"We are not so much what we eat, but we remember what we have eaten." ("A Short History of Truth", Julian Baggini) Over a post run breakfast the other day, there was a rather funny, interesting conversation about how foods from our childhood turned into ones banned in our adulthood. The reasons for this varied from eating certain foods served way 'too many' times to being unable to get past remembering the not so tasty versions gracing the dinner table to having the meal bait and switch (breakfast for dinner) done to us with regularity. While redundancy can sometimes be endearing, it seemed it was having the completely opposite effect. Apparently when food is involved redundancy is a bad thing. As I listened to everyone describe the limited or expansive repertoire of meals made by parents and/or grandparents, I couldn't help but giggle at the uncanniness of how so many of us, no matter our ages, could remember exactly what meals we each had for dinner growing up. Good and/or bad food left a really powerful, potent imprint on all of our memories. Those early taste and smell experiences not only served to shape everyone's hilariously told childhood narratives, they significantly and permanently influenced our unique present day food preferences.
Although my father was the one who loved to bake and did almost all of the baking, I don't ever remember having dessert after dinner. There were no 'eat your potatoes or finish your plate if you want dessert' threats spoken at our dinner table. At least there weren't any in my 'food' memories. So I wonder when it was we were eating all those cookies, cakes, and ice cream! This absence of a dessert course memory may be responsible for the way I think about them today. In my world any dinner gathering of family and friends absolutely must have a dessert course, preferably a homemade one. Because a dinner without a dessert seems unfinished, incomplete. Dessert here is never an after thought. It's usually one of the first thoughts when I am planning a menu.
This isn't the first time I shared a Peach Cobbler recipe with you. But unlike my two guacamole recipes, the one really good one and the really great one, I love both this original Peach Cobbler recipe and what I am now calling the Peach Cobbler, Version 2 one. If you asked me which cobbler was better, I couldn't tell you. I love them both for different reasons. At some point in the months ahead when peaches are in abundance, you should make both versions. Maybe you, like me, will be unable to choose between them or choose a definite favorite.
However, I will tell you that you might not consider either of these recipes to be cobblers in the traditional "biscuit topped" sense. In the untraditional, but still cobbler eligible sense, one has a quasi-cookie dough top and the other has an unusual quasi-cake batter top. There are several other differences between these two cobblers. One is made with peeled peaches, the other with unpeeled ones; one uses a variety of spices, the other only cinnamon; and one is sweetened with honey, brown sugar, and granulated sugar, the other only with granulated sugar.
When I saw a table at the grocery store piled high with the most gorgeous peaches I couldn't resist buying them. For a brief moment I thought the month of May was shortened, the months June and July completely skipped over, and August had arrived as these were the kind of peaches we usually have to wait a year to find. These were definitely peach cobbler worthy peaches.
The idea of having to peel four to four and half pound of peaches could be considered a peach cobbler making deal breaker. But this recipe doesn't require you to peel them. In other words, it takes the 'it's too much messy work' excuse off the table. Since I like my cobblers made with peach slices versus chunks, I generally cut each peach half into four or five (half-inch) slices.
The recipe for this Peach Cobbler didn't call for the use of any sweeteners, spices, or thickeners mixed in with the sliced peaches. Just the zest and juice from a large lemon. But I decided to add them in anyway. At first I thought about mixing in cinnamon, ginger, and allspice with the sliced peaches, but then decided I would only use cinnamon as well as a teaspoon of vanilla. I prefer the juices in peach layer of cobblers to have a thicker consistency than one normally achieved by letting a fruit only cobbler rest for 30 minutes before serving, I added in cornstarch and a small amount (one-quarter cup) of sugar.
The topping for this Peach Cobbler is one simply made with flour, butter, sugar, baking powder, kosher salt, and milk. Beaten longer than most cake batter recipes, this thick, fluffy batter spreads beautifully over the layer of lightly sweetened, spiced, and thickener added peaches.
Before going into a preheated 350 degree (F) oven, the batter layer is sprinkled with some granulated sugar (I used 1/3 versus the recommended 1/2 cup) and then drizzled with a half-cup of hot water. Yes, hot water! The technique of topping the cobbler with sugar and hot water causes the batter to develop a shiny, crisp, cracked lid. The result is a cobbler having another textural component. Note: Using a 9"x13" pan or baking dish gives this Peach Cobbler the perfect luscious lightly spiced, slightly lemony peach filling to crunchy, just the right amount of sweetness cake like top ratio.
If you baking pan isn't deep, place it on a baking sheet to catch any of the juices bubbling up and spilling over. The cobbler bakes for 70-80 minutes in a preheated 350 degree (F) oven. My baking time was 75 minutes.
After removing the peach cobbler from the oven, place on a cooling rack and let it rest for 30 minutes before serving. This resting time allows the juices to thicken up a bit. Your patience will be rewarded as this Peach Cobbler has all of the textural elements of one having a swoonworthy status.
Just as I find it hard not to pair peaches and cinnamon together, I find it even more challenging to not serve a warm Peach Cobbler with a couple of scoops of vanilla ice cream. If you don't adhere to the cobbler-ice cream rule, serve it with some heavy cream, some creme fraiche or my version of creme anglaise (otherwise known as melted vanilla ice cream). In full disclosure my version of creme anglaise isn't really mine, it's Ina Garten's version.
What is better than having an incredibly delicious recipe for Peach Cobbler? Having two of them! Although the common ingredient between the two recipes is the peaches, they each offer two completely different kinds of cobbler. The taste, texture, simplicity, unusual baking technique of Peach Cobbler, Version 2 make it irresistible. I would put a cobbler, especially this one, in both the comfort and celebratory food dessert categories.
As soon as your market has ripe peaches available make a cobbler! For dessert of course! I am hoping ripe peaches arrive earlier than usual this year because I really don't want to wait two months to make another Peach Cobbler.
Peach Cobbler, Version 2 (several adaptations to Renee Erickson's Peach Cobbler recipe as shared in her cookbook "A Boat, A Whale, and A Walrus: Menus and Stories"
Serves 8 to 10
Ingredients
10 large ripe peaches, approximately 4 to 4 1/2 pounds, unpeeled, pitted, and cut into 1/2 wedges
Zest and juice of 1 large lemon
1 teaspoon vanilla
1 slightly rounded teaspoon cinnamon
2 Tablespoons cornstarch
1/2 cup (1 stick or 4 ounces) unsalted butter, room temperature
1 1/2 cups plus 1/3 cup granulated sugar, divided
1 1/2 cups (192 g) all-purpose flour
2 teaspoons baking powder
1 teaspoon kosher salt
3/4 cup whole milk
1/2 cup hot water
Ice cream, heavy cream, creme fraiche, or creme anglaise for serving
Directions
1. Preheat oven to 350 degrees (F).
2. Place peaches in 9"x13" or similar sized baking pan or gratin dish. Try arranging peaches into a roughly even layer(s).
3. Using a microplane or zest, zest the lemon and squeeze the lemon juice evenly over the top.
4. Pour the vanilla, sprinkle 1/4 cup of sugar, and evenly sift the cornstarch and cinnamon over the fruit.
5. In a the bowl of a standing mixer fitted with a paddle attachment, cream the butter the 1 1/4 cups of the granulated sugar on medium speed until it reaches a sandy texture (approximately 1 minute).
6. Add the flour, baking powder, and salt. Beat again for another 30 seconds or or until all of the flour has been incorporated and the mixture looks evenly crumbly.
7. With the mixer on low speed, slowly add the milk. Increase the speed to medium and beat until light and fluffy (approximately 2 minutes).
8. Place 6 or 7 large scoops of the batter on top of the peaches. Using an offset spatula, carefully spread the batter evenly over the fruit, making sure it's no more than 1/2" thick in any one place.
9. Sprinkle 1/3 cup of granulated sugar evenly over the top of the batter.
10. Heat 1/2 cup of water in the microwave for approximately 1 minute. Pour hot water evenly over the batter.
11. Bake the cobbler for 70 to 80 minutes, or until the top is browned and cracked. Use a toothpick to check for doneness of the cobbler topping.
12. Let the cobbler rest for 30 minutes to allow the filling juices to slightly firm up.
13. Serve warm with vanilla ice cream, heavy cream, creme fraiche, or creme anglaise.
Note: This Peach Cobbler is best enjoyed the same day it is baked, however, if leftovers are covered, it can still be enjoyed the second day. Would recommend reheating individual portions in the microwave before serving.
