Monday, June 9, 2025

Deep Dish Rhubarb Pie

After reading Geraldine Brooks book "Memorial Days", I decided taking a trip to one of my happy places was what my grief fatigued self needed. Being near the ocean and in a beautiful familiar setting was the best way I knew how to give myself a chance to just breathe, to put all of the things I had been worrying about on a temporary pause. While this trip got off to a shaky start (a missed connecting flight and lost luggage) I arrived at my friend Sheila's cottage shortly before midnight to find a bouquet of fresh flowers, a refrigerator filled with my favorite foods, fresh eggs on the counter, two bottles of wine, and a piece of homemade rhubarb pie. I never felt so loved. As much as I wanted to immediately dive into the pie, I showed some restraint. I only waited a day. This wasn't the first piece of rhubarb pie from Sheila. Somehow I had forgotten Sheila had first given me her Rhubarb Pie recipe more than nine years ago. Which is why I asked her for it (again). It wasn't until I got home that I discovered she had made some changes to her original recipe (or the recipe I actually shared on the blog way back in 2016). The most significant changes were in the amounts of rhubarb and nutmeg.


When she told me she used a tablespoon of nutmeg in the pie, I thought I heard her wrong. I must have asked her several times to tell me again how much nutmeg she used. Because while my taste buds detected the flavor of nutmeg, that amount of spice didn't overpower the flavor of the pie. It actually enhanced it. Which could have been due to the fact that the amount of rhubarb in the pie had increased rather considerably. Instead of using six cups of rhubarb, the pie was now made with a very generous eight cups. 

The best way for me to describe how much rhubarb you should use in this pie without having to measure or weigh it is to say it should look piled high in the deep dish pie plate. The second best way is to tell you it takes about 10 large stalks of rhubarb cut up into 1/2 inch pieces to get that generous 8 cups. Sheila's strategy of making sure you have enough rhubarb is to put the cut-up rhubarb in the pie plate before it's lined with the bottom pie crust or mixed with the sugar, eggs, flour, nutmeg and pinch of salt. If it's mounded high above the rim of the pie plate, you have enough rhubarb. It's a rather brilliant strategy.

When I got home to make this pie, I used premade pie crusts (Sheila does too!). I discovered that the pre-rolled pie crusts made by Whole Foods (their 365 brand) are by far the BEST non-homemade pie crusts I have ever tasted. Sold in the frozen food section, these pie crusts are far superior in taste, texture, and size to the Pillsbury refrigerated pie crusts I have been using for years. However, if you are masterful at making your own pie crusts, then that is what you should use. Although those premade pie crusts from Whole Foods are really, really good.

I know rhubarb season is coming to an end soon in most parts of the country. So, if by chance you come across some at your local Farmer's Market or in the grocery store (do not buy pre-cut rhubarb), then make this pie now! And then make it again more than once next year. It's destined to become one of your favorite pies! And I am willing to bet it will make converts out of those who have been rather ambivalent or even dismissive of rhubarb pies. From this point forward I will always think of love when I think of rhubarb pie. Because if love had a flavor it would be this rhubarb pie.


Recipe
Deep Dish Rhubarb Pie

Ingredients
Dough (Recipe for the All-Butter Pie Crust adapted from Yossy Arefi's Sweeter off the Vine: Fruit Desserts for Every Season cookbook)
2 2/3 cups all-purpose flour
1 teaspoon kosher salt
10 Tablespoons unsalted butter
8 Tablespoons ice cold water
1 Tablespoon apple cider vinegar

OR two premade pie crusts! Note:
 In lieu of making a homemade pie crust, recommend using a thawed boxed Whole Foods Pre-Rolled (365 Brand) Pie Crusts (found in the freezer section) or Pillsbury pie crusts found in the refrigerator section of most grocery stores. Highly, highly recommend using the Whole Foods Pie Crusts.

Pie
1 1/2 cups (300g) granulated sugar
3 Tablespoons (27g) all-purpose flour (or could use quick cooking tapioca)
2-3 teaspoons nutmeg (Sheila uses 3 teaspoons, I used a generous 2 teaspoons)
3 large eggs, lightly beaten
8 generous cups (960g) of rhubarb, cut into 1/2 inch pieces (from approximately 10 large stalks of rhubarb)
Pinch of Kosher salt
2 Tablespoons unsalted butter, cubed

Egg wash (One tablespoon of water mixed with the remaining filling adhering to the mixing bowl)
Sparkling Sugar for finishing, optional
Vanilla Ice Cream for serving

Directions

Homemade Dough
1. In a food processor, add flour and salt. Pulse several times to blend.
2. Add butter and process until coarse crumbs form, approximately 10-15 seconds.
3. Mix together ice cold water and apple cider vinegar.
4. With food processor running, slow add water/vinegar mixture in a steady stream through the feed tube. Pulse until the dough holds together. If still too crumbly, add an additional tablespoon of ice water. Dough should not be wet or sticky. Test finished dough by squeezing a small amount of dough together to see if it holds shape.
5. Divide dough in half. Shape into a disk and wrap dough in plastic wrap. Chill for at least 2 hours or overnight.
6. Roll out dough on a lightly floured surface.

Pie
1. Preheat oven to 450 degrees (F).
2. Mix together the eggs, sugar, flour, Kosher salt and nutmeg. Mix in the rhubarb.
3. Line a 9 inch deep dish pie pan with a sheet of dough. Add filling. Top filling with the 2 Tablespoons of butter. 
4. Use remaining dough to make a lattice top for the pie. Using a fork, crimp edge of pie to seal or use your fingers to create a finished edge.

5. Brush pie crust with egg wash. Sprinkle with sparkling sugar (optional). Note: To make the egg wash mix 1 Tablespoon of water with the juices left from the rhubarb mixture. Brush on the egg wash with a pastry brush.
6. Place the pie dish on a sheet pan and bake for 15 minutes at 450 degrees (F).
7. Reduce oven temperature to 350 degrees (F) and continue baking for 60-70 minutes or until juices appear thickened and rhubarb is tender. If crust is getting too browned cover with aluminum foil. Remove from oven. Allow to cool several hours before serving. Note: As pie cools to room temperature, the filling will further thicken.
8. Serve at room temperature with vanilla ice cream. (Leftover Rhubarb Pie can be covered and stored in the refrigerator. Warm cut slices in the microwave before serving or eat chilled.)

Notes: (1) You can find the link to Sheila's (first) Rhubarb Pie recipe here. (2) I let the frozen pie crusts thaw in the refrigerator overnight. (3) Use a ceramic deep pie dish for the best results. Emile Henry and Farmhouse Kitchen both made great pie dishes. (4) One cup of rhubarb weighs 120g.


Warren's Point Beach, Little Compton, RI (May 2025)