Wednesday, March 24, 2021

Irish Brown Bread aka Kathleen's Irish Brown Bread


A recent comment about my Irish Soda Bread post got me thinking about what makes a recipe traditional. If you do a search for recipes containing the word 'traditional' in them, the number of variations for a single recipe are mindboggling. As an example, what a traditional Irish Soda Bread or a traditional lasagna is to one person isn't necessarily traditional to another. If we think of a traditional food or dish as one passed on through generations, then the traditional version of any recipe might heavily depend on the family or place you grew up in. But then what happens when those 'traditional' recipes get nuanced over time based on personal taste or the availability/quality of ingredients? Do they become the 'new traditional' or our own personal 'traditional'? Regardless of how you answer those questions, maybe believing the version you are making is the most delicious one is what truly matters most. 


So what do you do when you want to make a 'traditional' food but it's one you didn't grow up eating or making? You can go on the hunt for one by scouring the internet and/or books/magazines and try to decide which one to make or modify, you can ask a good friend (specifically a friend coming from a family making it for generations), or you can do both and then decide. Spoiler alert: I made the recipe given to me by a very good friend.


Sheila was first a neighbor, then a good friend when I lived in my rented farmhouse in Little Compton, Rhode Island. I can't even to begin to count on two hands the number of kindnesses she has extended to me over the years. After talking on the phone with her last week I came away with her mother Kathleen's recipe for Irish Brown Bread. One beloved by everyone in Sheila's family. Before moving to the states years ago, Sheila grew up in County Clare. It's the place where her mother still resides. So there were a myriad of reasons why I decided to make this Irish Brown Bread recipe. It was one having a bit of tradition to it; it came from Ireland; and, last but not least, Sheila happens to be a really, really good cook. Yet, in spite of all of those compelling reasons, I still felt the need to go down the Irish Brown Bread recipe rabbit hole. 


The ingredients for this Irish Brown Bread recipe were unlike any others I had found. First, it was made using only all-purpose flour, not whole wheat flour or a combination of all-purpose and whole wheat flour. Second, wheat bran, yes wheat bran, was a significant ingredient. Wheat bran happens to be rich in fiber and protein, has very little fat, and adds a slight nutty flavor to baked goods. And lastly, there were no sweeteners in this brown bread recipe. No granulated sugar, no brown sugar, no molasses. All of which had me wondering how this dense bread might taste. But I wouldn't know if I didn't make it.


Kathleen's Irish Brown Bread is traditionally shaped in an oval, not as a round loaf. Like most Irish Brown Breads it has a deep cross cut into it as well as deep cuts into each of the quarters. And before going into the preheated 450 degree (F) oven, the loaf of bread is ever so lightly dusted with flour.


Rather than bake the bread in a pan lightly dusted with flour, I opted to bake it in a cast iron pan lined with parchment paper. The bread bakes in 35-40 minutes, although my loaf was done right at the 35 minute mark.


The most difficult part of making this recipe (other than having to search for Wheat Bran) was waiting for it cool down just long enough for it to be cut into thick slices.

If Irish Soda Bread is on the sweet side with a scone like taste, then the denser in texture Irish Brown Bread is on the savory side with a deep nutty flavor. Both are delicious slathered with room temperature Irish butter. However, the Irish Brown Bread is equally delicious topped with both butter and jam, toasted and topped with some soft scrambled eggs and smoked salmon, and or topped with a slice of fresh mozzarella sprinkled with sea salt. 

Irish Brown Bread is a simple, hearty, rustic bread. With fat coming only from the buttermilk along with it being made with wheat bran, it's a little on the bread healthier side. But most importantly, it also happens to be satisfyingly delicious. This treasured recipe is one that will be repeated around here.

Had I never moved to Rhode Island for a few years and had I never became friends with Sheila, I would have never been able to make Kathleen Arkins from County Clare Irish Brown Bread. Seems things always happen for a reason.

Recipe
Irish Brown Bread aka Kathleen's Irish Brown Bread
Makes one loaf

Ingredients
3 cups (390g) all-purpose flour (recommend Gold Medal)
2 cups (120g) wheat bran (recommend Bob's Red Mill)
2 teaspoons baking soda
1 teaspoon Kosher salt
2 cups well-shaken buttermilk

Serving options: Room temperature Irish butter, your favorite preserves or jam, scrambled eggs/smoked salmon, slice of fresh mozzarella sprinkled with flaky sea salt

Directions
1. Preheat oven to 450 degrees (F).  Line a cast iron baking pan with parchment paper.
2. In a large bowl combine the dry ingredients. 
3. Make a well in the center and pour in the buttermilk.
4. Using your hands or a dough whisk bring the dough together. Once the dough begins to form, use your hands to shape it into a round or an oval loaf. Be careful to not overwork the dough.
5. Press down so the height of dough is somewhere between 2" and 3".
6. Cut a deep cross over the top of the dough. Make a deep slit into each quarter.
7. Place dough on parchment paper.
8. Place pan in oven and bake for 35-40 minutes or until loaf sounds hollow when tapped on the bottom (my baking time was 35 minutes).
9. Remove the bread from the oven and transfer to a cooling rack.
10. Let bread rest for at least 10-15 minutes before slicing.
11. Keep any leftover bread at room temperature. Wrap in plastic wrap or keep in a sealed container.

Notes: (1) If you would like your Irish Brown Bread to have a tad amount of sweetness to it, consider adding 2-3 Tablespoons of granulated sugar, 2 Tablespoons of light brown sugar, or 2 Tablespoons of molasses.