Wednesday, December 27, 2017

Almond Rice Pudding with Caramel Cream and Sour Cherry Jam


Whether your weather was warm and balmy or your wish of a white Christmas came true, I hope you all had a wonderfully memorable holiday with your family and friends. We certainly did. And all that time put into the decorating and spent getting ready for our Christmas dinner here were in the end all worth it. In spite of my predictable whining and worrying rituals (will it all get done? will it be almost perfect?), I absolutely love having and celebrating this holiday in our home. A generous and most perfect unexpected gift from my sister and brother-in-law brought tears to my eyes (seems getting me cry over a gift is one my family's goals). The meal was everything I hoped it would be. Although there is a recipe for a green bean casserole from a famous chef who shall remain nameless that will definitely not see the light of another holiday meal again (seriously I think the canned cream of mushroom soup and canned fried onion version, gasp, is actually better). The choice of our annual Christmas movie wasn't what you might call 'thought provoking or uplifting', however, "Get Out" really was one of my many favorite movies of the year. And it will definitely be one of those movies everyone will remember at all future Christmas gatherings. The only thing we seemed not to get around to was playing some games as a family. Considering the level of competitiveness in some members of the family (they shall remain nameless), maybe that was a good thing. And so in spite of a side dish that disappointed (me) and no game playing bragging rights to finish the day, it was a great, very blessed, memorable Christmas.


Our Christmas desserts included a tray of homemade holiday confections, a fresh fruit topped cheesecake and steamed pudding with hard sauce. Had I known how amazing this Almond Rice Pudding with Caramel Cream and Cherry Jam tasted, it too would have been one of the dessert options. But with the dessert menu already set and one dessert request (for Key Lime Pie) not granted, I thought it best to wait for another occasion to make it again.


I understand there are more than a handful of people out there who aren't big fans of Rice Pudding. Those who would normally opt out of having any even if they were starving. Of the top five working theories as to why this might be, I believe never having tasted a really delicious, creamy, decadent rice pudding is at the top of the list. Sure we all have had the less than so-so 'please don't make me eat another bite' rice puddings. You know the ones with weird textures, too much cinnamon, horribly bland or overly boozy. Some of the reasons why rice pudding can get a really rap. So I get why one might be so easily dismissive of even the thought of it. Which means it might take a bit of work, or more accurately a bit of deception, to turn someone's revulsion of rice pudding into a craving. And yes, for the record, I am all about having someone taste something first before I tell them what it is. As I know all too well that first tastes are highly influenced by past tastes and pre-conceived notions. 


But this a Rice Pudding recipe I didn't think I would share on the blog as I was midway into the process. All I can say is thank goodness I stayed the course and didn't give up. But more on that in just a bit.


The rice used in a rice pudding matters. With rice options of basmati, jasmine, Japanese short grain, long grain, arborio instant, and par-boiled, it's no wonder the taste and textures of rice puddings vary. What I learned in a limited rice pudding research endeavor was that with the exception of instant and par-boiled rice (designated as definitely not acceptable), there were pros and cons to all of the others. Yet some will argue that rice isn't the critical ingredient in the rice pudding, but the liquid used in the making of the pudding is. Whole milk seemed to be getting the most nods for creating a deliciously creamy pudding. The inspiration for this Almond Rice Pudding with Caramel Cream and Cherry Jam recipe came from a recent issue of Food and Wine Magazine. It recommended using arborio rice and whole milk. And I followed those recommendations. I opted to use vanilla bean paste instead of vanilla bean pods and replaced the homemade sweet cherry sauce with a sour cherry jam. While I can't honestly tell you their version is as good as or even better than the one I made, I would be willing to put their version against my modified one (yes, I am that confident of a win). 


The ratio of liquid to rice (6.25 cups to 1 cup). The liquid is comprised of 1.25 cups of water and 5 cups of whole milk. That is alot of liquid for one cup of arborio rice. That along with a cooking time of 35-40 minutes had me a bit concerned even before I started making it. But I forged ahead. However, when my cooking time was approaching the 40 minute mark and the texture of the rice pudding was not what I thought it should be, I thought this was endeavor was going to be a bust.  And even as my cooking time was approaching 55 minutes, I for a brief moment thought there was a typographical error in the recipe. Instead of cooking it until the rice absorbed all the liquid (which I don't think was completely possible in the cooking time recommended), it cooked the mixture until the rice was tender and it had the consistency of a thick pudding or porridge. I hoped or rather prayed the rice would absorb the liquid while it chilled in the refrigerator overnight. Spoiler alert: My hopes and prayers were answered.


The flavor of sweetness, creaminess and richness to this rice pudding comes from the vanilla bean paste, the sugar (only 6 Tablespoons) and one cup of freshly whipped cream. The addition of the whipped cream to the chilled rice pudding texture, in my opinion, is what makes it worthy of a comfort food distinction. And that's before it's topped with a caramel cream and sour cherry jam.


The addition of the caramel cream is what turns this comfort food dessert into a dinner party worthy comfort food dessert. I probably cooked my caramel mixture about a minute longer than I should have, but the slightly burnt caramel taste was an incredibly delicious compliment. However, since that may not exactly be everyone's favorite flavor of caramel (remember we might be trying to convert non-rice pudding lovers into rice pudding aficionados), cook your water/sugar mixture only until a golden (not deep deep) golden color appears. 


Once you make this caramel cream for this rice pudding, you are going to find more uses for it. It's insanely good.


If by now you are thinking, wow this rice pudding has a lot of whipped cream it. You would be right! But remember, there is no such thing as too much of a good thing.

I knew from the onset of making this recipe I would be using a sour cherry jam. The kind where the jar contains oodles and oodles of whole cherries swimming in a sweet syrupy jam. In other words, the kind you just want to eat off a spoon its that good. Use whatever brand you love (I used this one by Sarantis), but definitely use one having whole versus pieces of cherries. Or if you want to push this dessert even further over the extravagance edge, top it with Luxardo Maraschino Cherries. But you really, really, really need to like the people you are serving this rice pudding to as its' crazy expensive.


There is an explosion of flavors in every bite of this Almond Rice Pudding with Caramel Cream and Sour Cherry Jam. It is hands down comfort food at its' best. And if there was ever a rice pudding to change the opinion of those non-fans out there, this would be THE one. Seriously, it's that good. It's almost hard to resist anything topped with caramel cream and a thick, sweet sour cherry jam.

Recipe
Creamy Rice Pudding with Caramel Cream and Sour Cherry Jam (several adaptations to Food and Wine's Almond Rice Pudding with Sweet Cherry Sauce and Caramel Cream, December 2017)
Serves 8-10, depending on portion size

Ingredients
Rice Pudding
1 cup (194 g) arborio rice
1 1/4 cups water
5 cups whole milk
2 Tablespoons Vanilla Bean Paste (or 2 vanilla beans, split lengthwise, seeds scraped and pods reserved)
6 Tablespoons (86 g) granulated or caster sugar
1/4 teaspoon kosher salt
1 1/4 cups whole skin on natural almonds
1 cup heavy whipping cream
12-16 ounces of sour cherry jam in heavy syrup (Note: I used this one.)

Caramel Cream
1 cup granulated sugar
1/4 cup boiling water
1 1/4 cups heavy whipping cream
pinch of sea salt
1/2 teaspoon vanilla extract

Directions
Rice Pudding
1. Bring 1 1/4 cups of water to a boil in a medium, heavy bottomed saucepan. 
2. Add the rice and cook, stirring constantly for 3 minutes.
3. Stir in the milk and the vanilla bean paste (or vanilla bean seeds and pods) and bring to a boil.
4. Reduce heat to low, cover the pan and cook for 45-55 minutes (stirring frequently) until the mixture has the consistency of a very thick pudding or porridge and the rice is tender.  Note: Inspiration recipe indicated all of the liquid would be absorbed, however, that did not happen.)
5. Remove the pan from the heat and stir in the sugar and salt. Transfer to a heatproof bowl and allow to cool. Note: If using a vanilla bean, remove pod.
6. Cover with a piece of plastic wrap, placing the plastic wrap on top of the pudding so a crust does not form, and refrigerate overnight.
7. Before serving, whip 1 cup of heavy whipping cream until firm peaks form. Fold the whipped cream and almonds into the rice pudding.

Caramel Cream
1. In a medium, heavy bottomed saucepan, cook one cup of granulated sugar over moderate heat, stirring until the sugar liquifies and turns a golden caramel color (approximately 7-9 minutes)
2. While whisking, slowly and carefully pour the boiling water into the caramel. Whisk until blended. Note: Mixture will splash, so use a long handled whisk to prevent yourself from getting splashed with the hot mixture.
3. Remove from heat and stir in vanilla and sea salt.
4. Allow to cool for about 10 minutes.
5. In a medium bowl or standing mixer fitted with a whisk attachment, whip 1 1/4 cups of heavy whipping cream until soft peaks form.
6. Using a spatula, fold the caramel into the whipped cream until fully incorporated.

Serving
1. Spoon some of the rice pudding into a bowl, glass or cup.
2. Top with a generous tablespoon of the cherry jam.
3. Top with a generous tablespoon of the caramel cream. Note: You could form the caramel cream into quenelles rather than just dolloping it on top of the rice pudding. Directions on how to form them can be found here.

Notes: So my biggest takeaway from making this new recipe for the first time was to trust my instincts over the directions. Which means you too should trust your instincts. If the rice is tender and the mixture has a thick porridge like consistency at 40 minutes rather than 55 minutes, go with the 40 minutes. You will know in the morning after it is chilled overnight if your instincts were right.