Monday, October 2, 2017

Chocolate Cake with Ganache Icing


Months ago I had read Yotam Ottolenghi and Helen Goh were collaboratively working on a new cookbook. One completely devoted to those confections directly appealing to our sweet tooth. Aptly named "Sweet", I learned this destined to be classic cookbook would be released first in Europe (ultimately in September) and in the states (subsequently in October). Now if I lived somewhere in Europe I would have been thrilled to learn I would be amongst one of the 'firsts' to get my hands on this cookbook. But I live here in the states so my reaction was a bit different. Instead of experiencing some 'thrill', I shamelessly will admit I was a bit, well more than just a bit, envious of those living across the ocean, love to bake fellow foodies. As someone who has been known to put the word 'wait' into the same four letter word category we were once told were bad words, I began to wonder if there was a way I wouldn't have to. Wait, that is. I had once boldly called a book publisher asking for an early release of a book, but I had a really good reason for making a request they kindly granted. But calling the book publisher for an early US release of this cookbook would have been for selfish rather than selfless reasons. 

And then I wondered if I should ask one of my friends, who just happened to be going back to visit her family in County Mayo, if she might have any time to stop in a bookstore to pick up this book up for me. And then lug it back without incurring an over the weight limit luggage expense. Because with my luck, it would end up being one of the 'for no good reason' most expensive cookbooks I had ever purchased. If you have already guessed I asked for this favor, you would be right. However, little did I know at the time this favor would end up involving her sister making numerous trips to the bookstore. Not only to check on the cookbook's arrival date but in having it shipped to me. My obsession with getting a copy of "Sweet" before most everyone here in the states got theirs resulted in me being indebted to not just one, but two people. I don't yet know how I shall repay them, although I am fairly certain I will think of a worthy repayment for their kindness. Not just for gifting the cookbook to me, but for giving me the priceless 'thrill' experience. 


There will many cookbook reviewers, food bloggers, and bakers around the world weighing in and sharing their opinion on "Sweet". Other than telling everyone who loves to bake they should seriously consider buying this cookbook, I will let others do the reviewing. I would much rather tell you about this Chocolate Cake with Ganache Icing. One I finished with a bit of sea salt.


This isn't the first chocolate cake recipe I have shared on the blog. And maybe it won't be my last. But this one isn't anything like any of the others I have swooned over. If I told you it tasted more like a cake you would find in almost any bakery in Europe rather than some here in the states, that might not be enough to entice you to make it. Or even adequately describe it. If I told you it was a dense, chocolatey, perfect crumbed cake topped with a rich ganache lightly sea salted icing any chocolate cake lover would be over the moon, thrilled to eat, you might swayed to make it as some of those descriptors might resonate with you. But if I told you this swoon worthy, chocolate lover's dream cake was relatively easy to make, I wouldn't be surprised if it immediately went to the top of your 'must bake' list.


The bittersweet (70% cocoa) and Dutch processed cocoa along with the espresso granules (dissolved in boiling water) used in the cake batter are what gives this cake its' deep, rich chocolate flavor. Instead of baking powder or baking soda, this cake recipe uses self-rising flour. And while some adaptations of this chocolate cake recipe list granulated sugar as one of the ingredients, I used the recommended caster (superfine) sugar.  And because I had the European version of the cookbook, I measured all of my ingredients using either a scale or measuring cup with millileter markings. In other words, I tried to be 'ingredient' true to the original recipe as possible. Note: The recipe below provides both US and metric amounts.


In the original recipe, the butter, chocolate and hot coffee are combined in a bowl and stirred until the chocolate and butter melt completely. Instead, I placed those three ingredients in a bowl set over a pan over simmering water and stirred until everything melted. Before removing the bowl from the simmering water, I added the caster sugar and whisked until it melted. Because the mixture was 'warm' I was concerned adding the eggs to the chocolate mixture would result in 'cooked, curdled' eggs. To ensure this didn't happen, I first tempered the eggs by mixing them with a small amount (about 1/4 cup) of the chocolate mixture before adding them in. All of these adaptations worked.


After adding and whisking in the sifted dry ingredients, the batter is poured into a prepared (lightly buttered, parchment paper lined) 9" (23 cm) round cake or springform pan. This cake batter will seem unusually thin, but the recipe assures us not to worry about this consistency as this is how it should be. So don't worry.

The conversion of Celcius to Fahrenheit is a bit messy. 170 degrees (C) actually converts to 338 degrees (F). Most American gas ovens don't have this finite level of fahrenheit designation so there is a tendency to either round up or round down Celcius listed temperatures. Instead, I tried to gauge my oven setting slightly below the 350 degree (F) mark to get as close to what I thought might be the 338 degrees (F) temperature as possible. My baking time was just a couple of minutes longer than the recommended 60 minutes. But if you round up to 350 degrees (F), begin checking your cake around the 50 minute mark so you don't over bake it.

Unlike most other baked cakes, this one forms a top crust and has a cracked surface. Again, Ottolenghi and Goh tell us not to worry as this is how it should be.

While the cake bakes, begin making the chocolate ganache. It can be made in either a food processor or a bowl. I used both the food processor and the bowl. When all of the ingredients are mixed together, the ganache is very pourable thin. If you desire a cake to have a thin coating of chocolate, would recommend allowing the ganache to rest 10-15 minutes (just to slightly increase its viscosity) before pouring all over the cake. But if want the top of your cake to be slathered in a thick layer of ganache as I did, allow it rest for 1 1/2 to 2 hours. Note: Regardless if you want to a thin or thick layer of ganache on your cake, allow the cake to cool completely before icing.


To keep the ganache from forming a film or drying out, cover with plastic wrap while resting. Ensuring the plastic wrap actually touches the top of the ganache.

This may be one of the most luxurious ganaches I have ever made. 


After icing the cake, I decided to sprinkle flakes of sea salt around the edge of cake. You can be a ganache purist and leave it off (although it was a great add) or you can top your cake with sprinkles or marzipan shapes. Be as simple or as fancy as your heart desires.


After serving the first piece of Chocolate Cake with Ganache Icing, I decided to serve the second piece with some vanilla ice cream. Lightly sweetened whipped cream or the recommended Espresso Cinnamon Mascarpone Cream would be great accompaniments to this cake.


If there was ever a cake to express your love or gratitude, this Chocolate Cake with Ganache Icing would be it. If there was ever a cake to make for anyone who has a serious affinity for a rich chocolate cake, this Chocolate Cake with Ganache Icing would seriously exceed their chocolate cake loving dreams. And if I ever get the chance to cook and/or bake with the woman who sent me the highly coveted cookbook containing the recipe for this chocolate cake, I will have it waiting for her when she arrives in my kitchen as a small repayment for her kindness.

Recipe
Chocolate Cake with Ganache Icing (a very slight adaptation to the Take-home Chocolate Cake recipe from the cookbook 'Sweet' written by Yotam Ottolenghi and Helen Goh)
Serves 10-12

Ingredients
Cake
1 cup plus 1 1/2 Tablespoons (250 g) unsalted butter, room temperature, cut into 3/4 inch pieces (recommend a European or European style butter)
7 ounces (200 g) dark chocolate (70% cocoa) chopped into 3/4 inch pieces
1 1/2 teaspoons instant espresso or instant coffee granules
1 1/2 cups (350 ml) boiling water
1 1/4 cups (250 g) caster or superfine sugar
2 large eggs
2 teaspoons high quality vanilla 
1 3/4 cups plus 2 Tablespoons (240 g) self-rising flour
1/3 cup (30 g) Dutch processed cocoa powder
1/4 teaspoon kosher salt

Ganache
7 ounces (200 g) dark chocolate (70% cocoa) chopped into 3/4 inch pieces
3/4 cup (180 ml) heavy whipping cream
1 Tablespoon of golden syrup or corn syrup
1 Tablespoon unsalted butter, room temperature
Optional: Flaky sea salt for sprinkling on top of cake

Espresso Cinnamon Mascarpone Cream
1 1/2 cups plus 1 Tablespoon (375 ml) heavy whipping cream
3/4 cup (190 g) mascarpone
2 1/2 teaspoons instant espresso granules
3/4 teaspoon ground cinnamon
2 1/2 Tablespoons confectionary sugar
Scraped seeds of 1/2 vanilla bean or 1 1/2 teaspoons vanilla

Directions
Cake
1. Preheat oven to 338 degrees (F) or 170 degrees (C). Line a 9 inch cake pan or springform pan with parchment paper. Lightly butter top of paper and sides of pan.
2. Stir together the boiling water and espresso or coffee granules until completely dissolved.
3. Sift together the flour, cocoa powder and kosher salt. Set aside.
4. Place butter, chocolate and hot coffee in a large heatproof bowl set over a pan of steaming water. Stir until everything is melted, combined and smooth.
5. Whisk in sugar and stir until dissolved.
6. Remove bowl from pan and pour into a larger bowl.
7. In a small bowl whisk together the eggs. Add a small amount of the chocolate mixture to combine (to ensure eggs do not cook). Add egg mixture and vanilla to chocolate mixture, whisk until completely blended. 
8. Whisk the sifted dry ingredients into the chocolate mixture until fully incorporated. Note: Batter will very very liquidy, but this is the consistency it should have.
9. Pour mixture into prepared cake pan. Bake for approximately 60 - 65 minutes or until a skewer inserted into the center of the cake comes out clean or with just a few dry crumbs attached. Note: The top of the cake will form a crust and will be cracked. Again, not to worry as this is how it should look when baked.
10. Allow the cake to cool in the pan for at least 20 minutes before removing. Allow to cool completely before icing with the chocolate ganache.
11. Ice cake using the ganache. Optional: Lightly sprinkle the iced cake with flaky sea salt.
12. Serve with Espresso Cinnamon Mascarpone Cream (see below), lightly sweetened whipped cream or a high quality vanilla ice cream.

Ganache
1. Place pieces of chocolate in a small food processor. Pulse until finely chopped.
2. Heat cream and golden syrup (or corn syrup) in a small pan set over medium-high heat. As soon as bubbles begin to appear, remove from the heat. Slowly pour into the food processor. Process until the chocolate is melted.
3. Transfer mixture to a medium size bowl. Add butter and whisk until the mixture is shiny and smooth.
4. Cover the ganache with plastic wrap, with plastic wrap touching the entire surface of the ganache. Set aside until it has the consistency desired. For a thicker ganache, allow to set at room temperature for 1 1/2 to 2 hours. Note: If you want a thin layer of ganache over the cake, pour over the entire cake while the mixture is still liquidy and before it begins to set up.

Espresso Cinnamon Mascarpone Cream
1. Place all ingredients in the bowl of a standing mixer fitted with a whisk attachment. Beat for several minutes or until soft peaks form.

Notes: (1) The original recipe did not call for setting the bowl of butter, chocolate and hot coffee in a bowl over a pan of simmering water. But rather stirring the mixture in a bowl until all of the chocolate and butter is melted. Can use either method to melt the butter and chocolate. (2) If making the cake in smaller pans (3 inch, 4 inch, or 6 inch sizes), will need to adjust baking time. (3) I used the Ghiradelli 70% bittersweet chocolate for the cake and ganache. (4) As this is a very dense, chocolatey cake, would recommend serving with side of the Espresso Cinnamon Mascarpone Cream (see below), lightly sweetened whipped cream or a high quality vanilla ice cream.


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