Monday, June 29, 2020

Peach Buttermilk Ice Cream w/ Raspberry Swirl


It's almost hard to believe we are within days of the halfway point in the year. At my age I really don't like time to move too quickly. However, there are more than a handful of us secretly wishing 2020 was done and over with already. Whatever the next version of normal is going to look like, I am choosing to believe it will be an even better version of the one we had been living in. Yes, better. With all of the time we have been given to reflect back on what was, surely we have all given thought as to what we would like life to be going forward. Not just with the state of the world (who doesn't wish for social justice, the end of the pandemic, medical breakthroughs), but in our own lives too. In her recent Sunday Paper, Maria Shriver talked about her desire to spend more time developing the humble rather than the strong, arrogant side of herself. Instead of investing time in constantly doing to feel validated or to fill the voids in our lives, she believes time spent learning and awakening (our minds) will create the momentum of humility necessary to lead us all forward individually and collectively. Her words resonated with me. The unexpected pause we have all experienced over the last several months may actually turn out not be a waste. Especially if we each use the time going forward to become the best, most awakened, most humble versions of ourselves. Just imagine the possibilities!

It was a bit tongue and cheek when I said there are some of us (yes, I would be among them) wishing 2020 was over. There are still many things to look forward to. Peach season being just one of them. For those of you who love peaches as much as I do, the long awaited arrival of fresh, ripe peaches at the Farmer's Markets and grocery stores is a most welcome sight. Having discovered the deliciousness of grilled peaches and ice cream, salads made with peaches, tomatoes, and burrata cheese, peach cobblers, peach galettes, and even a no-churn peach ice cream, my excitement for the arrival of peach season is akin to a six year old anticipating the arrival of Christmas. Thankfully peach season lasts longer than a day!


After having recently made the Blueberry Mascarpone Ice Cream, I experienced a slight boost to my ice cream making confidence level. For the record, this confidence level hovers somewhere between a four and a five on a scale of one to ten. Yet, this has not deterred me from trying new ice cream recipes. Because each time I make a new ice cream, I learn something new. While there are still gaps in my ice cream making knowledge base, peach season gives me yet another reason to keep filling them. 


Turns out this creamy, luscious Peach Buttermilk Ice Cream w/ Raspberry Swirl is one peach lovers will not only swoon over, but one all of us self-proclaimed ice cream connoisseurs will fall deeply, madly in love with. As someone who considers themselves a peach ice cream fussytarian, I am always on the lookout for the elusive, perfect peach ice cream. Can you guess what I am about to say next? Yes, this Peach Buttermilk Ice Cream w/ Raspberry Swirl is just about perfect. At least it is for me.

The ingredients used and ratios of milks to sugar in this ice cream recipe is different than the ones used in the Blueberry Mascarpone Ice Cream. I thought about switching out the buttermilk for mascarpone cheese, but wanted to make an ice cream with another flavor base profile. Additionally, this recipe calls for more sugar. At first I thought about scaling it back a bit, but then I wouldn't have discovered how sugar affects the texture and consistency of ice cream. From the article "How Does Sugar Affect the Freezing of Ice Cream" written by the Kitchn, I learned two things: (1) the more sugar used in the custard base, the longer the freezing time and (2) the more sugar the smoother, the creamier the ice cream. While I decided not to alter the amount of sugar in the recipe (1 1/2 cups/300g), I did add an additional egg yolk as well as some Kosher salt to further amplify the flavor. 


For someone is a self-proclaimed peach lover, why would I even consider adding a raspberry sauce to the peach ice cream? The simple answer is I love the combination of peach and raspberry. And I really wanted to see how raspberry sauce swirled in the peach buttermilk ice cream would taste. Would I always make the peach ice cream with the raspberry swirl? Not always. But almost always. If you are a peach ice cream purist, just leave the raspberry swirl out. 


Between chilling the custard base and freezing the ice cream, plan on allowing at least a day and half before being able to scoop and serve it. So let me share my lessons learned along the way here. Here's the first one: Rather than just allowing the custard to chill for at least 6 hours, give it at least 8 hours but preferably overnight. Not only will the flavors meld together better, your custard will be very chilled when it goes into the ice cream machine. And here's the second, maybe most important one: Let your well churned ice cream chill overnight in the freezer. Because of the amount of sugar in this ice cream, your well chilled ice cream will still have a great scooping consistency. This is a rich, creamy ice cream. And depending on the temperature outside, it might best be served in a waffle cone cup or a dish. This is definitely one of those 'two scoops' please ice cream!


Peach season doesn't last very long. In other words, if you love peaches make sure you get your fill of them in the months ahead. And if you love peach ice cream, I would suggest you make this Peach Buttermilk Ice Cream w/ Raspberry Swirl sooner rather than later. Because once you make and taste this 'rivals a high-priced, small-batch' ice cream, you will want to put it on regular repeat. Besides, I just don't want you to look back on the peach season and wish you had made this ice cream more often. A year is a long time to wait.

Recipe
Peach Buttermilk Ice Cream w/ Raspberry Swirl

Ingredients
Raspberry Sauce
2 cups (250 g) fresh raspberries
1/2 cup (100 g) granulated sugar
1 teaspoon freshly squeezed lemon juice
1/8 teaspoon Kosher salt

Peach Buttermilk Ice Cream
3 very ripe yellow peaches (1 1/4 pounds), peeled, pitted and coarsely chopped (See notes)
2 Tablespoons freshly squeezed lemon juice
1/2 cup peach preserves (recommend Bonne Maman Peach Preserves)
2 cups heavy whipping cream (do not use ultra-pasteurized)
1 cup buttermilk
1 1/2 cups (300 g) granulated sugar
3 large egg yolks, lightly beaten
2 teaspoons vanilla
1/4 teaspoon Kosher salt

Directions
Raspberry Sauce
1. In a heavy bottomed saucepan, add in the raspberries, granulated sugar, lemon juice and pinch of Kosher salt.
2. Stirring regularly, cook until the mixture reaches a slightly thicken consistency (about 7-8 minutes).
3. Remove from heat and pour the raspberry sauce into a small bowl. Let cool slightly before putting in the refrigerator to chill. Note: Raspberry Sauce should be completely chilled before layering onto the ice cream. Note: You will only use about 2/3 of the raspberry sauce for this ice cream. Save the remainder for another use.

Peach Buttermilk Ice Cream
1. Puree the peaches and lemon juice in a food processor until smooth but with some small pieces still visible. Remove 1 1/2 cups of the puree and transfer to a bowl. Note: You will more than likely have some leftover puree. Save it for another use.
2. Stir the peach preserves and Kosher salt into the peach puree mixture.
3. Cover and let chill in the refrigerator. 
4. In a heavy bottomed saucepan, heat the cream and buttermilk until simmering.
5. Add the sugar and whisk until the sugar is dissolved.
6. Add about 1/4 cup of the milk/sugar mixture to the beaten egg yolks to temper them. Then stir the egg yolk mixture back into the saucepan.
7. Continue cooking the mixture, stirring regularly, until it has thickened and coats the back of a spoon (approximately 6-8 minutes).
8. Remove from the heat and stir in the vanilla.
9. Let the mixture cool slightly. Stir in the peach puree. Cover and chill in the refrigerator for at least 6-8 hours or preferably overnight.
10. Line an 8" x 4" or 8" x 5" metal baking pan with plastic wrap. Set aside. (Or alternately use an insulated ice cream container.)
11. Pour the chilled mixture into the ice cream maker. Process until the ice cream is thick, has a scoopable consistency, and well chilled (approximately 20-30 minutes or according to most manufacturer directions). Notes: Depending on the size of your ice cream machine, you may need to process in two batches. Think achieving the consistency of a thick, frozen yogurt when you are churning the ice cream.
12. Spread one-third of the ice cream into the prepared pan.
13. Top one-third of the raspberry sauce on top of the ice cream base layer. Use a butter knife to gently swirl the raspberry sauce into the ice cream.
14. Repeat for a total of three layers.
15. Wrap the pan with plastic wrap (wrap well to keep air from getting to the ice cream) and place pan in the freezer overnight. Note: This is a very creamy ice cream. If not serving immediately after churning, give it adequate freezing time.
16. Remove ice cream from the refrigerator and scoop into bowls or onto ice cream waffle bowls/cones. Remember: This is a very creamy ice cream.

Notes: (1) The recipe for the Peach-Buttermilk Ice Cream was inspired from a recipe in "Jubilee: Recipes from Two Centuries of African American Cooking" by Toni Tipton-Martin. (2) The Peach-Buttermilk Ice Cream was sinfully delicious all on its' own. So if you aren't a fan of the flavors of peach and raspberry combined, just make the ice cream. (3) To easily peel the peaches, bring a pot of water to a boil over high heat and simultaneously fill.a large bowl with ice cold water/ice cubes. Blanch the peaches for 20 seconds. Remove and immediately place them in the bowl of ice water. Let sit in ice water for 20 seconds. Use a peeler to help slip off the skin.