Monday, April 16, 2018

Cocoa Banana Bread


Let me start out with a disclaimer. I don't write reviews of cookbooks (at least not yet anyway), I don't receive free cookbooks from publishers (but wouldn't that be nice), and my circle of friends doesn't include the food bloggers I admire (maybe someday). So when I make and write about a recipe I find in a cookbook, magazine, or on one form or another of social media, it's first because there was something about the recipe that spoke to me. However, even more important, is it has to be one I have a strong, unexplainable feeling about. Particularly the integrity of the recipe itself and the recipe creator (or adapter, whichever the case may be). Call it a recipe sixth sense. And yes, every now and then, I have been known to make something everyone is raving about. Who doesn't want to join a virtual gushing over, no formal invitation needed food party? Although I am a bit picky as to which party I want to go to. 


When I bought Alison Roman's cookbook "Dining In: Highly Cookable Recipes" a short while back, I didn't tab every other page the first time I went through it. On the first go round, I found more than a handful of recipes I thought were worth the price of the book. But after going back to the book a second and third time, I wondered how it was I initially skipped over so many others. For whatever the reason, the book started to talk to me. I ultimately realized this would become one of those cookbooks getting a significant amount of use, or rather overuse, in the weeks and months ahead. I wondered, could this be one of those cookbooks that could put my cookbook purchases on pause for awhile or curb them for an indefinite period of time? With the exception of a new Ottolenghi cookbook coming out later this year, I really think it could be.


If one has already shared not one, but two banana recipes on the blog, why would there be a third? Third time the charm? Well maybe. But when I read the recipe for the Cocoa Banana Bread, described as being more cake like than bread like, I was more than intrigued. Finding a recipe having the combination of chocolate and banana flavors was more than enough to motivate me to make it. What I did not know before making this Cocoa Banana Bread was how rich without being to rich, dense, luscious, moist, and beyond delicious it would be. If there were ever a decadent Banana Bread, this would be it. Definitely dessert worthy, but for those of us chocolate and banana lovers, a case could be made for having it for breakfast. And, even if there wasn't, there is always the 'life is short' rationalization.


No matter how many banana bread recipes you have in your life, you definitely, absolutely must make room for this one.


I had to wait more than week for the bananas to ripen to that banana bread making ready point. More than once I have wished the grocery stores I frequent would sell overly ripe bananas, so I could make banana bread whenever the urge came over me. While all of the other ingredients in this Cocoa Banana Bread are readily accessible and probably already in your refrigerator or cupboard, this would be one of those plan at least a week ahead recipes. Unless, of course, you have a handy source banana bread ripe bananas.


If, like me, you generally buy demerara sugar and mascarpone cheese, nothing about this Cocoa Banana Bread ingredient list is unusual. If you don't regularly buy either of those things, this recipe might convince you they need to be your new staples. Other than recommending your mascarpone cheese should be room temperature, cutting the banana for the top of the bread while it is still in the skin, specifying a weight for the bananas to be used in the bread batter, and lining the pan with parchment paper, I didn't make any real substantive changes to the recipe. 


Mashing the bananas with a fork (or even a potato masher) will give you the coarse mashed banana consistency you are looking for. You want to see some of the banana chunks when you slice the baked cake. 


Honestly, when I saw the pan size recommended I didn't think it was right. But it was. So trust me when I tell you the pan size listed below isn't an error. Your pan will be almost full when all of the batter goes in, but there isn't a significant rise to this bread so it works. 


Of course I wanted my finished Cocoa Banana Bread to be as perfect and as beautiful as possible. Instead I had to settle for uniquely beautiful.


What I discovered too late was how to cut the banana lengthwise. Instead of cutting the banana while it was still in the skin, I had peeled it and then cut it. It took me two bananas to figure out it. Or one banana too late. So instead of two perfect intact halves gracing the top of the bread, I ended up with one perfect and one slightly imperfect one. It could have driven my perfection seeking Virgo self over the edge a few years ago, but nowadays if something can't be perfect, it needs to have character. And this Cocoa Banana Bread has character!


When I shared a photo of this Cocoa Banana Bread with some of my friends, a few thought it was topped with bacon! Slow roasted, bruleed banana halves might have some resemble to slices of bacon and I am certain someone, somewhere has combined the flavors of chocolate, banana, and bacon in a confection. But that would not be a flavor combination getting my attention. At least not at the moment.


This Cocoa Banana Bread has a kind of pound cake texture to it, although the crumb is a bit finer and the chocolate flavor is a bit more intense. But unlike a pound cake, there is an incredible crunchy, sugary, deeply flavored roasted banana top to this banana bread.


As I shared earlier, I really didn't make any substantive changes to this recipe. It was already pretty amazing. However, had I thought about it giving it a slight twist, I should have poured some Pecan Flavored Whiskey over the top of the bread as soon as it came out of the oven. But I didn't. And I can't even take credit for this idea. Because this absolutely brilliant idea came from one of the friends I had recently gone to a wine and spirits tasting with. A friend who also happens to someone who is a self-admitted non-cook and non-baker. But no one ever said one had to cook and/or bake to appreciate great desserts or great food. One just needs to possess good taste. With or without any Pecan Flavored Whiskey, and definitely without any bacon, make this Cocoa Banana Bread for all your friends having really good taste as it will send them to a place of euphoria they will not ever forget. 

Recipe
Cocoa Banana Bread (Barely a change to Alison Roman's recipe for Cocoa Banana Bread as shared in her cookbook "Dining In: Highly Cookable Recipes")

Ingredients
1/2 cup Demerara sugar, divided
1 1/2 cups (195g) all-purpose flour
1/2 cup unsweetened cocoa powder
1 teaspoon baking soda
1 teaspoon kosher salt
6 Tablespoons unsalted butter, room temperature
1/3 cup (67g) granulated sugar 
1/4 cup light brown sugar, firmly packed
1 teaspoon vanilla
1 large egg, room temperature
1/2 cup (4 ounces) mascarpone, room temperature (Note: Could also use full-fat sour cream or full-fat yogurt)
5 extremely ripe bananas, divided (4 coarsely mashed and 1 sliced lengthwise) - See Notes

Directions
1. Preheat oven to 375 degrees (F). Line a 9"x4" (or 8.5"x4.5") baking pan with parchment paper. Spray with non-stick spray and sprinkle 1/4 cup of the demerara sugar on the bottom and sides of the pan. Shake out any excess sugar. Set prepared pan aside.
2. In a medium bowl, whisk together the flour, cocoa, baking soda, and salt. Set aside.
3. In the bowl of standing mixer fitted with a paddle attachment, beat the butter, granulated sugar, brown sugar, and vanilla on high speed until light and fluffy (approximately 4-5 minutes).
4. Add the egg and beat until it returns to the previous light and fluffy texture (approximately 3-4 minutes). Note: Initially the mixture will look slightly curdled, but it's texture will change after beating.
5. With mixer on low, add in the dry ingredients. Beat just to blend.
6. Add in mascarpone cheese and beat just until blended. Batter will be very thick.
7. Add in mashed bananas, beat until blended in (approximately 1-2 minutes).
8. Scrape batter into the prepared pan. Smooth the top.
9. Place the two banana halves, cut side facing up, on top of batter. Sprinkle with remaining 1/4 cup demerara sugar.
10. Bake until the bread is baked through in the center (approximately 90-100 minutes). Note: My baking time was closer to 100 minutes.
11. Transfer baking pan to cooling rack. Allow bread to cool completely before removing from pan and slicing.

Notes: (1) The four bananas used in the bread weighed approximately 1 pound 6 ounces (with their skins on). Recommend for medium sized ripe bananas for the bread batter and one smaller ripe banana for slicing on the top. (2) When cutting the one banana lengthwise, you will have more success keeping the slices whole if you cut it with the skin on. Carefully peel away the skin, trying not to break the halves (like I did). (3) For a subtle boozy flavor to the Cocoa Banana Bread, poke some holes in the top of the bread as soon as it comes out of the oven. Pour 1-2 Tablespoons of Pecan Flavored Whiskey over the top and allow it soak in.