Wednesday, July 1, 2015

Tomato, Caramelized Onions, and Goat Cheese Tart


"Whatever we are waiting for-peace of mind, contentment, grace, the inner awareness of simple abundance-it will surely come to us, but only when we are ready to receive it with an open and grateful heart." (Sarah Ban Breathnach) This past weekend there was a gathering of some of my sorority sisters, some of whom I had not seen since graduating from college all those, too many to admit to, decades ago. In spite of time, distance and life experience, the connections made all of those years ago still remained. That became even more apparent as everyone shared an unedited, unfiltered Reader's Digest version of their lives. There were so many inspirational stories of resilience, uncanny coincidence, miracles, and perseverance.  And then there was a moment during all of this candid sharing when we all took a momentary pause. It came when one of our sorority sisters said how grateful she was for having a life filled with so much abundance. Those words came from someone not having what might be described as a 'privileged' life, but rather one with more than one's fair share of life changes and loss. The reminder that the true essence of abundance, that feeling of overflowing fullness, is something experienced by looking inward, was not to be lost on any of us. And most certainly not on me.

If there was a single word to describe the girls who all pledged PiPhis at the University of Illinois way back when it would have been diverse. While that may have been true, one did not have spend much time in the 'house' to see there were some 'not first impression, less immediately visible common character traits' better defining us all. The traits of compassion, determination, and strength were just a few them. In retrospect, those may been the qualities partly responsible ensuring there would be a timeless bond between all of us, regardless of the different paths each of our lives would take.


There was nothing particularly noteworthy about the food served in the sorority house. Instead it was the rituals associated with the meals (along with the waiters) that made meal time memorable. Nowadays, I aspire to have any gathering, where food is involved, to be unforgettable (in the best of ways of course). My childhood best friend recently reminded me of one of Ina Garten's timeless Tomato and Goat Cheese Tart recipe. The partial list of ingredients (goat cheese, parmesan cheese, fresh tomatoes, basil, thyme, caramelized onions and puff pastry) was enough to put this on the 'must make' list. But then she sent me a photo of a tart she had made. The tart went from the 'must make' list to the 'must make now' list.  


Goat cheese and Parmigiano-Reggiano are two of my refrigerator staples. The herbs grown in my rather small herb container garden always includes thyme and basil. But the 'now' ended up being almost a week later as I wanted to pick up the tomatoes and onions from the farmer's market. Whenever making a recipe involving tomatoes, especially one where they are visible in the finished dish, I like using a combination of red, yellow and/or heirloom tomatoes. 


Whenever caramelized onions are called for, I have a tendency to use either sweet yellow or Vidalia onions. 


Very few ingredients take a dish from ordinary to out of this world quite like caramelized onions. The intense flavor resulting from the slow process of cooking onions in extra-virgin olive oil alone is enough to make a bite of any savory dish memorable. 


One of the things from making the Tomato Crostata with Honey Thyme Glaze last year was the importance of allowing sliced tomatoes to rest for awhile. The 1/4 inch thick slices of tomatoes are placed on a baking sheet lined with paper towels and sprinkled very lightly with kosher salt. This ensures that the pastry underneath does not become 'too wet' from the juices released from the tomatoes during the baking process.


In Ina's original recipe she cut sheets of puff pastry into 6 inch circles. That works for individual presentations, however, for larger gatherings I like to serve larger round or rectangular shaped tarts. Both Pepperidge Farm and Dufour make puff pastry. Serious Eats did a taste test between the two. Although there was an ever so slight shade of difference between the two, tasters gave Dufour the edge for its pronounced butter-forward flavor and light, flaky texture. Either one will work with this tart, but if you get the chance, try the Dufour. 


The first layer of flavor on the puffed pastry is grated Parmigiano-Reggiano. Second comes the caramelized onions. Subsequent layers include the goat cheese, tomatoes, shards of Parmigiano-Reggiano, extra-virgin olive oil, and julienned basil. 


In a preheated 425 degree oven the Tomato, Caramelized Onions and Goat Cheese Tart bakes for 25-30 minutes (recommend checking at 20 minutes) until the puff pastry is golden brown.

This tart is delicious eaten hot, warm and even at room temperature. With tomatoes now in abundance, it is definitely destined to be one of those 'memorable' dishes, one perfect for either a casual or fancy gathering. You need to serve this at your next gathering. You really do. 

Recipe
Tomato, Caramelized Onions and Goat Cheese Tart (slight adaptation to Ina Garten's Tomato and Goat Cheese Tart recipe from the Barefoot Contessa Back to Basics: Fabulous Flavor from Simple Ingredients Cookbook)

Ingredients
14 ounce package of puff pastry (recommend DuFour Puff Pastry), thawed in accordance with package directions
4 cups thinly sliced sweet onions (approximately 3 medium sized or 2 large onions)
3-4 large garlic cloves, cut into thin slivers
3 Tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for brushing tomatoes
Sea salt, kosher salt and black pepper
3 Tablespoons dry white wine
2 teaspoons fresh thyme leaves, minced
1/2 cup freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano, plus 2 ounces shaved with a grater/vegetable peeler
4-5 ounces goat cheese or 4 ounces garlic and herb goat cheese (recommend Montrachet)
3-4 large (yellow and red) tomatoes, cut into 1/4 inch thick slices (approximately 4 slices per tomato)
3 Tablespoons julienned basil leaves

Directions
1. On a lightly floured surface, unfold the puff pastry. Roll lightly to smooth seams, cut in half (approximately 11"x8" rectangles). Transfer to a sheet pan lined with parchment paper. Return to refrigerator to keep chilled until ready to use.
2. Cut tomatoes into 1/4" thick slices, place on a baking sheet lined with paper towels and sprinkle very lightly with kosher salt. Allow to set for 30-60 minutes.
3. In a large skillet, heat 3 Tablespoons of extra-virgin olive oil over medium to low heat. Add onions and garlic. Sauté until onions are limp and almost no moisture remains in the skillet (approximately 15-20 minutes). Stir frequently.
4. Add 1/2 teaspoon sea salt, 1/4 teaspoons black pepper, 3 Tablespoons white wine, and 2 teaspoons minced thyme. Continue to cook for an additional 10-15 minutes or until onions are lightly browned. Remove from heat and set aside.
5. Remove sheet pan from the refrigerator. Using a sharp paring knife, score a 1/2 inch wide border around each pastry rectangle (be careful not to cut all the way through the puff pastry). Prick the pastry inside the score lines with a fork.
6. Sprinkle the grated parmesan cheese evenly between the two rectangles, staying within the scored border.
7. Evenly divide the caramelized onion/garlic mixture over the rectangles.
8. Evenly divide the goat cheese over the top of the onions.
9. Arrange slices of tomatoes on top of the goat cheese, staying within the scored border.
10. Brush the top of the tomatoes with extra-virgin olive oil, sprinkle with kosher salt, pepper and julienned basil. Divide shards of parmesan cheese evenly over both tarts.
11. Return to refrigerator for 15 minutes before placing in the oven.
12. Preheat oven to 425 degrees.
13. Place baking sheet in oven and bake for 25-30 minutes, or until the pastry is golden brown. Remove from oven.
14. Transfer to a large cutting board or platter. Cut into slices. Serve hot, warm or room temperature.



Monday, June 29, 2015

Banana Cupcakes with Peanut Butter Frosting


A couple of weeks ago my sister had a going away dinner for her son, my nephew (aka the recent college graduate) who was moving to Pennsylvania to begin his new job. Dessert was going to be Banana Cupcakes with Peanut Butter Frosting. As is often the case when my sister makes a dessert, I sometimes think 'hmmm, where does she find these interesting amalgamation of flavors?' (the answer is Epicurious). Sure I knew the Banana and Peanut Butter combination in the form of a sandwich had been made famous by and attributed to Elvis, but in a cupcake? At some point I probably need to stop second guessing my younger sister and put an end, or at least allow for a temporary reprieve, to some of the sibling rivalries that have permeated our relationship over the years. Who knew this long over due epiphany would come from a bite of the Banana Cupcakes with Peanut Butter Frosting.


I should have taken more than a bite of these cupcakes. Fortunately I had some bananas ripening at home. Delayed gratification is better than no gratification at all. 

If I were to do one thing differently the next time I make the Banana Cupcakes with Peanut Butter Frosting it would be to use a cupcake pan and paper liners. As much as I love the look of these stand alone paper cupcake cups, the baking time is slightly longer and they make it a little harder to eat the cupcake. These are the kind of cupcakes you want to be able to tear into quickly and easily.


The riper the bananas the deeper, the better the flavor. 


Depending on the size of your bananas, you will need either 2 (really large) or 3 (medium) in order to get one cup of mashed bananas.  


Like most cake recipes, wet and dry ingredients are alternately added to the butter/sugar base. 


I have watched more than enough episodes of 'Cupcake Wars' to know using an ice cream scoop creates uniform sized (aka perfect) cupcakes. Kitchen tools generally fall into three categories: 'don't waste your money', 'nice to have' and 'must have'. In addition to being one of those definite 'must haves', the ice cream scoop makes the portioning of cupcake batter seem effortless.


Quite possibly the best description I could give for the peanut butter frosting is 'wicked'. While not a word one would normally put in the list of culinary adjectives, there are no other words better at giving you a sense of how ambrosial, heavenly, divine, scrumptious, this frosting is. 


How else would one expect cream cheese, butter, creamy peanut butter, confectionary sugar and a pinch of sea salt to taste? 


Using a pastry bag with your favorite tip or simply an offset spatula, the consistency of this frosting could not be more perfect for spreading.


The original recipe for these cupcakes suggested they be topped with chopped lightly salted roasted peanuts,  however, after frosting the cupcakes they seemed to scream 'sprinkle me'!  If you are looking to pay homage to Elvis, top with some crispy, fried bacon. 

Recipe
Banana Cupcakes with Peanut Butter Frosting (An oh so slight adaptation to the Matt Lewis/Renato Poliafito recipe created for Bon Appetit)

Ingredients
Cupcakes
1 1/4 cups all-purpose flour
1 1/2 teaspoons baking powder
1/2 teaspoon baking soda
1/4 teaspoon kosher salt
2 very large ripe bananas or 3 medium (1 cup), peeled and mashed
1/2 cup sour cream
1 1/2 teaspoons vanilla
3/4 cup granulated sugar
1/2 cup (8 Tablespoons) unsalted butter, room temperature
1 large egg, room temperature
1 large egg yolk, from a room temperature egg

Frosting
1 1/2 cups confectionary sugar, sifted
8 ounces cream cheese, room temperature
1/2 cup (8 Tablespoons) unsalted butter, room temperature
1/2 cup smooth, creamy peanut butter, recommend JIF (do not use old-fashioned or freshly ground)
pinch of sea salt
Optional: Chocolate sprinkles, crispy fried bacon, chopped lightly salted roasted peanuts, etc.

Directions
Cupcakes
1. Preheat oven to 350 degrees (F). Position rack in center of oven. Line a muffin pan with paper liners.
2. In a medium sized bowl, whisk together the all-purpose flour, baking powder, baking soda and salt. Set aside.
3. Mash bananas with a fork until smooth in another bowl. Mix in sour cream and vanilla. Set aside.
4. Using either a standing mixer with a paddle attachment or hand held mixer, beat sugar and butter until light and fluffy (approximately 3 minutes).
5. Add egg and egg yolk and beat until well blended.
6. Beginning with flour mixture, add in 3 additions, alternating with two additions of the banana mixture, beating until blended after each addition.
7. Divide batter equally among the prepared muffin cups using a 1/4 cup ice cream scoop.
8. Bake cupcakes for 20-26 minutes, until lightly browned on top and a cake tester inserted into the center of each comes out clean. Transfer cupcakes to cooling rack and allow to cool completely before frosting. Note: If using standard paper liners, you should have a yield of 12 cupcakes.

Frosting
1. In a medium sized bowl, beat cream cheese, butter and peanut butter until smooth and creamy.
2. Add in sifted confectionary sugar, beat until well blended.
3. Using a pastry bag, pipe frosting onto cupcakes. Or spread frosting using an offset spatula.
4. Serve plain or decorate with chocolate sprinkles or chopped lightly salted roasted peanuts.


Fullersburg Woods (Illinois) shortly after the sunrise.


Thursday, June 25, 2015

Grilled Naan w/ Pancetta, Arugula and Parmesan aka Nancy's Naan


Who does not love pizza? No one. Okay I will reluctantly concede there might be a couple of outliers out there somewhere. Not there aren't multiple places to get some really good pizza, but who does not love a homemade pizza dough but doesn't always have or want to take the time to make it? Me and I would guess there are more than a handful of you out there who feel the same. So what does one do when they have a craving for a 'pizza' but for a myriad of reasons life gets in their dough making way and/or the only dough available at the grocery store is the frozen kind? Well, there is an easy answer to that question. Pick up some pillowy, oven baked, charred Naan (Indian Flatbread). Substituting Naan for pizza dough isn't really a new idea, although it's not one always immediately coming to mind when one has an insatiable craving for pizza (at least in my world). So I was thinking, hasn't the time finally come for (all of) us to think of pizza dough and Naan as being synonymous and interchangeable with one another? An absolute, definite, unwaivering yes! Of course, there are probably those (you know them) who enjoy arguing about anything and everything.


Who does not love a simple recipe, especially one that is likely to receive accolades and/or cause hovering over the dish behavior? Without going too far out on a limb, I am pretty confident 99% of us do. When one of my closest friends (who now lives much too far away from me) shared a recipe from one of her friends (who she met at a nail salon and also happened to have once called the midwest her home), I instantly put it on the 'to definitely make sooner rather than later' list. Although I knew I wanted to change out the salami for crispy, baked pancetta. Not because I don't belong to the salami fan club (unless of course, it's Volpi salami and it is cut almost paper thin), but because I am a card carrying member of the Italian bacon fan club. Even though I made two relatively minor ingredient changes (adding shaved Parmegiano-Reggiano was the other), the Grilled Naan w/ Pancetta, Arugula and Parmesan will be affectionately known as Nancy's Naan. As it only took one bite for me to thank my lucky stars she crossed paths with my friend.


There are probably a million versions of Naan pizza out there, however, this Grilled Naan w/ Pancetta, Arugula and Parmesan should be on everyone's top ten or rather I should say top two list.


All of the ingredients are readily accessible in most grocery stores. The 365 Tandoori Naan from Whole Foods topped the Taster's Choice list several years ago. I bought the 'original' Naan as I wanted the Naan to compliment rather than distract from the flavors of garlic and herbs coming from the Boursin cheese.


When buying pancetta, ask to have it sliced on the thin (but not transparent) side. The baking time for the pancetta will vary based on its' thickness (it could range from 9 to 14 minutes). Before placing in the oven, I sprinkled the pancetta with black pepper and placed it on a parchment paper lined baking sheet. In a preheated 400 degree oven, a baking time of 12 minutes was enough to bring the pancetta to the state of crispiness I wanted. Note: After removing the pancetta from the oven, transfer to a plate lined with paper towels. 


My new Lodge double-sided grill pan has been getting a workout in the last couple of weeks. While the grill of all grills sits out on the deck, the weeks of wet weather here has made this stove top grill pan indispensable. The Naan stays on the grill or grill pan for as long as it takes for grill marks to appear. 


The 'cheese' topping options include either an herbed Boursin cheese or a garlic-herb goat cheese brought to room temperature (the one made by Montchevre would work well) or any other cheese with a garlic/herb flavor that can easily be spread over and slightly melt into the warm, grilled Naan. Generously sprinkle the top of the cheese with the crumbled crispy pancetta.


Lightly dressing the arugula with extra-virgin olive oil and lemon juice not only adds another layer of flavor, it perfectly compliments the peppery taste of the arugula. Generally the ratio of extra-virgin olive oil to fresh squeezed lemon juice is 3 to 1 (Tablespoons). Because I wanted to slightly temper the peppery taste of the baby arugula, I increased the amount of lemon juice to 1 1/2 Tablespoons (2:1 ratio). If a 3:1 ratio of oil to lemon juice gives you the flavor you are looking for, stop there. 

The final layer includes a few sprinkles of sea salt (don't go overboard as the pancetta already adds saltiness) and fresh shavings of Parmigano-Reggiano. Cut into random or uniform slices, arrange on a platter, and serve immediately. The Grilled Naan w/ Pancetta, Arugula and Parmesan is addictive and incredibly mouthwatering served warm, however, it is one of those appetizers (or lunch entrees) equally delicious at room temperature.


Have you been looking for the perfect (as in fast, easy, delicious and beautiful) appetizer for planned or impromptu gatherings, maybe even something new to serve for 4th of July? Your search is over. 

Recipe
Grilled Naan w/ Pancetta, Arugula and Parmesan aka Nancy's Naan (inspired by one of Nancy Linn Goodman's recipes)

Ingredients
4 pieces (12 ounces) Naan (recommend Whole Foods 365 Tandoori Original Naan)
6-8 ounces Boursin Cheese, Montchevre's Garlic-Herb Flavored Goat cheese (softened) or other garlic-herb flavored soft/spreadable cheese
4-6 ounces pancetta, thinly sliced, baked crisp, crumbled into irregular pieces (Note: Original recipe called for bite size pieces of salami)
4 cups of baby arugula
3 Tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
1 - 1 1/2 Tablespoons freshly squeezed lemon juice
sea salt
black pepper
Parmigano-Reggiano, shaved

Directions
1. Preheat oven to 400 degrees. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper. Arrange slices of pancetta sprinkled with pepper in a single layer. Bake until pancetta is crisp (8-14 minutes). Remove from oven, transfer pancetta to a plate lined with a paper towel. Set aside.
2. Mix together extra-virgin olive oil and fresh squeezed lemon juice. Set aside.
3. Grill Naan on an outdoor grill or on an indoor grill pan. Heat until grill marks appear on both sides.
4. Top warm Naan with a generous amount of Boursin cheese, spreading evenly.
5. Crumble crispy pancetta and sprinkle over top of cheese.
6. Drizzle dressing over arugula, tossing until coated. Add dressing coated arugula on top of pancetta layer.
7. Very lightly sprinkle with sea salt and finish with shavings of Parmigano-Reggiano.
8. Cut into slices/pieces. Transfer to a platter and serve.


Sydney & Walda Bestoff Sculpture Garden at the New Orleans Museum of Art (NOMA)


Tuesday, June 23, 2015

Peach Ice Cream


There are some things I don't think I will ever tire or get enough of. Reading great books, seeing the beauty of blooming blue hydrangeas, finding a great shoe sale, watching movies on the big screen, the feeling of butterflies in your stomach, and taking in a beautiful sunset are just some of them. Homemade ice cream has now been added to this ever expanding list of the things causing my heart to race. In the last three weeks, I have been guilty of making more ice cream than I should really be admitting to. So as not to overdose from too much of a good thing, I have taken a (temporary) break from strawberry ice cream and shifted to making peach ice cream this week. Besides, the containers of fresh peaches at this past weekend's farmers market were much to hard to resist.

First brought to the Americas in the 16th century by Spanish explorers, peaches immediately became a prized and expensive indulgence. Although much has changed in the last five centuries, the taste of a perfectly ripe, sweet, juicy, peach still feels like it is an indulgence.


The one significant difference between the peach and strawberry ice cream recipes is the use of both brown sugar and confectionary sugar. Allowing the finely chopped peaches to macerate in light brown sugar deepens the flavor of the ice cream. Two cups of finely chopped peaches added great 'peachy' flavor. For some this would be more than enough. In my world, the peachier the better. Which translates to increasing the amount of chopped peaches to somewhere between 2 1/4 and 2 1/2 cups the next time I make a batch. In a surprising show of restraint, there won't be any more peach ice cream made here until 4th of July weekend.

Some days I prefer eating ice cream plain, needing only a bowl and a spoon. Other days I like it sandwiched between cookies, homemade ones of course. Ginger cookies would pair perfectly with this homemade peach ice cream. If you are looking to fancy it up a bit, drizzle with fresh raspberry sauce and wallah, you have Peach Melba! Not looking to go to any fuss, simply sprinkle with fresh blueberries or blackberries. With all of these options, you might decide a peach ice cream binge isn't necessarily a bad thing.


I am predicting, with a high degree of certainty, a peach ice cream streak could or rather will probably last all summer long, going on the short list of things worthy of obsessing over.

Recipe
Peach Ice Cream

Ingredients
1 cup (240 ml) heavy whipping cream (at least 18% fat)
1 (14 ounce) can of sweetened condensed milk
Approximately 4-5 large peaches, peeled and cut into chunks
1/4 cup (25 g) light brown sugar, firmly packed
1/4 cup (25 g) confectionary sugar, sifted
1/4 teaspoon sea salt
Optional garnishes: Fresh raspberry sauce, homemade ginger cookies, fresh fruit, waffle cones.

Directions
1. Place chunks of peaches into the food processor. Pulse until small bits of peaches remain. Measure 2 to 2 1/2 cups of finely chopped peaches and place in a bowl. Add 1/4 cup of light brown sugar, mixing until sugar dissolves. Set aside.
2. In a standing mixer with a whisk attachment, beat heavy cream until soft peaks form.
3. Gently fold in sweetened condensed milk, sea salt and peach mixture. 
4. Fold in sifted confectionary sugar.
5. Pour mixture into an ice cream container and freeze at least overnight or preferably overnight. 
6. Scoop mixture into serving dishes, waffle cones or sandwich between cookies and serve.
Note: I used the ice cream storage container from Williams-Sonoma. It is the perfect shape and size.


Summer Solstice Sunset