Thursday, June 23, 2016

Cowboy Cookies Revisited


Growing up in the pre-zillion number of television channels and growing number of media broadcasting options era, I used to love watching westerns and western genre television shows. Of course, this would have been back in the black and white versus technicolor days aka the dark ages. From Big Valley to Bonanza to The Virginian to Rawhide, along with a smattering of others (and oh let's not forget Little House on the Prairie), I was completely mesmerized by the good versus evil western frontier stories. Today, my affinity for westerns is no longer satisfied watching only reruns from the 50s, 60s and 70s. In recent years, shows like Deadwood and Hell on Wheels, where the lines between good and evil have been blurred, have become some of my favorite guilty television watching pleasures. And whenever a new 'western' or period movie opens, I wouldn't exactly say I am the first in line to see it, but am definitely in the audience in the opening weekend. No longer are the story and characters the only focus of my attention. Now I am equally attentive to the cinematography, period clothing, and especially the set decoration. Although I am not big on watching the same movie again and again, films like "The Hateful Eight" and "The Revenant" are amongst the exceptions. In revisiting both old and new television shows and movies, my takeaways from them continue to evolve. Affirming my belief that 'old' eyes can continue to see and experience things differently. As Marcel Proust once wrote "The real voyage of discovery consists not in seeking new landscapes, but in having new eyes".


Recently I came across another recipe for Cowboy Cookies, one made with toasted pecans, oatmeal, chocolate, cinnamon, and, yes, even coconut. It made me wonder if they would be as good as, or even better than, the Cowboy Cookies posted to the blog almost three years ago. Which, based on the relative short life of this blog, is a lifetime ago. I could speculate, even make an educated guess about them, based on what I think I know about cookies and cookie batter. Or I could make them. There was only one way to know for certain.


Unfortunately this incredibly delicious Cowboy Cookie doesn't have a rich, verifiable history to go along with it. How it got its' name is anyone's guess although two theories have been floating out there. Because of course everything we read on the internet is true (ha!). So keep these disclaimers in mind. The first theory was based on the belief the cookies were hardy enough to survive the journey out west. While the second one attributes their creation by some inventive Texas cowboys. Both sound plausible. If you happen to be from Texas, you might be tempted to be believe the later. This adapted version of the cookie can actually be attributed to a recipe Laura Bush shared during the Bush-Gore presidential campaign way back in 2000. Men ran for the presidency, their wives competed with cookie recipes. For the record, Laura Bush's cookie reigned over Tipper Gore's gingersnap recipe.


With most every cookie recipe I come across, something compels me to make a few minor adjustments. I didn't need more than four dozen cookies to make a decision as to whether I would like or even love them, so I made some changes to the ingredient amounts. In keeping with my belief (or to be honest, the rule) nuts should always be roasted/toasted before they are added to a dough, I made that little tweak. In the past year, I made the shift from chocolate chips to chopped chocolate when making cookies. From a visual and taste standpoint, this simple shift makes a significant difference. At the moment the Dark Belgium Chocolate Bars sold at Trader Joe's are my favorite.


These cookies come together in the same way a chocolate chip cookie does. Butter is creamed before the sugars are added, followed by the eggs and vanilla, then the dry ingredients, and finishing with all of the 'good stuff'. A standing mixer fitted with a paddle attachment makes your cookie making life easier, but certainly a hand mixer would work. The dry ingredients do not need to be sifted. Whisking them together in a large bowl (with a balloon whisk if you have one, not to fret if you don't) is good enough.


Two of the best reasons to chill a cookie dough before baking them is your cookies are less likely to spread as the fat in the dough takes longer to melt and the sugar in the dough gradually absorbs the liquid. As a result your finished cookies will be both 'thicker' and 'moister'. Or have a more 'bakery' finish look to them. The dough can be chilled for as little as 30 minutes, but I prefer chilling them overnight. An ice cream scoop makes the cookie assembly and baking process easier as well the size and shape of the cookies more uniform. So rather than chill the bowl of cookie dough, I chill a tightly wrapped tray of the formed balls of dough.

The dough balls remained chilled in the refrigerator while each batch of cookies are baked. This way they all enter the oven the same way.

On a parchment paper lined baking sheet, the Cowboy Cookies are baked in a preheated 350 degree (F) oven for 14-15 minutes. When done, they will be beautiful brown color on the top and bottom but may look a little 'unfinished' in the center. Leaving the cookies on the hot sheet pan for 2-3 minutes after you remove them from oven helps to 'finish' the cookie. Transferring them to a cooling rack helps them come to room temperature. If you are not eating them right away (but of course you have to eat at least warm cookie), they store well in a covered container or sealed cellophane bag. You could even freeze them. A good idea especially if you want to use them to make ice cream sandwiches!


So what was the verdict? Were the Cowboy Cookies Revisited as good as or better than the other Cowboy Cookie recipe? I would definitely tip my hat to this "Revisited" version as I loved the flavor and texture combination of the toasted pecans, oatmeal, chopped dark chocolate, coconut, and cinnamon. Even if your friends and family are not big fans of coconut, they might end up being fans of this crispy on the outside chewy on the inside Cowboy Cookie as the coconut doesn't overpower but rather balances the cookie's sweetness. Seriously this is one great cookie. So great, in fact, it is almost impossible to eat just one in a single sitting. This isn't just conjecture or an opinion on my part. It is a proven theory.

Sometimes you need to revisit something in order to fully appreciate it. If you haven't ever had a Cowboy Cookie or had made ones different than the recipe posted here, I would strongly encourage you to give these a try. Think of them as a heartier, more satisfying version of a chocolate chip cookie. However, if I channeled my inner Victoria Barkley I would definitely not 'beat around the bush suggesting' you make them.

Recipe
Cowboy Cookies Revisited (adapted version of Laura Bush's Cowboy Cookie recipe shared in the New York Times)
Makes approximately 4 dozen cookies

Ingredients
2 cups (260g) all-purpose flour
2 teaspoons baking powder
2 teaspoons baking soda
2 teaspoons ground cinnamon
3/4 teaspoon kosher salt
2 sticks (1 cup) unsalted butter, room temperature
1 cup (200g) granulated sugar
1 cup (200g) light brown sugar, firmly packed
2 large eggs, room temperature
2 teaspoon vanilla
11 ounces dark chocolate chopped (or 2 cups semisweet chocolate chips)
2 cups old-fashioned rolled oats
1 1/3 cups sweetened flaky coconut (e.g., Baker's Sweetened Coconut Flakes)
1 1/3 cups pecans, roasted and chopped (To roast the pecans, bake for 8-9 minutes in a preheated 350 degree oven. Allow to cool before adding to the batter.)

Directions
1. In a medium sized bowl, whisk together the flour, baking powder, baking soda, kosher salt and cinnamon. Set aside.
2. In a standing mixer fitted with a paddle attachment, cream the butter until light and fluffy (approximately 2-3 minutes).
3. Add granulated and brown sugar and beat to combine thoroughly.
4. Beat in eggs one at a time. Then beat in vanilla.
5. On low speed mix in the dry ingredients until fully blended.
6. Using a spatula or wooden spoon stir in the chopped chocolate, chopped pecans, coconut and oatmeal.
7. Using a large ice cream scoop, form balls of dough and set on a baking tray. Cover tightly with plastic wrap and refrigerate overnight.
8. Preheat oven to 350 degrees (F). Line baking sheets with parchment paper and set aside.
9. Bake cookies for 14-15 minutes until edges are lightly browned. Rotate baking sheets halfway through the baking process.
10. Remove cookies from oven and allow to sit on cookie sheet for 2-3 minutes before transferring them to a cooling rack. 
11. Cook to room temperature and store in a covered container.

Notes: I think chopped milk chocolate would also work well in these cookies. And lucky for all of us, Trader Joe's sells a large bar of Belgium Milk Chocolate, perfect for chopping and using in cookies. If you like your cookies on the crispy side, store them in the refrigerator.


White Rhododendron blooms and blossoms. 


Monday, June 20, 2016

Florentine-Style Peas


"Eat your peas!" For those of you whose aversion to peas was due in large part to being forced to eat those canned, soft, mushy peas, the ones eerily reminiscent of the jarred peas some of us were fed in our pea opinion-formative years, I can completely empathize. This emphatic plea heard at dinner tables around the country was usually accompanied by the words 'they are good for you'. Although no one happened to mention they were packed with Vitamin K, protein, full of fiber, had anti-inflammatory properties, and good for your heart. Many of us still shuddered at thought of having to eat 'those' peas. In spite of all of the health benefits of peas, more than likely my young, unworldly mind wouldn't have bought in to their whole health benefits thing anyway. Mostly because I couldn't get past how the canned version of peas tasted. Now, had I grown up in Italy my opinion and lust for peas would more than likely have been a completely different story.


There are eye-rolling peas (the canned version) and then there are eye-popping peas (Florentine-Style Peas). One look at a platter of these Florentine-Style Peas and your perception of peas begins to do a complete 180 degree flip. While you may feel compelled to passionately implore everyone sitting at your dinner table to 'eat these peas', just sit back and watch their faces when they taste them. It will be almost as good as seeing faces taking in the fireworks on the 4th of July. Better yet will be clearing the table of dishes free of even a single pea.


A side dish worthy of being placed in the center of the table, the combination of freshly shelled peas, the extra-virgin olive oil, pancetta, garlic, the sugar (the secret ingredient) and the delicious broth is what makes these peas extraordinarily delicious. In a single bite you will become deeply enamored with this savory dish. 

These Florentine-Style Peas would be a perfect side to a pasta dish, to a roast chicken, or to a grilled steak. In the spirit of 'less is more', don't serve these beautiful, flavorful peas if you are planning a meal with a hodge-podge of other sides. Because if there was ever a side dish worthy of taking center stage, it would be these Florentine-Style Peas. More than likely the words 'eat your peas' will never again need to be spoken at your dinner table.

Notes: The original recipe called for the use of freshly chopped flat leaf parsley. In spite of multiple visits to the grocery store, the parsley never made it into my cart. Thus it didn't make into these Florentine-Style Peas. Maybe the parsley further elevates the flavorfulness of this dish. I couldn't say. What I could say is that without the parsley it was insanely delicious. Dishes made with fresh seasonal ingredients always seem to taste better than ones with their frozen equivalents. While these Florentine-Style Peas can be made with high quality frozen peas, I would strongly encourage you to use freshly shelled peas the first time you make them. Sugar is the secret ingredient in these peas. I used caster sugar as it melts more quickly than granulated sugar. If you can't find caster sugar, used superfine sugar. And lastly, no matter what anyone tells you, there is no substitute for pancetta.

Recipe
Florentine-Style Peas (an ever so slight adaptation to Emiko Davies' Piselli all Fiorentina, Florentine-Style Peas as shared in her cookbook Florentine: The True Cuisine of Florence)

Ingredients
1/4 cup (4 Tablespoons) extra-virgin olive oil, divided
3 1/2 ounces thick slices of pancetta, cut into thin strips
2 garlic cloves, thinly sliced
3 1/3 cups (1 lb 2 oz) fresh, shelled peas (or good quality frozen peas)
1-2 teaspoons caster, superfine, or granulated sugar (Note: I used 2 teaspoons caster sugar)
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
4 Tablespoons finely chopped flat-leaf parsley (optional)

Directions
1. In a large saucepan, gently heat 2 Tablespoons of extra-virgin olive oil.
2. Add pancetta and garlic in pan. Cook over a low-heat for about 1-2 minutes.
3. Add peas, parsley (if using), and enough cold water to just reach the level of the peas (Note: Add water 1/2 cup at a time, making sure you don't add too much).
4. Season with a pinch of kosher salt and bring to a simmer. Cook until peas are tender (but not mushy) and garlic is cooked (approximately 8-10 minutes).
5. Add sugar, stirring until dissolved. Remove from heat.
6. Transfer peas and the majority of the broth to a large, deep platter. Drizzle peas with remaining extra-virgin olive oil and freshly ground black pepper.
7. Serve warm or at room temperature. Note: Peas are equally delicious reheated the next day.


Sakonnet Vineyards, Little Compton, Rhode Island



Wednesday, June 15, 2016

Caprese Salad


Summer's astronomical start doesn't officially arrive for another week, however, meteorologically it has already steamrolled in. If this midwestern 'heatmageddon' continues at its' current pace, it is going to be a very long, hot summer. Let the whining begin! Admittedly I am what you might call a heat wimptress. The little beads of sweat covering my nighttime face as I lay in bed in a room without a cross breeze in our un-air-conditioned house remains one of my still retrievable childhood memories. Somehow I managed to survive living in house where the fan was faced to the outside (supposedly to draw the heat out). Although the remains of my aversion to hot, humid weather is now reflected in my adult beet, or rather tomato red face. The visible battle scar from my days growing up in a 'hot' house.  

Summer's seasonal fruits, vegetables, and herbs are amongst my absolute favorites. One of the upsides of having to endure brutally hot and humid days is having access to the some of most incredibly flavorful bounty Mother Nature has to offer. High up on my list of summer food favorites are tomatoes.


If there was ever a dish requiring absolutely no culinary prowess, it would be a Caprese Salad. Essentially a four ingredient dish, if you don't count kosher salt and freshly ground pepper that is. However, if there was ever a salad requiring the best, freshest, ripest ingredients available, it would be, yes you guessed it, a Caprese Salad. SeriousEats wrote a great article on "How Not to F*ck Up a Caprese Salad". In case you don't want to or have the time to read the whole article, let me share with you the down and dirty short version of this great, wickedly entertaining, yet informative article. "Get the best damn tomatoes, mozzarella, and basil you can find, put 'em on a plate, sprinkle them with salt and pepper, drizzle them with the best damn olive oil and stop right there. Do not pass Go, do not collect $200, and step away from the balsamic vinegar." Yes, you read that correctly. No balsamic vinegar. Because this may cause your head to spin just a bit, I will let that thought sink in and come back to it later.


Depending on where you live, it may be one of those salads you can, or rather should be, making for only a couple months of the year. The Caprese Salads made in the summer or early fall tastes very different than the ones made in the winter or spring months. Unless, of course, you have a fondness for those mealy, tasteless, genetically engineered things sold in grocery stores or appearing on restaurant menus (falsely) labeled as tomatoes in the middle of the winter or in early spring. 

Whether you say to-may-to or to-ma-to, nothing comes close to the juicy, delicious, bursting with flavor taste of a freshly picked (from the farm or garden if you are lucky) ripe tomato. Or better yet, an heirloom tomato. Enduring the heat of the summer months just happens to be one the prices we need to pay in order to have access to ripe off the vine tomatoes. 

The tomatoes available at the Farmer's Market last weekend were absolutely, 'be still my heart' beautiful. For the Caprese Salad I planned to make for a dinner with friends, the combination of heirloom and some 'variety unknown' tomatoes would make it one of those best of both tomato worlds salads.


One of the larger Italian stores near my home sells some of the best homemade, fresh mozzarella. And at prices far less than some of the other grocery stores, especially the ones specializing in fresh, organic foods! If possible, look for the fresh mozzarella floating in its' brine solution versus the prepackaged wrapped 'fresh' mozzarella for a Caprese Salad to die for. The taste difference between the two types of fresh mozzarella is akin to the difference between a 30 degree and 90 degree day.


After the tomatoes and mozzarella, you need only two other 'freshest and bestest' you can find ingredients: basil and extra-virgin olive oil. Depending on how often you use basil, grow as much of it as you possibly can! One can never have too much basil growing in one's garden. 


To tear or to cut? That is the basil question. Some will say there is more flavor when you tear the basil (due to the release of its oil). Others will say a steel knife will cause some oxidation to the basil, thus affecting the coloring. But the cut-tear approach may be more about preference than exact science (especially if you use a plastic knife to cut the basil). So just do what feels right for you.


The Caprese Salad calls for thicker slices (about one-half inch) of tomatoes as well as the mozzarella. My mozzarella slices are generally cut a tad thinner than the tomato slices.


How many times have you ordered a Caprese Salad in a restaurant having at least, if not more, than a drizzle of balsamic vinegar on it? Hint: They probably are not making it with the best and/or freshest tomatoes and mozzarella available. Well, contrary to a widely held mis-conception in the United States. a genuine Italian Caprese Salad is not served with any vinegar. It is simply dressed with a high quality extra-virgin olive oil and the juices from the tomatoes. Anything more will mask the flavor of the tomatoes and mozzarella. If, for any reason you or your friends/family happen to like balsamic vinegar with your Caprese Salad, well, serve it on the side. But don't tell anyone I told you that. I do not want the Caprese Salad purists to come looking for me.


After mint mojitos and some appetizers, this Caprese Salad was the prelude to a meal of Lasagna Bolognese and Florentine Style Peas (both upcoming blog posts). And in keeping with an Italian themed meal, it ended with Honey and Pistachio Panna Cotta. If there was ever a dinner menu to both tantalize and satisfy one's visual and taste senses, this would be it. Whether or not I serve this meal again over the course next several months, I will definitely be making this Caprese Salad as often as possible. And always with the Balsamic vinegar, the one my sister brought me back from Italy, on the side.

Recipe
Caprese Salad
Serves 4 to 5

Ingredients
4-5 large ripe heirloom or vine ripened tomatoes, cut into half inch slices
3 six ounce balls of fresh mozzarella, cut into slightly less than half inch slices
10-12 basil leaves
Extra-virgin olive oil
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
Optional to serve on the side: A good quality balsamic vinegar

Directions
1. Alternately layer tomatoes and mozzarella on large serving platter.
2. Sprinkle with kosher salt and pepper.
3. Generously drizzle extra-virgin olive oil over tomatoes and mozzarella.
4. Top with torn and/or cut slices of fresh basil.
5. Serve immediately.

Over the river and through the woods. Wilbour Woods, Little Compton, RI. Calm, cascading, and rippling water images.





Monday, June 13, 2016

Honey and Pistachio Panna Cotta


Consciously or subconsciously we all have our creature of habit tendencies. So whether or not 'the grass is always greener on the other side of the fence' has any assembly of truth (yes, there are skeptics living amongst us) depends in part on how often we venture outside of our comfort zones. Revisiting a recipe for something we have made for years (the ones permanently memorized, the ones we could easily make in our sleep) can feel like either a gut-wrenching or liberating experience. While I consider myself to be someone who values loyalty, I have never really extended or generalized that concept to a recipe. So when planning a menu for this past weekend's small dinner party I thought maybe the time had come to make a new Panna Cotta recipe instead of making my go-to Panna Cotta with Balsamic Strawberries. Even though it was nearing the end of the strawberry season, the fresh picked strawberries at the farmer's market looked perfect.


My only trepidation was making another new recipe for the first time (there were two other first time recipes on the dinner menu). Particularly a dessert recipe, the last thing everyone eats, or in other words, the last thing their palates and eyes remember. But once I decided on what the Plan B dessert would be, I started on my Panna Cotta recipe reconnaissance. Ultimately I decided I would make some minor tweaks to Gourmet's (1997) recipe and add honey and pistachios.

If, after the person who shall remain nameless tasted the Honey and Pistachio Panna Cotta and declared it simply 'good' or whatever might be worse than 'good', then the finishing touch to the Italian themed meal would be an affogato. After the first bite he said "I think everyone should just give me their desserts now" in a way we all instantly knew it was better than 'good'. Later that evening, the person who shall remain nameless said it was the best Panna Cotta I had ever made. 

Apparently this culinary 'risk' came a 'reward'. Sure, you might be thinking, it wasn't much of a risk. All I will say is 'when was the last time you swayed from one of your always go to recipes?'

Panna Cotta, the Italian version of creme brulee and flan, is a softly set, creamy, rich dessert. It may just be one of the most perfect, most luxurious desserts to make. One of the ingredient variabilities in a basic panna recipe is the liquids used. Ranging from all heavy cream to cream and half-and-half to cream and milk in varying ratios. Other variations involve the type of sugar (granulated, brown, caster, agave, etc) an the flavoring (vanilla (extract, paste or seeds), mint, etc.). This Honey and Pistachio Panna Cotta is made with two parts heavy cream (the higher the fat content the better) and one part half-and-half; caster sugar; and, vanilla extract.

I decided I wanted to have honey and pistachios on both the top and bottom of the panna cotta. I thought that if I put the honey in first and then sprinkled on some coarsely chopped pistachios, the pistachios would all adhere to the honey. As some of the floated into the panna cotta when it was poured into the glasses, I learned I was mistaken. Definitely not a deal breaker, but next time I would sprinkle the pistachios in first, then drizzle on the honey. For added 'stick to the bottom' security, I might stir the pistachio/honey mixture. How much honey you drizzle on is a factor, the less honey the more likely the pistachios will float up; the more honey, the less likely they will. The diameter of the base of the glass or ramekin you use will have some affect on how much honey you use.

After the gelatin and water are mixed together and allowed to set/soften for a minute, the mixture is heated over low heat until the gelatin is dissolved. Once this occurs, the pan is removed from the heat. In a medium or large saucepan the cream, half-and-half, and sugar are heated until the mixture just comes to a boil. Stir constantly to avoid any scorching on the bottom of your pan, because burnt milk tastes terrible! I decided to use caster versus granulated sugar due to its' higher meltability factor. 


Once the cream/milk/mixture reaches the just coming to a boil point, remove from the heat and whisk in the gelatin mixture and vanilla. Pouring this mixture into your glasses/ramekins is much easier if you pour it into a large (heat proof) mixing cup with a spout.


Depending on which size of container you use as well as how much of the mixture you pour in, this recipe will make 6 to 8 panna cottas. While it will set up in about 6 hours, I would recommend you allow the panna cotta to chill covered in the refrigerator overnight. Finish off the panna cotta with a drizzle of honey and some pistachios when you are ready to serve it.


I absolutely loved the honey and pistachios with this panna cotta! But I also think I would love it served with balsamic strawberries. The texture of this panna cotta is silky smooth with the right amout of firmness. The taste is beyond sumptuous. To say that I was deliriously happy from crossing over the proverbial panna cotta fence would be an understatement. Hope you take a few recipe leaps of faith in the days, weeks, and months ahead too! P.S. There wasn't a drop of the Honey and Pistachio Panna Cotta in anyone's glasses. 

Recipe
Honey and Pistachio Panna Cotta (inspiration from the Gourmet 1997 Panna Cotta recipe)

Ingredients
1 envelope unflavored gelatin (recommend Knox)
2 Tablespoons cold water
2 cups heavy whipping cream (17-19% fat)
1 cup half and half
1/3 cup plus 1 Tablespoon caster sugar (or use granulated sugar) (Recommend India Tree Caster Sugar)
2 teaspoons vanilla
4-6 ounces honey (Recommend Savannah Bee Wildflower Honey or any other high quality honey)
1/2 cup pistachios, coarsely chopped

Directions
1. Sprinkle chopped pistachios on the bottom of 6 glasses or 8 (1/2 cup size) ramekins. Drizzle a generous tablespoon of honey over pistachios (try to cover all of the pistachios with the honey). Set aside
2. In a small saucepan, sprinkle gelatin over cold water. Let stand for 1 minute to soften.
3. Heat gelatin mixture over low heat until gelatin is dissolved. Immediately remove pan from heat.
4. In a medium or large sized saucepan, bring cream, half and half, and sugar just to a boil over moderately high heat, stirring constantly. Remove pan from heat.
5. Whisk gelatin mixture and vanilla into cream/milk/sugar mixture until blended. Note: Stir gently as more vigorous stirring will create alot of bubbles in the mixture.
6. Pour mixture into prepared glasses or ramekins. Cover and chill at least 6 hours, but preferably overnight.
7. When ready to serve, drizzle more honey on top of panna cottas and sprinkle with pistachios.

Note: This may be my new most favorite panna cotta recipe. Feel free to interchange the honey and pistachios with balsamic strawberries as another variation.

Free range chickens in Rhode Island.