Wednesday, June 8, 2016

Sheila's Rhubarb Pie


For the past couple of weeks, my real life got in the way of my blog life. Somehow between running and traveling I didn't seem to have the time to make anything new or blog worthy. Before going on this three week pre-summer hiatus I considered putting together a Memorial Day menu using some of my favorite holiday cook-out friendly recipes already posted to the blog. You know, like in the spirit of those mid-season reruns we either love or hate. However, I didn't even have the time to put that together. So I am hoping you will love this idea when I put together a Fourth of July holiday weekend posting later this month.

Thomas Wolfe once wrote 'you can't go back home to places in the country....back home to the old forms and systems of things...back home to the escapes to Time and Memory'. Apparently he never spent any time in the east coast town I had the good fortune to call home for a couple of years. A place I feel more connected to than any other place I have lived or visited (the mountains of Colorado are a close second). For five 'moving way too fast' days I tried to savor and take in as much of this 'so bucolic you almost want to cry town' as I could. From walking the beach at the ocean, to running on two lane highways, to hiking in the woods, to spending time with friends, to making s'mores over a crackling fire, to capturing as many of my favorite views with my camera, my body and soul transcended to a place of pure bliss.


Like many towns out east, handcrafted, standing the test of time stone fences form the boundaries between properties. Sheila and her family lived on the west side of 'my' stone fence. More than a neighbor, she become one of my most endeared friends. And unbeknownst to her, I often felt as if was/am an extended member of their family. Maybe that's because Sheila has a way of making you feel incredibly welcomed and at ease in her home. As luck would have it, when I had stopped by to drop off some cookies and ice cream for her children she was making a Rhubarb Pie. Having never made or even tasted a rhubarb pie before (which is crazy), I was beside myself when she offered to cut some of the rhubarb out of her garden for me before I returned back to the midwest. Her rhubarb and the fresh eggs I picked up on the roadside were the 'best ever' souvenirs I brought back this time. And they both traveled well. Although I can't help but wonder if the bundle of cellophane wrapped rhubarb was why the TSA decided to inspect my luggage this time. 



Rhubarb season here in the midwest seems to be nearing its' end, but out east it was just coming into season. Between seeing the landscape filled with the most glorious Rhododendrons and having access to a garden of rhubarb, I timed my 'back home' trip perfectly.


The rhubarb is cut into one inch pieces. Sheila's handwritten family recipe called for 4 cups of rhubarb but I could have swore Sheila cut 8 cups of rhubarb for the pie I watched her make. So my first attempt at Sheila's Rhubarb Pie was made with 8 cups of rhubarb. If she reads this post, she will know whether or not I was really paying attention or was just being a rhubarb glutton making this pie.


The batter for the pie is made with three large eggs, 1 1/2 cups of granulated sugar, 3 (but I used 4) tablespoons of all-purpose flour, freshly grated nutmeg, and a pinch of kosher salt. Some rhubarb pie recipes call for the use of cinnamon, however, the grated nutmeg compliments the sweetness-tartness of the baked rhubarb perfectly.

Once the batter ingredients are mixed together, the cut rhubarb is added. That's it. The assembly of this pie could not be easier.


If you don't want to make your own all-butter pie crust (I did because, well, just because), the boxed Pillsbury refrigerated pie crusts work perfectly. After lining a nine inch pie dish with dough, the rhubarb filling is poured in.


Before topping the pie with the lattice crust style of your choice, dot the top of the batter with two tablespoons of butter. This pie is meant to look 'refined rustic', however, feel free to fancy finish the edge of the pie!


Finish the pie crust with an egg wash. Normally I use a small egg and some milk to make the wash, but I learned a new egg wash trick from Sheila. She made the egg wash in the bowl used to mix together the pie filling! So don't be quick to put that bowl in the dishwasher or sink! Or you can do what I did and just scrape any of that remaining pie filling into your egg and milk mixture.


In a preheated 450 degree (F) oven the pie bakes for 15 minutes. Without removing the pie from the oven, oven temperature is reduced to 350 degrees (F). My baking time at that temperature was somewhere between 60 and 70 minutes. And it varied significantly from recommended 30 minutes on the handwritten recipe. Whether this was because I used a ceramic pie dish instead of a glass pie dish or whether it was because the amount of rhubarb increased from 4 to 8 cups or whether it was a combination of both, the increased baking time resulted in the most tender rhubarb and a perfectly set filling.

To ensure the crust did not burn, I covered the pie with aluminum foil once the crust browned. Testing a rhubarb pie for doneness is a little tricky, but not difficult (certainly not a rhubarb pie deal breaker). Using a toothpick or cake tester, insert into a piece of rhubarb. You want it to feel tender. To check the filling consistency, dip the end of a spoon into the pie. It should adhere to the spoon versus run off. However, the pie filling will continue to firm up further as the pie cools.

Honestly I never knew how incredibly delicious a Rhubarb Pie was. It is so delicious I think I too need to figure out a way to plant rhubarb somewhere in my more shady than sunny yard. But, as they say, if there is a will, there will be a way. Or maybe I have yet another reason to go back to this magical town next June!

The balanced sweet tart flavor of Sheila's Rhubarb Pie is addictive. Next to a Blueberry Pie, I am thinking this Rhubarb Pie may be my close second favorite. If you have never had or made one before, you have been missing out! Seriously. And if by chance you have never had a great Rhubarb Pie, well now you have the recipe for one.

It is really, really, really important that you allow the pie to cool completely before cutting it as the filling needs some time to set up. While the pie all on its' own is over the top insanely good, served with some vanilla ice cream (my personal favorite), half and half or cream will send you to a state of pie bliss.

There is still time left to find fresh rhubarb at the farmer's markets or grocery store. And probably still time to harvest from the gardens of those of you who are already in the know about rhubarb's sweet-tart deliciousness. If you are lucky enough to have a friend with rhubarb in their garden, maybe they will generously part with some of their harvest.

Fortunately for me, I came back to this home with more than memories from my trip out east. It is somehow reassuring to know that there are still more 'firsts' left to experience in this lifetime.

Sheila's Rhubarb Pie

Ingredients
Dough (Recipe for the All-Butter Pie Crust adapted from Yossy Arefi's Sweeter off the Vine: Fruit Desserts for Every Season cookbook)
2 2/3 cups all-purpose flour
1 teaspoon kosher salt
10 Tablespoons unsalted butter
8 Tablespoons ice cold water
1 Tablespoon apple cider vinegar

NOTE: In lieu of making a homemade pie crust, recommend using the boxed Pillsbury pie crusts found in the refrigerator section of most grocery stores.

Pie
1 1/2 cups granulated sugar
4 Tablespoons all-purpose flour (or could use quick cooking tapioca)
1/2 - 3/4 teaspoon nutmeg
3 large eggs, lightly beaten
8 cups of rhubarb, cut into 1 inch pieces
2 Tablespoons unsalted butter, cut into pieces
pinch of kosher salt
Egg wash (One small egg and mixed with water, milk or cream and any of the remaining filling adhering to the mixing bowl)
Sanding sugar for finishing, optional
Vanilla Ice Cream for serving

Directions
Dough
1. In a food processor, add flour and salt. Pulse several times to blend.
2. Add butter and process until coarse crumbs form, approximately 10-15 seconds.
3. Mix together ice cold water and apple cider vinegar.
4. With food processor running, slow add water/vinegar mixture in a steady stream through the feed tube. Pulse until the dough holds together. If still too crumbly, add an additional tablespoon of ice water. Dough should not be wet or sticky. Test finished dough by squeezing a small amount of dough together to see if it holds shape.
5. Divide dough in half. Shape into a disk and wrap dough in plastic wrap. Chill for at least 2 hours or overnight.
6. Roll out dough on a lightly floured surface.

Pie
1. Preheat oven to 450 degrees (F).
2. Line a 9 inch pie pan with dough. Add filling. Top filling with the 2 Tablespoons of butter. 
3. Use remaining dough to make a lattice top for the pie. Using a fork, crimp edge of pie to seal. 
4. Brush pie crust with egg wash. Sprinkle with sanding sugar (optional).
5. Place pie on a sheet pan and bake for 15 minutes at 450 degrees (F).
6. Reduce oven temperature to 350 degrees (F) and continue baking for 60-70 minutes or until juices appear thickened and rhubarb is tender. If crust is getting too browned cover with aluminum foil. Remove from oven. Allow to cool several hours before serving. Note: As pie cools to room temperature, the filling will further thicken.
7. Serve at room temperature with vanilla ice cream. (Leftover Rhubarb Pie can be covered and stored in the refrigerator. Warm cut slices in the microwave before serving.)

Notes: I made the following baking time changes to Sheila's Rhubarb Pie recipe: (1) Increased baking time at 450 degrees (F) from 10 minutes to 15 minutes and increased baking time at 350 degrees (F) from 50 to 60 minutes. (2) Other than adding a pinch of salt in the pie batter and increasing the amount of flour in the pie batter from 3 T to 4 T and increasing the amount of rhubarb from 4 cups to 8 cups, all other ingredient amounts remained the same.

Roaming and relaxing farm animals at Harmony Home Farm, Little Compton, Rhode Island


Wednesday, May 18, 2016

Mint Mojitos


"It is good to have an end to journey toward; but it is the journey that matters, in the end." (Ernest Hemingway) In less than two weeks I am running a 10 mile race. A 'race' distance I had not run in almost fifteen years. After both a much too long hiatus from running (14 years to be exact) and then a year ago this month having a stress fracture in my right leg (with an recovery period that seemed endless), I thought my longest running distances would never be more than 6 miles, 6.2 to be exact. But a combination of factors, including the support and encouragement of my running group friends, caused my running goals to shift. In the past month I have run the distance of 10 miles twice, again returning to the world of double digit runs. The first 10 miler felt like a struggle which had me questioning how realistic my revised running goals actually were. However, the second 10 mile run not only gave me some of the confidence I so desperately needed, but it provided me with the reassurance I could do 'whatever it was I made up my mind to do'. Like some other runners, running for me is as much of a 'head game' as it is a test of physical strength and endurance. On that first 10 mile attempt, I told my small group to go ahead without me at the four and a half mile mark as I wasn't exactly certain my 'head' was in a good place. So much to the worry of some, I went rogue. Meaning I didn't stay on the course we were all supposed to follow. This was less about being fiercely independent (which I can be at times), but more about trying to (re)gain some mental focus (more on my pace and breathing, less on how much further ahead or faster my running partners were). With the support of my running group coach, I went rogue again for the second ten miler. In taking the self-imposed competitiveness with others out of the picture, I actually ran stronger and faster (well faster is a relative term). As much as I have loved and benefitted from the camaraderie of running with a group, when I am pushing myself further than I had gone before or think I am even capable, some time running alone seems to help me keep my 'head in the game'. Who knows what my performance will be on the day of this upcoming 10 mile race as many factors (weather being the biggest) will affect it. However, I have decided I have only one simple goal for this race: to finish feeling happy. Because the return to running was in part to re-experience the joy running had brought to my life. Although I will be downright euphoric if chocolate milk is available on the other side of the finish line. A more potent celebratory drink will have to wait until later in the day.

Not listed in any order of preference, some of my favorite 'alcoholic' beverages are martinis, margaritas, and mojitos. I apparently have an affinity for cocktails beginning with the letter "M" (with the exception of manhattans, intentionally excluded from this list for reasons having nothing to do with their taste but rather a still unforgotten serious state of inebriation decades ago). Fortunately one of Cuba's oldest cocktails was created and exported long before the political wall went up between the US and Cuba. However, it was Ernest Hemingway who was responsible for popularizing the mojito. Made with only a handful of ingredients, has become a signature staple cocktail in both Latin and American cuisine. Lime, mint, sugar, rum (preferably a clear, white and/or silver rum), and ice combine to create a cocktail where its' sweetness is complimented by refreshing citrus and mint. Not a fan of the mojito? Well maybe it's because the ones you had were made by bartenders pretending to be mixologists, who unbeknownst to you, substituted splenda for sugar or the Italian liqueur BrancaMenta for the mint or even over muddled it. All because it wasn't one of their most favorite drinks to make. In other words, please give making your own 'fresh' mojito a try before writing it off.


Like most libations there are a multitude of variations all claiming to be the 'one', the 'best', the most 'authentic'. After looking at dozens and dozens of mojito recipes, there seemed to be most consensus on the use of a clear/white/silver rum; the use of fresh mint leaves; and, the use of freshly squeezed lime juice. When it came to whether to use sugar or a simple syrup made with sugar, there seemed to be less agreement. Just the thought of the mere possibility of a grainy mojito had me jumping on the simple syrup bandwagon. The highly carbonated 'waters' used in the mojito ranged from mineral water, to sparkling water, to seltzer water, to club soda. Club soda seemed to the hands down favorite. I used Schweppes, although someone did a carbonated water and cocktail test and identified "Q" club soda as the 'best' albeit rather on the relatively pricey side, as far as club soda prices go. So until I someday find and splurge on a bottle of "Q" club soda, I am sticking with Schweppes.


Last, but not least, was the process of making the mojito, of which there seems to be two camps, Shaken and Muddled. Not surprisingly each camp claims their version doesn't over mint the taste of the mojito. This version goes with the sexier, gently muddled approach.


If you were looking for reasons to plant highly invasive mint in your garden, put mojitos on the top of this list. Depending on the day of the week, the availability of the fresh mint found in grocery stores can be sometimes slim to none or even worse, has an appearance you wouldn't even want to mask in a pesto. One should be able to make mojitos on a whim or whenever you have a taste for them! So on your next trip to the farmer's market, garden center, or roadside herb stand and pick up a few mint plants. In a relatively short period of time, you will never need to deny yourself or your friends a mojito on a moments notice again. If you love a great mojito, you won't care too much about your mint's invasive tendencies. Especially after you have had one or two of them.

An ounce of simple syrup (recipe below) and 6-8 fresh mint leaves are gently muddled together. Muddling too hard will "break the little capillaries in the mint leaf and release bitter chlorophyll, essentially ruining your drink". So find another way to take out any of your aggressions and never ever over muddle your mint. Although I am certain there are some aggressive muddlers out there who would disagree. (If your mint leaves are on the large size, use 6. If they are small to medium or a combination of S/M/L, use 8. Once you taste it, you can make your personal preference adjustments.)


After adding a generous handful of ice cubes (crushed ice is optional), pour in two ounces of white rum. Next comes two ounces of club soda, followed by one ounce of freshly squeezed lime juice. After a gentle stir to combine, top with a sprig of fresh mint and wedge/slice of lime. Then sit back and enjoy the spell this refreshing cocktail will have on you.


I know, this sounds like a cocktail made with a lot of precision. Maybe it is. But precision, as in many things, is one of the factors determining whether something is either good or great. And this Mint Mojito is great, really great. How great? Well so great that even those of you on the 'take it or leave it' mojito fence might be tempted to start singing the refreshing Mint Mojitos praises, especially on a hot summer day. 

Recipe
Mint Mojitos (inspired by multiple sources)

Ingredients
1 ounce simple syrup
2 ounces white rum
2 ounces club soda (recommend Schweppes)
1 ounce freshly squeezed lime juice
6-8 mint leaves
Fresh lime wedge/slice for garnishing
Spring of mint for garnishing
Ice cubes or crushed ice

Note: To make simple syrup, bring one cup of water and one cup of granulated sugar to a boil over medium-high heat. The mixture should look clear with no trace of sugar granules. Remove from heat and allow to cool. Store reserved simple syrup in the refrigerator in a covered jar.

Directions
1. Put 6-8 mint leaves in a glass. Add simple syrup and lightly muddle.
2. Add ice, white rum, and club soda.
3. Top with lime juice. Stir gently.
4. Finish with a fresh sprig of mint and lime wedge/slice.
5. Serve immediately and enjoy.

Westport, Massachusetts

Monday, May 16, 2016

Marbled Cheesecake Brownies


"You don't understand what I mean now, but someday you will: the only trick of friendship, I think, is to find people who are better than you are-not smarter, not cooler, but kinder, and more generous, and more forgiving-and then to appreciate them for what they can teach you, and to try to listen to them when they tell you something about yourself, no matter how bad-or good-it might be, and to trust them, which is the hardest thing of all. But the best, as well." (excerpt from "A Little Life" by Hanya Yanagihara). Back in college and subsequently in graduate school, I used a yellow highlighter when I came across something in a book I felt had significance. Which early on meant pages upon pages were drenched in yellow. Nowadays I simply bend the corners of only those pages containing passages striking a chord, ones often lingering with me for days. Sometimes the elegance or profoundness of the author's words will cause me to gasp or even weep. When I came across the aforementioned quote from the book I am currently reading, it felt as if I was experiencing something akin to part epiphany, to part validation. I couldn't help but think the (unspoken) concept of a quality, enduring friendship, one grounded in kindness, generosity, and forgiveness, was held reciprocally between myself and my closest, most trusted friends. On some levels it explained what has drawn me to some of the people, some very different from me, who have crossed and remained in my life's path. At the same time, I gained some insight into some of those unbalanced relationships/friendships causing me the most angst, the ones I should have walked away from a long time ago. All because of a lack of or significant change in shared give and take reciprocity. Maybe like people, books also come into your life for a reason. While there are takeaways from almost every book I read, as of recent, none has resonated more with me. Thank you for letting me share my reflections with you. To return this kindness, I want to share with you the amazing, potentially last meal worthy, brownie recipe I recently found.


Years ago I came across a recipe for Marbled Cheesecake Brownies, however, in typical fashion I couldn't remember if that recipe was from a cookbook, cooking magazine, or one I cut out the newspaper. What all this means is that I either had to spend a countless number of days going through my cookbook, cooking magazine, and recipe collections or spend a finite number of hours doing some on-line Marbled Cheesecake Brownies research. Although I have a fair amount of discretionary time in my life, I went with least time intensive option. The recipe rating system on Epicurious has a fair degree of reliability, however, judging recipes posted elsewhere requires you to make inferences about their potential deliciousness based on recipe source, ingredient proportions, recipe directions, and, sometimes even the accompanying photo of the finished product. Ultimately I decided to use King Arthur Flour's Chocolate Cheesecake recipe, however, after looking at the directions I knew I would make some changes to them based on my years of brownie and cheesecake making experience.


Cheesecakes were made in Rome as far back as 1 A.D., however, the cream cheese version of the cheesecake we have all grown to love originated centuries later in New York in 1929. Brownies have a much shorter, yet slightly conflictual history with both Boston (MA) and Bangor (ME) staking their claims for its' invention in 1906 and 1907 respectively. Although there seems to be agreement that brownies were an east coast invention. Combining the tangy, rich creaminess of a cheesecake with dense, fudgy rich chocolate brownies was destined to be a marriage made in dessert heaven. Whoever conceptualized Marbled Cheesecake Brownies (aka Swirled Cheesecake Brownies, Cream Cheese Brownies, Chocolate Cheesecake Brownies) was a genius. Currently an unknown (or rather yet to be claimed) originator, but nonetheless a genius. Which means there is still time for anyone with a really good, believable (possibly verifiable) story to come forward and take credit for conceiving these incredibly delicious, decadent brownies.

Since its' inception the brownie has gone from its' early chocolatey, cake-like version to a confection having a myriad of multi-ingredient variations. These Marbled Cheesecake Brownies may be one of the better, possibly the best variation of all. Although a brownie slathered in a German Chocolate Frosting could come in a close second.

Knowing that a brownie batter has a tendency to thicken as it cools, I decided it made the best culinary sense to begin by making the cheesecake batter. After creaming the room temperature cream cheese in a standing mixer with a whisk attachment, the granulated sugar was added until well incorporated. The eggs were added in one at a time, scraping the bowl with a spatula between additions to ensure there were no clumps of cream cheese. After blending in the vanilla and heavy cream, the final ingredient added was the all-purpose flour. The resulting mixture was creamy, light, and fluffy.


The chocolate flavor of the brownies comes from both Dutch Process Cocoa and (bittersweet) chocolate chips. While these brownies are completely assembled in a pot, care needs to be taken to ensure the mixture isn't too hot before the eggs are incorporated (bits of scrambled eggs in brownies aren't exactly the best of combinations). After all of the ingredients are incorporated, you will end up with a very thick brownie batter.




Half of the brownie batter is poured into the prepared baking pan and smoothed with an offset spatula before the cream cheese layer is added. The remaining brownie batter is dropped in dollops on top of the cream cheese layer. I dropped large dollops, however, the next time making smaller dollops would make the swirling process a little easier. To swirl the cheesecake layer with the top brownie layer use either a fork or knife (I used a fork) making sure you don't allow your utensil of choice to go down to the bottom brownie layer. How much of the cheesecake shows on top depends on how much you swirl. The less the swirl, the larger the streaks of cream cheese. Conversely the more you swirl the less cream cheese streaks (I swirled more but still had a discernible cheesecake layer when the brownies were cut. Notes: Lining your baking pan with parchment pan will make the removal and ultimate cutting of these brownies effortless. In my world baking brownies in a metal pan versus a glass pan is always preferable. 


The brownies are baked in a preheated 350 degree (F) oven for 45-50 minutes. My baking time was 50 minutes. I generally start checking for doneness at least 5 minutes before any recommended baking time, just in case my oven is off. If these Marbled Cheesecake Brownies are underbaked, they will be difficult to cut and gooey in not a good way. If overbaked, they will be dry in the worst of ways.


Once the brownies are baked and cooled to room temperature, they should be wrapped and refrigerated for at least 4 hours or overnight (preferable) as this makes cutting them easier. 

Cutting the Marbled Cheesecake Brownies into 24 squares makes them the perfect serving size. They are on rich side. I think they taste best served slightly chilled with a glass of milk. They are a picnic, barbecue, feed a sweet tooth, graduation party, or even after a long run perfect treat.


These are some seriously delicious brownies. And from what I remember, even better than the ones I made years ago. The investment of time searching for a 'new' recipe turned out to be a great use of my discretionary time. February 10th in National Cream Cheese Brownie Day, but I wouldn't wait until next year to make these Marbled Cheesecake Brownies. And, if by chance, you are looking for a way to extend a kindness to someone you value and treasure as a friend, especially a chocolate and cheesecake loving friend, a plate of these brownies would speak volumes.

Recipe
Marbled Cheesecake Brownies (modified version of King Arthur Flour's Chocolate Cheesecake Brownies)

Ingredients
Brownie Batter
1 cup (16 Tablespoons) unsalted butter
2 1/4 cups granulated sugar
1 1/4 cups dutch process cocoa
1 teaspoon kosher salt
1 teaspoon baking powder
1 teaspoon espresso powder
1 Tablespoon vanilla
4 large eggs, room temperature
1 cup all purpose flour (recommend King Arthur's flour)
2 cups semisweet or bittersweet chocolate chips (54-60% cocoa) (Recommend Ghiradelli Bittersweet 60% Cocoa Chocolate Chips)

Cheesecake Batter
16 ounces cream cheese, room tempeature
3/4 cup granulated sugar
2 large eggs, room temperature
2 teaspoons vanilla
1/4 cup heavy cream
1/2 cup all-purpose flour (recommend King Arthur's flour)

Directions
1. Lightly spray and line a 9"x12" inch metal baking pan with parchment paper. Set aside.
2. Preheat oven to 350 degrees (F).
3. To make the cheesecake batter:
       a. In a standing mixer with a whisk attachment, beat the cream cheese until smooth and there are no lumps.
       b. Beat in granulated sugar.
       c. Beat in eggs one at a time until fully incorporated.
       d. Beat in vanilla and heavy cream until blended.
       e. On medium speed, blend in flour until fully incorporated. Set aside.
4. To make the brownie batter.
       a. In a large saucepan, melt the butter. Then stir in the sugar, cooking until mixture is smooth and shiny. Note: Stir constantly. This mixture will be thick.
       b. Remove from heat and stir in cocoa, salt, espresso powder, and vanilla until blended. Allow the mixture to cool slightly (approximately 3-5 minutes). Note: If mixture is too hot, the eggs will curdle. If the mixture is allowed to cool longer than 5 minutes, blending in the eggs will be slightly more difficult.
       c. Using a whisk, beat in eggs, one at a time, until blended.
       d. Whisk in flour and baking powder, stirring until smooth. Note: Batter will be very thick and possibly look a little grainy, but do not worry.
       e. Stir in chocolate chips. Note: If batter is slightly warm, the chips may begin to melt slightly. Again, not to worry.
5. Spoon half of the brownie batter into the prepared pan. Smooth with an offset spatula.
6. Pour cream cheese batter over brownie base layer.
7. Dollop remaining brownie batter on top of cheesecake layer. Using a fork or knife, swirl the two together. Note: Allow some of the cheesecake batter to show through. In other words, don't overswirl.
8. Bake for 45-50 minutes or until the top springs back when pressed lightly and edges are set. Note: Can test with a cake tester. Look for the tester to come out clean.
9. Remove from oven and cool to room temperature. Cover and chill at least 4 hours (or overnight) before cutting.
10. Serve slightly chilled. Store covered in the refrigerator.


Sheep at Harmony Home Farm, Little Compton, RI


Monday, May 9, 2016

Pistachio Dusted Goat Cheese Pears


I had been purposely avoiding going to some of my favorite landscape nurseries. Showing this kind of restraint knowing they are finally fully stocked with a wide array of beautiful as well as unusual annuals and perennials might seem, especially to those who claim they know me, to be a bit out of character. Admittedly, restraint isn't necessarily the word coming to mind when describing me. While change is always possible, my hesitancy cannot be attributed to a significant personality trait pendulum shift. Always lingering in the back of my mind at this time of the year is the sage old 'wait until after Mother's Day to plant' garden advice. Although with some dramatic changes to the climate in past years, I have begun to wonder whether this garden wisdom continues to be relevant. No, my hesitancy in planting all of the urns and hanging baskets can only be attributed to my inability to make the 'what I want their aesthetic look and feel to be this year.' decision. A weighty decision occurring annually as I have apparently yet to find that 'one to be replicated year after year' look. What this means is that I need to have some sort of vision before stepping foot inside into any gardening center. And finally, thankfully it came to me this weekend. A simple, mostly mono-chromatic look with some textural contrasts to create a kind of elegance on a small scale. In other words, various shades and textures of green along with some white flowers for the back and sides and hydrangeas in the urns gracing the front of the house.


My affinity for mono-chronicity is due in large part to a strong desire to create a sense of calm or a kind of zen-ness around me. Sort of as a way to balance out all of the chaos going on and running through my head. Mixed color flower arrangements have always been a little unnerving. So in my world, having to spend long periods of time in a mixed color garden would more than likely send me over the edge. Conversely, I am drawn to those gardens dominated by the tints, shades, and tones of green interspersed with flowers in a single color. Ones like Edith Wharton's gardens at The Mount in Lenox, Massachusetts.

This desire for simplicity spilled over into the creation of this cheese platter and the making of these Pistachio Dusted Goat Cheese Pears. If you love goat cheese, just wait until you experience its' flavor complimented by a layer of finely ground pistachios. However, if by chance you are somewhat ambivalent toward goat cheese, the kind of person who could take or leave it, well, just wait until you experience its' flavor complimented by a layer of finely ground pistachios. As an added bonus, they could not be more simple to make. Quite possibly, you will think twice about putting an unadorned log of goat cheese on a cheese platter again. Not just for the aesthetics of your platter, but for its' taste.


These Pistachio Dusted Goat Cheese Pears are here just as the summer entertaining gets underway. If you are looking to create a memorable as well as elegant cheese platter, make it one dominated by a single cheese or varieties of a single cheese and great crackers and of course, amazing bottles of wine. Your entertaining life has now gotten a whole lot simpler. Sometimes there is much to be said for keeping things simple, especially when life or gardening design decisions are anything but. And less can sometimes be more.

Recipe
Pistachio Dusted Goat Cheese Pears (inspired by a recipe in The Cheesemongers Kitchen: Celebrating Cheese in 90 Recipes)
Makes 3 large pears

Ingredients
11-12 ounce log of goat cheese
1/2 cup pistachios, finely ground in a food processor
Crackers (recommend Rock Creek Crisps-Moroccan Rosemary with Raisin)
Olives and/or Fresh fruit (grapes, cherries, blackberries, sliced pears, sliced apples)

Directions
1. Divide goat cheese into three pieces.
2. Shape the pieces of goat cheese into free-form pears, remembering no two pears look alike.
3. Roll the goat cheese pears into the finely ground pistachios until well coated. Shake off any excess.
4. Use some small branches or fresh herb leaves to make a stem and/or stem with leaves.
5. Transfer to a serving platter.
6. Serve with crackers, fresh fruit, and/or olives.
Note: The Pistachio Dusted Goat Cheese Pears are best served the same day as made but still delicious the next day. Make several hours in advance.


South Shore Beach, Little Compton, Rhode Island

Wednesday, May 4, 2016

Torta di Mele (Apple Cake)


My affinity for open spaces and landscapes has been reflected in many different aspects of my life. For as long as I can remember they are what I love to photograph most (secretly I am an Ansel Adams wannabe). Many take photos of their friends and family, I take photos of the sky, trees, sea, animals, flowers, mountains, and architecture. For more than seventy years there has been a vacant piece of property on the east side of our home. This open space was one of the many things that drew me to this house almost nine years ago (because it certainly wasn't the 'what was I thinking' long narrow, hardly a gathering kind of place galley kitchen). My bucolic view underwent a dramatic change a few weeks ago when the invasion of construction trucks arrived to begin building a house. Now, each time I look out my kitchen window or side door, there is an audible 'ugh' followed by a deep sigh. In my suburban community there has been the unsettling trend of replacing smaller houses with larger ones and lots serving as play spaces for generations of children have all but disappeared. Unlike some other communities across the country where the value of open space takes precedence over growth, the changing landscape here only further deepens my love for the by the sea town in Rhode Island I was fortunate to call home for a couple of years. Short of moving back there, I suppose I will now need to turn my annual return trips into at least semi-annual ones. Hopefully these return visits along with travels to less population dense places will minimize and help to cure the angst I have been feeling over the changing view from my kitchen window.


In the last blog post I shared the titles of two recently made cookbook purchases. The recipe for this Torta di Mele (Apple Cake) comes from one of them, Emiko Davies first cookbook: Florentine: The True Cuisine of Florence. Through her photographs, stories, and recipes Emiko makes you lust for Florence and everything Tuscan. I was completely mesmerized by this book. If I close my eyes and use my imagination, I feel as if I can see and feel the landscape of Florence. And now I can taste it.


Desserts usually don't come to mind when you think of Tuscan cooking. So why did I choose to make the Torta di Mele (Apple Cake) as the first recipe out of this cookbook? Maybe because I sometimes consider myself a baker first, cook second. Or maybe this rustic apple cake just spoke to me.


I picked up two beautiful Golden Delicious apples at the grocery store for this Torta di Mele (Apple Cake). But after making this cake, next time I might look for 3 medium sized apples so the top of cake can be topped with two circular rows of apples. In other words, 3 medium sized versus 2 larger apples would be for aesthetic purposes only.

There is nothing pretentious about this recipe. And with the exception of Golden Delicious apples you more than likely have all of the ingredients in your pantry and refrigerator.

After peeling, coring, and cutting the apples into 1/2 slices, they are mixed with the freshly squeezed lemon juice and two tablespoons of granulated sugar (taken from the total amount of sugar used in the recipe). While the apples marinate, you make the batter. Having room temperature butter is critical to creating a well-blended batter. The lemon juice used to marinate the apples ultimately goes into the batter along with half of the sliced apples. The combination of the lemon zest and lemon juice are what differentiates and sets this apple cake apart from all others.


Using a 9 inch springform pan allows you to easily remove the cake from the pan and transfer to a platter or cake stand. Baked in a 360 degree (F), yes 360 degrees, this is not a typo, the cake bakes for 55-60 minutes or until the top is lightly golden and easily springs back when lightly pressed.


The cake easily removes from the pan after a 15-20 minute cooling period. There are two finishing touch options. Either a dusting of confectionary sugar (my favorite) or a brushing of melted apricot jam over the top. Both options add some sweetness to this very moist, flavorful cake, although I am partial to confectionary sugar.

From start to finish this incredibly delicious, satisfying cake comes together in less than 2 hours, a hour of which is baking time. Although intended to be a dessert, it would be perfect to serve at breakfast, brunch, with a light lunch, or bring to a picnic or gathering. Depending on the time of day it's served, it would pair perfectly with a cup of coffee or glass of sweet vin santo.


In spite of my earlier rant over the impending loss of the open space view outside of my kitchen window, the space surrounding my home has always been secondary to the space and food created within it. While some spending time here will often comment on the look of my home, those that share how it made them feel is the compliment always bringing a smile to my face, a flutter to my heart. And this Torta di Mele is destined to make all those that enter and partake in the gifts coming from my kitchen feel like they are surrounded by love.

Recipe
Torta di Mele (Apple Cake) (barely any change made to Emiko Davies recipe as shared in her cookbook Florentine: The True Cuisine of Florence)

Ingredients
2 large Golden Delicious apples (or other good cooking apples), peeled, cored, and sliced into 1/2 inch slices Note: Or use 3 smaller Golden Delicious Apples in order to have two circular rows of sliced apples placed on top of the cake.
Juice and zest of 1 medium sized lemon
6 1/2 ounces (180 g) granulated sugar, separated
4 1/2 ounces (about 9 T) (125 g) unsalted butter, room temperature
3 large eggs, room temperature (Note: Original recipe called for the use of 3 medium (1 3/4 ounce) eggs)
5 ounces whole milk
10 1/2 ounces (300 g) all-purpose flour
1 teaspoon baking powder
Pinch of kosher salt
Confectionary sugar for finishing (or warm apricot jam for finishing)

Directions
1. Preheat oven to 360 degrees (F). Prepare a 9 inch springform pan and set aside.
2. In a medium sized bowl, mix together apple slices, juice from the lemon and 2 Tablespoons of the the granulated sugar. 
3. In a standing mixer, beat the remaining sugar and butter until pale and creamy (approximately 4-5 minutes).
4. Add eggs and beat until until you have a thick, pale mixture. Scrape sides of bowl as needed.
5. Add milk and the lemon zest. Beat on low until combined.
6. Fold in flour, baking powder, salt and half of the apple slices, along with all of the lemon juice to combine.
7. Pour cake batter into prepared pan and smooth surface of cake using an offset spatula. Arrange remaining apple slices over the surface of the cake.
8. Bake in the center of the oven for 55-60 minutes or until the top is golden brown and springy to the touch. Allow to sit for at least 15-20 minutes before removing from the pan and transferring to a cake stand or platter.
9. Finish with a liberal dusting of sifted confectionary sugar. Note: Instead of confectionary sugar, brush with melted apricot jam.
10. Serve with coffee or vin santo.

Scenes from Martha's Vineyard, September 2015.