Macaroni and Cheese, Version 2

Winter has barely started and we are already experiencing some bone chilling, painfully cold days here in the midwest. The kind of days where you don't really want to leave the house as you irrationally fear frostbite will immediately set in even by merely stepping in the cold for the minute it takes to bring the garbage containers out to the curb, to walk from the car into the grocery store, or to bring more wood in to keep the fire in the fireplace going. Days where cozying up with a good book (preferably sitting near a warm fire), binge watching all of those shows you couldn't find the time to watch, and/or eating comfort food are the simplest of life's pleasure. Yet somehow they feel more like one of those 'pinch yourself' moments of indulgence.

A couple of years ago, the Huffington Post shared their list of the 25 Best Comfort Foods. Number three on the list was Macaroni and Cheese. A dish listed somewhere on almost every other best or quintessentially classic comfort food list ever published. Not surprisingly the search for Macaroni and Cheese recipes increases as the temperature decreases. Seems everyone goes on the hunt for the creamiest, cheesiest, dreamiest version of the most addictive of all comfort foods when the weather turns wicked. But most of us want not just creamy and cheesy, we want some crunch! In other words, we want our Macaroni and Cheese to have it all.

Recipes for making Macaroni and Cheese fall into two general categories: (1) those completely made on the stove and (2) those baked in the oven. This creamy, cheesy version begins on the stove and finishes in the oven.

Traditionally Macaroni and Cheese is made with elbow macaroni. But nothing prevents you from changing out the type of pasta in this dish. Although choosing the right kind of pasta is critical as using the wrong kind of pasta will affect the dish. Select a pasta having nooks and crannies to catch and hold onto the cheese sauce. Pasta shapes like shells, cavatappi, and farfalle are good at trapping the cheese sauce and can transform your Macaroni and Cheese dish from a simple to an 'up-scale' one.

The foundation of the cheese sauce is a roux made with equal parts butter and flour. Warmed whole milk is slowly added to roux, turning the mixture into a bechamel sauce. By using slightly warmed milk, you will spend less time whisking to get the sauce to the desired consistency. Salt, pepper, some Tabasco sauce (I like Cholula Hot Sauce), heavy cream and grated cheeses will finish off the sauce.

Cook your pasta al dente (i.e., firm, but with some bite) as it will continue to cook in the sauce when baked in the oven. More often than not I cook my pasta about a minute longer than the recommended al dente time listed on the bag/box. But test it before adding any cooking time. To temporarily stop the pasta from cooking any further, rinse in cold water as soon as you drain it in a colander. Be sure to drain the pasta before adding to the sauce.

I used an aged white sharp cheddar (from Vermont Creamery) and gruyere in this Macaroni and Cheese as both are known for melting easily and complimenting one another. If at all possible, never use pre-shredded cheese as it will not deliver as rich of a taste as cheeses freshly grated do. If you don't have or can't find gruyere cheese, use Parmigiano-Reggiano, Fontina, or a mild Gouda to go with the white sharp cheddar.

As tempted as you will be to eat the sauced pasta right out of the pan (and you will be), you will be rewarded for your patience if you pour (all but one or two small bites) it into your buttered casserole dish.

Sprinkle the reserved half cup of grated sharp cheddar cheese over the top of the casserole, before evenly spreading the buttered bread crumbs. Instead of using boxed bread crumbs, put some (white, egg or brioche) bread and/or rolls in a food processor and process until the mixture is crumbly. One generous cup of bread crumbs mixed with four Tablespoons of melted butter covered the casserole perfectly.

The Macaroni and Cheese bakes for 25-30 minutes in a preheated 350 degree (F) oven. It's done when the bread crumbs turn a beautiful golden brown and some of the sauce is bubbling up along the sides of the dish. Allow to sit for at least five minutes before serving.

This is a creamy, cheesy macaroni and cheese. The combination of the sharp cheddar and gruyere cheeses blended together contribute to giving the finished dish a great depth of flavor. And the buttered bread crumbs give it the perfect bite of crunch.

This version of the Macaroni and Cheese is the perfect side dish to go with barbecue, burgers, or grilled chicken, however, it's one where it can be a meal all unto itself. Serve with a simple salad and some white wine and you have the makings of a dinner party. To take this dish up a notch or make it slightly more decadent, top the servings with some sautéed lobster medallions or top the entire dish with them. Regardless of how you serve it, it is destined to help you survive the winter as well as completely satisfy a macaroni and cheese craving for at least a week.

On a side note, this version of Macaroni and Cheese may be my most favorite. I don't think I will be looking for another recipe any time soon. If ever.

Recipe
Macaroni and Cheese, Version 2 (slight adaptation to James Beard's Macaroni and Cheese recipe as shared in his cookbook Beard on Pasta)
Serve 6-8 as a side dish. Serves 4 to 6 as a main course.

Ingredients
4 Tablespoons unsalted butter
4 Tablespoons all-purpose flour
2 cups whole milk, warmed
1/2 teaspoon kosher salt
1/8 teaspoon black pepper
1/2 teaspoon Tabasco, or more to taste (Note: My favorite is Cholula Hot Sauce.)
1/2 to 3/4 cup heavy cream 
1/2 pound cavatappi or elbow macaroni, cooked al dente
8 ounces white, aged sharp cheddar, freshly grated and divided (Note: An eight ounce block of cheese is equivalent to 2 cups of grated cheese)
1 1/2 ounces grated gruyere  
1 cup fresh bread crumbs
4 Tablespoons melted butter

Directions
1. Preheat oven to 350 degrees (F). Butter a 12 inch casserole dish and set aside.
2. Melt 4 Tablespoons unsalted butter over low heat. Add flour and stir with wood spoon or spatula until the roux is frothy and the taste of raw flour is gone (approximately 3 minutes).
3. Add warmed milk gradually to the roux, stirring hard all the while. 
4. Turn up the heat and cook, stirring constantly, until sauce is just to the boiling point.
5. Turn down heat and let simmer for several minutes. Stir in salt, pepper, and Tabasco.
6. Stir in one half cup heavy cream and simmer for a couple of minutes longer.
7. Mix in three quarters (1 1/2 cups) of the grated cheddar and all of the grated gruyere into the sauce. Stir until cheese has melted. Remove from heat. Note: If sauce seems too thick, add the remaining quarter cup of heavy cream.
8. Cook (to al dente), rinse in cold water, and drain pasta. 
9. Mix pasta into the sauce.
10. Pour mixture into prepared dish.
11. Mix bread crumbs with melted butter.
12. Top mixture with remaining 1/2 cup of grated cheddar cheese and the bread crumb mixture.
13. Bake for 25-30 minutes until bubbly and bread crumbs have nicely browned.
14. Allow to set for 5 minutes. Serve.

Notes: (1) The first time you make this Macaroni and Cheese, use the traditional elbow macaroni. (2) Top individual servings of the Macaroni and Cheese with lobster medallions to turn it into a lunch/dinner course. (3) Instead of using slices of bread, buy a fresh roll from your bakery or in the bakery section of your grocery store to make the bread crumbs. (4) Reheat leftovers on a low heat microwave setting.

Shadows on the canyon walls in the Lower Dells at Matthiessen State Park, Oglesby, IL (January 2017)

Browned Butter Hummingbird Coffee Cake with Mascarpone Glaze

For those of you who may be thinking this first post of the new year is nothing more than a wicked attempt at tempting you to already break your new year's resolution of eating healthier foods, like adding more fruits and nuts to your diet, you would be wrong. Because this Browned Butter Hummingbird Coffee Cake with Mascarpone Glaze is made with bananas, pineapple, and pecans. In other words, it's a cake made with fruit and nuts. My definition of a win-win, glass half full recipe! Have I told you lately that seeing possibility where others see improbability (aka rationalizing) is one of my strengths? Or my belief that life shouldn't be about deprivation but rather moderation? As much as I can be a little redundant with my musings here on the blog, sometimes a little redundancy is a good thing. Really it is.

There were many reasons why I wanted to make this Browned Butter Hummingbird Coffee Cake with Mascarpone Glaze. Was it because I was in need of a great, new coffee cake recipe, because anything with the words hummingbird cake in the title immediately gets my attention, or because I needed a bribe to get the person who shall remain nameless to take up all of the cumbersome, heavy holiday boxes up to the attic? The answer? All of the above.

While one of my last year's intentions was to reduce the number of cookbooks and cooking magazines I buy, I couldn't resist buying the January/February 2017 issue of 'bake from Scratch'. Even the long checkout line at the bookstore couldn't deter me from buying it. Filled with a number of recipes just begging me to make them, the Browned Butter Hummingbird Coffee Cake seemed to tug a little harder at my heartstrings. Add the words browned butter to a recipe and well, suddenly I find myself on a nothing will get in my way mission.

As with most recipes I come across, I either leave them alone or feel compelled to tinker with them just a teeny tiny bit. Whenever I make any changes it sort of feels I have given myself permission to color outside of the lines, to break some rules, to take a leap of faith. In other words, it's what being a little radical looks like in my world. To be perfectly honest, the recipe for the Browned Butter Hummingbird Coffee Cake was just about perfect. Toasting the pecans before adding them to the streusel was a minor nuance. Changing out the sour cream based glaze for the mascarpone glaze would be one of those changes falling into the category of personal preferences. And making this coffee cake in a springform pan instead of cake pan (9 inch instead of 8 inch) was nothing more than a convenience.

What can be better than a coffee cake topped with a butter, brown sugar, cinnamon, sugar, pecan streusel? One having some of it inside of it! If you are looking to amplify the flavor of the streusel, toast the pecans in a preheated 350 degree (F) oven for 8 to 9 minutes. I promise, you won't be sorry for this tiny extra step.

The browned butter is the not-so secret transformational ingredient taking this Hummingbird Coffee Cake to a whole new level of nutty deliciousness and a deeper complexity. When butter has melted to the point where the water has been cooked out, the remaining milk solids begin to brown and take on a nutty flavor. Make sure to scrape out all of the little brown bits into your batter as they hold incredible flavor.

After spreading half of the coffee cake batter in the pan, top with both the cinnamon sugar mixture and one-third of the streusel mixture. Top with the rest of the batter, smooth out with an offset spatula and finish off with the remaining streusel before putting the coffee cake in a preheated 350 degree (F) oven.

Instead of using an 8 inch cake pan, this Browned Butter Hummingbird Coffee Cake was made in a 9 inch springform pan (lined with parchment paper). In spite of changing out the size of the cake pan, there was no significant change to the baking time (45-50 minutes).

Hummingbird Cakes are traditionally topped with a cream cheese frosting. This coffee cake version is topped with a mascarpone glaze.

Allow the coffee cake to rest at least 15 minutes before pouring on the glaze.

Imagine starting your day with a warm coffee cake. But whether you serve it warm or at room temperature, this may be the best coffee cake on the planet.

Full of intense flavor, this Browned Butter Hummingbird Coffee Cake is incredibly moist. The Mascarpone Glaze adds a hint of sweetness and is a perfect finishing touch. So if you are committed to adding more fruits and nuts to your diet in the weeks, month and year ahead, I would venture to say this cake would help you keep that promise, resolution, intention. And, if by chance you need to offer a small bribe, this coffee cake may get you more than you even hoped for. Happy New Year!

Recipe
Browned Butter Hummingbird Coffee Cake with Mascarpone Glaze (slight adaptation to the Browned Butter Hummingbird Coffee Cake recipe printed in the Jan/Feb 2017 Issue of Bake from Scratch)
Serves 8-12, depending on how you slice it

Ingredients
Streusel
1/3 cup (43g) all-purpose flour
1/4 cup (50g) light brown sugar, firmly packed
1/2 teaspoon cinnamon
1/4 teaspoon kosher salt
3 1/2 (50g) Tablespoons unsalted butter, room temperature
1/2 cup pecan halves, toasted and chopped 

Cake
1/2 cup (113g) unsalted butter, room temperature
2 large eggs, room temperature
1/2 cup mashed banana (from 1 large ripe banana or 2 smaller ripe bananas)
1/2 cup crushed pineapple, drained
1 teaspoon vanilla
1 1/2 cups (195g) all-purpose flour
3/4 cup (150g) plus 1 Tablespoon granulated sugar, divided
1/4 cup (50g) light brown sugar, firmly packed
3/4 teaspoon Kosher salt
3/4 teaspoon baking powder
1 teaspoon cinnamon, divided
Optional: Pecan halves for finishing the top of the coffee cake

Glaze
1/2 cup (60g) confectionary sugar, sifted
2 Tablespoons mascarpone cheese, softened
2-3 Tablespoons whole milk

Directions
Streusel 
1. In a medium bowl, whisk together the flour, brown sugar, cinnamon, and salt.
2. Stir in butter, mixing until the mixture is crumbly. Note: Use fingertips until desired consistency is reached.
3. Stir in chopped, toasted pecans. Cover and set aside.

Glaze
1. In a small bowl, whisk together the sifted confectionary sugar, mascarpone cheese and 2 Tablespoons of the whole milk until creamy and pourable. If mixture to thick, add milk 1 teaspoon at a time.

Cake
1. Preheat oven to 350 degrees (F). Line a 9 inch springform or baking pan with parchment paper. Spray with baking spray and lightly flour. Set aside.
2. In a medium, heavy bottomed saucepan, melt butter over medium heat. Cook until butter turns a medium-brown color and has a nutty aroma. Approximately 8-10 minutes. Remove from heat and cool to room temperature.
3. In a medium bowl, whisk together the flour, 3/4 cup granulated sugar, brown sugar, salt, baking powder and 1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon. Set aside.
4. In the bowl of a standing mixer fitted with a paddle attachment, beat eggs, mashed banana, drained pineapple, and vanilla at medium speed until combined. Approximately 1-2 minutes. 
5. Stir in cooled browned butter. Scrape the browned bits into the batter.
6. Gradually add flour mixture to the batter, beating until just combined.
7. In a small bowl, mix tother the remaining 1 Tablespoon granulated sugar and remaining 1/2 teaspoon cinnamon. Set aside.
8. Spread half of the batter into the prepared cake pan.
9. Sprinkle with the cinnamon sugar and 1/3 of the streusel mixture.
10. Top with remaining cake batter. Smoothing top with an offset spatula.
11. Evenly sprinkle the remaining streusel over the cake batter.
12. Bake for 45-50 minutes or until cake tested with a toothpick comes out clean. Remove from oven and let cake rest for 15 minutes.
13. Run a sharp knife around the edges. Open latch on springform pan and/or invert cake onto a plate and invert again, placing cake on a wire rack.
14. Drizzle glaze over warm cake. Optional: Top with pecan halves.

Notes: (1) The inspiration recipe recommended a sour cream based glaze (one half cup confectionary sugar, two Tablespoons sour cream, 1 1/2 teaspoons whole milk). (2) If using an 8 inch cake pan, baking time may need to be adjusted slightly, but would recommend checking for doneness at 45 minutes. (3) Be sure to drain the crushed pineapple before adding to the batter.

Lower Dells falls at Matthiessen State Park, Ogelsby, Illinois (January 2017)

White Chocolate Dipped Cranberry and Pistachio Biscotti

"It's not how much we give, but how much love we put into giving." (Mother Teresa) I have been known to agonize over choosing the 'right' gifts for friends and family. Getting it right sometimes means getting them what they really want. Unless, as is sometimes the case, they don't really know. Over the years I have learned it's not really the thought that counts, but rather it's the thoughtfulness behind the gift that matters most. To truly be thoughtful requires one to listen, observe, and/or pay close attention. For years I used to give my brother-in-law the white the chocolate Santa or white chocolate Easter Rabbit because I thought he loved white chocolate. How or where I came to think this I honestly don't remember. But then one year, I learned what I had believed to be true wasn't. In a single moment my thoughtfulness turned into thoughtlessness. Recently a group of my friends were reminiscing about the gifts they had received in recent years and as far back as their childhoods. In almost every case, the gifts most cherished weren't necessarily the most expensive ones. In a few cases had very little monetary value. What made them 'heartwarming' memorable was the fact they were the things they had wished for, had talked about, or had seen, but for various reasons didn't buy for themselves. Someone in their lives was paying very close attention.

If there are people in your life who love to drink coffee and have a bit of a sweet tooth, these White Chocolate Dipped Cranberry and Pistachio Biscotti may be a perfect aka most thoughtful gift. And beyond being incredibly delicious, they just happen to be relatively easy and quick to make.

Today's modern version of biscotti are generally associated with the Tuscan region of Italy. Although the biscotti's origin can be traced back to Roman times. There are essentially two types of biscotti: ones containing butter and often dipped in coffee and ones made without butter for dipping into wine (i.e., vin santo). Biscotti or 'biscotto' derives from the medieval Latin word 'biscoctus': 'bis' (meaning twice) and 'coctum' (meaning baked). While there is a fair amount of variability in their ingredients (nuts, spices, dried fruit, chocolate), they must be twice-baked to be called biscotti. For more history on biscotti, click here.

Bring your unsalted butter and eggs to room temperature before making the biscotti dough. Here in the midwest at this time of the year, I generally take butter and eggs out of the refrigerator the night before.

Use either a knife or food processor to coarsely chop the pistachios.

The dried cranberries and chopped pistachios are stirred in the biscotti dough by hand.

The original recipe called for shaping the dough into a 13 inch long by 3 inch wide log and I complied. By making some slight adjustments to the length and width of the shaped dough (a tad longer, a tad thinner) the yield of biscotti will increase. More biscotti is better than less biscotti.

To give the baked biscotti a beautiful golden finish, the dough was brushed with an egg white wash before being placed in the oven.

In a preheated 350 degree (F) oven, the first baking of the biscotti is approximately 40 minutes (or until it has a beautiful golden finish).

Before cutting the biscotti for the second baking, it needs to rests for 20 to 30 minutes. Although most recipes call for cutting the biscotti on a slight diagonal using a serrated knife to cut the biscotti, I found using a really sharp knife created cleaner cuts and didn't crumble the ends of the slices.

The cut slices are returned to the baking sheet and baked for 15-20 minutes (or until they are crisp and golden). My baking time was closer to 20 minutes. Midway through the baking process, flip the biscotti to ensure they have their signature crispy texture.

After the biscotti slices have completely cooled, dip in the melted white chocolate and sprinkle with white sanding sugar. Personally I like the elegant white on white finished look of these biscotti, but if you want a more festive look sprinkle with red and/or green sanding sugar.

Allow the chocolate to set before serving, plating, and/or packaging. 

The flavor of the lemon zest is subtle but an absolutely necessary ingredient as it perfectly compliments the dried cranberries, pistachios, and white chocolate. These White Chocolate Dipped Cranberry and Pistachio Biscotti are crunchy but not 'hard' due to the use of butter in the dough. Dipping them in a cup of hot coffee is optional. So I encourage you to first take a bite to savor the biscotti's lusciousness before deciding whether or not to dunk in your favorite cup of coffee.

Although these White Chocolate Dipped Cranberry and Pistachio Biscotti will retain their freshness for a couple of weeks (if stored well), I seriously doubt they will. More than likely they will be devoured long before their freshness 'expiration' date. Of all of the baked goods you make as gifts this holiday season or serve to friends/family, these biscotti may be the most memorable.

Recipe
White Chocolate Dipped Cranberry and Pistachio Biscotti (slight adaption to Giada De Laurentiis's Holiday Biscotti recipe)

Ingredients
2 cups all-purpose flour
1 1/2 teaspoons baking powder
3/4 cup granulated sugar
1/2 cup (1 stick) unsalted butter, room temperature
1 teaspoon grated lemon zest
1/4 teaspoon kosher salt
2 large eggs, room temperature
3/4 cup pistachios, coarsely chopped
2/3 cup dried cranberries (or dried cherries)
1 egg white, lightly beaten
12 ounces good quality white chocolate
White sanding sugar

Directions
1. Preheat oven to 350 degrees (F). Line a baking sheet with parchment paper and set aside.
2. In a medium sized bowl, combine flour and baking powder. Whisk to blend.
3. In a medium-large bowl, beat butter, sugar, lemon zest, and salt until light and fluffy (approximately 3-4 minutes) in a standing mixer fitted with a paddle attachment or with a handheld mixer.
4. Beat in eggs, one at a time.
5. Add the flour mixture, beating just until blended.
6. Stir in the pistachios and cranberries.
7. Form the dough into a 13 inch long-3 inches wide log on the prepared baking sheet. Note: Consider shaping the dough into a 15 inch long-2 1/2 inch wide log to increase the yield on the number of biscotti. 
8. Brush the dough with the lightly beaten egg white.
9. Bake until lightly golden, approximately 40 minutes. Remove from oven and allow to cool for 20-30 minutes.
10. Using a sharp knife, cut the log on the diagonal into 1/2 inch to 3/4 inch thick slices. 
11. Arrange the biscotti, cut side up on the baking sheet.
12. Bake the biscotti for approximately 20 minutes or until they biscotti are crisp and pale golden. Note: Turn the biscotti over at the midway baking point.
13. Transfer the biscotti to a cooling rack. Allow to cool completely.
14. Melt chocolate in a bowl set over a saucepan of simmering water.
15. Dip top half of the biscotti into the melted chocolate.
16. Sprinkle with sanding sugar before chocolate sets.
17. Allow chocolate to set before serving. 
18. Store biscotti in a tightly sealed container and/or wrap in cellophane bags.

Notes: (1) I dipped half of the biscotti in the melted white chocolate, but you can dip the entire top/flat side of the biscotti for a different look. (2) During the second bake, I placed the biscotti directly on the baking sheet (no parchment paper) to get an even golden crisp. (2) Cooling time between the first and second bakes is recommended to be 20 to 30 minutes. Would recommend cutting closer to 20 than to 30 minutes to get the cleanest cuts.

Holiday Breakfast and Brunch Recipe Roundup

Ready or not, the holidays are almost upon us. At some point we have to stop decorating, baking, shopping, wrapping, writing out holiday cards, ordering from Amazon, worrying about whether the presents we spent days searching for will be received with 'over the top' giddiness, sending out or hand delivering packages, and tinkering with the holiday dinner menu. Because we have to conserve enough energy to think about and plan the holiday and/or holiday weekend breakfasts. Recognizing there needs to be more to 'breakfast' than freshly brewed or pressed coffee and a platter of those holiday cookies you have spent days, even weeks, making.

Breakfast used to my least favorite meal. One I could easily do without. Long before McDonald's decided having breakfast menu items available all day was a 'genius' idea, my opinion of and craving for breakfast foods made a dramatic shift. Before the proverbial breakfast pendulum swung back to a midpoint, I went through a period where all I wanted to eat at every meal were breakfast foods, particularly pancakes, with or without blueberries, slathered in butter. While I am quite certain I will never tire of pancakes, there are a few other breakfast dishes that make for a perfect start to the day. And particularly the holiday.

So here are eight of my absolute favorites. Two of them (the Baked Praline French Toast Casserole and the Cheddar Cheese and Sausage Breakfast Casserole) can be completely assembled the night before and put into the oven while everyone is opening their gifts. The Pancakes (with or without blueberries) and the Swedish Pancakes come together easily and quickly. If you don't want to make your own crust, use a refrigerated pie dough crust for the quiche. The dough for the Liège Waffles needs to be made the night before, but they are relatively easy to make in the morning. Trust me when I say the effort you put into making these waffles pales in comparison to the giddiness everyone will experience when you taste them. (Psst, there's still time to ask for a Waffle Maker for Chrismukkah if you don't have one!) You can make the egg dishes while everyone is cleaning up the wrapping paper mess and/or reading the directions for those gifts requiring set-up or assembly. In other words, with a little pre-planning, everyone can have an incredibly delicious, memorable, perfect 'Martha Stewart, Ina Garten, Norman Rockwell-esq' start to the day holiday breakfast. In fact, it could be one of the best, most appreciated gifts you will give your friends and family over the holidays. In case you don't get the 'gift' reactions you hoped for (or the 'gift' you wished for), consider a great breakfast the back-up plan to not only help you take a deep breath and let it go, but one bringing some incredible, much needed joy (and peace) to your soul. Food, especially great breakfast food, has a way of making everything better.

Swedish Pancakes

Blueberry Pancakes

Liège Waffles

Baked Praline French Toast Casserole

Cheddar Cheese and Sausage Breakfast Casserole

Caramelized Leek, Ham and Cheddar Quiche

Uova al Forno aka Baked Eggs

Chorizo and Egg Piperade