"After eating chocolate you feel godlike, as though you can conquer enemies, lead armies, entice lovers."(Pastry chef Emily Luchetti) It would seem quite incomprehensible that one could simultaneously be intoxicated and in control of one's emotions and actions. Yet the allegedly well-researched, documented magical powers of chocolate have been known to do just that. Sometimes things are just worth believing. After weeks of eating fresh strawberries, blueberries, blackberries, and cherries, my sweet tooth wanted something more than fruit. The number of options to feed the chocolate craving border on endless, but after thumbing through Nancy Silverton's Pastries from the La Brea Bakery cookbook I came across a recipe that took me on a trip down memory lane. If given the chance, who does not want the chance to relive a happy, memorable moment, especially if it has the added benefit of involving some form of chocolate?
Whether you call it Honeycomb Toffee, Sponge Toffee, Fairy Food Candy, Sea Foam Candy or Cinder Toffee, there is nothing quite like the caramelized sugar, slightly molasses-like, crispy, melt-away taste and texture of this confection. Cover it in a rich dark, semi-sweet, or milk chocolate and it is transformed into nothing short of a heavenly melt-in-your-mouth bite-sized confection. Sprinkle some sea salt on top and you might be inclined to keep it out of reach of anyone under the age of 21.
If you have ever shuffled over to Buffalo, you are well aware Sponge Candy is claimed as one of its' signature foods. And you thought their only food claim to fame are those fiery hot, spicy wings! Considered by some to be a regional candy, it was on a trip to Buffalo where I learned firsthand why so much fuss had been made around the golden, light, airy, crunchy bites, otherwise known as Honeycomb Toffee. In three whirlwind days we managed to attend the wedding of one of my staff members, do a 17 mile marathon training run, take side trips to Niagara Falls and Niagara on the Lake (loved the Canadian side of the falls) and have our first ever tastes of Beef on Weck, Anderson's Frozen Custard, and Chocolate Covered Honeycomb Toffee. Had taking photos of food been in vogue all of those years ago, it would be hard to say whether I would have taken more food or more Niagara falls photos.
Normally one would not make Honeycomb Toffee on a hot, humid summer day, but the humidity had dropped, providing one of those must-take opportunities to make some. Humidity and honeycomb toffee are not friends.The honeycomb-like texture of the candy is achieved when baking soda is added to a mixture made of granulated sugar, corn syrup and water and cooked until reaching 300 degrees (F), the hard crack stage, on a candy thermometer. Note: When the baking soda is whisked in to the coked sugar mixture, it becomes foamy and dramatically increases in volume.
Working quickly after the baking soda is incorporated into the sugar mixture, pour onto a Silpat or baking sheet lined with parchment paper. (Note: The silicone non-stick liner not only aids in the honeycomb setting up, but makes removal very easy.) If the honeycomb remains slightly puffed up and has a shiny surface after its' poured and set for twenty minutes, you more than likely have achieved success.
It twenty (20) minutes, the Honeycomb is ready to be broken up into pieces or cut with a serrated knife.
Once the Honeycomb has cooled and broken into pieces it needs to be immediately placed in a tightly sealed container or dipped in chocolate to prevent the candy from absorbing any moisture in the air and turning into a softened, sticky mess. In other words, once you start making the Honeycomb you need to finish it. But before dipping the pieces of Honeycomb into the melted chocolate, taste it. If for some reason the honeycomb is too dark, dense or hard it is best to make another batch.
Taking this chocolatey, airy-crunchy, melt in your mouth confection to another level of additive, deliciousness was lightly sprinkling with a flaky, French sea salt.
Deciding whether to dip the Honeycomb Toffee in dark, semi-sweet, or milk chocolate has everything to do with personal preference. At the moment I am on a dark chocolate kick.
The odd-sized shapes to the Honeycomb Toffee may be a bit deceiving, especially for those who believe any chocolates and/or candies worth the calories must be perfectly shaped. Although randomly shaped pieces of Honeycomb Toffee seem to have their own kind of artisanal quality to them.
The Honeycomb Toffee, Sea Salted and Dark Chocolate Dipped could last for weeks stored in an airtight container, but probably won't, particularly if you make the location of the container known to anyone having a sweet tooth in your household. Admit it, you have hiding places and not just for those bags from your favorite stores.
Honeycomb Toffee, Sea Salted and Dark Chocolate Dipped aka Sponge Candy (inspired by a Nancy Silverton recipe in her cookbook Pastries from the La Brea Bakery)
Ingredients
1/4 cup water
1 1/2 cups granulated sugar
1/4 cup light corn syrup
1 Tablespoon baking soda, sifted
1 pound dark, semi-sweet or milk chocolate, melted
Flaky French sea salt
Directions
1. Line a baking sheet with a silpat or parchment paper. Set aside.
2. Measure and sift baking soda. Set aside.
3. In a heavy-duty, medium sized saucepan, stir together the water, sugar and corn syrup until combined.
4. Over high heat bring the mixture to a bowl without stirring. Continue to cook until it reaches 300 degrees (F) on a candy thermometer. Immediately remove from heat. Note: The mixture will have a very pale straw-like color.
5. Working quickly, add the baking soda and whisk for a few seconds until the baking soda is incorporated. The mixture will bubble up and become foamy.
6. Immediately pour over prepared baking pan allowing it spread out on its' own. Do not spread with any utensil.
7. Allow to hard and cool completely (approximately 20 minutes).
8. Remove honeycomb from silpat and transfer to a cutting board. Using the tip of a sharp knife break the honeycomb into uneven chunks.
9. Dip pieces of the honeycomb into the melted chocolate and set on a parchment paper lined cutting board. Sprinkle lightly with sea salt while chocolate is still 'wet'. Allow chocolate to completely harden before transferring honeycomb to an airtight container in a cool place or in the refrigerator.
Note: If not dipping the honeycomb pieces in chocolate, transfer to an airtight container. Undipped toffee will soften in the refrigerator.
The sun setting in Ludington, Michigan.
The 'Badger' ferry leaving Ludington (MI) and returning to Manitowoc (WI).
