Tuesday, January 7, 2014

Edna's Houska


Everything I ate in the home of my childhood best friend's parents was incredibly delicious. And once I got over my hesitancy to try new foods, I was able to experience the full range of Italian and Polish dishes served in their home. Edna and Andy were as amazing as parents as they were cooks. This perspective (seen first through the eyes of a ten year old) was one that never changed. I may have been one of those kids who almost spent as much time at their dinner table as their children did. In retrospect, the genesis of my love of gathering friends and family around food began in their home. So each time I make one of Edna's recipes, it feels as if I am momentarily time traveling back to those carefree days of my youth. So the other day I decided to make Edna's Houska.

So what exactly is Houska? Well here is the simple answer. It is a rich, egg, slightly sweet yeast bread, one that almost every Eastern European culture (especially the Polish, Czech and Bohemian cultures) has a name for or version of. Typically the bread is braided, studded with golden raisins (although some versions omit the raisins) and contains candied fruit (or lemon zest). It is a bread traditionally associated with the Christmas, New Year or at Easter holidays. Around which holiday or holidays the Houska is served generally depends on traditions of the various Eastern European cultures where some version of the bread is made. Just like Challah (another sweet yeast bread) is eaten year round and traditions aside, I actually think it would be a shame to enjoy this incredibly flavorful, moist bread a few times a year. And getting a bit of a youthful jolt shouldn't have to be limited either.


When I first received this recipe from Edna, the mother of my childhood best friend, my initial reactions were 'maybe this is beyond my culinary capacity, maybe I will just to have to wait until I am invited for Easter dinner to experience it again, and why didn't I spend time watching her cook than I did eating hat she made'. These were just a few of my thought process I had (and remembered from) more than 30 years ago. Yes, this is how long I have had this recipe. Many things have changed over the course of the past 30 years, including how I view the making of this bread. It is actually not as complicated as my first impression lead me to believe. 

This is a bread recipe using cake yeast as opposed to granulated yeast. The cake yeast is usually found in the refrigerated dairy section of the grocery store. In addition to the yeast, eggs, milk, sugar, flour, Imperial margarine, golden raisins, lemon zest, vanilla and salt are all you need to make this sweet bread.

Sometimes when a recipe calls for the zest of a lemon we think of it as an optional ingredient. If that thought has ever crossed your mind before, this bread will have you make a permanent paradigm shift.


It all begins with scalding one cup of milk over medium-high heat in a medium sized saucepan. The milk is heated through enough to be considered scalded when small bubbles form around the edges of the pan. Once it reaches this state, remove from heat and add in the Imperial margarine, vanilla, lemon zest, sugar and salt. Stir until the butter and sugar have melted. The margarine will melt easier if you cut it up into tablespoons. The milk mixture should be lukewarm (you want to be certain not to cook the eggs) before you add the four lightly beaten eggs and the yeast/water mixture. After stirring and blending these ingredients, pour into the bowl of a standing mixer fitted with a dough hook.

Six cups of flour are added one at a time, each one being fully incorporated before adding the next one. After all of the flour is added, the golden raisins are mixed in for approximately one minute or until blended in the dough. You will think the dough needs more flour because it will be slightly sticky. Resist the temptation to add more flour as you will end up with a drier, less moist bread.


The dough is scraped onto a lightly floured surface and kneaded for several minutes (or until it is not longer sticky and has a smooth finish). The kneaded dough is placed in a large buttered bowl. Before covering the bowl with plastic wrap, turn the dough bowl over so all sides of the bread are coated in butter. Place the covered bowl in a warm place and allow the dough to rise for 1 hour to allow it to double in size.

After the dough has gone through the first rise, transfer the dough to a lightly floured surface. The dough is cut into 4 equal pieces. Each quarter is then cut in half (so you end up with 8 equal pieces).
Each piece is rolled into a log approximately 14-16 inches in length. The braids are formed by using two of the logs. When the logs are formed, tuck each end under and place on a parchment paper lined baking sheet. The finished braided logs are covered with a light towel (flour sack towels work best) and the dough goes through a second rising period of 1 hour. Because the logs will almost double in size, I use two baking sheets.


The beautiful golden finish on the Houska comes from the egg wash. Using the two remaining eggs, separate the eggs. Using only the yolks, add 2 teaspoons of water and stir until well blended. Brush each of the loaves so the entire surface of the dough is covered. Place baking sheet in a preheated 350 degree oven and bake for approximately 20 minutes. Remove baking sheets from the oven and transfer breads to a cooling rack. I generally bake my bread in the center of the oven, one baking sheet at a time. I envy those of you with double ovens.


Houska is delicious all on its' own, but when you schmear room temperature butter on it, it goes from simply delicious to additively delicious. Loaves of this bread will disappear before your eyes. Literally. It is also one of those breads perfect for making french toast or a bread pudding. That is, if you have any left after serving it. While eating this bread may not bring you back to your youth, it will bring you to a place you will want to return to again and again. Yes, life is too short to exercise restraint in making this bread for only one or two holidays a year. 

Recipe
Edna's Houska
Makes 2 very large or 4 perfect sized loaves

Ingredients
1 cup whole milk
1 cup (8 ounces/226g) margarine (recommend either Land O'Lakes or Imperial), cut into tablespoons
3/4 cup (150g) granulated sugar
1/2 teaspoon Kosher salt
Zest of one lemon
1 Tablespoon vanilla
2 ounces cake of yeast (dissolved in 1/2 cup of lukewarm water) See notes
6 large eggs, room temperature, divided
6 cups (768g) of all purpose flour, plus more as need and when kneading
15 ounces (425g) golden raisins

Directions
1. Scald milk. Add margarine, sugar, salt, zest of lemon and vanilla. Stir until margarine and sugar are melted. Remove from heat.
2. Lightly whisk 4 eggs until blended.
3. When milk mixture is lukewarm (95-105 degrees F), add lightly beaten eggs and yeast/water mixture. Stir until combined. Transfer to bowl of a standing mixer.'
4. Fit standing mixer with bread dough hook. Add flour 1 cup at a time, mixing until blended with each cup. Dough will be rather sticky. 
5. Add raisins and mix at medium speed until combined (less than 1 minute)
6.  Lightly flour a surface. Put all dough on floured surface and knead for several minutes (until dough is no longer sticky and comes together in a smooth ball). Kneading will take approximately 3-4 minutes. Note: Continue adding flour as needed while kneading. Dough should not stick to the surface before putting in the buttered bowl.
7. Place dough in a well buttered bowl. Turn dough over so all sides of the dough are covered in butter. Cover dough with plastic wrap, top with a light weight towel, and let rise in warm place for 1 hour or until the dough has doubled in size.
8. Lightly flour a surface. Remove dough from the bowl and place on lightly floured surface. Cut dough into 6 or 9 equal pieces. (6 pieces for 2 large loaves or 9 pieces for three perfect sized loaves).
9. Roll each piece into a log. Braid two logs (tucking ends under) and place on parchment paper lined baking sheet. Continue until you have 4 braided logs. Note: Alternately, cut each piece of dough into 3 pieces and braid accordingly.
10. Cover braided logs with a light weight towel (use flour sack towels if you have them). Let rise in a warm place for 1 hour.
11. Preheat oven to 350 degrees (F).
12. Make an egg wash using remaining 2 eggs but use the egg yolks only. Mix in 2 teaspoons of water (or milk) into 2 egg yolks and whisk until well blended. Brush wash on top of dough. Make sure the entire surface of bread is covered with egg wash. Note: Adding milk instead of water will create a more golden baked bread surface.
13. Bake for approximately 20 - 24 minutes (top will be beautifully browned).  When tapped, the bread will sound hollow.
14. Transfer bread to a cooling rack. Allow to cool to room temperature.
14. Using a serrated knife, slice and serve with softened butter.

Notes: (1) Recipe updated April 2020. (2) If you cannot find cake yeast in the refrigerated section of your grocery store use three 1/4 ounce packages of the granulated active yeast. (3) When measuring the flour I used a 128 per cup weight.


Over the course of my lifetime thus far my perspectives on a variety of things and people have either remained unchanged or have changed (nothing insightful about this observation, I mean really, what other options are there? Sometimes I can say the most ridiculous things. But bear with me, if you can stop laughing that is, this is going somewhere). Whether those perspectives are reaffirmed or altered is mostly dependent on how I choose to see them. I came across a quote the other day 'What we see mainly depends on what we look for.' The more I thought about it, the more I thought maybe there was wisdom in those words. The more time I spend looking for the positive, for the potential, or for goodness, the more I see. The more time I spend on finding reasons to not like something or someone, to focus on differences, or to pass judgment, the less I see (in them).

Had I never gotten over my reluctance to try new foods when I was younger, I may never have come to appreciate the wonderful foods served in the home of Andy and Edna or have had the opportunity to spend so much time at their dinner table or have learned early on how to make friends and family feel so welcomed, so special. I could go on with a million (maybe not a million, maybe hundreds) of examples of the outcomes associated with what I looked for in my experiences and in others. But regardless of how many of these I might share, I still come to the same conclusion. Yes, I really do believe the wisdom in the words 'what we see mainly depends on what we look for.' How we choose to see experiences or people really does affects our memories, relationships, and yes, maybe even our destinies.

Sunday, January 5, 2014

Flourless Chocolate Cake

As beautiful as a snow covered winter landscape can be, there is a point when you just want the snow to stop. For me, today is that day. Add bitter cold to the snow, well it leads to cabin fever. There are only so many days you curl up on comfy sofa, sit in front of a roaring fire (if you have one), browse through cookbooks, and get lost reading a few good books (to give your mind and body some Zen time to get away from the real or imagined chaos in your life). A trip to the grocery store becomes its' own adventure and a reason to leave the house (because of course you have to bake something).


We were having friends for dinner and I wanted to make a dessert I had never made them before. I was taking a slight risk in baking a Flourless Chocolate Cake, in so far as if it didn't turn out, I would have to go a Plan B dessert (vanilla ice cream drizzled in Dave's Mocha Coffee syrup, chocolate covered cashews and the remaining 'hidden' holiday caramels). Not that Plan B wouldn't be a nice ending to a meal, but the Flourless Chocolate Cake with vanilla ice cream and a drizzle of Dave's Mocha Coffee syrup would be a great ending to a meal (of course, the chocolate covered cashews and remaining 'hidden' holiday caramels would be out in bowls too).

The Flourless Chocolate Cake did indeed turn out (not that I reallly believed it wouldn't, but it is always possible I will mess up a recipe). This cake was inspired by David Lebovitz's Racines Cake recipe, which is really a recipe for flourless chocolate cake named for the restaurant in Paris where he discovered it. To be more specific, he found the recipe written on the wall of the men's room of the Racines restaurant. You know what they say, 'sometimes you find good things in the most unexpected places'. While I am thankful David Lebovitz wrote down the recipe and shared it in his Ready for Desserts: My Best Recipes cookbook, I am even more thankful for the person who used a bathroom wall to share this incredible recipe. 


Unlike some Flourless Chocolate Cake recipes, this cake really is flourless (so if you are looking to make a great cake, that also happens to be Gluten Free, for someone special, this would be the cake). Additionally it is a cake without baking soda or baking powder. All of the leavening comes from the softly whipped egg whites. It is a cake that even in blizzard like weather you most likely have all of the ingredients in your refrigerator and cupboard. But it is a cake giving you the perfect excuse to run to the grocery store to get the vanilla ice cream or to Starbucks for an espresso, which in turn, will have the benefit of giving you a temporary (literally and figuratively) cure for cabin fever. The cake is rich and dense and needs to be served with either whipped cream or ice cream.

In a heat proof bowl set over simmering water, you will combine the chocolate, butter and one Tablespoon of espresso. Now I was half joking about needing to go to Starbucks to make this cake (although don't let me stop you). For recipes calling for espresso I generally always use an instant espresso that I can make at home. It is much quicker than getting the espresso machine out or running out to Starbucks and I think the results are just as good. Once the chocolate is melted, remove from the heat and stir in 1/2 teaspoon of vanilla.


While the chocolate is cooling slightly, the egg yolks and only 1/4 cup of the granulated sugar are beat at medium-high speed until light and creamy. If using a stand mixer, use the whisk attachment. The beaten eggs are folded into the melted chocolate mixture, but wait until after you finish whipping the egg whites as it will give the chocolate a little more time to cool slightly (if you add them too soon you could end up cooking the egg yolks).


The egg whites are whipped first at low speed until they begin to hold their shape. The remaining 2 Tablespoons of sugar are added in and then whipped at high speed until the eggs hold soft peaks.

After putting in a pinch of Kosher salt, the egg yolk mixture is folded first into the melted chocolate mixture. The egg whites are folded in (in two batches). Be careful not overfold the egg whites while trying to ensure no white streaks can be seen.


In a prepared 9 inch springform pan, scrape the batter into the pan and sprinkle with the chopped chocolate espresso beans (or cocoa nibs). Place cake pan into a preheated 350 degree oven and bake for approximately 25 minutes or until the cake looks as though the center is just barely set. I began checking the cake at 20 minutes and removed at 22 minutes.

The baked cake is removed from the oven, placed on a cooling rack and allowed to come to room temperature. Before removing cake from pan, run a knife around the sides of the pan to loosen it. Transfer the cake to the platter or cake stand of your choice. I waited several hours before removing the cake from the pan as I wanted to be sure it would transfer without incident. After the cake came out of the oven, I really, really didn't want to go to Plan B. And I knew I didn't have to. I could have sprinkled the cake with confectionary sugar but I didn't want the finished dessert to remind anyone at the table of all of the snow outside. Okay maybe I am the only one who would links confectionary sugar to snow.


This single layer cake only needs to be cut into small wedges as it is both rich and dense. While it is delicious all on its' own, vanilla ice cream (now that I am back in the midwest Ben and Jerry's vanilla is the vanilla ice cream of choice) is the perfect accompaniment. Or you can also serve with freshly whipped cream. Final reminder: The cake is best served the day it is made. Suggest refrigerating any leftovers as they will take on a fudgy-like texture when chilled.

Recipe
Flourless Chocolate Cake (an ever so slight adaption to David Lebovitz's Racines Cake recipe)

Ingredients
10 ounces bittersweet (60% cocoa) or semi-sweet chocolate chips (if using a solid bar of chocolate, cut into small pieces)
1/2 cup unsalted butter, cut into pieces
1 Tablespoon freshly brewed espresso
1/2 teaspoon vanilla extract
pinch of Kosher salt
6 large eggs, separated, at room temperature
1/4 cup (or 50 g) plus 2 Tablespoons granulated sugar
2 Tablespoons of chocolate espresso beans or cocoa nibs (chopped)
Optional: Confectionary sugar 

Directions
1. Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Prepare a nine inch springform pan (lined with parchment paper and sprayed with oil or buttered).
2. Over simmering water place chocolate, butter and espresso in a heat proof bowl. Stir occasionally until chocolate has melted. Remove from heat and add vanilla. Set aside.
3. Using a whisk attachment, beat egg yolks and 1/4 cup of granulated sugar until mixture is light and creamy.
4. Beat the egg whites with 1/4 cup of granulated sugar until soft peaks form.
5. Fold in egg yolk mixture and a pinch of Kosher salt to chocolate mixture.
6. In two batches, fold in egg whites until no streaks remain. Be careful not to overfold.
7. Pour mixture into prepared springform pan. Top with 2 Tablespoons of chopped chocolate espresso beans or chocolate nibs.
8. Bake for approximately 25 minutes or until the center is almost set. (Begin checking at 20 minutes).
9. Place on cooling rack and allow to come to room temperature.
10. Run knife around edge of pan before removing cake from pan.
11. Transfer cake to cake stand or platter to serve.
12. Optional: Sprinkle cake with confectionary sugar before serving.



I thought I would have wanted to write endlessly today but the freezing weather seems to have caused a temporary 'brain freeze'. Or maybe I am still recovering from the insanity that ensues when one loses their phone for 12 hours. Well it wasn't actually lost, it was 'misplaced' and I couldn't remember where I had 'misplaced' it (when the alarm on the phone went off at 6 a.m. I discovered (whew) it had been in my bathrobe pocket). Our reliance on cellphones has almost gotten to a point where temporarily losing one is almost akin to an 'alert the media' incident.

Cellphones are what I would call the double-edged sword communication device. They can keep you connected (in real time) but they also can be the thing that causes a disconnect (like when one constantly looks at their phone or texts during a meeting or a meal). Some leadership teams have rules where phones are not checked during a meeting (in emergencies the office phone number is viewed as  the Plan B number to call). From years of experience, there have been only a handful of times when a Plan B phone call actually came in.

When dining with our niece and nephew we have a rule 'the first one that looks at their cellphone pays for the meal'. Being college kids this has been enough to keep them away from their phones (which I know for them isn't an easy thing to do). I love that can they endure this temporary 'hardship'. Because the time we have with them is so limited, it feels good (or actually it feels like what normal should feel like) when everyone is 'fully' engaged at the table. I know I am getting old because I can remember when there were no cellphones or the need for any rules or bribes to make those we were with feel like they mattered. Being 'fully' engaged was just the way it was (unless of course you intentionally decided to check out). If cellphones are here to stay (and in some form they will be), wouldn't it be nice if being 'fully' engaged with members of your team or your dining companion(s) wasn't one of the things that got 'lost'. Oh, even though it is getting colder outside, the temporary 'brain' freeze didn't last long.

Wednesday, January 1, 2014

Champagne Vinaigrette


If you were one of the millions who toasted in 2014 with some Champagne, your consumption of this sparkling wine may be one reserved for that yearly or those special occasion experiences. Or you might be someone who enjoys this sparkling wine on a routine, regular basis (there is at least one of my friends that I know this to be true). But have you ever wondered how in the 21st century some still associate this wine with its' early 17th century reputation? (That being a beverage considered to be one consumed only by royalty, the wealthy and the powerful, in other words, a luxury not within reach of pretty much everyone else.) Who would have thought a marketing plan conceived in the 1600s would have had a longevity lasting centuries?

So if on some level Champagne still retains some of its' centuries old reputation as an indulgence, think of how you might make your friends and family feel if you served them a salad dressed with a Champagne Vinaigrette rather than with one simply called a Vinaigrette. In borrowing (rather liberally) from some of the words in the lyrics of Lorde's song "Royals", you might just be considered the Queen Bee that lets everyone live a different kind of fantasy. I am here to tell you that your reputation as a hostess and cook could be elevated to even higher levels and is as simple as using a Champagne vinegar in your vinaigrette instead of using a balsamic, plain, apple cider or any one of those other flavored vinegars that line the shelves at the store. And as an added bonus you neither need to have champagne tastes or a champagne income to make this party on your palate vinaigrette.


The recipe for the Champagne Vinaigrette was shared by Ina Garten, the quintessential culinary Queen Bee, more than ten years ago. However, she called it a Creamy Mustard Vinaigrette, not a Champagne Vinaigrette. Not that I would presume on any level to think Ina isn't a masterfully brilliant cook (a level I only fantasize about becoming), I think if she had just named it Champagne Vinaigrette it might have gone viral and launched a whole line of bottled vinaigrettes with sales exceeding all other brands. But since Ina and I are not in the same circles (on so many levels), I have never been able to share this suggestion with her. So instead I am sharing it with YOU (and yes, I hope that someday the 'you' might also include Ina)!

All you need to make this vinaigrette are seven ingredients: Kosher salt, the yolk of a large egg, two cloves of garlic (minced), black pepper, dijon mustard, extra-virgin olive oil and, last but not least, the Champagne vinegar. Use the best quality extra-virgin olive oil you can. I have my favorites (and some have been known to be on the pricey side), but the one for less than $10.00 from Sur La Table is really, really very good.


In a medium sized bowl, you will mix together the Kosher salt, the yolk of a large egg, two cloves of garlic (minced), black pepper, dijon mustard, and Champagne vinegar. Using a whisk you will slowly add the extra-virgin olive oil. Adding the olive oil slowly is important as you want the vinaigrette to be perfectly emulsified. If you add the olive oil all in at once, it will not come together and not have a creaminess to it. That's it, that's all it takes to make this Champagne Vinaigrette. It could not be any more simple.


This vinaigrette works well with all sorts of greens. Spring mix, baby spinach, baby arugula, baby lettuces, baby Romaine, Bibb or any combination of these. Even though you don't need anything other than the Champagne Vinaigrette to make a great salad, I like to add additional textures and tastes. My favorite additional salad ingredient combination is goat cheese, sliced apples (Honey Crisps or Fujis) and dried cherries. I love how the creaminess of the goat cheese, the crispness of the apples and the tartness of the dried cherries transforms the experience of eating salad.


My second favorite salad ingredient combination is Blue Cheese (Maytag), thinly sliced red onions and toasted or glazed cinnamon pecans. The number of salad ingredient combinations are endless and might even change with the seasons. For example, in the summer you might use fresh blueberries, strawberries or blackberries instead of dried fruits. Whether you add any other ingredients or not, this vinaigrette will make having a salad for lunch or for dinner a luxury. A luxury you can afford to give yourself everyday.

Recipe
Champagne Vinaigrette (An oh so slight change to Ina Garten's Creamy Mustard Vinaigrette recipe)

Ingredients
3 Tablespoons Champagne vinegar
1/2 teaspoon Dijon mustard (recommend Maille)
2 cloves minced garlic (3 if you like a stronger garlic flavor in your salad)
1 room temperature egg yolk (from a large egg)
3/4 teaspoons Kosher salt
1/4 teaspoon black pepper
1/2 cup extra-virgin olive oil
Lettuces or salad greens of your choice (works well with a spring mix, arugula, baby spinach, baby lettuces, or a mixture of any of these)
Optional: goat cheese, dried cherries and apples or Maytag blue cheese, pecans and red onions

Directions
1. Whisk together the champagne vinegar, dijon mustard, minced garlic, egg yolk, Kosher salt, and black pepper.
2. Slowly whisk in the 1/2 cup of extra-virgin olive oil so the mixture emulsifies perfectly.
3. Dress your salad greens with enough of the vinaigrette to moisten (be careful not to over dress).
4. Serve salad as is or add your favorite combination of cheeses, fruits and nuts. The combinations are endless but my favorites are (1) goat cheese, dried cherries and sliced apples (Honey Crisp or Fuji) and (2) Maytag blue cheese, thinly sliced red onions and toasted or caramelized pecans.


I am not one to over think or dwell on New Year's resolutions. How many of us really remember what they were midway through the year?  Or is that we really just want to forget them? How many of us keep them guarded secrets as if sharing them somehow affects our ability to accomplish them? Forgive me if I cause any of you to crinkle your forehead, bang your head against the wall, or whisper 'sheesh' under your breath, but I just don't get the reason for all the secrecy around one's resolutions. Wouldn't you think the more people you have cheering you on and helping you to achieve your goals would be a good thing? Since most of us forget that list of resolutions at some point during the year anyway, it is probably not likely that someone who can't remember (and didn't accomplish) theirs will call you out if you didn't accomplish yours.

So instead of having specific goals (for all of the aforementioned reasons), I have moved to a theme based New Year's Resolution  (i.e., Life is Short). Any of you who had experienced a significant life event or ever had a health wake-up call also might have changed the lens through which you see the world, life, and even yourself. The lens of how you see the path to happiness and health might have shifted from the finite list of things to do to the figuring out of how to match and be consistent with how your intents and actions impact your life.

Starting the new year with a simple, healthy recipe on the blog just to validate my guiding theme for the year wasn't the motivator for sharing the Champagne Vinaigrette recipe today. I have been wanting to post this recipe for awhile and for some reason just never got around to it. But maybe I was subliminally pushed into posting it today. The Champagne Vinaigrette is easy and quick to make (giving me time to do other things), relatively healthy (giving me the opportunity to expend my limited number of calories on other things) and one without hard to find, expensive ingredients (giving me the ability to allocate my limited resources to a few luxuries or to save money, although I have luxury leaning tendencies which in my world fits the life is short theme). If you haven't learned this yet, I have rationalization tendencies too. Happy new year! Good luck with all that you wish and hope for for yourself in the year ahead.

Monday, December 30, 2013

Chocolate Mousse



One of my all-time favorite Jacques Torres quotes is "Life is short. Eat dessert first." So I got to thinking, maybe 2014 will be the year where we actually listen and subscribe to the wisdom of such an accomplished, distinguished master pastry chef by changing up the sequence of the courses of the meal. Okay, that really might be too much of a radical departure from the way we learned to eat. However, depending on the age (and gullibility) of your family and friends or the power of your persuasiveness, there is a possibility some might be able to be swayed into believing dessert first really should be the new normal. However, if you are surrounded by people who have some deeply entrenched beliefs or eating habits, the mere suggestion of flipping the order of the meal could leave them to think you have 'flipped'.

But come on, maybe just once we should make dessert the first course rather than the finale of the meal. Our whole perspective on eating could undergo profound changes. We might never again say or hear the phrase 'If you eat your dinner, you can have dessert' spoken again. Who knows, just the elimination of those bribing or threatening words (it all depends on one's perspective) could positively change the whole eating experience at dinner tables across the country! 'Eat your vegetables' may no longer be the words many kids (and some adult kids too) have come to think of as a fate worse than death.

I don't know about you, but more often than not I cannot eat one more bite after the 'meal'. When dining with friends in a restaurant, having dessert ends up becoming a vicarious experience no matter how compelling the dessert menu or tray looks (okay, remember I said 'more than one' bite as I have been known to take a taste of someone else's dessert.) So the concept of dessert first is rather appealing, particularly if it is something decadent and definitely made of chocolate. Something like a rich, creamy Chocolate Mousse.


Have you ever eaten a dessert that was so memorable, so delicious that it became the one by which you judged all others? For me that dessert would be Chocolate Mousse. I no longer remember where I found 'the recipe' for the Chocolate Mousse, the one that left a permanent imprint on my palate, 'the one' by which all others were judged against. No other Chocolate Mousse recipe I tried or tasted ever compared to it. I was permanently spoiled by what I thought was Chocolate Mousse perfection. There was only one problem, one serious problem. I misplaced the recipe years ago. And as many times as I went through my boxes and boxes of recipes, I couldn't find it. I felt I had no other choice than to be committed to living a Chocolate Mousse free life because nothing would be better than something. So imagine the range of emotions I experienced when a few weeks ago while searching for another recipe, I came across the 'the recipe'. The best way I can explain the euphoria I felt was by saying the experience was akin to reconnecting with a long lost soulmate.

There are only five ingredients in this Chocolate Mousse: chocolate, eggs, whipping cream, vanilla and a pinch of Kosher salt. But these five ingredients are transformed into the most insanely delicious, perfect texture confection. It is hard to believe how something so simple to make can taste like it was made by a five star restaurant pastry chef. Whether you have eaten in a five star restaurant or not, you can now create a five star dessert without ever leaving the comfort of your own home or making a serious dent in your bank account.

There are hundreds of recipes for Chocolate Mousse out there, many with the same ingredients but with different proportions. Further differentiating these recipes is the process how the mousse is made. The ingredient prepared the most differently is the whipping cream. It is how the whipping cream is used I think is just one of the reasons for putting this Chocolate Mousse in a category of its' own (which would be the to die for category). Here's the whipping cream game changer. It is not whipped and incorporated into the mixture, rather it is heated to the boiling point, used to melt the chocolate and emulsify the egg yolks. But I am getting ahead of myself.

The recipe calls for six, room temperature, large eggs separated. You will use all six yolks but only four of the egg whites. You can always use the remaining two egg whites for another recipe, so nothing goes to waste.

The kind of chocolate you decide to use matters. I prefer using a bittersweet chocolate (one with a 60% cocoa content) over a semi-sweet chocolate, but either one will work in this mousse (just know the depth of chocolate flavor will be affected). The chocolate, vanilla and salt are placed in a standard size food processor fitted with a steel blade. In a small saucepan, the whipping cream is heated to the boiling point, poured into the food processor and mixed for 30 seconds or until all of the chocolate has melted. The six egg yolks are added and mixed in for 6 seconds. This is just enough time to incorporate them without overprocessing them. The entire mixture is then transferred to a large bowl and allowed to  cool. In my experience the time it takes to beat the egg whites is all the time needed.

The four room temperature egg whites are beat until stiff in a standing mixer, or with a hand mixer or if you are really ambitious with a whisk. When egg whites are room temperature their whipped volume will be greater (a good thing).  If you over beat the egg whites, they will break down and liquify (not a good thing). The stiffly beaten egg whites are then gently folded into the chocolate mixture. Fold until no white streaks or lumps remain.


This Chocolate Mousse needs to set up in the refrigerator. So you have a decision to make after the egg whites have been fully incorporated. Either transfer the mousse mixture to a serving bowl or pour into individual ramekins, custard cups or the single serving size dishes of your choice. I like to put the entire mixture into a single bowl so that everyone can take as much or as little as they want (because sometimes you have people who only want one bite). Once you make the serving container decision, cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate for at least 8 hours or overnight (recommend chilling overnight).



As beautiful as a bowl of Chocolate Mousse may be, its' presentation has an even greater 'wow' factor when decorated with freshly whipped cream and chocolate covered espresso beans. But if you are a Chocolate Mousse purist you can serve the freshly whipped cream on the side. No matter which decision you make about the whipped cream, definitely serve it as it provides for a great balance to the thick, rich Chocolate Mousse.


I thought it fitting to have the last blog post of 2013 be a dessert. Had I given it more thought twelve months ago I would have started with dessert first to honor the spirit of Jacques Torres' words of wisdom. Hmmm, maybe I have more traditionalist leanings than I would like to believe and just fantasize about being a little bit of a radical. But regardless of how you live your life, live it as happy as possible in the year ahead. I wish you a very happy, blessed new year.

And oh, before I forget, some of you may have noticed that I have created a list of labels to help you better navigate the blog. Until I can get the search feature working better, I hope this is a time saver for you. The list of labels are under the heading 'Browse By' located in the righthand side column of the blog. 

Recipe
Chocolate Mousse


Ingredients
12 ounces of semi-sweet or bittersweet chocolate chips (My preference of chocolate chips are the Ghiradelli Bittersweet Chocolate Chips (60% cocoa content)
2 teaspoons vanilla extract
1 1/2 cups heavy whipping cream
6 egg yolks (from large eggs)
4 egg whites, room temperature (from large eggs)
pinch of Kosher salt
Optional garnishes: Freshly whipped cream and chocolate espresso beans

Directions
1. Place chocolate chips, vanilla and salt in food processor fitted with steel blade.
2. Heat whipping cream to boiling point, add to food processor and mix for 30 seconds until chocolate has melted.
3. Add egg yolks and mix for 6 seconds. Transfer to a large glass bowl to allow to cool.
4. Whip egg whites to stiff peak stage. Gently fold egg whites into chocolate mixture until no white streaks remain. Transfer to serving bowl or whatever serving dishes you want to use.
5. Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate overnight.
6. Top with piped whipped cream and chocolate espresso beans or serve the whipped cream on the side.


I really do believe the 'life is short' part of the Jacques Torres quote. I am not sure this is because I am getting older and have so many things left on my list to do and experience. Or whether it is because I have been witness to and experienced the impact of 'time and distance' or even the 'I am really busy' decisions I or others have made. Regrettably, I have been guilty of putting time and distance between myself and others in times of conflict particularly if they aren't high on my list of those important to me. And as a result, it has sometimes affected a friendship or a relationship. Not that we can't make repairs (we can if we want to), how long it takes us to make them often determines whether or not the conflicts are 'done, over with and forgotten' or ones that chip away at trust. There is a reason why procrastination has gotten such a bad rap.

With the tradition of setting new year's resolutions less than 48 hours away, I already know what is going to be on the top of my list. And no, it's not eating dessert first! Having 'lived alone' for the past two years has changed as well as reinforced some of the things I believe really matter. Those things are not things at all, but people, more specifically, the people in my life who have brought and continue to bring immeasurable value to it. As much as I am one who believes in the concept of second chances, I have lived long enough to know that sometimes we don't always get that second chance. Yes, 2014 will be the year guided by the mantra 'life is short'. Yes, this will be my simple little reminder to always keep both the short and the long views of life in mind.

Saturday, December 28, 2013

Potato Leek Gratin

With the Christmas holiday dinner now behind us, some of us are beginning to plan the New Year's Day menu. I say some (versus many or all) because how the first day of the new year is celebrated varies greatly from family to family, from region to region. For some, New Year's Day is a laid back sort of day and not the 'having company over for Sunday dinner' kind of day I grew up with. For others it is eating those foods believed to bring good luck, good fortune, and good health in the year ahead, those foods that have this magical 'change your fate' quality only one day a year. And then there are those recovering from the New Year's Eve revelry, where the sight of food is less than a welcome sight.  But regardless of our traditions, beliefs or state of soberness, unless one begins the year with a day of fasting, we all need to eat something.


So why not begin the year eating a Potato Leek Gratin? It is quite possible that this insanely delicious gratin also has its' own magical qualities. The qualities of making for a very happy start to the new year and an even happier belly. If you are thinking there is nothing 'lucky' in the Potato Leek Gratin, think again. The circular sliced potatoes and leeks as well as leeks being green make this a gratin one containing two lucky foods in one dish! And hey if you make a baked ham or pork roast to go with it, you will be serving everyone a meal that further increases their short and long term good fortune!


For those of you who don't or haven't leeks but like the flavors of onion and garlic, you will love this vegetable. Leeks belong to onion and garlic, otherwise known as, a member of the genus Allium family. The white base and light green portions of the leek have a mild onion-like taste. While they can be eaten raw, however, when sautéed they are transformed into something incredibly delicious. For the gratin, four pounds of leeks are sliced into 1/4 inch rings, soaked or rinsed in water to remove any dirt and then paper towel dried.


In a large non-stick frying pan, first melt five tablespoons of butter before adding the sliced, dried leeks. At the start of this sautéing process, sprinkle 1 1/2 Tablespoons of Kosher (not table) salt. I know it seems like alot of salt, but don't worry, I promise you it is not too much. The leeks are cooked on medium heat for approximately 20 minutes or until they are tender. During the cooking process you will place a lid on the pan and stir occasionally. If you are not using a non-stick pan, you may have to stir a little more frequently to ensure you do not burn the leeks.

After the leeks have been sautéed, you will add the thyme, white pepper, and whipping cream. You will continue cooking this mixture uncovered on low-medium heat until it has thickened. This will take about 15 minutes. When thickened, remove from the heat and set aside. I will warn you now that when you taste this mixture when it is finished cooking, you will want to sit there and eat the entire pan. It is addictively delicious. But try to show some restraint and patience as the finished gratin is even more delicious.


In the making of this gratin, I went back and forth on deciding which potatoes to use. Russets or Yukon Golds, Russets or Yukon Golds, Russets or Yukon Golds. I was starting to make this decision more complicated and more expensive than it needed to be (at the grocery store I bought both of them). So I took a deep breath, read through a multitude of gratin recipes and learned that these two potatoes were considered to be interchangeable. The choice of potato one makes appeared mostly to be on personal preference, however, Yukon Golds are known to have a slightly more buttery and less starchy flavor than the Russets. In gratins where there is added flavor from cheeses and heavy cream one might not taste a difference between the two potatoes. But I had to make a decision or this gratin was at risk for not being made. You can probably guess which potato I went with. Yes, it was the Yukon Golds.

The original recipe called for peeling and slicing the potatoes into 1/4 inch slices, but I thought the slices would be too thick and 1/8 inch too thin. So I decided to make 3/8 inch slices. This turned out to be a good decision.



There are different, repeated layers in this gratin. Using a large glass or ceramic baking dish greased with a tablespoon of butter, you begin the process by layering one third of the potatoes. The second layer is 1/3 of the leek mixture, the third layer is 1/3 of the grated Gruyere and Parmigiano-Reggiano mixture, and the last layer is one tablespoon of chopped chives. The layering process is repeated two more times, however, the last tablespoon of chopped chives are saved until the Potato Leek gratin has finished baking and is ready to be served.


Once assembled, the gratin is covered with aluminum foil and placed in a preheated 400 degree oven where it is baked for 45 minutes. The foil cover is removed and the gratin continues baking for another 30 minutes or until the top is golden brown. The Potato Leek Gratin needs to rest for 10 to 15 minutes before serving. While it rested I loosely covered it with aluminum foil.

I debated about whether or not I could assemble this gratin the day before I was baking it, but had some slight trepidation about whether or not the potatoes would turn gray if refrigerated overnight. However, because I other things to make for dinner, I did refrigerate the gratin for several hours before baking. Since there was no change to the color of the Yukon Golds, I would (with confidence) encourage you to make and assemble this gratin earlier in the day as it does take some time to put together. But for your investment of time, you will be greatly rewarded. Seriously, this could be one of the dishes placed on the sacred 'last meal request' list. But I doubt very much that I will wait that long until I make it again. 

Recipe
Potato Leek Gratin (slight adaptation to a Williams-Sonoma recipe)

Ingredients
5 Tablespoons unsalted butter plus 1 Tablespoon to grease the baking dish
4 pounds leeks, white and light green portions, cut into 1/4 inch rings and rinsed
1 1/2 Tablespoons Kosher salt
1 teaspoon fresh thyme, minced
3/4 teaspoon white pepper
1 cup heavy whipping cream
6 ounces Gruyere cheese, grated
3 ounces Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese, freshly grated
3 pounds Yukon Gold (or Russet) potatoes, peeled and cut into 3/8 inch slices
3 Tablespoons minced fresh chives, divided

Directions
1. In a large non-stick fry plan, melt the butter. Add the leeks and salt, stirring to coat the leeks with the butter.
2. Cook leeks until they are tender. Stir occasionally and keep pan covered. Will take approximately 20 minutes.
3. When leeks are tender, add thyme, pepper and whipping cream. Simmer until thickened (about 15 minutes). Keep pan uncovered and continue to stir occasionally.
4. Remove from heat and set cooked leek mixture aside.
5. Using one tablespoon of unsalted butter, grease a large 9 by 13 ceramic or glass baking dish (I like using a large oval baking dish). 
6. Preheat oven to 400 degrees.
7. In a medium sized bowl combine the grated cheeses. Set aside.
8. Layer one-third of the sliced Yukon Gold potatoes on the bottom of the baking dish. Spread one-third of the leek mixture on top of the potatoes. Sprinkle one-third of the cheese mixture. Finally sprinkle one tablespoon of the chopped chives.
9. Repeat layering process two more times (reserving 1 tablespoon of chives).
10. Cover the baking dish with aluminum foil and bake for 45 minutes. Remove the foil and continue baking until the potatoes are tender and top is golden brown (about 30 minutes).
11. Remove from oven, cover loosely with foil and allow to rest for 10-15 minutes before serving.
12. Sprinkle the remaining tablespoon of chives and serve.
Note: The Potato Leek Gratin goes perfectly with Beef Tenderloin. It would also be a great accompaniment to a baked ham or roasted chicken.


aaltedsugaredspiced.com was conceived 364 days ago. And now we are just a day away from its' one year anniversary. Like most endeavors (and relationships) I enter into, I jumped into it not knowing whether it would last, how it might evolve, or if I would stay committed (you know the slightly more reckless just 'do' versus the 'think, think, maybe, maybe not do' approach to life). However, what I knew was that its' sustainability or demise would, in large part, be my ability to give it the time and attention it needed as well as how I dealt with any of the obstacles I encountered along the way (because life is messy and it always has obstacles). As excited as I was about 'giving birth' to the blog, there was a part of me that thought it would be one followed only by a few of my friends who would cheer me on (their early and regular feedback meant much to me as it helped to keep me going). Yet, I also hoped it would also become a blog that would also take on a life of its own, one that would be read beyond this little posse of mine. But since I had never been on this type of journey before, I didn't know whether I should go out on the limb of high expectations or just play it safe and not have any. I ended up settling somewhere between the two ends of the expectation continuum.

On this almost one year anniversary of the blog, it appears that my compromised expectations were not just realized but exceeded. So to all of you who have followed this blog over the course of the year, I thank you!!! Not only for taking the time to read through the descriptions of the recipes but also for reading my musings about the lens through which I see the world, see life. As it turned out this blog became more than just a food blog.

Anniversaries of all kinds and birthdays have always been regarded (in my world) as noteworthy occasions. And so for me saltedsugaredspiced's impending one year anniversary is indeed a noteworthy one. Why? First, because there were moments when I wanted to walk away from the blog as it was much harder and more time consuming than I thought it would be. Every so often I needed to remind myself that those endeavors bringing us the greatest satisfaction and euphoric joy do indeed take work and commitment. And second, this blog was something I dreamt about creating for a very, very long time but had procrastinated in launching it because I came up with all sorts of reasons why I couldn't instead of focusing my energies on why I should (you know that old glass half-empty or half full lens).

Where saltedsugaredspiced goes or takes me in the year ahead I do not know for certain (but if I have the Leek Potato Gratin with a baked ham and eat some grapes on New Year's Day, the possibilities could be endlessly amazing!). But what I do know is that this is a journey I am looking forward to continuing, learning and growing from. I really do hope you will stay with me on it.