Be careful what you wish for or so the saying goes. The polar vortex is on the verge of making a return here in the midwest. In trying to capture some of the early morning images of the first January snowfall, I drove on icy, slippery roads up to the Chicago Botanic Gardens (I was on a mission), however, it didn't take long for the tips of my fingers to feel painfully frostbitten (what was I thinking?) as I was juggling between using my camera as well as the camera on my phone. My #winterwonderland photo expedition would have lasted longer if I wasn't such a bitter cold weather wimp. I have a renewed appreciation for those having the capacity to endure harsh weather conditions. With a high degree of certainty, I am predicting there will be more snow days (maybe some with milder temperatures) in the weeks and months ahead giving me no shortage of winter/snow landscape photo taking opportunities. As happy as I was about driving without incident on slightly treacherous roads as well as managing to get some pretty good photos, I was happier to be going home to finish making the Savory Beef Brisket started the day before.
There has always been something special about 'firsts' for me regardless of their perceived level of significance. Actually all 'firsts' become significant, only some become memorable. Making the Savory Beef Brisket was one of those significant and memorable 'firsts'. As hard as it is to believe (especially for someone as old as I am), I had never made a brisket before (gasp!). For those you who might have lived without yet making a brisket, I can now say 'you have not lived until you have made a brisket'. You think that might be a little too dramatic? Well maybe. So let me reframe my words ever so slightly. 'You haven't lived until you have made a Savory Beef Brisket'. Sometimes a little drama gets us to do something.
What has taken me so long to 'get a life'? Maybe it is because brisket isn't something I grew up eating although it is usually the only thing I order at a barbecue restaurant. Maybe it is because I was focusing less on the brisket at Passover dinners I had been invited to and more on the rituals. Or maybe I under appreciated the slow cooker seeing it more as a convenience tool rather one having the ability to transform tougher cuts of meat into luscious, mouthwatering tender bites. Whatever the reason or reasons, the brisket-making draught is over and I could not be happier. Seriously.
A beef brisket is the cut of meat from the breast or lower chest of the cow. Generally considered one of the tougher cuts of meat, brisket becomes tenderized when cooked slowly, very slowly. Typically a brisket is cooked for approximately one hour per pound at a temperature of 250 degrees. Because the low setting of most slow cookers is somewhere around 200 degrees, the cooking time for a brisket in a slow cooker is closer to 75 minutes per pound. If the use of a slow cooker results in a juicer, moister, more tender brisket; then the use of spices and the marinade contributes to its depth of flavor.
To sear or not to sear, that is a question. Searing meat seals in its' moisture resulting in a juicier finish is more myth than fact. This important flavor-producing technique (the Maillard reaction) is more than just 'browning' the meat. In actuality, searing meat over a high heat caramelizes the surface of the meat creating a deeper 'savory' meat flavor. Whether you are making a brisket for the first time or have made it on countless occasions, I hope you sear. You will be rewarded for the extra-effort.
The second, maybe most critical, flavor enhancing step in the making of this brisket is caramelizing the onions. Just like we wouldn't consider building a house without a foundation, we shouldn't even think about building a brisket 'sauce' without caramelizing the onions. Think of this process as creating the 'foundation'. There are many onion options out there. I went with using two Spanish and one Red onion for their varying levels of sweetness as well as their ability to be caramelized. When selecting your onions think 'large'.
Garlic cloves and a myriad of spices (garlic powder, onion powder, black pepper, Aleppo pepper, thyme, oregano and paprika) added to the caramelized onions bring yet another layer of flavor to the brisket and the sauce.
The marinade, which ultimately becomes the sauce, for the brisket is made with light brown sugar, beef broth, chill sauce and ketchup. Yes, ketchup. When combined with the flavors of the brisket, the caramelized onions and the spices, the result is the kind of sauce you want to mop up with bread because you don't want to or dare not leave any of it behind on your plate.
Making brisket is a lesson in patience. First, the brisket cooks for up to 10 hours on the low setting in a slow cooker. Allowed to cool, it is covered and placed in the refrigerator overnight as this helps to further develop its flavor. After inhaling the aroma of the brisket cooking for the better part of a day, you will be tempted to want to eat it immediately. Waiting to enjoy the brisket may sound a tad torturous (and it is), but some things are worth the wait.
After removing any fat in the chilled sauce, the brisket is placed on a cutting board and sliced. Not only is it easier to slice the brisket when it is chilled, it greatly reduces the amount of time needed to reheat it before serving.
Call it synchronicity, but as I was making the Savory Beef Brisket I just happened to change the channel on the television. There was Sara Moulton (chef and cookbook author) midway through the process of making a brisket. In addition to reinforcing the process of slicing the chilled brisket before reheating it, she recommended before putting a lid on (or tightly sealing with aluminum foil) the pan to place a piece of parchment paper directly on top of the brisket to further seal in the moisture. When Sara Moulton talks, I listen.
Before carefully placing the sliced brisket in the pan, I pureed half of the 'sauce' in the food processor and poured it into the bottom of the pan. The remaining 'sauce' was then poured over the sliced brisket. In a preheated 250 degree oven, the brisket is cooked for approximately one hour (or until heated through and signs of a bubbling sauce).
Brisket is often served over egg noodles or mashed potatoes. Instead of those traditional options, I opted to serve it with the Lemony Potato Salad. The contrast in flavors of cool, lemony flavor of the potato salad and the warm, mildly spicy beef brisket were not only complimentary to one another, it was the perfect non-traditional combination. As a finishing garnish to the brisket, I sautéed another large red onion.
Not exactly a refined culinary description, but this Savory Beef Brisket was pure insane, wicked, melt in your mouth deliciousness (in 2015 I really do need to work on describing the taste of food better). How I have lived this long and had never made a brisket before is another kind of insanity. Thank goodness this period of my life is over. I definitely need to make up for lost time in the year ahead.
Savory Beef Brisket (inspired by Deb Perelman's Tangy Spiced Brisket recipe which was inspired by Emeril Lagasse's Passover Brisket recipe)
Ingredients
3 large onions, sliced (recommend using 2 large Spanish Onions and 1large red onion)
2-3 Tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
6 large garlic cloves, peeled and halved
1 teaspoon paprika
2 teaspoons Kosher salt
1 1/2 teaspoons garlic powder
1 1/4 teaspoons black pepper
1 1/2 teaspoons onion powder
1/8 to 1/4 teaspoon Aleppo pepper (or can use cayenne pepper) Note: I used 1/8 teaspoon.
1/2 teaspoon dried oregano
1/2 teaspoon dried thyme
2 cups beef broth (recommend Swanson's)
1 cup ketchup (I am a Heinz girl)
1 generous cup chili sauce (recommend using Bennett's Chili Sauce)
1 cup light brown sugar, firmly packed
7 to 10 pound beef brisket, untrimmed (a 7 1/4 pound fit perfectly in my All-Clad Slow Cooker)
Optional: 1 additional large red onion and 1 Tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil
Directions
1. In a large skillet, sauté the three onions in extra-virgin olive oil over medium heat until caramelized (approximately 15 minutes of cooking time).
2. Reduce heat to low and add garlic cloves, sautéing for additional 3 minutes.
3. Stir in paprika, garlic powder, onion powder, black pepper, Aleppo pepper, oregano and thyme. Cook for 2 additional minutes. Remove mixture from pan and set aside. Keep pan nearby.
4. Rub both sides of the beef brisket with the 2 teaspoons of kosher salt. In the large skilled, sear both sides of the brisket. Remove from pan and place brisket in bottom of the slow cooker.
5. In a medium bowl or large measuring cup, mix together the ketchup, chili sauce, brown sugar and beef stock to create the marinating sauce. Stir until well blended. Set aside.
6. Top brisket with the caramelized onion mixture, then pour over the marinating sauce.
7. Set slow cooker on Low and cook for 9 to 10 hours. Note: If making a 9 or 10 pound brisket, cook for the full 10 hours.
8. Allow the brisket to cool enough that is safe to be placed in the refrigerator overnight. Cover container. Note: Resting time is key to the enhanced flavorfulness of the brisket.
9. Remove any of the fat that may have solidified.
10. Transfer beef brisket to a cutting board and cut into slices. Set aside.
11. Puree half of the remaining marinating liquid/sauce. Pour pureed sauce in bottom of a large roasting pan or large casserole dish.
12. Using a large spatula, carefully place the brisket slices over the sauce. Pour remaining sauce over the brisket.
13. Cover brisket with a piece of parchment paper, then place lid on top or cover tightly with aluminum foil.
14. In a preheated 250 degree oven, place pan/casserole dish into oven. Reheat brisket until heated through and sauce is bubbling at the edges. Reheating time is approximately 60 minutes. Note: Allowing the brisket to sit out for an hour assists in the reheating process.
15. Transfer brisket slices to a large platter. Spoon over some of the sauce. Pour remaining sauce into a sauce boat and serve alongside the brisket.
Optional: Lightly caramelize another large red onion. Garnish top of the brisket with the caramelized onion slices.
First early morning snowfall in January images.
