Wednesday, October 22, 2014

Chicken Liver Pate with Pickled Shallots


I have shared my love of reading here on blog before. What I have not shared is how I come to select the fiction and non-fiction books lining the bookshelves and sitting in stacks in various rooms in the house. Like most everyone I anxiously await books written by my favorite authors, read book reviews, and get recommendations from friends. But I also choose books (written by unfamiliar authors) with covers I find interesting. That old adage 'you can't judge a book by its' cover' isn't always true, because sometimes you really can. The method of selecting a book by its' cover and reading the book jacket has worked more often than not. Recently I came across A Boat, a Whale and a Walrusa new cookbook written by Renee Erickson, a chef from Seattle, and someone who I was not familiar with (gasp). However, in the last month I have bought four new cookbooks (excessive even for me) and decided this was enough for awhile. But this was a book cover and title I was finding hard to resist. Without even skimming through the book or looking at the table of contents, it became the fifth cookbook purchased this month. After finally sitting down to read a few pages of the well written narratives and leafing through the beautiful photos, I thought 'this may be one of the best cookbooks I have bought all year'. Then I made her Chicken Liver Pate recipe. And let's just say it is going to a very long while before I make (or rather if I make) any of the other pate recipes I have made (and loved) over the years.


The discovery of this cookbook and chef is just one example of the incredible, almost 'higher power had a hand in' discoveries (and rediscoveries) made in the last couple of weeks. Every October for the past forty years, there has been an annual fall antique show here attracting dealers from across the country. It also attracts some serious and some not so serious collectors. Living away for the past several years had kept me from what had become an annual antique show tradition (no not for the past forty years, although I wish I had discovered this show forty years ago).

Generally when I am at a really good antique show I see nothing but the antiques on display in the booths. Brad Pitt, George Clooney, or Harrison Ford could be standing right in front of me and I wouldn't see them (I would only be wondering why the noise level around me was elevated). But something made me look up as I was walking down an aisle and standing almost in front of me was a friend I had not seen in a very, very, very long time, you might say, too long. In spite of time (and distance) we were both immediately thrilled to have rediscovered one another. After a short reconnection we made tentative plans to get together before each continuing the search for treasures (she is the more serious collector, one with a really great enviable eye).

Later on in the day I stopped to engage in conversation with a handsome, young antique dealer. After making a small purchase from his booth, I asked where he got his love and eye for antiques. He shared he grew up with them but had learned the most from two antique dealers from New Hampshire. Before I could say anything he asked if I wanted to meet them as they had a booth at the show. Well much to his surprise no introductions were necessary as I had known these two dealers for more than 25 years (but had not seen in a very, very long time). In less than two hours, my path crossed with three friends I had let life get in the way of staying connected with. What are the odds of this happening?

Finding a great antique pewter platter at the antique show paled in comparison to finding these friends. This turned out to be one of those great 'the stars were aligned' kind of days.


Putting the platter and cookbook to good use were my priorities once I got over the incredulousness of reconnecting with friends on the same day, in the same place (although I haven't really gotten over it yet). Whenever I buy a new cookbook I generally like to start with some of the simpler recipes. Because if the simple ones turn out to be amazing, then almost always the more complex ones will as well. By now you should have figured out my logic on most things follows its own path.

The Liver Pate with Pickled Shallots not only sounded delicious, but with ingredients like butter, port and currants, it was one of those irresistible recipes. As someone who happens to love a really good pate, I have been on a quest to find the 'perfect' one for years. My quest has now ended.


There are at least nine different kinds of port. This recipe calls for a tawny port or one with more aging in the barrel time before being bottled. As a result an aging process lasting anywhere from 3 to 40 years, a tawny port develops a dry nutty flavor with raisin overtones and causes the port to take on a more red-brown versus red-purple color. Real tawny ports are marked with its' age. It is not necessary to use the most expensive tawny port in this recipe, just one you would also love drinking.


In almost every pickled onion or pickled shallot recipe I have come across, the vinegar, sugar and salt are heated before the sliced vegetables are added. But not this one.

Thinly sliced shallots need to marinate in champagne vinegar, some sugar and some salt for at least two hours. The result is a crisp, flavorful pickled shallot. However, continuing to marinate over night in the refrigerator further developed the flavor of the shallots. The pickled shallots will last in the refrigerator up to two months in a sealed, covered jar. They won't last more than a couple of weeks here.


Once the chicken livers, finely diced onions, finely diced garlic, salt and port are cooked in a large sauté pan, they need to cool slightly. The recommended cool down time was 5 minutes, but I waited about 10 minutes before transferring the mixture to the food processor. After briefly pulsing the liver/onion/garlic mixture, the remaining ingredients were added. In order to get the mixture as smooth and creamy as possible process for at least two minutes. To add to its' creaminess the mixture is pushed through a fine mesh strainer. Now here is where I wasn't either patient or strong enough. After pushing the half of the processed mixture through the strainer, I decided (rationalized) a little bit of texture to the pate would be a good thing. So I mixed what was left in the strainer with what had been strained.


Lining a 4x6 or 4x8 inch pan with plastic wrap, the mixture is poured in, covered and allowed to chill overnight in the refrigerator. This pate sets up beautifully. 

Toast or grill a hearty bread or baguette brushed lightly with extra-virgin olive oil to go with the pate. 


And thick slices arranged on a plate with the pickled onions, grilled bread or baguettes, and some cornichons make for either a perfect starter to a meal or the perfect accompaniment for cocktails only. The creamy texture of the pate, the pickled onions, and grilled bread is a combination hard to resist, even for those who claim not to be big fans of pate (this pate will make converts of them, seriously it will). Hahn Vineyard's Meritage or Pinot Noir would pair perfectly with this pate, but serve whatever is your favorite red. 

Recipe
Chicken Liver Pate with Pickled Shallots (inspired by Renee Erickson's Boat House Chicken Liver Pate recipe shared in her recently release cookbook A Boat, a Whale and a Walrus)

Ingredients
Pickled Shallots
1 pound shallots, peeled and cut into circular, slightly less than 1/4 inch, slices 
2 cups champagne vinegar
3/4 teaspoon kosher salt
3/4 teaspoon granulated sugar
Pate
1 cup (2 sticks) unsalted butter, room temperature, divided
1 medium onion, finely chopped
3 cloves garlic, finely chopped
1 pound chicken livers
3 Tablespoons of a tawny Port (one at least 10 years old)
1 teaspoon kosher salt
1/4 cup dried currants
1/4 cup heavy cream
1 Tablespoon dry mustard
1/2 teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg
1/4 teaspoon Aleppo pepper
Sea salt for finishing (recommend Maldon)
Grilled sourdough bread or baguette toasts
Cornichons, optional 

Directions
Pickled Shallots
1. Toss the sliced shallots with kosher salt and sugar in a small bowl. Add champagne vinegar and stir. Allow the mixture to marinate for two hours (stirring occasionally) before serving. Note: Would recommend allowing the marinate overnight in the refrigerator (after first marinating at room temperature for two hours).

Pate
1. Melt one stick of salted butter in a large sauté pan. Add finely chopped onions and garlic (sauté for 3 minutes stirring often).
2. Add livers, port and salt. Cook for 6 to 8 minutes (stirring often) or until the livers have cooked evenly and the livers are no longer bleeding (my cook time was 8 minutes). Remove from heat and allow to rest for at least 10 minutes.
3. Transfer liver/onion/garlic mixture to a food processor. Pulse briefly to break up the livers before adding additional ingredients.
4. Add remaining stick of butter, currants, cream, dry mustard, freshly grated nutmeg, and Aleppo pepper. Process for at least 2 minutes or until the mixture is completely smooth.
5. Push mixture through a fine mesh strainer set over a large bowl, using a rubber spatula to press mixture through. Note: I strained half of the mixture, then combined the strained mixture with what was left in the strainer. 
6. Line a 4x6 inch or 4x8 inch pan with plastic wrap. Pour mixture in pan, gently knock pan on counter to release air bubbles, smooth top with an off set spatula, and cover with plastic wrap. Chill overnight.
7. Unmold pate onto a cutting board. Using a knife that has been run under hot water, cut thick slices of the pate and serve. Sprinkle each slice with (Maldon) sea salt .
8. Serve with toasted or grilled bread or baguettes.

Harbor views in New Bedford, Massachusetts and Vineyard Haven on Martha's Vineyard (September 2014).