Monday, November 16, 2015

Brown Butter Coconut Pie


"To me, empathy and compassion are among the bravest of emotions..and faith, the bravest of convictions." Gerard De Marigny The distance between where I live and Paris, France is a little more than four thousand miles. Yet, in those moments following the tragic events occurring in Paris this past Friday, the distance seemed negligible. Watching the coverage of the chaos and confusion caused by unspeakable, unfathomable attacks, I, like so many others around the world, was overcome with feelings of sadness and heartache. The tragedy in Paris was yet another instance where my faith in and hope for humanity was tested. The ability to recover from dark days such as these seems to require all of us to dig a little deeper into our resiliency reserves. But recover we must. Not just for our own sake, but for the sake of others and the generations to come. And going forward being brave may also mean having the strength and courage to repeatedly take leaps of faith, especially in times of uncertainty and fear. 


Making a pie on Friday may have been a bit serendipitous. The day seemed to call for some comfort food. With my sources of comfort often including things made with chocolate, caramel, or coconut, this pie seemed to have a destiny of its' own.


And this wasn't just any pie. It was a pie often described as being impossible or having magical qualities. The basic concept behind 'impossible pies' is that you mix some ingredients together in a bowl or blender, pour into a pie plate, and bake. The result is a custard-like pie that forms it's own version of a crust.


There are many versions of an impossible Coconut Pie out there. Taking inspiration from one of Nancie McDermott's recipes in her Southern Pies cookbook, I created my own version of this pie. A pie that some attribute to the American South due to the plentiful availability of coconuts coming to New Orleans and Charleston from French Guiana in the late 1800s. And in a bit of irony, this particular pie has sometimes been called a French Coconut Pie.


After assembling all of the ingredients for the pie, I thought 'maybe it should be made with browned butter'. As good as a pie may be made with melted butter, one made with browned butter (beurre noisette) would have to be....great? Because dark, golden brown, rich, nutty browned butter makes savory dishes taste better and elevates everyday desserts to a gourmet level.


The sweetened coconut is added after all of the ingredients are mixed together. But before adding the 2 cups of coconut, I wondered what should a cup of coconut look like or weigh. The 14 ounce package of sweetened coconut said it contained 5 1/3 cups of coconut. In my flour/sugar measuring world, I thought 'this is not possible'. After a quick search, I discovered a cup of sweetened coconut weighs only 2.6 ounces. Which also meant I learned it really was possible to fit 5 1/3 cups of coconut in a 14 ounce bag. 


Once all blended together, the entire mixture goes into a lightly buttered or vegetable oil sprayed pan. Before placing the pie plate onto the lower rack in a 350 degree (F) pre-heated oven, put it on a baking sheet. Your oven will thank you. The original recipe said the baking time ranged from 35-45 minutes. My baking time was closer to 70 minutes. Whether this was due the smaller surface area of the bottom of my 9" pie plate or not, I would suggest you begin checking for doneness at 35 minutes but do not fret if your baking time extends to 70 minutes. The Brown Butter Coconut Pie is done when the top is golden brown and fairly firm throughout.


The Brown Butter Coconut Pie is delicious served either at room temperature or chilled. I haven't decided which one I like best.


I couldn't resist piping on some lightly sweetened whipped cream and toasted coconut. 


The only thing impossible about this Brown Butter Coconut Pie is to stop yourself from eating it. This creamy, crispy, buttery, and coconut-ty pie is hard to resist. Coconut lovers will be beside themselves, non-coconut lovers will become converts.


Even if everyone is expecting a pumpkin pie for Thanksgiving, make this one too. It may turn out to be one of the best unexpected surprises of the meal. Just make sure to cut and hide a slice of this Brown Butter Coconut Pie for yourself to enjoy after all of the dishes are done and put away or the next day. And in those moments as you are savoring this pie, remember nothing is impossible.

Recipe
Brown Butter Coconut Pie (slight adaptation to Nancie McDermott's Amazing Coconut Pie recipe as shared in Southern Pies: A Gracious Plenty of Pie Recipes, From Lemon  Chess to Chocolate Pecan)

Ingredients
1 1/2 cups granulated sugar
1/2 cup all-purpose flour
1/4 teaspoon kosher salt
1/4 teaspoon baking powder
2 cups whole milk
1/2 cup unsalted butter, melted and browned (or just melted), then cooled slightly 
3 eggs, room temperature, well beaten
1 teaspoon vanilla
2 cups (5.2 ounces) shredded, sweetened coconut (recommend Baker's Angel Flake Coconut)
Optional: Garnish with lightly sweetened whipped cream and toasted coconut

Directions
1. Preheat oven to 350 degrees (F). Lightly grease or spray a 9 inch glass or ceramic pie plate with butter or oil. Set aside.
2. In a medium sized bowl, whisk together flour, sugar, salt and baking powder.
3. Add oil, butter, eggs, and vanilla. Stir until well combined.
4. Stir in the coconut.
5. Pour filling in prepared pie plate.
6. Place pie plate on baking sheet and place on lower oven rack. Bake 55-70 minutes or until pie is puffed, golden brown and fairly firm throughout. Note: Baking time will vary based on size of pie plate.  Pie plates with a larger bottom surface will cook faster (e.g., pyrex pie plate), while those with smaller bottom surface will cook longer.
7. Remove from oven and place on cooling rack. Allow to cool to room temperature before serving. Note: Store pie in the refrigerator.
8. Optional: Pipe lightly sweetened whipped cream along edges of pie and sprinkle with toasted coconut.


Fall photos of the Aspens in Rocky Mountain National Park and Breckenridge, Colorado.




Tuesday, November 10, 2015

Caramelized Onion and Mushroom Bread Pudding


"Let us remember that, as much has been given us, much will be expected from us, and that true homage comes from the heart as well as from the lips, and shows itself in deed." Theodore Roosevelt With Thanksgiving a little more than two weeks away, some of us are planning the menu, some of us are still trying to figure out what this year's Thanksgiving will even look like or where we will be celebrating it, but most of us are already beginning to show some pre-turkey day eating restraint to lessen some of the guilt associated with consuming many of our most favorite foods in a single meal. For those us cooking, this feast gives us another opportunity to show our love for and appreciation to our family and friends. The amount of love going into the making of this meal is unparalleled to any other made throughout the year with the possible exception of a birthday dinner. 


As overwhelming as the process of making the Thanksgiving spread can be (don't believe anything you read about how to reduce the stress or how to simplify it unless of course that means ordering the whole meal from, well you know where), as there may be no other meal giving as much to the cook as to those it is being made for. As enamored as I am with the turkey, stuffing, mashed potatoes, and gravy on Thanksgiving, they all seem to taste so much better than when made on other day of the year. It's not like any of us aren't giving any of other meals our best effort, but there are a myriad of reasons why this one tastes so different. Many years ago one of my sorority sister friends shared a Thanksgiving meal story about the year her father's new wife was making the dinner. At the end of what turned out to be a great family dinner, she effusively went on and on about the deliciousness of the stuffing her stepmother had made. She asked her stepmother if she would kindly share her recipe. Honored and humbled by this request, she said would be happy to. As my friend was leaving, her stepmother came out of the kitchen, handed her a box Stovetop Stuffing and said 'here is my recipe'. Managing to keep her jaw from dropping, she thanked her. Although this was not the recipe my most well-traveled, food worldliest of all friends expected, it just may prove my working theory that food made with love on a given day can taste like it was made by any of the best chefs at any of the best restaurants in the world. 


If ever there was a reason to bring more 'bread' to the table on Thanksgiving, this Caramelized Onion and Mushroom Bread Pudding is it. So plan on satisfying your love of bread with heaping portions of both your beloved stuffing (however it's made) and this sumptuous, exquisite Caramelized Onion and Mushroom Bread Pudding. Anyone who said man cannot live on bread alone never had this bread pudding. For those you not making the Thanksgiving dinner this year, bring this dish as your contribution. Just be warned it has the possibility of upstaging all of the other sides on the Thanksgiving table.


Sweet onions, mushrooms, and garlic. The simplest of ingredients combined with bread, eggs, milk, heavy cream, seasonings, and some Italian Fontina Cheese give way to one of the most utterly satisfying savoriest of all bread puddings. They completely redefine what comfort food was intended to be. If there is one new savory recipe you are adding to your annual holiday meal, let it be this one. 


The original recipe called for eight ounces of thinly sliced mushrooms. If there was one significant tweak I would make to this dish, it would be to increase the amount of mushrooms to at least twelve ounces. The intense, meat-like flavor of the Baby Bella mushrooms (the Italian portobello mushroom) were the perfect choice for this savory bread pudding. 


The reward for the time it takes to caramelize onions is the sweet umami they bring to the dish. There are few simple things to keep in mind in order to best coax out the onion's flavor. To prevent them from drying out or burning, slices should be approximately 1/8" thick (or should I say thin?). Use a 2-1 oil to butter ratio. The butter will add flavor, while the oil's higher smoking point will prevent the onions from burning. In order to get the sugars in the onions to caramelize, set and keep your heat setting to medium-low. After 35-45 minutes, your caramelized onions will be soft and have a beautiful deep golden brown color. 


Fresh bread or one day old bread? The answer is either one will work. There was still enough moisture left in my day old baguette as I had kept it in its' paper sleeve. As a side note, most baguettes weigh more than 8-10 ounces. In order to ensure your bread pudding has a fluffy, creamy texture make sure you don't use more bread than needed.


In a large bowl, the heavy cream, whole milk, eggs, kosher salt, pepper, and sage are whisked together. After adding and stirring in the bread, cubes of Italian Fontina cheese, and caramelized onions/mushrooms, the entire mixture is transferred into a buttered 9"x12" baking dish. Using a spatula, press the bread down and allow the bread pudding mixture to sit for 15-30 minutes or until the bread has absorbed most of the liquid.


In a preheated 350 degree (F) oven, the Caramelized Onion and Mushroom Bread Pudding bakes for 35-40 minutes (although oven variability could increase baking time to 45 minutes). When the bread is crisp, the cheese is oozing, and the custard is set, the pudding is done. Allowing the pudding to rest for up to 20 minutes after being removed from the oven aids in further setting its' custardy texture. 


The Caramelized Onion and Mushroom Bread Pudding has been described as a dish reminiscent of the flavors of French Onion Soup. However, the use of the Italian Fontina Cheese and its' luscious custard texture make it an incredibly rich, mouth-watering, heavenly dish. Destined to be paired with either turkey or chicken (it's almost to rich for beef), it is the side begging to be given the top billing. Of all of the sides you may be serving for Thanksgiving, this is the going to be one where both non-turkey and turkey eaters will leave the holiday table equally delirious. After one bite, there won't be any doubt how much love you have for all of those sitting around your table. No doubt at all. 

Recipe
Caramelized Onion and Mushroom Bread Pudding (slight adaptation to The Beekman Brothers Savory Bread Pudding recipe as shared in "The Beekman 1802 Heirloom Vegetable Cookbook")
Serves 8

Ingredients
2 Tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil
1 Tablespoon unsalted butter, plus more for the baking dish
3 large sweet onions (such as Vidalia or Maui), thinly sliced (no thicker than 1/8"). Yield will be approximately about 6 cups.
8-12 ounces Baby Bella mushrooms, thinly sliced (strongly recommend using 12 ounces)
2 garlic cloves, minced
3 large eggs
2 cups whole milk
1 cup heavy whipping cream
1 1/2 teaspoons kosher salt
1/2 teaspoon black pepper
1/2 teaspoon crumbled dried sage
1 fresh or day old baguette (10 ounces), sliced lengthwise, then cut into 1 inch cubes (Note: Most baguettes weigh more than 10 ounces.)
8 ounces Italian Fontina Cheese, cut into 1/2 inch cubes (recommend BelGioioso Fontina Cheese)

Directions
1. In a large, deep skillet, heat extra-virgin olive oil and butter over medium-low heat. Add onions and cook until onions are a deep golden color and soft (approximately 35-45 minutes). Stir onions occasionally. 
2. Add mushrooms and garlic and cook for 5-7 minutes or until mushrooms are tender.  Remove from heat and set aside.
3. Preheat oven to 350 degrees (F). Butter a 9"x13" baking dish. Set aside.
4. In a large bowl, whisk together milk, whipping cream, eggs, salt, pepper, and sage. Add the bread, onion/mushroom/garlic mixture, and Fontina cheese. Stir to combine.
5. Pour mixture into prepared baking dish. Press bread down into the liquid and allow to sit for 15-30 minutes or until the bread has absorbed most of the liquid.
6. Bake for 35-40 minutes, or until top is light brown, bread is crisp and the custard is set.
7. Allow to rest for at least 20 minutes before serving. Serve hot or at room temperature.


Friday, November 6, 2015

Overnight Almond, Apple, and Cranberry Oatmeal


There was a time when my daily breakfast consisted only of a super-sized diet soda. I had been one of a handful of people left in the universe who didn't get their morning caffeine fix from coffee (yikes, this is crazy I know). While I have not yet given up my addiction to diet soda, a portal to the coffee world has recently opened for me. That is, if an espresso latte ramped up with a sweet nutty coconut almond milk base, a touch of half and half, and some cinnamon made at my local coffeehouse qualifies as 'coffee' to those of you hardcore 'only take it black' coffee drinkers. Whether it does or not, it has become newest obsession.

A couple months back I made a concerted effort to eat more oatmeal for breakfast. After almost three weeks of going on the 'be a little more health conscious, eat more oatmeal' binge, I sort of got burned out. Eating a bowl of hot oatmeal five days a week may have been a bit too much even for my creature of habit food habits. Yet, coinciding with this self-imposed monotony, the season of fresh blueberries was coming to an end. The fruit I was using to add some sweetness to the oatmeal because I was trying to keep it on the healthier side. 


I had been selectively flipping back and forth between the Cooking Channel (my favorite) and the Food Network (used to be my favorite) last weekend when I heard The Pioneer Woman talk about her obsession with overnight oatmeal. A cold oatmeal studded with raisins and apples, marinated overnight in a mixture of milk, half-and-half, brown sugar and vanilla, and as if that wasn't enough, it had a brĂ»lĂ©ed finish. Probably not the most health conscious way to eat oatmeal, but seriously, I wondered if this might be a wicked way to have oatmeal return to my life. Although maybe this version might require me to exercise some moderation. Maybe.


Raisins were Ree Drummond's dried fruit of choice. Dried cranberries were mine. To counterbalance the guilt over the addition of brown sugar in this oatmeal, I decided to add almonds. Did you know compared to all other nuts, almonds are packed with the most nutrients and have the longest list of health benefits? You probably did, however, I have a reason for reminding you of that bit of food trivia. You will figure what that is shortly.


The Granny Smith apple was the perfect apple option. Cut into a small dice, it brings the right amount of tartness and crunch to this oatmeal.


After all of the ingredients are mixed together in a medium sized bowl, covered, and placed in the refrigerator, the only thing left to do was wait. I added in the almonds with all of the other ingredients. To ensure they stay as crunchy as possible, it would be better to add them to the Overnight Almond, Apple and Cranberry Oatmeal right before you are ready to serve it.


If you do not have a kitchen torch, you can always brĂ»lĂ©e the oatmeal in a broiler (it only takes minutes for the sugar to melt and caramelize in a broiler, but you will need to watch it carefully). If you make creme brĂ»lĂ©e or have made/wanted to make the s'mores fudge tart, your investment of a thirty dollar kitchen torch will more than itself pay off. 

Any trepidation I had over not liking the taste of cold oatmeal completely dissipated after the first bite. If I told you it reminded me somewhat of a caramel apple, you might think it too sweet for your palate or for breakfast. So I won't tell you that because I want you to make it as it is nothing like any bowl of oatmeal you have ever had. When you are eating this bowl of deliciousness, I want you to focus more on the fact you are eating oatmeal, apples, and almonds (does it get any healthier?) than on worrying there is also some brown sugar and half-and-half (everything in moderation, right?). And let's not forget, the dried cranberries fall somewhere on good for you scale.

I discovered Bon Appétit's great article on overnight oatmeal ("Make Overnight Oats That Actually Taste Good by Avoiding These Common Mistakes") two days after making this version of overnight oatmeal. There are some aspects of this recipe not consistent with their advice (e.g., the liquid to oatmeal ratio), however, in spite of this, the creaminess and texture of the oatmeal was perfect.

Not only is this Overnight Almond, Apple, and Cranberry Oatmeal ideal for breakfast, it would also be a great option for either lunch or dinner. I happen to be one of those who thinks breakfast, like caffeine, should be a twenty-four a day option. 

Recipe
Overnight Almond, Apple, and Cranberry Oatmeal (slight adaptations to Ree Drummond's Overnight Oatmeal recipe)
Serves 2 (generously)

Ingredients
1 generous cup old-fashioned oats (recommend Quaker Old-Fashioned Oats)
3/4 cup whole milk (could also use almond milk or coconut almond milk)
1/2 cup half-and-half
1/4 generous cup of dried cranberries (can also use raisins or dried blueberries)
1/4 generous cup of almonds
2 packed Tablespoons light brown sugar
1-2 teaspoons vanilla
Pinch of kosher salt
1 small or half of a large Granny Smith Apple, diced
2-3 Tablespoons granulated sugar

Directions
1. In a medium sized bowl, mix together the old-fashioned oats, milk, half-and-half, dried cranberries, brown sugar, vanilla, salt, and diced apple. Cover and refrigerate overnight. Note: Almonds can be added in after the mixture has refrigerated overnight to prevent them from softening.
2. Stir mixture. If too thick add additional milk or half-and-half (mine was just the right consistency and no additional liquid was added).
3. Divide mixture between two bowls.
4. Sprinkle each with 1 - 1 1/2 Tablespoons of granulated sugar. Using a kitchen torch, brown lightly.
5. Serve immediately.
Note: This recipe can easily be doubled or tripled.

Wednesday, November 4, 2015

Blue Cheese Romaine Salad w/ Lemon Vinaigrette


Maybe it's because we have so much Halloween candy leftover I felt compelled to make something a little healthier. Who knew Mother Nature would be playing a horrible trick on the trick-or-treaters when I bought boxes of King Sized Kit Kats, Skittles, and Swedish Fish. Not even the allure of acquiring massive amounts of candy seemed to be enough of an enticement for costumed munchkins to want to brave the cold, windy, rainy weather on Saturday. In what is probably a bit of revisionist history, I remember spending hours walking through the neighborhood on the quest to fill up our pillowcase bags with as much penny candy as possible. Regardless of how numb our little fingers and toes got or how drenched we became, wicked weather would not get in the way of our unflinching determination. No matter what costume we were wearing, we took pride in being 'candy sluts' for the day.


"To remember a successful salad is generally to remember a successful dinner; at all events, the perfect dinner necessarily includes the perfect salad." George Ellwanger If there was ever a salad worthy of being put in the elusive category of perfect, the Blue Cheese Romaine Salad with Lemon Vinaigrette stands a really good chance of gaining entry. From the Maytag Blue Cheese to the sautĂ©ed pine nuts to the lemon vinaigrette, you are reminded why not all salads are created equal. 

I am often guilty of paying more attention to the main course, sides, and dessert than I do to the salad, sometimes forgetting first impressions really do matter. And if there were ever a salad to leave a lasting impression, it would be this Blue Cheese Romaine Salad w/ Lemon Vinaigrette. 


With Romaine being one of the lettuces available year round, this salad has the potential of being one you could make year round. 


What is not to love about a salad that looks deceivingly simple yet delivers so many different flavor notes? The full bodied Maytag Blue Cheese brings a savoriness and saltiness while the rich buttery taste of sautéed the pine nuts compliment the romaine and granny smith apples perfectly. This could be one of the best, most impressive four ingredient salads you will serve to your family and friends.


I prefer to sautĂ© my pine nuts, although you could also bake them on a small sheet pan in a pre-heated 350 degree (F) oven for 4-6 minutes (stirring at least once). However considering pine nuts can be a bit on the expensive side, I feel a need to hover over them. While not the worst thing in the world, but burnt pine nuts are inedible. 

With very few exceptions I don't buy bottled dressings, especially since making them is so easy. This Lemon Vinaigrette follows the 3-1 extra-virgin olive oil to lemon juice ratio. Brown sugar replaces the more typical dijon mustard. The result was a smoother, less tart dressing.


Made in either a food processor or a blender, this is one of those 'you want to lick the bowl' kind of dressings because you do not want a drop to go to waste. Seriously, there are no bottled dressings coming close to its' deliciousness. Make sure you use a high quality extra-virgin olive when making a salad dressing. For the price ($10.00) and flavor, Sur la table's olive oil is a great option. 


Some of a salad's most flavorful elements often fall to the bottom of platter when tossed. The only parts of this salad needing to be dressed are the apples and romaine lettuce. So toss them first and then top the salad with the crumbled blue cheese and sautéed pine nuts. It's not just about taste, it's also about presentation (I have been permanently brainwashed by the likes of Martha Steward and Ina Garten).


Pair this Blue Cheese Romaine Salad with Lemon Vinaigrette with a roast chicken, grilled fish, or a great steak. Keep your sides to a minimum (think less is more) and you have the makings of an amazing meal. It would be shame, maybe almost a crime, for there to be too many 'side' distractions to this salad. 


Instead of Granny Smith Apples you could also use Asian or Red Anjou Pears in this salad. But when choosing a blue cheese, buy it in a chunk rather than in the pre-crumbled container. For salads, I am big fan of the made in Iowa Maytag Blue Cheese. However, any number of artisanal blue cheeses out there would work well in this salad (just don't buy a container of those blue cheese crumbles, okay?).

Next time you are planning to make a salad for a dinner party, think of making a salad having the ability to make both great first and lasting impressions. Think of this Blue Cheese Romaine Salad w/ Lemon Vinaigrette. You may never buy a store-bought dressing again. 

Recipe
Blue Cheese Romaine Salad w/ Lemon Vinaigrette (slight adaptation to the Blue Cheese Romaine Salad from Taste of Home Entertaining, Winter 2005)

Ingredients
Dressing
1/3 cup fresh squeezed lemon juice (from one large lemon)
1 Tablespoon light brown sugar
1 garlic clove, peeled
1/4 teaspoon kosher salt
1/8 teaspoon black pepper
1/2 cup extra-virgin olive oil

Salad
1/2 cup pine nuts
1 Tablespoons unsalted butter
6 cups torn romaine (from approximately 3 stalks of romaine)
4 ounces blue cheese, crumbled (recommend Maytag Blue Cheese)
1-2 medium Granny Smith Apples, sliced (alternately could use sliced Asian or Red Anjou pears)

Directions
1. In a small heavy bottomed sautĂ© pan, melt butter over medium-low heat. Add pine nuts. Stir frequently until pine nuts have turned golden brown. Remove pan from heat. Transfer pine nuts to a dish and set aside to cool.
2. In a food processor or blender, combine lemon juice, brown sugar, garlic, salt and pepper. Process until smooth. Gradually add oil in a steady stream until well blended. Pour dressing into a sauce boat and set aside.
3. In a large serving bowl, layer romaine on bottom followed by sliced granny smith apples. Pour dressing over romaine and apples and toss until well coated.
4. Top tossed salad with crumbled blue cheese and golden pine nuts. Serve immediately.