Brûléed Pumpkin Pie with Caramel Swirl

My penchant for perseveration has had no boundaries. My ability to maintain the 'continuation of something usually to an exceptional degree or beyond a desired point' and its' relationship to food goes back as far as I can remember. Which for me is aged five, the year I entered the first grade (for some unknown reason the great unsolved mystery in my life is that I never went to kindergarten). I didn't live far enough from my elementary school to stay for lunch, however, on those rare days when I could, my lunch was always the same thing: a bologna and yellow mustard sandwich on white bread. I would continue to have this same sandwich until I graduated from high school. Or in other words, twelve years of my 'school life' were spent eat the same lunch. Even today one bite of a bologna sandwich takes me back to the days of my youth (hmmm, maybe I should start eating them again!).

On my recent trip out east I wanted to take as many photos as possible. On a day trip to Maine, my first stop was York. My first destination was not my favorite antique store, but instead was the Cape Neddick 'Nubble' Lighthouse. I can still hear myself laughing and saying out loud 'so how many times are you going to photograph this lighthouse, the same lighthouse'? 'Less than the number of Colorado aspen photos' I said under my breath. When you spend a part of your life on the perseveration end of a continuum there really isn't a good answer to that question. If you are someone who has taken more than your fair share of sunset, fall landscape, or 'selfie' photos (all perseveration tendencies) you know none of them are never exactly the same. More than place or weather/sky conditions, the proverbial 'lens' you see these things through continually changes resulting in photos having different nuances to them and all evoking a different memory. 

I have been feeling very autumnal which may or may not explain why I am having a serious yearning for all things pumpkin (for the record this doesn't meet my definition of perseveration, yet). The Pumpkin Squares made last wee seemed to open up a 'making all things pumpkin Pandora's box'. Several months ago I came across a recipe for a pumpkin pie swirled with caramel. Pumpkin and caramel combined together in a pie, oh my, be still my heart, was all I could think. As anxious as I was to try this recipe, I thought it best to hold off for a more seasonably appropriate time of the year. For some reason pumpkin pie made and served in the sweltering heat of summer doesn't necessarily bode well for the majority of the world. And making a pie for solely for my own consumption was not an option.

With my pie crust making comfort and confidence levels in a relatively good place, the anticipated official arrival of fall, and the need to put all of those cans of pureed pumpkin to good use, the time had finally come for me to make the Brûléed Pumpkin Pie with Caramel Swirl. Spoiler Alerts: I should have have made this pie months ago. This pie could seriously cause canned pumpkin puree shortages.

After deciding which pie crust to make, I saw many recipes recommending an overnight, instead of the usual couple hour, chilling time. Having put off making this pie far too long and being unable to wait just one more day, I went with a six hour chilling time. No culinary reason for the six hours, it was just as long as I could wait. 

To partially blind bake the crust for 10-15 minutes in a preheated 400 degree oven or not was my first decision. After a short period of going back and forth on this, blind baking won. Filling the pie plate up to the rim with dried beans helped to keep the crust from slipping during pre-baking. I would have to wait until I tasted the pie to decide whether or not this decision was a good one.

While on my east coast trip, I brought back a dozen fresh eggs and a jar of the unbelievable Fat Toad Farm's caramel with the anticipation of using some of it for this pie. The combination of caramel and the sweetened condensed milk is lethal. The result is a pie with a creamy, velvety texture that can only be described as sublime. If a pumpkin filling made with caramel and sweetened condensed milk wasn't enough, there was more. The brûléed added yet another dimension of flavor and texture. I seriously think I could overdose on this Brûléed Pumpkin Pie with Caramel Swirl.

Cinnamon is the only spice in this pie. Next time (and there will be a next time) I will add a scant 1/4 teaspoon of ground cloves (or ground ginger) as the combination of cinnamon and cloves or ginger in a pumpkin pie works for me. However, if you are making this pie for the first time, please know the cinnamon all on its' own works. 

Before the filling went into the partially baked pie crust, the edges were brushed with an egg wash and sprinkled with demerara sugar (any coarse sugar would have the same effect on taste). If, like me, you have never added the egg-sugar finish to the edge of a pumpkin or fruit pie crust, I would strongly recommend you consider doing this. 

A semi-generous 1/4 cup of the caramel is poured over the pie filling then swirled using a knife. 

With the oven temperature reduced to 375 degrees, this pie bakes for 40 to 50 minutes or until the filling is set. Note: This baking time here is for a 9 inch pie plate. If you are using a larger pie plate, your baking time most likely will range from 35 to 45 minutes or until the filling is set. The concept 'baking until just set' means different things to different people. For me, it means there is very little jiggle in the pie 'custard' although there is usually some ever so slight movement in the center of the pie.

To brûlée or not to brûlée was the second decision. It wasn't much of a decision. As beautiful as the un-brûléed finished pie was, it just beckoned to be brûléed. Instead of using granulated sugar, there was not other option (for me) than using the demerara sugar.

For whatever reason pumpkin pie seems to been placed into the very narrow baking window of fall until early winter. In some families it makes an appearance only at Thanksgiving. (What is up with that?) If there was ever an opportunity to change this, it is this Brûléed Pumpkin Pie with Caramel Swirl. If you can't find Fat Toad Farm Caramel, use the best caramel you can find (Fran's makes a really caramel sauce too).

The decision to partially pre-bake the pie shell and brûléeing the top of the pie turned out to be (whew) good ones. Don't feel you have to brûléel this pie. I wouldn't want that step to what stops you from making it. 

I had eaten a sliver of this pie when it was room temperature and another after it had been refrigerated overnight. And honestly I can't decide which one I like better. I might just have to find any plausible reason to make another pie, all in the spirit of making a decision. 

Recipe
Brûléed Pumpkin Pie with Caramel Swirl (pie filling inspired by a recipe from Crepes of Wrath and pie dough recipe shared by Yossy Arefi)

Ingredients
Dough (this recipe makes enough for two pies; freeze any unused dough up to 2 months for later use or roll out, cut into shapes, apply egg wash, and sprinkle with cinnamon sugar and bake 15-20 minutes at 375 degrees)

12 ounces all purpose flour
8 ounces cold unsalted butter (recommend KerryGold), cut into pieces
4 ounces ice water
1 teaspoon apple cider vinegar
1/2 teaspoon Kosher salt

Filling
1 15 ounce can pure pumpkin puree
1 14 ounce can sweetened condensed milk
2 large eggs, room temperature
2 teaspoons Saigon cinnamon
scant 1/4 teaspoon ground cloves or ground ginger (optional)
Generous 1/4 cup caramel (highly recommend Fat Toad Farm caramel)
1 large egg, lightly beaten (for the crust)
Couple of teaspoons of coarse sugar (demerara or turbinado for the crust)
1 to 2 additional Tablespoons of coarse sugar

Directions
Dough 
1. Place the flour and salt into the food processor to mix.
2. Add half of the butter and process slightly. Add remaining butter until mixture is still crumbly.
3. Add cider vinegar to the ice cold water. Slowly pour the vinegar/water into the flour/butter mixture until the dough comes together (be careful to not over process). 
4. Press the dough together, divide in half (forming each one into a disk), wrap in plastic wrap and chill for at least 2 hours (but overnight is recommended).
5. Preheat oven to 400 degrees.
6. Roll out dough on a lightly floured surface and place in pie plate. Place pie plate in the refrigerator for 10-15 minutes.
7. Remove from the refrigerator, line the plate with parchment paper and fill will pie weights or dried beans.
8. Bake for 10 to 15 minutes or until very lightly golden. Remove parchment paper and beans from pie shell.
9. Brush edge of pie shell with a beaten egg and sprinkle with demerara (or other coarse) sugar.
9. Reduce oven temperature to 375 degrees.

Filling
1. Whisk together the pumpkin puree, sweetened condensed milk, eggs and spices. Set aside.
2. Pour filling into a prebaked pie shell 
3. Pour the caramel sauce evenly over the top of the pie. Using a knife or chopsticks, swirl the caramel around.
4. Bake for 40 to 50 minutes or until the pie fillng is set. Note: Baking time is for a 9 inch ceramic pie plate. Baking time may be slightly decreased with a larger pie plate or metal pie pan.
5. Sprinkle top of baked pie with 1 to 2 Tablespoons of demerara sugar. Using a culinary torch, brûlée the sugar.
6. Allow the pie to come to room temperature before slicing. 
Option: Place cooled pie in the refrigerator and serve chilled. 

Over the past two years, I had taken the ferry to Martha's Vineyard four or five times. Either renting bikes or taking the bus, the time there was mostly spent exploring Edgartown and Vineyard Haven. On this recent trip, I decided I needed to rent a car to see up close the Gay Head Cliffs and the 1856 brick Lighthouse in Aquinnah I had read about but had seen only through the eyes of others. The lighthouse is considered to be in danger of falling over the edge of the Gay Head Cliffs as a result of more than a century of erosion and the impact of climate change. Efforts to 'save the lighthouse' have been underway for years. Finding lighthouses compelling (and taking more than my fair share of the photos of the same lighthouses on the east coast), the forty minute drive to the lighthouse seemed to take what felt like an eternity. And the closer I got, the greater the anticipation.

My (im)patience was beyond rewarded. On this day, the skies were various shades of blue and filled with an assortment of cloud formations. The sky and clouds were mesmerizing all on their own making for a 'first sighting' perfect backdrop to the cliffs and the lighthouse. Once there, time suddenly seemed suspended as I took it all in with my own eyes. I may have needed to remind myself to breath.

In replaying the images and feelings of the day on the return ferry trip, I remembered one of my favorite quotes on perspective. "What you see depends not only what you look at, but also, on where you look from." If there was one more thing I could give myself this year, it would not be something tangible. Rather it would be the intangible capacity for a continuously evolving, dynamic perspective on everything from food to life to love. Perseverating on this thought would be one reason why perseveration might not completely be such a bad thing after all.

Pumpkin Squares

After six glorious days on the east coast, I am back home. Or at least I am back in my midwest home. For there is a part of me that will always feel as if Little Compton (Rhode Island) is home to me as well in spite of living there for barely two years. As someone who seriously entertains the concept that we have all been here before, I have often wondered if my strong connection to this town is due in part to having spent time there in another life. But whether or not this is possible, I find it hard to believe that its' compelling, sheer beauty and tranquility are the only reasons I love this place as much as I do. Until moving there, I had never known just how much living near the ocean could simultaneously be both energizing and calming. If there is one thing I know for sure, I shall always continue to be drawn back there in this lifetime.

This trip back was a 'birthday' present of sorts to myself. It was a chance for me to spend time with friends, travel back to some of my favorite places, get in some beach time (weather could not have been more cooperative), do some antiquing, get my fix of lobster rolls, and explore places I had longed to see. From walking the Boston Public Gardens to taking in the breathtaking views of the Aquinnah Cliffs on Martha's Vineyard to traveling along the southern coast of Maine to spending time in Little Compton, this trip definitely ranks high on my list of travels thus far as both my soul and spirit were nurtured.

With many sights to be seen and photos to be taken, there wasn't any time for cooking or baking (a short term hardship). With one exception. In the kitchen of the cottage I was staying in, there was a charming little stove with an oven. It was the perfect size for baking the lobster and artichoke pizzas (brought back from a day trip to Maine) I served at a small gathering I had one evening in the cottage. Is there any lobster better than Maine lobster? There is only answer to that question. No. I think my new favorite toppings on pizza are now (Maine) lobster and artichokes. Already I finding another reason (as if I need one) to get back to east coast.

While there was barely of hint of color on the trees out east, pumpkins, gourds, and cornstalks were in abundance. This may be my imagination or possibly just a personal bias, but the most gorgeous pumpkins are grown out east. (I may have disenfranchised some of you with this belief, but with some degree of confidence I believe the east coast would win a pumpkin throw down. Okay, now I may have pushed some of you over the edge.)  If I could have figured out how to make enough room in my suitcases (I do not pack lightly), I would have brought back some pumpkins with me as their shapes, colors, and textures were insanely, uniquely beautiful. But if my suitcases were going to be overweight (which they were), I decided several bottles of wine must take preference over the pumpkins. I would have to be satisfied looking at my pumpkin photos while savoring the wine.

The last time I made these Pumpkin Squares was last November. They were one of my contributions to the Thanksgiving dinner we shared with friends, a memorable dinner made in a cabin in the Daniel Boone National Forest in Kentucky. The reason for making them this time was less celebratory but no less important as they were for a friend who recently suffered a great loss. Food may often seem unimportant during times of grief, yet it always manages to play an important healing role while we remember those who have left this world. So this time the Pumpkin Squares would be comfort food.

One of my pet peeves is seeing recipes posted on foodblogs where the sources of inspiration or actual recipe creator are conspicuously absent. I could do a rant on this, but will show some restraint. Having said all of this, I am posting a recipe on this blog I have absolutely no idea where I had found it or who its' creator is. In my semi-disorganized approach to researching pumpkin bar and pumpkin square recipes, I failed to note the source. My only contributions to this 'honestly unknown source' recipe was adding walnuts to the batter and adorning the finished pumpkin squares with some white chocolate dipped walnuts (yes, this is an insignificant contribution, I know). But if any of you who read this blog know this recipe's original source, please let me know so I can be relieved of the guilt I am having over posting a recipe not of my own creation.

When canned pumpkin hits the grocery store shelves in late summer early fall, I turn into a hoarder buying more cans than I possibly need for the fall and winter seasons. The rationale for this is two-fold. What if there is a pumpkin shortage one year and canned pumpkin becomes scarce? (probably not likely, but certainly plausible). And, what if I have a craving for pumpkin pie or pumpkin squares or pumpkin bars in the summer? (this is always definitely likely). If pressed further, I might be able to come up with a few more reasons for this obsession with having a semi-ridiculous inventory of canned pumpkin in the pantry.

These Pumpkin Squares are more cake-like in texture. The thickness of the square (and subsequently the baking time) all depends on personal preference. They can be made in a 9x12 pan, a 10x15 pan or even a slightly larger half-sheet cake pan. My choice has been a 10x15 pan (baking time of 35-40 minutes) as I like the thickness of the finished squares as well as the cake to frosting ratio. If using a smaller pan, the baking time is increased and with using a the larger pan the baking time is decreased. In addition to the use of cake tester or toothpick to test for doneness, I also like to use the press lightly method. If it springs back, I know it is done. If an indention remains, it still has more baking time.

Pumpkin squares are also just another (secret) excuse to make cream cheese frosting. When I made them for Thanksgiving I filled a pastry bag with the cream cheese frosting then sprinkled chopped toasted walnuts on top. This time I wanted a different look to the bars. So I simply lathered the frosting over the baked pumpkin squares with an offset spatula and created a simple design (again I probably saw this somewhere too so I am not taking credit for this either).

Before frosting the squares, I always allow them to cool to room temperature and then chill in the refrigerator for a couple of hours. The chilling isn't completely necessary, but I feel as if the squares retain their moistness when chilled. Once iced, they go back in the refrigerator for a second chilling. This chilling makes cutting them much, much easier.

I wanted to find a way to infuse a little bit of chocolate into these pumpkin bars, so I thought white chocolate dipped walnuts would be a perfect (monochromatic) finishing touch on each square. But the options for decorating these squares are somewhat endless. One option being no decorations at all.

Two teaspoons of cinnamon add just the right amount of spice in these Pumpkin Squares. Complimented by the sweetness of the cream cheese frosting makes them equally delicious for breakfast, for a snack, or for dessert. If anything, these pumpkin squares do not need a reason to be made. If you are craving the taste of pumpkin, have more cans of pumpkin in your cupboard than you know what to do with, are in the mood to fill the house with the aroma of pumpkin and cinnamon, or just want to bake something, then make these. If you are making to give away or bring to a gathering, be certain to cut them in such a way there are some uneven pieces left for you.

Recipe
Pumpkin Squares

Ingredients
1 cup vegetable oil
2 cups granulated sugar
4 large eggs, room temperature
2 cups canned pumpkin
2 teaspoons Saigon cinnamon
1/2 teaspoon Kosher salt
1 teaspoon baking soda
2 teaspoons baking powder
2 cups all-purpose flour
1 cup walnuts, roasted and chopped (optional)

16 ounces cream cheese, room temperature
1 cup unsalted butter, room temperature (or combination of unsalted butter and margarine)
6 cups confectionary sugar, sifted
2 teaspoons vanilla
Generous pinch of sea salt

Optional: White chocolate dipped walnuts for decorating. Other options include chopped walnuts, sprinkles, or fall marshmallow candies.

Directions
1. Preheat oven to 350 degrees (F). Line a 10" x 15" cake pan with parchment paper and set aside.
2. Sift together the flour, cinnamon, salt, baking soda and baking powder. Set aside.
3. Using a handheld mixer, beat vegetable oil, sugar and eggs until light and creamy.
4. Mix in pumpkin until mixed.
5. Slowly beat in sifted flour on medium speed until thoroughly combined.
6. Spread batter in prepared pan. Smooth top. Place baking sheet on a larger baking sheet and bake for 35 to 40 minutes or until toothpick comes out clean. Note: Can make in a 9x12 cake pan, but increase baking time to 40-45 minutes or until toothpick comes out clean.
7. Allow baked pumpkin bars to come to room temperature. Place cooled bars in refrigerator to chill.
8. To make cream cheese frosting, first beat cream cheese with butter until smooth. Beat in sifted confectionary sugar and sea salt until well blended. Stir.in vanilla.
9. Spread cream cheese frosting over chilled bars using an offset spatula or with a pastry bag fitted with your pastry tube of choice.
10. Return bars to the refrigerator to chill before cutting into squares.
11. Cut frosted pumpkin bars into squares. Place cut squares in cupcake papers.
12. Serve chilled or at room temperature.

Notes: (1) Cream cheese icing recipe updated in September 2018. The recipe makes slightly more than you need. 

One of the many endearing qualities of Little Compton is the continued practice of the 'on your honor' way of purchasing. For some cities and towns across the country, this would be a throwback Thursday concept, but there it is a present day one. Unattended pumpkins on the roadside, fresh eggs on a table at the end of a driveway, bouquets of flowers on a stand, clusters of fresh herbs and perennials, or boxes of freshly picked fruits/vegetables are all accompanied by a container of some sort or another (more often than not unlocked so you can make change) to place your money in (or in some cases to leave a note saying you will back the next day). I had often wondered why in this day and age such a practice continues, not just there but in other places too (still clinging to an idealistic way of viewing the world and trying not to succumb to a rather jaded way of thinking).

At the memorial service for the sister of my friend, there were many words spoken. But the words 'our goal in life is to make the visible the invisible grace of God' had me take pause for many reasons. The least of which maybe was they also seemed to provide the answer to at least one of my many wonderings. Proving to me once again epiphanies can happen at any time, in any place, sometimes sooner, sometimes later, but always, better late than never.

Roasted Eggplant Parmesan

There are so many different words I could use to describe our girls weekend trip to Lake Geneva, it would be impossible to choose just one. Perfect. Fun. Memorable. Not even having a state trooper ask us what we didn't understand about a police barricade and the solid white line on the highway could spoil it. 

In addition to coming home with photographs, memories and stories, I also managed to come home with a few treasures (Honestly I can't remember the last time I went on a trip where I didn't come home with a treasure or two). Dangerous might also be a word to describe this trip. My weekend finds included some (real) deer antlers, a large galvanized metal tray (perfect backdrop for blog photos), and some vintage silverware. Like all of the other treasures I found on past trips over the years, these too are destined to be reminders of time spent with friends, each one having a story associated it. The day I cannot remember when or where I bought the things I have acquired over the years will be a day when I need to start worrying about my memory. Thankfully and fortunately my memory (for all odd pieces of information) remains intact. Who knew buying things could be a strategy for strengthening one's memory?

Included in the adventures of the weekend was a stop at the farmer's market. There were piles of freshly harvested pumpkins, but the size and quantity of the other purchases was going to make bringing some pumpkins home impossible. But not all was lost. The eggplant at the market was too beautiful to resist and there would be room in the car for them (of course, I just had to buy some). 

Having made more than my fair share of ratatouille these past few weeks, it was time to use the eggplant differently. Specifically in a new, different eggplant parmesan recipe. One using Mario Batali's technique and version as the inspiration. Rather than coating thin slices of eggplant in an egg, flour and bread crumbs, then frying in olive oil, Batali shows respect for and enhances the eggplant's rich, complex flavor by first roasting rather than frying it. Brilliant! Why had I not known this before? My lame excuse is that my ethnic heritage does not include even a teeny tiny amount of Italian. The roasting process creates a depth of flavor giving the eggplant parmesan a flavor more decadent as well as more delicious than the fried version.

To cut the eggplant lengthwise or crosswise, that was the first question. Traditionally most think of cutting the eggplant into rounds rather than planks when making eggplant parmesan. However, for dishes where the eggplant is layered, cutting it lengthwise allows its fleshly surface to take on more color and flavor. Considering this eggplant parmesan was going to be all about flavor, lengthwise slices it would be. To cut thickly or thinly, that was the next question. Because eggplant is known for losing some of its' moisture and volume when roasted, thicker slices (at least 1/4 inch thick) would ensure the finished dish would be one where the meatiness of the eggplant would not be lost. (Note: In updating this post the eggplant was inadvertently cut vertically. But heed the advice of cutting it horizontally.)

Layering the sliced eggplant in a deep bowl or colander (sprinkling each layer with coarse salt) and allowing it to sit to thirty minutes helps to drain out any excess water (no one wants a watery eggplant parmesan) as well as aids in removing the bitter taste from the eggplant. After thirty minutes, each eggplant slice is dried with a paper towel before being dredged in flour. Whatever you do, do not rinse the 'sweat' from the eggplant. Not only does the salt add flavor, it helps the eggplant absorb some of the liquid of the 'sauce', further reducing any chance for a 'watery' eggplant parmesan.

Each of the baking sheets are coated somewhat generously with extra-virgin olive oil. I didn't measure it out so I can't be specific. A thin coating of olive oil won't be enough as the eggplant's absorbency powers are incredible. The eggplant shouldn't be swimming in olive oil, but there needs to be enough to help 'sauté' it while it roasts in a preheated 450 degree oven. Additionally, the top of each eggplant slice is drizzled/brushed with extra-virgin olive oil.

The total roasting time for the eggplant is thirty (30) minutes, fifteen (15) minutes per side. Having the eggplant slices cut to a consistent thickness (again, at least 1/4 inch) will ensure they cook evenly (a lesson learned in the roasting process). Would strongly suggest you check on the eggplant slices midway through the second 15 minutes of roasting time just to be certain you don't ruin/dry out/burn any of the slices.

I absolutely love a marinara sauce having a detectable garlic flavor. Lidia Batianiach's salsa marinara aka marinara sauce is one of my favorites, however, for this eggplant parmesan recipe I made several changes to her recipe. No, I didn't back down on the amount of garlic used, but did cut the peeled cloves into thin slices rather than crushing and chopping them. Instead of using two teaspoons of course salt I used only one as there was already going be enough salt in the finished dish (remember the eggplant slices were salted while they were sweating for 30 minutes). Lastly, rather than use two 28 ounce cans of crushed San Marzano tomatoes, I used one 28 ounce can of crushed and one 28 ounce can of diced San Marzano tomatoes. I actually loved the taste and consistency of the finished sauce so much, I am thinking of making these changes permanent ones.

The sauce simmers while the the eggplant roasts. At a minimum the sauce should simmer for 30 minutes, but increasing the simmer time to 40 to 45 minutes helps to create a richer, less 'watery' sauce.

Call me a cheese snob but there is a world of difference between the taste of freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano and all other forms of grated domestic or international parmesan cheeses. It's sharp, slightly complex nutty flavor adds just the right amount of savoriness to the eggplant parmesan. The difference in cost between Parmigiano-Reggiano and all other parmesan cheeses is insignificant compared to the difference in taste each brings to this dish.

The layering process begins with a thin layer of sauce on the bottom of the pan followed by a layer of roasted eggplant, grated Parmigiano-Reggiano, and then another thin layer of sauce. After two sequences of this layering process, there is a single layer fresh mozzarella, sliced (not grated). Yes, fresh mozzarella. There are two more sauce/eggplant/cheese/sauce layers creating a total of 5 distinct layers. Before placing in a preheated 400 degree (F) oven, the eggplant parmesan is sprinkled with even more grated Parmigiano-Reggiano.

The eggplant parmesan bakes for 40 to 45 minutes or until the top is lightly browned. If your eggplant had not fully sweated or your sauce was too thin, you may find the eggplant parmesan will ooze some liquid. If that happens, all is not lost, simply press down on the eggplant and spoon off any excess liquid. Would recommend checking your eggplant parmesan halfway through the baking process to check on it and to prevent it from turning 'watery'.

As hard as it may be to wait, allow the eggplant parmesan to rest for at least 15 to 20 minutes before serving. Your patience will be rewarded.

With all seriousness, I will never go back to frying or to thinly cutting the eggplant again when making eggplant parmesan. The difference in the cooking process, in the texture, in the taste, and in the flavor of a roasted eggplant parmesan is significant. Every now and then a different version of a recipe comes along that gives our 'traditional, tried and true' ones a run for their money, forcing us to choose between staying with what we know or moving on to something new. Yes, I know, change can be hard, particularly around 'recipes' as it moves us out of our comfort zones and makes us feel like we are being disloyal to a memory. But like the change in season from summer to fall, life is all about change. It just so happens this Roasted Eggplant Parmesan recipe is a game changer!

Recipe
Roasted Eggplant Parmesan (inspired by the recipes and cooking techniques of Mario Batali and Lidia Bastinach)
Post updated October 2020

Ingredients
Marinara
1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil
14-16 cloves of garlic, thinly sliced
1 (28 ounce) can San Marzano crushed tomatoes
1 (28 ounce) can San Marzano diced tomatoes
2 -3 Tablespoons granulated sugar (strongly recommend using 3 Tablespoons)
1 teaspoon Kosher salt (if making the marinara for another use, use 2 teaspoons of Kosher salt)
1/2 teaspoon Aleppo pepper
10-12 fresh basil leaves, sliced into slivers

Eggplant
5 to 6 medium sized eggplants (choose male eggplants as they have the least amount of seeds)
Kosher salt
1 generous cup (140g) all-purpose flour
Extra-virgin olive oil
2 generous cups grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese
1 to 1 1/2 pounds fresh mozzarella, sliced into 1/4 inch slices (more cheese is better)

Directions
Marinara
1. Heat extra virgin olive oil in a heavy deep saucepan. Add garlic slices and cook until lightly browned.
2. Add crushed and diced tomatoes. Bring mixture to a boil.
3. Reduce heat to a simmer and add salt, Aleppo pepper, and sugar. Cook for at least 20 minutes (but up to 40 minutes) until sauce has slightly thickened.
4. Add slivered basil to sauce in last five minutes of simmering.
Note: Make sauce while eggplant is sweating and roasting.

Eggplant
1. Peel and slice eggplant into at least 1/4 inch slices.
2. In a large bowl or colander, create and lightly salt layers of the eggplant slices. Place a plate on top of eggplant slices, weight down with a heavy pan or plate topped with cans. Allow the eggplant to sweat for thirty (30) minutes.
3. Remove eggplant slices, drying each one with a paper towel (do not rinse the eggplant).
4. Pour olive oil on the bottom of three to four baking sheets.
5. Dredge each slice of eggplant into the flour, shaking off any excess. Place each slice on the prepared baking sheet. When all slices have been placed on baking sheets, drizzle/brush more olive oil over each one.
6. In a preheated 450 degree (F) oven, bake eggplant until it has browned on each side (approximately 15 minutes per side). At the first 15 minute mark, turn eggplant over so it becomes evenly browned and cooked.
7. In a 9" x 12" baking dish, begin by spreading a thin layer of marinara on bottom. Top with a layer of eggplant working to completely cover bottom of the pan. Sprinkle eggplant with some grated Parmigano-Reggiano cheese and then another thin layer of marinara. Repeat layering again.
8. After second layer, add a single layer of fresh (sliced) mozzarella. Continue with two more layers of marinara/eggplant/cheese/marinara. Finish top with a final layer of mozzarella and then sprinkle with Parmigano-Reggiano cheese.
9. Reduce oven temperature to 400 degrees. Place baking dish on a baking sheet and bake for 40 to 45 minutes or until top has browned. Note: Check halfway through the baking process to check to see if it is oozing liquid. If this happens, press down on casserole lightly and spoon off any liquid.
10. Let stand 15 to 20 minutes before serving.

Notes: (1) You can make the marinara sauce at least one day ahead. Keep refrigerated. (2) You can assemble the eggplant parmesan early in the day, cover, and chill in the refrigerator. Then bake later in the day. (3) Alternately you can wrap the eggplant parmesan and freeze for later. Be certain to wrap it well with both plastic wrap and aluminum foil. When ready to bake, take out the frozen dish and place in the refrigerator overnight. Then when ready to bake put chilled dish in the oven before turning on the temperature.

As we were driving on two lane highways around Lake Geneva the landscape was dominated by farms. For some unknown reason I have always found these landscapes compelling. Not in the same way I find mountain and ocean views compelling, but in a very different way. When I see farms I cannot help but think of how much we depend (but don't always appreciate) on those that dedicate their lives to and make their livelihood off the land. Buying from roadside farmstands and farmer's markets has become my way of helping to support and sustain these small farms. I have also come to believe fruits and vegetables grown on those family and small farms are the most beautiful and have the best flavor. While I attributed the deliciousness of the roasted eggplant parmesan to the cooking technique of Mario Batali, I probably should be giving the most credit to the farmer who grew the eggplant. Great dishes always begin with great ingredients. And who doesn't want to make great?

Applesauce Spice Cake with Cinnamon Cream Cheese Frosting

In a couple of weeks I will be headed out east for a relatively short 'get my fix' of the ocean and all things east coast. My list of everything I want to do while I am out there is getting longer by the day. In addition to a trip to the Vineyard, up to Maine for some antiquing and a lobster roll (seriously no other lobster rolls compare to the ones in Maine), getting in at least one beach day (weather cooperating), as well as spending time with friends, squeezing in some time to pick a few apples in the orchard in the town I had lived in is also one of the must do things. While it will technically not yet be fall during this trip, in my world the first day of September is considered to be the first day of fall. A necessary mind game to extend the season where both summer and winter intrude and invariably seem to shorten the most beautiful season of all.

The arrival of autumn brings the anticipation of cool crisp days and nights, caramel apples, fires in the fireplace, and landscapes magically transformed with various shades of yellow, orange and red. Next to the bright yellow aspens set against the deep blue Colorado sky, the vivid colors of the trees out east are some of the most 'enough to take your breath away, make you want to cry' stunningly beautiful I have ever seen. The most memorable of all fall east coast landscapes experienced were in the Berkshires and the Hudson Valley last year, both places that would be worth enduring the harsh, cold, snowy winters just to be able to take in the best of what autumn brings. 

There are two things I don't think I will ever tire of: photographing autumn landscapes and making apple desserts. From apple crisps, to apple pies, to apple cake, to baked apples, and now to this applesauce spice cake, the days of cooler temperatures, no humidity and an abundance of apples cannot get here soon enough. 

I have been looking for a spice cake recipe for quite some time now, never quite finding one that 'spoke' to me. But then I came across the applesauce spice cake recipe and before even tasting it, I somehow knew my search was finally and thankfully over. A simple cake made with unsweetened applesauce, flavored with cinnamon, ginger and cloves, and topped with a cinnamon cream cheese frosting was akin to finding the pot of gold at the end of the rainbow. I was trying to wait for a slightly cooler day to make this cake, but my impatience got the best of me (it usually does). The applesauce spice cake with cinnamon cream cheese frosting turned out to be falling into the 'life is too short to wait' category.

Toasted walnuts may be optional for some, but are generally a non-negotiable ingredient for me. Not only do they add some texture and crunch, they add an incredible depth of flavor as well as bring out their delicious oils. In a preheated 350 degree oven, walnuts are transformed after 10 to 12 minutes. Whatever you do, don't think of toasting nuts as an extra step, think of it as an absolutely necessary one.

Whenever a recipe calls for a nine inch round or square pan, I immediately think 'springform' pan. Besides being much easier to remove and serve, an unmolded cake on a platter or cake stand seems to increase its' deliciousness factor tenfold. 

Baked only for 40 to 45 minutes, the applesauce spice cake ends up being perfectly moist. Waiting for it to cool before it is can be frosted will only seem like an eternity.

Another confession. I have never worked with marzipan before. My hypotheses of 'it is 'too' difficult and 'sort of' unnecessary' turned out to proven wrong. Once I figured out how to remove the marzipan from the antique cutter that is. Had I not started out making something simple with marzipan, I may have found the necessary proof that I was actually right all along (sometimes it is good to be wrong about something). If there was ever a reason to remember how to create varying colors from our elementary school art classes, this would be one of them. My marzipan leaves didn't exactly come out 'perfect' (or I should say look like they were made by either Martha Stewart or someone with years of marzipan experience), but I rather liked how 'rustic and authentic' they looked (sometimes imperfection can be better than perfection). 

The cream cheese frosting has a slight hint of cinnamon flavor. Initially I thought the addition of cinnamon was unnecessary. Let's just say I thought wrong and we will leave it at that.

The amount of frosting on this cake is just right.

Although I am not one to commit recipes to memory (too many other things I would rather remember), I have a feeling I will be making this applesauce spice cake with cinnamon cream cheese frosting so often it will become one of those recipes I could make in my sleep. This is one of those cakes made for welcoming in and celebrating the fall. Dense, moist, and just the right amount of spice, it may just be the perfect spice cake.

Already I am trying to figure out how to 'bring' this cake with me when I travel out east. The list of things I want to bring on this trip not surprisingly seems to be getting longer too. Oh well, traveling is an adventure.

Recipe
Applesauce Spice Cake with Cinnamon Cream Cheese Frosting (slight adaptation to Spice Applesauce Cake shared in Gourmet, 2009)

Ingredients
Cake
2 cups all-purpose flour
2 teaspoons baking powder
1/2 teaspoon baking soda
1/2 teaspoon kosher salt
3/4 teaspoon Saigon cinnamon
1/2 teaspoon ground ginger
1/8 teaspoon ground cloves
1/2 cup (1 stick) unsalted butter, room temperature
1 cup light brown sugar, firmly packed
1 teaspoon vanilla
2 large eggs, room temperature
1 1/2 cups unsweetened applesauce
1/2 cup walnuts, toasted and coarsely chopped (optional but highly recommended)

Frosting
8 ounces cream cheese, room temperature
1/2 cup (1 stick) unsalted butter, room temperature
1 1/4 cups confectionary sugar, sifted
1 teaspoon vanilla
1/4 teaspoon Saigon cinnamon

Optional
Marzipan leaves

Directions
1. Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Line a 9 inch springform pan with parchment paper, set aside.
2. Sift together the flour, baking soda, baking powder, salt, cinnamon, ginger and cloves. Set aside.
3. In a standing mixer fitted with a paddle blade, beat butter, brown sugar and vanilla until pale and fluffy (approximately 2-3 minutes).
4. Add eggs in one at a time, beating well after each addition.
5. Beat in applesauce and vanilla.
6. At low speed, gradually mix in flour mixture until fully incorporated.
7. Stir in nuts.
8. Scrape batter into prepared springform pan and bake for 40 to 45 minutes or until pick inserted in center of the cake comes out clean. Allow to cool 15 minutes, run knife around edge of pan to loosen cake, and transfer to plate or platter. Bring cake to room temperature before frosting.
9. For frosting, beat butter and cream cheese in a standing mixer fitted with a paddle blade until smooth. Mix in vanilla and cinnamon. Slowly add sifted confectionary sugar and continue beating until fully incorporated. (Note: This is enough frosting for the top and sides of cake.)
10. Optional: Decorate top of frosted cake with colored marzipan leaves.
Note: Store any leftover cake in the refrigerator. 

Just minutes into the first day of September one of my friends, who also happened to be my doctoral dissertation chair, posted the following on her Facebook page: rabbit, rabbit. My first thought was 'what?'. While she just recently moved into a new home in Colorado, she couldn't possibly be seeing rabbits running around in the dark, or could she? Well maybe she could, but knowing her, there was something meaningful intended by these two words. But what was it? Thank goodness for search engines and the internet as I pretty sure I discovered why she posted those two words, words that take on significance when spoken on the first day of the new month. Or at least there is a pretty powerful superstition associated with them.

If 'rabbit, rabbit' are the first words uttered on the first day of the month, they are thought to bring you (good) luck all month long. They are, in fact, supposed to be the harbinger of good fortune. Rabbits have long been associated with luck of one sort or another (but usually good luck) for more than 2,000 years. But the widespread superstitiousness surrounding rabbits (like a rabbit's foot) emerged sometime in the early 1900s. Not only did President Franklin Delano Roosevelt carry a rabbit's foot, his first spoken words on the first day of the first month were 'rabbit, rabbit'.

If there is any truth around the expression 'an apple a day keeps the doctor away', who knows, there might even be truth around the 'rabbit, rabbit' as the first words spoken on the first day of every month superstition.