture also includes two tablespoons of honey. After waiting at least 5 minutes or up to 10 minutes, the all-purpose flour, olive oil, salt and additional water is added. Stirring or whipping the mixture together allows the gluten to develop. Once the mixed together, lightly knead the dough until smooth.

The second key step in the process is allowing the dough to rest and rise (the fermentation stage). Cover the bowl with plastic wrap (placing a towel or cloth on top is optional) and put in a warm, draft free place. The dough should double in size in less than hour (about 40-45 minutes).

After the dough has risen, turn it out on a lightly floured surface and cut into 4 or 5 pieces. For longer baguettes cut the dough into 4 pieces and roll into your desired length. Remember, your baking sheet or bread pan will determine the length of your baguette. The rolled out, shaped baguettes need to rest (the proofing phase) for 25 minutes before baking. Note: Make several diagonal cuts on top of each baguette before allowing to proof.

At the time I made these baguettes, I did not have a baguette pan. Of course I felt compelled to buy one. My obsession for a baguette pan does not need to your obsession. As long as you have a heavy baking sheet, your baguettes should bake up beautifully. However, if making 5 smaller baguettes, divide the rolled baguettes between two baking sheets.

Before placing the baguettes in preheated 450 degree (F) oven, lightly spritz with water. In 18-20 minutes your baguettes should be golden brown and completely baked. Cool the baked bread on a wire rack (that is, if you can resist the urge to cut into one of the warm baguettes as soon as they come out of the oven).

Most bread recipes list preheating the oven as one of the steps in their directions. Have you ever wondered why no one has ever thought to add 'bring some really great butter to room temperature' to the directions? Think the time has come for someone to take care of that glaring omission? Okay, I will volunteer. 

In addition to butter, these baguettes are great for dipping into olive oil, for serving with cheese, for making crostini and topping with a creamy liver pate, for topping with cheese on a bowl of french onion soup, for making crostini, for making roasted red pepper and goat cheese sandwiches, for mopping up the sauce in a bowl of steamed mussels. In other words, baguettes have unlimited possibilities. As long as you have an oven, a bowl, some measuring cups and baking sheet, you can make them anywhere, anytime (and if you pack the ingredients in your suitcase, you can make them whether you are staying in a cabin in the woods or a house at the beach). These homemade baguettes will have you thinking twice about spending four or five dollars for single loaf. And the priceless satisfaction that comes with making your own bread will give you an adrenal rush as addictive as the aroma of homemade bread baking in the oven. 

Recipe

Baguette (recipe shared in the Spring (2015) issue of the Sweet Paul magazine)

Ingredients

1 1/2 Tablespoons dry active yeast

2 Tablespoons honey

1 1/2 cups warm water, divided

3 1/2 cups all-purpose flour (recommend King Arthur flour)

3 Tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

2 teaspoons Kosher salt

Directions

1. Mix yeast, honey and 1/2 warm (115 degrees) water in a large bow. Let sit for 5 minutes or until mixture becomes frothy. If there is no frothiness, the yeast is inactive and you need to begin again.

2. Add remaining 1 cup warm water, flour, oil and salt. Mix until combined. Lightly knead until the dough is smooth.

3. Place dough back in bowl, cover with plastic and towel, put bowl in a warm place and allow to double in size (approximately 40 minutes).

4.Remove dough from bowl and place on a floured surface. Divide dough into 4 or 5 equal parts. Roll each part out into a long baguette.

5. Preheat oven to 450 degrees (F). Bring some good butter to room temperature.

6. Place rolled dough on either a lightly oiled baking pan or in a bread pan. Using a sharp knife, make several slits along the top of each baguette.

7. Let baguettes rest for 25 minutes.

8. Lightly spray each baguette with water before placing in the oven. Bake until golden, approximately 18-20 minutes. Note: Original recipe had a baking time of 15-18 minutes, however, mine were not fully baked until the 20 minute mark.

9. Cool on wire rack. Serve warm or room temperature.

A sheep farm in northern Wisconsin.