Friday, February 13, 2015

Rosewater Glazed Madeleines


Maybe it was the photos of rock formations in Moab, Utah or the sun setting in Grand Junction, Colorado my sister sent or the incredible photos of western Washington State posted to Facebook by a rather gifted photographer I know only through Facebook that finally pushed me into making plans to see landscapes different than the one I am living in. My other excitement for the week was finally returning back to gym after a rather long hiatus. For awhile I had been working out five to six days a week and then I let the holidays alter my routine. I never cease to be amazed at how much better I feel after working out. Why I have not been able to internalize this feeling into a 'habit' speaks to so many things as well as why change can sometimes be hard. The motivation for the return to the gym was in part prompted by reading the quote 'Quit saying you don't have time. You have time for what you make time for in life.' If someone had not already taken credit for those two sentences, I would have put my name to them. It's always a red flag when someone you care about tells you they are 'too busy' just as it's a red flag when you tell yourself you are 'too busy'. In my world, busy is one of those four letter words, one that can be hurtful to hear as well as harmful (to oneself) to utter. And this week, the time had finally come (again) for me to make time to workout. Thank goodness the bottle of Motrin hadn't expired.


These Rosewater Glazed Madeleines were not going to be my next post, Chicken Marbella was. Best laid plans often go awry or so they say. But after making and tasting them, I couldn't wait until next week to share them with you. I could think of no better way to give you the sense of the transformational deliciousness of these small rich cakes, than to share the eloquence of the writing of Marcel Proust. In his book 'Remembrance of Things Past' he wrote '....when one day in winter, on my return home, my mother, seeing that I was cold, offered me some tea, a think I did not ordinarily take. I declined at first, and then, for no particular reason, changed my mind. She sent for one of those squat, plump little cakes called petites madeleines, which look as though they had been molded in the fluted valve of a scallop shell. And soon, mechanically, dispirited after a dreary day with the prospect of a depressing morrow, I raised my lips a spoonful of the tea in which I soaked a morsel of the cake. No sooner had the warm liquid mixed with the crumbs touched my palate than a shiver ran through me and I stopped, intent upon the extraordinary thing that was happening to me. An exquisite pleasure had invaded my senses, something isolated, detached, with no suggestion of its origin. And at once the vicissitudes of life had become indifferent to me, its disasters innocuous, its' brevity illusory, this new sensation having had the effect which loves has, of filling me with a precious essence; or rather this essence was not in me, it-was-me. I had ceased now to feel mediocre, contingent, mortal. When could it have come to me, this all-powerful joy? I sensed that is was connected with the taste of the tea and the cake, but that infinitely transcended those savors....' Do madeleines really have the power to evoke feelings of love and euphoria? I suppose you will have to taste one to find out.

Many years ago I had bought a madeleine pan, most likely with the intention of making madeleines. For some reason I cannot remember when I bought this pan, however, by looking at I could tell that it had never been used. Oh, those best laid plans. This past week one of David Lebovitz's madeleine recipes appeared in a social media posting. For some unexplainable reason, this long overdue inspiration and motivation was enough to send me on the hunt for that madeleine pan. Had the person who shall remain nameless not organized all of my bakeware while I was living out east, my search for the madeleine pan could have led me to either abandon my madeleine baking plans or sent me out to buy another one. The more likely outcome would have been the later. 


Before I started making these madeleines I thought it might be wise to see what other madeleine recipes attributed to David Lebovitz had been posted. Considering I had already waited quite some time before making them, adding another hour or two seemed an insignificant delay. After finding a few recipes, comparing their similarities and differences, some minor ingredient quantity adjustments to the recipe I had initially come across seemed to be make sense. Possibly the best takeaway to come from comparing recipes was in gaining a greater clarity of the process of making madeleines. And lastly, in a moment of creativity, I thought rather than a lemon glaze or dusting of confectionary sugar, the more perfect finishing touch to the madeleines would be a rosewater glaze.

The hump in the madeleine is a very good thing. Room temperature eggs, baking powder, the folding processes and batter resting times all contribute to creating a fuller, plump madeleine. And while the use of a pastry bag is not absolutely necessary, it makes life easier (as well as making for more uniform sized cakes). Be careful to not over or underfill your madeleine mold. Baked in the upper third of a preheated 400 degree (F) oven, the madeleines become golden brown in 8 to 10 minutes. Would recommend you check them at seven minutes and add time. A minute can mean the difference between perfect and over baked.

Traditionally madeleines are sprinkled with a dusting of confectionary sugar. They can be dipped in melted chocolate, in a lemon glaze, or in a rosewater glaze. Rosewater is nothing more than a flavored water infused with rose petals and a small amount of sugar. Marzipan is usually flavored with rosewater. Since it can be a little sweet, I used sparingly in the glaze (a scant 1/4 teaspoon to 1 cup of sifted confectionary sugar). It was just enough to add some sweetness and just a tiny bit of floralness to the madeleines.


The cooled to the touch madeleines are dipped (scallop side) into the glaze and placed on a cooling rack to set.


Once the glaze has set, the madeleines placed in cupcake papers can be arranged on a platter or packaged in a box for gifting.


This recipe yielded sixteen (16) madeleines. After baking the first batch of twelve, I let the pan cool slightly, wiped it clean with a paper towel, then rebrushed with melted butter/dusted lightly with flour. Both batches came out perfectly, so there really isn't any need to buy a second pan. 

Part cake, part cookie, madeleines are simply irresistible. Be prepared to be affected by them. And hey, Happy Valentine's Day. I hope you make time for not just yourself, but who matters to you. 

Recipe
Rosewater Glazed Madeleines (inspired by David Lebovitz's madeleine recipe in My Paris Kitchen)

Ingredients
2 large eggs, room temperature
1/2 cup granulated sugar
1 cup all purpose flour, plus additional flour for preparing pan
1 teaspoon baking powder (recommend Rumford)
1/2 teaspoon sea salt
1/2 teaspoon vanilla
10 Tablespoons unsalted butter, divided
1 Tablespoon honey

1 cup confectionary sugar, sifted
2 Tablespoons whole milk
scant 1/4 teaspoon rosewater
(optional: 1 drop of pink or red food coloring)

Directions
1. Place eggs in the bowl of standing mixer fitted with a whisk attachment. Whip on medium-high speed until frothy, add granulated sugar a little at a time until mixture has doubled in volume and has thickened (approximately 3-5 minutes). Remove bowl from mixer.
2. Sift together flour, baking powder and sea salt.
3. Fold in sifted ingredients and vanilla to egg/sugar mixture using a spatula. Cover bowl with plastic wrap or a towel, allow to rest for 30 to 60 minutes. (Note: My rest time was 60 minutes.)
4. Melt 8 Tablespoons of unsalted butter in a small pan over low heat. Add honey, continue stirring over the heat for an additional minute. Remove from heat and set aside for 30 to 60 minutes. Set aside.
5. Fold in melted, cooled butter/honey mixture a few spoonfuls at a time into the rested batter. Fold until all butter has been incorporated. Cover bowl with plastic wrap or a towel, allow to rest for 30 to 60 minutes. (Note: My rest time was 60 minutes.)
6. Preheat oven to 400 degrees. 
7. Melt 2 Tablespoons of unsalted butter. Brush the madeleine mold with the melted butter. Dust lightly with flour (shake out excess flour). 
8. Using a pastry bag, fill each mold indentation approximately 3/4 full with batter. Tap pan on counter before placing in the top third of the preheated oven.
9. Bake until golden brown and/or feel just set when you touch with your finger, approximately 8 to 10 minutes. (Note: My bake time was 8 minutes.)
10. Allow to cool for 30 seconds, then tip madeleines out onto a cooling rack. Allow to cool to touch before dipping in rosewater glaze.
11. For glaze, mix together the sifted confectionary sugar, milk and rosewater. Stir until smooth.
12. Dip top (scallop side) of the madeleines into the glaze, place dipped madeleine on cooling rack (scalloped side up). Allow to rest until icing has set.
13. Serve immediately. Note: Glazed madeleines are best left uncovered (or not tightly-wrapped). They are best eaten the day they are made, however, they can be kept in container for up to two days.
Additional note: Can dust cooled madeleines with confectionary sugar instead of dipping in glaze or can substitute 1 teaspoon of freshly squeezed lemon juice in place of the rosewater for a lemon glaze.


Monday, February 9, 2015

Linzer Sable Cookies


I could barely contain my excitement when I woke up Saturday morning to find the sun shining. After what seemed like an eternity of gray or short-lived sunny days, the sight of a bright sun could not have been a more welcoming, energizing sight. Quickly throwing on some clothes and rushing around to pack up my camera, I could not get in the car fast enough. Then came that temporarily, wasting valuable time, paralyzing feeling of indecisiveness as I began second-guessing my intended destination. After what seemed like an eternity (it was all of two minutes), I decided to change my plans and head back up to the Chicago Botanic Gardens. What I realized when I got there was that no matter how familiar this place has become to me in the last few months, there were new discoveries to be made. If there is such a thing as a place being familiarly unfamiliar, this would be one of those places. It is no wonder why "The real voyage of discovery consists not in seeking new landscapes, but in having new eyes."(Marcel Proust)  is one of my most favorite of all quotes.


Recently I came across Dorie Greenspan's Linzer Sable Cookie recipe and thought it would be perfect to share, perfect to make for Valentine's Day. However, in revisiting the list of cookies I have posted to this blog I realized I had already shared a recipe for Linzer cookies. This time last year I posted the White Chocolate Raspberry Linzer Cookies inspired by Model Bakery's Linzer cookie recipe. As it happens, these two Linzer cookies are both similar and different. 

In anticipation of making these Linzer Sable cookies, I stopped at Trader Joe's on the way back from a morning of taking photos to pick up some whole hazelnuts and some almond meal as I hadn't decided which nut I would use when making these cookies (this was turning into an epic day of indecisiveness).  I bought the almond meal not only because it is made from whole sweet almonds, but it would also save me the added step of grinding nuts. If you prefer the taste of hazelnuts in your cookies without having to grind them, Bob's Red Mill sells a Hazelnut Meal Flour made from ground hazelnuts that would work well in cookie. Complimenting the flavor of the nuts (whichever ones you choose) in the cookie are the spices of cinnamon and cloves. Combined with the raspberry preserves and a dusting of powdered sugar these cookies are bites of pure buttery, nutty, spicy and fruity deliciousness.


The rolling out process for these cookies is a little different. Usually you form a ball of dough into a disk, flatten it slightly, chill it, and then roll it out on a floured surface. With this cookie, you form a ball of dough, place it between two sheets of parchment or wax paper, flatten it slightly, roll it out and then chill it before cutting into your desired shapes. Because the parchment or wax paper slides around when you roll it out, I would suggest taping down the bottom piece of paper to the counter or whatever surface you are using to roll out the dough to a even 1/4 inch thickness. This was one of the early lessons learned in the making of this cookie.

The rolled out dough is placed on a baking sheet and placed in the refrigerator to chill for approximately two hours. Dorie Greenspan suggests you can also put the dough in the freezer for 45 minutes, but I prefer the slow to chill process so mine went into the refrigerator.


Traditional Linzer cookies are round with fluted or smooth edges. Heart shaped cookies, not just at Valentine's Day, but anytime of the year just look a little more irresistible. A raspberry jam or preserve is the classic filling for these cookies, however, you could also make them using mixed berry, blackberry, or apricot preserves. My personal favorite is raspberry, with or without the seeds.


The cookies baked for approximately 10 to 13 minutes in preheated 375 degree (F) oven until they are lightly golden on the bottom and slightly firm to the touch on top. Once cooled the bottoms are ready to be spread with the preserves and the tops lightly dusted with confectionary sugar. If you are making these cookies without a 'cut-out' the tops of the cookies can be dusted with confectionary sugar once they have been sandwiched together. Be sure to bake up the small cut-outs from the top of the cookie as they great for noshing on.


When assembling the cookie, the bottom/flat side of the solid cookie is spread with the preserves and topped with the bottom/flat side of the top cookie. This ensures the cookie can sandwich together perfectly.


The number of cookies will depend on the size of the cookie cutter used. Additionally, the quantity will be affected by the thickness of the rolled out dough. Mine were on the slightly thicker side (this was  mostly because I hadn't taped down the bottom piece of parchment paper when rolling out the dough). My yield for this recipe was 15 cookies due to the size of the heart cookie cutter used and the thickness of the dough. If using a small two inch round or smaller heart cookie cutter (and rolling out to a consistent 1/4 inch thickness) you should anticipate being able to make two dozen Linzer Sable (sandwich) cookies. Note: Graduated size heart cookie cutters are available from Williams-Sonoma (made by deBuyer) or through Amazon (made by Fat Daddio's).

If you are looking to make someone feel special on Valentine's Day or on any day, give them something homemade. Gifts from the heart are often those made with one's hands, written in one's own handwriting, or spoken from one's lips.

Recipe
Linzer Sable Cookies (inspired by Dorie Greenspan's Linzer Sable Cookie Recipe as shared in her book Baking: From My Home to Yours)

Ingredients
1 1/2 cups ground almond meal (or finely ground almonds, hazelnuts or walnuts)
1 1/2 cups all-purpose flour
1 1/2 teaspoons Saigon cinnamon
1/4 teaspoon kosher salt
scant 1/4 teaspoon ground cloves
1 large egg, room temperature
2 teaspoons water
1/2 cup (8 Tablespoons) unsalted butter, room temperature
1/2 cup granulated sugar
1/2 cup raspberry preserves (or your preserve of choice)
Confectionary sugar for dusting

Directions
1. Whisk together the almond meal, flour, cinnamon, cloves and salt in a medium sized bowl. Set aside.
2. Whisk together the egg and water. Set aside.
3. In a standing mixer fitted with a paddle attachment, cream together butter and granulated sugar until fluffy and smooth (approximately 3 minutes).
4. Add egg mixture and beat for 1 minute.
5. Reduce speed to low and mix in dry ingredients until incorporated. Be careful not to over mix.
6. Divide batter/dough in half. Working with one half at a time, form into a ball and place between two sheets of parchment paper or wax paper. Roll out until approximately 1/4 inch thick. Transfer to a baking sheet to keep flat. Repeat process with other batter/dough ball. Place cookie sheet in the refrigerator for at least 2 hours (or can place in freezer for 45 minutes). 
7. Preheat oven to 375 degrees (F). Prepare a baking pan lined with parchment paper.
8. Remove one rolled out dough and place on a cutting board. Remove one piece of the parchment paper/wax paper and cut into desired shapes. Place each cookie on prepared cookie sheet. Note: If you want the preserves or jam to show, cut half of the cookies with a smaller shape in the center.
9. Bake cookies for 10 to 13 minutes or until they are lightly golden and just firm to the touch. Transfer baked cookies to a cooling rack and cool to room temperature.
10. Repeat process with second rolled out disc of dough. 
11. Gather all unused dough scraps and reroll between two sheets of parchment paper or wax paper. Cut into desired shapes and bake.
12. Spread thin layer of preserves on the flat side of the 'solid' cookies. Note: Mound a little of the preserves in the center so they come up through the 'cut-out'.
13. Sprinkle confectionary sugar on the top side of the 'cut-out' cookies.
14. Sandwich the two halves together pressing lightly.
15. Depending on the size cookie cutter this recipe will make 15-24 linzer sandwich cookies.
Note: Instead of dusting these cookies with confectionary sugar and/or sandwiching them together with preserves, the cookies can be simply dipped in white or dark chocolate.

Thursday, February 5, 2015

Pecan Praline Monkey Bread


At some point in my life I must have decided it was sacrilegious to throw magazines away, specifically magazines having anything to do with food. Although I have also been known to hang on to those what I call 'inspiration' magazines for what most would consider longer than necessary. Earlier this week I decided the time had finally come for me to 'let some of them go'. I know of at least one person who secretly hopes I am getting closer to the place of  'let most of them go'. There really are days when I wish there were more minimalist tendencies in my DNA (admittedly I am not taking full responsibility for my 'saving' tendencies). Before parting with some of these magazines, I decided to quickly go through them to see if there was anything worth saving. Flipping though the pages of an old Southern Living magazine, I came across a recipe for a Praline Pull-Apart Bread, otherwise known as a Monkey Bread. This version was frozen yeasted bread rolls dipped in melted butter, rolled in a cinnamon sugar, sprinkled generously with chopped pecans, chilled overnight, slathered in a brown sugar whipped cream mixture and baked until golden brown. There was one less page in the magazine before it was tossed in the recycling bin.

Why did it take me so long to make this Pecan Praline Monkey Bread? Maybe it had something to do with my penchant for 'homemade from scratch' recipes and a blind eye to anything Sandra Lee-esq. But for those of you who read this blog regularly, you know I haven't actually been a 'homemade only' recipe purist as there have been at least two 'semi-homemade' recipes posted in the past year (Wendy's Mashed Potatoes and Four Bean Baked Beans). There always has to be room for exceptions. 

What makes this Pecan Praline Monkey Bread 'semi-homemade' is the use of frozen dinner rolls (I used the smaller ones made by Rhodes). The use of these rolls not only makes this one of those 'almost too easy not to make' breads, they enable you to assemble almost everything the night before, saving the baking for the morning. In a little more than an hour, you can be serving your friends and family warm cinnamon and praline flavored bites of deliciousness. No one will be the wiser that you didn't make the entire Monkey Bread from scratch. And don't be so quick to divulge you didn't slave for hours making it. 

For a deeper praline flavor and even darker finished color to the baked bread, use a combination of light and dark brown sugars. I used equal proportions of the two.

If I were to change one thing the next time I make this Pecan Praline Monkey Bread it would be to use either a 10 inch tube pan or a larger, wider bundt pan. The pan I used worked, but a larger pan would have worked better. Ideally you want to keep as much of the praline 'glaze' in the pan versus having any of it spill over out of the pan. The frozen bread dough not only rises while resting overnight in the refrigerator, it rises significantly during the baking process. There is no need to thaw the frozen dinner rolls in the preparation of this bread as they 'thaw' in the refrigerator after being dipped in melted butter and rolled in cinnamon sugar.


Once all of the dough balls have been placed in the pan and pecans sprinkled throughout, the pan is wrapped with plastic wrap and placed in the refrigerator for 8 to 18 hours. Note: Don't wait until all of dinner rolls are placed in the baking pan before adding the pecans. Sprinkle a half cup of the chopped pecans when half of the dinner rolls are in the pan and the other half cup over the top of the finished layer of dinner rolls.


The heavy cream is whipped until very soft peaks are formed. The brown sugars and vanilla are stirred into the whipped cream and,the entire mixture is spread and pressed lightly over the dough balls. In a preheated 325 degree (F) oven, the bread is placed on a baking sheet and baked for 60 to 70 minutes or until golden brown.

The baked Monkey bread should rest for approximately 10 minutes before it's unmolded onto a rimmed platter or rimmed cake stand. Pour any of the remaining praline glaze remaining in the baking pan over the bread before serving.


While this Pecan Praline Monkey Bread is best served warm, it is still good at room temperature. You can always reheat individual servings of the bread in the microwave (on half-power) to recapture the taste of its' warm, ooey gooey goodness. 

Now that the groundhog has seen his shadow it looks like some of us will not be getting any relief from the harsh, cold, snowy winter weather any time soon. This Pecan Praline Monkey Bread would be perfect for breakfast or brunch; after a morning of snow shoveling or cross-country skiing; a morning walk or hike; or, just because you crave the flavors of cinnamon and praline. Semi-homemade never tasted so good. I wonder what else I might find in those stacks of magazines.
Recipe
Pecan Praline Monkey Bread (inspired by Southern Living's Praline Pull-Apart Bread recipe, December 2009)

Ingredients
1 cup granulated sugar
4 teaspoons Saigon cinnamon, divided
2 pounds frozen bread rolls, do not thaw (recommend Rhodes White Dinner Rolls) Note: Used 24 of the small dinner rolls.
1/2 cup (1 stick) unsalted butter, melted and cooled slightly
1 generous cup pecan halves, chopped
3/4 cup whipping cream
3/4 cup brown sugar (recommend using equal parts of light and dark brown sugars)
1 teaspoon vanilla
Note: The Rhodes dinner rolls came in a three pound package, however, you only need two pounds of them for this recipe. I used the package containing 36 small white dinner rolls.

Directions
1. Spray a 10 inch tube or 10 inch bundt pan with oil. Set aside.
2. Combine granulated sugar and three teaspoons cinnamon in a medium sized bowl.
3. Dip each bread roll in melted sugar, dredge in sugar mixture, and place in prepared pan. (Note: When half of the rolls have been placed in the pan, sprinkle in half of the chopped pecans. Finish dredging remaining bread rolls and sprinkle remaining pecans over the top. Pour any remaining cinnamon sugar into the pan.)
4. Cover pan tightly with plastic wrap. Refrigerate 8 to 18 hours.
5. Preheat oven to 325 degrees (F).
6. Beat whipping cream until soft peaks form. Stir in brown sugar, remaining one teaspoon cinnamon and vanilla. Pour/spread mixture over the dough.
7. Place pan on a baking sheet. Bake for approximately 60 to 70 minutes or until golden brown.
8. Cool on wire rack for ten minutes. Invert on cake stand or platter. Drizzle with remaining glaze from the pan.


In the Sydney and Walda Bestoff Sculpture Garden at the New Orleans Museum of Art (NOMA), December 2014

Monday, February 2, 2015

Meatloaf


"I really don't know why it is that all of us are so committed to the sea, except I think it is because in addition to the fact that the sea changes and the light changes, and ships change, it is because we all came from the sea." (JFK's 1962 America's Cup Speech). Now that my photography class has ended I feel like taking a short trip somewhere. Any somewhere with beautiful landscapes I have yet to photograph will do. For once I am not particularly fussy although my preference would be to take a relatively short road trip to a place with water nearby. Whether it be an ocean, a lake, a river, or a stream, there is something both energizing and calming about being near, seeing, or listening to the sound of a body of water. Years ago while hiking in Rocky Mountain National Park (RMNP) I went on a trail ending with one of the clearest, calmest and refreshingly coolest lakes nestled in the mountains. Considering it wasn't necessarily the easiest of hikes (for me that is), the sight of the lake could not have been the more perfect reward. Whether I was suffering from elevation delirium or not, I just remember this lake being one of the most beautiful I had ever seen. I subsequently learned the lake was named after Enos Mills, a man referred to as the 'father of Rocky Mountain National Park'. So if you are ever up in RMNP, consider hiking the trail to Mills Lake. I promise you will find the views breathtaking. 

I learned the hard way the importance of bringing food and water on a hike. It only takes one experience underestimating just how thirsty and hungry you get acclimating to a higher elevation and expending a significant amount of energy to never go on a hike without water or food again. My ravenous cravings almost always lean toward comfort foods.


Speaking of comfort food, this is not your mother's meatloaf (apologies to those of you whose mother made a meatloaf so insanely delicious you thought twice about moving out). This is not the kind of meatloaf you need to smother in ketchup for flavor and moisture (no apologies to those of you who smother everything in ketchup). Rather, this is a meatloaf self-professed meatloaf connoisseurs would proclaim as throw down worthy. Comfort food never tasted this good.

Finely chopped onions, garlic, carrots and celery sautéed in butter make just about everything they go into taste better.


Bread and eggs are the binders in this meatloaf. Two slices of day old hearty white sandwich bread torn into pieces are soaked in whole milk. Rather than process the bread into crumbs in a food processor, I simply tore them into pieces. The bread soaks while you are sautéing the vegetables.


The original Gourmet recipe called for the use of ground beef chuck. Not that there is anything wrong with ground chuck, but this is the kind of meatloaf beckoning you to use ground sirloin. The addition of bacon and ground pork provide more than enough 'fat', so the meatloaf significantly benefits from the flavor ground sirloin brings to it.

The most unusual or atypical ingredient in this meatloaf are the dried prunes. No eye rolling or throwing shade allowed. Don't even think of omitting them. Don't even think of replacing them with any other dried fruit. I chopped both the prunes and bacon with a knife, however, you could chop them up in a food processor.

The spices in this meatloaf are kosher salt, black pepper and allspice. The one change I might consider making is reducing the salt from two teaspoons to one and a half teaspoons. Again I say 'might' because the meatloaf was not overly salty, but everyone views salty a little differently.


All of the ingredients are mixed together until well blended, shaped into a loaf, and placed on either a sheet pan or in a large oval cast iron pan. The length and width of your meatloaf will affect its' baking time. A longer, thinner loaf will cooker faster than the the thicker, wider loaf. Baked in a preheated 350 degree (F) oven, the meatloaf is done when it reaches an internal temperature of 155 degrees. My meatloaf was done in slightly less than an hour, however, baking times could range from 55 to 75 minutes.


The bacon on this meatloaf was cooked separately and not 'cooked' on top of the meatloaf in the oven. It is an optional garnish although it serves as a prelude to one of the flavors in the meatloaf. And remember, we just happen to be living in the 'everything is better with bacon' decade.

This meatloaf is delicious enjoyed warm out of the oven (with mashed potatoes of course) or cold (on a sandwich made with white bread and some mayonnaise). It is one of those meatloaves you might go so far as to declare as the 'best' you ever had. If you are going on a long, strenuous hike, your body will thank you for bringing a sandwich made with this meatloaf. And considering the groundhog saw his shadow, the next six weeks have comfort food written all over them. A blizzard might be the only thing preventing you from making this meatloaf, unless of course you had bought all of the ingredients in anticipation of being homebound for a couple of days.

Recipe
Meatloaf (inspired by Gourmet's February 2008 Meatloaf recipe)

Ingredients
1 cup torn bread pieces (from approximately 2 slices homestyle white sandwich bread)
1/3 cup whole milk
1 medium Spanish onion, finely chopped
3-4 garlic cloves, minced
1 medium sized celery stalk, finely chopped
2 medium carrots, finely chopped
2 Tablespoons unsalted butter
2 Tablespoons Worchestershire sauce
1 Tablespoon cider vinegar
1/4 teaspoon ground allspice
1 1/2 teaspoons black pepper
2 teaspoons of kosher salt (could reduce to 1 1/2 teaspoons)
1/4 pound of bacon, finely chopped
1/2 cup pitted prunes, chopped
1 1/2 pounds ground sirloin
1/2 pound ground pork (not lean)
2 large eggs
1/3 cup finely chopped fresh parsley 
Optional: 3-4 slices cooked bacon for garnish

Directions
1. Preheat oven to 350 degrees (F)
2. In a large bowl, combine bread crumbs and milk. Set aside.
3. In a large heavy skillet, sautĂ© onion, garlic, celery and carrots over medium heat, stirring occasionally (approximately 5 minutes). Reduce heat to low, cover, and cook until carrots are tender (an additional 3-5 minutes). Remove from heat. 
4. Stir in Worchestershire sauce, cider vinegar, allspice, pepper, and salt to cooked vegetables. Stir to combine. Add to the bread/milk mixture.
5. Add chopped bacon, chopped prunes, eggs, beef, pork and parsley. Mix together with hands until well combined.
6. Pack into a 10"x 5" slightly oval loaf in a shallow baking cast iron baking dish.
7. Bake for approximately 55-75 minutes or until internal temperature reaches 155 degrees (F). Note: Baking time will be affected by length/width of loaf. Shorter baking time for a longer/thinner loaf and a slightly longer time for a shorter/thicker loaf.
8. Let stand at least 10 minutes before serving. Garnish with cooked bacon slices.
Note: Serve warm with mashed potatoes or serve cold on white bread and a schmear of mayonnaise.


Backyard images from the winter blizzard.

Wednesday, January 28, 2015

Gouda Mac and Cheese w/ Caramelized Shallots


As I watch the coverage of Winter Storm Juno out on the east coast I can't help but remember my own east coast blizzard experience two years ago. And the more time that lapses the more the story of this experience is embellished. But seriously, enduring the hardship of significant snow and brutal cold are one thing, significant snow, brutal cold, and no power are a completely different one. The incredible beauty of the snow covered landscape does not make up for the bone-chilling cold felt when the power goes out. After two days of no power, I didn't just want to take a shower, I just wanted to take the hottest shower my body would tolerate. Doesn't it always seem that when we don't have access to something, particularly those things we take for granted, our desire for it seems to disproportionately increase? We aren't thirsty for water until the well doesn't work. Suddenly our throats become parched and nothing but water will satisfy it. Guess this is life's way of reminding us the best way to appreciate something is to be without it for a while to truly appreciate its' value.

Have you often heard the saying 'there are three sides to every story: your side, the other side and the truth'? That was thought when I went on a quest to learn more about the history of macaroni and cheese. The most popular version of the origin of this American classic goes back to 1803 and is attributed to Thomas Jefferson. After dining on this dish during his travels to Italy, he brought back a pasta maker so it could be replicated and served in the White House. Years later, Jefferson's daughter, Mary Rudolph, included a macaroni with parmesan cheese recipe in her 1824 cookbook "The Virginia Housewife". The less popular version of the story has macaroni and cheese casserole dishes being served at new England church suppers in Colonial America using the recipes they had brought with them and ingredients they had available. Whether or not their recipes came from Elizabeth Raffald's book 'The Experienced English Housekeeper' (published in 1769), noodle casseroles made with cheese and topped with bread crumbs have endured over the centuries. Today the variations of this classic comfort food are limited only by one's imagination or cheese and pasta preferences.


This version of mac and cheese is made with the classic elbow macaroni noodles along along with aged gouda and some white sharp cheddar cheese. I initially started out making it with only with the aged gouda, but then decided the addition of some sharp white cheddar would add another dimension of flavor and slightly reduce the intense richness of the gouda cheese. The combination of these two cheeses worked perfectly together in this creamy macaroni and cheese casserole.


Two cups of dry elbow macaroni does not seem like it would be enough for this casserole, but it is.


To ensure your mac and cheese casserole still has enough texture to it when baked, the pasta noodles should be cooked until they are al dente or slightly underdone. Depending on the noodles you use for this casserole the cooking time will range. Most packages will give al dente times on them, but if they do not, you can always test for their doneness by tasting them. The cooked noodles are drained but not rinsed.


After making a white or béchamel sauce, the grated cheese is stirred in until the sauce is smooth and creamy. My most favorite gouda cheeses Rembrandt (one year aged) gouda. It is a deep, golden in color cow's milk cheese having flavors of butterscotch, honey, and caramel. With just the right amount of sharpness, it equally perfect for eating as well as for using in this casserole. You can find it in most stores with a large cheese department as well as at the large wholesale food stores we all have memberships to (the one's where we usually don't get out of without spending at least a hundred dollars).


While an ounce of white sharp cheddar cheese doesn't seem like much, it turned out to be the right amount. To ensure the creaminess of the mac and cheese, I added a quarter cup of heavy whipping cream after all of the cheeses had melted into the bĂ©chamel sauce. This amount of heavy whipping cream also kept the cheese/liquid balance of the cheese sauce. You could also use whole milk here.

The cooked elbow macaroni noodles are stirred into the cheese sauce and then poured into the prepared casserole dish. If your sauce does not look creamy (and it should) add just a little more whole milk or heavy whipping cream.


Some say bacon ramps up the flavor of everything it is added to. And it usually does. But for me caramelized shallots should be one of those foods ranked right up there with bacon. The added layer of flavor they add to this casserole make a significant difference to both its' taste and texture.

To even more texture and crunch to the Gouda Mac and Cheese with Caramelized Shallots casserole, panko bread crumbs tossed in some extra-virgin olive oil are the necessary finishing touch.

Baked in a pre-heated 350 degree (F) oven, the mac and cheese casserole cooks for 25-30 minutes or until the panko bread crumbs are lightly browned and the casserole is heated through. While it can be a side dish, this version may be the more perfect main dish to serve for lunch or dinner on a cold winter day. And if you have not mac and cheese in awhile, make this one. It might even be better than the one you remember.

Note: You can make the Gouda Mac and Cheese w/ Caramelized Shallots early in the day, cover and refrigerate. Let sit out at least 30 minutes before placing in the pre-heated 350 degree (F) oven.

Recipe
Gouda Mac and Cheese w/ Caramelized Shallots
Ingredients
2 cups dry macaroni shells (or any pasta of your choice), cooked until al dente
2 Tablespoons unsalted butter
2 Tablespoons all-purpose flour
2 cups whole milk
8 ounces aged Gouda cheese (aged at least one year) grated (2 cups) (Recommend Rembrandt Gouda)
1 ounce grated sharp cheddar cheese, grated (or a generous 1/4 cup)
1/4 cup heavy cream (or whole milk)
salt and pepper to taste
2 large shallots, sliced thin and caramelized
3/4 cup Panko bread crumbs combined with 2-3 Tablespoons extra virgin olive oil

Directions
1. Preheat oven to 350 degrees (F). Lightly butter a medium sized oval casserole dish or individual ramekins.
2. Melt unsalted butter, add flour and whisk constantly for one minute.
3. Slowly pour in milk, whisking constantly. When all milk has been added, put heat on simmer and cook until thickened (use the back of the spoon test to check for doneness). Remove pan from heat.
4. Stir in grated cheeses. Mix until all of the cheese has melted and the sauce is smooth. Stir in cream. Season with salt and pepper to taste.
5. Pour mixture into prepared pan.
6. Top macaroni and cheese with caramelized shallots and Panko bread crumbs.
7. Bake for approximately 25-30 minutes or until bubbling.
8. Serve immediately.

Capturing the morning sunlight at the Morton Arboretum and St. James Farm.