Monday, November 23, 2015

Baked Ricotta with Blistered Tomatoes


My most favorite of all holidays is just days away. As Thanksgiving approaches the food-asphere is stuffed with simple, complicated, traditional, and trendy recipes; sage advice from cooks everywhere; reminders of the rules for entertaining etiquette; a myriad of table setting ideas; and, of course, let's not forget the wine pairing recommendations. Makes one wonder how the Pilgrims ever managed to get that mythical, yet legendary meal on the table (Spoiler alert: It isn't what we were taught.) Unless one thrives under pressure (at least one for certain, but probably all of my former administrative assistants can tell you what it feels like to work with someone possessing such a quality), by now you have probably made 98% of your Thanksgiving dinner menu decisions (those of us who have second guessing tendencies always needs to leave some room for a last minute change or addition). For some of us, this meal means making multiple trips to grocery stores and food emporiums to get everything needed for that good as or hopefully even better than the dinner made last year. Yet, in spite of all of the time, planning, endurance, and love going into the making of this meal, the food is merely the backdrop for this holiday.


So I am not going to mess with your Thanksgiving dinner plans with this blog post. I am not going to tempt you to switch out your cranberry sauce for this Spiced Cranberry and Dried Fruit Chutney, or persuade you to replace your favorite creamed spinach recipe with this Boursin Spinach Gratin, or have you consider substituting your pumpkin pie recipe for this Brûléed Pumpkin Pie with Caramel Swirl, or even suggest you add a Potato Leek Gratin to your holiday table. No, I am not. Instead, I am going to focus all of my energies on sharing a recipe for an appetizer you are going to need for all of your impromptu or planned gatherings in the weeks and months ahead. Yes, you really, really need this Baked Ricotta with Blistered Tomatoes recipe in your life.


Nothing takes the chill off of a cold night better than a warm appetizer and glass of wine. Well, okay, maybe there are a few other things.


The savoriness of the ricotta, goat cheese and herbs and the sweetness of blistered, caramelized baby heirloom (or cherry) tomatoes become the perfect bite when spread on a crostini baguette.


This absolute deliciousness begins with whole milk ricotta (don't even think of making a 'lighter' substitution here), chèvre (or goat cheese), fresh thyme, finely minced garlic, sea salt, freshly cracked black pepper and an egg.

Thyme was my herb of choice but you could also use fresh marjoram. In the summer or in the warmer parts of the country, you could substitute freshly sliced basil for the thyme. While some will say fresh herbs are more flavorful than dried, there are some herbs you can use in either fresh or dried form without sacrificing all of the flavor. Thyme and marjoram are two of them, however, basil is a fresh only herb. In general, follow a 1:3 dried to fresh to dried ratio if making this substitution (1 teaspoon of dried to 3 teaspoons of fresh). Side note: 1 Tablespoon equals 3 teaspoons.



If you are not using your own homemade ricotta, use a high quality whole milk ricotta (my personal favorite is made by BelGioioso). The higher quality the ricotta, the less the liquid there will be when allowed to drain for thirty minutes before mixing with the other ingredients.

The drained ricotta, chèvre (or goat cheese), and egg are mixed until creamy in the bowl of a standing mixer fitted with a paddle attachment. After blending in the minced garlic, chopped thyme, sea salt and black pepper, the mixture is ready to be spooned into a dish generously brushed with olive oil. Take a lesson for me and choose a baking dish allowing you to easily invert the baked ricotta onto a platter.


At this point you can cover your baking dish and place in the refrigerator until you are ready to put into a preheated 375 degree (F) oven. It takes only 40 minutes for the cheese to puff up and very lightly brown.


Baby heirloom and cherry tomatoes are always in season. Extra-virgin olive oil, light brown sugar, fresh thyme, and dry vermouth are all you need to caramelize these tomatoes. But before sharing just how easy it is to make these blistered tomatoes, let's talk about the vermouth, the dry vermouth. Something we can thank 18th century Northern Italians for creating. Borrowing from Cook's Illustrated description, 'the base of a dry vermouth is white wine, presumably not of particularly high quality; fortified with neutral grape spirits which slightly hike up the alcohol level; and, 'aromatized' with 'botanicals' such as herbs, spices, and fruits.' Relatively inexpensive due to its' low alcohol content, dry vermouth is also called extra-dry vermouth. As a side note, if you ever see a recipe simply calling for vermouth and recommending white wine as a substitute, they are really recommending the use of dry vermouth. Save the sweet stuff red or pink stuff for the Manhattan, Negroni, and Rob Roy.


In a heavy skillet, heat a tablespoon of extra-virgin olive oil before adding the baby heirloom or cherry tomatoes. Cook, swirling often, over medium heat until the tomatoes begin to blister. or slightly split. When adding the dry vermouth, remove the pan from the heat (remember there is alcohol in it). After stirring the dry vermouth into the tomatoes, return to the heat and add the light brown sugar, sea salt, and fresh thyme. Immediately lower the heat and continue to cook until the juices from the tomatoes, the dry vermouth, and the brown sugar become slightly syrupy. Some of your tomatoes may have fallen completely apart, however, if all of them do, then you 'blistered' them too much before adding in the other ingredients.

The tomatoes can be made midway through the ricotta baking process. If they are done before the ricotta has baked and allowed to rest slightly, remove them from heat and gently reheat before getting ready to serve.


Slice up a fresh baguette into 1/2 inch slices or brush your baguette slices with some extra-virgin olive, season with salt and pepper, and bake in a 350 degree (F) oven for 10-15 minutes (or until they are lightly golden brown). While the baked ricotta is resting, you can throw a sheet pan of prepared baguette slices into the oven.

Baking time on the ricotta, goat cheese, and herb mixture is approximately 40 minutes (it will puff up slightly and have some light brown coloring along the edges and on top). After removing from the oven, allow it to rest for approximately ten (10) minutes before inverting onto your serving platter (again trust me when I say choose a baking dish amenable to inverting).


Top the baked ricotta with your blistered tomatoes and surround with your bread of choice. Garnishing with thyme is optional. While meant to be served warm, this Baked Ricotta with Blistered Tomatoes is still delicious and equally addictive as it comes to room temperature.


My list of all of the things I am thankful for this year continues to grow daily. Unexpected kindnesses, the support and encouragement of family and friends, new friendships, enduring friendships that continue to strengthen over time, and my new appreciation for being healthy are just some of them. And in the words of Thornton Wilder 'We can only be said to be alive in those moments when our hearts are conscious of our treasures.' It is with a very grateful heart that I wish all of you a most happy and filled with blessings Thanksgiving.

Recipe
Baked Ricotta with Blistered Tomatoes (inspired by the Runaway Spoon's recipe for Baked Ricotta and Goat Cheese with Candied Tomatoes)
Serves 6-8 as an appetizer

Ingredients
Baked Cheese
15 ounces whole milk ricotta (recommend BelGioioso whole milk ricotta) or use homemade ricotta
4 ounces chevre or goat cheese, room temperature
1 large egg, room temperature
2 Tablespoons fresh thyme (or marjoram or basil)
2-3 cloves of garlic, finely minced
Generous grinding of black pepper
Generous sprinkling of sea salt (or kosher salt)
Extra-virgin olive oil for preparing baking dish

Blistered Tomatoes
1 Tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil
12-14 ounces baby heirloom tomatoes or cherry tomatoes (mixed colors if possible)
1/4 cup dry or extra dry vermouth
1/4 cup light brown sugar
3 sprigs of thyme
sea salt

Directions
Baked Cheese
1. Place the ricotta in a colander lined with cheese cloth. Allow to drain for at least 30 minutes, pressing down to extract the liquid.
2. Preheat oven to 375 degrees (F). Brush inside of a 2 cup baking dish with olive oil.
3. In a stand mixer fitted with a paddle attachment, beat the drained ricotta, goat cheese, and egg until smooth. Beat in herbs, pepper and salt. Taste for seasonings. Alternately, place all of the ingredients in the bowl of a food processor and process until smooth and creamy (this is my preferred method).
4. Spoon mixture into prepared baking dish. Bake for 40 minutes or until lightly browned and puffed in the center.
5. Allow the cheese to cool for at least 10 minutes. Invert on serving platter.
Note: The baked cheese mixture can be prepared several hours in advance before baking. Remove from refrigerator at least 30 minutes before baking.

Blistered Tomatoes
1. While the cheese is baking, heat the extra-virgin olive oil in a large skillet over medium heat. 
2. Add tomatoes, stirring frequently until the skins of the tomatoes begin to split.
3. Briefly remove from heat, add vermouth, then return to heat. 
4. Add brown sugar and herbs, stirring until sugar has melted.
5. Add a generous pinch of sea salt.
6. Lower heat and cook gently until liquid is reduced to a syrupy coating. Note: Some of the tomatoes will begin to fall apart, but not to worry.

Assembly
1. Spoon the blistered tomatoes over the baked ricotta.
2. Serve with crostini or a sliced baguette.


First snowfall at Morton Arboretum in Lisle, Illinois.