Monday, November 2, 2020

Green Chile Cornbread


Less than four miles from my home lies a historic treasure, the Graue Mill. This historic grist mill built in 1852 not only ground wheat and other grains produced by local farmers, it also served as one of the stations for the Underground Railroad during and shortly after the end of the Civil War. While I have driven by and stopped to take photographs of and near the Graue Mill for years, it wasn't until I went to an event on the grounds of the Mill a few weeks ago did I learn some of the details of its' significant history. While tours of the Mill have been temporarily suspended due to the ongoing pandemic, a weekend event made it possible for me to buy some bags of the mill's stone ground cornmeal. Unbeknownst to me was learning freshly ground cornmeal can be stored in the freezer to retain its' freshness. So one bag went into the freezer while the other one waited for me to decide what to make with it first. Although it didn't take long for me to make up mind. Partly because of the historic significance of the Graue Mill and partly because I was making a batch of chili for Halloween, some of the stone ground corn meal was destined to be used in this new cornbread recipe.


Cornbread has its' own storied history as well as some very strongly held traditional beliefs about the ingredients used to make it. Toni Tipton-Martin shared in her cookbook 'Jubilee: Recipes from Two Centuries of African American Cooking' her theory about "Southern" cornbread. If it was a "Southern Cornbread" then it seldom or rarely had sugar added to the batter. And if sugar was added then it was reflective of the norms of a particular region. However, this assumption didn't completely hold up as she researched cornbread recipes written by African American cooks as far back as the mid-1800s. It appeared sweeteners, like molasses, were added to cornbread. Thus negating her working theory. However, while many 'Southern' cornbread recipes continue to be made without sugar (or sugar sweeteners), 'Skillet Cornbread' recipes more than likely are sweetened with varying amounts of sugar. But it wasn't until I read through her cookbook did I learn there was a version of cornbread called 'Spanish Cornbread'. Black cookbook authors living in the Southwest and West began incorporating ingredients associated with Mexican cooking, such as hot chile peppers, into their recipes and referring to them as 'Spanish' versions. So when I saw the recipe for Spanish Cornbread, one made with diced green chiles, shredded cheddar cheese, cream corn, and sugar, my taste buds were salivating. And a plan for using the stone ground cornmeal from the historic mill was made.


The recipe for this Green Chile Cornbread was inspired by the Spanish Cornbread recipe Toni Tipton-Martin shared in recent cookbook. While all of the ingredient amounts remained constant, there were some changes made. 


Instead of using minced onion, I used onion powder; the can of minced green chiles was drained before they were added to the batter; and white (instead of yellow) sharp Cheddar cheese was used. These relatively minor changes yielded great results. 


Like most cornbread recipes, wet ingredients and dry ingredients are gently mixed separately before being combined to form the batter. Overmixing the batter will cause a more tough versus a dense, crumby texture.


Sizzling the butter in a cast iron pan in the hot (400 degree) oven ensures your baked cornbread will have a deliciously irresistible crisp, crusty edge. Baking time for the cornbread is somewhere around the thirty minute mark (mine was in the oven for exactly 30 minutes) or until the top is a beautiful golden brown. The aroma of the cornbread baking in the oven is intoxicating.


Never have I tasted such a moist, perfect crumb, flavorful cornbread. The addition of the minced green chiles added an enhancing, rather than overwhelming dimension of flavor. The sugar added just the right amount of sweetness while the grated white sharp Cheddar cheese and creamed corn added moistness. In the first bite I was in cornbread heaven.


The keys to making a great cornbread are twofold: a great recipe and a cast iron pan. You now have a really great recipe! If you already own a cast iron pan, all you need to do is gather the ingredients. If don't yet own a cast iron pan, immediately add it to your list of must have kitchen items. As it's one of the most versatile pans to own. From Dutch Babies, to fruit crisps, to skillet brownies and cookies, to this seriously delicious cornbread, your cast iron skillet will get a significant amount of use. 

This Green Chile Cornbread would pair well with some homemade Chili, homemade Sloppy Joes, or thick slices of a country ham. But I must tell you, warmed up leftovers slathered with a little bit of butter are really good all on their own. Really, really good.

Recipe
Green Chile Cornbread (inspired by the Spanish Cornbread recipe from Toni Tipton-Martin's cookbook 'Jubilee: Recipes from Two Centuries of African American Cooking')
Serves 10-12

Ingredients
1 1/2 cups (6 3/4 ounces/188g) stone ground or yellow cornmeal (See Notes)
1 1/4 cups (163g) all-purpose flour
1/4 cup (50g) granulated sugar
2 teaspoons baking powder
1/2 teaspoon baking soda
1 teaspoon kosher salt
3/4 teaspoon onion powder
1 cup (9 1/2 ounces/273g) creamed corn
1 cup buttermilk
1 (4 ounce) can of green chiles, drained
1 large egg, lightly beaten
1 cup (4 1/2 ounces/117g) white sharp cheddar cheese, shredded
4 Tablespoons unsalted butter

Directions
1. Preheat oven to 400 degrees (F).
2. In a large mixing bowl, whisk together the cornmeal, flour, sugar, baking powder, baking soda, salt and onion powder. Set aside.
3. In a medium sized bowl, combine the creamed corn, buttermilk, drained chiles, and egg. Mix to combine. Stir in the grated cheese.
4. Pour the liquid ingredients into the dry ingredients, stirring just until combined.
5. Add butter to a 10" cast iron skillet. Place in oven and heat until the butter is foamy (approximately 3 to 4 minutes). Remove from oven and swirl the butter around the pan.
6. Immediately pour the cornbread batter into the hot skillet. Bake for 30 minutes or until golden brown on top. 
7. Let rest for 5 to 10 minutes before serving. Serve warm or at room temperature. If kept tightly covered, the cornbread will still be good for 2-3 days. If it lasts that long.

Notes: (1) I used stone ground cornmeal sold only at the Old Graue Mill in Oak Brook, Illinois. However, use any good quality stone ground cornmeal or yellow cornmeal for this recipe. 

Tuesday, October 27, 2020

Roasted Chickpeas w/ Pepper & Pecorino Romano Cheese


"Eating is so intimate. It's very sensual. When you invite someone to sit at your table and you want to cook for them, you're inviting a person into your life." (Maya Angelou) Of the many things I have missed most in the last seven months (and there are plenty) is being able to invite family and friends to my table. Have you noticed that most of us never the leave the table the same person we were before we sat down? As our lives, minds, and/or spirits become so much richer when we are able to gather together to enjoy some really good food and even better conversation. The proverbial icing on the cake of coming together happens when the flavors of the food bring joy to our sense of taste. And nothing is cause for more jubilation than to know everyone left the table having at least one memorable bite. The cause of this bit of pandemic related melancholy came late last week when I was debating with myself over the need (or was it desire) for some new dinner plates. For someone who could probably easily host a dinner for 200 people with my current inventory of dinnerware, buying more dishes could be considered borderline foolish. However, the ambiance created by a beautiful, even simple table matters to me as much as the menu itself. I paused on buying the dishes. But not because I already have more than enough. Rather it was because I didn't know when the next time it would be when the chairs around my table would be filled with the people in my life that matter to me. Yes, I realize this isn't a first world problem. However, I long for the day when gatherings around my table return. When just being able to share a simple meal or small bites together can help make us feel all the more richer and connected to one another.


So until that day arrives we can all still make some really good food for those we live with and/or for the few we let into in our pandemic bubble of friends. Nothing could be easier or simpler to make than these Roasted Chickpeas w/ Pepper & Pecorino Romano Cheese. A bit on the addictive side and healthier than most small bites, they are the perfect pre-dinner snack to nosh on with a glass of wine or hard cider.


Extra-virgin olive oil, sea salt, freshly ground black pepper, finely grated Pecorino Romano Cheese, and a can of chickpeas (drained and rinsed) are the only ingredients you need. When roasted at the high temperature of 400 degrees (F), the chickpeas turn golden and get crispy on the outside. 


When tossed in finely grated Pecorino Romano Cheese, these roasted chickpeas were inspired by the classic Roman pasta dish (Cacio E Pepe) made with Pecorino cheese and black pepper. Making this yet another version of simple sumptuous food. 


From start to finish you can be serving a warm bowl of these Roasted Chickpeas w/ Pepper & Pecorino Romano Cheese in less than twenty minutes. Quite possibly with the exception of a block of Pecorino Romano Cheese in your refrigerator, you more than likely have all of the other ingredients readily available in your pantry. 

To make everyone comfortable eating this sharable little bite put some spoons and small plates when serving. And if you don't have any small plates, well give yourself permission to buy some. Because someday they will be put to even greater use. 

Recipe
Roasted Chickpeas w/ Pepper & Pecorino Romano Cheese (inspired by the Ceci Cacio E Pepe recipe from "Tartine All Day: Modern Recipes for the Home Cook" by Elisabeth Prueitt
Makes 1 1/2 cups

Ingredients
15 ounce (420g) can of chickpeas, rinsed and drained
1/2 teaspoon of sea salt
10-12 grinds of black peppercorns
1 Tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil
35g finely grated Pecorino Romano cheese
Sea salt for finishing

Directions
1. Preheat the oven to 400 degrees (F).
2. Toss the chickpeas, sea salt, black pepper and olive oil together on a rimmed baking sheet.
3. Roast until the chickpeas are golden and crisp on the outside (approximately 9-12 minutes).
4. Remove the pan from the oven and immediately sprinkle on the grated cheese. Toss to coat.
5. Season with a generous pinch of sea salt.
6. Transfer to a serving bowl. Serve warm or at room temperature.

Notes: (1) Store, covered, any leftovers in the refrigerator for up o 2 days. Re-crisp the chickpeas in a 400 degree (F) oven for 5-6 minutes before serving. (2) 35g of finely grated Pecorino Romano cheese is equivalent to 6 to 7 heaping Tablespoons, however, if at all possible, weigh out the grated cheese. (3) Freshly ground pepper versus ground pepper from a jar adds a more earthier flavor along with a little bit of heat.

Sunday, October 18, 2020

Apple Crisp with Salted Caramel Sauce


Last week we took a day trip to southwest Michigan to go apple picking at a favorite orchard. As my luck would have it, the season for Honey Crisps and Gala Apples ended a week earlier. Seems being late to the party is becoming more than just an emerging trend in my life. However, taking in the spellbinding, vibrant colors in the landscape, meandering through the orchard with my camera, having a light, outdoor lunch and some hard cider at Virtue Cider, and photographing a favorite lighthouse in South Haven more than made up for not being able to actually pick some Honey Crisp or Gala apples off of a tree (we managed to pick up a half-bushel of apples from the orchard). A change in scenery almost always inspires and energizes me. Filled with inspiration and energy I decided to put the twenty pounds of apples we bought to good use sooner rather than later. First up would be some Homemade Applesauce. (If you haven't made it, you should. It's that good.) Not even encountering a road block, aka the unbeknownst to me pandemic shortage of glass Mason Jars, would deter me. After a trip to three different hardware stores I had all the jars I needed and then some.


After a couple of batches of my favorite chunky style, lightly spiced applesauce werege made and jarred up, there were still plenty of apples left over. Needing an outlet for all of that inspiration I was feeling, I thought I needed yet another apple crisp recipe in my life. Three years ago I shared an Apple Crisp recipe influenced by one from Tartine. And seven years ago I shared the recipe for Shirley's Apple Crisp, a beloved family favorite a very dear friend shared with me. While these are two completely different, delicious recipes, they do share at least one thing in common. Neither have oatmeal in the topping. In my delusional world an apple crisp made with oatmeal swings in the direction of a healthy apple crisp. And then, after having a piece of a homemade apple pie made with salted caramel while in Colorado, I knew my next Apple Crisp recipe needed to be one made with both oatmeal and a Salted Caramel Sauce. Yes, let's forget me creating a healthy version of an apple crisp for now (or possibly ever). Instead, let's think about how we all need an apple crisp drizzled in salted caramel sauce, maybe even served with some vanilla ice cream and, for good measure, just a little more luscious salted caramel sauce drizzled on top in our life right now. Because this Apple Crisp with Salted Caramel Sauce is the epic, the drop-the-mic version of an apple crisp. As it has the ideal combinations of tender, slightly sweet, slightly tart apples, a rich, crunchy, spiced oat crisp topping, and the most perfect salted caramel finishing touch. 

Technically there are two recipes in this blog post. One for the Apple Crisp and one for the Salted Caramel Sauce. And while the Salted Caramel Sauce is worthy of a post of its' own, I am pairing them together (and you should or rather must too!) here. I am pretty confident once you taste the Salted Caramel Sauce on the apple crisp you are going to want to make the sauce again and again and again. Serve it with apple slices, drizzle it over a batch of brownies, serve it alongside pumpkin pie, create a simple dessert of vanilla ice cream drizzled in Salted Caramel Sauce, or heck, just eat it off a spoon from the jar. The possibilities for this sauce are only limited by your imagination. 


But first I need to talk about the Apple Crisp. This one uses equal portions of two kinds of apples: Honey Crisp and Granny Smiths. I happen to love a crisp with a slightly sweet and tart apple flavor. As well as one where the apples don't become mushy in the baking (or reheating) process. Instead of using only granulated sugar in the apple mixture, this one uses brown sugar to give it a depth of flavor granulated sugar doesn't provide (it took me years to learn this secret). Some freshly squeezed lemon juice, kosher salt, cinnamon, and all-purpose flour all get mixed in with the brown sugar and apples to create the base layer of the crisp.

So now let's talk briefly about the top layer, the one having oatmeal as one of the ingredients. To mix the topping together you can either use your hands or a pastry cutter to create the crumbly mixture. Taking the butter out the refrigerator at least 30-60 minutes before you start assembling it makes the process of blending by hand a little easier. Look for your butter to take on a pea sized shape to determine when to stop mixing. Then sprinkle it evenly over the top of the apple mixture. Note: You can also make the crisp topping in a food processor.


The total baking time for the apple crisp ranges from 60-65 minutes. For the first 30 minutes the crisp bakes at an oven temperature of 350 degrees (F) and for the last 30-35 minutes it bakes at 375 degrees (F). As a result the apples bake up incredibly tender while the the top turns golden and crispy. 

Not only will you drizzle some of the mouthwatering Salted Caramel Sauce over the baked apple crisp, you will drizzle some over the scoop of vanilla ice cream sitting on top a generous serving of the warm out of the oven apple crisp. 


There are a multitude of Salted Caramel Sauce recipes out there. Some are made with as little as four ingredients, some made either with or without water, some are made with varying amounts of butter, and some are made with or without vanilla. In addition to all of the ingredient variations, the techniques for making the sauce also very slightly. Some recommend using a candy thermometer while others recommend you look for color (a medium amber is best) and some add in the butter before the heavy cream while others add it in last. This recipe uses seven ingredients, uses the color technique, and has the butter going in after the heavy whipping cream. But one of the key ingredients to this sauce is the use of a small amount of light corn syrup. It not only adds flavor it greatly contributes to the sauce's final texture. While I haven't tasted every version of a Salted Caramel Sauce out there, I would enter this one in a throw down.

A scoop of vanilla ice cream just adds to the decadence and delicious of this Apple Crisp. It also gives you a reason to drizzle on a little more of that insanely good Salted Caramel Sauce.

The recipe for the Apple Crisp serves 8-10. But you can easily halve the recipe for the crisp. However, whatever you do, don't halve the recipe for the Salted Caramel Sauce.

The benefits of getting in not one, but two change of sceneries in the last several weeks continue. And this Apple Crisp with Salted Caramel Sauce is proof of what happens when new found energy and inspiration come into my life. Note to self: You need to travel (safely) more. 

I debated about whether or not to call this Apple Crisp with Salted Caramel Sauce the BEST Apple Crisp with Salted Caramel Sauce recipe. In the end, I decided not to let any unbiased opinions influence me. But you can feel free to call it the BEST Apple Crisp with Salted Caramel Sauce after you taste it. I won't mind at all.
Recipe
Apple Crisp with Salted Caramel Sauce
Serves 8-10

Ingredients
Apple Crisp
3 1/4 to 3 1/2 pounds of apples (recommend using either a combination of Honey Crisp and Granny Smith Apples or all Granny Smith Apples)
1/2 cup (100 g) light brown sugar
1 Tablespoon all-purpose flour
3/8 teaspoon cinnamon
1/4 teaspoon Kosher salt
2 Tablespoons freshly squeezed lemon juice

1 cup (94g) old-fashioned oatmeal
1 cup (132g) all-purpose flour
7/8 cup (175g) light brown sugar
1/8 cup (25g) granulated sugar
1/4 teaspoon baking powder
1/4 teaspoon baking soda
1 teaspoon cinnamon
9 Tablespoons (127g) unsalted (chilled but not ice cold butter, cut into small cubes) 

A really good vanilla ice cream

Salted Caramel Sauce
1 cup (200g) granulated sugar
1 generous Tablespoon light corn syrup
1/4 cup water
1/2 cup heavy whipping cream, heated to take the chill off
6 Tablespoons (85g) unsalted butter, slightly room temperature (just not cold right out of the refrigerator)
1 teaspoon flaky sea salt
1 teaspoon vanilla

Directions 
Apple Crisp
1. Preheat the oven to 350 degrees (F). 
2. Peel, core, and slice the apples. Place in a large bowl. Note: Cut the apples into 1/4" rings and cut each ring in half for best results.
3. Add the light brown sugar, flour, cinnamon, Kosher salt, and lemon juice to the apples. Toss to mix. Transfer mixture to 9" x 12" baking dish. Set aside while you make the topping.
4. In a medium sized bowl, add in the oatmeal, flour, brown sugar, granulated sugar, baking powder, baking soda, cinnamon and butter. Using a fork or pastry blender, mix until the butter is pea sized. Even spread the topping over the apples. Note: You can also make the topping in a food processor. Just don't' over process it.
5. Place the baking pan on a large baking sheet. Place the apple crisp in oven and bake for 30 minutes. Then increase the oven temperature to 375 degrees (F) and continue baking for 30-35 minutes or until the top is golden and the apples are tender. Total baking time will be approximately 60-65 minutes.
6. Remove from oven. Let sit for 10 minutes.
7. Drizzle with the Salted Caramel Sauce. Spoon into bowls. Top with a generous scoop of vanilla ice cream. Then drizzle on a little more of the Salted Caramel Sauce.
8. Store leftovers covered in the refrigerator. Reheat individual servings in the microwave. Note: The apple crisp will be good for up to 5 days chilled and covered in the refrigerator.

Salted Caramel Sauce
1. In a heavy bottomed saucepan, add in the sugar, corn syrup, and water. Whisk until all of the ingredients are blended. 
2. Over medium-high heat, cook the mixture, stirring constantly until the sugar dissolves and the mixture begins to bubble. Stop stirring and allow the mixture to boil until it turns to a medium amber color. Note: If your sugar mixture gets too dark, your caramel sauce will take on a burnt taste.
3. Remove from the heat and gently pour in the warmed heavy cream. Although it will bubble up furiously, whisk to blend the cream into the sugar syrup. When the mixture is smooth, add the butter and sea salt. Slowly whisk until the butter has melted. 
4. Add in the vanilla.
5. Return the pan to the stove top and cook on medium low heat for one minute. Remove from the heat and pour the salted caramel sauce into a heat proof glass jar.
6. Let sit for at least 10 minutes before drizzling over the apple crisp.
7. The Salted Caramel Sauce will keep if covered at room temperature for at least 2 days or chilled in the refrigerator for more than 2 weeks. Reheat the sauce in the microwave before serving.  


Apple Orchards, Fennville, Michigan, October 2020


Monday, October 12, 2020

Spaghetti Squash Arrabbiata


"Anything you do in life, there will have been a first time." In keeping with 2020 being the year of firsts in my life time (first pandemic, first quarantine, first broken arm, first 1,000 piece puzzle obsession, etc.) it is fitting this is the year of eating spaghetti squash for the first time. Yes, as hard as it is to believe, it's true. Until this past weekend I have never made or tasted spaghetti squash before (gasp!). Unlike some of the other firsts of 2020 this will be one having much anticipated seconds, thirds, fourths, etc. in my future. While butternut and acorn squashes have been in my life for a very, very long time, spaghetti squash somehow managed to escape my 'fear of missing out' attention in spite of hearing others sing its' praises. But having now tasted it in this Spaghetti Squash Arrabbiata I understand why it has become incredibly popular in the last ten years (talk about being late to the party!) 

While I don't foresee eliminating pasta from my life anytime soon, the idea of tossing roasted spaghetti squash in a great marinara sauce or an arrabbiata is definitely something I could get used to. Especially now that I have finally gotten on this healthy alternative to carb rich pasta bandwagon. Thanks in large part to everyone's favorite cooking goddess Ina Garten.


It was in her most recent cookbook "Modern Comfort Food" where I come across her recipe for Spaghetti Squash Arrabbiata. And with this being the peak season for spaghetti squash it seemed as if the universe was telling me I needed spaghetti squash in my life. Who knew this yellow gourd had the magical ability to turn into spaghetti like strands when roasted? Apparently many have, as the number of recipes using it has grown significantly in the last decade. 
 

To truly appreciate the deliciousness of spaghetti squash you need two things: a really good recipe (like this one or the one Ina shared in her cookbook) and an even better really sharp chef's knife (as you won't be able to make a clean cut of the shell of the spaghetti squash if you don't have one). 


Once you cut the squash in half lengthwise all of the seeds need to be removed with a spoon. After brushing the sides and bottom of the squash with some olive oil, you drizzle olive oil and sprinkle a mixture of oregano/Kosher salt/black pepper into the cavity of each squash. Like most root vegetables, this one too benefits from being roasted at a relatively high temperature (425 degrees F for 50-60 minutes). The high heat contributes to the squash magically turning from a hard gourd like interior to a fluffy, tender spaghetti like texture and appearance.


Because the spaghetti squash itself has a relative neutral flavor (although some say it has a slight amount of sweetness to it), it benefits from being mixed with a highly flavored sauce. Like an arrabbiata sauce, one similar to a marinara but spicier due to the addition of Aleppo pepper or red pepper flakes. The major difference between the recipe for Arrabbiata Sauce below and Ina's is this one doesn't have red wine or fennel seeds in it. It also uses crushed and diced tomatoes instead of whole tomatoes. Because really, who needs to take out and clean a food processor if you don't have to! More than likely the recipe for the Arrabbiata Sauce will yield slightly more than what you need for this dish. Because of that I recommend you mix the scooped out, fluffy roasted spaghetti squash and the Arrabbiata Sauce in a large mixing bowl instead of tossing all of the squash in the pot of the sauce. Due to the fact that not all medium sized squashes are the same size, you can then control the ratio of the squash to the sauce. Note: I had a little more than one cup of extra sauce.

Once the sauce and roasted squash are mixed together, it all goes back into the roasted shells. Topped with either fresh mozzarella or bocconcini and freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano, the filled squash shells go into the 425 degree (F) oven for another 12-15 minutes. 


By then, your Spaghetti Squash Arrabbiata should be done when the mixture is hot and the cheeses have melted. 


The finishing touch is some additional grated cheese along with some julienned fresh basil.


I was surprised at how filling and deliciously satisfying this vegetarian, gluten free dish was. It only took one bite of the slightly spicy sauce/melted cheese/roasted squash dish for me to realize what I had been missing out all these years. But hey, better late than never, right? 

We savored it as a main dish but it could easily be served as a side dish. Simple to make, beautiful to take in with your eyes, and nutritionally luscious, I am beyond smitten with this Spaghetti Squash Arrabbiata. This definitely ranks up there as one of the more memorable first time dishes. But like I said earlier, the first time will not be the last time. 

Recipe
Spaghetti Squash Arrabbiata (inspired by Ina Garten's Spaghetti Squash Arrabbiata recipe in her new cookbook "Modern Comfort Food"
Serves 4 

Ingredients
Arrabbiata Sauce
1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil
14-16 cloves of garlic, very thinly sliced
1 (28 ounce) can San Marzano crushed tomatoes
1 (28 ounce) can San Marzano diced tomatoes
2-3 Tablespoons granulated sugar (strongly recommend using 3 Tablespoons)
2-3 teaspoon Kosher salt 
1/2 to 1 teaspoon Aleppo pepper (or crushed red pepper flakes)
10-12 fresh basil leaves, sliced into slivers

Spaghetti Squash Arrabbiata
2 medium sized spaghetti squashes (approximately 3 pounds each)
6 Tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil plus more for brushing outside of the squash
1 1/2 teaspoons dried oregano
4 teaspoons Kosher salt
1 1/2 teaspoon black pepper
Marinara Sauce (recipe follows)
8 ounces fresh mozzarella cut into 1 inch pieces or fresh bocconcini
4 Tablespoons freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano
8-10 fresh basil leaves, julienned

Directions
Arrabbiata Sauce
1. Heat extra virgin olive oil in a heavy deep saucepan. Add garlic slices and cook until lightly browned.
2. Add crushed and diced tomatoes. Bring mixture to a boil.
3. Reduce heat to a simmer and add Kosher salt, Aleppo pepper, and sugar. Cook for at least 30 minutes (but up to 50 minutes) until sauce has slightly thickened.
4. Add slivered basil to sauce in last five minutes of simmering.

Spaghetti Squash Arrabbiata
1. Preheat oven to 425 degrees (F).
2. Using a sharp knife, cut each squash in half lengthwise. Begin by inserting the tip of a large chef's knife into the side of the squash and then cutting all the way through. Note: Just be careful when cutting this very hard shelled gourd.
3. Remove seeds and place the squash cut side up on a large, rimmed baking sheet.
4. Mix together the dried oregano, Kosher salt, and black pepper.
5. Brush the sides of squash with olive oil.
6. Divide the 6 Tablespoons of olive oil between the four squash halves.
7. Evenly sprinkle the oregano/salt/pepper mixture over each squash half.
8. Roast the squash for 50-60 minutes or until the flesh is tender and edges are beginning to brown.
9. Reheat the marinara sauce.
10. Scoop out almost all of the spaghetti squash (leaving 1/2 inch border of the squash in the shells) and place in a large bowl.
11. Ladle the hot sauce into the bowl of the squash until the desired consistency. Note: You may end up an extra 1 to 1 1/2 cups of sauce.
12. Spoon the mixture back into the shells. 
13. Evenly divide the mozzarella cheese between the four squash halves.
14. Sprinkle with the grated Parmigiano-Reggiano.
15. Bake for 12-15 minutes or until the squash is hot and the cheese has melted.
16. Top the baked squash with some julienned basil and serve immediately. 

Notes: (1) Instead of baking the squash/marinara mixture in the squash shells, bake in baking dish. (2) My current favorite fresh mozzarella is made by Murray Cheese. 

Wednesday, October 7, 2020

Maple Pecan Cookies

This was one of those weeks where I rediscovered or rather found a few things I had completely forgotten about, couldn't for the life of me remember where I stored them, or put on a to do list that never got done. From a pewter platter, to an antique bread trencher, to a fancy pumpkin carving kit bought at Williams-Sonoma a very long time ago, to a much beloved cookie recipe, the joy I felt in finding each of these things was indescribable. Add feeling the reassurance of knowing I really hadn't lost my mind and it all felt downright euphoric. Going on a treasure hunt in one's own home turned out to be one of the highlights of the week (tells you something about how exciting my life is!). Especially due to the fact the hunt turned out to be a successful one (even with a few short moments of madness strewn in). 


After more than seven years of sharing recipes on the blog, I cannot believe I have never shared the one for these Maple Pecan Cookies with you. It is the absolutely the best fall cookie! But it's longevity extends well past November as it definitely should be going into your holiday cookie boxes (especially because holiday cookie baking is not cancelled this year). With flavors of pure maple syrup, toasted pecans, butter, and white chocolate combined with a melt in your mouth, shortbread like texture, there is so much to love about this cookie. If ever there was a cookie I could gush on endlessly it would be this one. I am not exaggerating when I tell you these are not only the best fall cookies, but they are the BEST Maple Pecan Cookies! The white chocolate top might guarantee their place into the elusive kingdom of best ever cookies, however, they are worthy of such distinction whether eaten plain or with a dusting of confectionary sugar. 


The benefit of holding onto a recipe for years is that you end up making subtle changes to it. Which is exactly what I did with these Maple Pecan Cookies. When I first made this recipe eons ago I didn't know how significant toasting nuts before putting them into a batter alters the cookie's flavor. Now I would never make a cookie containing pecans or walnuts without first toasting them. If a recipe didn't include (Kosher) salt, I didn't add it. But now I do. If there wasn't any vanilla in the list of ingredients, I thought there must be a reason why it was omitted. However, over time I have learned some kinds of cookies, especially shortbread or shortbread-like cookies, greatly benefit from the addition of vanilla. And lastly if the recipe didn't recommend a dusting of confectionary sugar, an icing finish, or a drizzle of melted white chocolate, I too served them 'plain'. As much as I often love a cookie in its' simplest form (aka plain), some finishing touches completely transform the flavor and texture of a cookie. What I am saying here is this recipe for Maple Pecan Cookies is substantially different than the ones I first made. This version isn't just different it is significantly better. So much better that I will go on record and say they are a thrown down worthy kind of cookie.


The key to the maple flavor in these cookies is the use of pure maple syrup. It doesn't matter if you use a Grade A or Grade B syrup. But never swap out pancake syrup for maple syrup. They are two completely different things. 


Using a standing mixer with a paddle attachment definitely makes forming the dough much easier. Like some other rolled and cut out cookies, this dough benefits from a short period of rest and refrigeration. Twenty to thirty minutes of chilling time is really all this dough needs. Roll out the dough on a lightly floured surface (along with very lightly dusting the top of the dough as well as the rolling pin) to a thickness of 1/4" before cutting into your desired shapes. I used a leaf cookie cutter, but they would be equally beautiful cut into acorn or pumpkin shapes if you were going for a fall inspired look. But even a round cookie cutter with a fluted edge would make for an eye catching cookie. Already I am thinking they will be round shaped for the winter holidays and heart shaped for Valentine's Day.

Originally I baked these cookies for 22-25 minutes at 325 degrees (F). But in updating the recipe I baked them at 350 degrees (F) for 18-20 minutes. The slight increase in temperature and decrease in baking time resulted in the most beautiful golden cookie. Note: The key to determining their doneness is a golden brown bottom and golden edges.


Dip and/or drizzle the Maple Pecan Cookies in melted white chocolate after the cookies have completely cooled. To get a leaf vein look down the center of the cookie, place them face down in the melted chocolate and then lift them up and hold them upright. 


Like most shortbread cookies these have a pretty long shelf life if stored in a sealed container. Additionally, their flavor is as good on the first day as it is on the second, fifth, and even seventh day. Which makes them a great cookie to ship to friends. 


The maple flavor in these cookies isn't overwhelming. It's more like a subtle with a discernible presence kind of flavor. They are a buttery, melt in your mouth kind of cookie. Yet, they have a great texture. Honestly it is hard to eat only one of these cookies. For those of you with having great restraint, these Maple Pecan Cookies will challenge your resolve. 

Finding or rediscovering things (or even people) you thought may have lost comes with an incredible number of rewards. Including, but not limited to, appreciating it (or them) more the second time around. It's possible I may not have adequately sung the praises of this Maple Pecan Cookie if I had shared it with you years earlier. And it's possible you may not have been wowed by the cookie in its' original form. So any guilt I may have had for holding out on you, has been completely replaced by a true sense of joy in being able to share this recipe with you now.

Recipe
Maple Pecan Cookies
Makes 3 dozen cookies (less if made larger, more if made smaller)

Ingredients
4 1/2 ounces (128g) pecan halves, toasted, and coarsely chopped
1 cup (8 ounces/226g) unsalted butter, room temperature
1/2 cup (100g) granulated sugar
2 Tablespoons (40g) pure maple syrup
1 large egg yolk
1 teaspoon vanilla
2 cups (260g) all-purpose flour
1/2 teaspoon Kosher salt
10 ounces (284g) white chocolate, melted
Optional: Confectionary sugar for dusting (if not dipping in or drizzling with white chocolate)

Directions
1. In the bowl of a standing mixer fitted with a paddle attachment, beat the butter until pale and creamy (approximately 3 minutes).
2. Gradually beat in granulated sugar until well blended.
3. In a small bowl, whisk together the egg yolk, maple syrup, and vanilla. With mixer on low speed, drizzle this mixture into the butter/sugar mixture until incorporated.
4. Whisk the salt and flour together.
5. With mixture on low speed, add the flour and chopped pecans. Mix only until flour is incorporated and dough begins to form (do not over beat).
6. Cover the bowl with plastic wrap and place in the refrigerator. Chill for 20-30 minutes.
7. Preheat oven to 350 degrees (F). Line two baking pans with parchment paper and set aside.
8. On a floured surface, roll out half of the dough to 1/4" thickness. Cut dough into desired shapes.
9. Transfer cut out shapes onto the baking sheets. Bake each sheet for 18-20 minutes (rotating the baking sheet midway through) or until golden brown on the edges and bottom of the cookies. Note: Baking time should be adjusted upward for larger cookies and downward for smaller cookies.
10. Let cookies rest on the baking tray for 5 minutes before transferring to a cooling rack. Allow cookies to cool completely.
11. Dip or drizzle cooled cookies in melted white chocolate. Let cookies completely set before serving or storing. Alternately lightly dust the cookies with confectionary sugar.
12. Store cookies in a tightly sealed container. They will keep for at least a week. 

Notes: (1) Using a European or European style butter further deepens the buttery flavor of these cookies. (2) I used Ghirardelli White Vanilla Flavored Melting Wafters. But if you can find white chocolate discs, use them. (3) Toast your pecan halves on a flat baking sheet in a preheated 350 degree (F) oven for 9-10 minutes.

Paintings of Claude Monet, Monet Exhibit, Art Institute of Chicago (September 2020)