Classic Bolognese

 

Some things cannot be rushed. Some things require care and patience. And a Classic Bolognese would be one of those things. A plate of a slowly simmered, rich, deeply flavored Bolognese tossed in pasta may be one of the most satisfying, comforting meals to serve to those you love. The most epic dinner parties or the most memorable Sunday dinners call for a large platter of this Classic Bolognese, a loaf of great bread, a bottle of a great wine, maybe a lovely salad, and maybe a simple affogato for dessert. While this meal itself may appear to be seemingly simple, one bite of the Bolognese and your taste buds will immediately recognize the complexity and layers of flavor in the sauce. It's a far from simple meal.

There are many versions and interpretations of Bologna's famed sauce. And as much as I love Ann Burrell's milk free, very tomato and red wine forward Bolognese (this one) as well as Mario Batali's veal, pork, and pancetta version (this one), a Bolognese sauce heavily based on the one created by Marcella Hazan is hands down the gold standard of ragus. While I wouldn't tell you to abandon your version of a Bolognese, the one your family and friends swoon over, I would tell you this version might have you wishing you discovered it first or maybe even sooner.

Onions, carrots, celery, ground chuck, whole milk, dry white wine, a dash of nutmeg, Kosher salt, black pepper, and imported Italian tomatoes come together to create the most highly nuanced, deeply flavored sauce. There is no garlic, red wine, tomato paste, pork, veal, guanciale, pancetta, or herbs in this sauce. While the absence of those ingredients may have you taking pause, I promise you not at all be mad about it.

Even though the ingredients here matter, the process of making the Bolognese matters even more. According to Marcella Hazan, there are three essential points you must remember when making a successful ragu. To start, the meat should only be sauteed just barely long enough to lose its' raw, red color. Browned meat will lose its delicacy. Second, the meat must be cooked in the milk before the tomatoes are added as this helps to keep the meat creamier and sweeter tasting. And lastly, the sauce must cook at a very low simmer for a very, very, very long time. Minimally for 3 1/2 hours and ideally somewhere closer to 4 1/2 hours (maybe even 5). For the most optimal, richest, deepest flavor, time matters.

The milk and wine are added in separately during the cooking process. And both must evaporate before subsequent ingredients are added in order to achieve the Bolognese's signature flavor. The slower cooking process enabling the milk to reduce and evaporate concentrates the flavors of the milk, meat and other ingredients and prevents curdling, thereby creating a deeper more complex sauce. Allowing the alcohol in the wine to evaporate not only concentrates its rich flavors, but it also adds depth to sauce. The result is a more complex, well-rounded sauce rather than one having a more dominant, overpowering alcohol taste. 

The long simmering time for the Bolognese is essential to tenderizing the meat as well as creating its signature rich, complex, almost velvety like texture. Additionally, it completely eliminates the possibility of a watery sauce. And there may be nothing worse than a watery Bolognese.

The union of a great pasta and the Bolognese is a marriage made in heaven. There are any number of great pasta options to pair with the ragu. From Tagliatelle, to Pappardelle, to Fettuccine, to Rigatoni, to Penne, to Ziti, to Bucatini, to the Tubular Pasta I used here. The only pasta I would recommend not using is spaghetti as the chunky meat sauce doesn't cling well to the slippery, thin pasta.

My new taste tester gave this Classic Bolognese a rating of 9.1. Which wasn't too far off from my rating of a perfect 10. Because you need nothing less than perfection (or as close to perfection as possible) in your life, this Classic Bolognese is destined to be your (newest) favorite, the one you make when you want to impress your family/friends, and the one bringing you much needed comfort. 

Recipe

Classic Bolognese

Makes at least 6-7 cups of sauce

Ingredients

1 Tablespoon olive oil

3 Tablespoons butter, plus 1 Tablespoon for finishing

1 cup diced yellow onion

1 cup diced celery

1 cup diced carrot

1 3/4-pounds ground chuck (80/20)

1 teaspoon Kosher salt, plus more to taste

1/2 teaspoon black pepper

2 cups whole milk

5-7 grates of a nutmeg

2 cups dry white wine (i.e., Pinot Gris, Pinot Grigio)
2 - 28 ounce cans imported plum tomatoes, chopped with all their juices (e.g., San Marzano)

1 to 1 1/4 pounds of pasta

Freshly grated Parmigiano Reggiano

Directions

1. In a large cast iron casserole pot, add in the olive oil and butter. When the butter has melted, add in the diced onion. Sauté over medium heat until slightly translucent (about 2-3 minutes).

2. Add in the celery and carrot and cook gently for 2-3 minutes.

3. Add in the ground beef, crumbling it the pot with a fork. Add in 1 teaspoon salt and 1/2 teaspoon black pepper and cook only until the meat has lost its raw, red color (do not overcook or brown).

4. Add in the milk, turn the heat to medium high and cook, stirring occasionally, until the milk has evaporated (this will take 10-15 minutes).

5. Add in the grates of nutmeg.

6. Add in the dry white wine. On medium high heat cook until the wine has evaporated. Stir occasionally (this will take 10-15 minutes).

7. Add in the tomatoes and juice and stir completely. When the tomatoes have started to bubble, turn the heat down to a simmer. Cook, uncovered for 3 1/2 to 4 hours, stirring occasionally.

8. Taste for salt and stir in one tablespoon of butter.

9. Cook your pasta.

10. Pour some of the Bolognese on the bottom of a platter.  Top with the cooked pasta. Pour some of the remaining sauce over and toss. When the pasta is lightly coated. Top with the remaining sauce and toss again, just lightly. Serve with some freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano. Important Note: You will not use all of this Bolognese if using 1 or 1 1/4 pounds of pasta. You will enough left over to freeze for reheating on a cold, chilly day. You only need 2 1/2 to 3 cups of sauce to toss with the pasta. You can always have another cup on the side for those who want an even heavier serving.

Notes: (1) This recipe highly based on Marcella Hazan's Meat Sauce Bolognese Style from her cookbook "The Classic Italian Cookbook". The amounts of the vegetables were increased and the order in which the milk and wine were added were the only two changes made to her recipe. (2) The Bolognese can be made a day ahead. Keep covered and chilled in the refrigerator. Reheat slowly over low heat when ready to serve. (3) Sauce can be frozen in freezer proof containers or plastic freezer bags for up to 3 to 4 months, but three months would be the optimal time limit.