Monday, November 2, 2020

Green Chile Cornbread


Less than four miles from my home lies a historic treasure, the Graue Mill. This historic grist mill built in 1852 not only ground wheat and other grains produced by local farmers, it also served as one of the stations for the Underground Railroad during and shortly after the end of the Civil War. While I have driven by and stopped to take photographs of and near the Graue Mill for years, it wasn't until I went to an event on the grounds of the Mill a few weeks ago did I learn some of the details of its' significant history. While tours of the Mill have been temporarily suspended due to the ongoing pandemic, a weekend event made it possible for me to buy some bags of the mill's stone ground cornmeal. Unbeknownst to me was learning freshly ground cornmeal can be stored in the freezer to retain its' freshness. So one bag went into the freezer while the other one waited for me to decide what to make with it first. Although it didn't take long for me to make up mind. Partly because of the historic significance of the Graue Mill and partly because I was making a batch of chili for Halloween, some of the stone ground corn meal was destined to be used in this new cornbread recipe.


Cornbread has its' own storied history as well as some very strongly held traditional beliefs about the ingredients used to make it. Toni Tipton-Martin shared in her cookbook 'Jubilee: Recipes from Two Centuries of African American Cooking' her theory about "Southern" cornbread. If it was a "Southern Cornbread" then it seldom or rarely had sugar added to the batter. And if sugar was added then it was reflective of the norms of a particular region. However, this assumption didn't completely hold up as she researched cornbread recipes written by African American cooks as far back as the mid-1800s. It appeared sweeteners, like molasses, were added to cornbread. Thus negating her working theory. However, while many 'Southern' cornbread recipes continue to be made without sugar (or sugar sweeteners), 'Skillet Cornbread' recipes more than likely are sweetened with varying amounts of sugar. But it wasn't until I read through her cookbook did I learn there was a version of cornbread called 'Spanish Cornbread'. Black cookbook authors living in the Southwest and West began incorporating ingredients associated with Mexican cooking, such as hot chile peppers, into their recipes and referring to them as 'Spanish' versions. So when I saw the recipe for Spanish Cornbread, one made with diced green chiles, shredded cheddar cheese, cream corn, and sugar, my taste buds were salivating. And a plan for using the stone ground cornmeal from the historic mill was made.


The recipe for this Green Chile Cornbread was inspired by the Spanish Cornbread recipe Toni Tipton-Martin shared in recent cookbook. While all of the ingredient amounts remained constant, there were some changes made. 


Instead of using minced onion, I used onion powder; the can of minced green chiles was drained before they were added to the batter; and white (instead of yellow) sharp Cheddar cheese was used. These relatively minor changes yielded great results. 


Like most cornbread recipes, wet ingredients and dry ingredients are gently mixed separately before being combined to form the batter. Overmixing the batter will cause a more tough versus a dense, crumby texture.


Sizzling the butter in a cast iron pan in the hot (400 degree) oven ensures your baked cornbread will have a deliciously irresistible crisp, crusty edge. Baking time for the cornbread is somewhere around the thirty minute mark (mine was in the oven for exactly 30 minutes) or until the top is a beautiful golden brown. The aroma of the cornbread baking in the oven is intoxicating.


Never have I tasted such a moist, perfect crumb, flavorful cornbread. The addition of the minced green chiles added an enhancing, rather than overwhelming dimension of flavor. The sugar added just the right amount of sweetness while the grated white sharp Cheddar cheese and creamed corn added moistness. In the first bite I was in cornbread heaven.


The keys to making a great cornbread are twofold: a great recipe and a cast iron pan. You now have a really great recipe! If you already own a cast iron pan, all you need to do is gather the ingredients. If don't yet own a cast iron pan, immediately add it to your list of must have kitchen items. As it's one of the most versatile pans to own. From Dutch Babies, to fruit crisps, to skillet brownies and cookies, to this seriously delicious cornbread, your cast iron skillet will get a significant amount of use. 

This Green Chile Cornbread would pair well with some homemade Chili, homemade Sloppy Joes, or thick slices of a country ham. But I must tell you, warmed up leftovers slathered with a little bit of butter are really good all on their own. Really, really good.

Recipe
Green Chile Cornbread (inspired by the Spanish Cornbread recipe from Toni Tipton-Martin's cookbook 'Jubilee: Recipes from Two Centuries of African American Cooking')
Serves 10-12

Ingredients
1 1/2 cups (6 3/4 ounces/188g) stone ground or yellow cornmeal (See Notes)
1 1/4 cups (163g) all-purpose flour
1/4 cup (50g) granulated sugar
2 teaspoons baking powder
1/2 teaspoon baking soda
1 teaspoon kosher salt
3/4 teaspoon onion powder
1 cup (9 1/2 ounces/273g) creamed corn
1 cup buttermilk
1 (4 ounce) can of green chiles, drained
1 large egg, lightly beaten
1 cup (4 1/2 ounces/117g) white sharp cheddar cheese, shredded
4 Tablespoons unsalted butter

Directions
1. Preheat oven to 400 degrees (F).
2. In a large mixing bowl, whisk together the cornmeal, flour, sugar, baking powder, baking soda, salt and onion powder. Set aside.
3. In a medium sized bowl, combine the creamed corn, buttermilk, drained chiles, and egg. Mix to combine. Stir in the grated cheese.
4. Pour the liquid ingredients into the dry ingredients, stirring just until combined.
5. Add butter to a 10" cast iron skillet. Place in oven and heat until the butter is foamy (approximately 3 to 4 minutes). Remove from oven and swirl the butter around the pan.
6. Immediately pour the cornbread batter into the hot skillet. Bake for 30 minutes or until golden brown on top. 
7. Let rest for 5 to 10 minutes before serving. Serve warm or at room temperature. If kept tightly covered, the cornbread will still be good for 2-3 days. If it lasts that long.

Notes: (1) I used stone ground cornmeal sold only at the Old Graue Mill in Oak Brook, Illinois. However, use any good quality stone ground cornmeal or yellow cornmeal for this recipe.