Roasted Eggplant Parmesan

There are so many different words I could use to describe our girls weekend trip to Lake Geneva, it would be impossible to choose just one. Perfect. Fun. Memorable. Not even having a state trooper ask us what we didn't understand about a police barricade and the solid white line on the highway could spoil it. 

In addition to coming home with photographs, memories and stories, I also managed to come home with a few treasures (Honestly I can't remember the last time I went on a trip where I didn't come home with a treasure or two). Dangerous might also be a word to describe this trip. My weekend finds included some (real) deer antlers, a large galvanized metal tray (perfect backdrop for blog photos), and some vintage silverware. Like all of the other treasures I found on past trips over the years, these too are destined to be reminders of time spent with friends, each one having a story associated it. The day I cannot remember when or where I bought the things I have acquired over the years will be a day when I need to start worrying about my memory. Thankfully and fortunately my memory (for all odd pieces of information) remains intact. Who knew buying things could be a strategy for strengthening one's memory?

Included in the adventures of the weekend was a stop at the farmer's market. There were piles of freshly harvested pumpkins, but the size and quantity of the other purchases was going to make bringing some pumpkins home impossible. But not all was lost. The eggplant at the market was too beautiful to resist and there would be room in the car for them (of course, I just had to buy some). 

Having made more than my fair share of ratatouille these past few weeks, it was time to use the eggplant differently. Specifically in a new, different eggplant parmesan recipe. One using Mario Batali's technique and version as the inspiration. Rather than coating thin slices of eggplant in an egg, flour and bread crumbs, then frying in olive oil, Batali shows respect for and enhances the eggplant's rich, complex flavor by first roasting rather than frying it. Brilliant! Why had I not known this before? My lame excuse is that my ethnic heritage does not include even a teeny tiny amount of Italian. The roasting process creates a depth of flavor giving the eggplant parmesan a flavor more decadent as well as more delicious than the fried version.

To cut the eggplant lengthwise or crosswise, that was the first question. Traditionally most think of cutting the eggplant into rounds rather than planks when making eggplant parmesan. However, for dishes where the eggplant is layered, cutting it lengthwise allows its fleshly surface to take on more color and flavor. Considering this eggplant parmesan was going to be all about flavor, lengthwise slices it would be. To cut thickly or thinly, that was the next question. Because eggplant is known for losing some of its' moisture and volume when roasted, thicker slices (at least 1/4 inch thick) would ensure the finished dish would be one where the meatiness of the eggplant would not be lost. (Note: In updating this post the eggplant was inadvertently cut vertically. But heed the advice of cutting it horizontally.)

Layering the sliced eggplant in a deep bowl or colander (sprinkling each layer with coarse salt) and allowing it to sit to thirty minutes helps to drain out any excess water (no one wants a watery eggplant parmesan) as well as aids in removing the bitter taste from the eggplant. After thirty minutes, each eggplant slice is dried with a paper towel before being dredged in flour. Whatever you do, do not rinse the 'sweat' from the eggplant. Not only does the salt add flavor, it helps the eggplant absorb some of the liquid of the 'sauce', further reducing any chance for a 'watery' eggplant parmesan.

Each of the baking sheets are coated somewhat generously with extra-virgin olive oil. I didn't measure it out so I can't be specific. A thin coating of olive oil won't be enough as the eggplant's absorbency powers are incredible. The eggplant shouldn't be swimming in olive oil, but there needs to be enough to help 'sauté' it while it roasts in a preheated 450 degree oven. Additionally, the top of each eggplant slice is drizzled/brushed with extra-virgin olive oil.

The total roasting time for the eggplant is thirty (30) minutes, fifteen (15) minutes per side. Having the eggplant slices cut to a consistent thickness (again, at least 1/4 inch) will ensure they cook evenly (a lesson learned in the roasting process). Would strongly suggest you check on the eggplant slices midway through the second 15 minutes of roasting time just to be certain you don't ruin/dry out/burn any of the slices.

I absolutely love a marinara sauce having a detectable garlic flavor. Lidia Batianiach's salsa marinara aka marinara sauce is one of my favorites, however, for this eggplant parmesan recipe I made several changes to her recipe. No, I didn't back down on the amount of garlic used, but did cut the peeled cloves into thin slices rather than crushing and chopping them. Instead of using two teaspoons of course salt I used only one as there was already going be enough salt in the finished dish (remember the eggplant slices were salted while they were sweating for 30 minutes). Lastly, rather than use two 28 ounce cans of crushed San Marzano tomatoes, I used one 28 ounce can of crushed and one 28 ounce can of diced San Marzano tomatoes. I actually loved the taste and consistency of the finished sauce so much, I am thinking of making these changes permanent ones.

The sauce simmers while the the eggplant roasts. At a minimum the sauce should simmer for 30 minutes, but increasing the simmer time to 40 to 45 minutes helps to create a richer, less 'watery' sauce.

Call me a cheese snob but there is a world of difference between the taste of freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano and all other forms of grated domestic or international parmesan cheeses. It's sharp, slightly complex nutty flavor adds just the right amount of savoriness to the eggplant parmesan. The difference in cost between Parmigiano-Reggiano and all other parmesan cheeses is insignificant compared to the difference in taste each brings to this dish.

The layering process begins with a thin layer of sauce on the bottom of the pan followed by a layer of roasted eggplant, grated Parmigiano-Reggiano, and then another thin layer of sauce. After two sequences of this layering process, there is a single layer fresh mozzarella, sliced (not grated). Yes, fresh mozzarella. There are two more sauce/eggplant/cheese/sauce layers creating a total of 5 distinct layers. Before placing in a preheated 400 degree (F) oven, the eggplant parmesan is sprinkled with even more grated Parmigiano-Reggiano.

The eggplant parmesan bakes for 40 to 45 minutes or until the top is lightly browned. If your eggplant had not fully sweated or your sauce was too thin, you may find the eggplant parmesan will ooze some liquid. If that happens, all is not lost, simply press down on the eggplant and spoon off any excess liquid. Would recommend checking your eggplant parmesan halfway through the baking process to check on it and to prevent it from turning 'watery'.

As hard as it may be to wait, allow the eggplant parmesan to rest for at least 15 to 20 minutes before serving. Your patience will be rewarded.

With all seriousness, I will never go back to frying or to thinly cutting the eggplant again when making eggplant parmesan. The difference in the cooking process, in the texture, in the taste, and in the flavor of a roasted eggplant parmesan is significant. Every now and then a different version of a recipe comes along that gives our 'traditional, tried and true' ones a run for their money, forcing us to choose between staying with what we know or moving on to something new. Yes, I know, change can be hard, particularly around 'recipes' as it moves us out of our comfort zones and makes us feel like we are being disloyal to a memory. But like the change in season from summer to fall, life is all about change. It just so happens this Roasted Eggplant Parmesan recipe is a game changer!

Recipe
Roasted Eggplant Parmesan (inspired by the recipes and cooking techniques of Mario Batali and Lidia Bastinach)
Post updated October 2020

Ingredients
Marinara
1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil
14-16 cloves of garlic, thinly sliced
1 (28 ounce) can San Marzano crushed tomatoes
1 (28 ounce) can San Marzano diced tomatoes
2 -3 Tablespoons granulated sugar (strongly recommend using 3 Tablespoons)
1 teaspoon Kosher salt (if making the marinara for another use, use 2 teaspoons of Kosher salt)
1/2 teaspoon Aleppo pepper
10-12 fresh basil leaves, sliced into slivers

Eggplant
5 to 6 medium sized eggplants (choose male eggplants as they have the least amount of seeds)
Kosher salt
1 generous cup (140g) all-purpose flour
Extra-virgin olive oil
2 generous cups grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese
1 to 1 1/2 pounds fresh mozzarella, sliced into 1/4 inch slices (more cheese is better)

Directions
Marinara
1. Heat extra virgin olive oil in a heavy deep saucepan. Add garlic slices and cook until lightly browned.
2. Add crushed and diced tomatoes. Bring mixture to a boil.
3. Reduce heat to a simmer and add salt, Aleppo pepper, and sugar. Cook for at least 20 minutes (but up to 40 minutes) until sauce has slightly thickened.
4. Add slivered basil to sauce in last five minutes of simmering.
Note: Make sauce while eggplant is sweating and roasting.

Eggplant
1. Peel and slice eggplant into at least 1/4 inch slices.
2. In a large bowl or colander, create and lightly salt layers of the eggplant slices. Place a plate on top of eggplant slices, weight down with a heavy pan or plate topped with cans. Allow the eggplant to sweat for thirty (30) minutes.
3. Remove eggplant slices, drying each one with a paper towel (do not rinse the eggplant).
4. Pour olive oil on the bottom of three to four baking sheets.
5. Dredge each slice of eggplant into the flour, shaking off any excess. Place each slice on the prepared baking sheet. When all slices have been placed on baking sheets, drizzle/brush more olive oil over each one.
6. In a preheated 450 degree (F) oven, bake eggplant until it has browned on each side (approximately 15 minutes per side). At the first 15 minute mark, turn eggplant over so it becomes evenly browned and cooked.
7. In a 9" x 12" baking dish, begin by spreading a thin layer of marinara on bottom. Top with a layer of eggplant working to completely cover bottom of the pan. Sprinkle eggplant with some grated Parmigano-Reggiano cheese and then another thin layer of marinara. Repeat layering again.
8. After second layer, add a single layer of fresh (sliced) mozzarella. Continue with two more layers of marinara/eggplant/cheese/marinara. Finish top with a final layer of mozzarella and then sprinkle with Parmigano-Reggiano cheese.
9. Reduce oven temperature to 400 degrees. Place baking dish on a baking sheet and bake for 40 to 45 minutes or until top has browned. Note: Check halfway through the baking process to check to see if it is oozing liquid. If this happens, press down on casserole lightly and spoon off any liquid.
10. Let stand 15 to 20 minutes before serving.

Notes: (1) You can make the marinara sauce at least one day ahead. Keep refrigerated. (2) You can assemble the eggplant parmesan early in the day, cover, and chill in the refrigerator. Then bake later in the day. (3) Alternately you can wrap the eggplant parmesan and freeze for later. Be certain to wrap it well with both plastic wrap and aluminum foil. When ready to bake, take out the frozen dish and place in the refrigerator overnight. Then when ready to bake put chilled dish in the oven before turning on the temperature.

As we were driving on two lane highways around Lake Geneva the landscape was dominated by farms. For some unknown reason I have always found these landscapes compelling. Not in the same way I find mountain and ocean views compelling, but in a very different way. When I see farms I cannot help but think of how much we depend (but don't always appreciate) on those that dedicate their lives to and make their livelihood off the land. Buying from roadside farmstands and farmer's markets has become my way of helping to support and sustain these small farms. I have also come to believe fruits and vegetables grown on those family and small farms are the most beautiful and have the best flavor. While I attributed the deliciousness of the roasted eggplant parmesan to the cooking technique of Mario Batali, I probably should be giving the most credit to the farmer who grew the eggplant. Great dishes always begin with great ingredients. And who doesn't want to make great?