A Nice "Vegetarian" Lasagna

A couple of weeks ago, one of my friends said 'wouldn't it be fun to make homemade pasta together?'. I think I may have responded with a non-committal 'sure'. It had been so long since I had made homemade pasta, I vaguely remembered where I last saw my Atlas pasta maker. As it turned out it was gathering dust sitting on a shelf in the garage (I know, why would anyone store a pasta maker in the garage?). And then last week I read about a new cookbook, "Small Victories: Recipes, Advice & Hundreds of Ideas for Home-Cooking Triumphs", written by Julia Turshen. Intrigued by the comments made by some of her peers, I drove over to Barnes and Noble to check it out. After spending more than a half hour going through the book, I needed to buy it. Not only because it was one of the most inspiring cookbooks to come out since Tasting Rome and Florentine, but it was covered in my fingerprints and some of my drool (proverbially speaking of course). So many of her recipes leaped from the pages screaming 'make me first'. With the idea of making homemade pasta still resonating somewhere in my subconscious along with needing to find a great vegetarian 'pasta' recipe to make for an upcoming dinner party, her recipe for 'A Nice Lasagna' won out. And quite the winner it turned out to be. 

Any trepidation I had about trying my hand (again) at making homemade pasta dissipated as I read through the recipe. For some unexplainable reason it seemed much simpler than I had remembered. And as it turned out, it was. Okay, before you decide not to make this recipe (and God forbid stop reading this post) because (1) you don't have a pasta maker, (2) you have a pasta maker and have no idea where it is, (3) you tried making pasta before and well it wasn't worth all the effort, or (4) you have no interest in making homemade pasta, let me just say a couple of things about this recipe.

First, while the homemade pasta makes this dish feel as if it came out of a five star Italian restaurant, you can still make it using store bought fresh pasta (obstacle one removed). Second, the tomato sauce is unlike anything you have ever tasted. And lastly, it can be made early in the day or a day ahead, covered and refrigerated. Which means all you need to do is open the wine, make a salad, cut some bread, and put it in the oven to bake. After tasting this lasagna, it is quite possible you will never order lasagna in a restaurant again, either here in the states or in Italy. Yes, I am being completely serious.

So let's first talk about the tomato sauce. A sauce with only five ingredients: whole plum canned tomatoes, sliced garlic cloves, kosher salt, extra-virgin olive oil, and creme fraiche. Yes, creme fraiche. It adds a creaminess and richness to the sauce unlike any other 'tomato sauce' ingredient. And I would venture to bet you will never make a lasagna with ricotta cheese again. 

The original recipe called for four cloves of garlic. I used five because I love the flavor garlic imparts to a sauce. Five cloves was not at all overpowering. A great quality extra-virgin olive oil imparts incredible flavor to a tomato sauce. A bottle of the good stuff is well worth the money. 

In a large, heavy saucepan the garlic is first sautéed in the extra-virgin oil (this takes about a minute as long as you get your oil hot before adding the garlic). The whole canned plum tomatoes (that you first break up with your hands) and a teaspoon of salt go in next. After bringing the sauce to a boil, it needs to simmer for 30 to 45 minutes. In the spirit of 'more than be better', I simmered my sauce for 45 minutes before removing from heat and whisking in the creme fraiche. While the sauce cools to room temperature, you can begin making the homemade pasta.

The pasta is made with only three ingredients: all-purpose flour, three large (room temperature) eggs, and a teaspoon of kosher salt. 

A food processor does all of the work. This is a no-knead pasta dough! After the dough comes together, it is wrapped in cellophane and allowed to sit at room temperature for an hour before being put through the pasta maker. If you have never made homemade pasta before, consider giving it a try. 

There are only two cheeses in this lasagna: Parmigiano-Reggiano and fresh, whole milk mozzarella (versus the slightly rubbery mozzarella, sometimes called low-moisture mozzarella). Although grating fresh, whole-milk mozzarella is a little messier, it's softer, buttery texture gives a more delicate flavor to the finished dish. Like a high quality extra-virgin olive oil, great ingredients make great dishes. So splurge on and grate your own Parmigiano-Reggiano and fresh, whole milk mozzarella.

There is no need to cook the sheets of homemade pasta as the sauce does all of the work. Beginning with a layer of sauce on the bottom of 9"x12" pan comes a layer of pasta, a thin layer of sauce, a sprinkling of the grated cheeses, basil leaves (torn into pieces if large), and another thin layer of sauce. This assembly is repeated until all of the pasta is used. The final, top layers are sauce and the grated cheeses.

In a 400 degree preheated oven, the lasagna bakes for 35-40 minutes (my baking time was 40 minutes). Allowing the lasagna to rest for 15-30 minutes before cutting is critical and will ensure the cut squares of lasagna remain intact when plated. Note: I waited 30 minutes. To keep warm, you can tent a piece of aluminum foil over the resting lasagna before cutting, however, it retained its' heat without it. 

I had considered adding layers of roasted vegetables to the lasagna, but honestly it was as close to lasagna perfection without them. Before you decide whether to add them or not, first make this lasagna without them. The beauty of this deceptively light lasagna is in its' simplicity.

If anyone ever asked me to participate in a lasagna throw down, I would win it with this lasagna!  Of course, it would be a shared win with the majority of the credit going to Julia Turshen. Her recipe is not just a small victory, it is pure genius. Yes, it is really that good. This is the kind of 'forget your table manners and lick the plate clean' dish you will want to guiltlessly gorge yourself on.

Recipe
A Nice "Vegetarian" Lasagna (slight adaptations to Julia Turshen's A Nice Lasagna recipe shared in her recently published cookbook "Small Victories: Recipes, Advice & Hundreds of Ideas for Home-Cooking Triumphs")

Ingredients
Sauce
Two 28 ounce (794 g) cans whole peeled plum tomatoes (I used Delallo Organic Italian Whole Peeled Plum Tomatoes in heavy juice, but any good whole peeled Italian tomatoes should work.)
3 Tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
4-5 cloves of garlic, thinly sliced
1 teaspoon kosher salt, plus more for taste, if needed
8 ounces creme fraiche (recommend Vermont Creamery's Creme Fraiche)

Pasta
2 1/4 cups (270 g) all-purpose flour, plus more as needed
3 large eggs, room temperature
1 teaspoon kosher salt

Assembly
1 generous cup (120-140 g) finely grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese
12 ounces coarsely grated fresh, whole-milk mozzarella cheese
1 to 2 large handful fresh basil leaves, torn into small pieces if large (Note: Original recipe called for 2 large handfuls)

Directions
Sauce
1. In a medium to large sized bowl, crush the tomatoes with your hands until they are in bite sized pieces.
2. In a heavy bottomed, large saucepan, heat the extra-virgin olive oil over medium-high heat. Add sliced garlic and cook until it begins to sizzle (approximately 1 minutes). Add the hand crushed tomatoes and one teaspoon of kosher salt. 
3. Bring to a boil, then lower heat and simmer for 30-45 minutes, stirring every so often. Note: The sauce should be slightly reduced. 
4. Remove from the heat and whisk in the creme fraiche. Season with additional salt, if needed. Allow sauce to cool to room temperature.

Pasta
1. Combine the flour, eggs and salt in the bowl of a food processor. Run the machine until the dough forms around the blade and cleans the side of the bowl. Notes: The dough should not stick to your fingers when you touch it. If the dough is too dry, add water 1 teaspoon at a time. If it is too sticky, add a little flour 1 teaspoon at a time until the dough comes together. The size of your eggs (even large eggs have some variability) and the humidity in the air may affect your dough.
2. Remove dough from the food processor, form into a flat disk, lightly flour, and tightly wrap in plastic wrap. Let the dough rest at room temperature for an hour.
3. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper and have additional sheets of parchment paper cut.
4. Cut the rested dough into 6 pieces. Work with one piece at a time, keeping other pieces covered in plastic wrap.
5. Run the dough through the pasta machine beginning with the widest setting (this was a 1 on my Atlas) rolling it twice on this setting. Continue working the dough through the narrower settings until the pasta reaches a thickness of an envelope. It should be thin, but not transparent. Note: I ended on setting 5.
6. Lay the pasta sheets on the parchment paper lined baking pan. Cover with a piece of parchment paper. Note: I cut each sheet into three pieces before covering with the parchment paper. 
7. Repeat the process with the rest of the dough.
Assembly
1. Preheat oven to 400 degrees (F). 
2. Ladle a thin layer of the pasta sauce on the bottom of the pan. Spread to cover the surface of the baking dish.
3. Add a layer of pasta (first brushing off any excess flour) to form a single layer. Spoon sauce over the pasta, just enough to cover. Sprinkle grated cheeses and basil. 
4. Repeat process beginning with a thin layer of sauce until you have used up all of the pasta. Note: I ended up with six layers of pasta.
5. The final, top layer should be sauce and the cheeses.
6. Bake uncovered until it has browned beautifully and the edges are bubbling. Approximately 35-40 minutes.
7. Allow the lasagna to rest for 15 to 30 minutes before slicing and serving. The rest time allows the pasta to fully absorb the hot, bubbling sauce. Note: A wait time of 30 minutes resulted in perfectly cut slices.

Notes: (1) Make the sauce first as it needs to cool before assembling the lasagna. (2) If you don't make the homemade pasta, use fresh sheets of store-bought pasta. (3) I was conservative with the amount of fresh basil. Next time I would increase how much I used. The original recipe called for 2 handfuls, I probably used 1 handful. (4) Use the best ingredients available. (5) I increased the amount of cheeses slightly. Original recipe called for 1 cup (100 g) of grated parmesan and mozzarella cheeses. (6) Make this lasagna sooner rather than later.

Weekend Farmer's Market finds.

Pollo Alla Romana

Almost ten years ago when I moved from one house to another, I witnessed seeing more than 25 years of cooking magazines being thrown into the dumpster. Not because there wasn't any room in the two super-sized moving trucks, but because the person who shall remain nameless said it was time for me to let go of a few things. At the time, it felt like I was having a limb removed without the benefit of any anesthesia. Needless to say I survived. My collection of more than two hundred cookbooks contained more recipes than I could possibly make in several lifetimes. Now ten years later, I have amassed a new collection of cooking magazines and probably another hundred cookbooks. Each time I go into one of the shrinking storage rooms in the basement or look at the sagging bookshelves, I began to wonder if I should get rid of some of these magazines. It's always easier, yet not necessarily less painful, when you make this decision yourself. Even though I have long since given up remembering which of the magazines contained recipes I loved or wanted to make (there is only so much space in my memory bank for such things), I am (slowly) coming around to the realization that I don't need to save every magazine I buy. And tearing out pages from them isn't a sacrilegious act or heinous crime. So this past week I began the process of going through this new ten year cooking magazine collection. Deciding which ones to keep or which recipes to save. It's a different kind of pain this time, but at least it's not one requiring any medical intervention or the intake of massive quantities of painkillers. As long as no one asks me to get rid of any of my cookbooks, I think I will be just fine.

Pollo Alla Romana is an old, traditional summer dish originating from the Castelli Romani in Lazio, a collection of towns once inhabited by noble Roman families in the 14th century. 'Alla Romana' simply means 'Roman Style'. This classic rustic dish was typically prepared for Ferragosto, the August 15th holiday, celebrating the Assumption of the Virgin Mary. Prepared early in the morning and served later in the day may have been a way for Italian cooks to avoid having to cook a meal during the hottest time of the day. However, in actuality there is a greater benefit of the the cook early-serve later approach. The flavors further deepen as the dish rests. But for an even deeper flavor, making it the day before and reheating to 'warm' before serving is how it should be made. While it's incredibly delicious served on the same day it's made, the overnight mellowing of the flavors transforms the Polla Alla Romana into one causing you to never want to leave the dinner table. 

Tasting Rome: Fresh Flavors and Forgotten Recipes From an Ancient City by Katie Parla and Kristina Gill is turning into one of my new favorite cookbooks. The recipe for this version of Pollo Alla Romana was inspired by theirs. Other than using chicken breasts and thighs (instead of a whole chicken cut up) and increasing the amount of diced tomatoes, I tried to stay true to all of the recommended ingredients.

Even though using bone-in chicken (versus deboned chicken) is known to add more flavor to any recipe, I decided to use a combination of boneless, skinless chicken breasts and thighs. Although the next time (and there will be next time) I make it, it will be with using skin-on (but still boneless) chicken breasts and thighs. So the dish at least gets the benefit of the flavor from the skin's fat.

Salting and refrigerating the chicken for at least six hours or overnight was one of the recommendations in the recipe. They should have made it a requirement. So instead I am.

The chicken and peppers/onions are initially cooked separately before ultimately being combined. This type of cooking process allows each of ingredients to absorb something from the other. The result is a savory rich dish having very distinctive flavors.

Some recipes for Polla Alla Romana call for the use of both red and green peppers. However, this version of the recipe recommended using red and yellow peppers. And not because yellow peppers have a sweeter flavor than the more bitter green peppers. Rather because the combination of yellow and red in this dish represents the colors of the city's flag and AS Roma, one of Rome's two professional soccer teams. Apparently the Roman's show allegiance to their favorite soccer team has influenced the making of ancient Roman recipes.

Instead of cutting the seeded peppers into one inch strips, mine were cut into half-inch strips. Once the chicken has been browned on all sides and removed from the pan, the peppers, onions, and garlic were sautéed until tender. The addition of dry white wine helped to lift up the brown bits of chicken as well as added even more flavor. After the diced tomatoes and marjoram were added, the browned chicken was returned to the pan. Then the magic started to happen.

Adding just enough water (which really shouldn't be very much) to ensure the chicken is at least halfway submerged, the chicken is cooked to a point of perfect tenderness while the sauce thickens and develops a deep red color. Cooking time may range from 30 to 45 minutes (or longer depending on the heat setting of your stove). Note: My cooking time was somewhere between 45 and 50 minutes.

Instead of serving the chicken on the same day it is made, I would strongly encourage you to shred the cooked chicken, return to the sauce, and refrigerate overnight. I am not sure I can put into words the taste difference between the same day and next day versions. So all I will say is I heard an almost window shattering 'wow' immediately after someone took a bite of the next day Pollo Alla Romana. 

Served with a salad, some great crusty bread and a great bottle (or two) of wine, the Pollo Alla Romana becomes an undeniably perfect summer and year round meal. If made the day before, it becomes one of those seemingly effortless meals. With peppers coming into the height of their season, there may be no better time to make this dish for the first time. It is perfect meal to serve at a casual or intimate gathering of family and/or friends. Everyone will feel as if they have been transported to Rome and maybe no one will leave the table until the last morsel has been eaten.

Recipe
Pollo Alla Romana (slight adaptation to the Pollo Alla Romano recipe from Tasting Rome: Fresh Flavors and Forgotten Recipes From an Ancient City by Katie Parla and Kristina Gill)

Ingredients
3 3-1/2 pounds of a combination of boneless/skin-on chicken breasts and thighs
Kosher salt
3 Tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
2 large red peppers, seeded and cut into 1/2 strips
1 large yellow or orange pepper, seeded cut into 1/2 strips
2-3 large cloves of garlic, coarsely chopped
2 yellow onions, cut into 1/4" rings
1/2 cup dry white wine (I used a Pinot Grigio)
1 Tablespoon freshly chopped marjoram
16-20 ounces canned diced tomatoes
Great crusty bread (for serving)

Directions
1. Season chicken with salt. Cover and refrigerate for 6 hours or overnight.
2. In a large skillet, heat olive oil over medium heat. When oil begins to simmer, add chicken, skin side down and cook until browned on all sides (about 7-10 minutes). Remove chicken from pan and set aside.
3. Add the onions, peppers, and garlic to the pan and cook over medium heat until the onions and peppers have softened (about 10 minutes). 
4. Add wine, increase heat to high and scrape up any of the brown bits on the bottom of the pan. After the alcohol aroma dissipates, add the tomatoes and marjoram. 
5. Return chicken to the pan and cook stirring occasionally for 30-45 minutes or until chicken is tender and sauce has a thick consistency and color is a deep red. Note: Add a small amount of water to pan to ensure chicken is partially submerged when cooking. If the sauce becomes dry while cooking add either some additional diced tomatoes or some water. 
6. Remove pan from stove and transfer to a large platter. Serve hot or at room temperature.
7. OR allow the chicken to come to room temperature. Remove chicken and shred. Return chicken to tomato/pepper sauce. Cover and refrigerate overnight. Reheat before serving. Note: Highly recommend waiting overnight before serving.

Notes: The original recipe called for the use of a whole chicken cut into 8 pieces. Instead of using deboned chicken breasts and thighs, could use bone-in chicken breasts and thighs.

Benches in the Chicago Botanic Garden, Glencoe, Illinois (2016)

Blueberry Dutch Baby

Breakfast seems to be one of these meals we are often in a hurry to eat. Usually this means when going out for breakfast we set relatively short time parameters around the time it takes to place the order to the time it is brought to the table. Invariably we often avoid ordering any menu item requiring a twenty minute wait time. For some reason twenty minutes in the morning is considered an endless eternity. We need to convince ourselves we are much too busy to wait that long. Although we think nothing of waiting in endless lines at the coffee shop, at the ice cream shop on a really hot summer's day, or at an amusement park. Essentially our perception of 'too long' is consistently inconsistent. Because if we really want something badly enough, we usually manage to deal with the wait time.

Dutch Babies are those 'do I really have to wait twenty minutes?' breakfast menu items causing us some angst. As soon as we place a breakfast order for anything other than a Dutch Baby, it seems the universe conspires against us. Within seconds of the server leaving our table, another server delivers a a tray of Dutch Babies to the table sitting next to us. The sight of them immediately makes our mouths water or drool or both. Suddenly our perspective shifts and we silently admit a twenty minute wait is really not that long at all. So instead of going out for breakfast and not ordering what you  crave, why not just stay in and make some Dutch Babies!

With the possible exception of wild blueberries, you more than likely generally have all of the ingredients for the making of this Blueberry Dutch Baby on hand. Less time consuming than making traditional pancakes and with a greater visual wow factor at the table, Dutch Babies are an impressive breakfast or brunch dish. By using different seasonal ingredients (blueberries, apples) or simply topping with a homemade lemon curd you may never grow tired of either making and devouring them. 

A prior dutch baby recipe post (Dutch Baby, At Last) used slightly different ingredients in the batter. I would be hard pressed to say which one of these Dutch Babies I liked better. Although in one bite of this Blueberry Dutch Baby and I was immediately smitten with the flavor the smaller, wild blueberries, lightly sprinkled with fresh squeezed lemon juice and finished with a generous dusting of confectionary sugar brought to it. Unfortunately fresh wild blueberries (a much smaller version of the blueberries most of us are familiar with) are not readily available here in the midwest. Driving to Maine or Canada is not a feasible option, so I instead used frozen wild blueberries (with success!). The recipe in Yankee Magazine called for using only one half cup of wild blueberries, but I can tell you now your Blueberry Dutch Baby really needs somewhere between three-quarters to a full cup of them.

The key to making the batter for a Dutch Baby is three-fold: use the best possible ingredients, use room temperature eggs, and whatever you do, do not over blend the batter. A lumpy Dutch Baby batter is a really good batter.

Cast iron pans and Dutch Babies are inseparable. Not only do they conduct heat evenly, they can stand up to relatively high oven temperatures (like the 425 degrees (F) oven temperature called for in this recipe). Cast iron pans at antique stores or flea markets may be a little more expensive than the newer ones made today although either of them will work (this comes from someone who has both). Never ever use a non-stick pan when making a Dutch Baby. Both your pan and your Dutch Baby will be ruined.

Getting the cast iron pan hot is important when making this puffy pancake. The best way to accomplish that goal is to first preheat the oven before placing the pan with the three tablespoons of butter in it. Not only will your butter melt (within about a minute) perfectly, your pan will be evenly heated. Once the butter is melted, the batter is poured into the pan first and then topped with the blueberries. In about 20-22 minutes you will the most beautiful, insanely delicious golden browned, puffy pancake. 

As soon as the Dutch Baby has finished baking, remove from the oven and immediately squeeze a half of small lemon over the top and dust generously with confectionary sugar. Serve immediately! Because part of the experience of a eating a Dutch Baby is taking it in with your eyes make certain everyone is at the table ready and waiting as the Dutch Baby will slightly deflate in a relatively short period of time. While it is as delicious fully puffed as it is deflated, seeing it puffed might make everyone at the table think twice before passing on ordering a Dutch Baby the next time they go out for breakfast at a restaurant. Life may be short, but who wants a life without a Dutch Baby, especially a Blueberry one.

Recipe
Blueberry Dutch Baby (slight adaptation to Yankee Magazine's Blueberry Dutch Baby recipe, July/August 2016)
Serves 2 generously and 4 slightly less generously

Ingredients
1/2 cup (65g) all-purpose flour
1/2 cup whole milk
2 large eggs, room temperature
2 Tablespoons sugar
1/8 teaspoon kosher salt
1/8 teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg or ground nutmeg
3/4 to 1 cup wild blueberries (fresh or frozen)
3 Tablespoon unsalted butter
Juice of 1/2 lemon
Confectionary sugar for finishing
Optional: Maple syrup

Directions
1. Preheat oven to 425 degrees (F) and position rack to lower position in oven.
2. Lightly beat the flour, milk, eggs, sugar, salt and nutmeg. Do not over beat as batter should be slightly lumpy.
3. Place butter in 9 inch cast iron pan. Place in oven. Allow butter to melt (about 1 minute).
4. Carefully remove pan from oven, immediately pour batter into the heated skillet and sprinkle with wild blueberries. 
5. Place pan in oven and bake until puffed and golden, approximately 20-22 minutes. Remove from oven.
6. Immediately sprinkle with fresh lemon juice and generously dust with confectionary sugar.
7. Serve immediately.

Notes: (1) I used one cup of wild blueberries here, but 3/4 cup could work as well. Anything less and well, it wouldn't be as delicious, (2) In the midwest, finding fresh wild blueberries (from Maine or Canada) is a challenge. Most grocery stores sell smaller wild blueberries in the freezer section, (3) Serving with maple syrup is optional, but not necessary. Personally I prefer a Dutch Baby without maple syrup, (4) This recipe definitely calls for the use of a cast iron pan. You can find vintage cast iron pans in antique stores and some flea markets or you can find new ones in a good culinary store. If buying new would recommend Lodge cast iron pans. Everyone should have at least one cast iron pan and (5) Feel free to make the base of this Blueberry Dutch Baby using the Dutch Baby, At Last recipe posted on the blog.

Views in Bar Harbor and on Mt. Desert Island (Maine)

Lasagna Bolognese

Let me begin with a kinda, sorta forewarning about one of the most blissfully delicious, soul satisfying, decadent lasagnas on the planet, one you will fall hopelessly, deeply in love with in the first bite. This Lasagna Bolognese is an ambitious labor of love. Suffice to say this is a dish you should make only for the family and friends in your life that you really, really, really, really like. More specifically, for those in your life who, while sitting at your dinner table, unabashedly express their euphoria moments after their taste buds go into overdrive. Definitely do not make this dish for the kind, for whatever reason or reasons, have the uncanny ability to refrain from sharing or showing the joy their taste buds are experiencing, begin critiquing the dish ('did you put too much garlic in?') or who get all effusive about a lasagna they had elsewhere. Because if there was ever a Lasagna Bolognese to share with your most favorite people in the universe, one where you (or they) wouldn't care if the world or life as you know it ended tomorrow, this would be the one. 

I know what you may be thinking "we all don't experience the tastes of things the same way so maybe not everyone will be doing backflips and handstands at the table". To a certain extent I might concede to the possibility there is some truth to that belief. Except for the well documented fact there are some foods and dishes so incredible in taste and texture they transcend all of our individual unique food experiences and preferences. Generically speaking, pizza, ice cream and bread, are amongst the foods with the most universal appeal. While lasagna may be one of those dishes where our love or ambivalence for them is due in large part to the kinds of lasagna we grew up eating, this Lasagna Bolognese is a game-changer. For those brave enough to willing admit their Lasagna rating bar was set against frozen lasagna dinners or ones made with commercially sold jarred sauces, they won't be able to keep their heads from spinning after tasting this Lasagna Bolognese. 

This Lasagna Bolognese is made with a veal and pork ragu simmered to perfection, a white bechamel sauce ever so lightly seasoned with salt and a hint of grated nutmeg, freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese, and sheets of fresh lasagna noodles (no you don't have to make your own pasta if you don't want to as you can find some really high quality fresh pasta in the refrigerated section of many grocery stores). To make the process of making this Lasagna Bolognese seem less labor intensive you can make the Bolognese Ragu a day ahead (cover and chill in the refrigerator). Rather than trying to the 'hostess with mostest" after an exhaustive day of cooking, make and assemble the entire Lasagna Bolognese the day before (cover and chill in the refrigerator). Not only will enjoy your dinner gathering as much as everyone else, you also give the flavors of the ragu some time to further develop. In other words, if you pace yourself the feelings of love will overshadow the labor.

Finely diced carrots, celery and onion (along with thinly sliced garlic) starts out as an Italian Buttato and transforms into a Soffritto when sautéed in extra-virgin olive oil. This cousin to France's mirepoix become the flavor base for the ragu. Key to the soffrito is three-fold: finely diced uniform pieces of vegetables; using a large heavy bottomed pan; and, sautéeing just until they have softened and translucent but not browned.

The second layer of richness comes from the ground pork, ground veal, and pancetta. Before adding the meats to the pan, temporarily transfer the Soffritto to a bowl, to enable them to brown.

After the meats are browned and the Soffritto returned to the pan, add the tomato paste, milk, wine, and thyme bundle are stirred in and brought just to a boil, the heat is reduced to a simmer. The ragu should be allowed to simmer for 1 1/2 to 2 hours, however, the longer you simmer the deeper its' flavor. If your mixture seems to become 'too' thick, add in a little water (I added about a cup of water after about an hour). Season with salt and pepper, remove the thyme bundle, and allow to cool before assembling the lasagna.

The more classic Northern Italian lasagnas are made with a bechamel (besciamella in Italian) sauce, versus ricotta cheese found in other versions of the recipe. Considered to be one of the simplest of the Italian sauces and one of the five 'mother' sauces in French cooking, the bechamel sauce adds flavor and creaminess to this Lasagna Bolognese along with helping to keep the pasta from drying out. The key to making this sauce is making sure the butter/flour roux is a light golden brown before slowly adding in the milk. Patience is key here. In about 15-20 minutes you will have created a smooth, creamy, thickened (but spreadable) bechamel sauce.

Call me a cheese snob (I have been called worse), but nothing compares to the nutty, complex flavor of Parmigiano-Reggiano. Nothing. So don't even think of using any else.

Now here's the point in the recipe where I made a substitution. I (gasp) used 'fresh' but not 'homemade' pasta sheets. While the 'fresh' pasta found in the refrigerated section (not to be confused with those in the box 'no boil' pasta sheets), they are next best thing to homemade pasta. You can certainly make your pasta for this Lasagna Bolognese, but you can't those slippery curly edged lasagna noodles cooked in boiling water. Really you can't. 

To assemble this epic pasta dish, begin with a layer of the ragu, a sprinkling of the grated Parmigiano-Reggiano, a layer of pasta, a layer of bechemal, a layer of ragu, a sprinkling of the grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese....until all of the sauce and pasta are used up but ensuring the top layer is the pasta with the bechamel sauce over it. Before putting the Lasagna Bolognese in a preheated 375 degree (F) oven, generously finish with more grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese. Note: In a 9"x12" pan you will have 4 to 5 layers of pasta if using the fresh, refrigerated pasta sheets, but more layers if you use your own homemade pasta.  The Lasagna is baked for 30 to 45 minutes (longer if you had made it the night before) until the edges are browned and is cooked through. Allow it to set at least 15-20 minutes before cutting and serving. Then brace yourself for the most delicious meal of your life.

So how much do I love this Lasagna Bolognese? Almost as much as I love chocolate; puppies; the sound of a giggling baby; the deep rich colors of a beautiful sunset; the sound of the ocean; a bouquet of deep blue hydrangeas; the feel and smell of clean, hung out to dry in the fresh air sheets; a long, windows open drive out in the country; two-armed hugs; bringing a smile to the face of everyone sitting at my dining room table (handstands or backflips optional).......Your search for the most perfect, best, most mouthwatering lasagna is over. Buon appetito!

Recipe
Lasagna Bolognese (several adaptations to Mario Batali's Lasagna Bolognese recipe shared on The Food Network and in his cookbook Molto Italiano: 327 Simple Italian Recipes to Cook at Home)

NOTE: Recipe updated March 20, 2018

Ingredients
Bologonese Ragu (make about 6 cups)
1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil
2 medium onions, finely chopped
4 ribs of celery, finely chopped
2 medium carrots, finely chopped
5-6 cloves of garlic, thinly sliced
1 to 1 1/4 pounds ground veal
1 to 1 1/4 pounds ground pork
4 ounces pancetta (either run through a meat grinder or finely diced)
9 ounces tomato paste
1 1/4 cups whole milk
1 1/4 cups dry white wine
1 bundle of fresh thyme leaves (about 4-5 stems)
2 teaspoons kosher salt (or more to taste)
1 teaspoon black pepper
Water, if needed, during the cooking process

Bechamel Sauce
5 Tablespoons unsalted butter
4 Tablespoons all-purpose flour
3 cups whole milk
2 teaspoons Kosher salt
1/2 teaspoon pepper
1/2 teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg

Lasagna Assembly
2 (12-14 ounce) packages of fresh lasagna noodles (Note: Briefly (45-60 seconds) cook each of the pasta sheets in hot simmering water)
8-10 ounces Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese, grated

Directions
Bologonese Ragu
1. In the bottom of a large heavy bottomed pan, heat the olive oil over medium heat until hot. Add the onions, celery, carrots, and garlic and cook until the vegetables are translucent but not browned (about 5-7 minutes). Transfer to a bowl and set aside to cool slightly. Note: I often like to process these sauteed vegetables in a food processor for about a minute, ensuring the mixture does not turn to paste.
2. Increase the heat to high and the pancetta. Cook the pancetta until beginning to turn brown (approximately 4-5 minutes). Then add the pork and veal to the pan (stirring frequently). Cook until the meats have browned.
3. Add the tomato paste to the pan. Cook for approximately 4-5 minutes or until the tomato paste takes on a deeper red color. Return vegetables along with the milk, wine, and thyme bundle. Season lightly with salt and pepper. Bring just a boil, then reduce heat to low and simmer for 1 1/2 to 2 hours. Note: You may need to add some water midway through to keep the sauce's consistency.
4. Taste for seasoning. Add additional salt and pepper if needed. Remove from heat and allow to cool before assembling the lasagna.

Bechamel Sauce
1. Melt the butter in a heavy bottomed, medium sized saucepan over medium heat.
2. Add the flour into the butter and whisk into the butter until smooth. Continue to cook the mixture (whisking constantly) until the butter/flour roux turns a light golden brown (about 5-6 minutes).
3. Begin by adding about 1/4 cup of the milk whisking constantly into the butter/flour roux is again smooth. Then add the remaining milk in three to four (or even five) equal portions, whisking until the sauce begins to thicken after each addition. 
4. Add the grated nutmeg, salt and pepper and allow the bechamel sauce to simmer (on low heat) for about 8-10 minutes. Taste and adjust for season. 
5. Allow to cool slightly before assembling the lasagna.
Note: If you add the milk too quickly your bechamel may not properly thicken.

Lasagna Assembly
1. Preheat oven to 375 degrees (F).
2. In a deep dish 9"x12" or 9"x13" baking pan, begin with a layer of the ragu, a sprinkling of the grated Parmigiano-Reggiano, a layer of pasta, a layer of bechamel, a layer of ragu, a sprinkling of the grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese....until all of the sauce and pasta are used up but ensuring the top layer is finished with bechamel sauce.
3. Finish with a generous sprinkling of grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese.
4. Bake 30-45 minutes or until the edges have browned and the lasagna is cooked through. Note: Cooking time will be longer if the lasagna was prepared and refrigerated the day before cooking.
5. Allow to rest 15-20 minutes before serving.

Notes: (1) Assembling the entire dish the day before serving is a life-saver. Individual servings reheat beautifully in the oven or microwave for several days after it has been baked (if it lasts that long). (2) The lasagna can also be frozen. Allow to cool slightly before wrapping and placing in the refrigerator. When slightly chilled place in the freezer (wrapped well). Remove the lasagna from the freezer and allow to thaw before baking in the oven. (3) Recently I started to make more of the bolognese, increasing the recipe by half, so there is extra sauce to serve when plating the lasagna.

Two early morning summer views of Lake Marmo at Morton Arboretum in Lisle, Illinois