Saturday, February 2, 2013

Fig, Olive and Walnut Tapenade

Ever since I discovered the tangy, creamy taste of goat cheese, I have been immediately drawn to any recipe that calls for it as an ingredient. And if there isn't a recipe using it, I find a use for it. I love goat cheese on scrambled eggs, on roasted asparagus, on pasta, and in salads.  Thank goodness goat cheese is now so readily available in the grocery store so I don't have to drive far to buy some or wait for the cheesemaker at a weekend Farmer's market.
So when I discovered a recipe for a fig based tapenade served with goat cheese in a Bon Appetit magazine many, many years ago, I knew it was one that I had to make.  From the first bite of this tapenade I was in love, if there is such a thing as being in love with a food. The combination of the figs, olives, and capers along with the balsamic vinegar, olive oil, thyme and walnuts is absolutely heavenly.  Then topped over a sliced baguette spread with softened goat cheese, this tapenade will make you think you have actually died and gone to heaven.  This is food for the Gods.


This morning when I went to my favorite market to pick up a package of dried Calimyrna figs there wasn't a package to be found, or least that is what I thought. I first looked in the section with dried fruits, no luck.  I then went to the produce section as containers or bags of dried fruits can often be found there, again no luck.  So I asked the produce manager if he had any.  He went over to a rack containing packages of dried fruit only to tell me that they must be out, however, he would look in the back but returned empty handed.  Not certain if Turkish figs were the same as Calimyrna figs, I started to do a google search using my phone (ah, if I only had an iPhone where I could ask my questions and have them answered instantaneously).  Between the two of us, I entered every possible question to get the answer I wanted, but to no avail.  So I thanked the produce manager for his time and continued to do some other shopping.  As I was shopping on the other side of the store, I looked up and there was the produce manager holding a bag of the dried Calimyrna figs.  After making a small gasp, I didn't know whether to hug him or high five him.  I went with the high five.  Was this luck I wondered, the finding of this last bag of figs on the rack he had first searched?  Maybe, but his persistence was my good fortune today.
Tapenade was originally a dish consisting of pureed or finely chopped olives, capers, anchovies and olive oil.  Its name comes from the Provencal word for capers, tapenas, and is a food often served with bread as an appetizer.   There are so many different variations of recipes for tapenade, however, without a doubt, the addition of figs and walnuts and the omission of anchovies makes it divinely delicious. If I only took French in high school instead of Spanish, I might have had my first taste of tapenade way back when on a day when everyone would be asked to bring in a French food to serve in class.

Hopefully you will have an easier time finding the dried Calimyrna figs or you will come shop in a store with great customer service.  They really are not that hard to find. Trader Joe's and Whole Foods usually carry them.  For this recipe, a 7 ounce bag will give you a few more than you need, leaving you with a couple to snack on.  The figs are chopped into little bite size pieces.  Try to go for uniform  pieces if you can, but by no means 'do not obsess about this'.

The chopped figs are cooked with some water.  The figs are perfectly softened when the water evaporates.  Because they hold their shape during this cooking process, the little bites add to the texture of the tapenade.

Once the figs are softened they are put into a bowl where you then add the chopped olives, chopped capers, olive oil, balsamic vinegar and chopped thyme.  And oh, don't forget the very slight pinch of sea salt.  Kosher salt works too, but the sea salt just melts into this mixture.  If you are making this recipe early in the day, stop here, cover the bowl and refrigerate.  If you are making it before your guests arrive, you add in the chopped toasted walnuts.  The mixture is then placed on a platter prepared with goat cheese medallions arranged in a circular pattern.
I must warn you about something.  Be careful not to take more than one taste of the tapenade at this point. I guarantee you will not be able to stop.  The sweetness of the figs combined with the tartness of the olives, capers and vinegar is an absolutely wonderful combination of one bite flavors. Remember you are making this as an appetizer.  Explaining to your guests that you had made a fabulous tapenade earlier in the day, but then something went awry.  After sharing you made them something but are not able to serve it, won't get you any points for good intentions.  Particularly if you consumed the tapenade yourself.
So if you can show restraint and are able to refrigerate the mixture at this point, you will need to bring to room temperature to finish before serving.  This tapenade is good cold, but at room temperature it is a completely different dish.  All of the flavors come through when it is room temperature.  Remember to take your goat cheese out for a little while so that it spreads perfectly on bread or crackers.

Recipe
Fig, Olive and Walnut Tapenade (oh so slight adaptation from the Fig and Walnut Tapenade recipe appearing in Bon Appetit, 2001)

Ingredients
1 cup dried Calimyrna figs chopped (about 5 ounces)
1/3 cup water
1/3 cup chopped pitted Kalamata olives
2 Tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
1 Tablespoon balsamic vinegar
1 Tablespoon drained capers, chopped
1 1/2 teaspoons fresh thyme, chopped
1/2 cup walnuts, toasted and chopped
Pinch of sea salt

10-12 ounces of soft goat cheese 
1/4 cup toasted walnut halves for garnishing
Fresh thyme springs for garnishing

French baguette or crackers

Directions
1. Chop figs into small pieces.  Combine with water in a heavy saucepan and cook at medium to high heat until water evaporates and figs are softened, about 5 to 7 minutes.  Remove from heat and transfer to a bowl.
2. Add olives, capers, olive oil, vinegar and thyme. (If not serving immediately stop here and put in a covered dish in the refrigerator for up to 2 days.  If you refrigerate you must bring to room temperature before continuing.)
3. Mix in 1/2 cup toasted chopped walnts.
4. Arrange goat cheese medallions in a circular pattern on a platter.  Spoon tapenade into center of the large goat cheese circle.
5. Garnish with 1/4 cup toasted walnut halves and fresh thyme sprigs (optional)
6. Serve with sliced French baguette or your favorite crackers.  
7. Remember to serve room temperature.

I like to serve things that are a little out of the ordinary but have ingredients that are familiar to most.  Sometimes there is comfort and safety in serving the more predictable appetizers.  And sometimes this can be a little boring.  So I encourage you to show your family and friends that you are a little unpredictable.  Could it be a good thing to keep everyone just a little off balance about you?  Maybe, it just might depend on your friends.
And oh yes, this tapenade is so good that it may enable you to make converts out those who are not wild about olives. This may sound a tad wicked, but unless you have guests who are allergic to olives, don't tell them what is in this.  Let them first have the experience of this tapenade.  It could there lucky day! It may even give those who have never eaten goat cheese a reason to.  Such gifts you would be giving your friends in this one simple appetizer!
Served with a french baguette sliced you have a perfect appetizer for a dinner party, cocktail party or just an impromptu gathering of friends.  Thank goodness I had enough restraint to take only one taste this morning.  Otherwise, it might be just the usual cheese platter tonight!