Thursday, August 7, 2014

Tomato, Onion, and Roasted Lemon Salad


From sandwiches made with warm, ripe tomatoes, white bread, some sea salt and mayonnaise to a salad made of any size or variety of tomato dressed ever so lightly in olive oil and fresh herbs, summer tomatoes ramp up the flavor of these simple creations to exponential levels. There are probably only three, maybe four months a year I eat or rather overdose on fresh tomatoes. For the remaining nine months of the year I go on a (fresh) tomato fast rather than take a bite of any of the tomato impostors found in the grocery stores from October through June. If only going on a carbohydrate or chocolate fast could be as easy.

Summer also happens to be that time of the year when you hope friends and/or neighbors will keep you in mind when their tomato plants yield a harvest even the most zealous of all tomato aficionados are unable to consume. But in the event your friends/neighbors don't garden or you don't have friends/neighbors who garden, thankfully there are farmer's markets selling an ever increasing variety of tomatoes. And in recent years, the availability of my newest favorite heirloom tomatoes has grown significantly.


When I saw Yotam Ottolenghi's Tomato, Onion, and Roasted Lemon Salad on the cover of Bon Appetit's August issue, I had to keep myself from drooling in public. Before even opening the magazine to look at the recipe, I anticipated a new kind of transformational simplicity would be brought to the tomato salad as only as Ottolenghi could. He did not disappoint. Actually he never disappoints.


It had to be either fortuitous or knowingly deliberate when I chose to plant mint, parsley and sage in my garden containers earlier this spring. Had I known there would be a tomato salad recipe calling for these three herbs, I wouldn't have used so many containers for flowers. Because when one thinks of a tomato salad one doesn't normally think of mint, parsley or sage. But that is the genius of Ottolenghi. 


Lemon slices tossed in extra-virgin olive oil, barely the hint of sugar and sage are roasted in the oven. With the bitterness of the lemons removed from a quick boil before roasting, they add yet another dimension of flavor to the salad. Whether you use a lemon or a Meyer lemon may not matter, but if you have a choice, chose the Meyer lemon.


When I looked at the dressing ingredients, I wondered if one tablespoon of extra virgin olive oil, one tablespoon of pomegranate molasses, some allspice, salt and pepper to dress one and one-half pounds of tomatoes was enough. Again, why I even questioned Ottolenghi's wisdom was pure silliness. Not only was it enough, it was the perfect amount of dressing to bring out, yet not mask the flavors of the tomatoes, sliced red onion, roasted lemon and herbs.


When it was mixed together it truly is a feast for the eyes. Honestly if it was not an Ottolenghi recipe I may not have taken the 'risk' to make it. Until I took my first bite I was wondering how to wrap my head around what a salad dressing using allspice and pomegranate molasses would taste like. The explosion of flavors of this salad and its' dressing turned out to be nothing short of amazing. 


The Tomato, Onion, and Roasted Lemon Salad could be served along with a fresh baguette as the main course for lunch or as a side to accompany chicken, fish and even red meat for dinner. The lemon slices can be roasted earlier in the day, however, this is a salad at its' best when served freshly tossed. Should there be any leftovers, cover and refrigerate them so you can enjoy them all by yourself. Some leftovers were not meant to be shared. Not only would this be one of them, you can safely drool over this salad in the privacy of your own home. 

Recipe
Tomato, Onion, and Roasted Lemon Salad (barely a change to Yotam Ottolenghi's recipe shared in Bon Appetit)

Ingredients
1 lemon, halved lengthwise, thinly sliced, seeds removed (recommend using a Meyer lemon)
1 Tablespoon fresh sage leaves, thinly sliced
1/2 teaspoon superfine sugar
2 Tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, divided
1 Tablespoon pomegranate molasses
1/2 teaspoon ground allspice
1 1/2 pounds mixed small tomatoes, halved (suggest a mixture of  heirloom, cherry, and Sun Gold)
1/2 small red onion, thinly sliced
1/4 cup fresh flat leaf parsley leaves with stems
1/4 cup fresh mint leaves, torn if large
1/4 cup arugula microgreens or purple sprouts (optional)
Kosher salt and freshly ground pepper

Directions
1. Preheat oven to 325 degrees.
2. In a medium saucepan of boiling water, cook lemon slices for two minutes to remove bitterness. Drain and pat dry.
3. Toss lemon slices, sage, sugar, and 1 Tablespoon of extra-virgin olive oil in a medium bowl. Spread on a parchment paper lined baking sheet. Bake for 15-20 minutes or until lemons are no longer wet and only slightly colored. Allow to cool.
4. Whisk together pomegranate molasses, allspice and remaining 1 Tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil in  a large bowl. Season with Kosher salt and freshly ground pepper.
5. Add lemons, tomatoes, onion, parsley, mint, and micro-greens (or sprouts). Toss gently. Season with salt and pepper. Serve immediately.

Note: When looking for pomegranate molasses in your grocery store, look first in the aisle with Middle Eastern and/or Mediterranean foods.