Thursday, November 13, 2014

Roasted Onion Arugula Salad with Walnut Salsa


This past week I had dinner with a sorority sister I had not seen in decades. While we lived in relative close proximity to one another, our life paths never seemed to intersect. Yet in spite of this, along with our different life experiences, and the fact that we have both aged (gracefully of course), the person sitting across the table from me was still the same person that had sat across the table from me at 'house' dinners way back when. As we were seated at one of those 'community' tables, I couldn't help but laugh as this wasn't any different than dinner at a community table in the sorority house. Well, okay it was a little different. The food was better (homemade guacamole and fish tacos worth driving a hundred miles for were not sorority house fare) and alcoholic beverages replaced glasses of milk (if anyone in the house had alcohol at the dinner table I would have been clueless at the time). As corny or cliche as this may seem, there really are some bonds formed in our lives that never break, no matter how much the same or different two people may be and no matter how much time passes.

In the million different conversations we had during dinner, we discovered we both had a passion for sharing our love of food with others (she as a former caterer, me as a food blogger), were inspired by Martha Stewart (we probably could have but didn't recall in detail those early Martha Stewart holiday specials), and remembered the pre-Food Network and Cooking Channel days when there were only a handful of cooking shows on television.


As much as I would like to believe I can recall both recent and past events with great clarity, it was somewhat amusing when I received not one, but two copies of Yotam Ottolenghi''s newest cookbook "Plenty More". Apparently getting on the computer in the middle of a sleepless night causes one to repeat actions taken during more fully awake moments. (Note to self: Stay off the computer at three in the morning.) Rather than send one back, I gave one of the cookbooks to my sister as an early birthday present (because her birthday falls just days after Christmas and I don't always give it the fanfare she deserves). Separately we both seemed to be intrigued by several of the same recipes. Not only did she make Ottolenghi's Red Onions with Walnut Salsa before I did, so did Food52.

When I first saw the recipe for this salad I thought it would be a perfect start for this year's Thanksgiving dinner. Normally I don't make a salad for Thanksgiving (too many sides, too many desserts preoccupy my mind and time), but there was just something about this salad that made me rethink the menu, rethink serving a salad. Let me be so bold as to say now the Roasted Onion Arugula Salad with Walnut Salsa is a perfect salad to pretty much start any meal, not just for Thanksgiving. I go even further and say that arugula, parsley, and roasted red onions lightly dressed with a chile walnut salsa (to give it some 'bite') and topped with goat cheese might even be a perfect salad. Leave it to Ottolenghi to create another masterpiece, another genius recipe. Maybe I should be so surprised that this  was one of the recipes in the book that captured the attention of others as well.


I love red onions, but I love them even more roasted as they transform into bites of incredible, addictive, just the right amount of sweetness deliciousness. When the fall arrives, the quality of red onions available at the markets and grocery stores makes a noticeable shift even though red onions can be found year round.

Ottolenghi's recipe suggests the onions to be cut into 3/4" rings and baked in a preheated 425 degree oven for 40 minutes. Mine were cut into approximately 1/2" rings and were perfectly baked at 40 minutes. Before going into the preheated oven, the red onions are lightly brushed with extra-virgin olive oil and sprinkled with kosher salt and black pepper.

Ottolenghi refers to the dressing as a salsa. Toasted walnuts, a finely diced chile, red wine vinegar, extra-virgin and salt are an unexpected combination of ingredients resulting in an unexpected refreshing 'dressing'. Using a red jalapeño instead of a red chile and toasting the walnuts were the changes made to the salsa. The red jalapeño had some heat, but not so much that it was a distraction. When choosing which red chile to use based on how much 'heat' you like, a pepper scale may help you decide. You will see my 'heat' tolerance is on the lower side.

Most salad dressings have a 3 to 1 olive oil to vinegar ratio, however, Ottolenghi reverses this ratio. Three tablespoons of red wine vinegar and one tablespoon of extra-virgin olive oil create a dressing or 'salsa' that is just the right amount of tart. Allow the 'salsa' to marinate while the red onions roast to allow the flavors to fully develop.


Arugula and parsley pair perfectly with the roasted red onions. I increased the amount of arugula to two cups (instead of one) but did not proportionately increase the amount of parsley (but will the next time). There was just enough of the salsa for the increased amount of arugula, however, should I increase the amount of arugula even more the amount of salsa will need to slightly increase. This salad is not heavily dressed in the salsa and it shouldn't be or the flavors of the greens and roasted red onions will get lost. Besides who wants an overdressed salad?


There can be such a thing as the overuse of an ingredient, like kale (when will this overuse of an ingredient come to an end?). And goat cheese may also be one of the ingredients often accused of being one of them. There are times when goat cheese compliments a dish (like this salad) and times when it doesn't (like any dish having a strong lemon flavor). The creaminess of the goat cheese helps to balance out all of the flavors of the salad. Don't even think of replacing the goat cheese with any other cheese.


After a very light salting of the greens, I used about 1/3 of the salsa to dress the arugula before adding the warm roasted onions. The remaining 2/3's of the salsa was spread over the red onions and greens followed by topping with crumbled goat cheese. Ottolenghi doesn't just create dishes delicious to eat, he makes them beautiful to look at.

I am pretty confident my family and friends will be happy to see (and taste) this Roasted Onion Arugula Salad with Walnut Salsa on the Thanksgiving table and even happier that my change to the holiday menu doesn't include something made with kale (can you guess we have never jumped on this bandwagon?). After the appetizers, this salad will awaken everyone's palates, the surprise reprieve needed before the rich, heavy Thanksgiving meal that lies ahead. I didn't think it was possible for my anticipation for Thanksgiving to increase any more. But the Roasted Onion Arugula Salad with Walnut Salsa may have done just that.
Recipe
Roasted Onion Arugula Salad with Walnut Salsa (slight adaptation to Yotam Ottolenghi's Red Onions with Walnut Salsa recipe from his newest cookbook Plenty More)

Ingredients
4 medium red onions (about 1 1/2 pounds), peeled and sliced into 1/2 inch rings (about three rings per onion)
1 1/2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
1/4 teaspoon kosher salt
black pepper
2 cups of arugula (original recipe called for one cup)
1 cup of chopped flat leaf parsley (original recipe called for 1/2 cup)
2 ounces goat cheese, crumbled

2/3 cups walnuts, toasted and coarsely chopped
1 red jalapeño, seeded and finely chopped (about 3-4 Tablespoons) - original recipe called for a red chile
2 cloves of garlic, crushed (original recipe called for 1 clove)
3 Tablespoons red wine vinegar
1 Tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil
1/4 teaspoon kosher or sea salt

Directions
1. Preheat oven to 425 degrees. Line baking sheet with parchment paper.
2. Place sliced onions on baking sheet, brush with extra-virgin olive oil, sprinkle with 1/4 teaspoon kosher salt and some black pepper. Roast for approximately 40 minutes or until onions are cooked and have browned lightly. Set aside to cook briefly.
3. While onions are roasting, put all of the salsa ingredients in a small bowl, stir and set aside (keep at room temperature).
4. On a large platter, toss together the arugula and parsley. Sprinkle very lightly with kosher or sea salt. Toss greens with 1/3 of the salsa.
5. Place roasted onions on top of partially mixed greens. Spread remaining 2/3's of the salsa over the onions and greens. Top with crumbled goat cheese.
6. Serve immediately.

"Whatsoever things are true, whatsoever things are honest, whatsoever things are just, whatsoever things are pure, whatsoever things are lovely, whatsoever things are of good report; if there be any virtue, and if there be any praise, think on these things." (Philippians 4:8 King James Version). I first heard those words in college. While there may be some things that I really have forgotten, these words have stayed with me. Reconnecting with a college friend and with the Thanksgiving holiday almost upon us reminded me how timeless and how simple, yet how profound these words are.