Sunday, May 4, 2014

Chorizo and Egg Piperade

I had every intention of posting a recipe in honor of Cinco de Mayo this week but as they say, best laid plans sometimes go bust. The nexus for this change was spending the day with my childhood best friend on Saturday. Yes, this sounds a little like I am blaming her when in actuality I should be really be thanking her. By late mid-morning we had been to the French Market, to a grocery store to pick up some fresh chorizo, and to the Container Store to pick up some baskets all before heading back to my house for lunch. It was barely noon and we had enjoyed a glass of wine while I made lunch, sat down to eat what turned out to be an amazing dish, and enjoyed a glass of moonshine.  Yes, moonshine (such recklessness on a Saturday afternoon). However, before I go any further, I need to be on record saying that neither the wine nor the moonshine nor our state of hunger influenced our opinion of the Chorizo and Egg Piperade we ate for lunch. Without a doubt this was a dish worthy of being placed on my last meal list, a list reserved for those foods where it would be a mortal, yes mortal, sin to leave this earth without having its' flavors eternally lingering on your palate. 


One bite of this dish and I knew I needed to share it with you sooner rather than later. Showing restraint for my enthusiasm has never been one of my personality traits. Besides I am pretty certain there will be more than enough Cinco de Mayo recipes posted on food blogs this week.


Before making this recipe I had never eaten a Piperade so I was a little curious as to its' origin. I discovered piperade is geographically attributed to Basque Country, an area located in the western Pyrenees spanning the borders between France and Spain on the Atlantic Coast (having never traveled to Basque Country might explain my culinary cluelessness here). A piperade is often made of sautéed onions, green peppers and tomatoes, with garlic, eggs or ham sometimes added. So, if one uses a Spanish chorizo in the making of a piperade would it be fair to say such a version has more of a Spanish than French influence? To answer that question correctly I guess I need to get out a little more.


Before I moved to the east coast, I thought there was only kind of chorizo, that being Mexican chorizo. I quickly learned from all of my Portuguese friends there were actually two kinds: the Spanish or Portuguese Chorizo and the Mexican Chorizo. And they could not be more different from one another. The Spanish/Portuguese version of this sausage gets its distinctive smokiness and deep red color from dried smoked red peppers (pimenton) while the flavor of the Mexican version comes from the use of native chili peppers. Think of the Spanish/Portuguese chorizo as smoky sublime and the Mexican chorizo as smoky hot.

The Spanish/Portuguese Chorizo comes fresh or dried. The recipe inspiring this piperade called for the use of either the fresh or dried types. I don't know what the dried version would taste like, I only know the fresh version (isn't fresh almost always best?) of the Spanish Chorizo is what added to the phenomenalness (forgive me if this not a word) of this piperade.

Three tablespoons of extra-virgin olive oil are heated over medium heat in large skillet. Once heated, a half-pound of fresh Spanish Chorizo sausage (removed from its casing and crumbled) is added and cooked until the sausage is browned and beginning to crisp (about 8 to 10 minutes of cooking time). Note: If you are going to use the skillet as your serving dish, do not use a non-stick skillet when beginning the cooking process as not all non-stick skillets can endure high oven temperatures.

Two red bell peppers sliced, three cloves of garlic minced and one medium or two small yellow onions sliced make up the vegetable trinity in this piperade.


After the chorizo has browned, the peppers, garlic and onions are immediately added. Stirring frequently, the vegetables are cooked until softened and slightly browned. Cooking time is approximately 18-20 minutes.  Remember to season with some Kosher salt to taste before going any further.

You have a decision to make once the chorizo and vegetables are cooked. The mixture can be equally divided into 4 or 6 baking dishes/ramekins, can be transferred to another baking dish or left in the skillet. Your choice of cooking/serving container will be influenced by your serving presentation. My vote is for serving a more rustic looking, in the skillet piperade.


Depending on the size of your skillet or serving dish, you will need anywhere between 6 and 8 large eggs.


If baking the eggs in the pan, make as many indentations in the sausage/vegetable mixture as needed for the number of eggs you will be cracking into them. For the size skillet I used, 6 large eggs fit perfectly.


The eggs are baked in a preheated 400 degree oven for approximately 12 minutes or until the eggs have just set. If you don't like your egg yolks a little on the runny side, your baking time might be a minute or two longer. Before serving, season with a little Kosher or sea salt. 

I made this dish for lunch, but it would also be for great for breakfast, brunch or dinner. Regardless of which meal you decide to make the Chorizo and Egg Piperade for, serving it with a freshly sliced baguette or toast will both complete and compliment it. 

Recipe
Chorizo and Egg Piperade (Inspired by the Piperade recipe created by Jody Williams from Buvette)

Ingredients
3 Tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
1/2 pound fresh Spanish chorizo (sausage), casings removed and crumbled
2 red bell peppers, seeded and sliced (or use a combination of red, yellow and/or orange bell peppers)
1 medium or 2 small yellow onions, peeled and sliced
3 garlic cloves, minced
6 to 8 large eggs
Kosher salt and/or sea salt
Fresh sliced baguette or toast for serving

Directions
1. Preheat oven to 400 degrees.
2. Heat three tablespoons of extra-virgin olive oil in a large skillet. Add crumbled Spanish chorizo sausage and cook until browned and slightly crispy (about 10 minutes).
3. Add peppers, onions and garlic. Stirring frequently, cook until vegetables are softened and lightly browned. Season with Kosher salt. (Cooking time approximately 18-20 minutes).
4. Remove from heat, create 6 to 8 indentations in mixture. Crack a large egg into each indentation.
5. Place skillet in oven and bake for approximately 12 minutes or until eggs have just set.
6. Season with Kosher or sea salt and serve with a sliced baguette or toast.
Note: The sausage and vegetable mixture can be transferred to 4 or 6 small baking dishes/ramekins or to another casserole dish before adding the egg(s) instead of finishing the baking in the skillet.

On Saturday I was reminded why spontaneity can be so much fun. There is much to be said for the exhilaration you feel when you don't put time limits around spending time with a friend, when you don't have the day all planned out, or even when you try something or go somewhere new. Somedays we can get so caught up in having to get everything done on the to do list (there will always be a to do do list) we sometimes cannot see the forest through the trees.

An unplanned drive through the backroads or taking the longer, more scenic route drive back home can turn an ordinary excursion into an extraordinary one. Having a longer more leisurely lunch instead of checking our watches to see how much time has passed can redefine what it means to spend quality time with a friend. The loss of sleep from staying up late or getting up early to bake some cookies to bring to a friend is more than made up for when you see the surprised smile on their face. Oh, just think of things we miss out on when we live by the self-imposed 'I am too busy' time limits we place on ourselves. Those best laid plans you had for the day.....sometimes you just need to let them go.

Thursday, May 1, 2014

Pimento Cheese


During college I traveled to Florida with some of my sorority sisters for spring break. A trip where my path crossed with a born and raised boy from Kentucky. Two months later I found myself on a bus to Louisville for a Kentucky Derby weekend. In spite of being a sorority girl, nothing in my prior experiences prepared me for the rituals and revelry of the Derby. Nothing. Somehow I managed to survive the slippery slope of one of Kentucky's most significant cultural events (being a little naive turned out to be a bit of blessing). Little did I know driving in a police escorted motorcade to a brunch at the Governor's Mansion and sitting in boxed seats at Churchill Downs wasn't exactly the way everyone experienced the Derby.

And then, of course, there were the Derby parties. At one of those parties I had second or third taste of a Mint Julep and my first taste of pimento cheese. More specifically a pimento cheese finger sandwich made with soft pillowy white bread. I am not sure if it was the pimento cheese on white bread or the need to have something in my stomach after a long day of drinking, but I was immediately smitten with one of the South's iconic dishes. Why Pimento Cheese, sometimes referred to as the caviar of the South, never really worked its' way into the North with the same affinity it has in the South remains a mystery to me. It wasn't the only thing I was smitten with that weekend.


After this love at first bite experience it would be years before Pimento Cheese came back into my life. During the five plus months I lived in Mississippi I may have consumed more than my fair share of Pimento Cheese. If it wasn't served at a social gathering it was sold in just about every grocery store. However, the pimento cheese sold at the grocery store didn't really compare to the ones homemade. Sort of like most chocolate chip cookies sold at any one of the bakery-cafe chains across the country don't really compare to the homemade versions. And just like a great homemade chocolate chip cookie, a great pimento cheese seems to be all about the ingredients one uses.


As the first week of May and the Kentucky Derby approaches, I found myself craving the taste of Pimento Cheese. There are as many Pimento Cheese recipes out there as there are ones for chocolate chip cookies, with each recipe claiming to be the best, most authentic, traditional version of this Southern staple. So after reading recipe after recipe there were some consistent themes. First, Pimento Cheese must be made with pimentos not with roasted red bell peppers. Pimentos are a variety of the heart shaped chili pepper and are a little sweeter than the red bell pepper. I can't seem to visualize Southern cooks standing over a grill roasting red peppers back in the early 1900's and for some reason I am not sure grocery stores were selling jars of roasted red peppers back then (but I could be wrong on both counts here.) Regardless, I needed to find a recipe calling for the use of pimentos, not roasted red bell peppers.

Having grown up on Hellman's mayonnaise I have long considered it to be best jarred mayonnaise on the planet. Like me, there are quite a few Southern cooks and chefs who are equally as passionate about jarred mayonnaise. Particularly when it comes to their Pimento Cheese recipes. Spoiler: They aren't recommending Hellman's. Rather they are recommending Duke's mayonnaise. Described as having no added sugar and more egg yolks giving it a richness more closely associated with homemade, this mayonnaise gives Hellman's a run for it's money. So I knew I needed to get my hands on a jar of Duke's mayonnaise if I was going to make an authentic'Southern Caviar'.

Finally, after going back and forth deciding which recipe to make I decided to go with one developed by a chef from Charleston, South Carolina. Hoping of course that a recipe from someone born and raised in the South would have the right amount of authenticity to it. With recipe and ingredients in hand, I was finally ready to make some homemade Pimento Cheese.



This is a one bowl recipe. The grated cheese, chopped and drained pimento, thinly sliced green onions, mayonnaise, salt, black pepper, cayenne pepper and a dash of hot sauce are gently mixed with a spatula until just combined. The entire mixture is then refrigerated for at least two hours or overnight to allow the flavors to develop. And after the first bite of this Pimento Cheese recipe, it tasted better than I remembered. It had the right amount of creaminess, the right amount of 'bite'.

Pimento Cheese has often been served on white bread, crusts removed of course. However, this is where you can break with tradition. Crostini, sliced bread sticks, pita chips, crackers, and celery all perfectly compliment the flavor of Pimento Cheese. If you have never had this below the Mason Dixon Line cheese spread, you are missing out on one of the more endearing Southern food traditions. Besides, what else would you serve on Kentucky Derby weekend? 

Recipe
Pimento Cheese (recipe inspired by one created by Sarah O'Kelley, a chef from Charleston, South Carolina)
Post updated May 2019.

Ingredients
2 cups (8 ounces net weight) sharp cheddar cheese, coarsely grated
1/2 to 3/4 generous cup mayonnaise (in keeping with the Southern tradition, recommend Duke's mayonnaise) 
1/2 cup (4 ounce jar) pimiento peppers (drained and chopped)
1/4 cup green onion, both green and white parts), thinly sliced (about 3 - 4 onions)
1/2 teaspoon black pepper
1/2 teaspoon Kosher salt
1/4 teaspoon cayenne pepper
Dash of hot sauce (Tabasco or Cholula Hot Sauce)
Sliced baguette and sliced celery sticks (and/or white bread with crusts removed)

Directions
1. Combine all ingredients in a medium bowl. Stir with a spatula to combine. Note: Start by adding only 1/2 cup of the mayonnaise. Continue adding until it reaches the desired consistency.
2. Allow the mixture to chill at least 2 hours or overnight to allow the flavors to marinate.
3. Serve with crackers, pita chips, sliced bread sticks, crostini, (white) bread with crusts removed, and/or celery sticks.

Notes: (1) Recommending using a 3 to 5 year old aged cheddar. (2) Traditionally the Pimento Cheese is served on white bread (crusts removed) finger sandwiches The original photos on the post showed that presentation. However, I prefer serving it in a bowl surrounded by slices of a baguette and celery sticks.

One of the many benefits of having lived in different places is developing an appreciation for different foods. The diversity of regional and ethnical foods is also one of the benefits of traveling. From local 'dives' to the high end restaurants, there is no better way to experience a city. I can still remember the taste of the barbecue from a restaurant (or rather a kind of a shack which was really a gambling place that just happened to serve food made in one of the tiniest of kitchens I have ever seen) some of my co-workers took me to when I lived in Mississippi. We drove to one of the parishes in Louisiana late one night (my concept of a parish was strongly influenced by my Catholic upbringing, a concept that my peers found rather amusing) to experience what they claimed was the best barbecue in the South. Everything about the 'restaurant' including the drive down a long dirt road in the dark made me a little anxious. All I could think was this was going to be some of the best food or some of the worst (if we first didn't get arrested for being in a place having what seemed like some illegal gambling going on.) But any worries I had about a police raid completely disappeared after tasting the barbecue on my plate. Nothing since has ever compared to that barbecue. 

And then there are some regionally made foods I believe you need to grow up with to truly love. I was never able to appreciate the calamari made the Rhode Island way as my palate just seemed unable to make the transition from the calamari I was accustomed to eating here in the midwest. For me, something about the vinegar and sweet cherry pepper topping seemed to detract from the deliciousness of the calamari. My east coast friends could never understand why I didn't love 'their' calamari. 

One thing for certain is I wouldn't have known whether this would be a food I would love or not unless I first tasted it. I have always wondered why someone would outright dismiss trying something new without at least first tasting it. I am not talking about extreme, bizarre or exotic foods here, I am talking about the foods most of us have been exposed to our entire lives, but are prepared 'differently' from the way we have eaten them. You never know when you are a bite away from something that could possibly be the most incredible/scream-worthy/euphoria inducing/addictive food unless you try it. For me, the worst thing that can happen is tasting something so over-the-top/amazing and then never being able to taste it again. If only I knew how to get back to the 'place' at the end of that long dark dirt road.

Sunday, April 27, 2014

Uova al Forno aka Baked Eggs

On Saturday the French Market (aka Farmer's Market) opened for the season. Having lived away for almost three years, I wasn't quite sure if the market would be as good as, better than, or not as good as the one I remembered. I was barely down one of the aisles when my heart started to race and I became almost giddy as it became clear this market was definitely better than the one I remembered. How is it that shopping in a French market can create a kind of euphoria normally not experienced at the grocery store? I can answer that in two words: fresh eggs. Discovering I could again buy fresh eggs from now until at least October was one of those too good to be true pinch myself moments.


Adding to joy of the week was yet another discovery. That being the newly published cookbook Buvette: The Pleasure of Good Food written by Jody Williams. The recipes, narratives and photographs (oh, the photographs) were all so compelling, I want to make everything in this cookbook. And I mean everything. Finding fresh eggs at the French Market made the 'which recipe to make first decision' so much easier. And I could hardly wait to make Uova al Forna (aka Baked Eggs), eggs baked in a delicious sauce made of tomatoes, onions, garlic, red chili flakes and smoked bacon, then topped with freshly grated Pecorino Romano cheese.

Uova al Forno is not just a breakfast or brunch dish. It would be equally delicious for dinner, maybe like a Sunday night dinner. Served with a crusty french baguette and some wine, it would be the perfect way to end the weekend. Although I baked this dish in small ramekins, it can also be baked in a casserole dish or the frying pan used to cook the bacon and onion. For large gatherings I would definitely serve the Uova al Forno in a casserole dish.


You will need at least four and up to eight large eggs (no they don't have to be fresh eggs, but if you can get them....). There is something about having a wedge of Pecorino Romano cheese for grating to add a little drama to the presentation. Any smoked bacon will work, however, you will need about an inch thick slice of bacon so it can be cut into half inch lardons. Most grocery stores these days sell 'unsliced' bacon to be cut in whatever thickness you need. It just so happened that the one inch thick slice of the bacon I bought was a perfect half-pound, the amount needed for this dish.


The base of the sauce begins with a 28 ounce can of whole San Marzano tomatoes crushed by hand. I was tempted to buy the already crushed can of tomatoes, but I am glad I didn't. Not just because I would have missed out on the hand crushing experience, but because the lack of uniformity of the size of hand crushed tomato pieces adds perfect texture to this dish. Minced garlic and a pinch of Aleppo pepper are sautéed for about 30 seconds in extra-virgin olive oil in a medium sized sauce pan. The hand crushed tomatoes are poured in and the mixture is brought to a boil. Once it reaches a boil, reduce heat to low and simmer for approximately 30 minutes or until slightly thickened.


When the recipe called for bacon to be cut into lardons, I honestly have to say that was a concept not in my everyday vocabulary. While it is just another word for thick strips or cubes, the advantage of cutting the bacon into lardons is the flavor foundation it creates. When placed into a hot frying pan the thick bacon strips or lardons and cooked for 2 to 3 minutes, which is enough time for its fat to be rendered. The rendered fat is used to sauté and add more flavor to the thickly sliced onions.

Stirring frequently, the bacon and onions are cooked over medium heat for approximately 20 minutes or until the onions are softened and lightly browned and the bacon pieces become slightly crisp. 


The slightly thickened tomato and garlic mixture is added to the pan with the cooked bacon and onion. Stir to combine making sure you scrape up the bits of brownness (this is where lots of flavor resides) on the bottom of the pan. If using ramekins, evenly divide the mixture so that the onions and bacon are evenly distributed. After making a well or indentation into each ramekin crack in a large egg.


In a preheated 400 degree oven, the ramekins are baked for 12 to 20 minutes. The recipe in Buvette indicated that the baking time should be approximately12 minutes, however, my eggs were not slightly set until they were baked for almost 20 minutes. This may have been because I baked them in the center versus the upper third of the oven. Next time I will bake them in the upper third of the oven and begin watching for doneness at 12 minutes. Lightly salt and pepper each ramekin before generously grating Pecorino Romano cheese over the top.


Definitely serve the Uova al Forno with thick cut slices of a toasted baguette or Italian country loaf. If you make this dish in a casserole dish or frying pan, be prepared for some at the table to jockey themselves so they are in as close proximity to the dish as possible. Why? Because mopping the toasted bread in the tomato/bacon/onion sauce only adds to the eating experience of this dish. It would be a sin to leave any of this incredibly flavored sauce uneaten.


Uova al Forno aka Baked Eggs (inspired by a recipe created by Jody Williams and shared in Buvette)

Ingredients
28 ounce can whole peeled San Marzano tomatoes (with juice)
2 Tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
Pinch of Aleppo pepper
1 large clove of garlic, peeled and minced
1 1/2 teaspoons Kosher salt
1/2 pound smoked bacon (one inch thick), cut into 1/2 inch thick slices
1 large yellow onion, peeled and thickly sliced (about 1/3 inch thick)
4 to 8 large eggs
Pecorino Romano Cheese, grated
Salt and pepper

Directions
1. Preheat oven to 400 degrees.
2. In a medium sized bowl, pour in tomatoes and juice. Break up tomatoes into small chunks using your hands.
3. In a medium sized sauce pan, heat olive oil. Add minced garlic and pinch of Aleppo pepper. Sauté for 30 seconds. Add tomatoes and salt. Bring mixture to boil, then reduce heat and allow to simmer for approximately 30 minutes or until slightly thickened.
4. Cook bacon in large frying pan over high heat for 2 to 3 minutes or until the fat has rendered (turn the bacon at least once).
5. Add onions, reduce heat to medium and cook until onions are softened and slightly browned. Bacon will be a tiny bit crisp. Stirring occasionally cooking time will be approximately 20 minutes.
6. Transfer tomato mixture into pan with bacon and onions, stirring to remove all bits on bottom of pan.
7. Baking options: Divide the tomato/bacon/onion mixture between four ramekins, place tomato/bacon/onion mixture in an ovenproof casserole dish or leave in frying pan. 
8. Make an indentation in the sauce cracking eggs directly into them. (Note: If using ramekins, use 1 or 2 eggs. If using a casserole dish or frying pan, use 8 eggs.)
9. Bake until eggs are just about set. (Note: Baking time could range from 12 to 20 minutes depending on baking dish and where rack is placed in the oven.)
10. Lightly salt and pepper. Generously grate Pecorino Romano cheese on top. Serve immediately.


The other day my niece favorited a posting on my Facebook page as well as one of my tweets. While she has done this before, there was something about the same day favoriting that made me think 'something is up'. My hunch was confirmed later in the evening when she texted the family group about getting tickets for an upcoming One Republic concert. Of course this text came less than eight hours before the window for buying the tickets opened (yes she is college freshman with a busy life, but she is also one clever enough to know the importance of timing as well as the impact flattery might have). After a series of texts going back and forth somehow I ended up being the one having to get online in the wee hours of the morning to purchase the tickets. Or rather I ended up being the one having to experience the pressure of actually getting the tickets before they were sold out. But such is life. And if the only thing I had to worry about was getting concert tickets, well that wouldn't be such a bad life.

Over the years I think we all develop a sixth sense about when someone is about to ask us for something or influence us in order they get what they want or need. Maybe its because we learn how to do this rather early. Haven't we all been a little extra good before a birthday or Christmas? Haven't we all been positively rewarded for this, if not consistently, then at least inconsistently? If it worked for most us as kids, we keep using this what I will call the 'flattery getting in your good graces' strategy as adults. Sometimes this strategy is very transparent and sometimes it is very subtle. I am pretty certain my niece thought she was being subtle. But regardless of whether she was being little more or less obvious, at the end of the day, her strategy still worked. It worked not because I am that gullible or such a pushover, it worked because of how much love there is between us. I only wish I had figured out a way first to get her to want to go to this concert with me. So for now I will just let her think that her strategy really worked.

Thursday, April 24, 2014

Blue Cheese Spread

Apparently looking back in the rear view mirror is now being called Throwback Thursday. The day where one selectively posts a photo or shares a memory of themselves on any one of the social media venues out there. Up until now I haven't jumped in this relatively new phenomenon. Could it be I am slow to be 'hip' or worse yet, a social 'outlier'? Shudder the thought. But just in case I am delusional about myself, I decided to throw myself into this phenomenon and change my social status, so to speak. However, technically this throwback doesn't belong to my collection of memories, it belongs to one of my friends. The discovery of this Blue Cheese Spread recipe goes back twenty-five years when she and her husband were at Domaine Chandon in Napa. While they were definitely not there for the Blue Cheese Spread, it was one of the many memorable takeaways and it also became a timeless classic recipe in their household. And one (along with some champagne) that could be guaranteed to throw them back to their first visit there (and not only on Thursdays).


There really isn't anything better than having an easy go-to, can be put together in minutes recipe. As much as I have a tendency to skew to the more labor intensive appetizer recipes (a glutton for punishment or more is better thinking?), I secretly love simple. Especially when simple involves a great blue cheese, fresh herbs and a baguette.

You can make the Blue Cheese Spread look retro (or should I say a little throwback) by shaping it into a ball. Or you can spread it out on a platter or serve in a bowl. So many presentation options for something that takes so little time to make. 


My two favorite blue cheeses are Maytag (made in Iowa) and Point Reyes Blue (made in California). Both would work perfectly in this spread. I generally prefer to buy a wedge of blue cheese versus blue cheese crumbles. One can always turn a wedge into crumbles, but cannot turn crumbles into a wedge. Because sometimes you just want to serve a wedge of cheese.


Softened cream cheese is mixed with a half-cup or two ounces of the blue cheese of your choice in a small bowl. To soften the cream cheese, you can leave it out of the refrigerator for several hours or overnight.


Two tablespoons of finely chopped chives and flat leaf parsley are added next. When I was making this spread I was wishing I had the chives and parsley I had planted at the east coast farmhouse. So until I grow pots of herbs here in the midwest, the herbs available at the grocery store have to do.


Two to three tablespoons of chopped, roasted walnuts (baked for 10-12 minutes in a preheated 350 degree oven) are mixed in last. And that is it. You are done. It doesn't get any easier. You can make this spread early in the day or make it just before serving. If you make early in the day, remove from the refrigerator about an hour before serving so it spreads easily.


The only 'hard' part of this recipe is making the what to serve with the Blue Cheese Spread decision. A sliced baguette, crostini, crackers, sliced apples, sliced pears? So many delicious options. 

Blue Cheese Spread (aka Patty's world famous spread inspired by a recipe created by Domaine Chandon)
Ingredients
8 ounces cream cheese, softened (recommend Philadelphia Brand)
2 ounces (weighed on scale) or 1/2 generous cup blue cheese, crumbled (recommend either Maytag Blue or Point Reyes Blue Cheese)
2 Tablespoons flat leaf parsley, finely chopped
2 Tablespoons chives, finely chopped
1/4 cup walnuts, toasted and chopped (plus additional for sprinkling on top)
Baguette slices, crostini, crackers and/or freshly sliced pears or apples
Champagne, wine, beer
Optional: Serve along with dried apricots and/or fresh seedless grapes.

Directions
1. Mix softened cream cheese and blue cheese crumbles until thorough combined.
2. Mix in chopped herbs and half of the toasted walnuts.
3. Arrange spread on platter or place in bowl. 
4. Sprinkle top of blue cheese spread with remaining chopped walnuts and/or some additional chopped chives.
5. Serve immediately with baguette slices, crostini or crackers.
Note: If refrigerated, allow to sit out at least one hour before serving.


There is another back story to this recipe. Recently my friend's husband posted a picture of a plate of crackers and a smear of the blue cheese spread on his Facebook page. It wasn't the photo that captured my attention (even though it really did look delicious), it was the words accompanying the picture. He was giving a shout out to his wife for her world famous spread. I mean seriously, how cool is that? You might say he is definitely a man who knows how to make his wife feel like no one else could possibly compare to her (or her Blue Cheese Spread). More importantly, he is someone who also knows both words (he is probably one of the best storytellers on the planet) and actions matter.

A quote found this week "We can't always find the right words to say, but our actions often say enough. After all, they tend to speak louder than words" along with reading the Facebook posting resonated with me. They reminded me how great it is when you have those in your life where their words are inseparable from their actions. But if expecting to give or receive both is too much, well then at the end of the day, remember actions might really matter most and might just be the most telling.

Sunday, April 20, 2014

German Chocolate Cake

For weeks I have had a terrible craving for German Chocolate cake. And for weeks I have been resisting the urge to make it. 'Wait' (my most unfavorite four letter word) I kept saying to myself. This was followed by wait for 'what'? A birthday, a holiday, a gathering? Does one really need a reason to make cake? Couldn't the reason be 'just because'? Well the answer is YES, however, I did wait until Easter to make it (thankfully the world did not come to an untimely end before this cake was made). I was assigned dessert with the expectation it would be something made of chocolate. In other words 'Go chocolate or go home'. So I thought a German Chocolate Cake would be the most perfect Easter dessert and I must confess it would also deal with the craving I was restraining myself from satisfying. A win-win! But really, what is not to like about a lush, deep dark chocolate cake, rich coconut and toasted pecan filling, and a little bit of chocolate frosting?

As a kid growing up my father used to bring home a German Chocolate cake (back in the days when grocery stores made cakes from scratch) from the grocery store (he was the one who did all of the grocery shopping). I was the culprit in the family who would scrape off the coconut and pecan frosting leaving the cake behind. One would think for as many times as I got in trouble for eating just the frosting that I would have learned to eat both the cake and frosting. For whatever the reason, I didn't. It wasn't until years later that I learned to appreciate the eating of both the frosting and the cake, all at the same time. What I finally discovered was that as decadent as the coconut and pecan frosting is, it really does taste even better when combined with a deep chocolate cake. Although I can't help but save a spoonful of the frosting in the bowl to enjoy all in the spirit of re-living a part of my childhood, the part without any repercussions.

So you probably know that German Chocolate Cake is not German in origin at all. Not to discount the recorded history of this cake, but I would go so far as to say it is German in origin, in an odd not what you think sort of way. The cake probably should have been named German's Chocolate Cake in honor of the American man by the name of Sam German who in the mid 1850s developed the rich dark baking chocolate that almost a century later was one of the key ingredients in the making of this cake. One version of the cake recipe goes back to 1957 when a woman named Mrs. George Clay (did women not have first names back then?) submitted a recipe for German's Chocolate Cake to a Dallas newspaper. Her recipe ultimately appeared on the boxes of Baker's German Chocolate. And for some of you this was the recipe that might have been the version of German Chocolate Cake made in your house. Over time this recipe has been changed and modified by many cooks and pastry chefs. One of the most significant changes was the use of both Dutch Process Cocoa and dark chocolate (semi-sweet or bittersweet) in the cake batter instead of the use of Baker's German Chocolate. Yet in spite of the absence of 'German's Chocolate' in some of today's German Chocolate Cake recipes no one seems to want to change its' name. And in the spirit of sharing a bit more cake trivia with you, June 11th is National German Chocolate Cake day. But seriously I would not wait that long to make this version of the cake. Unless of course you are someone for whom waiting is your middle name.


Okay, you might be thinking 'This looks like a lot of work' or 'This looks challenging'. It really isn't. Or you maybe you are thinking 'The one I buy from Market Day is probably just as good." Really? Okay, I will go out on a limb and say it probably isn't. Or you might even be thinking 'The one at the bakery is phenomenal." Okay, maybe it is. But then it probably doesn't have the homemade love factor as one of the ingredients. Seriously, you can and really should make this version of German Chocolate Cake, it is that over the top, possibly legendary, wicked good.



The filling can be made the day before but should be made at least several hours before making the cakes to ensure it has time to chill and set up. The toasted chopped pecans are not added to the coconut pecan filling until right before you are ready to frost the cake.


This cake uses two kinds of chocolate: Dutch-processed cocoa powder and melted semi-sweet chocolate. The Dutch-processed cocoa will result in a cake with a darker color and more complex flavor. David Lebovitz wrote a great piece on the difference between Dutch-processed and natural cocoa powder.


The batter for this cake should be light and fluffy. The cooled melted semi-sweet chocolate is folded in last. Evenly dividing the batter between three 9 inch cake pans prepared and lined with parchment paper, the cakes are baked in a pre-heated 350 degree oven for 30 to 35 minutes until a toothpick inserted in the center of the cake comes out clean. To ensure the layers are even I weigh each cake pan. There was approximately 1 pound 6 ounces of batter in each pan.

The cakes are cooled for 20 minutes in the pan. Each layer is removed from the cake pan, placed on a cake rack and allowed to cool completely. I find that is often easier to handle the cake layers when they are slightly chilled in the refrigerator.


There is enough coconut pecan filling to frost each layer of the cake. Divide the filling evenly amongst the three layers. 


The chocolate icing is optional but makes for a great finished look. You can make the chocolate icing when the cakes are baking in the oven as it needs a little time to cool and set up.

Fill a pastry bag fitted with a star tip with the chocolate icing and create a pattern along the edge of the cake.


The finished cake can be kept at room temperature but my preference is place the finished cake in the refrigerator. The cake can be removed from the refrigerator at least one hour before serving. This cake is equally delicious served at room temperature or chilled. Personally I like my German Chocolate Cake chilled, not just because it evokes some childhood memories, but because it seems as if the flavors of the chilled cake are further enhanced.

Recipe
German Chocolate Cake (cake inspired by the German Chocolate Cake recipe from Matt Lewis and Renato Poliatifo in Baked; coconut pecan filling inspired by an old Cook's Illustrated recipe; and chocolate icing loosely inspired by recipe from David Lebovitz)

Ingredients
Coconut Pecan Filling
4 large egg yolks
12 ounces evaporated milk
1 cup (200g) granulated sugar
1/4 cup (50g) light brown sugar, firmly packed
6 Tablespoons unsalted butter, cut into 6 pieces
1/8 teaspoon Kosher salt
2 teaspoons vanilla 
8 ounces sweetened shredded coconut
1 1/2 cups toasted pecans, finely chopped

Cake
2 1/4 cups cake flour
3/4 cup Dutch process cocoa powder
1 1/2 teaspoons baking powder
1/2 teaspoon baking soda
3/4 teaspoon Kosher salt
1 cup hot coffee
1 cup buttermilk
1 1/4 cups (2 1/2 sticks) unsalted butter, room temperature
2 1/4 cups (450g) granulated sugar
5 large eggs, room temperature
1 1/2 teaspoons vanilla
4 ounces semisweet chocolate (I used Ghiradelli semi-sweet), melted and cooled

Chocolate Icing
8 ounces of semi-sweet or bittersweet chocolate, chopped
2 Tablespoons light corn syrup
3 Tablespoons (1 1/2 ounces) unsalted butter, room temperature
1 cup heavy cream
pinch of sea salt
3 cups sifted confectionary sugar

Directions
Coconut Pecan Filling
1. Whisk egg yolks in medium saucepan over low heat gradually whisking in the evaporated milk.
2. Add sugar, butter and salt. Cook over medium-high heat, whisking constantly, until mixture is boiling, frothy, and slightly thickened (takes about 6 minutes to get to this stage).
3. Transfer mixture to large heatproof bowl, whisk in vanilla.
4. Stir in coconut.
5. Cool until just warm, cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate until cool or cold (at least 2 hours and up to 3 days).
6. Right before getting ready to frost the cake, stir in the chopped toasted pecans.

Cake
1. Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Prepare three 9 inch cake pans lining each with buttered parchment paper.
2. Sift cake flour, cocoa powder, baking powder, baking soda and salt into a medium sized mixing bowl. Set aside.
3. In a small bowl, whisk together the hot coffee and buttermilk. Set aside.
4. Using a stand mixer fitted with a paddle attachment, beat butter and sugar until light and fluffy (approximately 4 to 5 minutes).
5. Add eggs one at a time beating until each egg is incorporated. 
6. Add vanilla and beat to incorporate. Note: The mixture should look light and fluffy.
7. Add flour mixture, alternating with coffee/buttermilk mixture, in three additions, beginning and ending with the flour mixture.
8. Remove bowl from the mixer and fold in the melted chocolate.
9. Divide batter evenly among the prepared pans and bake cakes for 30-35 minutes or until a toothpick inserted in the center of the cake comes out clean.
10. Transfer baked cakes to wire rack and allow to cool for 20 minutes. Remove cakes from pans and let cool completely.
11. To assemble cake, place one layer on cake platter. Dividing the coconut pecan filling in thirds, spread evenly on each layer. Finish the cake with chocolate icing. 
12. Store finished cake in the refrigerator. Allow to sit out at least one hour before serving. Cake can be served chilled or at room temperature.

Chocolate Icing
1. Place chopped chocolate, corn syrup, pinch of sea salt and butter in medium sized bowl.
2. Heat cream until it just begins to boil. Pour heated cream over chocolate. Let stand one minute.
3. Stir until smooth. Allow icing to cool slightly.
4. Gradually vigorously stir in 3 cups of sifted confectionary sugar. Icing is finished when it thickened to the point it can hold a peak. 
5. Put icing in pastry bag fitted with star tip to decorate top of cake. Optional: Icing along the bottom edge of cake (Note: This makes more icing than you need for this cake. Refrigerate unused icing for later use.)


I absolutely love when I come across a quote that takes my breath away. And a few weeks ago my breathing was temporarily suspended when I read this one: "It's impossible, said pride; it's risky, said experience; it's pointless, said reason, give it a try, whispered the heart." On both a personal and professional level this quote just spoke to me. I am one who believes we sometimes need to listen to our hearts rather than relying primarily on our heads when making life decisions. If we have to learn to live in a gray world, then my preference would be to live in the darker shades of listening to one's heart gray world. And once we make a decision with our hearts to at least try, we always have our heads to figure the rest of it out.