Thursday, March 6, 2014

French Onion Soup


I don't know about you but I remember 'firsts'. I may momentarily forget the name of an author of a book I just read or not remember if there is brown sugar in the pantry, but firsts, well they seem to be permanently etched in my memory. However, truth me told there are a few firsts I would like to permanently forget. But definitely not on the first forget list was my first taste of French Onion Soup. It could not have been in a more memorable location, the restaurant on the breath taking grounds of the Domaine Chandon Vineyard in Yountville, California on a beautiful sunny November day more than twenty-five years ago (I could probably be specific as to the actual year but I like being in a state of semi-denial with regard to my age). The experience the tastes of French Onion Soup covered in melted gruyere cheese and a glass of Champagne on my palate could only be described as pure bliss.

What is not to love about a soup originating in the kitchens of 18th century France? For some reason many of us don't think of French Onion Soup as peasant food (it was). Maybe because caramelized onions, a rich beef or chicken stock and gruyere cheese don't seem anything like common ingredients. Yet, indeed onions, beef stock and cheese easily and magically transform into something extraordinary. A timeless, classic dish. If you have been reluctant to make this classic soup, it is time to get over your hesitation and trepidation. And if making French Onion Soup for the 'first' time, it should prove to be a memorable not forgettable experience. Or in other words a first worth repeating.


In the compilation of Julia Child's 100 most beloved recipes, French Onion Soup (Soupe a l'Oignon) ranked 88. Not that one needs a reason to make any one of Julia Child's 3,700 recipes, but why make anyone else's version of French Onion Soup?


One and a half pounds or about 5 cups of yellow onions (not enough to bring tears to your eyes as you cut them) are thinly sliced. Four relatively large yellow onions yielded a little more than 1.5 pounds of sliced onions. I decided to go with the weighing on the scale versus the measuring in the measuring cup method.

In a deep heavy saucepan melt three tablespoons of unsalted butter with one tablespoon of extra virgin olive oil. When the butter has melted, add the sliced onions. Cover the pan and on a low heat cook for 15 minutes. The onions will have wilted beautifully but will not yet begin to take on any color. Add one teaspoon of salt and 1/2 teaspoon of sugar (Julia recommended 1/4 teaspoon of sugar), raise the heat to moderate and cook for 35 to 45 minutes or until the onions have turned an even, golden brown color. You will need to stir these onions frequently to ensure they do not burn. I found the caramelization process was a little easier if the pan was partially covered with the lid. Just remember, you cannot walk away from this phase of the cooking process. The caramelization of the onions is where the depth of flavor is developed. Be patient, you will be rewarded.


Once the onions have caramelized, stir in three tablespoons of flour and stir for 3 minutes. Remove the pan from the heat and slowly add in the half cup of white wine. The wine helps to deglaze the pan and removes all of those wonderful bits of flavor from the bottom of the pan. Add in the 7-8 cups (Julia recommended the full 8 cups) of boiling beef stock and season to taste. Go easy on the salt as you will increase the saltiness of the soup when you add the cheese later on. With the pan partially cover, return the pan to the stove and simmer for 30 to 40 minutes.


The perfect time to make the croutons is while the soup is simmering. In a 325 degree preheated oven, place 1/4 to 1 inch slices of french bread on a baking sheet and roast for up to 30 minutes or until they have completely dried out and lightly browned.


Julia's recipe calls for 1 to 2 cups of grated swiss cheese. I love the nuttiness of gruyere cheese so this is what I used. You can also use a combination of swiss and parmesan cheeses or a combination of gruyere and comte cheeses.

Before ladling the soup into bowls, add the three tablespoons of Cognac (you will not be sorry, actually you will be sorry if you don't). If you don't have Cognac you can use French Brandy. And if you don't have either, well this would be a reason to buy some.

Once the soup is ladled into the bowls add a tablespoon of grated cheese to each one and stir until it has melted.


Top each bowl of soup with three or four croutons. Top each crouton with the a small dab of butter before sprinkling on the grated cheese. Place the soup filled oven proof bowls in a 325 degree oven and bake for 20 minutes. Set the bowls under the broiler for 1 to 2 minutes in order to lightly brown the top. Serve and enjoy. 

This French Onion Soup is a first course or a meal all by itself (maybe along with a small salad, some wine and, of course, a little more bread). 

Recipe
French Onion Soup (adaptation of Julia Child's Soupe a l'Oignon Gratinee in Volume One of Mastering the Art of French Cooking)
Serves 6-8

Ingredients
1 1/2 - 2 pounds thinly sliced yellow onions (about 3 to 4 large onions)
3 Tablespoons unsalted butter
1 Tablespoon extra virgin olive oil
1 teaspoon Kosher salt
1/2 teaspoon granulated sugar
3 Tablespoons all-purpose flour
6-7 cups of beef stock (homemade or a good quality store bought stock)
1/2 cup dry white wine
Salt and pepper to taste
2-3 Tablespoons of Cognac or French Brandy (optional but highly recommend)
Rounds of a tasted baguette or sliced artisan bread
8-10 ounces finely grated Swiss cheese (recommend Gruyere cheese) 
4 ounces freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano
additional softened butter

Directions
1. Place sliced onions in a heavy saucepan with three tablespoons of melted butter and one tablespoon of olive oil. Cover pan and cook on low heat for 15-20 minutes until the onions are tender and translucent.
2. Add 1 teaspoon of Kosher salt and 1/2 teaspoon of granulated sugar to onions, increase heat to moderate and cook onions for 35 to 45 minutes (until onions are a deep golden brown).
3. Add 3 tablespoons of flour to onion mixture and continue cooking for 3 minutes.
4. Remove pan from heat and add 1/2 cup white wine slowly, stirring to scrap up the caramelized bits of onion on bottom of pan. Pour in 7 to 8 cups of boiling beef stock. Season with salt and pepper.
5. Return soup mixture to stove and simmer for another 30-40 minutes.
6. Optional: Add three tablespoons of cognac (or French Brandy) to soup. Ladle soup into four to six soup bowls.
7. Preheat oven to 350 degrees (F).
8. Add one tablespoon of grated Swiss cheese in each bowl, stir until cheese has melted.
9. Top each bowl with three to four croutons or a slice of a toasted piece of artisan bread. Generously top with the grated cheese. Lightly drizzle some olive oil over the top.
10. Place soup bowls on a baking sheet and bake for 30 minutes in the 350 degree preheated oven.
11. Optional: Add another tablespoon of grated cheese to soup bowls and place under broiler for 1-2 minutes or until the top is lightly browned. Serve and enjoy!!

Recipe and Photos Updated March, 2020


I have been in the (ugh) learning curve in the last week, more specifically a (double ugh) physical learning curve, which for me is much more challenging than an intellectual one. Not to infer that I consider myself smart (yes I have the doctorate book smarts, yet the jury is still out on the common sense smarts), however I would with a rather high degree of confidence characterize myself as a bit of a wimp (in my world wimp means my head convinces my body to give up sometimes more often or sooner than it should). But the time finally came for me to change my wimp status, thus explaining why I got myself into this initially difficult (hard on my ego) learning curve status.

For years I have heard other speak (in a somewhat zealous sort of way) of the benefits yoga has on one's mind, soul and body (aren't we sometimes just a little skeptical of those who speak with about anything with such intensity). But then again who does not want this holy trinity functioning at high levels? Getting my body to shift from being tight and inflexible to loose and flexible is temporarily getting in the way of experiencing that trifecta. I don't know where this 'first' exposure to and experience with yoga will ultimately take my mind, spirit or body (hopefully to a place of great balance). However, as much as I am looking forward to this journey, I can hardly to wait to forget what the initial 'first' exposure feels like.